Off To See The Wizard; Again

Left early, heading towards "the Alice" or Alice Springs. We were unable to take the much preferred dirt road because of the rains the night before. So, we backtracked once again and headed up the Stewart Highway. A short time later, we caught sight of a large flock of Major Mitchell parrots. They are a large, grayish parrot with underwings of bright coral. Very beautiful! We also saw several flocks of chartreuse budgies, some wedgetail eagles, and lots of mud larks. Mid morning found us at Mt. Ebenezer Station, just in time for "tea". It is run by some Aboriginals and they sell food and souvenirs to the tourists. We had their specialty; Lamingtons. They are sponge cake layers, filled with jam, coated with chocolate, and sprinkled with coconut. YUMMY!

On the road again---over the Parma River and past the MacDonnell Range; over the Finke River (the oldest river system in the world) and past the Seymore and James Ranges. Soon after crossing the Hugh River, we came upon 16 camels, standing and lying in a field. Australian camels are of the type known as one-hump dromedaries. Several of the inhabitants of this area have camel farms where they lead camel safaris into the desert and also export camels. It is often more profitable than trying to raise cattle in such dry, barren conditions.

Around 1:30, we pulled into Standley Chasm where we ate our lunch and started the one mile walk into the chasm. The day was overcast, there were WONDERFUL palms growing up the slopes, and we saw many kinds of birds. We also got our first close-up look at the ghost gums; trees whose trunks and branches are snow white. Once into the chasm, there were terra cotta colored walls rising 200 feet on either side of the narrow path. We took turns photographing each other between the walls. We returned to our coach, thinking we had seen the day's highlight, only to discover several rock wallabies on the rocks behind the parking lot. They were about the size of a bobcat and very beautiful. We watched them for about 15 minutes before boarding our coach and heading on to Simpson's Gap.

On the way, we passed a wetlands area where we saw two black swans, a flock of bright green budgies, black cockatoos, and some ringed neck parrots---green with yellow and black rings around their necks. We arrived at Simpson's Gap where the walk in was considerably shorter and the return trip was on a dry river bed. I was fascinated by the rocks in this particular area because in addition to the usual oranges, terra cottas, grays, and blacks, there were many in various shades of pink and lavender. Needless to day, several small ones made their way into my pocket! The gap itself framed a group of irregular ponds and was almost too beautiful to believe.

Heading north once again with thoughts of "the Alice" in my head. For some reason, this town has always held a fascination for me, and my romantic notions of a small, remote Australian village were fresh in my mind when late in the afternoon, we pulled into town. So much for romance!! Alice Springs is now a bustling town of 25,000, complete with a K-Mart, Blockbuster Video, McDonald's, and Pizza Hut; not at all what I expected. Our resort lay across a pretty bridge (over a DRY river) from the downtown. Like most of those before it, it was quite luxurious. After a look around and an excellent dinner, we turned in to rest up from a long day.............

DAY 7 4/16/00 29 miles

Up at 7:00, breakfast, and a walk across the bridge to the "mall". It consists of a two block section of store after store, with a pleasant walking area in the center. Because it was Sunday, only some of the stores were open, but there was a craft fair going on in the center area. Many local craftmen, white and Aboriginal, were selling their wares. As luck would have it, Dick found the "perfect" didgeridoo he had been looking for in one of the shops. A didgeridoo is an ancient musical instrument used by the Aboriginals in their sacred ceremonies. It is actually a log, hollowed out by termites, and decorated. You blow into it in a special way and haunting sounds come out. (Now you know what you have been hearing!) Dick has had NO success so far. I bought several gifts; boomerangs, t-shirts, jewelry, etc.

Got back to the resort at 11:30, just in time to board the coach for a tour of the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Funded both by the government and through fund raisers and donations, the Alice Springs base has three planes that serve a huge area of Outback. They treat both the Aboriginals and the remote station dwellers, both routine medicine and emergencies, and all at NO cost to the patients. Local doctors, nurses, and paramedics take turns going out.

From there we drove the short distance to the Alice Springs Desert Park; a lovely park nestled between the MacDonnell Range and "the Alice". This was our first opportunity to examine the many beautiful Australian birds up close. There were also wonderful exhibits with bilbys, desert rats, lizards, and snakes. They put on a great raptor show which was cut short by a sudden shower; unusual for this time of year. We also got to stroll with three kangaroos and two emus in an enclosed area of the park. On the way back to our second night at the Alice Springs Resort, we stopped at the old telegraph station with it's long and successful history of early communication. It was very interesting to realize there was "life before telephones and computers".

