21 May - 29 May, 2002, British Virgin Islands
Crew: LCYC sailing buddies and (still) friends: Lou and Randee, Steve and Lauri, Ted and Joanne Vessel: Beneteau 463 Sloop, "Godspeed"
Up early Tuesday for 0400 shuttle ride to Montreal Dorval airport. Join American Airlines check-in line 0415 for 0630 flight to Miami. Check in, then wait for security/gate check in to open. Pay airport tax (group teams up to shut out line cutting loser), clear security, some hand checking of luggage, demonstration of all electronics, etc., clear in to US customs. Arrive gate, nothing open in gate area, all feeling caffeine deprived. Board on time, off to Miami. American Airlines serves nutrigrain bars in feeble attempt to satisfy everyone's hunger, swell idea, natives getting restless. Some watch movie (A Beautiful Mind), some sleep, all have growling stomachs. Arrive Miami on time, change for flight to San Juan. Ted selected for extensive search of carryon luggage, stop short of full body cavity search. Yet, he DOES look suspicious. Grab expensive sandwich in Miami airport, board on time for 
flight to SJU. Flight not full. More napping, still no food from American.
Arrive SJU early, attempt to grab earlier flight to Beef Island, but AA could not achieve timely baggage transfer. Hang out in AA wing in SJU airport, no human food available. Catch Beef Island 1500 flight, Ted again selected for thorough search. Flight pretty smooth in spite of high winds. Finally arrive in Tortola just under 10 hours after departure. AA has done it's part in keeping everyone slim prior to trip by serving no meals the entire time.
Arrive at new Beef Island airport; looks nice, still no A/C, and no food concessions open yet (are we sensing a theme here??). Anxious moment in baggage claim as Lauri's bag plays hide and seek with others and comes out last. Through BVI customs, customs guy could not crack a smile if his life depended on it. Moorings rep meets us, catch open jitney ride to Moorings base, pass over countless speed bumps, arrive around 1615.
Find boat on "B" dock, "Godspeed", registered Denver Colorado. Guys and Randee catch end of chart briefing, Lauri checks us in, Joanne stuck with luggage guard duty. Back to boat, get dedicated boat briefing, just us on our boat. Ted wins the toss and secures large forward cabin. Foodstuffs buried in checked luggage emerge - cookies, crackers, tuna, canned chicken, coffee bags, tea bags, sugar packets, lemonade, nuts, trash bags, ziploc bags - we must have been a veritable airborne 7-11! Pre-purchased beverages have been delivered and as some of us start looking for places to hide the gallons of drinking water, others help out by trying to finish off a bottle of Vodka.
Women head off to market at Moorings dock while men settle back for "just a quick cocktail, no sense letting perfectly good ice go to waste". Supermarket adventure for initial provisioning=$260 - partially inflated because we had to add vodka to the list.. already it seems we are running low! Stow purchased groceries as well as all items we had stashed in our personal luggage. Pick up and stow snorkel fins. Dinner @ Moorings base restaurant, everyone too pooped to go any further.
Back into Pusser's for happy hour around 1700. Dinghy engine dies in lagoon. Some quick rowing brings us to the dock and we tie up outside Pusser's. Toolmen surrender on attempt to fix dinghy engine, Steve calls Moorings on Lauri's cell phone (VHF and boat cell unsuccessful), and DEMANDS SERVICE!!!!! We all sit down to wings, Painkillers, Bahama Mamas, assorted Daiquiris, beer, etc. Wings excellent. Julian shows up with new dinghy engine, gets convinced to take old one back. Gentlemen happy, new engine runs better.
Return to boat, lots of wind coming through the Frenchman's Cay cut. No rain. Dinner on board, BBQ chicken, salad, rice, good! Randee provides excellent dessert - Oreos! Excellent teamwork in galley, everyone works (and sings) well together. Motown music inspires prep workers. Grill team does good job on chicken. Elton John accompanies dinner. All retire early, OK night but windy.
Early departure for Jost Van Dyke. Wind booking pretty good, around 18 kts as we come around point outside of Soper's, decide to motor to Green Cay for snorkeling. Decide we like the autopilot, which is being called either Fred or Auto, depending on your whimsy level. Anchor off Green Cay 0930, not too crowded, around 6-7 boats. Snorkeling party (Lou, Randee, Ted, Joanne) dinks in for snorkeling, exploring, and treasure hunting around the cay; Lauri and Steve stay aboard. Lauri snorkels on anchor and pronounces set OK; spies 2 rays skimming the bottom under the boat. Lauri tries VHF to reach office friends out on charter of out St. Thomas but no luck. Snorkeling party returns and reports good-to-excellent snorkeling, lots of cool fish! Lou hikes the entire cay! Haul anchor before noon, head to Little Harbor, JVD. In early, lots of moorings, decide on the Sydney's side. BBQ chicken salad lunch pronounced tasty. Snorkeling party of Ted, Steve, Lauri and Randee head over to small reef in the harbor. OK snorkeling, not too many fish, although Ted and Randee find coral head with mother lode of fish. Experiment with dinghy step that Steve brought along. Initial trial not good, Steve has to climb up outboard to get back in dinghy.
