GOING TO WINDWARD
The ideal crew weight seems to be between 600-675 pounds and it is
best to use four crew members. The boat is close winded and will tack through
65 deg in winds from 10-20 knots, 90-130 deg below 10 knots.
0 to 10 KNOTS
HEADSAIL TRIM-
The 170% LP light #1 genoa is used for MORC handicap. It should be of 3oz
material with a large skirt and clew about 24" off the deck. A 160% LP
light #1 for PHRF should be the same. To achieve the best sheeting angle
for these two sails it is necessary to install a track outside the standard
track by 7". It should run parallel to the standard track and go further
aft. This track is very important because it allows the genoas to be barber
hauled inboard and out.
The sail should be no closer than 6" to the spreader
and requires constant trimming according to the increase or decrease in
wind velocity.
If the boat is racing IOR, MORF, or MORA, it would
be best to use a 150% 3 oz jib top. The clew of this sail is quite high.
The sail is generally sheeted to the stern of the boat. This sail is very
good in 1-5 knots
MAINSAIL
TRIM- The boom should be at the centerline of the boat.
The top batten should be be parallel to the boom, and the mainsheet travler
car should be to windward. The leech of the Main should be soft with a
slight amount of twist. The Cunningham tension should take the wrinkle
out of the luff, and the outhaul should be set in the same manner. Back-stay
tension will bend the mast, and take the draft out of the main, so be careful
not to take too much. You will have to adjust the cunningham to the amount
of draft in the main.
The travler, mainsheet, and Cunningham adjustments
will have to vary according to the velocity of the wind. The main is very
important on this boat because it is so big.
CREW PLACEMENT- All four people can be in the cockpit. It may
be necessary for one person to be on the leeward deck to get a little heal
to the boat. The helmsman should straddle the mainsheet travler.
This will help to lift the stern out of the water. Between 5-10deg of heel
is desirable. The crew should move very softly because the boat is sensitive.
It is best to try to foot the boat rather than go for the pointing ability.
10 to 15 KNOTS
HEADSAIL
TRIM- The 150%5oz genoa should be used
and should be sheeted to the outboard track. Keep it about 6" from the
spreaders. It should have a set of reef points.
MAINSAIL
TRIM- The main should be full, with the
travler car set close to the center of the track. Again, set the top battens
parallel to the boom. There should be good tension on the Cunningham and
back stay, the clew should be close to the black band and the travler should
be adjusted with the wind velocity.
CREW
PLACEMENT- The three crewmen should be on the windward rail,
no further forward than the aft end of the trunk cabin. The crew is positioned
shoulder to shoulder with their legs over the rail.
15 to 18 KNOTS
18 to 20 KNOTS
20 to 23 KNOTS
CLOSE REACHING
0 to 5 KNOTS
5 to 15 KNOTS-
15 to 20 KNOTS
REACHING WITH A SPINNAKER
0 to 5 KNOTS
5 to 10 KNOTS
HEADSAIL TRIM-
The headsail to be used is the 150% 5oz genoa. The trim is the same as above, however,
it is lead to the standard inboard track.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
The main is reefed to the first batton. The travler must be adjusted to the puffs of wind to help reduce
weather helm. Look at the mast bend because too much will make the main
too flat, and let the fore stay fall to leeward.
CREW
PLACEMENT- The crew should be on the rail, shoulder to shoulder,
and the first man is about two feet aft of the aft end of the trunk cabin.
Try to have only one person make sail adjustments. It is very important
to keep the boat as flat as possible. Be sure to have the crew with their
legs over the rail.
HEADSAIL TRIM-
Use the 110% jib. This headsail is sheeted to the inboard track with the clew going
between the upper and lower shrouds.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
A full main can be used. There should
be a good amount of mast bend. The top of the mast will fall off to leeward,
but that is OK. It is super important to play the travler. At times the
main may be only full in the batten area.
HEADSAIL TRIM-
100% jib is the headsail to use, and the trim is the same as above.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
The main should be reefed again and set as before.
HEADSAIL TRIM-
Use the biggest, lightest headsail you have, making sure the lead is far
enough forward. It should be farther forward than when going to windward.
A jib top is the best sail for reaching. 1 to 5 knots is too light for
any type of stay sail.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
The boom vang should be set but not too hard. The trim of the main can be done
by the travler. The cunningham and outhaul should be let off, and
both the main and the headsail will require constant trimming.
CREW PLACEMENT
-
The crew placement should be approximately as described
for going to windward in 0 to 10 knots. You do want some weight forward
to get the stern up.