The highlight of our final evening in "the Alice" was to have been the outdoor Pioneer Barbecue, but once again we were rained out (the rainy season is supposed to end in March!). Instead we had dinner in the restaurant, and were entertained by a young man singing and playing a guitar and a harmonica and an Aboriginal man playing his three didgeridoos and music sticks. The food was good, as usual, and the company, even better.....................

DAY 8 4/17/00 328 miles

This morning, three of our couples left to go their separate ways. Sadly for us, one was Gwilym and Eleanor, our new friends from Wales. Mostly we will miss Gwilym's soft, lilting speech; almost like music rolling off his tongue. They will be flying on to Melbourne to spend some time with family. Barney and Anne from New Zealand are taking the Ghan (a train) back down to Adelaide, and Cecil and Elaine from UK are flying to Darwin to join another tour.

Our first stop today will be the School of the Air. They serve 140 students over a HUGE area. Each student receives a two-way radio and a packet of supplies which are replaced with new by air mail (literally!) each month or so. Every station has an air strip. The teachers make one visit a year to each of their students and the students who are able gather in Alice Springs twice a year for a field day. Some families employ a tutor who lives with them and helps with the school work. Recently computers have begun to play a welcome role in the teaching process. Parents pay only about $80 a year for this service.

As we leave Alice Springs, it is pouring, and we drive down a wet, bumpy dirt road heading for Bond Springs Station where we will enjoy morning "tea". The station is approximately 650 sq. miles and they keep 3,000 breeder cows on it. They do no supplimental feeding; the cows are left to fend for themselves and "feast" on the desert grasses and scrub brush. It is an isolated, lonely life for those who choose it.

Just before noon, we cross the Tropic of Capricorn and enter the Australian tropics. Ti Tree is our lunch destination and all along the road we begin to see orchards and grape vines. We also get our first look at the Desert Rose, a pale mauve flower of the hibiscus family. Ti Tree is named for the wild orange tree of the same name. Once into the town we see fields of asparagus, melons, tomatoes, and native flowers which are cut and shipped all over the world. Lunch consisted of hot dogs which in no way resembled the ones we have here. We also got to visit with some hawks and emus and kangaroos which had been injured and were penned up and taken care of by the locals.

Moving northward once again, the weather is "fining up" according to Sandy. The landscape is no longer so flat, but somewhat rolling. The vegetation is getting thicker and greener. We pass a town called Barrow Creek; population, 12. The rain has stopped, but the clouds are hanging low in thick layers, with lightness around the edges. In mid afternoon, we stopped at Wycliff Well for a potty/drink stop. There was a camel and a donkey in a large enclosure, standing side by side. Lindsay told us that they had been "mates" (pronounced mites) for many years and were now inseparable.

Heading out on our last stretch of road for the day, the Devil's Marbles is our destination. The landscape is once again almost devoid of trees and brush; just rolling hills with tufts of spinefex grass. The Marbles are just one more AMAZING phenomenon in this land of Oz!! There are huge piles of very large round rocks, covering an area of several acres. Geologists tell us they were originally one large rock range, worn into smaller round rocks by water seeping through the sandstone over millions of years. It is a rather gritty looking orangish rock, some with a coating described as onionskin. We spent an hour or more walking around, taking photos, and exclaiming over the unusual rocks.

Just 30 minutes from our motel in Tennant Creek and the sky is mostly blue with puffs of white clouds. Off to the west the sun is beginning to set and there are shafts of light spilling down from the clouds. The motel turns out to be one of the more picturesque; six-sided units of pink with white tin roofs. A perfect place to rest after a long day........................

DAY 9 4/18/00 428 miles

Headed out at 7:30 to explore Tennant Creek, a gold mining area of the 1920s. Just outside of town, we stopped at a truck stop where the road trains were lined up; the drivers enjoying their breakfast before heading on their way. There were about 20, carrying cattle, fuel, and everything else needed by the Outback dwellers. Most had 3 trailers; 54 wheelers! They have 650 horse power and twenty gears. We were told that there are some that pull six trailers on the east coast. Unlike here, the drivers keep no logbooks and have no restrictions.

