Saturday 2/2/02
Up and out at 0700. Thought
we'd have to face high winds but that never happened. Called Vernon and
Sharon just before the first bridge. They were waving from their dock as
we got through the bridge. It was good to see them, even if it was through
binoculars. Knew we'd need fuel, since we couldn't get it when we stopped
last night. Checked the book and decided to try the Bridge Tender Village
Marina. Again, the dock master was waiting on the dock to take the line
and get us fueled up. Throughout the entire trip, we were deeply
appreciative of the marinas that went out of their way to make our stops
pleasant. On the other hand, we have nothing but disgust for those that
didn't have the courtesy to come out of their warm shacks for anything except to
take our money. And believe me, we made notes of both in our book.
We hit the Cape Fear
River at 12:30. What a blast. Lots of boats, and I mean BIG boats,
or I should say ships. We had the wind and current on our stern and made 62 miles today.
We could have done better but we got held up by bridges. We got to our
mark at 5:00, Hughes Marina. We weren't quite sure where the marina was so
we tied up at a bulkhead and walked to the only building we saw. Turned
out, that was
Hughes and they gave us directions to the slip we would use, warning us about
the shallow water on the right. As we were pulling away from the bulkhead,
a small boat came around us. When we turned into the narrow canal that
lead to the slip, we were hit with a strong current and Hambone had to do some
maneuvering. To make matters worse, that little boat had pulled into our
slip. As Hambone was fighting and cussing, I was yelling at the guy to
move his boat. Hambone almost bought a couple of brand new Hondas, trying
to keep from running aground and fighting the current all the way. As mad
as I was, I have to admit the guy saw right away what was happening and
moved real fast to get his boat out of the way so we could dock. Hambone
showed his skill that day. I don't know how he managed to keep from
hitting something. It was the most amazing thing I had seen, up to this
point.
Let me tell you how strong the current was.
As we got about 3/4 of the way into the slip, the boat stopped dead. We
thought we had hit bottom, even though the bottom machine said we had 8 feet of
water. Hambone took his trusty manual depth finder out and couldn't feel
the bottom so that wasn't it. We got off and tried to pull it further into
the slip but it wouldn't budge. So we tied up where we were and went for a
drink. Met the couple from that little boat in the bar, Steve and Julia.
Even though they probably didn't hear us, we felt kind of bad that we had cussed them out, so we bought them a beer.
They were nice people and had made the trip to Florida, down the ICW before.
They gave us some tips and hints about what was ahead of us. All in all, a
good night.
Sunday 2/3/03
Shoved off at 0730. We had to wait an extra 30
minutes for the tide to change and ease up on the boat. But it gave us the
opportunity to eat breakfast at the marina restaurant. We had a great day, went
through the Rock Pile with no problems and the Waccamaw River was great to
navigate. Deep water and easy going. It was overcast and a little chilly but
no wind and the current was with us. We anchored up behind Butler Island, ahead of
schedule. We hope to make Charleston tomorrow and see Hambone’s brother and
sister-in-law, Butch and Millie.
Monday 2/4/02
Up at 0530 to get an early start to Charleston. The
engine would not start. We hooked up the charger and after 45 minutes, the
charger showed a full charge but the engine still wouldn’t turn over. We
took apart the motor box to get a better look at the starter. Hambone
broke out a hammer and I wondered if he was going to take out his frustrations
on the motor but he gave the starter a couple of taps, hit the start button and
she fired right up. I’ve never seen that trick before but I got a lesson
that day. Looks like we need to replace the starter when we get home.
We had a great day,
the current and wind on our stern. We averaged 10 mph in the first 3 hours then
the wind kicked up. Slowed us up a bit but we still averaged about 7 mph all day. We had arranged to
meet Butch and Millie at the Toler Cove Marina. The book and charts showed that
it was on the right, just past a bridge.
I know I've mentioned "the book" a couple of times, so I
guess I should explain what I'm talking about. Before we left, I bought a
book called The Intracoastal Waterway (Norfolk to Miami), A Cockpit Cruising
Handbook. What a great book. It gives you a mile by mile breakdown
of everything you'll see on the water. All the hazards, bridges, anchor
spots, and marinas. It was invaluable to us and I highly recommend it to
anyone making the trip. The authors are Jan & Bill Moeller. I got
the fourth edition and made notes in it of things that were different.
