1998 Miler Journal of Laura Wilbur, Leader:
7/31 Friday: On the road to anywhere but civilization:
Running late to pick up Karen, Paul's van, and getting to Heber's house. We planned for a 10:00 take-off and now it looks like 12:00. I detest last minute crises at work. Picked up lunch, Karen, van, and dropped off my car at Paul's house. Arrived at Heber's house a little around 11:30. Discovered Carrie could not make the hike after all secondary to a high fever and throat infection. Just Suzy, Karen, Sharmonie, and Jenny of the original 7 will make the miler this year.
Left from Heber's house at just after 12:00. Arrived at Shaver Lake around 5:00 and the Courtright meeting place at 5:33, after getting gas, ice, and discovering at the gas station that my shorts were wet from spilled water. (Water from a water bottle had spilled into the front seat of the van, upon which I sat for 5.5 hours.) What was amusing, was that Suzy moved the van forward while I was in the bathroom and managed to obtain a wet bottom for herself. Got to Courtright and set up camp. Heber and Harmony arrived somewhere around 10-10:30 after driving around lost for an hour. (Our campsite had changed due to the lack of potable water at the original site.) Heber did not see the note left by Paul a tour original meeting place, and made the rounds of the campsites. The most interesting note of the night came when everyone was safely tucked in and the campsite was bathed in a glow of peaceful silence (well it was quiet at Heber's and my end of the camp). When out of the dark and peaceful quiet came this stentorian command in a deep bass voice: "DON'T EVEN THINK IT." The peaceful quiet had changed for a few moments into a tense loud silence before resettling back into a more peaceful mode. With those words I felt a temporal disorientation, as if I was anywhere from 10 to 16 years old and hearing that command tone applied to one of my brothers, my sisters, or myself. A very eerie disorientation, since I haven't hear that type of command tone for at least 20 years. Since nothing more happened, I waited until the next morning to investigate the change in Paul's voice, which usually is not quite so deep or authoritative. It seems our campsite neighbors (college age boys, ahem, AKA baboons by the scouts) had been trying to flirt with the scouts in a verbally obnoxious manner and had been firmly warned by Paul's command to behave and back off. Paul's "Don't even think it" became a source of amusing baboon stories and gentle teasing by the scouts for the rest of the trip.
August 1-Saturday: On the road again (Post Corral Meadows-7 miles) 6 hours
Drove across the spillway of Courtright dam (reservoir on one side, scary and breathtaking gorge views on the right) to the trailhead. Water from the dam was lapping over onto the one lane spillway. The day was bright and sunny. Got a late and easy start. Started on the trail at 10:00 and got into Post Corral meadows around 16:00. Post Corral is the third meadow; the first two being Maxon and then Long meadow.
The rangers with whom Heber and Paul had talked, had mentioned that the trail was not very clear. The ranger's comments were based on information given by a Boy Scout troop recently in the area. As usual, the information given by the Boy Scout troop was inaccurate. The trail was reasonably well marked. Took pictures of the scouts and their "Hiker with an attitude" pose at lunch. Met some hikers at the stream crossing into Post Corral, and compared notes with them on where they had been. We discovered from our conversation that Rae Lake (our next destination) was open and assessable. The stream into Post Corral meadow, contrary to initial concerns and worry at the start of the hike, was easy to cross and a pleasure to wade in after a seven mile hike. Stayed near the stream for while because the campsite was mosquito infested and quiet buggy.
Heber as usual attracted varmints (in the form of a deer) to the campsite. The deer nosed around the site during the evening sleep. Last year it was marmots, and this year its deer. At least his bandanas did not suffer any deer damage from "tasting" as they did last year. Very glad to have my bug cap and my tent, even though I'm not fully happy with my final pack weight this year. (Last year's 47.5 lbs. was preferable to the 54.5 pounds for this year. The food weight is heavier this year, since my wet pack weight before troop equipment was 37.5 lb. this year and 37 lbs. in '97.) The mosquito nets are a hit with the scouts this year, which is a big improvement in emotional happiness for a small amount of extra weight (6 oz. per patrol).