Rigs another line (modification) which allows you to haul yourself in - better, this works. 
Still look like a beached whale, but at least one can beach themselves! Back on board, call on VHF and make reservations with Abe's restaurant. Check the menu and decide Harris' sounds better. Cancel Abe's reservation, make reservations at Harris' under assumed name (we are now "Secrets"). Make Ted call so they don't recognize Steve's voice!
Dueling shower activity commences, Ted stranded in forward head with no water pressure. We convince him it was an accident - somehow he gets clean anyway. Subsequent philosophical discussion about towels displays rare insights into the human psyche. All showered up, group settles in for afternoon bookfest - Oprah would be proud.
Ashore for dinner. Small chatter with other charterers. Drinks good, food fair, no one gets famed lobsters. Photo ops in front of t-shirt display at Sydney's.Return to boat, Early evening, nice and calm.
Pick up park service mooring at Monkey Point (there is only one there now and our timing was outstanding)! Protected spot, not too much wind, bright sun. Steve fitted for new patriotic do-rag to protect cranial area from sunstroke. 
In to dink mooring for snorkeling. Excellent snorkeling, very protected, mucho fish. Snorkel a while, lots to see. Some crew dink back to boat, some swim, some (no names but his initials are Lou) attempt to board neighboring boat. Was it something we said?
Back underway, Captain Steve successfully navigates Camanoe passage - it is so hard to see even when you know where it is. So weird when another mast pops up from what looks like solid land! Arrive Marina Cay 1300. As we attempt to pick up mooring, discover that boat hook has effected an escape at Monkey Point. Not to worry, bow crew adapts and picks up mooring with our new broomhook.
Shore party - walk around the cay, short hike up to top, view is beautiful, flowers so pretty at Marina Cay. Lou takes many pictures at Marina Cay which will become classics. Attempt at provisioning but no luck, supplies too limited - have to settle for ice cream. Try to get ice, but not available, long convoluted reason given, Steve unable to interpret, finally understands "later, mon".
Back aboard, swimming, reading, naps, definitely a pattern emerging. During nap/read/swim sequence, Steve's eyeglasses commit hara-kiri and jump overboard. Cockpit crew watches with great sorrow but musters no motivation to save them. 
Steve does ice run at 1630 and achieves objective in spite of surly attendant. Cocktails on board once ice arrives, back ashore for appetizers at 1730 at Pusser's Marina Cay. Wings, calamari, ribs - wings deemed best but still not as good as those at the Pusser's at Soper's. Eat enough appetizers to make them dinner. Back on board, run engine to charge batteries and harass logkeeper.
Photo ops as we pass Leverick, very picturesque.
Pick up mooring at Bitter end 1115. Ted and Steve go off with dinghy to consult with Moorings sub base @Bitter End - we are still not really happy with dink engine - problem is with connections to gas tank. They get new gas tank, scrubbed out dinghy, and also secure new boat hook! Life is looking up.All ashore for day of hanging out on Bitter End beach. Grounds are beautiful. Secure chaise lounges under thatched huts for shade. Lauri has her sand chair in the surf. Life is good! Swimming, napping, reading, the usual. Steve entertains with jump/dive off end of pier, and finishes up with outstanding pelican walk. All watching from the sand applaud, but secretly we start to think perhaps he has had too much sun. Some provisioning (water, beer, chips - $40). Usual astonishment at Bitter End prices 
- $3.00 for a gallon of spring water, $5 for 6 oz olive oil, $5 for a package of 6 Thomas' Eng muffins, etc. Late afternoon snack/lunch at BE pub, pretty good. Randee makes friends with BE dock crew pet kitty, she is missing Dukey. Back to boat, showers, cocktails, dinner. Pork chops, rice and mixed veggies. Big photo op after dinner in cockpit.. Digital camera operators vie for best shot of moonrise over the Bitter End. Decide a tripod and a stable setting would help tremendously.
All asleep listening to music blaring from Saba Rock - good music, awful singer.
North Sound. Amazing, beautiful, well worth the price. Two stops for photo ops.