There's probably a fifth edition out by now. Anyway, back to the story.
The last two hours of running were
pretty nasty. There were crab pots everywhere. This has become one of my pet
peeves. Crab pots are not supposed to be in the channel but we saw them all the
way down. We had to be alert, both of us watching. We almost got a couple but
Hambone managed to avoid them. Thank God. It was a little too cold to be
diving and unwrapping line from the prop. We reached Charleston and started
looking for the marina entrance. We passed under the Ben Sawyer Highway Bridge and heard someone
whistling. We looked up and there was Butch, taking pictures of us and pointing
the way. As we turned in, we immediately thought we might be in the wrong
place. There were condos all along the water, with private boat slips. We
started
looking for a place to turn around and as we came around the bend, there
was the marina dock, with Butch waiting for us. The dock master was with him,
waiting to take our line and tie us up. And it wasn’t a minute too soon because
the wind started to really blow. We fueled up and heard those beautiful words
again, “Leave her where she is.” We went off to Butch and Millie’s hotel for a
hot shower and then to supper. It was a great visit and so special that they
included us in their second honeymoon trip. Back at the boat and in the sack by 8:30. Hoping
the wind dies down so we can get going in the morning. 330 miles to home. 6
days max, if we only log the minimum each day, so we’re looking at Sunday
arrival.
Tuesday 2/5/02
Off at 0730. Our latest start time so far. We were
a little worried that the wind would keep us from leaving but it had calmed
down. We headed into Charleston harbor. No one warned us about how big it is.
I’ve never seen so many markers and trying to pick ours out was not easy. I missed
it the first time and we were all turned around. Finally, Hambone noticed that
the city was on the wrong side of the boat so we just stopped and regrouped. I
studied the charts and finally figured out where we were and how to get back on
track. We lost about 30 minutes because of my mistake. I felt so bad. My main
responsibility was to work the charts and here I almost sent us off in the wrong
direction. But Hambone was great. He didn’t get mad, no “monkey dance”. He
said that we didn’t run aground, so everything was fine. After that, we had an easy day, no
high winds. Our plan was to anchor at mile marker 516 but when we got there, we didn’t
want to stop that early, so we checked the book and charts and headed to Bull
River.
We
dropped anchor about 5:00 p.m. We really could have gone further but we
didn’t see any safe anchor spots. We hope to get a good day in tomorrow.
The weather has been cold and clear. We should make Savannah tomorrow and then, 3 more days to
home.
Wednesday 2/6/02
Had a good day. It was rainy but fairly calm. We
had lots of dolphin come to the boat. They probably thought they could ride the
bow wake. Boy, were they disappointed. Our plan was to stop at the Palmer
Johnson Marina but we couldn’t raise them on the radio. The Savannah Bend
Marina answered our call so we went there instead. The dockhand was on the
dock, waiting to grab our lines. I’ve said several times what a good feeling
that is. I don’t know if I can explain how it feels. After 9 or 10 hours of
straight running, you’re tired and cold and here is someone to take the line
and tie the boat up. It’s hard to describe. And this marina was familiar to
us. We had come to Savannah about 4 years ago with my old boss, Julian, to pick
up a sailboat he had bought. We volunteered to help him bring it home. In
fact, I can blame Julian for showing me a whole different side of boats and
fueling my love of them. Hambone has always loved them but I didn’t have much
exposure to them until we spent 3 days on the Star, helping Julian bring it
home. Getting to watch the sun go down while sitting on the boat, with supper
cooking and a drink in my hand. What a peaceful feeling and I wanted to do it
again and again. Anyway, back to the story. The last time we were here, we ate
at the Savannah Bend Restaurant. We were looking forward to doing that again
after we got a hot shower, and we took nice, long ones. Their restaurant had
closed down but we walked across the field to a place called Despositos for supper
and a couple of beers. We ordered some steamed oysters and they were so good
that we ordered another dozen after we ate our dinners. Back to the boat by
7:00. The rain was gently hitting the roof but we were snug inside. What a
great feeling. Tomorrow, we plan to hang on the hook and then Friday, we should
make Fernandina Beach.
