Cadette / Senior Girl Scout Troop 253
August 7, 1990
LEADER-S EVALUATION, 1.990 FIFTY MILER IN THE TRINITY ALPS WILDERNESS...
On July 21 through 28, twelve girls, women and men of Troop 253 hiked our tenth annual Fifty Miler in the Trinity Alps Wilderness, northwest of Redding. Of all of our 11 "50s" to date, it presented us with the most demands for flexibility and adaptability. However, like our previous nine such outings, it was a visually beautiful adventure for us all, and a great team building experience as well. All of us returned home from the trek renewed in spirit and in our sense of self-confidence.
PREPARATIONS AND ORGANIZATION:
As is our habit each year, our preparations consisted of a series of planning meetings at which the girls approved of the location and route proposed by troop leaders, and did nearly all of the planning for the trip. This included finances, menu, prep hike schedule, keeping of the journal and preparation of the equipment. Adult participation in the planning was limited to restocking the first aid kits and filing the various applications for insurance, Council permission for the outing, and camping/fire permits.
In addition, the latter part of June and the first part of July were devoted to a series of Wednesday evening and Saturday (all day) preparation hikes, designed to tune up our hearts, lungs and legs. 66 miles of such prep hikes were scheduled, and each participant was expected to complete at least 35 miles before the "Fifty".
On the last night before the trip, girls and adults brought their packs to the annual pack inspection for checking and weighing. Each person was required to have everything called out on the
troop's 50 Miler Equipment List and nothing else (except for six ounces of discretionary material). At the end of this "dump it out" inspection of personal items, troop furnished equipment, Supplies and food were divided among the members of each of the three patrols. The packs were then weighed, and (as usual) we found that several girls' packs were overweight. The usual redistribution of food and equipment took place, packs were given a final weigh-in, and they were impounded lest they pick up additional weight during the night. Girls' packs Weighed in at 32 to 42 pounds, with leaders carrying as much as 55 to 65 pounds each. Our packs were unusually heavy this year, due to the weight of the special food (see below).Having remembered the lessons learned during our 1987 "Fifty" when we were a mob of 18 on the trail, we restricted this year's outing to 12 people at the maximum. A system of deciding whom had priority in the event that more than 12 applied was established.
We hit the trail organized into three self-sufficient patrols, with #2 and #3 starting on Saturday afternoon and #1 leaving the trailhead on Sunday morning. From Wednesday onward, Patrol #1 took a different route from that chosen by the other two patrols, further highlighting the necessity of each patrol to be entirely self-sufficient. Each patrol included at least one troop Leader, at least one man skilled in mountaineering and one person skilled in wilderness first aid.
Participants (and their assignments) were:
Patrol 1:
Elva Diaz*, Patrol Leader
Jos'e Diaz*
Susie Spitze, Finance
Randy Spitze*, First Aider
Patrol 2:
Karen Voisinet, Patrol Leader
Sam Spring, Advisor
Kim Hotz*
Ray Waugh*, First Aider
Patrol 3:
Carrie Reese,
Senior Patrol Leader, Co-JournalistPaula Flaugher, Food, Co-
JournalistSunny Whitehurst
Vern Tucker*, First Aider
* indicates an adult.
It should be noted that Genie Moore was in charge of equipment and supplies, although she could not go on the outing itself.
LOCATION AND ROUTE:
Our route (described on the attached map and contour plots for Patrol #1 & Patrols #2 & #3) was originally planned as a "backward figure 9" hike through that portion of the Trinity Alps Wilderness just northwest of Weaverville. The plan included six to eight miles of cross-country map-and-compass work in the areas around and between Grizzly and Papoose Lakes. We chose a challenging route based upon the wide experience in orienteering which we have gained over the past ten years, as well as the stamina which all of us had displayed during our many prep hikes. The latest USGS topo maps and Forest Service maps were used in the preparation of our plan. Because the Alps are so rugged and the terrain is so steep, four Fifty Milers had to be laid out before one was found which was acceptable in terms of the demands placed upon us.
