Christies Auction--
written Wednesday, 21-Jun-2000
Message:
DRESSES – from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales
 
 

On 5 June 1997 I went to Christies, London, to view the pre auction exhibition of Princess Diana’s dresses – called simply ‘Dresses’. Entry was by catalogue only and after queuing for an hour outside in the heat, it was with delight that we were allowed entry to the exhibition room at the top of a flight of grand stairs. Everyone attending had the inside page of their catalogue carefully embossed with the word ‘DRESSES’, so if you see a catalogue so marked you know it was used to gain entry to the preview. Then it was on into the hexagonal shaped room in which all the dresses were displayed – purple blue walls provided a contrasting background against which the dresses were displayed in groups of 2 or 3 and slightly colour co-ordinated. There was no glass or ropes to make viewers keep a distance – sadly no photographs were allowed.

Where to start?! As you entered the room first it was a section of the pale blue/grey dresses – all those familiar pictures of Diana came to mind in this dress and that. The oldest dress for sale was Lot 23, by Emanuel, which Diana first wore as Lady Diana Spencer in early 1981 to a State Banquet for one of the Saudi Kings at Claridges. Viewers could spend as much time as they liked going round the dresses and no one was hurried along. For some reason I always had a liking for Lot 49 because it is so unusual in its design and Diana was not photographed in it that often – what struck me with this dress and most of the others was just how tiny the waist line was, they were all really tiny.

I finally came to what for me was THE dress of the show, and that of Diana - Lot 80 the cream Victor Edelstein strapless dress with bolero jacket – it is a work of art with such intricate beading and the sumptuous duchesse satin fabric glistened with gold that is shot through the weave – something that just does not photograph or show up on TV. This dress was bought by the owners of the US Romance Classics TV Channel along with Lots 6 and 39 – my recollection of these two lots were that Lot 6 had a pulled thread in the fabric – Diana must have caught a ring on the fine fabric and the diamante beading on Lot 11 twinkled with colours of the rainbow and again you have to see it in the flesh to appreciate it. I know that the TV Channel exhibited the three dresses around 1998 (definitely in New York) but I have not heard or seen if they have been exhibited again more recently – does anyone know?

I enjoyed seeing my other favourites - Lot 26, another Emanuel – it is just such a ‘princess’ dress and had lovely beading – very pretty. Lot 4, bought by Paris Match, and Lot 75 because they are chic and I love velvet.

Some dresses were ‘new’ to visitors as Diana had never been seen wearing them in public – there were probably about 10 such dresses included in the sale.
 

Seeing haute couture up close for the first is an experience in itself (!) – the dresses are largely hand made so do not look quite so ‘sharp’ as off the peg wear – it is not a criticism at all, just an observation, and if you see the dresses you’ll know what I mean. Also, the dresses have in-built under garments in them – to make sure they stay up – but it was not possible to see the construction which, from a sewer’s point of view, was a pity. Talking of construction it was interesting to see how some of the dresses were put together – for example Lot 25 has such tightly ruched velvet sleeves that the top sleeve seams from half way up above the elbow to the neck line had zippers to allow Diana to get her arms in! The zippers were very well concealed but the zip pulls were the give-away at the neck line, despite being coloured the same as the fabric.

It was funny, but seeing Diana’s dresses up close humanised her – the little things like the pulled thread of Lot 6, clear plastic press studs on the inside cuffs of Lot 50 (yes plastic – I expected gold plate!), the child’s finger prints in the velvet pile on Lot 15 (presumably from little princes who wanted their mother to stay home!), loose threads on Lot 20 – bugle beads always are difficult to keep on dresses, even Lot 80 has loose stones (see the close up shot on the back cover of the Christies catalogue), plain black hook and eye fastenings on the jacket of Lot 63, and one or two missing sequins on the cuffs of Lot 50 but there was not one on the floor that I could have picked up and kept as a souvenir!!.

Embroidery/beading highlights were Lots 80, 52 19 and 63 and I hope Lot 78 ‘Elvis’ (now owned by Franklin Mint) was not too uncomfortable to sit in with all those beads!! My only recollection of the ‘Travolta’ dress was how carefully it had been ‘mounted’ on the dummy which had to have clear plastic supports coming off the shoulders to hold the tiny cap shoulders of the dress in the correct position – and the velvet was a lovely dark ink blue. The fabrics of all the dresses were probably the biggest surprise in themselves as the textures do not photograph – so Lot 2 for example has a rose jaquard in the fabric so you only see it if you move and the light catches it. Lot 66 – it always looked like crepe silk but it is actually velvet.
 

