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I'm going to try to explain this the best I can, I'll most likely be making changes to this.. if you have any questions... email me
First off, I am using dark thread on these demo hemp pants because the picture will show up better... but I did go back with a white thread over the serged so the dark didn't show through. You will always want to use the same color thread, or as close to that color, as the fabrics you are sewing.
If you are making a blue dress, use blues or purples.. if you are sewing dark colors (earth colors) use browns or dark tans. Make sure you don't buy cheap thread as cheap thread breaks easy... and it will totally piss you off. Spend the extra money. YES, this has happened to me. Also... another helpful hint<> make sure you are sewing on the wrong side of fabric... the printed side should be inside as you sew... Oh... and use pins so your fabric stays together, but don't sew over your pins!!! Ohmy!!!
Measure... if the person has a 32 waist, I would make the fabric cut at 45 inches at least. This will give some comfy butt room. No butt huggers! Ha!!! You will loose about 4 inches on your crotch cut as it is. You also want to make sure that the fabric has room to gather at waist too. Most people that wear this clothing wants loose fitting... so it's better to be bigger then smaller. Due to the drawstring waist, these pants can fit a number of sizes. I almost always make my waists 60 in. and bigger on adult clothing. Everybody always tells me how comfy my pants/shorts are. Ok, so after you have your two parts of fabric cut, you fold them over like pant legs...
You put the two parts together and measure out your crotch cut. It may look weird, but trust me, you want your crotch cut to be right or the pants will gather at crotch )OH~MY( and/or the waist will be too short.
I cut down about 14 inches from fabric at first. I go back and cut down the top part (waist line)later. It's better to have to much, then too little fabric.
Ok, so when you open up the pant legs... it will look like this...
You sew together the crotch part FIRST! If you have a serger, I would suggest using the fold while doing the crotch instead of the cut option. Also, since you can't do curved sewing on a serger... you just stretch out the fabric and make it straight. Trust me... it works. You also want to make sure you go back and double stitch with a small straight stitch in these areas... as this is a stress point in pants.
Ok, now you go and sew up the middle of the legs. You want to start at the crotch and sew down the legs if you don't use pins. You need to make sure you line up the fabric in the crotch part before you sew it together. Again... make sure you go back with your straight stitch on this stress point.
Ok, that's done... now if you want to do side panels... you want to cut the sides out before you do your waist. Waist and bottom hem is last.
Sew your side panels in... make sure they are right sides in (printed sides in)
At this time you want to cut down your waist part... then you want to go around the waist with your serger so the fabric doesn't fray. Use your cut option on this one. If you are not using a serger machine, simply fold down the top part about 1/2 inch and sew it down.
Figure out the way the crotch will fall... so you know the front from back. Once you do this, cut a small slit from the waistline for the drawstring and sew it down as seen in the picture.
Start adding your drawstring. Make sure you pull the string out far enough so it doesn't get lost in the hem... I hate when that happens, and so will you ~Ha!Ha~ Also, try to use something besides hemp on the drawstring, hemp is a nice "cool" touch, but it frays real bad after just a few washings and it will look all raggy and break... looks nasty!
Ok, your pants are just about done... hem up the bottom and there you go!!!
I would suggest buying "drawstring" stoppers. You can get them at any fabric store. I use to pay 10 for $1.00 at Hancock Fabrics in Arizona... but they are now like 4 for $1.00. Terrible price! If you find a good price on these... let me know. But, try to use them because drawstring comes undone so easy while dancing or whatever. Also, this is quick and easy to use!
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