Thursday 2/7/02
Woke to rain but no wind. We got a late start,
waiting for the visibility to improve. The whole day was rainy and then the
wind started blowing. We entered Sapelo Sound and the day went downhill. I had
my eyes peeled for the channel markers and I thought I had them in my sights
until Hambone noticed that the depth was getting shallower and we were seeing
more crab pots. Not only that but the weather was getting worse. Now
we had the
wind on our bow and the current on our stern. This made for some pretty high
waves. Lorrie was doing some rocking and rolling. She’d fall down between
two
waves and shudder from bow to stern. This being our first trip, we weren’t too
sure how she would hold together. Hambone started thinking we should turn back
but we were over half way across. Then he spots a tugboat, way over to our
right. You could bet that he was in the channel so that meant we weren’t. As I
looked in the direction of the tug with the binoculars, I saw the markers. We
were way off course!! Hambone headed toward the tug and the depth started to
get deeper. After we got back in the channel, I looked ahead and saw the exit
leading out of the sound. Once again, someone was watching over us and we made
it to our anchor spot at New Teakettle Creek. The current was ripping so we put the big plow anchor
out and hoped it held. If the weather improves, we might make Fernandina
tomorrow night. If not, another night, swinging on the hook.
Friday 2/8/02
Hambone woke me up about 2:00 am. The wind had let
up and the sky was so clear that we could see every star. It should be a good
day. Up at 0600, clear and calm. We pulled anchor at first light and headed
out. What a great day. We crossed 3 sounds and no problems. The fun really
started in Cumberland Sound, which is Kings Bay. What a place that is. We got
passed by two huge tugs but they slowed down so they wouldn’t swamp us. We saw
them again, waiting at the inlet, as we turned for Fernandina. Then we saw them
coming back in, escorting a submarine. The patrol boats were out, ordering
everyone to leave the area. Luckily, we were on the south side of the sound so
we kept going toward Fernandina. We docked at 5:05 and tied up for the night.
Went to supper at the Florida House Inn. We had been there before. They
have boarding house style dining. Wonderful food. Then it was off to the
Palace for a couple of drinks and some blues. It was a great night to top off a
great day. One more day to go. Tomorrow we'll be home.
Saturday 2/9/02
This time we did sleep in until 0700 but still
pulled away
from the dock at 0720, heading home. We hit the St. Johns River at 10:35. We
ran into a sailboat race around Julington Creek area. What a hassle that was.
Sailboats have the right of way, if they are under sail. Well, the Lorrie
doesn’t move too much faster than they do, probably slower than some, so it was
hard staying out of their way and dodging the crab pots. But we didn’t really
mind, we were too close to home. We pulled into our slip at 5:00 p.m.
It was
wonderful to be home but a little sad too. We had had a great adventure and would
miss the special time we spent on the water but we couldn’t wait to get started
on the renovations. The Lorrie Lynn was officially retired and now the work
starts, to turn her into a St. Johns River and Black Creek party boat.
So that’s the end of our journey down the ICW. Before I
close, I have to thank some people. Without them, this trip might not have
been possible or at least not as much fun.
To Julian, for getting me hooked on boat living, opening up
his storage shed and making sure we had some very important items with us, like
the heavy plow anchor, which made us feel safe and secure when we swung on the
hook, the dingy and motor that got us out of a couple of jams and the exposure
suit, which we didn’t have to use, thank the lord.
To Danny, who gave up a holiday with his family to come
with us on the search for Hambone's dream boat.
To Richard, who also made sure we had a good anchor and who
sent the word out to our old dive buddies so they could give us a great sendoff.
To those dive buddies Becky, Al, Linda, Kenny, Monroe, Munk,
Jonathan and Debbie, who showed up to wish us well.
To our good friend Thomas, who lent his time and muscle to
get us loaded, not to mention the tip about where to stop the first night.
To mine and Hambone’s family, and my best friend Paula &
Frank, who didn’t quite understand why we wanted to do something like this but
who supported us anyway.
And to Scottie, who was always there, and still is,
whenever we get a wild idea, ready to help out and make the dream a reality.
We have been truly blessed with good friends and family.
We thank them all.