Diana’s penchant for recycling her dresses was evident in Lots 52, 76 and poor Lot 18 which looks set to get the chop again according to this Message Board (shock horror – how dare they?!).

Seeing 79 dresses in one day is really too many to absorb in one go so I feel a lot of the detail I saw I have forgotten – my tip to counter this is that it may be worth taking a small notepad to such an exhibition so you can write down what you saw where/when/how. Christies must have pictures of the full displays in both London and New York for their own archive - it would be great if a virtual exhibition could be created on the website to recreate the two exhibitions! I suppose that is a bit ambitious?

On leaving the exhibition – reluctantly – it was possible to visit the Christies catalogue shop and there you were able to buy a nice blue ‘Dresses’ bag with silver-grey cord handles in which you could keep your catalogue if you wished and you could look at and buy all the other fabulous auction catalogues they have. Christies is a very nice place to visit in any event if you are in London.

The ‘Dresses’ exhibition was an experience I will never forget. If you have never seen any of the dresses do go if you get the chance as it is now one of the few opportunities to get close to the enigma that was Diana.

HELEN
 
 
 
 
 

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1998 A Tribute in Dress--

On 29 May 1998 I attended the Tribute in Dress event at Oswestry, Shropshire, UK. The Tribute was the brain child of Shropshire woman Susan Martin and Jimmy Choo the shoe maker to the late Princess. The two had made an off the cuff comment about a tribute in dress and afterwards this set Susan Martin thinking and, with the help of some very influential people who got her the right introductions, Susan Martin was able to bring together this remarkable event – for one night only – in Europe’s (or the World’s) largest big top tent. Guest of honour were some of Diana’s designers and her butler Paul Burrell. There were only 2000 tickets for the Diana dress exhibition and fashion show and I was lucky enough to get 2. There was also an after show Charity Dinner Dance and this included an auction of various items – alas I did not attend this! Beneficiaries of the Show were two charities – the Diana Princess of Wales Memorial Fund and a local hospital.

As you entered the exhibition it was like a walk-way on either side of which were Diana’s dresses. The room was completely black and lit by lines of tiny lights in the ceiling drapes, which made it look like a star lit night. Each dress was carefully lit and were either some that were auctioned, some borrowed from Diana’s Estate or some replicas. One or two dress were displayed on turntables which was good. With the help of the exhibition guide book and my trusty notepad, I will do my best to describe the dresses present in order:-

We’ll take a ‘U’ shaped tour then:-
Going down the right hand side of the exhibition (exhibitor in brackets):
1. Diana’s pale blue silk satin Jimmy Choo shoes worn to Swan Lake 3 June 97.(Estate)
2. The Jacques Azagury ice blue ‘Swan Lake’ cocktail dress with bows on the straps and all over bugle beads worn to the ballet in London on 3 June 97.(Estate) (On show at Althorp 98/99)
3. In a glass case, the South Sea Pearl and Diamond necklace (and earrings?) by Garrard – the necklace which Diana wore to Swan Lake 3 June 97.(Garrard)
4. From Catherine Walker’s ‘SS 97 Collection’ Diana’s Taroni silk crepe pale blue cocktail dress with ‘rose’ guipure embroidery worn to London Christies Auction Preview 2 June 97 – an absolutely stunning dress (Estate)
5. Lot 51 (possible replica? or else new owner unknown)
6. Lot 66 (possible replica or else Maureen Rorech)
7. Lot 44 (Cover Shots International) (On show at Althorp 1998)
8. Black chantilly lace evening gown by Jacques Azagury worn to the Tate on Diana’s 36th, and final, birthday 1997 – this dress was a present from Jacques Azagury to Diana. (Estate) (On show at Althorp 98/99)
9. Red silk georgette Jacques Azagury 2 piece tunic cocktail dress with bugle beading all over worn in Venice June 1995 (Estate)
10. Red silk georgette Jacques Azagury evening gown, with bugle beaded bodice, and sash worn to the Red Cross Ball, Washington 18 June 1997 (Estate) (On show at Althorp 98/99)
11. Red and pink hat worn to Dubai March 1989 (Estate)
12. The last pair of shoes ever made for Diana by Jimmy Choo which he was supposed to deliver to her the day after she returned to London from her Paris trip, but never did. V cut flat pump in champagne grossgrain fabric. (Jimmy Choo)

Across the back of the room then to the exact replica Royal Wedding Dress made for Madame Tussauds London, by Emanuel. (Mme Tussauds) (Original is on show at Althorp all years)

