Misty and Jazzmin, the K9 members of my family!
Although Jazzmin is no longer with us, she lives on forever in our hearts and memories.
Misty CGC
Misty is a Siberian Husky/German Shepherd cross who was adopted at about 8 weeks old from the MSPCA. I should have known what I was getting myself into.....When I carried her out to the "Adoption Desk", I heard someone say softly..."Hey look, *Screamer* is getting a home". If you've ever been owned by a Sibe, you know how well they express themselves vocally!! She has grown into a combination garbage disposal/food tester/foot warmer. Her food bowl never needs to be washed! She loves it when I sing.....so much that she sings right along with me!
My Lady Jazzmin II CD, TT, CGC
Jazz is a German/American outcross. Her dam is an Andretti granddaughter. Her sire is a German SchHII import who now does police work in Massachusetts. Beauty and brains in one package!! Jazz had a short career in the conformation ring, running around in big circles just wasn't her thing! We dabble in the obedience ring a bit, strictly for fun and socialization! She really prefers to hang around on the deck with us and keep an eye on whatever is happening on the homefront.
* 
*
Since my girls are getting to be "old ladies" I am preparing myself for the inevitable. I've already decided that my next dog will be a standard poodle. Please email me any/all info you'd like to share on this great breed!
Thanx so much!
Canine vs. Human Instincts: Be Aware!
A **must read** if you have kids and dogs in the same household!
A Pet Owner'g Guide to the Dog Crate
How to Evaluate a Breeder
Tips for Happier and Healthier Pets and other
Animals
Far too many potentially good pets are misunderstool, unfairly punished/abused,
isolated or simply "gotten rid of" by otherwise kind and well-meaning owners
who are unable to prevent, control, or live with the common "problem" behavior
of puppies and young adult dogs. The correct use of a dog crate could give many
of these innocent animals the chance they need-and deserve-to spend their lives
as the appreciated pet of a satisfied owner.
Since EVERY dog deserves this chance, I hope you will read this information
carefully and give it some serious thought. It was really written by pet owners
just like you, since it represents the experiences of many.
WHAT IS A DOG CRATE?
A dog crate is a rectangular enclosure with a top and a door, made in a variety
of sizes proportioned to fit any type of dog. Constructed of wire, wood, metal,
or molded fiberglass/plastic, its purpose is to provide guaranteed confinement
for reasons of security, safety, housebreaking, protection of household goods,
travel, illness, or just general control.
The dog crate has long been accepted, trusted and taken for granted by dog show
exhibitors, obenience and field trial competitors, trainers, breeders, groomers,
veterinarians, and anyone else who handles dogs regularly. Individual pet owners,
however, usually reject the idea of using a crate because they consider such
enforced close confinement unfair, and even harmful to the dog.
CRUELTY - OR KINDNESS?
As The Pet Owner Sees it:
"It's like a jail-it's cruel-I'd never put MY dog in a cage like that!" If this
is your first reaction to using a crate, you are a very typical pet owner. As
a reasoning human being, you really value your freedon; and since you consider
your pet an extension of human family, it's only natural to feel that closing
him in a crate would be mean and inhumane, would probably cause him to resent
and even to hate you, and might well result in psychological damage.
BUT - YOU ARE NOT A DOG!!
As The Dog Sees It:
"I love having a room/house of my very own; it's my private special place, my
"security blanket and the closed door really doesn't bother me." If your dog
could talk, this is how he might well express his reaction to using a crate!
He would tell you that the crate helps to satisfy the "den instinct" inherited
from his den-dwelling ancestors and relatives, and that he is not afraid or
frustrated when closed in. He would further admit that he is actually much happier
and more secure hav8ing his life controlled and structured by human beings-and
would far rather be prevented from causing trouble than be punished for it later.
SO to you, it may be a "cage" BUT to him, it's "home"
WHY USE A CRATE?
A dog crate, correctly and humanely used, can have many advantages for both you and your pet. With the help of a crate
YOU:
*can enjoy complete peace of mind when leaving your dog home alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, protected, and not developing any bad habits.
