SoftMaple Summer 2003 litter


Week One


Week One
(Days 1-7)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ 90% of time spent sleeping
+ 10% eating
+ Susceptible to heat/cold
+ Instinctive reflexes: crawl, seek warmth, nurse
+ They can right themselves if placed upside down
+ Needs stimulation for urination/defecation
+ Rapid development of central nervous system
+ Need constant care from bitch
+ Rectal temperatures 94-97 degrees Farenheit
+ Pups may lose 10% of weight after birth, but should start gaining again
+ Weight should double by end of week


Day's 1 and 2

Day's 3 and 4

Day Five 8/7/2003


Morning comes early, and Seger wants her breakfast! To make milk, she needs to eat more than usual, and have plenty of fluids. She has access to dry food all the time, but likes her special meals, which she gets 4 times a day. (or whenever she barks and demands them!)

The pups are put through the Bio Sensor exercises. The litter collars are checked to see if anyone has outgrown theirs. I grab a quick weight on them, and put them back in the cleaned up whelping box.

On one of the Curly lists this morning, someone posted about a breeder friend who had lost their Curly bitch while in for a C-section. She is faced with the hard task of raising 6 orphaned curly pups. What an awful thing, to loose your bitch, and be faced with no time to grieve, since you have 6 tiny lives depending on you for all of their needs.

Here is an article about raising Orphaned puppies.


ORPHANED PUPPIES

Raising an orphaned puppy is a noble and rewarding experience. The bonding that will occur in the first few days will likely last for many years. However, orphaned puppies are very fragile; raising them requires jumping numerous hurdles. Do not be disappointed if you are not successful.

What problems am I likely to encounter?

Several critical problems must be addressed in caring for orphaned puppies. Among these are chilling, dehydration, and hypoglycemia. These problems are interrelated and may often exist at the same time. Close observation and prompt attention if any of these problems develop are essential to survival. Of course, proper feeding of the orphaned puppy is extremely important.

Chilling

Chilling in newborn puppies can lead to significant mortality. A puppy will dissipate far more body heat per pound of body weight than an adult dog. The normal newborn puppy depends upon radiant heat from its mother to help maintain its body temperature. In the absence of the mother, various methods of providing heat, such as incubators, heat lamps, or hot water bottles can be used.

Rectal temperatures in a normal newborn puppy range from 95º to 99ºF (35º to 37.2ºC)for the first week, 97º to 100ºF (36.1º to 37.8ºC) for the second and third weeks, and reach the normal temperature of an adult (100º to 102ºF) (37.8º to 38.9ºC) by the fourth week.

When the rectal temperature drops below 94ºF (34.3ºC), the accompanying metabolic alterations are life-threatening. Therefore, immediate action is necessary to provide the warmth the puppy needs to survive. A healthy newborn can usually survive chilling if warmed slowly.

During the first four days of its life, the orphaned puppy should be maintained in an environmental temperature of 85º to 90ºF (29.4º to 32.2ºC). The temperature may gradually be decreased to 80ºF (26.7ºC) by the seventh to tenth day and to 72ºF (22.2ºC) by the end of the fourth week. If the litter is large, the temperature need not be as high. As puppies huddle together, their body heat provides additional warmth.

Caution: Too rapid warming of a chilled puppy may result in its death.

Dehydration

The lack of regular liquid intake or the exposure of the puppy to a low humidity environment can easily result in dehydration. The inefficiency of the digestion and metabolism of a chilled puppy may also lead to dehydration and other changes such as those discussed in this paper.

Experienced breeders can detect dehydration by the sense of touch. Two signs of dehydration are the loss of elasticity in the skin and dry and sticky mucous membranes (gums) in the mouth.

An environmental relative humidity of 55 to 65 percent is adequate to prevent drying of the skin in a normal newborn puppy. However, a relative humidity of 85 to 90 percent is more effective in maintaining puppies if they are small and weak.

Caution: The environmental temperature should not exceed 90ºF (32.2ºC) when high humidity is provided. A temperature of 95ºF (35.0ºC) coupled with relative humidity of 95 percent can lead to respiratory distress.