HEADSAIL TRIM-
In this range , trim the headsail the same as in 0-5 knots. There may be enough
wind, though to fly a genoa stay sail. It may be tacked on the fore deck
of to a deck eye and should be sheeted to the inboard genoa track or barber
hauled inboard or outboard of it. The double head rig is a super combination
but needs constant trimming.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
The main is very important in these conditions and is trimmed the same as mentioned
above. All three sails must work together.
HEADSAIL TRIM-
The headsail to be used is the 150% 5oz genoa, however, it is lead to the outer track.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
The main is probably reefed to the first batton. The travler must be adjusted to the puffs of
wind to help reduce weather helm. Try to work the boat into the wave pattern
that may be developing like a surfer works his surfboard.
HEADSAIL TRIM-
Use the lightest, 1/2 oz chute in these conditions. The wind is too
light for any type of stay sail.
HEADSAIL TRIM-
Use the lightest, 1/2 oz chute in these conditions. Note 10 knots
is max. on chute.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
Use the travler as a means of adjusting the mainsail. Have very little
tension , if any, on the cunningham and on main. The outhaul should be
released on the mainsail. The boom vang should be snug, and showing little
tension in the leach.
It is still too light to attempt
flying any type of stay sail. If the winds are in the solid 10 knot range,
then the stay sail will help, but experience shows people tend to concentrate
only on the little stay sail to try to get it to work rather than concentrating
on the big sails that do all of the work. Stay sails really produces little
extra performance.
10 to 15 KNOTS
HEADSAIL TRIM-
In this amount of air it is best to fly a 3/4 oz chute. A tri-radial, true-radial
are quite good. Some boats have had good success with star cuts, but it
is felt that a genoa at 90-95 deg of apparent wind, reaching , is faster
than a star cut. A 3/4 oz tri-radial is quicker than a star or genoa at
100 deg.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
Use the travler as a means of adjusting the mainsail. Have very little
tension, if any, on the cunningham and on main. The outhaul should be released
on the mainsail. The boom vang should be snug, and showing little tension
in the leach.
CREW PLACEMENT-
Have the crew well aft in the boat. Its time to get the boat to surf.
15 to 20 KNOTS
HEADSAIL TRIM-
Bear the boat away from 115-120deg off the wind in order to keep control, and
get maximum performance out of the boat. To reach with a chute in this
amount of wind it is best to have the wind at 120deg for control and speed.
If you have to sail closer, a genoa would be the best sail to use.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
Use the travler as a means of adjusting the mainsail. Have very little
tension, if any, on the cunningham and on main. The outhaul should be released
on the mainsail. The boom vang should be snug, and showing little tension
in the leach.
CREW PLACEMENT-
The crew placement would be well aft in these conditions. You may find it easy to
fly a small jib or stay sail. This would help keep the bow of the boat
down and create better control and may slightly increase boat speed.
GOING DOWNWIND GENERAL NOTES
0 to 5 KNOTS
HEADSAIL TRIM-
Use the lightest, 1/2 oz chute in these conditions.
MAINSAIL TRIM-
The mainsail cunningham and outhaul should be very loose. do not try to go directly downwind. It is best to sail 150
deg and jibe if necessary to keep the apparent wind speed.
CREW PLACEMENT
-
The weight should be well forward in the boat to reduce the wetted surface. As the
breeze increases, move the weight of the crew a little more in the middle
of the boat. As the wind increases further, move the crew more aft trying
to get the boat to surf.
If the apparent wind reaches 12 knots and above use a 3/4 oz chute.
This will reduce any stretch, and the spinnaker will hold its shape better.
If the breeze is holding a steady 10,12, or above, a small stay sail may
be effective. In almost all off wind sailing it is best to carry a straight
mast. This means reducing tension on the backstay.
Sailing at 140deg to 170 deg off the wind in 10
knots and above a 1/2 oz blooper or shooter, can be very effective. The
effect is almost the same as flying two chutes at one time. Many heavier
and moderate displacement boats find it necessary to fly a blooper to maintain
stability. This is not the case with the 525. These sails are flown to
increase performance.
The boat is very much like a dinghy with a keel.
It is very sensitive to weight and requires a technique of sailing that
is of dinghy type. It is necessary to move quickly and lightly. As the
boat receives a puff of wind going to windward and starts to heel, it is
important to have crew members move his weight outboard to help keep the
boat level. Think in terms of a crewman sitting on the rail of a dinghy.
While the boat heals slightly, the crew hikes out
to level it. This puts the rails at a sharper angle to the wind and therefore
a greater driving force is generated. As the boat levels off it literally
shoots ahead as the force of wind is centered into forward motion.
It is important to be very conscious of the slightest
movement in the boat and of any changes in the wind to get the maximum
performance from this boat both off the wind and on the wind.