Then up the left hand side

13. Dior black ‘quilted’leather hand bag (purse) with gold ‘D I O R’ fobs like the one given to Diana by Madame Chirac -wife of the French President of the time. The bag on show was later auctioned on the evening (Dior)
14. Glass case containing an exact replica (emergency) pair of the Royal Wedding slippers made by Clive Shilton – what works or art! (Clive Shilton) (Originals on show at Althorp all years)
15. Cream hat with roses sitting on the brim by Philip Sommerville. (Estate?)
16. Blue boucle hat worn by Diana to Prince William’s confirmation at Windsor 9 March 1997 (Estate?) (Original on show at Althorp 98/99)
17. Pink Versace short sleeved jacket and skirt suit – replica (Diana’s has different buttons and was on show at Althorp 98/99) Diana wore hers to Argentina in 1995 and Royal Regiment, Kent, UK.(Versace?)
18. Pale blue boucle Chanel 2 piece suit (terribly bad hem line that showed!) worn to Prince William’s confirmation at Windsor 9 March 1997and British Lung Foundation where Diana received a bouquet of the new white rose named after her ‘Princess of Wales’ and sold in aid of the BLF – replica or Diana’s? (Original on show at Althorp 98/99&00)
19. Grey Prince of Wales check 2 piece trouser suit by Dior – must have been replica as it had Galliano’s trademark band of wonky weave in the left arm – Diana’s did not and hers is on show at Althorp (98/99) minus wonky weave! also Diana’s trousers do not have the fringed seams down the outside of the trousers. Diana wore hers in London 22 April 97.(Dior)
20. From Catherine Walker’s ‘Russian Collection SS ‘97’ cream silk floral beaded cocktail dress worn by Diana to New York Christies Auction Preview 23 June 97. (Estate)
21. Black silk georgette and lace bodice Jacques Azagury evening gown worn UK September 1995 and to the US where Diana received humanitarian award –sat next to Henry Kissinger December 1995.(Estate)
22. Lot 7 (replica or Maureen Rorech)
23. Lot 20 (You Magazine Prize Winner)
24. Lot 30 (Fashion Café)
25. White lace beaded evening gown by Catherine Walker worn to USA breast cancer fund raiser, Washington DC, September 1996.(Estate)

One dress that was meant to be on show did not turn up or else it was kept back for the dinner dance attendees only to view – this was supposed to be a jet beaded Jacques Azagury dress – was on show at Althorp 98/99 – worn to a party for the now late Sir James Goldmsith.

The fashion show that followed featured clothes by 12 designers/fashion houses:- Gianni Versace, Jacques Azagury (shoes by his brother Joseph Azagury), Chanel, Roland Klein, Philip Somerville (hats with special occasion outfits by Catherine Walker), Zandra Rhodes (shoes by Jimmy Choo Couture), Caroline Charles, Bellville Sassoon, Bruce Oldfield, Catherine Walker, Tomasz Starzewski and Christian Dior. The show ended with the Chicken Shed Theatre Company children singing several songs, including their tribute song to Diana. Diana was Patron of the Chicken Shed Theatre.

We could see Elizabeth Emanuel, Jimmy Choo, Jacques Azagury and David Sassoon (the latter two who we literally bumped into) and Paul Burrell. Maureen Rorech donated one of her signed Christies catalogues to the event for the charity raffle.

There was not a huge amount of publicity about the show but I think it raised £100,000 for charity. A small article about the show was featured in ‘OK!’ magazine June 1998. I certainly enjoyed the event and as photographs were allowed, I have a few treasured pictures (though I ran out of film - typical!). It still niggles me that I don’t know for sure which dresses were replicas and which were the real thing – some were obviously replicas and I have tried to make educated guesses about the rest.

Hope this gives an idea of what the show was like!
 

Helen
 
 

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A visit to Althorp--
 
 

Althorp

The Estate is open from 1 July - Diana's birthday to 30 August annually. I visited Althorp in both 1998 and 1999 and may go again this year. Althorp is very tranquil and serene and just a very lovely experience. There is a gift shop from which to obtain souvenirs of your visit, though none feature Diana’s image. The exhibitions in the Stable Block are interesting, but the rooms are a little cramped if it is busy when you visit and you could not always get as close to the glass cases as you wanted – particularly so in the room which displays items from Diana’s childhood years.

In 1998 the first room contained items on the Spencer Women – including heirloom family jewels, but in 1999 this gave way to more childhood exhibits
There was a cine film of Diana as a child playing and various clothes, toys and school reports are displayed. The Royal Wedding Dress is shown in all its magnificence and in 1999 was joined by 2 bridesmaids dresses – one bought by the Earl and one on permanent loan from the owner. The Spencer Tiara, so often worn by Diana, tops the dummy on which the dress is displayed although it is a pity it is not shown nearer the glass lower down so you can see it close up – I have actually seen it at much closer quarters at the One Hundred Tiaras Exhibition at Wartskis Jewellers, London in March 1997 and it has some pretty big diamonds in it! The original wedding slippers are on show and they are very pretty. In glass cabinets around the walls are various pieces of memorabilia like a signed photo of Diana in the carriage on the way to the Cathedral on her wedding day and this is signed to her father, there is a dinner table plan for a dinner at Althorp which Prince Charles attended and a Christmas Card from ‘Charles – Your tap dancing partner’ and Diana’s diary is featured.