Hypoglycemia

Signs of hypoglycemia (abnormal decrease of sugar in the blood) are severe depression, muscle twitching and sometimes convulsions. If a puppy shows signs of hypoglycemia, a solution containing glucose will have to be administered. A few drops of corn syrup on the tongue can be life-saving.

What do I feed my orphaned puppy?

Total nutrition for the newborn orphans must be supplied by a milk replacer until the puppies are about three weeks of age. At this age, the puppies are ready to start nibbling moistened solid food.

Preferred diets:

1. A commercial puppy milk replacer

2. For short-term emergencies:

l cup of milk

l tablespoon corn oil

l pinch of salt

3 egg yolks (no whites)

Blend mixture uniformly

Is the temperature of the food important?

Since the newborn may have trouble generating enough heat to maintain its body temperature, the milk replacer should be warmed to 95o to 100o F (35.0 to 37.8° ) for the best results. Testing the milk replacer's temperature on one's forearm (as for babies) is generally accurate enough. The milk replacer should be about the same temperature as one's skin or slightly warmer. As the puppies grow older, the milk replacer can be fed at room temperature.

How do I feed my puppy?

Spoon feeding is slow and requires great patience. Each spoonful must be slowly "poured" into the puppy's mouth to prevent liquids from entering the lungs. The puppy's head must not be elevated, or the lungs may fill with fluids. Newborn puppies usually do not have a well-developed gag reflex to signal this.

Dropper feeding accomplishes the same result as spoon feeding but is somewhat cleaner and generally speedier.

Baby bottles made for puppies can be used quite successfully in most situations. The size of the hole in the nipple is critical for success. If the bottle is turned upside down and milk replacer drips from the nipple, the hole is too large. Use of this nipple may cause drowning of the puppy. If the bottle is turned upside down and milk replacer comes out only after considerable squeezing of the bottle, the hole is too small. Use of this nipple will result in the puppy becoming discouraged and refusing to nurse. The hole is the proper size if the bottle is turned upside down and milk replacer drips from the nipple with minimal squeezing of the bottle. If you are having trouble enlarging the hole, heat a needle with a match and push it through the nipple several times.

Tube feeding is the easiest, cleanest and most efficient method of hand feeding. However, it requires proper equipment and technique to prevent putting milk replacer into the puppy's lungs. If bottle feeding is not successful, we will supply the equipment and demonstrate the proper technique. This is not a difficult procedure, so do not hesitate to ask about it if it is needed.

When and how much do I feed?

Commercial milk replacers have directions on their labels for proper amounts to feed. It is necessary for the puppy's weight to be obtained properly in ounces or grams. The amounts on the labels are based on the puppy getting only the milk replacer. The amounts given are also for a 24 hour period. That quantity should be divided by the number of feedings per 24 hours. Four meals, equally spaced during a 24 hour period, are ample for feeding a puppy when adequate nutrients are provided. Six or more feedings may be necessary if the puppy is small or weak. Hand feeding can generally be ended by the third week and certainly by the fourth. By this time the puppy can consume food, free-choice, from a dish (see below).

How do I get the puppy to urinate and defecate?

The puppy's genital area must be stimulated after feeding to cause urination and defecation. The genital area should be massaged with a moist cloth or cotton ball to stimulate action. This cleaning should continue during the first two weeks. If this procedure is not followed, the puppy may become constipated.

When does the puppy start to eat from a bowl?

By three weeks, the puppy can start to eat food from the dish along with the milk replacer. A gruel can be made by thoroughly mixing a puppy food (canned or dry) with the milk replacer to reach the consistency of a thick milk shake. The mixture should not be too thick at first or the puppy will not consume very much. As the consumption of food increases, the amount of milk replacer can be gradually decreased.

By four to four and one-half weeks, the orphaned puppy can consume enough moistened solid food to meet its needs.

It is better to avoid starting a puppy on a baby food regimen. This creates extra work and can also create a finicky eater. Many such foods will not meet the nutritional needs of a growing puppy.

