Constructing the Fuselage
The Fuselage comes in two big boxes, one the same size as the wing assembly box, the other about 3 feet by 5 feet. When
opened and parts distributed evenly about the room they form quite a collection of wood and metal pieces. The windshield
comes in a big sonoco tube all by itself, and until I pulled back a section of the protective covering, I was confused about
what the heck it was. After careful consideration, I will in fact build the fuselage in the same place as my other pieces, in the
unfurnished upstairs room of the house.
You may of course be thinking, how the hell am I going to get the plane down in one piece? Of course a fourteen foot
fuselage is too large to go down the steps. The windows of the room are completely
removable. I had planned on using a
simple pulley system and the extra aluminum square tubing from another project, to construct a small arm which would
extend out from the house by six feet or so. However, I thought up another
way. If I
simply string a heavy, taught steel cable from the inside of the room to a tree, I can use a
pulley and rope to slowly lower
the structures at an angle to the ground.
At this point, anyone following the construction is probably thinking, Why would I want to build one of these, when it takes
several years to do it? I probably could have spent all my spare time in the plane room building the plane, but as I got
married during the course of the project, I think my wife may have objected to that. If you are single or have been married a
while...... go to it.
I have completed the workbench, and after a little work the turtle decks
were completed. I also built the engine mount
base and the bulkhead for the section behind the seat. |
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I set them aside, to work on the main fuselage. The lines were quickly laid out on the table, and so far the hardest part has
been cutting all the members on long angles. For example, on piece of wood is less than one inch wide, but across this small
measure, a six inch long cut slices the end off at about fifteen degrees. A coping saw and some clamps make it easy. What I
would give for some complex, expensive power tools every so often.
I have glued up one side of the fuselage. Next I will have to
pull staples, and built the other side directly over the first.
This ensures that both sides are equal, and helps in finishing
out the fuselage. After some time, the other side of the
fuselage was cut to match, and both sides were glued up.
While attempting to glue the plywood sides on, I popped a
few glue joints, trying to square the fuselage sides to the
bench top. When I looked along the edge of the table, I
realized the top was bowed, and reworked it so the fuselage
would come out straight. The sides were covered in plywood
and the tail was covered in long gussets, leaving the tail
structure open. |
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The sides were dried and sanded on the top and bottom, and
bulkhead was placed across the section behind the seat,
making the fuselage look like an inverted boat. |
Some crosspieces were placed, and then I attempted pulling in the front around the motor mount. The first thing I realized is
the longerons do not want to bend as easy as the plywood sides, which results in the front of the plane resembles a pair of
parentheses )( if only one clamp is used. Using two clamps fixes the bow, but farther back along the fuselage, the bow is still
present, so when viewed from the end, the plane is not smoothly curved. I have to buy some more clamps, and squeeze in
the sides. Once the bottom section of plywood is put on, the curl should be controlled. I think once the wood is bent, it will
eventually relax into that shape, and not constantly be under tension. The engine mount seems to be the problem, as it is
thinner at the front than the rear, which causes the fuselage to want to bow out a lot more on the sides, kind of hard to
explain unless you can look at it. I will have pictures soon.
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O.k., so I don't have pictures yet. I went to a fly-in recently,
and checked out a max-103 I saw there. Looking down from
the front, I saw his plane still had the outward bow at the
bottom. It must be something normal to the breed. I glued in
some more wood members connecting one half to the other,
and pulled the tail end together. Everything is held in place
with expensive bar clamps. I moved between this entry and
the last one, and found that leaving the fuselage in its clamps
for three months while I could not work on it, did wonders
for the bowing. The wood relaxed into its new shape, rather
than having to be shoehorned into anything else. |
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I have stapled on the bottom of the fuse, and fit the tail
together. Lots of cross braces go into the tail section, for
strength. The thousand staples will have to be pulled, prior to
the next stage being done. I have retrofit the engine mount
base to accept the Rotax 447, even though the engine choice
is still a toss-up between it and the 2si 460F-35. It is getting
close to decision time. Whatever system I use, I will need to
order instruments and parts to fit that particular engine. I plan
to go with the EIS from grand rapids, leaving the only
mechanical gauge the altimeter. Ultralights with glass
cockpits are pretty neat, in my book. |
The tail section has a lot of cross braces, and after fitting on the bottom gussets that run the length of the tail, the bottom
cross braces go in. After letting it dry, the plane is finally turned upright, and the top part of the tail is done the same way.
