Balancer Lever Replacement Outline|
Set up: much easier if you can drain the oil. It can be done on the side stand, but easier on a center stand or lift. It helps to have clean newspaper or cardboard to set parts on, and paper towels, solvent, etc. Have the factory manual handy, and VERIFY EVERYTHING AS YOU GO!
If you use the "lean the bike to the right method, it helps a lot to have a long flexble shaft magnet before you start. That way things won't fall down in the case, and you won't need to use the magnet to fish them out. :-)
Read the directions all the way through before starting. YOU NEED TO HAVE THE FACTORY MANUAL FOR YOUR BIKE, TOO! CONSULT IT OFTEN, DOUBLE CHECK EVERY THING AS YOU GO!
Put the bike up on the lift, or center stand, if you have one.
Drain the oil, unless you are leaning the bike to the right. Put the plug back in after draining!
Remove the bash/skid plate. If you have an aftermarket plate that is difficult to remove, you will need to at least lower the left side enough to remove the side cases. Factory plate use 10mm socket, ratchet, remove 3 bolts. Don't lose the spacers that keep the plastic from being crushed.
Remove the countershaft sprocket cover. Use 10mm socket, extension, ratchet. Remove 3 bolts.
Pull the neutral wire off the stud in the case. Use fingers or pliers, gently.
Wiggle neutral wire and harness for stator out of the channel in the case, ahead of the countershaft sprocket.
Remove the shift lever. Use 10mm open or box end wrench. Hint: mark where it lines up on the outer case, before you take it off. Some people find it easier to do if you remove one bolt in the footpeg bracket, and loosen the other one, so it can swing out of the way. If you don't have highway pegs, you will need to re--install the bolts to use as a rest for the rotor holder, later.
Loosen the bolts around the outer left side case. Hint: You can save time by just breaking the bolts loose with an 8mm socket, then use a cordless drill with an 8mm (or 5/16) driver to spin them the rest of the way out. Carefully pull the outer case straight out - you will feel the magnetic pull from the stator. You also need to be aware of the wiring harness leading to this case - the wires you wiggled out of the case previously. DO NOT remove the rubber plug and wiring harness from the left side case. You just need enough play to get this case out of the way. I like to use a piece of #10 or #12 wire looped around the right side footpeg, then over the seat, to hang the case just out of the way above the left side footpeg, or a bungee cord. Hint: If you carefully remove the case, pulling it straight out, the gasket is more likely to be re-usable.
Remove the 2 sets cluster gears that are now visible upper right. Notice which set goes where, before you lay them down on a clean surface. (all is not lost if you forget - they will only go back in 1 way) There are inner and outer washers for each gear set. One of the sets is fixed. The other set has 2 needle bearings inside it, as well as the inner and outer washer. The pin it rides on comes out of the case, easily. It does not matter which end of the pin goes into the case first.
You now use the rotor holder wrench, 19mm socket (good quality), and a 18" or longer breaker. Fit the rotor holder to the rotor, and rotate it around so it's stopped by the footpegs, or hiway pegs. Then put the 19mm socket and breaker bar on the rotor bolt. Loosen and remove the rotor bolt, by turning it counter-clockwise. It may take some effort, as it was supposed to be torqued to 130 ft/lbs.
Move the holder to the other side of whatever peg you used to stop the holder before. Grease or oil the threads and end of the rotor puller. Screw it into the rotor until it stops against the end of the crank. Use the breaker bar and a 22mm, or 7/8" socket to break the rotor loose from the crank. HINT: after you break the rotor loose, unscrew the puller. Keep the rotor pushed against the crank by hand, and turn it so the key slot in the rotor is close to straight up.
