Engine
Overview

Modifications under the hood primarily include the 1988 rebuilt Nissan V6 engine, a ARB air compressor, and numerous relay switches for electrical components added since the truck was purchased.

The truck was bought new in 1988.  It was a Standard E, regular bed.  The engine was a V-6, 3.0 liter, throttle body injected(VG30i).  The 1988 Nissan Hardbody had two engines available.  A 4-cylinder and a V-6.  The V-6 for this year was throttle body injected, using two fuel injectors.  Basically, a throttle body is a electronic carburetor that uses fuel injectors.  New, the engine made 145hp and 165 torque.  Turning 215/15 tires on small steel wheels, the truck had plenty of pulling power.  It also spun tires way to easy!  By 1990, I had 31x10.50 tires on Nissan alloy wheels (7x15JJ) off a wrecked Pathfinder. At some point, a K&N reusable air filter was added to keep the air flowing when things get dirty.

 
V-6 Engine
In 1997, I had a great idea.  Have the engine rebuilt to get more power and insure the truck would run another 100,000 miles.  I was also concerned because driving out West, the truck would burn a half a quart of oil every other time I filled up.  Since you don't get both, I wanted more torque gain then horse power.  And the only thing more important than either of those, reliability.  I never want a vehicle to totally fail on me miles from nowhere.  Places so rugged, you couldn't afford to get the truck out.

I remember from reading a Four Wheeler article on a Pathfinder that Nissan Performance had two cams available for my truck.  I also knew headers were available.  After 
talking with a friend at Nissan(Roanoke, VA) Terry Walters was recommended as the best.  I met with Terry and found him to be very confident.  No one that I could find in the valley had rebuilt a Nissan engine before, including Terry.  As with any Nissan Truck, its hard to find anyone that has done big modifications.  Terry mostly dealt with Chevy and Ford engines.  However, I felt assured he'd do the job right.  I knew it would cost more but since no one else had done it before, might as go with the best.  Once he had the engine apart, I was surprised to learn the engine's wear was comparable to one that had around 30,000 miles on it.  For one that had around 112,000 miles, it was in good shape.  Or maybe the older Ford and Chevy engines didn't hold up as well.

V-6 (VG30) High Performance Cams

European-spec
R: 13001-07P80
L: 13061-07P80
  • Same lift as OE cams at 0.392-inches
  • Duration increased by 12-degrees to 264-degrees
Isky Cam
99996-V256H
  • 0.425-inch valve lift
  • 202-degrees at 0.050 lift
  • 256-degree duration


The parts and stats that would interest most people are:

  • Entire VG30i engine rebuilt

  • Nissan High Performance Cams

  • Bored out 0.020"

  • Nissan larger diameter pistons

  • 3-angle valve job

  • Surface heads

  • Balance Assembly

  • Headers

  • Front and Rear Ring & Pinion gears changed

Labor Operations

DESCRIPTION AMOUNT (U.S. $)
3-Angle Valve Job 198.00
Surface Heads 49.50
Pressure Check Heads 52.80
Vat Block 39.60
Replace Freeze Plugs 19.80
Bore Block 0.020" 72.60
Check alignment Bore 33.00
Magnaflux Crank 23.10
Polish Crank 26.40
Balance Assembly 115.50
Recondition 6 Rods, W/Arp Bolts 95.70
Press Off & On Pistons 39.60
Disassemble Engine 132.00
Assemble Engine 396.00
Remove & Replace Engine 595.00
Clean & Test Radiator 52.80
Setup Front & Rear Ring & Pinion Gears; Change Seals 450.00
Hook Up Exhaust System 58.00
Freight On Parts 78.25
Hazardous Waste Disposal 15.00

 

Parts

Most of the part numbers(below) reference the manufacturers part number and may help someone locate a part for their V6 engine.

PART DESCRIPTION PART NUMBER QUALITY

AMOUNT
(U.S. $)
Valve Springs VS-876 12 67.92
Valve Springs VS-1446 12 76.08
Rocker Arms R-922 12 235.68
Rod Bearings 6-1845CP STD 1 44.56
Main Bearings MS1951P STD 1 59.39
Rings E525KC .50MM 1 95.20
Gasket Set 260-1498 1 255.47
Cam Set 99996-V256H 1 540.79
Lifters HT2198 12 325.92
Belt Tensioner 222-124BT 1 37.90
Timing Belt 22-104 1 18.12
Pistons A2010-10G03 6 352.56
Oil Pump 224-41956 1 197.96
ARP Rod Bolts 202-6003 1 58.49
Oil Oil 5 8.00
Dist. Cap C651 1 25.26
Rotor Button D632 1 6.83
Ignition Wires CH8649 1 59.93
PCV Valve PCV 303 1 5.29
Oil Pressure Switch S4018 1 5.95
Water Temp Switch WT607 1 9.21
Thermostat 21200-V5015 1 14.25
Belt 17370 1 9.76
Belt 17570 1 12.93
Belt 9360 1 9.65
Hose 70982 1 6.44
Hose 71353 1 7.53
Hose 71354 1 7.14
Hose 87675 1 7.22
Hose 80402  1 8.11
Hose 18201 1 3.50
Spark Plugs 71 6 12.06
Air Filter CA3497 1 6.14
Oil Filter PH3682 1 5.33
Gas Filter G7404 1 13.49
Water Pump FP1851 1 107.92
Anti-Freeze COOL 2 13.98
Gear Oil AMZOIL 1 35.00
Front Pinion Seal 1181 1 3.42
Front Axle Seal L 712020 1 9.48
Front Axle Seal R 223542 1 5.32
Rear Axle Seal 43252-01G00 2 12.34
Rear Pinion Seal 38189-C7000 1 6.48
Conclusion

