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Quick and Simple Synchronous Rotary Spark Gap (SRSG)


*** NOTE: This gap is a piece of junk. So what did we finally do with it? Well, Aron kind-of like, accidentally didn't bolt down the stationary electrodes when he turned on the motor........and by the time it was over, I was hiding underneath some plywood behind a bookshelf. And Aron casually looked over at me, at my pissed-offedness, and starts chuckling to himself. The chuckling turns into giggling, the giggling into hee-hawing, then that turns into full-fledged raucous gut-wrenching laughter. The SRSG, (or should I say a broken motor hanging onto busted MDF with a piece of electrode left on it) was promptly hurled into a mud puddle.

The above comments were made when I made the new hvguy.com! But anyway, continuing with what I said last year:

This gap was made in a couple of evenings, it took about 15 or so hours total to finish off. The stationary electodes are 3/8" tungsten, not thoriated. The flying electrodes are stainless steel acorn nuts, and do NOT handle the 18kVA that we put through them! Aron has modified a couple of these to take 1/8" tungsten welding electrodes inside them, and this has worked very well. We need a couple more of them though to run 120BPS, this is why they aren't installed in the pictures.

Aron drilled and tapped the stationary electrode holders (already in that shape) to take the 3/8" tungsten electrodes. We think they look great....kindof a simple, heavy, solid look to them.

The motor is rated 1/2 horsepower, 3450RPM. A wiring diagram is directly on the side of it, and shows everything needed to hook it up. What more can you ask for?! Aron and I took it apart, and ground "flats into the rotor" which is kindof a hard statement to understand unless you know motors. Basically, theres this big round cylinder thing inside, and you grind some off to make the motor sync up with the AC mains (3600RPM when you're done). Actually a very simple process. Only tool required is an angle grinder, a vise, and tools to take the motor apart.

The motor and stationary electrode mounts were all bolted onto a 3/4" thick MDF (highly compressed particle board) base. The stuff is really easy to work with, but you can't tap it. It's similar to normal particle board, but it is water resistant!! Spray paint goes on nicely, too.