BALL PYTHON INFO

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GENERAL INFO

Ball pythons (a.k.a. royal python) typically inhabit the grasslands and savannahs of West Africa.

They are generally docile creatures. They are the smallest of the pythons and therefore are a very common pet. They avg. 4-6ft. They are nocturnal, meaning that they are more active at night.

Most captive born ball pythons thrive in captivity, and have very few feeding related problems. However, many imported balls can be difficult pets when it comes to feeding.

So if this is going to be your first ball python, please make sure it's captive bred.

I do not recommend buying your first ball from just any pet store, they can be infested with mites, ticks, respriatory and skin infections, and feeding problems, rather use a reputable breeder. If you can't find a good breeder and must go to a pet store, be sure to ask lots of questions. If the store can't provide you with a feeding record, date of last shed, and plenty of information to get you started then go somewhere else. You will be glad you did. ,

HOUSING

A hatchling snake will need a standard 10 gallon aquarium, while any snake over two foot in length will need at least a 48x12x12" tank. You can get larger tanks as your tastes and bank accounts permit. These tanks may be store bought or custom made for your snake. Just whatever you get, you will definately need an escape proof lid!!! (Snakes are extremely good escape artists).

HEATING

Since all reptiles are cold blooded animals, you will need to provide an alternative heat source. This can be accomplished by means of a heating pad, heat strips, or a dome/light reflector. There are many styles of gadgets on the market for this purpose.

You will also need two thermometers, preferably one with a humidity level also.

The temperature on the basking side should be approx. 95 degrees and should be approx. 75 to 80 degrees on the cooler side. This will allow your snake to adjust his own body temperature. Whatever you do don't use a heat rock, snake can burn themselves!!!

LIGHTING

Here's an area for disagreement, some say you need it others disagree. I say why not, it's an excellent heat source and it makes it easier to see your snake. Since snakes are nocturnal it helps to have a black light at night for viewing purposes, without disrupting the natural day/night cycle.

SUBSTRATE

There are many types of substrate that you can use. You can use newspaper (good for newly aquired snakes as it makes it easier to spot mites and is easy to remove when soiled), wood shavings (do not use cedar this is poisonous), and astroturf (this looks real nice and is easy to clean).

WATER

You will need a water dish large enough for your snake to completely submerse himself in. This helps in the shedding process and the humidity level. Just about anything will do from a dog water dish that won't tip to a custom bowl (just remember whatever you buy, you have to clean).

HIDE BOX

Ball pythons love to hide. This is a natural part of their lifestyle. You will need to provide your snake with a hide box, this can be anything from an old shoe box, and upside down clay pot with a hole and filed edges, to a custom created masterpiece. The hide box will provide a sense of security for your snake, and the less stress your snake has, the happier the both of you will be.

FOOD

How you choose to feed your snake, is of course, your choice. Many people will argue the choice of live vs. pre-killed or frozen foods(thawed and pre heated of course). Like I said the choice is yours.

A new hatchling after his first shed will need pinkies or hopper mice for his first few meals, about two per week. As he grows so will his food. A snake 2 ft. and greater in length will need a large mouse or a small rat once a week.

Live mice can pose a danger to your snake if they are hungry or your snake is not interested. If you must feed live prey be extremely cautious and remove the mouse if not eaten with in ten minutes.

Frozen and pre-killed rodents are safer for your snake, as they provide no biting danger and frozen are usually free from any parasites of their own.

Some common feeding problems can be easly remidied. For example since snake are nocturnal try feeding at night. Make sure the temp. is regulated and there is a hide box. A cold or stressed snake won't eat.

Most snakes will go off feed prior to a shed and most wild-caught snakes will go off feed during the normal hibernation period.

If your snake does require to be force fed, don't do this unless you have been properly trained.

If your snake is not eating and you are worried that there is an underlying cause, call your vet.