August 2-Sunday: Rae Lake 8 miles 6.5 hours
Got up and out of the campsite a little earlier today. Left by 10:30 after a female ranger rode into camp and requested our permits. We spent the rest of the day leap-frogging over her and her trail-repair crew on our way to Rae Lake. Got into Rae Lake around 4:00 after hiking 1600 feet and another 8 miles. The hike to Rae Lake is tough hike, which was described by the boys as a "bit of a grunt." I'll have to remember that the boys tend to really minimize how much work is involved in a "bit of a grunt." Their "bit of a grunt" is a major hill climbing expedition. Got teased in the morning about my heavy pack. Got revenge on Heber this evening when Paul came back with a couple of fish and Heber had caught one very small fish. Innocently, asked Heber if he would accurately record in his miler journal his catch for today. Earlier that evening, Karen had mentioned Heber’s omission from a previous miler journal, of Paul's catch being larger than his on certain days. The scouts picked up the gambit; the fish were named the Forwards; and Heber was teased mercilessly about "Jorge Inchie Jr." Ahhhhh, the satisfaction of a well-executed revenge.
Side note: This is the last year for these boots, which have given me major blisters on the left Achilles tendon. Jenny and Suzy also suffering from foot blisters. So far no knee ailments among the scouts this year.
August 3-Monday: Rae Lake to Devil's Punchbowl 4.7 miles, 4.5 hours
A very hard day to hike after yesterday's 1600 foot climb and it was not one of my better climbing days. The scouts are hiking strong even with foot blisters and had an exciting time at the stream crossing one mile from Rae Lake. The stream was deep in some sections and moving fast. There were two points of crossing. The first one required waterproofed boots, which Sharmonie doesn't have, and the other choice involved dropping packs and and rock hopping with help from Heber and Paul. The choice was made to pass the packs across the stream via Heber and Paul and then for everyone else to rock hop it. That is not quite what happened.Things went well until my pack, one of the last to be passed across, was on its way across the stream. Unfortunately, the one thing not tightly cranked or hog tied down was the one thing that went down the stream. Karen made a great save of the water bucket and managed to keep her boots fairly dry, while crossing the stream at the deeper but less rapidly moving part of the stream. The rock hopping was not my cup of tea, so I decided to cross where Karen did. This decision, I admit, was influenced by Heber's pained comment to Paul: "She's got my camera." An inadvertent acknowledgment, I suspect, of my less than perfect abilities in crossing streams without getting wet, for which Heber is well known. I, however, have yet to be caught in the upside down turtle-position that Heber seems to favor at times while near lakes and/or streams. I'm sure that day's coming though.
After the stream crossing we hiked down another mile to two miles before stopping for lunch (peanut butter and apples.) We then crossed another stream, another large stream with a great deal of speed. Aqua socks were donned for this crossing. From the last stream we hiked (onwards and eternally up) toward Devil's punchbowl. A beautiful place once you're there. Dinner was late but enjoyable.
August 4-Tuesday: Layover day
Did laundry and washed my hair with very warm water, what a luxury. Tried swimming in the lake, its veryyyyy cold. I went in the lake after Jenny went in; during immersion my lungs went into temporary shock mode to the amusement of everyone else. Decided not to go scouting with Paul and Heber because my foot blister needed to harden up. I'm now at the blood blister stage, and need to devise a new way of wrapping moleskin around my heel. Spent the afternoon taking pictures of Jenny's "end-of-the-world", and keeping an eye on the fishermen/hikers who were on their way to King's river after a brief stopover at Devil's punchbowl. The two fisherman left by 2:00. The scouts amused themselves by baking in the sun, and topping each other with outrageous comments and stories. Outside of laundry and hair cleaning, there was very little activity at camp. The boys were back by 4:15 and dinner was served by 5:15. The early dinner allowed everyone to enjoy the sunset while watching the bats zip and dart across the lake's water in search of bug meals. It was a very pleasant relaxing day.
August 5-Wednesday: Devil's Punchbowl to Horsehead ( 5 to 6.3 miles) 8hours
Got up and out reasonably early and started immediately climbing. The hike up to Two Passes was spectacular and fun. This is one of the few times where the uphill climb of 1000 feet was worth it because of the spectacular views all the way up. Got to climb across a snowfield at the top of Two Passes and take pictures of Paul with his feet wrapped around a boulder. The boulder appeared to have gained two lopsided "ears" that were sticking out at odd angles. I can't wait to see how that picture turned out. Suzy is in the lead today and in her glory doing cross-country. On the way to Horsehead via Crabtree lake and Twin bucks(?) lakes, Suzy did her best to go vertical where she could. Got into Horsehead around 5:00 after 8 hours in packs. A long day and one, which I'm glad we did after a layover day.
