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Steve's Quest
Thursday, 15 June 2006
Koya-san
Probably the most scenic place I`ve visited in Japan. Koya-san is simply beautiful. It sits on a mountain top which is accessed by cable car. The train coming through the valley is quite something too since it winds it`s way along railways along the sides of the mountains and you see the mist spattered peaks and the low lying valley down below.
Once I arrived in Koya-san there seemed to be a deep and almost breatheless air to the place. I stayed the night in one of the temple accomodations and was led to my room by a young Monk. After a few minutes another monk arrived and brought me some green tea and showed me around the temple then invited me to the morning service. He said then he would bring up dinner at 6pm and left me to it.
I had a quick wander around the town and the pouring rain did nothing to damage the beautiful scenery.
Dinner was a mighty affair. All vegetarian cooking and it was really nice although I had trouble finishing it since there was so goddamn much! I spent the rest of the night in the temple since the rain wasn`t very appealing to wander around in.

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 12:01 AM BST
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Wednesday, 14 June 2006
Movieland, More temples and more alcohol
Went to toei Movieland today and was pleasantly amused by the set-up. Lots of random movie-sets scattered around and the Power-rangers display almost cracked me up. Although my biggest joy was wandering along and hearing some kids shouting: "STEBEN-SAN!". I turned and seen three kids I`d met in Nara the day before run towards me. It was funny seeing them so after a quick round of hand-shaking and high 5s they set off.
After the movieland I headed to see a couple of the temples I hadnt got around the day before to see what was on offer and was quite impressed with the size and layout.
I then headed back to the hostel. I met Alex and her friend Nadine so it was time for some drink. We watched Team America on Alex`s laptop too. Great night!

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 12:01 AM BST
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Tuesday, 13 June 2006
Nara
Abusing the power of my JR rail pass again I shipped my ass out to Nara.
I arrived and walked up the main drag for a bit to check out the place and see what I could find. I reached a small pretty pond with a lot of artists doing painting so I decided to wander there for a bit since it was pretty sweet. As I walked I caught a glimpse of the 5-story pagoda that I had heard about so I headed that way. As I crested the hill I saw deer... lots of deer. I found a small stand nearby where you could buy deer biscuits so I did and then had many fans in the shape of (you guessed it) deer. I fed them biscuits while they affectionately (at least I assume so) prodded me with their antlers.
After that I walked around the park a little watching the deer chase young Japanese school children around. I came accross a pretty lake which was quite relaxing and emphasised by the gentle noise of the park staff raking in the leaves.
I then headed to the hall of the Great Buddha where a 16m tall bronze statue of the Buddha is held. It was an incredable site. It was quite as captivating as some other temples beacuse of the school kids running around but that in itself was amusing as they kept running up to interview me in English for their homework.
I then headed up to the Nigatsudo which gave an excellent view of Nara and on the way down I got chatting to an old man. He told me he lived in Nara and the place was amazing to wander in any season and any weather and that it was worth trying to see it in all seasons. I then hit the train and headed for home.
I arrived at the Hostel quite late and got chatting to some friendly americans by the names of Pedro, Martha and Mike. They were very cool and I hope they couldn`t smell me since I was all sweated up and covered in deer stench too (which might`ve taken some explaining). After a brief Onsen I headed to the main room where I got chatting to a Latino lass by the name of Alex. She offered me a drink but luckily I`d came loaded and pulled out my hip flask. We started chatting and drinking and got on really well. We headed out to get more drink but couldnt find an open shop so we stopped at a beer vending machine (GOD BLESS JAPANESE VENDING SERVICES!) and on the way back we had a flexibility battle to see who was stretchiest (she won... but it was close). I found out she did salsa so demanded she teach me some in the park which was fairly amusing since a) I was pissed and b) she was pissed. I then tried to teach her some breakdancing and this led to an inevitiable throw down and dance off (I won... but it was close). We then headed back and drank some beer and chatted away

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 12:01 AM BST
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Monday, 12 June 2006
HIMEJI!
So far I haven`t use my Japan Rail Pass since I was saving it for when I really started travelling around. So today I put it`s ass to work and jumped on a train to Himeji!
Himeji is a town famous for the castle since it is the only castle in Japan which is still mostly the original building since it wasn`t hit by the WW2 bombings.
I started in the nearby Gardens so I could get a good look around. I`ve really been enjoying the thoughtful and elegant layouts of the gardens in Japan so spent quite a bit of time there. I even took in a Japanese Tea Ceremony which was kinda fun.
I then headed to the castle grounds and bumped into Matt, my friend I met in the Shin-Osaka youth Hostel. After we got over the intial "Oh... what you doing here?" surprise we headed to the castle together. As we walked through the gate I espied a free tour guide who was finishing up with another couple so leapt on her like a bird of prey. I think she may have been finished for the day but said she would take us round anyway which was awesome of her.
She gave us a very detailed and interesting tour of the castle, explaining the historical, social and tactical aspects of Himeji Castle. She even explained to us how to use Shinto Shrines and let us use the one on the top of Himeji Castle. Afterwards Matt headed to the gardens and I went to get some food. I bumped into the guide, Rie, who took us around so I bought her some waffles as a thank you and then headed off to the station.
I got back to the hostel to find my new roomate was a very talkative Japanese man and although Im sure what he was saying was very interesting and well-formed I still didn`t have a F**king clue what he was saying!

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 12:01 AM BST
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Sunday, 11 June 2006
Walking and wandering and Wondering Why?!?
Now Playing: Jack Johnson
Fate decreed that I should see the imperial palace today so I concurred and headed out that way. The grounds were quite pretty and relaxing so chilled out there mainly, listening to music and contemplating a lot of stuff.
I then headed back to the hostel and struck out for a long walk down by the lake to see what I could see. I wandered for a couple of hours and took some photos but nothing exciting really.
Apart from my deep thoughts and meaningful musings today was a bit of a non-event really.

