SoftMaple Summer 2003 litter

Week Three


Week Three (Days 15-21)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Teeth begin to erupt
+ Puppies stand up and start walking
+ Begin to lap liquids
+ Defecate/urinate without stimulation
+ Start becoming aware of environment
+ Start playing with littermates
+ Develop sense of smell
+ Puppies will start to discriminate as to where to relieve themselves



Day Fifteen 8/17/2003


Seger is eating a ton of food. She is eating almost three times what she normally eats. She has dry puppy food available at all times, and gets three or four meals of puppy food, cottage cheese, yogurt and ground beef watered down. I also add Vit C (Ester-C) to her meals. Once the pups start eating, I will give them Ester-C with each meal.

There are a lot of studies and articles of the benefit of giving Vit C and the decrease in frequency of Canine Hip Dysplasia. There is evidence suggesting that HD may be a genetic deficiency in use of Vit C or its production. There are also studies where Vit C is given to dogs with HD, and they have had a decrease in the breakdown of the hip joint. Dogs do make their own Vit C to an extent. I have heard pros and cons on the subject.

I have just started giving this in my last few litters. This is something you may want to discuss with your vet, or do more research on. I don't have any clauses in my contract where you have to feed the dog Vit-C or the hip guarantee will be null and void. ( I have seen that in other Curly breeders contracts, and other sporting dog breeders contracts)

From the OFA Site : "No, there is no evidence in the scientific literature that supplements (i.e. vitamin c) will prevent dysplasia. Reduced caloric intake and glucosamine products in immature animals genetically predisposed for hip dysplasia may lesson the pathologic changes associated with hip dysplasia."

More importantly, you have to keep your pet's weight down; obesity only increases the burden on the joints. I like to see a growing Curly pup on the lighter side as opposed to fat. Keep a Curly lean until the bones have stopped growing.


Puppy Toddlers (3 - 6 Weeks) During the Toddler period, puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. This emergence from the litter is a gradual and continual learning experience. During this stage of development puppies learn basic behavioral patterns specific to dogs. While playing, they practice different body postures, learning what the postures mean and how they affect their mother and litter mates. They learn what it is like to bite and be bitten, what barking and other vocalizations mean and how to make and use them to establish social relationships with other dogs. Such learning and activity tempers their own biting and vocalizing. From the age of five weeks, the mother teaches her puppies basic manners. They learn to be submissive to her leadership and what behaviors are acceptable. If necessary, she growls, snarls, or snaps at them as a form of discipline. When weaning the litter, for instance, the mother will discipline her puppies so that they will leave her alone. Because the mother disciplines them in a way that they clearly understand, after a few repetitions, the puppies will respond to a mere glare from her. If a pup has not learned to accept leadership (and discipline) in its early interactions with dogs, its training will be more difficult. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early tend to be nervous, more prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to discipline. Often they are aggressive with other dogs. Generally speaking, a puppy taken away from it's mother and litter mates before seven weeks of age, may not realize its full potential as a dog and companion. To maximize the mental and psychological development of puppies, they must remain in the nest with their mother and litter mates until seven weeks of age.


Day Sixteen 8/18/2003


The pups get some visitors today. I am still being careful about who I let in the house to see the pups, since they are so young and susceptible to so many things. But on the flip side, I want the pups to be well socialized, and that means they have to meet more people than just me!


Kids and Dogs: A Common Sense Approach

Understanding dog bites: how they occur and how how to prevent them


This article by Vicki DeGruy, originally published in Dog Owner's Guide, was the winner of a 1993 Dog Writer's Association of America Maxwell award for best article in a canine newspaper.

Question: I'd like to get a medium to large breed dog for my family but I'm worried. I've heard so many stories about dogs biting children. How can I be sure that it will be safe for my kids?

Answer: You have good reason to be concerned. Statistics show that most dog bites causing serious injury involve medium to large sized dogs and children under the age of five years. The dog is usually known to the child or is the family's pet.

To understand how these bites occur, what causes them and how to prevent them, a little education in the nature of dogs and the nature of small children is in order.

A dog's temperament is first inherited, then modified by events in his life and proper training. Some breeds and certain bloodlines within breeds are friendlier, more tolerant and more adaptable to training because they were bred to be that way. A responsible breeder wisely puts emphasis on good temperament when selecting breeding stock. Breeders without adequate knowledge of dog behavior may not understand what a correct temperament is and use unsuitable dogs for breeding.

