THE AVC-RGB1 UNIT USED IN THESE INSTRUCTIONS IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE. IT WAS DISCONTINUED IN 2002.
I'm sorry, I cannot help you any longer regarding these instructions since the unit is no longer being made.
-Jeff
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THIS INSTALL DOES NOT ALLOW YOU TO USE THE STOCK DVD ROM AS A DVD PLAYER! IT ALLOWS YOU TO HAVE THE ABILITY TO PLAY ANYTHING WITH A VIDEO OUTPUT ON THE NAV SCREEN! (I.E. PS2, DVD PLAYER, NINTENDO, ANYTHING WITH A VIDEO OUTPUT) AND YES, YOU CAN STILL USE THE NORMAL NAVIGATION SYSTEM, YOU JUST FLIP THE SWITCH TO GO FROM NAV TO INPUT!
THIS INSTALL WILL PROBABLY COST BETWEEN $130-160 DOLLARS USING THE SUPLLIES THAT I HAVE LISTED BELOW.
ANOTHER KEY NOTE, THIS INSTALL IS ALSO FOR VIDEO ONLY! NOT SOUND!
THE TYPE OF VEHICLE THAT THESE INSTRUCTIONS WERE INTENDED TO BE USED ON IS AN ACURA 2001-2002 CL/TL WITH THE STOCK NAVIGATION UNIT.
I AM IN NO WAY RESPONISBLE FOR YOUR FAILURES IN THIS INSTALL PROCESS. I HAVE MERELY MADE INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DO IT, AND AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN MISTAKES.
Some of the links where you can purchase things CAN change anytime, plus I will add more places when they become available to me. ANOTHER THING is that you CAN use different things for this install, like a 4pdt RELAY instead of running the three sets of conduct wire to the front. My method DOES work, so you CAN do it my way.
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****NEW SOUND DEVICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!****
http://store.autotoys.com/cgi-bin/wfp53024.storefront/3ddc5dea004b3ffc2754d8f5a5020678/Product/View/HONDAMP3
It's a Blitz adapter that plugs directly into the back of the stock stereo! takes 5 minutes to plug in! Uses RCA inputs! If you want sound you MUST buy this thing. Do NOT at any cost by an RF modulator because it has the worst sound imaginable! Buy this Blitz adapter from Ron at Streeteffectz www.streeteffectz.com or from the link above. Should be around $75 dollars.
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MAKE SURE YOU ALSO PRINT OUT THESE ATTATCHED PICS:
https://www.angelfire.com/super/typesdragoon/navconversion/navpics.html
Supplies you will need:
AV-RGB1 converter (pic AVC_RGB1)
*This unit has been discontinued. I do not know of places to purchase it or any place that might have it in stock. Ron at Streeteffectz is your best bet in finding this unit, or ask people online. Do not ask me because....I don't know where to find one :)
http://www.pioneer-racing.com/Pioneer/CDA/CarProducts/CarProductDetails/0,1429,2,00.html
Or contact Ron @ his site http://www.streeteffectz.com streeteffectz@home.com
the cost is between $115-140 depending on where you get it from. DO NOT PURCHASE AN ALREADY MODIFIED ONE UNLESS YOU WANT TO SPEND A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS MORE ON IT. THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW WILL SHOW YOU STEP BY STEP IN HOW TO "MODIFY" THE CONVERTER
4PDT switch ON-ON (pic 4PDTswitch)
you cannot get this from radio shack, you can only get these from electrical supply stores
45feet of conduct wire – stranded (pic stranded_wire)
this is what it’s called at home depot - 1' 18-4C Sound and Security Cable Model E2034S1810
you can go to http://www.homedepot.com and do a search for sku# 249865 $.27cents a foot
inside the main gray wire, there are four smaller wires, red green black and white
11 Telephone wire splice connectors 16-18gauge (pic telephone_wire_splice_connectors_4_pack)
they have a red top (color coded to the gauge of the connectors) and have 3 small slots for 3 wires to be connected.
a handful of little zip ties
electrical tape
a piece of 16guage stranded wire 3inches long
Wire cutters / splicers
Soldering gun / extra solder
Drill
Philips screwdriver
Pliers
1 old towel (or just something to wipe hands on)
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1. stuff needed – Philips screwdriver, the 3inch 16gauge stranded wire, solder gun/solder, wire cutters/splicers, electrical tape, AV-RGB1 converter
Start by unscrewing each of the screws on the RGB1 converter (look at pic AVC_RGB1), then lift the top off, unplug the power wires by pushing on the little white tab and pulling (set the power wires aside for now, you wont need to put it back on till the end of the install), push the 4 little metal tabs holding the board onto the shell, unscrew the 1 remaining screw on the board (the tabs are marked with red dots and the screw marked with a greed dot on pic RGB1-1), and lastly, lift the board out of the shell. On the back of the board, locate the DSN and the GND connections (look at pic RGB1-2). Take the 3ince 16gauge wire, cut the ends of it about 1-2mm to expose the stranded wire just a little bit. Solder each end onto the DSN and GND connections (look at pic RGB1-2-2). You might want to solder them on the same angle as I did to ensure that the connections don’t break or get in the way of anything else. BE VERY CAUTIOS NOT TO LET THE “JUMPER” WIRE OR THE SOLDER TOUCH ANY OTHER CONNECTIONS AS IT MIGHT CAUSE A SHORT! Once the two connections are soldered, you can use a small piece of electrical tape to hold the wire against the board. DO NOT put the board back in the shell! Just put the converter somewhere safe for the time being.
