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Sierra to Sagebrush:
Photo journal of a self contained bike tour
Flagstaff, AZ to Phoenix, AZ in March 2000
We rode to breakfast at the cafe.  The breakfast was as good as the dinner had been the night before.  There were a lot of locals and a few others who were obvious tourists cruising route 66. After  After breakfast, we went to the indoor phones at the truck stop next door.  Brian wanted to see if he could reach Tera, and I had to call the auto repair place back in Phoenix.  After a failed attempt at reaching the guy who is fixing my car, we pedaled off toward Prescott.



The road alignment on which we were travelling took us over Hell Canyon.  It was built in the 1950s.  Before this road, we would have been headed down and up into the steep canyon.  Because of the road, we barely noticed it.  Hell canyon was the site of many skirmishes in the late 1800s.  Nomadic warriors would hide out and ambush the settlers and cavalry.  I was pushing a bit harder than yesterday because I was afraid that we would get caught in the wind again.  I don't mind working hard to get up a hill, but I hate it when I have to work hard to travel on a flat stretch.  I wasn't going do that today!


There was a lot of pretty scenery along the road before Chino Valley, but not much else. We could see our target (the mountains) off in the distance.  It is always fun to watch them get closer and closer as the day goes on.  I also like knowing that the next day I will be beyond those mountains.   We had to stretch a lot because Brian's neck was a little stiff from riding in a more aero position than he is accostomed to.  My tandem is threadless, so the stem could not be raised for him.  Tandems are usually very comfortable for the captain, and the stoker gets beat up on the back..... in this case, both of us were trading a bit of comfort for the team.  We moved more effeciently and together, but Brian had some neck discomfort, and I had a whole set of issues.  I have 12 cm less space in the cockpit of the tandem than I do on my favorite road bikes.  I cannot reposition myself on my saddle because I do not have room to slide forward or back.  I also can't use many hand positions on a tandem because I cannot lean as far forward without interfering with the captain's leg movement, or  getting way too personal with his rear end....

  The only spot on the map between Ash Fork and Chino Valley was Pauden.  It was little more than a spot.  You can see almost all the buildings in Pauden in this photo.  There was also a residence across the road that had a sign out on the road advertising antiques for sale. I have heard that there was more of a town here before highway 89 was built 1/2 a mile away and bypassed the town. 

Arizona boasts some of the most colorful mini marts!  This lovely Pepto Bismol pink shade was visible from quite a distance.....   I guess this is all that there is of Del Rio Springs. All kidding aside, this was a great place to stop.  The shop has a large assortment of food and beverage, they have  a comfortable place to sit, and they were really nice.

This is the original spot on which Camp Clark (predating Fort Whipple) sat.   It was established in 1863 near where an expedition had discovered gold as a temporary capital and was named after Gen. John A. Clark.  The next May it was moved 18 miles to the south and came to be called Fort Whipple. 

  Chino Valley was named by the Mexicans in Whipple's surveying party in the 1850s.  They called it Chino for the long grass "de chine" that grew there.  I really didn’t start to relax until we were in Chino Valley. We stopped for some local cuisine in Chino valley (MacDonalds)  and then rode on through the dells and into Prescott. 
  There were plenty of restrooms available in Chino Valley. 
The mountains were getting closer and closer....  This was one of the last of the roadside venues as we headed out of Chino Valley.
I think the smile on Brian's face had to do with the possibility of DOWNHILL ahead!
My favorite part would have been riding from Chino Valley to the SR-60 interchange, but there wasn’t A single break in the rumble strip and Brian had chosen to ride on the traffic side because he didn’t know that there would always be at least 3 feet of lane on the other side. 
  I just liked this tree and the hills behind it.


