Dahab, Sinai, Egypt

     I wrote the following two piece article while traveling last winter in Egypt. It appeared in the English language
newspaper "Al-Ahram Weekly" on April 10, 1997. I spent three months in Egypt, mostly along the Sinai coast on the
Gulf of Aqaba.
 
 

     Exotic fish, palm lined beaches, and a relaxed atmosphere attract visitors from all over the world to
     Dahab. Unfortunately, this beauty is mitigated by scenes of a less desirable nature.
 
 

          Sitting under palm trees on the Sinai shore, I drink a cup of tea and watch as the sky and the water change
     colors in the early morning light. The sun rises over the mountains of Saudi Arabia and casts light on the
     shimmering water of the Gulf of Aquaba. In front of me, Bedouins on camels stroll by on the beach. Another day
     begins in Dahab.
          The seaside village has a unique gathering of natural attractions, activities, and cultures. This diversity has
     brought increasing numbers of visitors as well as dreams of success to Dahab, a small resort with worldly
     ambitions. Part of Dahab's growing popularity is due to the wide variety of recreation available. Naturally, the
     easygoing atmosphere is very conducive to relaxing as well, and lounging on the beach under the date palms is a
     favorite way to spend time.
          The Red Sea is justly famous for it's underwater scenery, and few places can compete with its beautiful and
     easily accessible coral reef sites. Other-worldly scorpion fish, multi-colored corals, and iridescent wrasse dwell in
     the dark blue water only a few meters from the shore. All the diving or snorkeling is just a short swim from the
     beach. The reef is so remarkable that Anke Bierman from Holland remarked, "I am having such a nice time
     snorkeling, that I have trouble finding the motivation to dive." Still, diving is a big attraction, as it is all along the
     Red Sea coast.
          Another Dhabi draw is the almost non-stop wind. For wind surfers, the 260 windy days per year is
     paradise. In the lagoon, one can see swarms of colorful sails dart over the water. All the resorts cater to
     wind surfers, and a few shops rent and teach as well. In the summer, the wind is a cooling breeze that helps beat
     the heat. Fortunately, the wind doesn't interfere with the diving because the reefs are accessible by swimming, not
     by boat.
          Close by, in Nuweiba, people have the chance to swim with the famous dolphin who recently had a baby.
     Karen Bruynooge, a Dutch teacher in Dahab, recently visited the dolphins and described the baby as wary of
     people at first. "Then the mother gently nudged the baby closer to the swimmers, as if to tell it that humans are all
     right," she said
          Besides water diversions, visitors can also range into the Sinai mountains which cradle Dahab. Camel treks
     and jeep safaris are readily available. A camel ride with a Bedouin guide to an oasis is a gorgeous change from the
     ocean environment and the surrounding arid land. The buzz of Dahab is left behind, and the silence of the desert
     mountains asserts itself. The Bedouins cook meals on the trek, and some are well informed about the way of life
     and survival in the desert.
          Dahab is also relatively close to many different areas. Israel to the north and the Ras Mohammed National
     Park to the south are only a few hours away, and St. Catherine's Monastery and Mt. Sinai make a great day trip
     from Dahab. The sunrise from the top of the mountain that Moses climbed is inspiring. A jeep safari is a great way
     to get there, as well as to many other wonders including Bedouin oasis, mountain wadis (canyon), and the fantastic
     rock forms of the Colored Canyon.
          Hiking is also popular in a place where one minute you can be climbing in a mountain canyon and the next
     be walking on the beach looking for seashells. The night sky is especially impressive, and a hike or swim by the
     surreal light of a full moon is magical.
          Dahab consists of three distinct areas. Beginning in south by the lagoon is the recently built Dahab City.
     With many new construction projects, Dahab City accommodates resort hotels, government offices, and the bus
     station. A few kilometers north, along Dahab's bay, is laid back Masbat. Smaller hotels, camps (a very spartan
     motel), restaurants, and an Egyptian bazaar are located here. Merging into Masbat from the north is Assalah, the
     Bedouin village and residential area.
          Like a line of stones in the sand, the restaurants of Dahab lie along the beach in Masbat. Each is slightly
     different in shape, appearance, and ambiance, but the essence - the food - is all pretty much the same. Some
     stand out with good presentation or better-than-average cooking, but don't expect consistency. Still, the casual
     atmosphere with palm trees, carpets, and cushions makes dining a relaxing experience.
          By all accounts, the food is improving, and as more tourists flock to Dahab, the kitchens will only get better.
     The fresh fish is a good bet, and a special Dahab treat is the breakfast pancakes filled with fruit and covered with
     honey or chocolate. Sahlebs, a creamy, fruity, warm drink, are popular, and a sahleb tour of Dahab will uncover
     treats that invoke poetry and passion.
          The restaurants farther out of town, like Tatou or Lahbatita, have some of the best food. A few restaurants
     bring culinary diversity with Italian and African Sudanese food, and exploring off the beach yields up good
     Egyptian diners. The hotel restaurants are distinguished by the fact that they are cleaner than those in Masbat, and
     they offer buffets. Finally, many camps also have kitchens that lodgers can use.
          A variety of people are attracted to Dahab. "A cosmopolitan mix in such a small and casual place makes
     Dahab unique in the world," said Steve Herman, a resident writer.
          A large number of Egyptians visit Dahab during holidays such as the Eid of Ramadan. Israelis also visit in
     large numbers during the Jewish holidays. The resorts host many Germans and Italians who come to Dahab on
     special windsurfing or diving packages. Masbat, though, attracts the most diverse international crowd, and
     travelers from all over the globe come here.
          As an Egyptian resort town, Dahab is quite different from others such as Sharm El-Sheik and Hurghada. It
     has a beautiful, natural combination in the desert mountains, the palm tree shoreline, and the vibrant sea. Dahab
     also has a free and nonchalant style not found elsewhere in Egypt. The Bedouin community is a big influence in the
     flavor and attitude of Masbat.
          Bedouins are not unaffected by the growth of Dahab. Although, many have been shunted aside in the
     economic competition by Egyptians, they still retain their claim to much of the land and to the area's date palms.
     Assalah has become a permanent Bedouin village, and many have traded their nomadic ways for the chance to
     reside and to earn money in Dahab. "Their [the Bedouins] ability to assimilate while remaining distinctly Bedouin
     shows how strong their culture is," contends Hisham Kahlil, a diving guide and chief.
          Dahab has changed a lot over the years, but only recently has a spotlight of attention and money descended
     upon it. Bedouins have been coming to the burnished gold seashore for untold years, and during the seventies,
     Israeli soldiers would come for rest and relaxation. After Israel withdrew from the Sinai in 1982, Dahab became
     famous among backpackers on the international traveling circuit. With the rise of tourism in Egypt, it has now

     garnered the notice of would-be developers, the government, and vacationers from around the world.
 

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