2. stuff needed – 45foot conduct wire, 4PDT switch, wire cutters, zip ties, soldering gun/solder
Cut the 45foot conduct wire into 3 equal length sections, which would be 15feet each, times 3. Take one of the 15foot conduct wires and put a piece of electrical tape on each end, to “mark” it basically. MAKE SURE you mark BOTH ends of it! This “marked” wire will hereinafter be called the DISPLAY wire. Cut they gray outer sheath away about 3inches from the end. Now you will see 4 smaller wires inside wrapped around another sheath, a little bit of “cotton” fiber, and some silver stranded wire. Your main concern is the 4 colored wires inside, red green black and white. So just cut the silver stranded wire and the “cotton” fiber. The four colored wires MUST be cut equal lengths, because when you are soldering the tips of them onto the very small connectors on the 4PDT switch, the wires are so stiff that they don’t move very well, and you could break off one of the wires that you JUST soldered. Unsheathe about 1-2mm on each of the 4 colored wires, so that a very small portion of the stranded wire inside is exposed (see pic conductwire-1).
Grab the 4PDT switch now, cause your gonna be soldering the wires onto it now. What I did was to use a piece of DUCT tape to hold the switch down on the ground in my garage, so that it wouldn’t move while I soldered. So do something similar to make the process a little easier. You want to put it on the ground so that there are 3 rows of 4 connectors, from left to right as if you were reading. The MIDDLE row is the DISPLAY wire row, so take the 15foot conduct wire that you labeled with electrical tape as the DISPLAY wire, and solder each of the four colored wires onto the middle row being very careful NOT to let extra solder or a little strand from the wires touch other contacts! IT REALLY DOESN’T MATTER what order you solder them in at this point, just solder the 4 wires on and continue on when done.
Now that you have the DISPLAY wires connected to the middle row of the 4PDT switch, you now have to do the same for the other two 15foot conduct wires. AT THIS POINT MAKE SURE you solder the “same color” wire on the same vertical row (see pic 4PDTswitch-3). When you’re done, put a zip tie around the 12 wires about 1inch away from the switch, enough so that you don’t squeeze the little wires off the connectors. From now on, be somewhat careful with this switch, because you don’t want the wires to rip off the contacts because they are very stiff and could break off.
3. stuff needed – Philips screwdriver, drill, pliers
So now you have a 4PDT switch on one end of three 15foot gray conduct wires just kinda dangling there, so put zip ties around them about 5-6inches apart from each other, to basically group them into ONE group of wires to make running them a little easier.
We must now run the wires from the front of the car to the back. So go open the driver side door, and sit down outside next to your driver seat. From left to right, pull off the fuse box panel, the HOOD popper latch panel, the door sill, grab the bottom of the doors weather stripping and just pull it up to the top of the car (it goes back on easy, don’t worry), put your hands under your rear seat bottom and pull it up (there are just two snap things holding it on), and lastly , when you pull off the back seat bottom, you’ll expose 1 screw holding on the rear side wall that you need to take out, so that you can pull the wall off just enough to get your hand behind it (you don’t need to pull the whole darn wall off, you just need to be able to squeeze your hand in there).
Allright, on to mounting the switch. A good place for it is on the very left bottom corner of the panel under the steering wheel (like where your knees are). The switches wires will stick out where the fusses are JUST PERFECTLY so that they are nowhere near any metal frames or objects to short it out in any way. This is a great spot, out of the way, and easy to get to. So just drill a hole the size of the threads on the switch, poke it through, and put the small bolt that came with it on to hold the switch in place. Now start running the wire toward the back of the car. When you get to the rear seat wall, the 1 screw that you took out just a little bit ago has a small GAP right next to it that you can put the wires through. Then push the wires up under the rear seat back, and into the trunk. You can now put all the panels and the rear seat, back to normal. Remember to put the 1 screw back in the wall, and make sure you put the weather stripping back correctly to ensure a proper seal.
4. stuff needed – AV-RGB1 converter, solder gun/solder, the top “shell” off the RGB converter
Put some kind of matt or something in your trunk because next you must solder a few of the conduct wires onto the RGB converter IN THE TRUNK! Grab the top shell of the RGB converter and ONE of the two conduct wires you just ran that are NOT labeled (NOT the DISPLAY one because that one has a piece of electrical tape on it signifying what it is). What your going to do is to stick that one conduct wire into a hole on the converters shell. So find the spot on the shell that has a big square hole where a wire harness would go through, and next to it is the hole that we actually want. There is a tab in the middle of the hole, so just push the tab out of the hole, and use the pliers to twist it off. Now push that one conduct wire INTO the hole, and pull it through a few feet just to get it out of the way. Unsheathe that conduct wire THE SAME as you did all the other times.