Arrive Top of the Baths around 1100. All hike down the path to the baths after being grilled by belonger who wishes to know how we arranged our taxi; we get concerned that Callie may be hijacked, tossed over the cliff and never seen again. Path is pretty short, 300', not too steep, but hot out of the breeze. Into the Baths! Lots of ropes and wooden platforms have been added, the climb is easier than it used to be. Out onto the Devil's Bay side around noon. It's pretty crowded, lots of Puerto Ricans vacationing over the long US Memorial Day holiday weekend. Everyone pretty toasty, most go in for a snorkel. Not too many fish, but canyons in and around the rocks are pretty neat. 
Back through the boulders to the "main" Baths beach. More snorkeling, have to stay aware of fools bringing in dinks to the beach even though it is forbidden these days. Lunch at the beach bar - cheeseburgers $3.75, Heineken $3.00, great bargain! Burgers pronounced good! Randee finds another kitty to bond with. Many photos taken, we should have the ultimate photo CD when consolidated.
Head back up the path to meet our taxi driver. Great band playing at the Top of the Baths restaurant, we wish we had planned time to stop and listen a while. They did an awesome version of Smooth while we were waiting for the cab. Shopping done in small shops - Steve gets grandchildren presents, Randee buys earrings under Joanne's bad influence.
Callie shows up only 6 minutes late, all glad to know he is alive. Exciting taxi ride back to Gun Creek, man those roads are steep, all agree it's really a good thing they don't have snow! Ferry waiting for us, quick ride back to Bitter End. Great trip!Arrive Bitter End 1400. Randee, Lou, Joanne opt to hang on the beach a bit longer, Ted, Steve, Lauri head back to boat. As we dink back we come across SV "Bone Dry", Lauri's office friends. Arrange to meet for dinner at Saba Rock. Back to boat. 
Steve and Ted dink to Saba Rock to make dinner reservs and also sacrifice themselves and have a drink to make sure they are good. Lauri takes a swim to cool off. Ted and Steve return just before the heavens open. Starts as small normal late afternoon shower, but goes on forever, or at least 30 minutes. Air is pretty cool, winds kick up, some hull sailing on mooring. Lauri takes nice shower in fresh rainwater; Ted steps out to do the same, howls at cold air and water, jumps back into cabin and warm shower below. Lauri jumps into the water and hangs off swim ladder to stay warm. Rainstorm ends, we attempt to communicate with shore party via walkie-talkie, determine batteries are shot - they can hear us, we can't hear them. Ted, happy with new configuration on dinghy engine, zips in to get them at around 90 mph - go speed racer! He is a happy guy. All return to boat, shower up, cocktail time!
Dink in to Saba Rock 1800 for dinner. "Bone Dry" crew arrives a bit later, group chat over more cocktails, everyone behaves(no one talks business!). Sit down to 2 tables for dinner. Our dinner orders: 2 all u can eat buffet, 3 fish and chips, one burger. Fish&Chips wins hands down. Buffet overpriced and not too good. Steve says best buffet item was the coleslaw - you gotta eat a lot of coleslaw to get your money's worth!
Head back to boat after dinner, other boat stays back for some dancing. Band pretty good, singer better than last night!Bob and Peg dink over from Bone Dry for food exchange - one can Coco Lopez to them in return for large jar of mayo, Hellman's no less! Each side very pleased with the trade. Bob and Peg head back to Bone Dry for whist tournament, Godspeed calls it a night.
Head out of North Sound, all pleased with our two day stay there. Once outside, pop sail, nice downwind sail going, consider stopping @ Dogs for snorkeling, but decide we want to get to destination earlier - will snorkel at Cistern 
Point near Cooper instead. Arrive at Cooper in time to grab mooring. Folks tired, but we decide to snorkel before lunch. Dink over to Cistern Point dinghy mooring, all in the water, great snorkeling there, slight current but no problem. Other snorkelers envious of our dink step, they think it is standard Moorings gear and they got stiffed! Back to boat; shore party regulars (Lou, Randee, Joanne) head in to shore to hang in beach chaises. Steve, Ted, Lauri nap on boat. Shore party returns in time to make purchases from "Deliverance" - small supply boat that sells bread, ice and ice cream and will take trash for $$. We buy ice cream, expensive but sooo good. Cocktails and dinner on boat. Steaks, mushrooms, teriyaki noodles, of course cookies for dessert! Retreat to cockpit after dinner for Beatles CD concert and sunset photos.
As night approaches, wind shift around the point points us 90 degrees to the swell, so we do a lot of rolling. Lots of clunking, stern slapping, mooring ball bumping, wind howling, pretty much the whole enchilada - and then the rains begin! Rain squalls every hour starting around 0230. No one really sleeps, uncomfortable night.
