NOTICE: The following pages contain information that I learned and developed during development of my alcohol/ water injection system. I created the web pages as I was developing the system. Consequently, you will find some details changing as you read through the pages in proper sequence. I felt that the information contained herein would be more beneficial if I left the pages during developmental stages alone and just added any new information as I found it. It may read more like a diary as the experiment progressed and the final details and tweeks will be found in the last pages. The experiment really has no end as the need for speed always continues. It is my hope that seeing the experiment in its natural progression might enable the reader to better understand the working of the system and perhaps lead to ideas that I may have missed.
Alcohol/WaterInjectionSystemBelow is a schematic of a water / alcohol injection system I just installed. I will follow up with more detailsafter some testing. Without very much tuning time I am running 24 lbs boost on a race chip with 93 octane with little or no knock retard. Power is incredible especially at 15 lbs boost pressure and above. I have installed an 80-100 psi pressure switch as a replacement for the 40-60 psi switch that came with the SHURflo model 8000 pump. In addition to this change I have also added a bypass line much like the one in the Buick fuel system. This was done in order to stop the pump from cycling between the upper and lowerlimits of the switch. At this time I have not yet read the actual output pressure which is adjustable by a small allen screw on the pressure switch. The bypass line (or return line) has a ball valve that I adjusted to the point where the pump does not cycle on and off but produces just enough volume to stay within theswitch limits.
Let the Journey Begin
The weather has been snowy and brutally cold lately and testing has been very limited to small time periods when the roads were dry. Also, this extreme cold (-5F) is very untypical for my area and trying to tune to these conditions would be a waste of time. The system has performed very well at temperatures in the 30-50F range.
The nozzles that I am using are rated for 7.5 gal. per hour and 13GPH. That totals 20.5 GPH at 100 psi. During an actual flow test the volume that was sprayed was actually 17.5 GPH and that may be due to the pump pressure not being set to 100psi. I will eventually get to monitor and set the pump pressure acurately. I am very happy with the results so far including drivability at lower boost levels. I will be doing additional tuning and experimentation in order to develop the system to its optimum potential, reliability, and drivability. Right out of the box it was a significant success.
I must thank many people for valuable information that was incorporated into the design of this system. Many of the links to alcohol injection sites on the web were a wealth of information. Special thanks go to Carrol's Supercharging for a fantastic catalogue with invaluable diagrams and for some of the parts they have available. I would like to add Steve Hill's name to the most helpful list as well. Steve offered advice, enthusiasm, and motivation for this project. Steve has developed his own system that works extremely well and had to pretty much go it alone while developing it. He was eager to share information and exemplifies what "going fast with class" is all about.
As soon as I get a chance to take some pictures of the system I will post them here. It's not a stealth design but I think it looks impressive. When people see it they usually say "Wow". The pump is located where the battery normally goes but I relocated the battery to the trunk. The tank sits just above the pump forward of the Buick coolant overflow tank. The alcohol lines run just under the air conditioner lines behind the radiator. The 2 nozzles aim at the throttle plate and attach to the bend at the front of the uppipe. They sit aproximately 30 degrees apart from each other (7 and 5 o'clock positions when viewed from above).
I will also be assembling a parts list with costs and sources. A complete system will probably cost $ 275- $300. It may cost less if you have access to some of the wiring, electrical connectors, relays, hoses, and fittings.
1 SHURflo pump Model 8000 from Northern Tool and Eqipment Co. Part# 2687-8216 List $100.95 discount price $69.99 (60psi @ 1.4gpm)
1 80-100psi replacement pressure switch aprox. $20. (raises pump pressure and is optional) Contact SHURflo for a distributor near you or Shuster Corp. 4 Wright St. New Bedford, Ma. 02741-3086 (508) 999-3261 part # 94-375-15 $19.30 + $4.80 C.O. D.
1 Water filter $3.95 part# 81-0240 from Carroll Supercharging Co. Inc. tel. 973/835-1705
2 3/8" barbed check valve $3.50 part# 2431 Carroll's
1 12v Solenoid valve $65.00 part# 359115 Carroll's
2 Stainless Steel Nozzles $5.95 Part # 1075 Carroll's or local plumbing supply $ 3.03 ea. (oil burner nozzles rated in GPH and either 45 degree or 30 degree spray pattern.
1 Tank ( windshield washer or coolant overflow tank will do) $5.00 Salvage yard. I used one from a VW that is sturdy, has outlet at bottom and return at top.
4 1/4" NPT x 3/8" Barbed elbows $ .50 ea. Part # L4-6BN Carroll's
1 3/8" Ball valve $5.00 Home Depot
Fuel injection hoses 3/8" and 1/4" aprox $10.00 ( lengths vary according to your arrangement of pump and tank) Aprox. 8 ft. of 3/8" and 3 ft. of 1/4".
15 (aprox.)Hose clamps and assorted tees and fittings aprox. $10.00 Depends on tank outlet and inlet size and how many reducers you may need.
2 Hobbs pressure switches $15.00 ea. Steve Chlupsa (adjustable 4-20psi)
2 Relays $6.00 ea. Radio Shack (30 amp)
3 Fuse holders Radio Shack (also need 1-3amp fuse and 2-10amp fuses) About $7.00
Assorted wiring, lighted switch, a green and blue bulb, and connectors for attaching to relays, and switches (Radio Shack) aprox $15.00
2 Outside Nozzle holders (2) Carroll Supercharging $10.00ea. part# 1582 (must be welded to uppipe) I had my own made from steel and TIG welded to pipe
2 Brass nozzle adapter $5.20 ea. from local plumbing supply (brass- they came in 2 lengths but I think I used the short ones). Made for holding nozzles in oil burner.
2 3/8" X 1/4" brass bushings (can't remember what these were) $3.03 ea. From local plumbing supply. Might be to step down from 3/8" to 1/4" hose.
2 1/4" hose barb X M adapter $ .72 ea. From local plumbing supply. ( screws into back of nozzle adapter and inside of the following adapter)
2 7/8". ODCOMP X 3/4M Adapter $5.20 ea. From local plumbing supply. (These hold the brass nozzle adapters inside and the whole assembly screws into the outside nozzle holders.
Aproximate cost for all materials is $293.00 + tax. I did not have to pay for the outside nozzle holders or welding so my cost was about $275.00.
If you have any fittings, clamps, relays, wiring, switches, hoses, etc you may be able to reduce this cost still further. Also, you may be able to use the 40-60psi pressure switch that comes with the pump and not bother with the bypass line in order to save another $35.00
If you have any problems finding what you need or need any questions answered you can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
and fittings for mounting the nozzles to the nozzle holders was
and I will have to research the proper names for these fittings. I also
used an o-ring and epoxy to assemble each unit.Kind of hard to explain
but neat and long lasting. Nozzles attach to these fittings and are
changed when tuning. I will try to give more detailed instructions
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