Hip Dysplasia - They should have clearance from OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) or PennHip. Their ratings should be excellent or good. This should be obtained after the age of 2 yrs, final clearances cannot be done before then.

Chrondodysplasia (CHD, dwarfism) - They should have CHD certificates. These are issued by the Alaskan Malamute Club of America.

Eye Clearances - They should have eye clearances from an Ophthalmologist or CERF Certificate. This must be done every year on dogs being used for breeding.

These are a few things to ask for. The breeder should be able to show you the certificates and paperwork associated with the clearances. Do not be fooled by them simply telling you they're done.

Both parents should have these clearances/certificates

Ask the breeder about the health & clearances of the parents, grandparents and brothers & sisters of the parents. As we all know, health issues tend to run in the family, even in humans.

Is the breeder an active member of local Malamute/Working Dog clubs?

Is the breeder an active member of AMCA (Alaskan Malamute Club of America)? Simply being a member doesn't prove they're reputable, but if they're active in the club they probably have the dogs best interests in mind.

Is the breeder active with their dogs? Participating in dog sledding, carting, weight pulling, hiking, backpacking, conformation/dog showing, obedience, agility, etc?

How many litter does the breeder have, now, and in the past? Do they have litter after litter? Many breeders who produce frequent litters may be breeding for profit, more puppies ='s more money. Ask them how often they breed, and why!

Will the puppy have limited registration with the AKC and require spay/neuter contract?

Does the breeder have a written guarantee for congenital health or temperament problems.

How were the parents chosen? What was the breeder trying to accomplish with this breeding? A breeder should be breeding for the right reasons, not because "she's cute", "because my children need to see the miracle of life", "my friend had a stud dog", "to supplement my income".

Will the breeder be available for all your questions for the life of the dog? Do you feel comfortable asking the breeder any and all types of questions?

Last but not least...

Will the breeder take the dog back at ANY time, for ANY reason, if you cannot keep it? This is VERY important. A breeder is responsible for ALL puppies they produce for their lifetimes. If ALL breeders did this, there would be no need for rescue.

Are a majority of the dogs in the puppies pedigree/family tree titled? Do they have letters before or after their names; like CH, CD, BIS, CGC, WPD, WWPD ? Having a CH (Champion) on a few dogs is o'kay, but having multiple title holders in the whole pedigree on both parents is GREAT!

Meet both parents if possible, the dam for sure. What are they like? How are their personalities, temperaments, looks, structure? If the sire isn't available ask to talk to people who have puppies sired by him, and to the sire's owner.

Is the breeder knowledgeable about raising puppies - health and development periods of puppies? Puppies need lots of human contact, socialization and experience with different situations, noises, people etc.

Puppies should not go to their new homes until at least 8 weeks of age. They should have their first set of puppy shots and a vet check before going to their new homes. Puppies learn a huge amount from being with their mother and litter mates.

Puppies should be temperament tested and evaluated. The breeder should choose a puppy that will fit best into your home, family and lifestyle. A quiet & shy puppy wouldn't do well in a noisy, busy household and a dominant puppy wouldn't be a good match for a couple that wants a quiet Mal.

Are the puppies healthy? Are their surroundings clean and neat? Do they have room to interact and play together? Are they full of energy, and playful? Are they interested in you and curious of you? Do they come up to you quickly to investigate or cower in the corner?