Unscrupulous breeders sometimes deliberately breed dogs with poor temperaments. There are some dogs, just like there are some humans, that are mentally disturbed or have an illness or physical defect that affects their behavior. A dog's basic temperament, instincts and training have the biggest effects on how that dog reacts to the world around him and his levels of tolerance.

Very few bites happen without provocation -- but the provocation may exist only in the dog's mind! We need to realize that dogs are not little people in furry costumes. They don't think in the same way that we do. They look at the world around them with a different perspective. Most of their actions are instinctive. A dog will react to situations according to what his instincts tell him unless these instincts are overridden by the consistent training and socialization he needs to receive from his owner throughout his life.

Here is one of the most commonly reported scenarios in a bite case: A very young child sees a pretty dog he'd like to pet. The dog may not want to be petted. The dog's first instinctive reaction is show his displeasure by giving a warning -- growling. The growl means that something more unpleasant will follow if the warning isn't heeded.

The type and number of warnings given can vary. Many dogs faced with a child like this would just walk away. Walking away can be considered a warning. If the child keeps trying to pet the dog, a sterner warning, usually a growl, will follow. Some warnings are more subtle -- a stiffening of the body, for example. Few dogs bite without giving some indication beforehand.

Small children (and some adults) don't recognize a warning when they see or hear one. A very young child (under age six) doesn't know what a growl means. What may be obvious to an adult isn't understood by the child. The child continues to pet or follow after the dog even though the dog has now clearly told him what will happen if he doesn't stop.

Dogs instinctively set up an invisible "fight or flight" boundary around themselves. The size of this boundary depends on his level of confidence and tolerance. A fearful dog will give itself a wider area than a more stable one. When someone who the dog perceives as threatening or unwelcome enters that area, the dog has two choices -- it can run away or it can defend itself. If it feels that it can't run away, it will fight instead, no matter how afraid it might be. Some dogs will choose to fight first, rather than run.

A small child that's petting or hugging a dog has already intruded well within the dog's flight or fight boundary, the dog's safety zone. If the dog has tried to leave or has issued a warning with no response from the child, the dog (in his mind) has no other recourse -- he bites. This is normal, instinctive behavior -- to the dog. He is responding to what he perceives as a threat and is doing what his instincts tell him to. Remember that dogs don't think in the same way that people do. A child's innocent action, petting the dog, can be provocation for a bite when seen through the eyes of the dog.

There are other circumstances that can provoke a dog to bite a child. Running, playing, screaming kids can trigger an instinctive predator-prey reaction in some dogs. Children who rough house and wrestle with dogs unknowingly encourage them to use their teeth. Dogs equate this kind of play with littermates or other dogs where using teeth is allowed. Startling a sleeping dog or petting him when he's eating can also provoke a bite.

What can be done to prevent dogs from biting children? I feel that, first, it's essential to understand that almost any dog will bite under the right circumstances. Second, a dog is a dog, an animal whose behavior isn't the same as humans and can't always be predicted with 100 percent accuracy, no matter how friendly or reliable he is.

Obedience training and socialization are absolute musts for a dog who'll be spending time with children. Remember that a dog will act according to his instincts if he doesn't receive proper training or if that training isn't kept up through regular practice. The dog needs to be taught to obey commands under all conditions no matter how distracting. Just as responding to the command to "come" could save the dog's life someday, an immediate response to the command "leave it!" could save a child from serious injury.

Just as children need to be taught how to be well-behaved around other people, they need to be taught to be well-behaved and respectful around animals. They need to learn what kinds of games are appropriate, how to touch the dog properly, how to interpret the dog's body language and when the dog is not to be disturbed. When they're old enough to understand, kids should be involved in the training process. They should learn to give the dog commands and be able to enforce them.

Adult supervision is essential! Small children should never, ever be left alone with any dog, no matter how reliable the dog has been before. A responsible adult needs to be on the scene to prevent any aggressive behavior by the dog and to keep the child from putting him or herself in danger. Telling the toddler to stay away from the dog isn't enough! Remember that young children don't recognize when they may in trouble. It's up to the adult to keep them safe from the dog and to keep the dog safe from the children. I can't stress enough that adult supervision around children and dogs is absolutely critical! If you can't be right there to handle whatever might come up or if you have any doubt about the dog's behavior around children, the dog should be put away out of reach of the kids.