Next there come diagonals down all four sides, which I have yet to complete. I have what looks like a row of smaller and
smaller squares, held together at the corners. Now, the interesting part: The fuel tank. I made a quick discovery the fuel tank
is an itty-bitty bit TOO LARGE to slide into the fuselage under the longerons. More than that, it is a trapezoid shape, so
turning it one way and then the other did not help in fitting it into the fuselage. So, with no other choice, I cut out a
cross member with a hobby saw, the the fuse bent outward enough so the tank would slide in. After some swear words, I was
able to clamp up the tank, and position the mounting brackets. The tank mounts inside the fuselage about where the pilots
legs go. The grommet and Fuel elbow were fixed into position as well. I hope to God it doesn't leak later, as I will need to
order another pack of swear words from ISON to fix the problem. The cross member
was glued in place, and I am ready to
mount the fuselage top deck and seat sections. The seat base was cut out, and the seat support will be next. I have to go back
and pull a thousand staples from the bottom of the fuselage. In interest of timesaving last time I worked on it, I left the
staples in place. The engine mount mods are complete, so I can use whatever motor I desire. It appears to have been worth
it. Further pictures are forthcoming of the entire project.
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I may have to split this into new pages, it is getting a bit long.
However.... With most of the cross braces put into the tail
section, I decided to test-fit the tail section. This simply
means sticking it on and clamping it in place temporarily
long enough to take a picture. I like the look, and everything
seems to line up right. The tail wheel and empennage
hardware need to be installed so I can really check out the fit
of everything. The fuse is right-side up for the time being,
and balances well with the tail off. The rearmost block for
the turtle deck is also in place for fit-up, but will be installed
after all cross braces are in. |
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The gas tank installation is complete, with the exception of
the AN hardware to hold the tank brackets to the fuselage
wall. Wood screws were stuck in the holes for temporary fit,
to hold the tank in place. The top brackets are resting on the
tank, and will be glued to the underside of the top deck to
hold the tank in place. I plan to put an electronic fuel gauge
sender between the brackets, as seeing the fuel level would
not be possible. The top deck has been fit and cut to shape,
but will not be glued on until the control stick and rudder
pedals are in place. It will be easier to finish construction that
way. |
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The seat base was glued in as well while working on
the gas tank. The vertical clamps are holding the rear
part of the seat support while gluing, and the
horizontal ones hold the front part. The front is cut
open for the control system. These were all easy parts
to cut and fit, only keeping track of what needs glue
and what does not is a bit tough. The seat will be held
down by screws, not glue, to allow it to flip up for
control system inspection. Undoing six screws will let
the entire seat come out The seat has been built, and
awaits installation. I have to order more glue and AN
hardware first. |
While waiting on my hardware order to come, I have begun preliminary assembly of the controls. Not having any RS-801
(UHMW polyethylene), I decided to use 1/4" thick nylon sheet, to cut some bearing blocks from. Wayne at
ISON said it
would work fine. These blocks hold down the control stick, and the flap handle, while still allowing it to turn. I have also
been confused about rudder pedals. I sat in my plane, and noticed the rudder pedals will have to be all the way at the end of
the floorboard. I'm six feet two inches tall. I also did not like the floorboard resting on the bottom of the fuselage, which
ISON suggested. Therefore, I will put in a brace under the floorboard, and rest it on that. <br>
The pedals and springs cause some concern, as they will be
so far forward, the springs would be awkward to hook up,
plus I did not like them anyway. I found a solution at Home
Depot. The reason for the springs is the pedals mount to the
floor, and the cables run back from the pedals to the rudder.
