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Converting the Kenner Blaster

First, you must cut off the orange tip, down to the next larger section.
Sand the edges of the now existing hole, to a smooth finish.
Now, unscrew and open the blaster.
This is possibly the most frustrating part.
The problem is that the two ends of the scope are glued on and not easily removable.
Removing the end caps will requrie the heat from a hair dryer, some minor prying with a flat head screwdriver and a little patience.
After the blaster is pulled apart, remove the circuit board and speaker.
The whole thing, including the battery clips should
slide right out. Take the black piece, that covers the holes in the barrel, and toss it in the trash.
The next step, if you choose, is to add weight to the blaster
I hot glued 4 cut lengths of Rebar (steel rods used for concrete support).

	This example shows the use of rebar Although, you may use smooth roundstock. (shown at left ) It really is a matter of preference. Use whatever you feel is best for adding weight to the blaster. Or you may choose not to add any weight at all

One long piece of the metal rod is mounted to the inside top, of one half of the barrel.
Another long piece is mounted to the inside bottom, of the other half of the barrel .
In other words, they are mounted above and below the vent holes and can not be seen.
One short piece is also mounted to each inside wall, of the enclosed section, behind the grip.
After all pieces are secure, paint the inside of the barrel.
This is to prevent the original plastic color from showing through the vent holes.
Now snip off the existing LED light, from the electronic assembly.
With a little trimming of the inside, a 10 mm LED and holder will fit perfectly in the
hole that was created when cutting off the orange tip.

Next, slide the board, speaker, and new LED with holder, back into place.
Tape or glue the wires down, out of site.
Now it is time to screw the blaster back together.
Glue the scope ends back on and the LED and holder into place.
Smooth all seams and fill the screw holes, with epoxy putty and sand these areas.

The folding stock
Many hardware stores sell heavy duty strips of long flat metal.

Flat piece of aluminum stock

Find the appropriate width and cut two pieces, the correct length of the main stock arm.
With a Dremmel, round one end of each of the two strips and drill a hole through this same end.
These will be the ends that mount to the blaster.

*You will also want to slightly round the corners of the opposite end
Now, bend these strips, creating the appropriate curves.
Another hole will have to be drilled, toward the middle of each metal strip, to fasten the shorter folding arms.

For these arms, I used one half of these folding hinge supports.

Left Hand Right Hand Detached piece

The folding arms are available at most hardware stores. Or directly through National MFG. You will need both the left and right hand versions of the support arm You will need to drill out the existing rivet and separate the two halves, retaining only the two "swivel head" pieces.

These two short arms will be riveted to the longer arms, in the appropriate location.
Be sure that the smaller arms extend past the larger ones.

The shoulder/handle piece
This may be the hardest piece to create.
Try to find a proper size [_] shaped piece of heavy plastic.
Then cut and trim this to shape.

The end of the table hinges have a swivel head that normally would mount under the intended surface.
Attach these ends, with "JB Weld"or similar adhesive, to the inside of the handle piece.
Because this will allow the handle to swing open, the arms will have to be mounted very solid.

Insert a pull pin through the previously drilled holes, in the long arms and the new
hole, in the blaster.

A panel clip (sanded with a Dremmel), combined with a lock washer, is used to create the "teardrop".
A threaded link is attached for the front sling connection.

*Not shown are the detail pieces that make up the rear sling connection.

The mag. clip
This clip if made from a candy container called a "Bubble Beeper", found at many
grocery/ convenient stores. You may also find these at Bublegum.com

The belt clip and lid were removed and the open end trimmed to fit tight, to the side of the blaster.
This was crazy glued into place and the seams were smoothed with epoxy putty.
A curtain rod support bracket was added to the end to simulate the magazine cover cap.

Curtain rod support bracket

Curtain holder in place.

"Foil Leafing", is placed over the filler putty...

..to create a simulated weld

Now, Prime and paint the gun.
First, with a rusty colored primer, then I strongly suggest
(Black) "Hammered metal finish" paint, sprayed with many Very thin coats.
Add detailing by using a silver paint to drybrush along the vent holes and any additional spots you choose.
Outline this silver color with a drybrushing of copper metallic color paint.
Use a rust colored "wash" to add weathering to the inside angles/ ridges.
Finish by studying the blaster pic in the SW dict. and try to create most of the same "paint chips"
by using "Metal Foil Leafing".

Above is a composite photo, but I'm sure you will get the idea. There is a real gun laser, mounted to the trigger guard and black cloth tape, wrapped around the grip. Remember, It's all a lot easier then it sounds!

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