August 6-Thursday: Horsehead to Halfmoon Lake 9.1 miles, 6.25 hours
Left camp close to 11:00, a very late start. I'm worried that we'll get into camp around 6:00 or 7:00 PM, tonight. A late start means a late day in general. Went downhill for the first part. The way to King's river is very steep, and the downhill portion of this hike was very ugly indeed. At the end of the downhill , the scouts were tired and Jenny's feet were bothering her. Her stride tends to shorten when her feet are bothering her. Paul’s knees were making ‘noises’ at him as well. Got to the stream crossing, which was very buggy. Crossed the stream in aqua socks. The stream went up to the boys’ knees and the bottom of my shorts. The stream crossing was like taking a very cold shower with the added motivation of pesky mosquitoes to hasten everyone on their way to Halfmoon Lake. Much to my surprise the scouts hiked strongly the last 1.5 miles upward to Halfmoon Lake. I estimated an arrival time of 5:30; actual arrival time was 5:00. The last 1/4 mile is very frustrating to hike, because you know the lake is there but you can't see it until you are actually at the lake. The scouts fell into Heber's suggestion of pairing off to do camp chores with a vengeance. There were no repeats of bonfire to the gods this year. Dinner was an interesting medley of new dishes (mashed potatoes, chili, black beans n rice, and raspberry crumble.) The mashed potatoes and raspberry crumble were a hit this year.
August 7-Friday: Halfmoon Lake to Woodchuck Lake 4.6 miles, 3 hours
I remember last year's hike on this trail so well. This year, we hiked the 4.6 miles faster and without problems (versus last years inadvertent trail discovery f a new way to Crown Lake). Even after yesterday's long hike with an uphill finish, the scouts hiked very strongly up and out of Halfmoon Lake, which starts with an immediate 800-foot climb. Left camp at 9:00 and arrived by noon. Spent a lazy afternoon around Woodchuck. The scouts either talked in a desultory manner or napped. No takers on lake swimming, the scouts’ opinion was that they were too close to hot showers and real food to bother with a cold ‘bath’ in the lake. I set up my tent, the dinner area, and then took a sponge bath and nap. Heber and Paul attempted fishing with no luck Scouts own was an informal affair this year. Everyone agreed that the Two Passes hike day was the best day of the hike. I can't believe that tomorrow is the last of a great hike. I'm not sure I'm ready to go back, even though the oatmeal is wearing thin for breakfast.
August 8-Saturday: Woodchuck Lake to Wishon Reservoir via Marsh Lake, 10 miles 5.5 to 6 hours
The trail to Wishon via Marsh Lake is a dusty trail. The hike down, despite daydreaming from the scouts on Thursday, was slower and not via helicopter or a two passenger plane. The cross-country via Marsh Lake involved one last uphill across 1.5miles (approx. 400 feet of uphill). Got up early, left at 8:20 and arrived at the end of the trail around 2:00. Harmony's leg bothered her on the downhill hike. The backpack appeared to be pinching a nerve in her lower back and adjustments to the pack did not seem to help. The leaders decided to shift some of her pack weight to everyone else at the stream crossing (3 miles before the end). The stream water level was up and it was tricky to cross. Paul ended falling into the stream among rocks while trying to find a way across it. Fortunately, he was not hurt. Amazing, it was not Heber or I in the drink during this trip. Unfortunately, no cameras were available and out for the Kodak moment. On the way out to the reservoir we came across one of the rangers, who we had met on the way to Rae Lake. He greeted us and was impressed with our determination and stamina, as evidenced by his saying that "We were the hardiest bunch of hikers that he's seen in a long time."I missed the spot where we had lunch last year. The lunch spot was somewhere in the middle of the last 3 miles to the end of the trail and after the stream crossing. Ended up at the trailhead sooner than I expected because I kept looking for our last lunch stop during the last 3 miles. Met Suzy's parents, who were very nice to come up with Carrie to greet us with sodas and fruit. Spent the next hour shuttling vans and then hit the showers, which had lines. Got to the pizza place around 5:30, after dealing with a bout of car sickness from Karen caused by my trying to keep up with Heber's truck (Sorry Karen)on mountain roads while driving a 4-banger van. Arrived home at 12:30 after a 5-hour leisurely drive with Karen and Jenny reminiscing about the trip.