VIETNAMESE CUISINE

Overview Equipment Ingredients Techniques Recipes Reference links and bookstore

Vietnam has one of the most sophisticated and exciting cuisines in the world. Its historical influences and geographical gifts have created a cuisine rich in variety and vibrant in color and freshness. Vietnam's culinary heritage combines elements from three of the world's most celebrated cuisines: French, Chinese, and Indian. Paired with an acute sense of aesthetics and presentation, these influences give Vietnamese cooking a tremendous pallete of flavors, textures, and colors that is sure to offer something that everyone can appreciate.

Vietnam is a long, skinny country, which runs from north to south. Vietnamese people say their country resembles two baskets of rice on either end of a carrying pole. These two "baskets", regions known simply as the North and South, are both homes to extensive river deltas; the Red and Mekong rivers respectively. They are connected by a long, narrow, mountainous area known as the Center, or Hue, region. Each area contributes differently to Vietnam's culinary tradition.

In the North, colder climate limits the variety of spices and produce that is available, and as a result, the food is lighter, and less spicy-hot than in the Center and South regions- black pepper is the most popular spice used here. Stir-fries are more commonly found here, due to the shared border with China to the north. Many crab-centered dishes originate from the North, but other seafoods are not as common here.

The Center, where Hue, the ancient capital of the Vietnamese kings is located, features a highly decorative, very spicy cuisine, reflecting the pleasures of the country's royalty and the abundance of spices this region's mountainous terrain affords. Meals often consist of small portions of many dishes. Chili peppers and shimp sauce are frequently used.

The South is hot and humid, and its fertile earth makes it ideal for growing a huge variety of vegetables, fruits, and livestock. It is here where the French and Indian influences are most prominant. During colonial rule, the French introduced white potatoes, asparagus, tarragon, and shallots to this region, and they are still grown today. French bread is another surprise in this small area of Southeast asia. Southern Vietnam was once a common stop for Indian traders before their journey back west, and they left a taste for curried dishes behind. Seafood is a natural staple for people in the South, considering the vast areas of shoreline there.

Throughout the country, there are three important qualities to Vietnamese cuisine: freshness, creativity, and presentation.

Most of the meats and produce that are used in Vietnamese cooking are cooked only briefly, retaining much of their original texture and color. For this reason, products that are not fresh are simply not suitable for cooking this type of food.

The way that Vietnamese cuisine has developed has created recipes and menus that are free and flexible, making them ideal for an improvisational style of cooking and eating that gives every meal a spontanious feel. Many times, ingredients are easily substituted, giving the cook freedom to explore endless combinations in taste and texture. At most meals, the diner is given a variety of condiments, and is encouraged to mix and match elements- playing with flavors like a child using finger paints.

These condiments, and the fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs that accompany the meal are usually so colorful that the Vietnamese plate nearly garnishes itself. The Vietnamese cook's attention to detail, and delicate knife skills add to the vibrant appearance of the table. The visual appearance of a meal implies a promise- a promise that what's to come is an enjoyable, exiting experience. Food prepared by an experienced Vietnamese cook can fulfill that promise, and exceed all expectations

MORTAR AND PESTLE- when recipes call for garlic, chilies, and spices to be pounded and smashed in a mortar, the resulting flavor is intensly aromatic, because the essential oils are bein released directly into the food. The taste will always be superior to dishes in which the aromatics are only sliced or chopped. Using the weight of the pestle, pound hard to smash the ingredients. A mortar 6 inches in diameter should be large enough to handle most jobs- a larger one may be needed for some jobs, such as pounding meat or shrimp.

RICE COOKER- you can certainly get along without it, but an electric rice cooker adds several conveniences that should be considered. First- it will open a burner on your stove. When cooking a full meal, Vietnamese style, this is not to be undervalued. Second- there is no need to watch the pot. With other recipes requiring your undivided attention, this is a definite advantage. In fact, some machines have thermostats which make it possible to keep rice hot for up to 5 hours. Finally- a rice cooker can serve as a steamer. Simply insert a round rack in the insert and fill with water to just below the rack. Always use a rubber spatula or wooden spoon in your rice cooker, to protect its special coating.