Patrols #2 and #3 left the trailhead around 3:00pm on Saturday in surprisingly hot weather (over 95° ). As a consequence, they quit after only five miles, halting at Rattlesnake Camp in the lush, green canyon of the North Fork of the Trinity River. Shortly after their arrival, they heard the sound of a helicopter overhead; a fire had broken out at the top of the ridge just across the river, and the Forest Service was "water bombing" it. We leaders contemplated evacuation routes for an hour or so, relaxing only at sunset when the fire had been extinguished. Patrols #2 and #3 arose early on Sunday, and pushed out the eight miles or so to Mill Gulch, stopping about 2:00pm. Meanwhile, Patrol #1 left the trailhead early that same morning, and caught up with their colleagues in camp before dinner. Mill Gulch, located where Specimen Creek flows into Grizzly Creek, is a hidden delight. While there, the girls located a swimming hole complete with natural waterslide and they were all entertained by butterflies and deer. On Monday morning, we hit the trail for the first time as twelve people, climbing 2000 feet to Grizzly Meadow where we made camp in a grove of trees near the base of Grizzly Falls. Falling free for 100 feet and cascading for another 900, this waterfall provided a spectacular backdrop to our camp, During the afternoon, two of the men scouted a route for us up the rock face leading to Grizzly Lake. We arose early on Tuesday and climbed the 1000 feet (in 1/2 mile) to the cirque which contains Grizzly Lake. Where necessary and prudent, we used safety lines looped under girls arms to insure their safety. Located at 7100 feet altitude, Grizzly Lake is a spectacular sight, rimmed on the north by a granite shelf dropping 1000 feet into the meadow below, and circled on the other three sides by jagged peaks and ridges rising 1500 to 2000 feet above the water. Permanent snowfields provide a constant flow of icy water to this 173 foot deep lake. While we were there, three girls and two leaders caught trout ranging up to 13 inches in length; they were good to eat as well as fun to catch.
During the afternoon, we troop leaders conferenced and decided to modify our route. We had discovered that the canyons and ridges of the Alps were steeper than their typical counterparts in the Sierra, and brush on the canyon walls and bottoms was often nearly impenetrable. These two factors meant that the cross-country hike from Grizzly to Papoose Lakes would be very slow and difficult, creating the risk of making that part of the outing a miserable trial of endurance for the girls. We decided to keep Patrols #2 and #3 at Grizzly Lake for a layover day of relaxation, after which they would retrace their steps back to the Hobo Gulch trailhead. Patrol #1 decided to go forward, following the original plan.
On Wednesday morning, everyone slept late. Patrol #1 left for Papoose Lake at midmorning. They reached Lois Lake easily, and then ran into difficulty in their attempts to follow the contours to Papoose. By nightfall, they were 1/4 mile short of their destination; having found sufficient water along the way, they made camp where they were. Their site, part of the area burned during the fires of 1987, was dusty and the ash covered ground sloped badly, making it difficult to get comfortable. On Thursday morning, it took them 2 1/2 hours to complete the last 1/4 mile of their cross-country hike, an indication of the obstacles presented by the terrain. At Papoose Lake they found a single good campsite, and it was already occupied. Taking time for a swim and a snack, they hit the trail once again for the eight or nine mile hike down Rattlesnake Canyon, arriving virtually exhausted at Rattlesnake Camp in the late afternoon. As had been the case earlier in the week, a fire had broken out in the canyon between Rattlesnake and the trailhead; this time the Forest Service was using a four-engine water bomber as well as helicopter. Once again the U.S.F.S. beat the fire, and after a good night's sleep, Patrol #1 hiked out of the Alps on Friday.
Meanwhile, Patrols #2 and #3 spent a relaxing Wednesday at Grizzly Lake, fishing, doing laundry, reading and enjoying the stunning scenery. They arose early on Thursday to descend the rock face before the glare of the midmorning sun could cause problems in finding footholds. Once again safety lines were used where judgement dictated and they were down to the meadow floor two hours after leaving camp. A warm (85° ) Thursday afternoon and night were spent back at Mill Gulch camp, and a very warm (95° ) Friday afternoon and evening were spent at Rattlesnake. Patrols #2 and #3 hiked out of the Alps on Saturday morning.
As is our tradition, we cleaned up and changed into fresh clothing at the trailhead so as to be presentable when we stopped for dinner (pizza, another tradition) on the road.