Without some type of spring attached to the bottom of the
pedal, they would simply flop over on the floor when I take
my feet off. Home Depot has some hinges with springs
inside, for self-closing doors. They look like a plain hinge,
only where the hinge pin is, the hinge is real thick. Those
hinges will eliminate the need for an external spring. |
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I finally got my metal hardware, and have begun building the
controls. I elected to part from the ISON construction plans
in one way: I got to the point where I am supposed to glue
the top deck on, and the turtle decks. Before going that far, I
am putting in the control system for the airplane. It will make
things much easier to get to, and to see inside the plane. I
turned the fuselage on it's side, and test fit the seat and the
floorboard, before putting on the second coat of paint. The
flap Bearing blocks have been installed, and the fuel tank
temporarily removed. I found the secret to removing the fuel
tank, and it works pretty good. The fuel tank is being
prepared for having a Westach Fuel Level sender installed. I
have changed my mind, and will go full analog on the
gauges, because if any one breaks, it can be replaced. If an
EIS breaks, I have to send in the whole thing, or buy a new
one. The price worked out about even for what I want in the
plane anyway. |
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I finished making the control stick and related hardware. In
the picture below, some of the bolts are missing, and not all
of the cables are hooked up, but you get the idea. It is a
simple, reliable system, with few moving parts. The next step
will be to mount the stabilizer and test out the control stick to
ensure the proper adjustment and freedom of movement. |
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Returned to its upright position, the fuselage is undergoing
construction of the turtle decks, the final major components.
They are mainly for cosmetic and aerodynamic reasons, not
for structural integrity. The front turtle deck and firewall also
houses the instrument panel and electrics. The rear turtle deck hides some cables, and the first portion of it can be made into
a storage compartment of sorts. I am not sure if I will do that
or not, but it sounds good. There is scant room elsewhere for
stored items, so it seems the best place. The red cable in the
picture is the elevator push-pull cable. I have started routing
the other wires, that will control the tail wheel and rudder. |
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I have planned the fuel system, and I am
still working on the electrical system.
See the motor page for more info on
that.... in the meantime, I have added the
panel, cut from 1/4" mahogany
plywood, and completed the rear turtle deck. The front turtle deck is
partially constructed, as I waited until I
installed the fuel tank for the last time.
Well, I will have to drop the tank once
when I put the fabric on, but I'm not
taking it out any more, unless something
is wrong with it. It is removable, but a
PAIN IN THE ASS to put back in. |
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If you look at the picture to the left,
through the cutout for the tank opening,
you can see a gray handle. That handle
is just behind the primer, in the seven or
so inch space between the panel and the
front turtle deck. I climbed into a
max-103 at a fly in, and the pilot there
had a handle in about the same place. It
helps to steady your balance climbing
in. It is a stainless steel drawer handle
from Lowe's, with inch-and-a-half #8
machine screws and AN970-3 washers
holding it to the top deck. Underneath it
is backed up with a six inch block of
RS-10. |
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After removing the clamps and putting in all the rear turtle deck
members, the
next step is forming the swing-open canopy. I lined the fuselage top deck with
wax paper, and cut and fit the RS-10 side members. At the rear side, I added a
1/8 inch piece of plywood as a spacer between F-3 and F-3A, the front curved
piece in the above picture. This space will be needed later for fabric thickness
on the front and rear. I glued the members up right on the plane, to make sure
they fit right. After the glue dried and the clamps were removed, the skin was
wrapped in place. It was tough to get on, as it wanted to slip sideways, and after
cutting, it did not fit right. I used the bag of swear words I had saved up earlier,
and got the skin to fit. I then painted it and let it dry. On the opposite side of the
canopy is the hinge which supports the canopy. You can see it here with holes
drilled, but prior to my painting the canopy, so it is not screwed in place on the
top portion yet. |
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Here you can see me fitting up the front spar carry-through.
