93 version(left) and 98 version(right)
The XP-150 is a great weapon. It is the quinessential
assault rifle. This page is a guide to help you maintain, repair, strengthen, or
modify your XP-150. This page is just getting started, so perhaps more info will
come, but for now, enjoys it, and if you own a 150 and would like to see something on this
page, let me know! There are a lot of pictures, so check em out!
First of all, there are two versions of this gun(actually 3, one
had the colors of the original 93 but was the 98 version)
this is the 1993 version.
the 1998 version
The difference between the two guns is:
1. The 1993 version has a riot blast(removable
nozzle) while the 1998 version does not
2. The 1998 version has a more secure tank
connection that has threads and turns 180 degrees. The original 1993 version has two
knobs that lock the tank it and it turns only 90 degrees
3. The 1993 version has five different colors-light
grey(body), purple(barrel), orange(nozzle), yellow(trigger and pump), blue(pressure
chambers), and red(water tank)-------The 1998 version 3 colors, green(body), purple(barrel
and water tank), and orange(trigger, pump, and nozzle)
4. The 1993 version has a spot of glue holding
the pump tube and both blaster halves together(a real pain for getting apart) while the
1998 version has no glue on the pump tube. (note: this happens to be the difference
between MY 93 and 98 version. This may vary)
Performance wise, its pretty tough on this gun!!!
This gun is so well designed is hard to improve on its performance. However, there
are mods you can do to enhance the looks of this gun.
this is the 93 model, completely stock.
This is the same gun, with modified looks.
Man, this gun looks sick!!!!
Here is what I did to this gun:
1. Carefully and neatly taped the barrel with
electrical tape(non shiny)
2. Roughed up and painted the pump handle and
trigger(sorry you can't really see the trigger!) If you don't rough it up, the paint
will just scratch off or wear off quickly. And then its shiny. Roughing it up
also makes it look really nice, a nice contrast with the other shiny parts of the
gun. Also, the non-shiny blackened trigger and the shiny grey body is the best
contrast I have ever seen!!!
3. Took the same electrical tape mentioned in number
1 to put X's on the pressure chamber. Not only does this make this the coolest
accent, it's purpose is to keep the pressure chambers from getting scratched when you lay
the weapon on the ground.
One of the worst things about this gun is that its
really really hard to get it open. Not only does it have a nozzle cap and a pump
cap, but they are both glued on!!! I'd say that both versions of the gun are equally
hard to get into. The 93 version has a removable nozzle, so you can get closer into
the nozzle cap to saw it in half, but the 98 doesn't have any glue on the pump.
Bleow is a description and pictures on how to get your XP-150 open. They reason for
getting your XP-150 open is so you can get inside if you ever need to, but the real reason
is to correct the only fault that this weapon has, the puller o-ring
connection. What this fault is, is just this: The gun has a
nozzle assembly. This is what allows the water to come out of the weapon. In
the back of the nozzle assembly, inside the weapon, there is a metal puller coming out,
which connects to the trigger assembly. This allows you to control the opening and
closing of the nozzle by pulling the trigger, and, in turn, pulling the metal puller back
to release the water. Now, since there is a hole in the back of the nozzle assembly
to allow the metal puller inside the assembly, water would come gushing out whenever you
pulled the trigger, pulling back the metal puller, releasing the water pressurized in the
weapon. So what now? An O-ring!!!! Since water would leak out of that
hole, a small O-ring, encased in a small plastic capsule, was slid onto the metal puller
and glued onto the back of the nozzle assembly, sealing the water inside the
assembly. The problem come in the connection of that O-ring capsule onto the back of
the nozzle assembly. It is a very weak joint. And since the trigger assembly
is very intricate and complex(you'll know when you open it up!) the puller sometimes does
not pull back perfectly straight, like in simpler trigger designs. What this does it
put stress on the O-ring capsule. Soon it cracks. This is what happened to
Ruthy, my main XP-150. I was able to fix it finally(I had tried many many times) and
I want to provide the information to you so that you can fix yours to if this same problem
happens. (note:It is much much much easier to strengthen the nozzle
assembly when the gun is NOT allready broke.) So if you want your gun to
remain reliable, I would suggest this fix, even if your gun it not broken, plus you will
make your 150 field strippable in the process!
First of all, don't unscrew any of the screws.
You will probably be moving the weapon around alot while sawing the caps.
Your going to want a micro exacto saw and a hobbie
knife. Please wear safety glasses and be careful for your own safety.
Sorry about the flash of the camera. This
shows the position of the micro saw compared to the 150.
here is a drawing of how to cut front
nozzle. You cut it along the same line as the two weapon halves. In this
picture is shown a 93 model(note the removed nozzle) If you are doing this on a 98
model, be very very careful to not damage the actual nozzle, since you can't take it out.
This is a picture of the bottom part of an Xp-150,
showing the pump cap. This is the cap that you will have to cut along the line and
perpendicular to it.
This is a drawing showing the directions you have
to cut the pump cap. At the top, you see the line you have to cut is flat, against
the 150's two halves. The bottom, you cut along the 150's lines. The second
line that is up and down is the cutting line for the front of the pump cap. When you
do that, tape up the pump bar so you don't damage it.
This shows the cap with the tope part sawed off.
The dotted line is the line you now have to cut,
along the weapons lines. Be very careful not to cut in too far, the outer
pump tube is right under the cap.
Once you have the caps sawed, you can take all the
screws out and gently start to pry the two halves apart. They probably won't come
apart. You will probably have to do just a little more sawing to get it completely
This is a picture of the problem area. The
capsule around the metal puller, attached to the nozzle assembly contains the
this is a picture of the gun, apart, on the
What I do to strengthen the weak joint is get some
J.B. Steel cold weld epoxy, mix it up, and put all around the back of the Nozzle assembly,
right up to the top of the O-ring capsule.
A detailed picture of the gun apart. Notice
the shiny greyish bluish stuff right up next to the white nozzle assembly? That is
the epoxy!. I have got crumpled up sandpaper underneath it keeping it up so it
doesn't bond to the inside of the barrel shell. You will have to do
some trimming on the inside of the barrel mold for the expoxied part, since now it sticks
out futher. Also make sure to keep a sharp eye on the epoxy, it has a tendency to
run, very slowly, for about 4 to 5 hours. What I did was about every 20 min, turn
the 150 on the other side.
Another picture of the gun, this time with only
the barrel apart. You can really see the nice contrast between the trigger and the
Another great mod which helps this weapon is to
get some thin steel wire, and wrap up the spring assembly, which is a part of the whole
trigger assemble, linking the trigger to the metal puller for the nozzle. Wrap it up
so the spring has no play. What this does is stops the extreme snap the gun has when
you pull the trigger when the 150 is fully pumped. On a stock gun, you pump it up
all the way, the trigger gets very hard to pull, but when the nozzle finally opens, it
snaps open and it sounds pretty violent. Wrapping up the spring allows for faster
nozzle opening as soon as you pull the trigger.
Also, before you put the gun apart, pull the metal
puller, and put some lubricant into that little space of the puller where it goes into the
O-ring. This will help it have smoother action.
So far, this is what I have for this page.
Maybe more to come. Thanks for stopping by!