Almost all of us would agree that it would be nice for our children to grow up with a dog. Kids and dogs are wonderful, almost an American tradition. If you're thinking of getting a dog for the children or already have one, here are some guidelines: Consider postponing the purchase of a dog, especially a large one, until your children are at least six years old.

  1. Take your time when looking for a dog. Do your homework. Learn the differences in the various breeds and choose one best suited to your lifestyle and experience.
  2. Be honest with yourself about the amount of time and work you're willing to put into a dog. If you don't have time to raise and train the dog properly, don't get one.
  3. Buy your dog from a reputable, responsible breeder who puts priority on good temperament and health and consistently produces dogs that excel in those areas. Choose a breeder who's experienced and willing to guide and advise you about care and training throughout the dog's life.
  4. Train and socialize your dog properly! Get help if you run into problems. Don't fool yourself into thinking the dog will "outgrow" it or that the problem will go away on its own.
  5. Teach your children how to behave correctly and safely around animals and to respect them.
  6. If your children are too young to understand, it will be up to you to physically supervise them and protect them from potential harm. Don't take chances with their safety! If you can't be right there to take care of a problem or if you can't control your dog or your child -- put the dog away.
  7. Remember that what your dog tolerates from your own children may not be tolerated from someone else's. You need to take extra safety precautions when other children visit and make sure that the children obey your ground rules.
  8. Never, ever leave a child alone with any dog, no matter how harmless the dog seems.

Kids and dogs are wonderful together -- when adults use common sense and put safety first.

Vicki DeGruy

All the pups

We worm the puppies. Even though Seger’s stools were checked, and she was parasite free prior to breeding, I assume that the pups have worms. Roundworm larvae will encyst in body tissue of adult bitches and activate during the last stages of pregnancy to infest puppies. So even though Seger did not have worms, and the pups have not been around any other dogs, they have a good chance of having worms. Since Seger cleans up after the puppies, she also must be treated.

Worming should start at 2 weeks. Worming needs to be repeated at 3, 4, 6, 8 and 10 weeks. . The first treatment kills any adult worms. The second treatment kills any new worms that may have hatched after the initial treatment. Once the puppies go to their new homes, the pups new veterinarian will take over the worming schedule. It may be necessary at this time to bring in stool samples for analysis.

The pups like the taste of it, and suck it right out of the dropper!


Day Seventeen 8/19/2003





Day Eighteen 8/20/2003


(I think I solved the bandwidth problem with the web page...)


Had to clip nails again today. They grow so fast! You can feel the little teeth starting to poke through. Pretty soon Seger will get uncomfortable nursing them. A couple of the pups have really found their voices. They make little growly noises, and half-barks when they hear you.



Don't take my picture!


Some of the pups have also started to play with siblings. They bite and pull on each others ears. The pups are still very uncoordinated, and are always falling down and rolling on their backs.


Black? Liver?
What makes the color of a curly?

Here is a little bit about the color genetics in the Curly Coated Retriever.


Color

Black or liver. Either color is correct. A prominent white patch is undesirable but a few white hairs are allowable in an otherwise good dog.

Liver is the recessive color in the curly. Black is dominant. To produce a liver curly, both parents must carry the liver gene. You can breed two black curlies and get liver pups. You can also breed a black curly to a liver and get all black pups.

Here is demonstrated the color combinations that occur in a breeding. To have a liver dog, the gene match up has to be bb. Either BB or Bb will produce a black dog. The BB will be black dominant, only producing black puppies. The Bb will carry the recessive liver gene, and may produce liver pups if combine with either another liver carrying dog, or a liver dog.

each pup in the litter has the same one in four chance of having each of the gene combinations.
It is not an exact 25% split


A black dominant dog (BB) to a black dominant bitch (BB)
BB
B
BBBB
B
BBBB

produces all black dominant dogs(BB)


A black dominant dog (BB) to a black bitch with a liver gene (Bb).
BB
B
BBBB
b
BbBb

produces all black pups, two of which would carry a liver gene(Bb)


