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HONGNAM : Tourist sites

The Ancient Royal Capital of Hue

Hue was once the capital of Vietnam during the Tay Son and Nguyen dynasties. Throughout the centuries, Hue has become a large complex of architectural relics of picturesque elegance. The UNESCO recognised it as a World Heritage site.

Imperial City

The Imperial City is located on the banks of the Huong (Perfume) River. The construction of the square citadel using bricks started in 1805. The wall is 6m high, 20m thick and surrounded by a moat.

The citadel has 10 gates: Nha Do, Sap, Ngan, Thuong Tu, Dong Ba, Ke Trai, Hau, An Hoa, Chanh Tay, and Huu gates.

Imperial Enclosure

The Imperial Enclosure is located in the center of the citadel. It mainly consists of the Noon Gate, Great Rites Courtyard, Thai Hoa Palace, Dai Cung (Great Court) Gate, Thuong Uyen (Royal) Garden, Trieu Temple, Thai Temple, Hien Lam Pavilion, Hung Temple, and Phung Tien Temple.

Forbidden Citadel

Constructed early in Emperor Gia Long's reign in 1804, it was first called Cung Thanh, City of Residences, and later renamed Forbidden Purple City by Emperor Minh Mang in 1822. It is connected to the Imperial Enclosure by seven gates.

Some of the architectural constructions found in the Forbidden Purple City are Can Chanh Palace, Ta Huu Vu (Left and Right Houses), Can Thanh Palace, Khon Thai Residence, Kien Trung Palace, Royal Library, and Royal Theater.

Hue Things Up

The Hue festival kicked off with flying kites and colours in Hanoi earlier this month and featured everything from fine foods to some of the country's latest fashion-based, of course, on the ancient Hue tradition for quality.

Displays at various venues around the capital included photo exhibitions of some of Hue's royal treasures and some of it most scenic sports, folk music performances, works of art, cultural and historical discussions and food-tasting events.

There were also demonstrations of ancient kite-making techniques and a "very pleasant" day of kite flying in Lenin Park, as one expat attendee described it.The as well fashion show hosted by designer Minh Hanh did not fail to excite.

"Our two collections of Hue fashions exposed the value of its people's sense of aesthetics," said designer Minh Hanh, "Violet, the city's most characteristic colour, played the leading role in the first collection, while the second featured designs derived from traditional royal garb."

Also along for the big occasion, three of Hue's schools and universities hosted stalls to highlight the city's long tradition of educational excellence.

The exhibition also aimed to show the cultural and historic links between Hue and both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City as well as to present the city's current wildlife preservation programmes.

The event proved a sizeable success. With both locals and expats filing into most events.

"The enthusiasm and encouragement the event received both from individuals and organisations helped realise our goals for the event," said one of the week's organisers.


Sounds of the Pith

Enjoy Ca Hue on the Perfume River.

Do you have an ear for music? Do you think you often share the same feeling as a composer? When they empathise with a stream babbling or perhaps the long grass of a steppe stretching in the wind, maybe you feel the very same pithy vibe.

Needless to say, not everyone, of course, is a musical connoisseur. So if you’re one of those people yet to find the melodic soul within you, try racing along Hue’s Perfume River and listen to the melancholy rhymes of Ca Hue spreading out across miles of smooth water.

May you sigh with bliss and, if you’ve never realised it before, enlighten yourself with the affirmation that music really can be an oasis from this jumbled life.

I love Hue. Hue’s cultural heritage with its mausoleums, palaces, tombs, pagodas, mounts and rivers is a great pride of the nation. But any studies on Hue’s values must also include its people. To me Ca Hue is a reflection of their very essence, their core spirit.

Ca Hue, a distinct form of classical chamber music, is found only in Hue. It possesses a set of melodic principles and thus only comes into full blossom when sung with the distinguished, amiable accent of Hue locals, sweet with its own timbre.

The four musical instruments used for accompaniment can include a 36-chord zither, a Chinese four-chord lute, a two-chord fiddle and a two-chord guitar (tranh, ti, nhi and nguyet respectively).

Ca Hue’s origins date to the 18th century when it became regarded as a "learned" music performed at the imperial court for the entertainment of the mandarin elite.

In the concept of kings, mandarins and Confucians of the time, music was not simply an entertainment but an education, a patterning of morality and a doorway to the spirits. Among their four prime interests, music was listed first, followed by chess, poetry and painting.

Ca Hue saw its renaissance in the twentieth century when it again became one of the most refined and courteous arts. Imbued with a vague melancholy and humanity it is talked of as a reflection of the human soul. It is, many say, an expression of innermost feelings through melodies. Its rhymes and melodies are very heart-touching, slow, deep and intimate.

When its music and singing voices are raised, there appears to be a concerto of emotion, a harmony of feelings among musical players, singers and listeners. All witnesses sharing the experience may for fleeting or friends.

Ca Hue reminds me of an old tale in China. Long ago, there was a good musician called Ba Nha. He never played music for anyone except Trung Tu Ky, his bosom-friend. For both, music was and exchange of confidences. When Ky died, Nha broke his instrument and never played music again.

Those yearning to bring about a reciprocation of feelings, understanding, sympathy and love may turn to Ca Hue. Historical stories recount how some Ca Hue songstresses even became royal concubines of kings or mandarins.

Naturally this revered musical expression was performed at the imperial court. But its most redolent appearances in history perhaps stem from times when kings were swept along the Perfume River, borne in royal boats with a musical ensemble.

Nowadays, Ca Hue is appreciated by people of all walks of life. It is performed in theatres and at festivities.

However, people still say you can only fully appreciate Ca Hue when you hear it on the Perfume River, especially on a quiet night.

The elegant Perfume River, with its walls, palaces, temples, mausoleums, old houses and gardens half hidden in a wonderful natural landscape of river-banks imbued with tranquillity and romance, is said to blow spirit into the music.

The image of Hue girls in the ao dai (traditional long-dressed) and singing Ca Hue songs is a lovely stroke in the picture of Hue’s people.

The ancient capital’s denizens, in harmony with their dwelling place, customarily live meditative lives. They are elegant, gentle and hospitable with their language, customs and habits, many-hued with their blend of the nation’s cultural characteristics.

Today, even though modernity has put new previously unheard of rhythms into Hue and the rest of the country, and the spiritual life of Hue’s people still more or less bears clear characteristics of late feudalism and its religious rites.

The slow, gentle, deep and intimate melodies of Ca Hue are not only a lure for Hue lovers. They are also nurturing the inspiration of many famous contemporary music composers of the nation who were born in, and grew up in Hue such as Trinh Cong Son, Tran Hoan...

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