Steve and Joanne pass on Indians snorkeling, everyone else in the water. Lou swallows large mouthful of water early on, boards next boat down and gets ride back; disappointed that the guy on the boat dinks him back and not the lady in the bikini. Snorkeling really good, lots of canyons and neat coral. Boat crew fools snorkeling crew by moving the boat closer in - everyone swims right by it on return. Lauri has unpleasant encounter with coral when swamped by waves in the shallows. Treats with benadryl and neosporin - no germs could survive! Drop park day mooring and head around to the bight on Norman Island. Pick up mooring in old "Billy Bones" area of the bight. Billy Bones no longer there, "Pirates" is in it's place but not yet open. Randee makes up good lunch, remaining cold cuts with great tuna mac salad.
No one interested in exploring the caves, energy is at low ebb after bad night. After lunch, shore party heads in for chaise lounging on beach - Steve, Lou, Randee, Joanne. Ted and Lauri stay on boat. Everyone naps! Lauri zonked by bendryl, sleeps all afternoon but rallies for cocktails!Shore party returns and we determine to move boat closer to Willy T; circle around a while looking for a good spot; enough wind so we don't have a hot night, close enough to the Willy T to dink over later, not too close that the music will be too loud. Finally find a winner. Randee makes great nachos appetizer to celebrate last night - everyone gloms. Finish up fridge contents for dinner, have gourmet delight of kielbasa, sauerkraut and two kinds of rice - inventive cooks make most of remaining provisions. Licorice and gummy bears round out the meal. Sounds awful but everything eaten up. Ted and Steve do the dishes, much grousing about how many dishes were used, inefficient galley layout, yada yada. Dishes still get done and put away. Lauri and Steve, Lou and Randee head over to Willy T 
for last night Painkillers. Get creative squeezing the dink in the crowded dock! Willy T dining room full, bar still a little empty but fills as we sit about with our drinks. Music good, only one jumper from the roof, but at least it was a young buff guy!Head back to boat around 2230, pleased we found the boat on the first shot, but a late night for us! Joanne and Ted still up, but everyone settles in for last night aboard. Not ready to go home, but looking forward to solid night's sleep! Pretty windy night, typical Bight behavior.
No luck reaching Moorings on VHF until we are practically in the marina. Finally raise them, directed to slip. Steve puts her bow in, no problems mon! Boat checkout complete by 1030, this charter is over (sigh). Cab pickup scheduled for 1330. All but Ted head for the pool. Ted stays with boat and guards everyone's luggage, valuables, left over food, etc. Quick swim, non salt water actually feels good even if it is bath water temperature. Randee does gazillion laps. A little time left to read, even nap if you need to! Then start heading for showers. Pick up sub sandwich lunch from Moorings market - 6 turkey and swiss please! Lou and Lauri have final Red Stripe.
Haul baggage to waiting area, bite the bullet and put real shoes on (more sighs). Head for airport on time, driver loads up the van with 12 of us and then walks off before turning on a/c. Recent showers completely wasted at this 
point. Arrive airport, pretty good line at American Airlines, employee questioning everyone to make sure no one is bringing hot sauce or cigarette lighters on flight. Ted not searched this time, he must be looking like a belonger.Pay airport tax ($10 per), go thru security check, finally get on plane. Quick flight to San Juan. Have to clear US customs in San Juan, we go on forced march from gate to baggage to immigration to customs. Steve almost fails immigration when he confuses Joe Theisman with the Heisman trophy, touch and go, but they pass us through. Grab bags, clear customs, throw bags back on carousel.Board flight to NYC-JFK on time, big surprise, Lauri/Steve/Joanne/Ted get free upgrade to business class on AIRBUS, this is OK, we are thinking we will take advantage of the reclining seats at some point. Good flight to NY, most watch movie (Kate and Leapold-OK but a chick flick, glad I did not pay full theater price). American feeds us this trip, surprise surprise. Arrive JFK on time, head to gate for last hop to Montreal, short wait. Last surprise, last flight is regional jet instead of prop. Land in Montreal to sheets of rain, big lightning on horizon. Lauri feeling crappy, lags behind. Another long walk to baggage claim, but bags all come and quickly. Call Best Western for shuttle ride to our car, they come right away, this is a great service.
Hop in Ted's car for long ride home, guess what, it's raining again. Ride interrupted a few times, Lauri rejecting American Airlines dinner. Finally arrive home around 0215, hugs all around, everyone exhausted but agreed, great vacation, why did we come home to this cold rainy place?
Great trip, when can we go again????