The dells is an outcropping of rocks just north of Prescott along the highway.  It was a favorite place for war parties to wait for miners and freighters travelling in and out of Prescott.  There is supposed to be a lake hidden somewhere in the rocks.  I have never found it, but I haven't looked very hard either.
  Prescott was established in 1864.  That would be when the camp up at Del Rio Springs moved closer to the mining strikes and was renamed Fort Whipple.  Fort Whipple was pretty busy throughout the late 1800s defending the settlers from Yavapai and Apache raiding parties.  In 1871, the US Gov. closed Fort Whipple.  There was a huge massacre and public outcry that led to the reopening of the fort the next year.  It was closed and repoened a few times between 1880 and 1902, then remained open until 1922 when it was turned into a hopsital facility.  In the late 1800s, after the threat of Indian attack had passed, Prescott became the fort of chopce for ranking officers and their wives in AZ because it was more scenic, had a nicer climate, and more ameneties than any other part of the state. 
We locked the bike to a pay phone outside the restraunt across from the town square in Prescott.  My butt hurt, but it was a lot better than yesterday.  They seated us at a table just by the window so that we could watch our bike and we had a very nice meal.  I really wanted a beer, but I refrained.  I knew that we had a little bit more riding before we would get to our destination, and I didn’t want to have any problem pushing my half of the bike.


  We wandered around Prescott for a while.  This photo is facing Whisky Row.  The saloons along this street have been in operation for over a hundred years, and other than the addition of electricity and phones, only a few have been remodeled since that time.  A few of the wooden, glass and brass bars and back bars were brought by ship to San Francisco and then hauled out to Prescott.  The salespeople at the sporting goods store allowed us to walk the bike inside the store.  We left it there while we walked around.  We went to a few antique stores, but that got old pretty quick.


  The town square is around the courthouse.  The park area is well kept and is used regularly for community activities.  It is common to see dozens of people spread out on the lawns talking and relaxing on a weekend evening in the summer. They usually gather for square dancing or concerst on Saturday night. We wandered around the square for the last half hour before Paul arrived. 

We leaned the bike against one of the statues and walked along the timeline for a while.  The area behind the statue is where the square dancing is held on summer evenings.  The stairs are a nice place to sit. Paul rode up to us around 5:30 pm or so.
Paul led us to Prescott Valley via a route that would circumvent a very busy intersection he preferred to avoid.  We didn't really care about the traffic.  We had just arrived through that intersection. We followed him across the creek and up a hill, then headed East through a series of steep short hills on narrow roads.  It would have been delightful to fly down the steep hills and up the other sides, except we were on a 110 lb bike with a ridiculously long wheel base and a wobble in the rear rack.  Paul is a racer guy, and I don’t think he appreciated the difficulty that we had navigating his hilly route.  I know he understood that we would have difficulty when he led us through Fort Whipple.  He was right on that account, but not for the reasons that he had imagined.  Paul thought that it would be difficult navigating the very long bike through the pedestrian gates and sidewalks.  That wasn’t a problem.  Brian is a very skilled captain, and maneuvering through gates and sidewalks was not even a challlenge.  The real problem was the recycling bin that someone had placed in the middle of the sidewalk.  We had to get off and walk past that obstacle because the bike was wider than the space through which we needed to pass.  We came out of that twisty route just north of SR-69 in SR-89.  We backtracked the route that we had used earlier that day throuh the dells.


This time we chose to ride on the inside of the rumble strip.  It was a lot faster because we had a very nice tailwind.  Paul would slow down to wait for us, and Brian would slow down, unaware that Paul was waiting for us to catch up.  Paul always rides to go fast, and I think it was tough for him to travel at less than half his normal speed.  He would have been mildly annoyed at 15mph, 11 must have been almost intolerable!  I pushed Brian a little harder than I should have, but we arrived at Paul's house with a computer average of about 15mph.  I also noticed that Brian and I couldn’t wait to get to a shower and food after our ride.   Paul never eats out, but dragged him out for dinner anyway.  Brian and I bought dinner, then we returned to Paul’s house and collapsed.

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