WOK-used for sautéing, blanching, steaming, poaching, and deep frying, it's no wonder the wok is in every kitchen in Asia. The intense heat of commercial stoves are ideal for cast iron woks, but, unfortunately, home ranges are rarely powerful enough to make a cast iron wok very effective. A teflon-coated wok is probably more practical, since it requires less energy.

CHOPSTICKS- used for beating, turning, mixing, dipping, eating- not bad for slabs of bamboo, huh?

CHARCOAL STOVE-all cooking in Vietnam is done on an earthenware charcoal stove not entirely unlike our western barbecue grills. This imparts a special quality to foods that cannot be duplicated with a gas range and oven.

KNIVES-are important in any cuisine, but in Vietnam, where knife skills and delicate garnishes are as important as seasoning and cooking skills, your knife can be your best friend. Choose a chef's knife you are comfortable with, several inexpensive paring knives, and a heavy cleaver for cutting through poultry and fish bones.

FOOD PROCESSOR-dressings, pureéd sauces, pastes, and patés are all easier with a food processor on hand. In fact, many recipes would be time-prohibitive in our hectic lives without one.

BEAN SAUCE-made from fermented soy beans, water, and salt, this potent sauce is similar to the Japanese miso. It is a great way to brighten the flavor of stir-fries.

CHICKEN STOCK- the Vietnamese prefer a light stock, and may even use a stock made with only chicken and water.

COCONUT MILK-used mostly for desserts and puddings in Vietnam, not to create heavy curries as in Thai cooking, this is pulverized coconut meat mixed with water. Vietnamese cooks prefer the unsweetened variety.

FISH SAUCE- Known as nuoc mam, this is the ubiquitous element that ties Vietnamese recipies together. It is made by drying anchovies for a few hours in the sun, then layering them with salt in earthenware vats, where this concoction is allowed to ferment. The liquid is drained to ceramic urns where the flavor is allowed to develop for several months. The first pressing is prized, and used for dipping sauces - second is used for cooking. Never serve nuoc mam straight from the bottle-it must be diluted. It must never be added directly to a dry hot pan, as the smell will overpower not only the dish, but the entire meal and your guests as well.

5 SPICE POWDER- a Chinese mixture of spices that imparts a licorice/woodsy fragrance to a dish. I have seen different combinations of spices called "5 spice", but Webster's culinary dictionary lists: ground cloves, fennel, star anise, Szechuan peppercorns, and cinnamon. Orange peel is another common ingredient in some variations. 5 spice powder works great in marinades or it can be used with duck, stews, or vegetarian dishes. Must be used sparingly.   

GALANGA- also known as Thai ginger- this earthy, peppery cousin of ginger has a tough reddish skin and orange or whitish flesh. It is usually added at the last minute to get maximum flavor.

GINGER- used as universally in Vietnam as garlic in Italy, ginger works wonderfully to brighten a sauce or stir-fry. It can be used sliced in coins and removed before service- or finely grated and left in the dish.

GROUND CHILE PASTE- made from ground red chilies,garlic, and vinegar. Sold in small plastic jars.

HOISIN SAUCE- made from soybean, puree, sugar, and caramel sauce, this salty-sweet sauce is used in dipping sauces, marinades and stir fries. Hoisin sauce is thick reddish brown.

JASMINE RICE- the preferred rice of Southeast Asia. It is long grained and similar to Basmati in its floral aroma. The Vietnamese use this rule: add enough water to rise above the rice by 1 joint of your index finger. Westerners may have larger hands and a ratio of about 2-3 ratio rice to water is probably more consistant.

KAFIR LIME LEAVES-these jade green leaves impart a lemony aroma to curries, soups and stir fries. Each leaf resembles a figure 8. Kafir lime leaves can be bought frozen or dried. Dried leaves must be soaked in hot water before use.

LEMONGRASS- also known as citronella, this is actually a grass variety with an intense lemon flavor which Vietnamese use to A)infuse a soup, sauce, or curry or B)marinate meats and fish.The bottom part of the stem is the edible portion. When using the top portion, bruise it before cooking and discard it before serving.