The room covering Diana’s charity work has a video on show and then some letters, including one of apology from Diana for not being on her best form at an engagement. A draft speech of Diana’s which has instructions of when to pause, and stress words down the side. Diana’s thick and somewhat battered passport is on show – though not the photo page and there is a small prayer book or Bible signed by Mother Teresa.

The saddest room is the room covering the funeral of Diana – the Earl’s speech in draft, the Elton John song score and such like. A section of the floor is roped off and covered with rose petals and is scented to recreate the flowers left outside Kensington Palace in the days after Diana’s death. Video footage of mourners plays in the background. This room is very quiet, apart from the background music, and does bring a lump to your throat.

Finally to celebrate her life, the last room is much more up beat with a display of Diana’s fabulous clothes. Earl Spencer seems to change 1 or 2 dresses each year, but by and large the display is unchanged. However, in 2000 there is a new publicly unseen dress – a purple Versace with spaghetti straps and figure hugging down to a ruffled fish tail at the bottom – Diana would have looked stunning in it I am sure!

I am conscious that I do not want to spoil the surprise for anyone visiting Althorp, so I will not post ALL the dress detail here – unless you do want me to.

Highlights – the pale blue boucle Chanel suit and hat (William’s confirmation), pink Versace short sleeved suit and hat (Argentina and the army), white Tomasz Starzewski worn to VJ Day 1995, and the bright red/orange suit with black collar worn to the Ballet rehearsals in 1997. Of the evening wear, in 1998 Lots 26 and 44 made ‘guest' appearances (Lot 44 was there in 1999 and again in 2000 – I think it is on permanent loan) then there were the Azagury dresses – black 1997 birthday dress, Swan Lake blue and Washington Red, the purple Versace worn to Chicago 96, the white Versace worn for the Testino photo shoot with silver diagonal beading to the one shoulder, How I wish Lot 80 could be bought back for the exhibition display a) because it was Diana’s most favourite dress and b) because it is a work of art and c) it is my favourite too!

Again a video runs above the display – at the end of the room you can see some of the many thousands of books of condolence in a glass cabinet and then it is out of the Stables on to the House.

Visitors proceed around the house in a one way sort of system and the best bit, I think, is where the staircase is, as you can see the portrait of Diana painted by Nelson Shanks in 1994 (and featured in the June 2000 calendar on this site), but you have to look up to see it – for 2000 it has been moved to a position in front of the stairs so you will see it from the foot of the stairs or as you ascend if you go upstairs to see the rooms which have been opened up to visitors for the first time this year (2000). If you go to Althorp make sure you look at the family photos on the piano in the staircase area – there are pictures of William and Harry as little boys on ponies and there is one of the Snowdon portraits of Diana with William taken when he was born in 1982.

After going round the house you take a short walk through the magnificent Althorp arboretum to the Oval Lake and there you can see Diana’s island resting place and the stone urn placed on the island in tribute to Diana. I believe that the black swans which live on the lake during the year are removed for the open season so as not to let them get used to humans, as they are fearsome defenders if not used to humans. You walk around the lake and come to the temple - visitors may leave flowers here and each day they are respectfully removed to the side of temple and laid out on the soil in a similar fashion to flowers that made a flower carpet on the island when Diana was buried.

Before leaving the Oval you can take in the two quotations displayed on the temple: one from Diana herself in June 1997 “Nothing brings me more happiness than trying to help the most vulnerable people in society. It is a goal and an essential part of my life…a kind of destiny. Whoever is in distress can call on me and I will come running wherever they are.” And then there is part of the Earl’s funeral speech about Diana – “We give thanks for the life of a woman I am so proud to call my sister…the unique, the complex, the extraordinary and irreplaceable Diana, whose beauty both internal and external will never be extinguished from our minds”
 

After you leave Althorp, it is possible to go to the village of Great Brington (they prefer you to walk) to see the church where other Spencers are buried/interred and also the distant relative of Diana who was also related to ‘the’ George Washington. The local vicar is American. The House and village are set in lovely countryside and there are nice rural views from the church.

If you want more details on Althorp and visiting go to the web site :- www.althorp.com – there is also a mail order online gift shop.
 
 
 
 
 

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