MAINTENANCE

    A. STANDING RIGGING

1. The standing rigging should receive a yearly inspection particularly around the swage fittings and nico-presses. Check for  bent or broken strands. Since moisture runs down the twisted wires, it can get trapped in the middle of the wire and inside the swage fittings. The resulting rust will expand and crack the fitting. If defective strands are found, replace that piece of rigging immediately.
   Check all of the cotter pins, rivets, and nuts and bolts. Stainless steel does not show fatigue, so it requires close inspection. Check halyards to see that they are running on the sheaves properly. Oil the sheaves if needed. It is important that they not run on dry axles which would cause deformities on the sheaves.
2. It is recommended that the standing rigging be cleaned regularly to prevent rust and dirt stains on the sails. The rigging can be cleaned by lowering the mast and wiping down with paint thinner. The mast and spreaders should also be wiped off.
3. The turnbuckles should be kept clean. Salt water often builds up on the threads and makes adjustment very difficult. Adjusting the shrouds without clean , well lubricated threads will gall the threads, destroying them. This also reduced the strength of the turnbuckles. Turnbuckle boots are available to help keep them clean and to reduce chafing on lines and sails.
4. The mast and boom are anodized aluminum and should never be cleaned with abrasive material which would scratch the anodizing and cause aluminum oxide to form. Dust, dirt, smoke and salt all stick to the aluminum oxide causing a dull and unsitely corrosive look. The mast and boom can be cleaned with fresh water and an automotive polishing past wax. This will provide a protective coat which will last about six months. In order to prevent unnecessary chafing against the mast and spreaders, tie the halyards off away from the mast when you leave the boat.
 

1. If the boat is kept in salt water, it should be hosed off after each sail to remove the salt from the hull ad deck. To be sure that all of the dirt is removed, a nonabrasive detergent can be used. Be sure this washing is followed by a thorough rinsing with fresh water.
2. The luster of the non-skid surfaces can be restored with a solution of fresh water and liquid detergent such as Mr. Clean. Use a heavy scrub brush and be sure to rinse the surfaces thoroughly to prevent streaking. Tidy Bowl is another effective product. Both contain an acid, so it is imperative that no solution be left on the deck or topsides.
3. Be sure to avoid any metal filings on the deck since they will leave small rust marks. Any rust marks that do get on the boat can be removed with oxalic acid or Teak Brite. Test a small portion first to check the results.
4. Small scratches in the gelcoat can be polished out with different weights of polishing and buffing compounds. Bigger scratches may require filling with patching paste. This paste is gelcoat which has been thickened to a putty consistency. It comes in the standard gelcoat colours but should be tested against the fading of the boat. Gouges may need to be filled with a plastic auto body putty and then sprayed with gelcoat. Any major damage should be professionally repaired since the application is quite technical.
5. It is a good idea to keep the boat covered when not in use to protect from UV.
 

1. The smoothness of the bottom is just as important as is the the cut of the sails. If the bottom paint is in good shape then scrub the bottom prior to racing to remove any trace of growth. The difference is running with the pac or just pointing a little above them.
2. If your doing a bottom job, be sure to carefully read the directions for the paint you have selected. Different geographical locations will require different anti fowling performances. Check with other boat owners in your area.
3. The bottom must be thoroughly sanded and etched before being painted to assure removal of all wax, dirt, and film and to assure excellent mechanical adhesion.
 

1. It is very important that all deck hardware be kept clean . it is made of either anodized aluminum, stainless steel or chrome plated brass, and can be cleaned with either metal or chrome polishes. A coat of wax after polishing will provide a protective coating. Again, stay away from abrasive materials that would scratch the surface.
2. The chain plates should receive an annual inspection. The holes where the clevis pins are installed should be checked to be sure there has been no elongation. The chain plate covers should be removed to check for any electrolysis that may be occurring underneath them. If any cracking or fatiguing is detected, the chain pates should be replaced. Be sure to reinstall the chain plate covers with bedding material such as silicone RTV or Dolphinite to prevent leaking.
3. Winches require regular cleaning and oiling with a light weight lubricant on the pawls and springs. Use a good quality grease on the gears and bearings.
 

1. All lines especially in salt water should be soaked periodically in a bucket of fresh water to remove all salt. This will keep them more pliable.
2. Keep your  lines stored in a dry area to prevent mildewing.
3. The ends should be properly whipped to prevent fraying.
4. Check the lines when you go out to detect any fraying before the line breaks. A new  $15.00 line is a lot less than repair to the boat or outboard!!
 

1. All of the woodwork on the Santana 525 , with the exception of the tiller , is teak. This is a low maintenance wood but should not be ignored. If ignored, it will check and crack.
2. The interior woodwork should receive a good oiling at least once a year. We recommend Watco Teak Oil.
3. The exterior teak should be oiled every three months or so. It should be sanded first to remove all dirt and salt. If you prefer the lighter appearance of teak, use Teak Brite. It cleans the teak and polishes it to a lighter color. If you prefer darker more natural look, use teak oil such as Watco.
4 The tiller is oak and requires regular varnishing. An un-varnished  tiller will crack and weaken substantially. It is a good idea to cover the tiller when not in use to protect it from the  UV rays and from the weather.
 

1. The plastic coating is best cleaned with paint thinner applied to a rag.
2. The stems should be cleaned with a polish.
3. Check the bases and all other mechanical fastenings for water leaks.
 

1. The rudder has a stainless steel post and backbone and is made of high density polyurethane foam with a fiberglass covering. When the boat is out of the water, the rudder should be covered with a light colored towel or white paper to prevent it from absorbing too much heat when exposed to direct sun light. The heat can cause the foam to expand and crack the outside covering or can cause large blisters to form on the surface.