MUNG BEAN SPROUTS- have subtle flavor and slightly crunchy. Mung bean starch is pressed into cellophane noodles.

MUSHROOMS- straw mushrooms, with their very delicate flavor, are the most commonly used fresh mushroom in Vietnam, while wood or tree ear mushrooms are the most commonly used dried ones. They have a crunchy texture and very little flavor.

OYSTER SAUCE- this thick brown sauce is made from ground oysters which were cooked in salted water and soy sauce, water, cornstarch, and caramel coloring. The sweet-salty flavor goes well with beef. Also good for sautéing veggies. Good for marinades because of its velvety texture.

RICE NOOODLES- are made from rice flour and come flat or round. Flat rice noodles are catagorized into 3 widths- thin medium large. Thin and medium noodles are used for soups, while the widest are reserved for stir fries.

RICE PAPER- is made from a batter of rice flour, water and salt. The paper is steamed, then dried on bamboo racks. Used as wrapper for a variety of spring rolls.

TAMARIND- a large brown pod fruit- but usually sold in syrupy liquid form or dried blocks. Acidy in taste- good for soups or fresh crab dishes.

BRAISING/SIMMERING-in Vietnam is usually done over charcoal. This is the technique used for making soups and stews. Long, slow cooking in a covered pan creates succulent, tender meats, and is a way to glean flavor from ingredients that need time to develop. Usually, the cook starts with hot oil, and adds crushed or chopped aromatics. The meat is then added and sautèed in the now-infused oil. Once the meat has been seared, the vegetables and cooking liquid are added. Depending on the recipe, cooking times will vary, but when the cooking liquid is very reduced, and only a small portion remains, you should be left with a very juicy, tender product and a sauce that is wonderful over rice noodles.

STIR-FRYING- is rapid cooking over intense heat. The hot oil used seals and coats ingredients, and what little liquid escapes serves to steam the food. It is important that your wok or pan is pre-heated- putting food in a cold wok takes more time and causes the food to overcook. Because stir-frying is such a fast process, it is essential to have all of your food and utensils organized before you start. Searching for chopsticks or a slotted spoon while your shallots are sizzling in oil will lead to great unhappiness. Generally, one starts with HOT PAN-HOT OIL (a cooking school mantra), then adds aromatics, meat, vegetables, and herbs and spices in order to make sure that everything comes together at its peak.

DEEP FRYING-to produce perfectly fried, crispy food, there ar several things to remember. Your oil (peanut is very popular in Vietnam) should be about 375 degrees. To help maintain this heat, it is advisable to allow foods to reach room temperature before adding them to the oil. Adding too much food to the oil at once can also lower your oil's temperature drastically. As your oil heats back up, your food will be getting greasy. This is why it is best to fry in small batches, keeping the oil hot as necessary. Safety is also a prime concern when deep frying. Use a very deep sauce pan or a flat bottomed wok when deep frying. You may wish to consider investing in a splatter screen, to avoid being burned by droplets of oil. Avoid using olive oil, as the fruitiness tends to overpower the flavor of your food.

STEAMING- is a common way to cook foods using moist heat, without removing nutrients and color the way that boiling does. The Chinese prefer bamboo steamers, but in Vietnam, cooks are partial to aluminum or stainless steel pots with metal inserts. Since steam is given off by almost all cooking foods, Vietnamese cooks tend to make efficient use of space and energy by steaming veggies over cooking rice, for example. When steaming, never rapidly boil the water. Rather, keep it at a steady simmer. Be sure to use caution when removing the lid off a steaming pot- steam burns can be very painful.

GRILLING-BARBECUEING-many Vietnamese recipes depend on the special flavor that grilling food over an open flame imparts. Vietnamese cooks believe so strongly in the superiority of this method, that they even simmer and stir-fry over this type of flame. It is important to note that wood or charcoal is used, not the compressed briquettes that we use in the West. A good comprimise is building a fire from briquettes, and then adding wood chips to the coals when they have turned white. After the flames from the wood chips have died down, you are ready to cook. Experiment with various types of wood chips to acheive the flavor you prefer.