My Studio
A unitard is the part of the costume that covers the most body area, and can be one of the most intimidating pieces. Spandex can be scary. Don't worry too much, though. With all the color patterns, the tail, and the warmers, you don't have to have the perfect gymnast type body to wear a unitard. It's typically less expensive (and easier to find) the right kind of unitard if you get it online. Here are some sources:
In the US:
All of the three above carry Bal Togs nylon/lycra long sleeved ankle length mock turtleneck unitards. New York Dancewear is the one I've used most, but I've also bought from ADA. River's Edge has a sizing chart (which is Bal Tog's sizing chart so of course it applies no matter where you buy it from), but if you're on the lower end of the size chart don't be afraid to get the next size down. Check them all out before deciding which site to order from.
Renaissance Dancewear - e-mail them and ask about getting one made with back seam only and shoulder closures (or save money by doing the shoulder closures yourself). Footed is standard (same price as footless), and you can get hand stirrups (nice to have), too. The fabric is better quality than Bal Togs, and getting it without side seams looks so great, just like the authentic ones. Worth the investment, but you might need to put it through some alterations before it fits just right; after that, though, your pattern is on file.
In Europe:
Dance Choice (English)
Chamaeleon-Style (German)
Coloring
When you get a white unitard and put it on, the first thing that will likely come to mind is, "Yipe! It's so see-through!". Colors will make this less so. If you're planning a Victoria costume, don't get scared yet.
I want to get something straight, first- DYE and PAINT are two different things. What I recommend using is Versatex Air Brush Ink, which is a thin paint. RIT is a dye, but it's not an acid dye, which is the kind needed to work on nylon (and wool). I have read that RIT is what the actual professional stage production CATS costumers use in the US, but I would still not recommend using it. I have tried it, and it will bleed all over the first time you wash it, turning the entire unitard a dim muddy color with faint marks. Bleach will get it out somewhat, but could be bad for the fabric (the chlorine in the bleach, really) and might just turn a muddy grey into a deepish coffee stain (which is what happened when I used it). True, you can get something to put in the wash to keep the dye from redepositing on the fabric, but then you'll just end up with an extremely washed-out unitard. It is the most messy and least permanent way to color a unitard. RIT is hard to control and will stain your skin. It's icky and tricky. I don't like it.
Versatex Air Brush Ink, however, works *very* well. It's thin and bold, doesn't over-stiffen the fabric, and isn't too terribly expensive. Although the name says "Air Brush", you don't need an air brush to apply it. If you have an airbrush and know how to use it, though, by all means do that. Sponging, spraying, brushing, and thin-tipped bottles are all good for painting with Versatex ABI. Let me just show you something, though...
My Studio
Sad and pathetic, isn't it? I'm stuck in the storage room. The yellow thing draped across the retro green chair is a Demeter unitard in the making (repainting it from Dance Blast when I didn't have any fancy fixers or time to heat set and had to wash), the tiny black chair with the pillow and hairdryer on it is where I sit; I move the hairdryer to the box behind me or the floor, keeping it handy so I can dry as I go. I buy Versatex in black, white, red, yellow, and blue. If it comes in a tub, I pour it into big yorker tipped bottles so it's easier to dispense later. When I want to mix up another color I do it in a medium sized yorker tip bottle with a cap for storage. I have three small ceramic bowls that I made in high school that I use to mix paint with binder and fixative for sponging and brushing, and little tiny thin-tipped bottles to mix binder and fixative in for applying it to the unitard by bottle-tip. The reason is that the fixative and binder are only potent for a limited number of hours after mixing with the paint, so I have to mix it in only in the small amounts that I actually apply to the unitard at one time. A few drops of each for every dish full/small bottle full.
As you can see, there's no mannequin in there... I don't use one. I plan it out flat sometimes with a fabric marker, but sometimes I just go for it and visually guess it without guide lines. If the costume's for me, I'll put it on for part of the painting. Otherwise, I'm just applying the paint in small, hand-sized patches at a time, using my hair dryer as I go and trying not to smudge the areas I want to keep white. If I do, though, Versatex washes out really well if it's not set. I have an airbrush, but I haven't learned how to use it yet. If I want to cover large areas with a faint wash of color I use a spray bottle with watered down paint and hang it to dry between coats, or I'll sponge it bit by bit.
Check out your local art supply and craft stores for little bags
of mixed sea sponges, inexpensive nylon brushes (they shed less than natural
hair ones), and bottles. There are online sources, but getting things in person
gives you a better feel for what you're getting. Otherwise, just trust me and
I'll give you a list that you can get at DickBlick or Dharma Trading:
Dick Blick
Dharma Trading
Plan out sheets
tips
underwear
guys