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A Texan in the Czech Lands |
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by Leigh Darilek Part One--Visiting the Mother County
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This is a view of Prague from Petrin Hill. The castle and Saint Vitus Cathedral are on the left, and in middle (small dome) is St. Mikulas. Photo courtesy of Leigh Darilek. Sitting on a bench in front of the Facultas Philosophica, or Philosophical Faculty, which is the Charles University faculty I attended, I gaze up at Prague castle and St. Vitus Cathedral. It is absolutely lovely, and I never seem to tire of it. Prague means threshold, and, because of her prime location in the heart of Europe, has served as the crossroads for many ancient trade routes. Today, Prague is not only an international city enveloped in breath-taking architecture, but also my home. I think about the events that led me to move to Prague, Czech Republic. Over the course of time, I would like to share some experiences and knowledge that I have picked up in my travels. This could easily range from historical tidbits like the history of St. Jan Nepomuk to crazy adventures and unbelievable finds like the Stromberk discotech or the forest where trees grow horizontally. My first trip to the ‘homeland’ began after I graduated from the University of Texas (UT) at Austin on May 20, 2000. The following day, I was on a plane flying across the Atlantic to Europe. It was my first time out of the States, and my stomach was full of nervous, excited butterflies. The UT Slavic department offers a study abroad course, and I decided to take part in it as a graduation present to myself. I also did not want to go straight from college to a “real job!” My courses included a language class, an art and architecture class, and a film class. My first eight weeks in Europe were more than I ever imagined or could have hoped for. It helps that classes were a pleasure to attend. Every day I could walk through the castle and across Karluv Most to get to school. My classroom window framed the castle. During my daydreaming out of this window, I came to picture Prague as a life-sized pop-up book. All the red-roofed buildings squished together while church steeples and other historical landmarks protruding out above them in layers that felt oddly but pleasantly fairy-tale like.
This is the faculty Leigh Darilek attended. The University was founded April 7, 1348, by Charles IV, then Holy Roman Emperor and King of Bohemia. It is the oldest university in central Europe. Photo courtesy of Leigh Darilek. I stayed in Kolej Komenskeho, a dorm for mainly international students. I met and became part of the “lobby gang,” and soon knew all the cool hangouts in town. I experienced and learned a lot in this lobby. For example, it was here that I saw my first vending machine that sold beer. It was here where in one hour met people from England, Israel, Bahrain, Singapore, Canada, Germany, France, Spain, Greece and Slovakia. Talk about interesting conversations in multiple languages! Our weekend trips were not only historical lessons, but also full of surprises. The 4-day weekends included stops through (in no particular order) Stromberk, Kroměříž, Kutná Hora, Sedlec, České Budějovice, Český Krumlov, Karlštejn and so many small villages in between. Our bus driver was constantly frustrated because our trips were enlighteningly sporadic. Picture a charter bus on the side of a small road with its passengers hanging from the cherry trees, like a scene out of “The Sound of Music.” Or, imagine seeing his eyes bulge and jaw drop as we asked him to take a right along a teeny tiny dirt road because we had “heard” there was a great swimming hole five kilometers down. I also had the hobby of collecting different pivo (beer) glasses, and we would stop at pubs along the road just to get a new glass for me (which I was able to successfully bring back 13 different half-liter glasses). On my own, I traveled to Dedinky, Slovakia, participated in the annual Prague Hog (Harley Davidson) Rally, played in a village football (soccer) match, attended a different church almost every Sunday, and then in my last week in Europe, I traveled through Germany and France with a friend. During this jam-packed week, I visited Heidleberg, Stuttgart, Reims, Paris, and numerous small villages. Just the memory of those eight weeks made my blood boil for more. For another chance to see and experience this beautiful land. I felt so cheated, like eight weeks wasn’t enough time, and I honestly cannot understand how anyone can visit for a week and be satisfied. But, all good things must come to an end. On Bastille Day, I left Paris for Houston. What next? Oh yeah, reality bites, and it bit me hard. I head back to Austin and start the job hunt. I was hot, broke, working part time, trying to get a life after college together while in withdrawal from my magical summer in Praha. It did not take long before I found a good job in the beautiful hills of Austin near Bee Caves. I got my first car - a jeep wrangler, taught aerobics after work or on weekends, and was doing well. Austin is a beautiful city and I was happy to be there. But, I was itching to get back on a plane headed to Europe. I discussed my ideas and intentions on moving back to Prague with my Czech professor. We discussed plans on how I would search for a job other than teaching English, and to immerse myself in the language with hopes of one day speaking fluent Czech. She gave me the golden opportunity I was in search for; that chance to go back. She asked if I would go and help look after her kids during the summer study abroad course. In return, she would assist with my room and board for the first six weeks. Now I had to make a decision. A tough, life-altering decision. I had a good job in Austin, my jeep, my family only an hour’s drive away, a small circle of friends, was teaching aerobics in my spare time, along with other numerous activities. Did I really want to leave this security behind and move to Europe? Start over from scratch? Move without having the security of a job? It was tough, and I encountered turbulence. I prayed many hours about whether or not I should make this move. It felt like a chess game, thinking about all my options and their ramifications. Would I win or lose with this move? Would I fail and come running home with my tail between my legs? I could not make a simple yes or no decision. I had to think ahead, look into the future and weigh all my options. The one and only thing I knew for sure is that if I did not do this, I would always wonder, “What if…?” In other words, constant mind torture. I also believed that I needed to do this even if six months later I was on a plane back to Texas because it did not work out. At least then I couldn’t ask myself over and over and over, “What if…?” The decision was made, and almost exactly one year later, I was on another plane headed across the Atlantic. This time I was just as excited as my first time abroad, but I was also nervous, anxious, and scared beyond belief. The first six weeks were an absolute breeze. Many of the friends I had made last year at Kolej Komenskeho were still around, and it was a great reunion. They were extremely surprised that I was back in town, and also very encouraging. And even now that I have a job and live on the other side of town, whenever I visit, I’m still part of the original lobby gang.