ROUTINE:
Except for two days, we arose at 6:00am each morning, made our breakfast, cleaned up, packed and were on the trail by 8:30am. While on the trail, we kept within sight of each other. Upon reaching our destination for the day, we made camp and attended to our chores. Upon arrival, our SPL designated a portion of the forest for women to use and another for the men. Jobs usually done by patrols on rotation (foil picking and firewood gathering) were done by everyone on an informal basis this year; in most locations, firewood was very plentiful. In several of our camps we could not bear-bag our food for the lack of suitable trees; having seen no sign of bear anywhere in our trip, we resorted to raccoon-bagging instead. Afternoons in camp were devoted to reading, talking, doing laundry and hair, swimming and relaxing. By sunset each day our dinner and dishes were done and the campfire was burning. Unlike last year, we did no singing around the campfire; we leaders missed it.
WEATHER:
We enjoyed virtually cloudless days and nights throughout the trip. Unlike the Sierra, where temperatures might drop 3° for each 1000 feet climbed, the rate was closer to 7° per 1000 feet. At 7100 foot Grizzly Lake, we enjoyed alpine conditions, with daytime highs in the mid 60's and lows at night in the low 40's. However, at 4000 foot Mill Gulch, we camped in a canyon choked with pines, alders and oaks with highs in the middle 80's and nighttime lows in the 60's. Dropping down another 1000 feet to Rattlesnake or Hobo Gulch brought maximum temperatures in the middle 90's. If we had a problem with the weather at all, it was with the heat; it took its toll on the girls when we were hiking uphill.
"CRITTERS:"
As mentioned earlier, we saw no sign of bear this year. However, at Mill Gulch the butterflies were so thick that several of us held them on our fingertips. At the same camp, we spotted the first scorpion we have ever seen on a troop outing; it was sitting next to one of the adult's feet near the campfire. Although we go to lengths to avoid disturbing creatures we meet on our outings, we made an exception in this case and promptly killed the scorpion. Aside from pesky flies at the lower (and warmer) camps, we had no problem with bugs. Also at lower elevations, we had deer walking through our camps. When Patrol #1 was camped on the side of the mountain just north of Papoose Lake, a 3-point buck walked through their camp. Little chipmunks were everywhere, every day, and got into our food if it was carelessly left out. Finally, at Grizzly Lake we were treated to the sight of a osprey soaring over the surface of the water, occasionally diving with a mighty splash to fetch a trout out of the lake.
EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES:
This "Fifty" saw no problems with equipment or supplies. Because of the unusual menu, each patrol carried an extra can of fuel (for a total of six). Mild weather helped us save fuel; each patrol used 4 1/2 cans (instead of the usual 3 1/2 to 4).
MEDICAL AND FIRST AID:
Aside from three cases of diarrhea (two successfully treated using our first aid kits and one left to run its course) and the usual nicks, scratches and foot blisters, we had no medical problems this year. We felt that the diarrhea was probably brought on by a change in diet, or by the sudden exposure to water treated with iodine. As usual, our first aid kits were more than adequate for our needs.
This year saw us adopt a new policy regarding the disposal of used sanitary supplies. Based upon recommendations found in Meyer's book (see below), we had the girls burn (rather than bury) them. This was done to protect the environment, since they would be dug up by animals before they could decompose in the soil. Each person who went on this year's "Fifty" read her book before we hit the trail.
FOOD:
This year saw us eating food different from any which we have ever used on a "Fifty" (menu attached). Paula, with help from her mother, did a remarkable job of providing us with "supermarket" backpacker's meals. In the main, the food was delicious and well chosen, and we always had enough (or more than enough) to eat. Very little of the food was freeze dried, and all of that was purchased in bulk from a local store (rather than our usual freeze dried Mountain House meals). She used TVP (textured vegetable protein) in place of meat, and veggies were plentiful. We packed along plenty of dried milk (Milkman brand) for use in our meals. As an example, our first meal on the trail (Saturday's dinner) was remarkable; it consisted of meatless falafels, served with sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, and lettuce, in pita bread. Not only was that dinner a delight to the taste, but (being served cold) it was particularly well suited to our hot and tired hikers that night. We have attached a copy of the week's menu, along with some of the recipes (as requested by the girls who attended the outing). Recipe books which Paula used are found in the Reference section at the end of this report.