Black dog with a liver gene (Bb) bred to a black bitch with a liver gene(Bb)
Bb
B
BBBb
b
Bbbb
produces one Black dominant dog (BB)
one liver dog (bb) and 2 black dogs with liver genes (Bb)

Black dominant dog (BB) bred to liver bitch (bb)
BB
b
BbBb
b
BbBb
produces all pups black with recessive liver gene (Bb)

Black male with liver gene (Bb) bred to liver bitch (bb)
Bb
b
Bbbb
b
Bbbb
produces 2 black dogs that carry liver (Bb) and 2 liver pups (bb)

A liver dog (bb) bred to a liver bitch (bb)
bb
b
bbbb
b
bbbb
Produces all liver (bb) pups


(This is what we did breeding Frankie to Seger)
Black male with liver gene (Bb) bred to liver bitch (bb)

I got 4 liver bitches, 3 liver males, 2 black males, 2 black females. If it were an absolute science, she would have had half livers and half black pups that carry liver.

Right now there are mixed thoughts on breeding liver to liver. Some people hold out that you bring all sorts of bad traits to the surface. Some breeders have actually gone as far as to not allow any liver in their breeding programs at all, thinking it carries all sorts of genetic problems. In other breeds its common to breed liver to liver. It has been done in other countries with success, as well in the US on a small scale with success.


Day Nineteen 8/21/2003












SoftMaple Curly Coated Retrievers
Mark and Cathy Lewandowski
8282 Soft Maple Road
Croghan New York 13327

For information email me at:
softmaple@curlycoat.org


Pictures of the family

Back to the Pedigree

Some socialization and training tips for your pup


Click on book above, or mail a check to:
$19.95 ($5.50 Shipping and Handling)
Cathy Lewandowski
8282 Soft Maple Road
Croghan NY 13327


About the Book

Follow a litter of puppies from birthday until they go to their new homes. The diary contains lots of pictures, tips on puppy rearing, some breed specific information, and lots of information on the care of any breed of dog.

I started doing an on-line puppy diary since many of the people that would be getting one of my pups would not be able to travel here to see the pups. I did not want to put a bunch of cute puppy pictures online, and encourage anyone to have a litter just because they wanted to see cute puppies! Breeding dogs, if done the right way, is a lot of work. Lost sleep and sometimes heartache. It takes a lot of time, effort and money to raise a litter of puppies. Once I started doing The Puppy Diary, I realized I had a captive audience. These people logged on every day to see the pictures, and read what was happening. I used this opportunity to cram as much education into each day as I could. Health, Coat issues, grooming, feeding, socializing, vet care, puppy evaluations, shipping puppies.... you name it! I tried to put it in The Diary. It was suggested that I make it into a book. Well here it is! There are 560 pictures and over 300 pages of living with and watching one litter grow up.

I am sure may conscientious, caring breeders raise litters similar to the way I do. Its is a good look into the time, money, commitment it takes to bring up a litter of pups. Some of the things that go on behind the scenes, that the eventual puppies owners (family), never realize go into the litter. Enjoy my litter as I see them. Day to day

Contents

Chapter One (Week One) ... Page 1

Seger comes into season
Happy Birthday!
Removing the Dewclaws
Start of the Bio Sensor program

Chapter Two (Week Two) ... Page 48
Coat issues.
Tail Gland Hyperplasia
Do Curlies Shed?

Chapter Three (Week Three) ... Page 94
End of Bio Sensor Exercises
Worming The puppies
Eyes are open
First pup escapes from the box

Chapter Four (Week Four) ... Page 130
Weaning. The great food fight!
Introduction to the puppy play room
Shark Cage

Chapter Five (Week Five) ... Page 156
Field dog? Show Dog? CPE?
Happy Mothers Day!
First Stacked pictures

Chapter Six (Week Six) ... Page 195
Toys! Toys! Toys!
What’s In A Name?
Kids and Dogs
Introduction to Wings

Chapter Seven (Week Seven) ... Page 236
About Puppies and Retrieving
Socialize your puppy
First Shots & Vet Visit
Splish Splash, first bath!

Chapter Eight (Week Eight) ... Page 286
Shape up or ship out!
Requirements to ship puppies
See all the pups!