CAREFULLY remove the rotor. Watch for the key in the crank, that locates the rotor. If all the parts come loose, including the starter gear, the key may come out and be inside this assembly. From outside to inside, here is the list of parts that can be removed, or come loose, all the way back to the chain sprocket on the crank: rotor, key, thin washer, starter gear, 2 thick washers. Try not to drop parts into the engine. Usually, the 2 thick washers will stay on the crank. You can stuff rags or paper towels into the openings in the bottom of the engine. It's not the end of the world if you do. Use a flexible magnet to fish them out. You can get one at True Value. Use a 8mm socket and ratchet to remove the balancer adjustment bolt and washer (if you have a pre '96, no washer yet). Remove the balancer adjustment lever from the eccentric shaft.
Use the 8mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the bolts holding the inner case (called generator case cover by Kawasaki). Don't forget the bolt that is in the center of the case, where the 2 cluster gears for the starter were. This bolt is slightly shorter than the others, so keep it separate. Remove this case. Often the case sticks around the starter motor, it helps to have a padded pliers handle to gently pop it loose. The other place it tries to stick is around the balancer eccentric shaft. Just wiggle the case straight out using a little finesse. Sometimes I keep a thumb on the shaft to keep it in place, and provide leverage as I wiggle the case off. Hint: as above, if you can keep the case fairly straight as you remove it, the gasket is more likely to be re-usable.
You can now remove and replace the balancer adjustment spring. Be sure to keep the eccentric balancer shaft assembly pushed back into the case as you handle these parts.
Keep everything clean as you put it all back together.
Install the inner case. If you think you need it, put a little sealer on the case surfaces as you re-assemble. Carefully push it onto the starter and balancer eccentric shaft. It helps to have the 2 locating dowels pins in the engine cases. If you are putting a new gasket here, put it on the engine cases, too. The dowel pins will help it stay aligned. Clean the bolts of any corrosion before installing them. Remember the short bolt goes up by the starter. Torque them to 69 in/lbs.
Put the new, improved balancer lever on the eccentric shaft. Run the adjuster bolt and washer in until it touches, then back off a turn (if you have the early bike, you should install the later bolt with washer - this will spread out the pressure on the adjustment lever).
Be sure the 2 thick washers are on the crank, lightly oiled. Install the starter gear, be sure the crank and starter gear bore are oiled. Install the thin washer on the crank, with oil on it. Centerpunch the side of the key, so it will stay put in the crank, during rotor installation. Install the key into the crank, lightly tapping it down to seat it if necessary. Clean the tapered portion of the crank with a clean paper towel. Clean the mating tapered bore in the rotor with a clean paper towel. Install the rotor - BIG HINT - as you install it onto the crank, rotate the starter gear so you can easily align the rotor, crank, and key. The starter gear will rotate easily one way - clockwise. It's easier than it sounds. You will feel the rotor seat, and align on the crank and key.
Install a new rotor bolt. Tighten it to 85 ft/lbs, using the rotor holder, a 19mm socket, and a torque wrench. Loosen the bolt slightly, then torque to final value. The factory manual says 130 ft/lbs.
Clean the case surfaces, be sure the dowel pins are in one case - inner or outer - life is easier that way. Use gasket sealer if necessary. Install the 2 cluster gear sets for the starter - remember the inner and outer washers. The fixed set - upper - goes in first, the larger gear fits the starter gear teeth. Then install the other set, with the washer inside against the case on the pin, the 2 bearings, the 2 gears, the outer washer. You may need to turn the big starter gear on the crank clockwise to allow the gears to seat. Install the outer case. Spin in the bolts, then torque to 69 in/lbs. Torque the balancer adjustment bolt to 69 in/lbs.
Wiggle the wiring back into the slot in front of the countershaft sprocket. Install the neutral wire to the case. Install the shift lever. Install the countershaft cover. Istall hte rubber cover for the balancer adjustment bolt. Install the skid/bash plate. Pour your favorite oil into the engine.
Remember, this is just a supplement to the factory manual. If you find another way to do this, or something is missing, please let me know so I can update the instructions.
I think you're done!