Delving Into Denmark
June 1998
Which European country is expensive, boring and unspectacular? Denmark - or so I had been told by people who have never been there. It is so easy to reach by car, that I decided to find out the truth. The Denmark I discovered is a splendid country for a relaxing driving holiday, it has some beautiful sights and it is no more expensive than England if you cut a few corners.
Denmark is a compact, tidy and scenic country that is connected to continental Europe via Germany, but also includes 400 islands of various sizes. Everyone knows about the Viking heritage, but nowadays Denmark is seen as one of the world's more civilised societies, with a comprehensive social welfare system. This explains why the Danes appear so friendly and smile so much; they all have perfect teeth! English is spoken by the majority of people.
You can reach Denmark on an twenty-hour ferry from Harwich to Esbjerg, or in one long day of driving overland. In late June, taking the fast Harwich to Hook of Holland catamaran crossing, we drove above the sunken fields of Holland, along the rapid German autobahns and crossed into the Jutland Peninsula, where the beautiful arable scenery was full of Jutland ponies grazing in meadows carpeted with wild flowers.
Mogel Tonder, just north of the border, is a stunning little hamlet with a cobbled main street, period brick houses covered in creeping roses and a magical church with one of the most lavish interiors in the country. A little further north lies Ribe, the country's oldest town, full of character and history.
Legoland, at Billund, is unmissable as one of Denmark's most famous tourist attractions. You can enter for free after 6.30pm, when the children's rides have shut down, and enjoy a stroll around model villages built entirely from Lego bricks - about 45 million of them. It was certainly different; even our hostel accommodation appeared to be made from Lego.
The cheapest way to stay in Denmark is by using the numerous hostels. Costing on average £10 a night per person, everyone (including the Danes), regardless of age, uses them. As you might expect from their Scandinavian reputation, they are very clean and comfortable. Private rooms are available for families and couples. Excellent all-you-can-eat continental breakfasts at the hostels cost £4 and really do set you up for the day. Meals in Denmark are certainly expensive, and it would be worth bringing favourite foodstuffs with you. Petrol, however, is surprisingly cheaper than our own.
You are never far from the coastline in Denmark and it is possible to tour the country in a loop through the major islands. Crossing onto the island of Funen via a bridge, you will find the pleasant city of Odense which sells itself as the home of Hans Christian Andersen. There are various museums dedicated to him. Further south, Egeskov Slot, a red brick Renaissance castle complete with moat and drawbridge, is a popular attraction. After crossing onto the island of Tasinge, where the narrow road passes through the bright yellow gatehouses of Valdemars Slot, we drove onto the island of Langeland and visited the salmon- coloured Tranekar Slot. Denmark is full of these 'Slots' which are really former stately homes rather than castles, with beautiful grounds. Each has an individual character and they seem to get better as you move around the country.
Away from the motorways which link the major cities, the roads were the emptiest I have ever seen in a European country. They wind quietly past thatched houses and through small farming villages. Speed cameras do not exist and we only saw one police car all week.
To reach the island of Lolland, further west, we had to catch a car ferry. From the boat we could see forests of wind turbines on every coastline. These towering white structures, turning slowly, stand majestically in long lines. They seem to be a most appropriate symbol for this country; clean air producing clean energy.
Passing through the island of Falster, which was a continuation of unhurried agricultural areas, the island of Mons contains the Danish version of our white cliffs of Dover. Mons Klint are the 130-metre-high chalk cliffs that rise steeply from an azure sea, a stark contrast to the previous greenery. From the top of these cliffs, 400 wooden steps lead down through the woods to a beach in the most spectacular setting. Mons itself is a beautiful little island with small fishing villages.
Zealand, next to Mons, is the largest island and Copenhagen is the main attraction. This compact capital city is simply a delight to walk around. Instead of tall buildings, there are acres of six-storey period houses. Parks, fountains and historical buildings abound in the centre, and of course the Little Mermaid is still perched on her rock. Much of the city is pedesrianised and you can even use the free bicycle service to pedal around the sights. Since the city is set on a waterfront, the air is very fresh.
A 'Copenhagen Card' will give you reduced admission to all the sights including the National History Museum which contains a wealth of Viking treasures. My personal favourite was the seventeenth century Vor Frelsers Kirke where the last part of the lengthy ascent of the church tower was around the outside of the steeple. It was a strange feeling to climb the narrow stairs, but the view over the city was marvellous. However it would not be a good experience for those afraid of heights.
The island of Zealand has some more famous sights. In the north east is the coastal town of Helsingnor where the majestic Kronberg Slot looms over the sea. This is the infamous setting of Shakespeare's Hamlet and consequently attracts many tourists, but is a worthwhile visit. You can look out over the narrow Oresund channel and see Sweden, which will very soon be linked to Denmark by a bridge.
Heading west to Hillerod, you can visit a grand lakeside castle, Frederiksborg Slot, by far the best 'Slot' in the country. The restored sprawling castle has extravagant interiors, such as the delightful Coronation chapel and Knights' Hall, all included in a 70-room unescorted tour. It is the Danish equivalent of Versailles.
When retracing your steps back to the Jutland Peninsula you will have the opportunity to cross the recently opened and now officially longest suspension bridge in the world between Zealand and Funen known as the 'Great Belt'. The impressive main construction is joined at either end by miles of lengthy bridges. The entire structure makes the Humber bridge look small, as does the toll at £50 for a car! A record breaker in more ways than one.
Don't be put off, though. While Denmark is certainly renowned as the most expensive and ignored European nation tourist wise, you will discover beautiful low-lying arable and maritime landscapes to experience and also enjoy the excellent Danish hospitality. There are no great distances to cover, traffic congestion is non-existent, and your credit card may even have an unexpected holiday.
Fact File:
Getting There: Esbjerg Ferry: Scandinavian Seaways (0990 333000) operate all year round 20 hour ferry crossings from Harwich to Esbjerg. Prices vary according to season and cabin preferences. Hook of Holland Ferry: Stena Line (0990 707070) run the Harwich-Hook of Holland Catamaran, crossing the North Sea in 4 ½ hours. Seasonal prices vary.
Accommodation: Hotel/Bed & Breakfast prices start at £30 per person. To cut costs, it would be worth investing in an International Youth Hostel card to allow you to stay at hostels. This is available for £10 (usable worldwide) from the Youth Hostel Association, Trevelyan House, 8 St Stephen's Hill, St Albans, Herts AL1 2DY (01727 845047). The Danish hostels are very popular and get booked up in peak periods. If you know your route, reserve rooms. Alternatively, you can call ahead to hostels to secure a place while you are travelling. Everyone speaks English.
Special Offers: Occasionally tour operators offer a return Esbjerg ferry crossing with six nights accommodation where you are given a choice of hotels around the country to book a room as part of the price. The last one I saw cost about £400 for two people which included the crossing with your car and hotels. The 'Copenhagen Card' is available from many places in Denmark and includes sights outside the Capital.
The Danish Tourist Board at 55 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9SY (0171 259 5958) will provide you with everything you need to know and many colourful brochures.
If you are taking your own car, get an insurance "Green card" and don't forget your passport. An International Driving License is probably not necessary.