The panel was removed temporarily, along with the canopy.
The top of the stick is visible, along with the fuel shut-off
valve. One the floor amongst the coating of sawdust, is the
right rudder cable, prior to swaging and installing the bearing
blocks. Under the front turtle deck, just in front of the coiled
blue fuel line, is the top of the fuel level probe sticking
through the top deck. The plane was cleaned up some, and
the rudder cables swaged into place. |
After ensuring everything was right, I mounted the windshield in place. For this task you REALLY need an extra pair of
hands. Four clamps just does not do it well. I used up my supply of swear words, and will order more from
ISON at the
earliest convenience. I was able to do it alone at last, but it was not easy by any means. I left the paper cover on the lexan
plastic, and will remove it only when necessary (right before the first taxi, perhaps?) to prevent any undue scratching. In this
second picture you can see my lonesome fuel gauge, all by itself. The canopy in is place and fits good, the only problem is
the latch doesn't fit quite right. The first time I latched it, it gouged a chunk out of the RS-8 longeron doubler. The second
time I closed it, the piece chipped off, and now the latch won't hold well. I am going to put a piece of 1/16" steel, about 3/4"
wide and 3 inches long, on the RS-8 piece by the latch. The latch will then grab the steel, and the steel will be
screwed/glued to the wood. No more latch problems.
No pictures yet, but the plane is on her wheels now. The bottom has been painted, and the fuel drain valve installed. I cut a
piece of aluminum plate, 1/8" thick, 3/4" high and two inches long, and mounted it where the latch closes. I feel much better
about the canopy now. There is little fuselage work to do, besides cleanup, painting, and panel installation. The motor
mount area needs a little finish work, but other than that, it is ready for the motor.
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These are pictures of the Fuel Drain
port. The left image is inside (obviously)
and the right image is outside (again,
very obvious). Although it looks like the
rudder pedal cable rubs the fuel line, it
does not. It is a good two inches away.
Two of the wires coming down go to the
fuel pump, and the other two are battery
leads, which run down and under the
floor panel. The curve in the fuel line is
there on purpose, to ensure clearance. A
hose barb and 1/8 pipe coupler sit on a
large diameter AN washer. Outside the
fuselage is another large diameter AN
washer, which a Curtis type drain valve
sits in. The drain valve screws into the
coupler, holding the two washers in
place with the fuselage floor in between. |
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I have been working on the flaps, too, and have installed the
handle and torque tube. The rudder cable runs close to the
handle, and on the plans the brackets were in the same place.
It required a small correction in the placement of the rudder
cable guide, being no big deal. I could REALLY use a
grinder right now, for making the brackets, but I will make
due without. |
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Faced with the task of grinding out lots of metal parts, I purchased a grinder. I found one in a pawn shop for twenty bucks. It
runs pretty good, weighs a ton, and is in nice shape. It could use new wheels, but for now these will do. I figured it would
save me money in the long run. The Emory cut-off wheels for my Dremel cost ten bucks for a pack of seven, and aircraft
aluminum makes short work of them. I ground the flap handle end to a curve, and rounded off some
brackets. I also finished
cutting out the flap handle notch thing, which keeps the flaps in position. I ground a 1 inch long by 3/4 inch wide strip off
my arm too. Watch out if it is YOUR first time with a grinder (don't forget where that second wheel is). The flaps are
basically complete. I mounted the handle and screwed it down tight to the torque tube. With it in the full up position, I
positioned the flap arm brackets straight up and down outside the airplane, and drilled the first one. Once it was bolted, I
checked the position again, and mounted the other bracket. I have to order some AN bolts to finish it off, but it will look nice
when done.
While working on the flap system, I also made a quick mount for my GPS. The store-bought mounts cost 30 bucks or more.
