Saipan Day Two
Mood:  chillin'
Arrived in Saipan safe and well. Started missing IJC (my son) befoer I even go to Brisbane Airport (I took a taxi). The flight to Cairns was fine - just over 2 hrs.

At Cairns had to go from the domestic terminal to the international one and the humidity in Cairns was so intense, even at 10pm, my hair went into a frizz ball the minute I stepped outside.

Had a few minutes before we could check in for the Continental flight so called home, was a bit disappointed not to get to talk to IJC, but he was already asleep.

Checking into Continental they had security staff doing random bag searches. My big suitcase was searched. I don't mind. I am pleased they are taking steps to avoid further terrorist attacks. Some people get annoyed by it though.

Then I when I went through customs they had a little wand device hooked up to computers which detects minute traces of explosive powder. Very clever.

Had a significant wait at Cairns airport (as expected) It was freezing (aircon) in there and I was tired. Had a coffee and muffin.

Was missing IJC terribly, then I saw a little boy (4yrs) with the same colourings as IJC, but he had straightish hair. This boy was very cute and reminded me so much of IJC. He was also wide awake (it was after 11pm) adn very animated, further reminding me of IJC.

So I went over and started talking to the boy's mum. They were travelling alone just the two of them. She was very nice. We had a long chat, that whiled away the hours and made me feel a little less lonely to be without IJC.

Much a I miss him, there are advantages to travelling alone. Sitting in Brisbane airport I had that same sense of excitement I had when I was first setting off for Tokyo alone all those years ago.

Thankfully we got off early on our flight to Guam. The flight was good. Continental was excellent. The only problem being my inability to sleep on a plane. I would've slept about 30 minutes and then startled awake.

Landing in Guam it was still dark, but dawn broke while we were at the airport. It was a beautiful dawn - all pinks, blues and pale yellows.

Most of the time at Guam Airport was spent clearing immigrations (strange since I was only transferring) then it was time for the flight to Saipan.

The heightened terrorist warnings (recently elevated to Orange, the second highest level. Highest perceived threat since Sept 11 2001) were palpable. Signs everywhere depicting the treat level and very frequent announcements to report suspicious behaviour or left baggage to security staff, who were everywhere. A little piece of the U.S. in the Pacific.

There were a lot of Japanese in Guam airport. I'd say our flight Guam to Saipan was 75% Japanese, at least.

It was nice to fly out of Guam in the daylight and actually be able to see all the houses, trees etc. There was another airport/base (maybe military) and from the air the aeroplanes grounded there looked just like toys - that model Qantas plane that IJC has.

The flight Guam to Saipan was lovely, very relaxed. They call it the "Resort Shuttle". It wasn't at all full. With the sun shining on the endless steel blue sea below, cotton-wool clouds on the horizon and the occasional large island passing below, it was a very picturesque flight. Oh, and it was only 40 minutes. Perfect.

Saipan looked beautiful from the air.

Immigration at Saipan was very casual. Not the third degree I was expecting. No questions actually.

Outside there were police patrolling in their blue-black uniforms with enormous guns slung over their shoulders - very militarized.

A nice drive to the hotel, very jungly. When I first saw the hotel room I thought it was a bit ugly, but I have got used to it now and find it to be fine. I often find hotel rooms ugly. I guess that's a problem for people who live in beautiful new homess (even if it isn't mine).

Just rested most of yesterday as was tired after no sleep the night before. At one stage went for a bit of a tour up Beach Road. Beach to the left, built up area to the right. The whole area around here is developed. Not ultra-modern, sometimes decrepit, but developed all the same.

Stopped at a supermarket to get water, juice, fruit, muffins. The fruit here is different to at home. It's all enormous. Huge honeydews, apples the size of a grapefruit. I've never seen anything like it before. Thankfully the excahnge rate's good for Aussies at the moment (about AUD/USD 0.7500). I would hate to be over here when the Aussie dipped below 50 US cents. That'd make things impossibly expensive. Things are a little expensive here as it is, being an island.

In teh evening just walked down to take a look at the beach. The beach out front of the hotel is lovely. White sands, clear water, and the water so warm, I wouldn't believe it. I didn't swim, but hope to today. Just walked along the beach a little way. There's a beachside bar and grill here with tables on the sand - looks good.