Should my puppy be treated for worms?

We routinely treat puppies for worms at three and six weeks of age. Depending on the parasite load of the puppy and potential re-exposure to parasites, additional dewormings may be recommended. We need to see the puppy at the appropriate ages so that it can be accurately weighed.

When is the first vaccination given?

The first vaccination is normally given to puppies at 6-8 weeks of age. However, if your puppy did not nurse from its mother during the first 2-3 days after birth, there will be no protective immunity passed to it. If that is the case, the first vaccination should be given at about 2-3 weeks of age.


Day Six 8/8/2003


The pup's faces look like wrinkled old men. Eyes and ears are still shut.


Green collar liver boy is the smallest pup in the litter. Green collar black boy is the largest.

Black boy weighs just under 2 lbs, and Liver boy is just over 18 oz. Liver boy is very frisky and vocal at this point. He nurses well, and seems content after. I always think a difference in pups like this may be caused by the different rates of fertilization. Seger was bred three times for this litter. Some of the pups may have been conceived from the first fertilization, and some from the last breeding.

Canine Semen can live for a week inside the bitch. The bitch has a fertilization window of approximately 72 hrs. So some pups can come from fertilization within the first part of that window, and some from later. So if you think about it, there can be a few days in age of the pups, even though they were born on the same day.

This is how you can get more than one *Daddy* for the same litter if you don't watch your bitch after you breed her!

Multiple-Sired Litters are something that was just discussed on one of the Curly Bulletin Boards. The pros and cons of doing this type of breeding on purpose.

With DNA testing of the three parents, and all the offspring, you would be able to individually register each pup with the correct sire. This has been talked about as a way to optimize breeding a bitch. If you had an older bitch, who you wanted to only get one more litter out of, but could not decide which of two different studs to use, this would be an option. (an expensive option. The dam, each sire and all of the pups must have DNA ($40 each) on file and the breeder must also pay a $200.00 processing fee.) But if it meant bringing your breeding program to the next level, it would be worth it.

Morning chores start out the same.

The whelping box is tipped up, the frame cleaned with a mixture of clorox and water. New papers are put down, and a new fake fur liner is tucked under the bottom. Once the frame is dry, it is put back in place.


Then the pups are put back in


And Seger comes back to check them all out!

Other things that need to be done now:
I just emailed the AKC for a litter registration application so I can start the paperwork part of it. I don't do this ahead of time, since I think it would jinx me! ;-)

I also ordered puppy shots through one of the wholesale dog catalogs. I usually give a puppy combo shot at 6 1/2 weeks, so the pups are due for next shots when they go home. This prompts the new owners to get the pup in for a well puppy check up within a few days. But this time, I ordered the early parvo shot as well.

I have had two breeder friends in separate breeds have pups come down with Parvo this year. Both were extra careful with the pups. Super clean, limited visitors, didn't take the pups out of the environment. (you sometimes see breeders take whole litters of unvaccinated pups to show sites with them!) These breeders took all cautions, and still pups got sick with the virus. So this year, I'm going to give a parvo shot at 5 1/2 weeks, then the combo shot at 6 1/2 weeks.


Parvo usually hits puppies but older dogs can be susceptible. Puppies usually become sick sometime after five to six weeks of age, the time when the antibodies, from the mother’s colostrums (first milk) wear off. But pups can’t produce antibodies in response to to vaccines until maternal antibodies drop below protective levels. This creates a window of susceptibility during which maternal-antibody levels are high enough to neutralize the vaccine but too low to protect against infection.

Parvo virus is highly contagious. It can be spread through saliva, feces and nose-to-nose contact. An example of the virulence of the disease can be seen, by looking at kennels, which allow prospective puppy buyers in. These buyers may check out several kennels in one day, never informing the owners of a litter, that they have looked at and handled other pups. If they inadvertently handled a contagious puppy at the first kennel stop of the day, the prospective buyer can then carry the disease on their hands and clothing to each kennel seen afterwards. It doesn’t matter if they see one or twenty in a day. All are infected. Meter readers and repairmen can walk through a contaminated area in one yard and carry the infection to all the yards he visits afterwards.