Charles Bridge around 8 p.m. (summer time) from a boat on the Vltava River. Photo courtesy of Leigh Darilek During the days, I looked after my professor’s two sons, playing all day on Petřin Hill, eating ice cream for lunch. Weekends consisted of going on trips across Moravia and Bohemia with the study abroad group. Basically, a vacation. Had I really moved to Prague?! Reality hadn’t hit yet. I was looking for jobs (honest I was), and even put an ad in the Prague Post. But, during the summer many people are on holiday, and my job hunt progressed in extra slow motion. Before I realized it, the study abroad trip was over, and the group was packing up and heading back to Texas. That’s when realization hit that I needed a job. Realization and the nagging of friends, “Hey, Leigh, the word of the day is: J-O-B. Get one!” I needed a job. I needed a place to live (other than the infamous Kolej Komenskeho). I needed an income. A work visa. And everyone was on holiday! I did get nervous. I was scared, and one day called my sister up expressing my worries and how long my small amount of money would last before I had to either teach English or come home. (I have nothing against teaching English, it is just not what I wanted to do in fear of getting stuck in that job and not working towards a field I was genuinely interested in.) As soon as I got off the phone with her, I went to the Internet Café, and by the grace of God, He answered my prayer. I had an email from a guy who had seen my ad. I called him up and before I knew it, I had scheduled an interview. I now work for Stillking Films, the largest production/production services company in the Czech Republic as Marketing Assistant and I absolutely love it. Yes, this job entails long hours and working with multiple languages at times, but it is probably the best job I could have asked for. Mainly, my company produces or provides production services for commercials, music videos and films. We just finished shooting for one American film and have started two others. Two movies coming out in June were filmed at least partially in Prague through our company, and our workload doesn’t seem to ever let up! My job deals mostly with our advertising, public relations, and so on. I have a private tutor helping me learn Czech, and that is plodding along slowly. Currently, I am translating pohadky (fairy tales) and then telling her (in Czech) what the pohadka is about. They say, once you dream in a language you are really understanding it. Let me tell you, I have dreamed in Czech, and in my dream, I am just as confused as I am in reality! A bit humorous, but frustrating never the less. My main obstacle is overcoming my apprehension and criticism of myself when I speak. I can listen to people and basically understand, but when it’s my turn to talk, I freeze. My mind has suddenly seemed to take a lunch break and I get tongue-tied. I also second-guess myself constantly instead of going with a first instinct. Pomalu. Slowly. I know it only takes time and continuous work. My eclectic circle of friends includes not only the international students, but also work colleagues, and a small group of ex-patriots. My brother is now stationed in Germany with the U.S. Army, and we are planning to do our own tour of the Czech Republic when we both have some spare time. Along with work, Czech lessons and friends, I teach at a gym a few days a week to help me stay in shape as well as earn a little extra cash. Taking the tram to work, I see the castle and Karluv Most every morning. It’s a beautiful sight, and seeing it this past winter covered in snow was breathtaking. All the red roofs were now white, and statues had acquired white hats. The transition into spring has been equally as nice. The first plant to bloom is a bush with bright yellow blossoms called “Raining Sunshine.” Soon, the cherry trees will be in full blossom, and all the trees will be green again.
One of Leigh’s professors up in a cherry tree along some small country road. After they collected enough, they would eat them plain or even soaked in Czech rum first. Photo courtesy of Leigh Darilek. Living here has is downside as well. I miss my family more than words can say. I miss real Tex-Mex food. I miss driving my jeep. It is difficult at times. I get homesick, and just want to see my mom and dad, to be able to hug them and not just hear their voice. But, this is a learning as well as a growing experience for me. I am 24 and have seen the land where my ancestors came from. I am surviving, and very happy. When I was interviewed for this job, I was asked, “Where do you see yourself in 10 years?” My answer: “Honestly, I don’t know.” To myself I am thinking, “I just picked up and moved half way around the world and he expects me to know where I see myself in the next 10 years! I am lucky if I can project a month in advance!” Whatever may happen in the next week, month, year or 10 years, I know one thing for sure. I never have to say over and over and over, “What if…?” I now know. Next time, I would like to tell you about the church I attend regularly. St. Thomas is celebrating over 750 years of recorded history this year. From its architecture to its inhabitants; from the beginning up to now, its history is interesting and colorful. Leigh Darilek Reprinted (with color photographs added) from the May 2002 issue of the Český hlas,Czech Voice, the newsletter of the Czech Heritage Society (CHS) of Texas. Susan Rektorik Henley is the editor of the quarterly newsletter. The newsletter is one of the benefits of membership in the CHS of Texas. [Editor’s Note: This is the first is what we hope becomes a long series of articles written for the Český hlas by Leigh Darilek, a young Texas Czech who now lives and works in Prague, Czech Republic. Leigh introduces herself very well in this article so I will not try to duplicate that information. For me, Leigh (and her writing) is delightfully full of life. I hope other readers experience, through Leigh’s eyes and her writing, a grand adventure] |