Had Pizza Hut for dinner. Pizza Hut here is a bit different to at home, you can get the pizzas in different sizes. They also give you sachets of chilli pepper flakes and parmasen cheese to sprinkle on top. It's quite good.

There are some US Naval boats a little way out to sea (not far out though) about 3 or 4. At night they are lit up like Christmas trees. It's an interesting sight. Will have to take the camera out tomorrow.

Woke up at 4am today. Crazy holiday insomnia. Dawn broke around 6am. At first the sky was a deep purple then gradually opening up with pinks. It was raining at dawn, and windy. The rain seems to have cleared now, so hopefully will be another beautiful day like yesterday.

In the hotel I have discovered the Saipan Visitors Channel. It is mostly in Japanese, and very repetitive, but nonetheless interesting to see images of Saipan that I have not seen yet.

Monday it continued to shower intermittently. In the afternoon we drove into Garapan and looked at some shops. There is a big DFS Galeria. Lots of souveneirs, but none I particularly wanted to buy. I was in a fussy mood though. Did get one shot glass with the symbolic latte stone that is on the CNMI flag, and also an expanded Continental Micronesia Airport set for IJC, which is similar to the Qanats one he already has, but with more planes, trains, trucks etc.

After town drove on for a bit more sightseeing. Stopped at American Memorial Park and Micro Beach, but didn't get out due to rain, so didn't get to see much of Memorial Park which is apparently quite large.

We then continued on to Pau Pau Beach which is quite lovely with that intense bright blue water. The colours the water takes out here is really quite staggering and defies description. I can't even think of a way to describe the particular blue that has most impressed me. I would say ultramarine, but I think ultramarine contains hints of green, but this particular shade of water has no green. I remember seeing a photo of Saipan with this colour of water in it and thinking that this must be a digital touch up, but really, the water is just like the colour in that photo. Not the whole ocean, just patches here and there amid the darker water.

Anyway, Pau Pau was nice. Jungly growth around the carpark area, big pines near the shore providing shade. White sand with occasional coral pieces and fabulously clear water.

One other amazing thing about the Saipan Ocean is that it doesn't rely on sunlight to bring out the beautiful luminous blue - it is evident even on cloudy days.

Next we went to Banzai Cliff which was one of the places where the Japanese committed suicide during WWII. It was a place of heart breaking beauty. A perfect place for such a dramatic act. A cliff over the ocean. the sea below a beautiful deep navy blue, almost steely inky grey in certain lights. Foaming with white and patches of the luminous pale bright blue. It was so windy there on that cliff. For all the history here I don't feel the ghosts of the past at all. Although it was a place of such intense natural beauty, I didn't feel right to take photos at either Banzai Cliff or Suicide Cliff. I left that for the smiling japanese family groups - it is their history not mine.

Suicide cliff was inland, so those that jumped there fell to the rocks and foliage below. There is a ridge of cliffs inland, of which Suicide Cliff is one. These cliffs are incredibly spectacular. Sheer faces of corally rock rising straight up into the sky. A pinky grey colour, the green foliage on top. Rising over 800 feet. It was so staggeringly high I couldn't even bring myself to look over the edge. What of those who jumped here? Are their bones still to be found down below?

Next we went to Wing Beach which was a small secluded beach reached by about 5km of potholed, puddled, uneven, jagged dirt track.

On the way back stopped at Hotel Nikko, near Pau pau beach. The hotel itself is beautiful with gorgeous gardens. There is a lagoon with tripical fish and three small grey sharks circling round in it. They also have a bird area with all different kinds of birds in it. There was one big empty ornamental bird cage in which tiny little sparrows hopped in and out.

Had Chinese takeaway from China House for dinner. At it in the room with a bottle of blackberry wine which tasted like juice but was to prove surprisingly potent. An interesting night ensued.

Departure
Mood:  vegas lucky
Departed Brisbane at 7:25pm from the domestic airport en-route to Cairns. Domestic airport was surprisingly nice. Couldn't remember it from the last time I flew domestically (1998). Took off under the cover of darkness. I had a window seat.

Brisbane looks beautiful from the air at night. The roads like golden rivers.