I made one for the cost of two AN bolts an a machine screw. I took two pieces of scrap aluminum angle, one-inch by one
inch, cut 3/4 inches wide. One the cut was done, I rounded of the edges, and drilled a 3/16 hole in the center of each side,
four holes in all. I mounted the first piece to the top deck of the canopy, and the second piece, to it. The remaining open hole
is for the GPS to screw into. The back of the GPS has a screw hole, meant for a cable attachment, but works just as well for
a mounting bracket. Pictures will be forthcoming. Simple and cheap. See the Panel page for pictures and more info on it.
The people at ISON were kind enough at my request to
have a red seat belt specially made for me. I am telling you,
if you want a company that will go all out for you, call ISON! My seatbelt is shown here positioned, but as you
can probably tell, the bottom part was not mounted yet. I
forgot to order the bolts, so I just threw the thing over the
seat to see how it looked. The next step was to make seat belt
cable guides, and mount them, and swage the cables. After
much trying on and adjusting, I finally bolted it to the
fuselage and swaged the cable. It fits great. |
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I am getting close to moving the plane. I finally have space which will allow me to have it near me and work whenever the
notion strikes. I have removed a lot of the metal hardware and painted it. I used aircraft zinc oxide primer (yellow), and
covered over it with Wal-Mart Krylon blue. A bad idea.. I am not sure the two paints like each other. At first the blue
scraped off easy, leaving a hard coast of yellow, but after drying for a few weeks, they seem stuck good. For parts that slide
over other parts, I polished them with Met-All metal polish. The aluminum shines like chrome. I wish I would have done all
the metal work with Met-All. My Harley-Driving friends would be jealous. There is a bit more work to do before moving it,
but once done, I can work on the fine details. Ninety percent done, ninety percent to go.
While taking the fuselage off the landing gear, I encountered a slight
problem. I removed all the screws, assuming the fuse would sit there until I
could lift it off the gear and set it down to one side. I was WRONG. As soon as
the last screw came out, the fuse dropped like a rock. I heard a sickening
crunch, and wood splintering. At first I was worried I had destroyed my landing
gear. I walked around to the starboard side of the plane, and noticed the
landing gear was fine, but it was STICKING INTO the fuselage. Not a little bit,
a lot! I removed the gear from the hole, and cut away the damaged area. After
consulting with the East Tennessee
Lonesome Buzzards, and Harold Little at Ison
Aircraft, I repaired the problem. I ended up following Harold's suggestion
of cutting a piece to fit the hole, and surrounding the inside with a patch. The
hole before repair is featured below, as well as a close-up of the rudder
control cables attach point. Both cables have one swage complete, but the excess
cable removal and second swage have not been done.
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I have started the covering process. With the GAPING HOLE in the fuselage side repaired, the large sections of the plane
are almost ready for moving, while the smaller sections (the tail pieces) have been moved already, and are currently
undergoing covering. The first section covered was the rudder, it being almost a rectangle. Easy enough. The next section
was the vertical fin, which is a bit tougher, to say the least. I had to sand the paint off the glue-down areas because the paint
will lift off when the glue solvent is put on. Afterwards I messed with the glue until I could get it the right thickness and
spread on the parts without clumping all over the place. My first piece had a wrinkle or two in it, but nothing major, and the
second piece came out even better. My last pieces of the tail are the horizontal stabilizer and elevator. The elevator has an
electric trim servo inside, so I have to get it working right prior to final assembly and covering, but then I will work on it.
I plan to wait on the covering of the fuse because I still need an engine and BRS chute, and the fabric would ruin sitting
unpainted in the sun outside.
Finally I saw the first flight of MK692. Okay, so technically is wasn't a
powered flight, but a short tethered glide. Out a window, down a cable. But, she
was in the air. It just goes to show you can build a max anywhere, even an
upstairs spare bedroom, if the window is big enough. She was transported to her
new home, reaquainted with her landing gear, and the tail is now being painted.