An additional advantage to this year's menu was the money it saved, compared to commercially prepared freeze dried meals. Paula provided food for one week (21 meals) for 12 people, or a total of 252 meals, for about $585 total or $2.32 per meal. This compares very favorably with the $2.50 per meal cost of last year's food. The downside of our use of "real" food this year was the weight and bulk which it entailed.
It is hard to find fault with Paula's work, but several things were learned this year. First, those meals which used TVP were too large for a patrol of four people; we could have done nicely with 70% as much food as she packed for us. Second, the ziplock bags she chose were too light in weight, and they often failed on the trail; only the very heaviest freezer bags should be chosen for packing food in a backpack. Third, the homemade oatmeal was judged to be inferior to regular Quaker Oats Instant Oatmeal. Fourth, Paula packed too much of the dried milk; We used less than half that given to us. Compared to the hard work that Paula and her helpers put into our menu, and the excellence of their work, these are very minor criticisms.
Having learned in previous years of the importance of energy-packed drinks flavored with sugar, we packed sufficient quantities of lemonade, Kool Aid, Gator Aid and sweetened iced tea to make 168 quarts (two quarts per person per day). Unlike our habit of the previous nine years, the premeasured drink envelopes were not bundled in with the meals; each person was separately given 14 envelopes to use at her or his discretion. Since some days placed heavier demands than others on our water intake, this worked out better than the old system. It was a hot, hard outing in spots; we brought home very little of the drink mixes.
FINANCES:
A financial summary for the outing is as follows:
INCOME
|
Cash payments, 12 @ $65 |
$780.00 |
|
Adult donation, mileage* |
$243.00 |
|
Leader donation, patches |
$90.25 |
|
Troop donation of fuel |
$28.08 |
|
Subsidy from the Troop |
($2.12) |
|
|
$1,139.21 |
EXPENSE
|
Food on the trail |
$585.22 |
|
Pizza dinner on the road |
$68.00 |
|
General supplies |
$58.37 |
|
First aid supplies |
$27.89 |
|
G.S. insurance |
$38.40 |
|
Fuel, 12 cans & $2.34 |
$28.08 |
|
Transportation * |
$243.00 |
|
Patches |
$90.25 |
|
|
$1,139.21 |
* $0.12/mile, 3 cars, 675 miles
Thanks in part to Paula's clever work with the food, as well as troop leader and adult donations, we were able to keep the cost per person at or near the amount charged for our first "Fifty" in 1981 while returning a nominal amount of money to the troop treasury.
CONCLUSION:
Twelve members of Troop 253 shared in the challenge and delights of our tenth annual Fifty Miler in the rugged and beautiful Trinity Alps Wilderness. Each day brought fresh adventures and challenges for us to meet and enjoy. Worked smoothly as a team throughout the outing; as was the case last year, we fell immediately into patterns of team-work. More than in any year past, the girls showed a true spirit of sisterhood and mutual cooperation, both on the outing and during the weeks of preparation before it. We grew to appreciate each other, we shared with each other our delight in the wild and rugged beauty which surrounded us, and we drew a fresh sense of confidence from meeting (and beating) the challenges which "the mountain" threw up before us. As is the case every year, we finished the outing by beginning to plan for next year's adventure in the south Sierra. We four leaders, who place so much importance upon courage, self-reliance and outdoor skills in "our" girls, were very proud to watch them once again prove the wisdom of the Roman philosopher Virgil when he observed
THEY CAN BECAUSE
THEY THINK THEY CAN!
REFERENCES.
Cross, M. and Fiske, J.: "The Backpacker's Cookbook," Ten Speed Press, Berkeley, 1974.
Kinmont, V. and Axcell, C.: "Simple Foods for t Pack," Sierra Club Books, San Francisco,,,;1976.
Linkhart, Luther: "The Trinity Alps, A Hiking and Backpacking Guide," Wilderness Press, Berkeley, 1986.
Meyer, Kathleen: "How To Shit In The Woods," Ten Speed Press, Berkeley, 1989.