Holiday - Part 2
Well I guess I should continue my reporting on our Coromandel holiday fairly soon, before it disappears out of my memory.
After visiting the Square Kauri we headed off further north, to Coromandel township. This involved further awesome driving along the coast before cutting inland about 15 minutes before we reached Coromandel. It does seem pretty random that there's a town named the same as the whole peninsula, yet it isn't nearly the biggest town on the peninsula. I guess at some stage it might have been though, as the place has many old buildings and is actually quite cute and quaint.
But anyway, the main purpose of our visit was to go on the Driving Creek Railway. This attraction is surely one of the more amazing things that you can do in this part of the country. The owner of the Railway, Barry Brickle, has - since about the 1970s - slowly built himself a narrow gauge railway line further and further up the hill behind the pottery factory that he originally established on the site. Apparently the railway line was initially built to transport clay from the hills down to his pottery area, but he became so fascinated by the process of building the railway track that he just kept on extending it over the years. Now it runs about 3 km up the hill, rising about 150 m throughout that course - which is pretty damn steep for a railway line. There are bridges and tunnels, switchbacks and viaducts, and all sorts of other amazing features on this railway. Eventually we reached the top of the line and could climb up a nice wooden tower (known as the Eyefull Tower) to get a great view over the whole aea. The fact that this one guy, along with some fairly low-key local contractors and just a few helpers, has managed to build what is there is simply amazing. Amalia would have really loved the train ride, and I look forward to taking her on it in the future.



Photos from the train and at the top of the hill in Coromandel
After the train took us back down the hill again, and we had checked out some glass-blowing at the bottom of the line (really amazing stuff to watch), we headed off on our way again. We crossed over the Coromandel Ranges on the "309 Road", a fairly remote unsealed route that I don't think I've been on before. About halfway up there was a short walk to the best stand of mature Kauri trees on the whole peninsula, which were simply breath-taking. There is something about a huge Kauri tree that totally blows you away, the height and sheer size of them is really humbling, while the thought of the whole peninsula being covered in them a hundred or so years ago before they were logged really really gets me hacked off that these amazing trees used to be so plentiful but now are not. After we had made our way over the ranges we found our motel in Whitianga, and settled down there for the evening. After fish & chips for dinner by the beach it was nice to get some sleep after a pretty long and full-on day.


The next day, Tuesday, dawned with changeable looking weather, which wasn't exactly ideal. Initially it didn't really seem too bad, although the wind was blowing like crazy which would make it difficult to spend too long at any of the beaches we were heading to that day. We headed off north, on a reasonably short drive up to Kuaotunu (supposedly pronounced Koo-too-noo). Then we headed over the "Blackjack" a pretty short but really windy and steep gravel road that was pretty freaky to drive over. Especially on the way down from its summit it was quite a challenge to make sure I didn't end up skidding anywhere. Gravel roads are certainly a good way to improve your driving skills, as they really make sure you control your speed, the angle that you take corners and how much you brake. After driving a gravel road when I got back on sealed bits it felt like there was this amazing glue sticking my tires to the road, a glue that just wasn't there when driving on unsealed bits.

Once we had made it over the "Blackjack", we reached Otama Beach. This has always been one of my favourite beaches in the country, particularly on the Coromandel Peninsula. For some reason the sand on this beach is a particularly striking shade of white, while the area behind the beach is a reserve, which means it really does feel isolated from the world. Leila and I found a sheltered part of the beach (it was pretty damn windy) behind a sand-dune and sat down to read for a while. After returning to the car we headed off further down the road to Opito Beach. There was a bit of a larger settlement here, and it was interesting to note that the sand had a noticeably different colour even though it was in close proximity to Otama. There wasn't really anywhere much to shelter from the wind here, so we headed back to the car and drove back to Kuaotunu.


From there we continued on to Matarangi, which is one of the growing settlements on this part of the Coromandel. It's frustrating that the more recent an area has developed, the more stupid the houses seem to look. I guess these days those able to afford a beach-house altogether are probably likely to be pretty damn rich, and can therefore afford to splash out on a wanky monstrosity complete with stupid pillars. Unfortunately for Matarangi, a lot of its development has taken place pretty recently, so there's an awful lot of wank there. On the plus side, the beach there is unbelievably awesome, and stretched off in both directions from where we went down to it. Furthermore, fortunately there is a pretty big setback from the beach to the first lot of houses, so when you're actually on the beach it is quite tricky to see any houses at all.

At Matarangi the wind was really blowing like crazy, so once again after getting a few pictures we headed off on the next stage of our journey. Not too far along the road was Whangapoua, which in addition to a pretty cute little harbour-side town had yet another amazing surf-beach. We considered walking around the corner to New Chums Beach, which is apparently THE most amazing beach on the Coromandel Peninsula, but by then the weather was really starting to deteriorate. I hadn't really planned to visit any other places in this area, but as we'd been unable to really linger at any of the beaches we'd visited so far for particularly long, it wasn't actually that long through the day. So Leila and I decided that we'd do a little more exploring, drove back over another road that crosses the Coromandel Ranges, and then went off on a pretty long unsealed route up to Kennedy's Bay and Waikawau Bay - two very isolated spots way up near the very top of the Peninsula. Although this extension to our trip did involve a lot of driving, and eventually we ended up back in the Coromandel township which felt strange as we'd been there the day before, it was fun exploring different areas. Near Waikawau Bay we found a cute little beach with just about nobody else on it. There were two Pohutukawa Trees right on the beach that made for excellent climbing trees, and we hung out there for a while as the weather improved marginally. After that it was a fairly long trip back to Whitianga, and a damn good sleep that night!

Little Bay - Near Waikawau Bay

The groovy road back over the Ranges
(to be continued... shortly!)