Hold the RGB converter (look at pic RGB1-3), and I labeled the 4 jumpers R G B C that stand for:
Red, Green, Blue, Composite
The four colored wires inside the “non-labeled” conduct wire that you pushed through the shell will connect to these 4 jumpers. You will see two very small silver wires holding the jumpers onto the board, which is how they are kinda “floating” above the board. But we ONLY CARE about ONE of those silver wires on each jumper NOT both. Take the four colored conduct wires and solder them onto each of the jumpers:
The RED conduct wire goes to the jumper labeled R on the pic
The GREED conduct wire goes to the jumper labeled G on the pic
The BLACK conduct wire goes to the jumper labeled B on the pic
The WHITE conduct wire goes to the jumper labeled C on the pic
It’s a little difficult to solder the conduct wires onto the jumpers because there are other jumpers and fuses in the way. Just be sure to take your time and do it right, without breaking anything off the board or melting other jumpers.
When your finished soldering the conduct wires onto the converter, just set the converter aside and out of the way for now. DO NOT stick the shell back on it just yet incase something doesn’t work and you have to check all your connections again! (which hopefully you wont have to do this)
5. stuff needed – wire cutters, 11 of the telephone wire splice connectors, pliers, zip ties, and towel
Reach around behind the nav’s DVD ROM and unplug the 3 main connectors by pushing the little tabs on them and pulling. Using the pic I provided (see pic navunitwireharness) figure out which connector is which. You ONLY need Connector A for this next step.
Holding connector A, cut off some of the factory electrical tape/wire crap as much as you can. You need to have at least a few inches of the wires exposed to splice the conduct wires onto them. Grab the other conduct wire NOT LABELED and unsheathe it just like all the other times. Now ON connector A, there are of course 7 different colored wires. About 2inches away from the actually plastic “connector” cut these FOUR wires listed below:
WHITE
RED
YELLOW
GREEN
Obviously, since you just cut the wires there are now 8 wire ends to deal with, 4 still connected to the plastic connector, and 4 going away from the connector on it’s way to the front of the car. LET’S JUST concentrate on the 4 STILL connected to the plastic connector. Each of those 4 wires means something:
WHITE = red signal
RED = green signal
YELLOW = blue signal
GREEN = composite signal
And now for the FULL VERSION on how to actually CONNECT them. Use 4 of the telephone wire splice connectors to attach the 4 colored conduct wires to the 4 wires still connected to the plastic connector. Use the pliers to “squeeze” the top of the splicers into the wires. And here’s how they all connect: (yeah read it 4 times too to get it right)
The WHITE wire still attached to the plastic connector gets spliced with the RED conduct wire.
The RED wire still attached to the plastic connector gets spliced with the GREEN conduct wire.
The YELLOW wire still attached to the plastic connector gets spliced with the BLACK conduct wire.
The GREEN wire still attached to the plastic connector gets spliced with the WHITE conduct wire.
When you finish doing that, zip tie the whole group together so that they all stay together in a nice bunch.
Now ONTO the DISPLAY conduct wire. Unsheathe the wires JUST LIKE ALL THE OTHER MILLION TIMES! These 4 wires get connected to the 4 wires that got de-attached from the plastic connector in the SAME order as above.
And again, when you finish doing that, zip tie the whole group together so that they all stay together in a nice bunch.
Using the pic I provided (see pic navunitwireharness), find connector C. The wires that we are dealing with are:
RED/YELLOW = positive + (power wire)
YELLOW/BLACK = accessory
BLACK = ground
Grab the power wires for the RGB converter that you set aside earlier. Cut off the one labeled ILLUMINATION because we DON’T need that wire AT ALL. Then cut the ends off the “power” “ground” and “accessory” wire but LEAVE the little in-line fuse connected to the “power wire”. Obviously, these 3 wires are labeled the same as above. BUT this time, we connect them a little differently.
Cut the 3 wires on the plastic connector C about two inches away from the connector. Now BOTH ends of each wire, along with EACH 3 wires from the RGB power wires get connected to each other. Since the splice connectors allow 3 small wires to go into it, this works out perfectly. Then again, zip tie them all together so that the wires don’t get pulled off the splice connectors.
Plug the RGB power wires BACK on the RGB converter. And now we are ready to test this out. So if you have something already in your car with a power adapter, plug it into the video IN on the converter, turn your car’s power on, and flip the 4PDT switch to the one of the two ways so the signal from the nav DVD ROM changes to the INPUT from the converter. What I did at my house was to plug my PS2 into a wall socket next to my car, and ran the video OUTPUT from the ps2 to the INPUT to the converter, and WOOHOO it worked! So what you do is just flip the switch to go from Navigation system to input. Simple as that!
Once you test it out and it works, then you did everything right! And you can now put the shell on the converter, zip tie everything up nicely, and electrical tape all the wires so that it looks like a nice professional install.
Congrats! You know have a sweet looking nav conversion install, and a lot of people are jealous of you!
**COPYRIGHT - INSTRUCTIONS WRITTEN, TESTED, AND INSTALLED BY JEFF AKA TypeSDragoon, San Francisco Bay Area, California – Nov 18th, 2001**