The first time I started my truck after the rebuild, I could tell it ran much smoother and didn't vibrate back and forth.  I was easy on the throttle at first but started stepping on it a little after the first oil change.  I only put a few hundred miles, if that much, before changing the oil the first time.  Overall it felt like it had more horse power and torque, but with the ring & pinion gear change, it was much harder to tell.  How much of what I was feeling was a result of the gears changing?  The job that I had asked of Terry Walters was complete.  The truck had more horsepower, but more important to me, more torque.  It was geared better for rock crawling, thus giving me a better chance than before when wheeling in Moab, Utah or some other rough place.

Do I recommend others take this route?  No.  Is it worth $5,000 to you?  Save the money, change the ring & pinion gears, and buy a old beat up jeep or Toyota if you want to have a engine rebuilt.  We got the short end of the stick when it comes to the aftermarket.  Part of the blame should go to Nissan Performance and the outrages prices they charge for much needed parts!  For example, R&P gears!  If anyone knows why companies didn't make these years ago, let me in on it!

 

Exhaust
Headers

Thorley headers cost more but I found the cost to be worth it.  They will last and won't flake apart.  Underneath, they fit closer to the vehicle than the last cheap pair of headers I had.  Despite the closer fit, Thorley headers can still be damaged easier than the Nissan stock exhaust.  You should give this consideration if the stock Nissan manifold isn't giving you trouble.   On March 9, 2000, I called the parts place that I bought the first and cheap pair of header from.  The only ones they sell right now are Pace Setters.  That might have been the first brand I had.  On Pace Setters behalf, read the paragraph below about wrapping headers.
As the picture shows, the pipe that connects both sides of the headers is more exposed than the stock exhaust.  This puts it at risk to rock damage and whenever the vehicle is bottomed out.  They are louder but not enough to worry about.  
One important thing to consider is the extra heat allowed to escape into the engine area due to the headers.  Brake lines and electrical wires are among many components I will be shielding shortly from this heat.  In time, thermal damage will likely occur to these and they will become brittle and will need to be replaced. 

Overall, Thorley's are thicker, heavier, and I suspect they will last as long as I have my truck.

Incase you need to order a replacement gasket (8-29-01update) or Thorley Headers, try:
California High Performance:  (800) 350-7110
    gasket part number:  9464p   [passenger's side]  $19.95
                                    9464d   [driver's side]         $19.95

Wrapping The Headers

I heavily advise against this.  Due to the intense amount of heat in the engine compartment, I decided to wrap the headers with a high performance wrap.  The wrap reminds me of a fire hose.  You wet the wrap when putting it on.  This is suppose to help minimize the amount of fiberglass like fibers that get on your skin working with this material.  Its irritating and causes your arms to itch.  It was difficult to do the job right with the header on the truck, but when finished, it looked great.  And it helped keep in radiating heat.   However, within 2 months the headers started falling apart.  A small hole first appeared and the exhaust blew through the wrap.  This was patched and within 1 week the hole grew so large it couldn't be contained.  Numerous other holes appeared.  The headers were heating up so much because of the wrap, the headers were disintegrating.  I believe the headers were Pace Setters and made out of aluminum.  They might have been made out of a thin steel.  I do remember thinking how light the box was when I picked them up from the parts place.  When I unwrapped the headers, in hopes that allowing the heat to escape will postpone more holes, flakes of the headers fell off everywhere.  I recommend stay away from any wrap unless you buy new headers monthly.  After this experience, I'm not interested in coating them either. 
 



Muffler & Pipe

I'm not sure but I believe the muffler and pipe I have are manufactured by Dynomax.  This is the second set of these I have had and both were purchased from RV Performance Connection.  They lasted about as long as a set of aluminum exhaust can. While I didn't have to worry about rust, aluminum still oxidizes and becomes brittle over time.  They won't last as long as stainless steel but I find them satisfactory for the price.  They do give the truck a small but stronger sound over the stock exhaust.  I think the performance gain is around 7%.  To contact RV Performance to inquire about mufflers for Nissan, call 1-800-875-2112.  They also list Thorley headers as a product.