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Carrier Bearing Installation
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Up to this point in the rebuild, this step was the one that gave me the most difficulty because I did
not use a press. Harbor Freight Tools sells a twelve ton
hydraulic press for right around $110, which,
had I known the difficulty that would be involved with this step, I would have bought. The only other
option that I see
(beyond what I did as shown below) would be to have a shop press the bearings
on for you. The way I installed these bearings as illustrated below did work but I am
quite sure that
it is not the correct manner to install these. Some that may read this may think that I could possibly
have screwed up the carrier by doing what I
did.
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My original hope was to heat the carrier bearings in boiling water figuring that if it worked for the
ring gear it may work for these bearings. It did not.
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- Even though placing the bearings in boiling water did not allow them to slide easily over the carrier
surfaces I did choose to do this in the hopes that
it would make the rest of the process easier. If you
decide to install these bearings my way I recommend you include this step.
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The carrier bearing in a pot of boiling water. I actually
left the pot on the stove with the water boiling and
the bearing inside for about five minutes.
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- To install the bearings I first placed the bearing on top of the carrier surface. The carrier surface
is tapered a bit at the top so the bearing can be
pushed a little bit onto the surface. I then used the
old carrier bearing race to drive the bearing down onto the carrier.
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The old carrier race placed over the new carrier bearing.
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I then used the Axle Bearing and Seal Installer tool to drive the bearing
down onto the surface. I did use a dead blow hammer to lesson the
amount of shock
placed on the carrier.
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When you get to do the other side you need not worry about your blows hammering the bottom
bearing into the floor/table. The bearing, when fully seated,
actually sits below the carrier
surface.
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The carrier bearing seated on the carrier. Notice that the
carrier sticks about 1/8" past the carrier bearing when
it is properly seated.
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Just to be on the safe side, to make sure the bearing is seated
all the way onto the carrier, I attempted to slip a very thin
blade from a feeler gauge between
the carrier and the bearing.
It did not fit which indicated to me that the carrier bearing
was properly seated.
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The question that needs to be asked is whether you can screw up your carrier by hammering on
the bearings. On the one hand the carrier is pretty sturdy, on
the other, we are dealing with tolerances
in the one thousandth of an inch range, so just little bit of warp could throw us off. As a precaution
I will be extra
careful measuring the run out on the back of the ring gear with a dial indicator once
the rear end is all assembled.
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Back to Contents
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Traction Lok Rebuild
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