Civic Performance Modifications

AEM Cold-Air Intake

The AEM Cold-Air intake is the first engine modification that I performed. It took a friend and I about 2 hours to perform. The most difficult part is removing the restrictive air resonator that Honda puts on. Do yourself a favor and remove the front bumper. If I had done this, we would have completed the installation of the air intake in about 1/2 the time. Also, be careful with the grommet for the mass air flow sensor, it has a tendency to fall into the intake itself if you use too much force. The results of the intake were slightly improved power above 4000 rpm and increased noise. The noise is a low, hollow growl that only becomes obtrusive upon application of full throttle in any gear.

 

S&S Header for 92-95 Non-VTEC Civic

S&S Headers is a company that makes headers for all the "Legends" racing cars. The header that I purchased was not for my specific application. The header is for a 92-95 Non-VTEC 1.6L Civic engine. The header is a 4 into 1 design that improved airflow dramatically. The result of the header install was dramatically increased power from 3000 rpm and above. Unfortunately I cheaped out, and I neglected to buy the optional ceramic coating. Now it's showing signs of rust at only 4 months. I'm happy with the header, especially for the price ($140). I may get a Kamikaze header in the future, after I hear about reliability.

 

Stillen Header for 96+ Civic EX

This is the second header that I have purchased. The original S&S header started to rust, so I decided I needed a ceramic coated header. The design is a 4 into 1 type. The results were similar to the S&S. The installation of a 4-1 header is very time-consuming. Also, the oxygen sensor now resides in a new location, just before the catalytic converter. Therefore, you must splice in 4 new wires (using supplied butt-splices and wiring, to allow for the relocation. The stock wiring to the oxygen sensor is simply too short. Doing this under a car supported by jack-stands is a little tight, but it can be done. Overall, it's a good product that generates a bit more power in the upper RPM range (4000+). Hopefully, the ceramic coating will prevent rusting and keep the underhood temperatures lower.

 

Custom Exhaust

This is definitely the way to go in terms of exhaust. There is quite a variety of aftermarket mufflers available, for much cheaper than the complete cat-back exhaust systems. The muffler I purchased was a Dynomax Super Turbo #17731 (2.25" in/out). The muffler has a lifetime warranty and is aluminized steel. It's available at Checker auto for only $22.95. This is attached to 2.25" piping (duh) from the catalyst back. I also had a resonator welded in the mid-pipe. The resonator is 16" long and has an inner diameter of 2.25". It removed the "tinny" and "rattling" sound that existed without it. I would recommend installing a resonated tip. Total cost was $175 installed w/ mid-pipe resonator, muffler, and resonated tip. The piping is all aluminized steel for longer life. The exhaust tip, which is all that most people see is 2.5" in diameter, resonated, and made of stainless steel. This exhaust system and the header definitely complement each other with increased power in the high RPM range without a significant loss of low-end torque.

 

Eibach Pro-Kit Springs

The first peformance modification that I made. The install was performed by a local import service shop. I highly recommend these springs. I paid about $200 for them. They lower the car by about 1.25", which is fine for me as improved cornering was my main goal. The springs definitely make cornering limits higher with a good compromise of ride and handling. Also, dive upon braking is markedly reduced, as is squat upon acceleration.

 

Neuspeed Strut-Tower Bar (Front)

This modification is extremely simple, it takes longer to get the wrench out of the toolbox than to do the install. The results of the installation were not dramatic. The initial turn-in is improved as the advertisements claim. However, as far as stiffening the chassis, it doesn't. It's simply too flexible in my opinion.

 

Wheels and Tires

These can be the most important performance improving modification for a naturally aspirated Civic. Unfortunately, I compromised on the tires. I purchased Nitto NT-450 all-season tires. The size on these tires are 205/50. Mounted on 6.5" wide Konig Cobra wheels with 35 mm offset, they just barely stick out from the fender, which is something that I don't desire. For the ultimate in performance, forego the safety of all-season tires. The limits on these types of tires are severely impaired compared to performance-oriented summer tires. The next purchase of tires I make will be summer tires. Perhaps Dunlop SP Sport 8000, or the new 9000. This is one area in the car that you don't want to compromise in. The whole purpose of your car is to move its tires, don't compromise here as they're the ONLY part of your car that keeps you connected to the road. Don't get me wrong, the Nitto NT-450's are great all-season tires that will probably last 40,000 miles with an aggressive tread design, but it's all show and no go in my opinion. The wheels that I purchased were 15" Konig Cobras. Wheels are just something to mount the tires on in my opinion, but the lower the unsprung weight, the better.

 

The Result

The end-result of the modifications that I made are definitely significant. The tires made the biggest difference in performance b/c the stock Dunlop tires were absolutely gutless. The engine modifications definitely make the car more amusing to drive, but don't improve HP by a huge amount. My net improvement is approximately 12 HP at the wheels, but the dyno will tell for sure. In summary, you can't improve the power of a Civic by much with simple bolt-on equipment (air intake, exhaust, and header), so spend your money on suspension modifications. You'll get the most performance bang-for-the-buck this way.

Pictures of My Civic

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Email: jrazzaq@rocketmail.com