There is a lot more vegetation as we head north this morning; holly, grevillia, purple bachelor buttons, and yellow flowered ground covers, to name some. Our "tea" stop, around 9:30, is a pub at Renner Springs. Standing outside under the shade roof, there is a gentle breeze blowing and birds everywhere. Off again, through Elliot, Newcastle Waters (this station is 3,409 sq. miles and is home to 60,000 head of cattle), Dunmarra, and across the tablelands. Lots of blue sky and sunshine, but getting hotter all the time. Lunch today was at Daly Waters. The pub was decorated with all kinds of old-timey stuff; a fun place!

On our way to Mataranka Thermal Pool this afternoon, we pass through Larrimah and see our first water buffalo. The pool is in a park/campground complex, like everything here in Oz, IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE. We changed into our "bathers" and took the path to the pool. It meanders through a swamp-like area, resplendent with giant palm trees and filled with the sounds of jungle birds. Just before reaching the pool, the path changes into a bridge-like boardwalk leading to stone steps into the the pool. It is a natural pool, irregular in shape and about the size of a backyard swimming pool. It is very deep and very warm and gave me the feeling of an oasis deep in the jungle; a truly magical place! As we headed back along the path, we watched a wallaby hop off into the swamp.

Arrived in Katherine, our overnight "home", just as the skies opened up once more and rained on us. I have to keep reminding myself that spring is the rainy season downunder; not fall.................

DAY 10 4/19/00 252 miles

Katherine is a very pretty town; lots of palm and fragipani trees, everywhere. As we head for Katherine Gorge, we are told that the high waters will allow us to do only the first part of our boatride. We pass mango orchards that look very much like our peach orchards. Wallabies are quite numerous in this area; crossing the road in front of us and hopping through the trees on both sides of the road. There are many trees along this stretch; especially coral gums and tamarans. We cross Maud Creek which is flowing briskly this morning. Three black cockatoos are flying alongside our coach as we enter Nitmaluk National Park, and we see more and more wallabies.

The boat ride on the Katherine River, although shorter than planned, was WONDERFUL! There were cool breezes blowing, a shade cover over the boat, and the scenery was once again spectacular. At the end of the gorge, we disembarked and took a rocky walk up to see the rock paintings made by Aboriginals over 10,000 years ago. There were figures of men and animals, mostly painted in red ochre on the sandstone rock faces. As our boat made it's return trip upstream, we were treated to our first (and ONLY) sighting of a fresh water crocodile. It was VERY large and the noise we made in our excitement caused him to dive into the depths.

Heading back into Katherine for shopping, we saw a water buffalo in a small pond. After exchanging some more American money for Australian, doing some window shopping, and eating lunch, we headed on to Edith Falls. The main falls was surprisingly "but a trickle", but there was a smaller, very pretty falls at the back of the swimming lake. Although we did not swim, it was a pleasant place to sit and enjoy the sights and sounds of the cascading water.

Early in the afternoon, heading for Kakadu National Park, we took a short tour of Pine Creek. This was once a uranium and gold mining area, but is now known for it's mango wine production. We also passed a rather crude horserace track. As we turned into the road to Kakaadu, the termite mounds began to get really BIG! Some of them reminded me of giant sandcastles. They are no longer red, but rather a light tan color. Just after entering the park, we saw mounds as high as 6ft. The temperature is now approaching the 100° mark and we are starting to see the dreaded "mozzies" (mosquitoes). The trees are the largest we have seen so far; some as tall as 20ft., but with very thin trunks. The landscape of this area reminds me of pictures I have seen of the African plains; high grass and tropical looking trees. I keep expecting to see zebras or giraffes! The far-off ridges are now completely treed, as well, and we see more and more palms as we head farther north. A parenti lizard, about 18" long, crosses the road in front of the coach as we pass flooded areas, watching for crocodiles...................

We arrive at the Gagadju Crocodile Hotel just before dark, and it is EXCELLENT! Our room has patio doors opening onto the center court where there are ponds and streams and small waterfalls, as well as a swimming pool. The water lilies and other flowers are SO beautiful, and just as I was enjoying the flowers, hundreds (thousands?) of rainbow larakeets flew in from every direction to roost in the trees around the hotel. They have bright orange on their necks and upper wings, and make a real racket as they arrive for the night. Dinner buffet was delicious and bedtime came early.