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 12:01 AM BST
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Saturday, 10 June 2006
Temples and Eel
The day started a little slow today since my drinking partner last night had some sort of bad reaction and wasnt feeling too well.
I took a leisurely stroll down to Ninna-ji temple to have a look around. The temple itself was very pretty but I was mostly taken with the palace area near by with it`s charming corridors and rooms and immaculate gardens.
After that I headed to Kyoto Station with two Cantonese guys I met the day before, Shenzen and Samon (sorry about the spelling guys!) to see if we could find a place to eat. They said I was to lead them which meant we wandered around for quite a while to find a place. We eventually got a decent place and I got my first taste of Japanese Unagi (eel) which wasn`t as exciting a taste as I`d hoped but it was like really soft fish meat with a delicate tang. We then took in a pachinko game which was funny since none of us really could work out what was going on! We then took in the Kyoto lights which werent as impressive as Osaka (said by me) or Hong Kong (said by Shenzen and Samon). Was a great night to chill with the guys. We got back to the hostel and had a couple of sakes then hit the sack.

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 12:01 AM BST
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Friday, 9 June 2006
Higashi-san, blast from the past and Japanese hospitality
Arrived in Kyoto just as my hangover cleared up so it was pretty good timing all things considered. Kyoto is a very pretty town and I got a great intro to it.
I went to a cafe to have some lunch and got talking to an older man about where I was from. He didnt speak English and I dont speak Japanese so the waiter was translating for us. Then he tells me he works at a Kimono printing factory and that I should come and visit it. So we jump in his car and drive to the factory where he showed me the process and let me print up a pattern on some material. He gave the printed stuff as a gift and then took me shopping to buy a frame for it. We then headed to the cafe where he bought me a coke and then took me back to the Hostel. His name was Higashi-san and he was an awesome host for the afternoon.
I got back to the Hostel and met up with a Glasweigan named David who I got talking to. We went for a drink and suddenly he says he had a school friend who studied in Aberdeen, Mairi McDonald. Small world since she was the flatemate and best friend of one of my exes, Naomi. Turns out me and David had been at some of their parties so we must have met before (I mean surely!).
We got talking to some of the locals in the bar and then one guy started buying us drink in the form of sake and shochu. He was fun to talk to and had a few questions about Scotland but wouldn`t believe I was only 22 years old. He kept saying I looked 30! I would`ve been offended if it wasnt for the fact he bought me another round of Shochu.

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 12:01 AM BST
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Thursday, 8 June 2006
Umeda floating garden
Now Playing: Queen.
I took a wander around Osaka and found myself at the Umeda Sky Building so decided to check out the observatory. The view of Osaka was just awesome so I knew that I would have to come back to see it at night. I then took a wander around the subterranian shopping streets under the building which are made up to look like Showa era stores which was pretty cool. The next night Trev and I grabbed some beers and some whisky then headed to Umeda. We scooted up the top of the building and went onto the roof to drink a beer and take in the sights. It was crazy to see the city all lit up like that. We headed inside and grabbed a bench then finished the beers and chatted away. On the way out since we were drunk enough to make pratts of ourselves we knelt and bowed before the clerk to thank her. We then hit a Sake bar and had some Shochu (think vodka but a bit more minging). Then we bought more beers and snacks and headed back to terrorize our fellow hostel mates.

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 12:01 AM BST
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Wednesday, 7 June 2006
Man, fish are ugly.
Now Playing: Red hot chilli peppers, cat empire and other chilled out vibes
Very lazy day today. Took a slow wander out the hostel and took a late breakfast then headed to the aquarium.
I took in a mad and very camp street entertainer who was quite funny to watch. He did a good set with diablos, juggling and unicycling.
Then it was aquarium time. I timed it just right as when I arrived it was feeding time for the sealions and I got to see them doing all their tricks like saluting, waving at the crowd and bouncing in and out of the water.
There was so much on display from sun-fish to dolphins, giant turtles to mantarays and lots of really ugly fish.
The main attractions for me were the 12 m long whale shark which was constantly surrounded by a shoal of fish as it glided so easily around it`s tank. The other attraction was the 2 metre wide spider crabs that moved slowly and delicately and looked like something from another planet than something from the bottom of the sea. Got a lot of pictures but no idea how many came out cos of the dim light and glass panels reflecting the flash.

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 3:32 AM BST
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Tuesday, 6 June 2006
Shopping and big piles of meat.
For some unknown reason I appear to have been undercutting my budget majorly. So I decided to have a bit of a spending moment. I headed to America-Mura to check some bad t-shirts out and have a bit of chat with some of the staff of the shops. I eventually ended up buying a leather glove effort which has become my new favourite piece of clothes next to the cowboy hat.
I then explored the rest of the Osaka Castle grounds that I missed before and took in a couple of the musicians practicing there. Then it was back to the Hostel for an Onsen (hot bath). I met Trev in there, one of the Leicester lads who I befriended and invited him to dinner at a place I`d seen.
It was a bbq with a great twist. The tables all had a pit in the centre that was filled with hot coals then covered with a grill. The meat is then brought to you raw and you get to cook it yourself. We took the "all you can eat" special which meant endless refills of meat. Trev`s face was a pure picture. He looked like a kid at Christmas and we both got real excited about getting to quaff vast quantities of meat. Was awesome fun.

Posted by trek/stevesquest at 12:01 AM BST
Updated: Saturday, 10 June 2006 8:52 AM BST
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