Parvo virus can remain viable in the environment up to six months and there is little an owner can do to eradicate it from the yard. Interiors can be washed with a strong bleach solution to cleanse the home.

One of my setters was a parvo survivor. Once over the symptoms of the acute disease, he never had any problems.

A site I found while looking up Parvo information if for a product called PARVAID . Has anyone heard of or used this?


Day Seven 8/9/2003


Last day of our first week!

Here you see the gang sleeping in a pile under one of the pig rails.

The pups are starting to get up on their wobbly legs more. They teeter in a semi-walking, part crawling motion, then tip over and roll. They are more fun to watch now. It is warm enough that I can turn off the heat lamp for most of the day.



New litter collars are put on. These are the velcro kind I used with my last litter. They hold up better than the paper collars. You can use all sorts of things to mark the pups. The velcro collars are more expensive than I remembered! They are supposed to be reusable. But I don't have many from last litter that I can salvage. Once the pups start eating, and playing in their food, the collars are pretty grimy, even after a good cleaning.



On to Week Two!












SoftMaple Curly Coated Retrievers
Mark and Cathy Lewandowski
8282 Soft Maple Road
Croghan New York 13327

For information email me at:
softmaple@curlycoat.org


Pictures of the family

Back to the Pedigree

Some socialization and training tips for your pup


Click on book above, or mail a check to:
$19.95 ($5.50 Shipping and Handling)
Cathy Lewandowski
8282 Soft Maple Road
Croghan NY 13327


About the Book

Follow a litter of puppies from birthday until they go to their new homes. The diary contains lots of pictures, tips on puppy rearing, some breed specific information, and lots of information on the care of any breed of dog.

I started doing an on-line puppy diary since many of the people that would be getting one of my pups would not be able to travel here to see the pups. I did not want to put a bunch of cute puppy pictures online, and encourage anyone to have a litter just because they wanted to see cute puppies! Breeding dogs, if done the right way, is a lot of work. Lost sleep and sometimes heartache. It takes a lot of time, effort and money to raise a litter of puppies. Once I started doing The Puppy Diary, I realized I had a captive audience. These people logged on every day to see the pictures, and read what was happening. I used this opportunity to cram as much education into each day as I could. Health, Coat issues, grooming, feeding, socializing, vet care, puppy evaluations, shipping puppies.... you name it! I tried to put it in The Diary. It was suggested that I make it into a book. Well here it is! There are 560 pictures and over 300 pages of living with and watching one litter grow up.

I am sure may conscientious, caring breeders raise litters similar to the way I do. Its is a good look into the time, money, commitment it takes to bring up a litter of pups. Some of the things that go on behind the scenes, that the eventual puppies owners (family), never realize go into the litter. Enjoy my litter as I see them. Day to day

Contents

Chapter One (Week One) ... Page 1

Seger comes into season
Happy Birthday!
Removing the Dewclaws
Start of the Bio Sensor program

Chapter Two (Week Two) ... Page 48
Coat issues.
Tail Gland Hyperplasia
Do Curlies Shed?

Chapter Three (Week Three) ... Page 94
End of Bio Sensor Exercises
Worming The puppies
Eyes are open
First pup escapes from the box

Chapter Four (Week Four) ... Page 130
Weaning. The great food fight!
Introduction to the puppy play room
Shark Cage

Chapter Five (Week Five) ... Page 156
Field dog? Show Dog? CPE?
Happy Mothers Day!
First Stacked pictures

Chapter Six (Week Six) ... Page 195
Toys! Toys! Toys!
What’s In A Name?
Kids and Dogs
Introduction to Wings

Chapter Seven (Week Seven) ... Page 236
About Puppies and Retrieving
Socialize your puppy
First Shots & Vet Visit
Splish Splash, first bath!

Chapter Eight (Week Eight) ... Page 286
Shape up or ship out!
Requirements to ship puppies
See all the pups!


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