The wood was stripped with a solvent based gel stripper prior to refinishing. You can get quite a buzz with this stuff with out realizing it so use plenty of ventalation. We rubbed down the area lightly with fine sandpaper and cleaned the area with a tac rag and a solvent soaked rag to check out the color prior to coating with Cetol. We put 3 coats of Cetol on all of the interior wood. I love this stuff. The UV pigment inhibitors are a little opaque which helps to hide any small blemishes. A little expensive at $25/can, but I used it on a Thistle and loved the results. The pic to the right is the after photo of the port locker. This side looked worse than the starboard side that is below. You can tell that the photo below does look bad as it was prior to refinishing.
Presto had a little dry rot at one time and the starboard chain plate bulkhead was replaced with 3/4" marine plywood, and glassed back in. The root cause was a leaking chain plate to hull seal. You will need to reseal this joint so dig this area out well to remove the old putty and clean it till spotless with a solvent prior to repacking it with a flexable, 100% silicone RTV. The leaking chain plate joint was the main reason behind the water damage to the interior finish. Very important to do a good job due to the structural importance. The lower front of this little locker had a touch of dry rot that was solved with a little GIT ROT epoxy. You can get syringes down at the local Coop or Vet supply. Use a drill small enough so that the end of the syringe just fits in the hole. This provides for a leak free fitting. All of the hydraulic pressure will force the epoxy into the weak wood structure that has been affected by rot or delamination. I used a small space heater to heat up the repair to reduce the epoxy's viscosity and allow better penatration. The small holes and the screw heads were capped with teak plugs prior to refinishing. You can cut the teak plugs off flush to the surface with a Japanese pull saw available from the Wood Workers Store. There are a few to choose from.
The results of refinishing was topped of by making a plexiglass door for the locker. The main advantage is being able to hide what's inside.The hinges were from Lowe's and modified, the latches were from the local Boater's World and the plexi was from the local plactic's dealer in Knoxville. It was in the scrap bin and only cost a couple bucks.The difference was quite improved from the picture above .
The next little repair was replacing the trim around
the sink and ice box. The wooden strip was mostly missing and I found white
plastic T trim ( can be ordered from The Wood Workers Store 1-800-279-4441, under $10.)
that fit the grove in the plywood. It was a cheep easy fix.
Slight mod, added 1/4" plywood side boards(removable) to the quarter berths to keep "stuff" from sliding into the bilge next to or on top of the battery. In a good blow I have everything seeking the lowest center of gravity.
The Sunday night chat session has revealed another common concern for 525 owners. The plywood used to support the ceiling where the hatch is has a tendency to delamimate. There are a couple of methods used to fix this, one is to cut it out from the inside and use fiberglass tape to put the ceiling back in place. The other is to use a steel hook and reach throught the hatch assess and dig out the old wood. both methods are messy and the cut out and fix was thought to be the real fix. To reduce the possibility of water damage and reduce UV damage to the trim, a cheep sunbrella cover can be used to cover the hatch area.
If you have had any inside stories to add, Email me and I'll add onto this.