* can housebreak your dog more quickly by using the close confinement to encourage control, establish a regular routine for outdoor elimination, and to prevent "accidents" at night or when left alone.
* can effectively confine your dog at times when he may be underfoot (meals, family activities, etc.) unwelcome (guests, workmen, etc.) over excited or bothered by too much confusion or too many children, or illness (a family member or your dog).
* can travel with your dog without risk of the driver being dangerously distracted or the dog getting loose and hopelessly lost, and with the assurance that he can easily adapt to any strange surroundings as long as he has his familiar "security blanket" along.
YOUR DOG:
* can enjoy the privacy and security of a "den" of his own to which he can retreat when tired, stressed or ill.
* can avoid much of the fear/confusion/punishment caused by your reaction to problem behavior (destructive chewing, house soiling, etc).
* can more easily learn to control his bowels and to associate elimination only with the outdoors or other designated location.
* can be spared the loneliness and frustration of having to be isolated (basement, garage, outside) from comfortable indoor surroundings when being restricted or left alone.
* can be conveniently included in family outings, visits, and trips instead of being left behind alone at home or in a boarding kennel.
You want to enjoy your pet and be pleased with his behavior. Your dogs wants little more from life than to please you. A dog crate can help to make your relationship what each of you wants and needs it to be.
USE-BUT DON'T ABUSE!!
The use of a dog crate is NOT recommended for a dog regularly left alone all
day and night, although some individuals may learn to tolerate it. If it is
attempted, the dog must be well exercised before and after crating, given lots
of personal attention, and be allowed complete freedom at night, including sleeping
near his owner. It is also important that the crate be large enough to permit
him to comfortably stretch out fully on his side and have ample freedom of movement.
It must also be equipped with a clip-on dish for water. Ideally, someone should
come in during the day to provide a period of attention and exercise.
In the case of a puppy, the crate must be used strictly as a "play-pen" for
general confinement, having plenty of space for a cozy box for sleeping at one
end and papers for elimination at the other, with clip-on dishes for water and
for dry food. Although a puppy can be raised in this manner, the limited human
supervision may result in his being poorly adjusted socially and difficult to
husebreak and to train in general.
Crate or no crate, any dog constantly denied the human companionship it needs
and craves is going to be a lonely pet-and may still find ways to express boredome,
anxiety, depression, and general stress.
WHAT KIND OF CRATE IS BEST?
The most practical dog crate for use by the pet owner is the collabsible wire
mesh type, available in a variety of sizes. Lightweight and easily handled,
it allows total ventilation and permits the dog to see everything going on around
him. A wooden, metal, or plastic airline crate will certainly also serve the
purpose, but it restricts air and vision and is less convenient to handle, transport
and store.
WHAT SIZE SHOULD A CRATE BE?
A crage should always be large enough to permit any age dog to stretch out flat
on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head n the
top. While the adult size of a purebred puppy is fairly easy to predict, that
of a mixed breed must be estimated based on general breed/body type and puppy
size at a given age. It is always better to use a crate a little too large than
one a little too small.
For a fully grown adult dog, measure the distance from tip of nose to base (not
tip) of tail, and use a crate close to (BUT NOT LESS THAN!) this length. The
height and width of most crates are properly proportioned to the length, including
the convenient "slant-front" models designed to fit station wagons and hatchbacks.
For a puppy, measure as above, then add about 12" for anticipated rapid growth.
If a small crate is unavailable for temporary use, reduce the space of an adult
size one (width can serve for length if the crate is large) with a reversed
carton or a moveable/removable partition made of wire, wood or masonite.
Remember that a crate too large for a young pupy defeats its purpose of providing
security and promothing bowel control, so its space should always be limited
in the beginning-except when used as an over-all pen.
WHERE CAN I GET ONE?
New crates can be purchased in retail pet shops and discount pet food/supplies
outlets, through large catalog sales firms (such as Sears), at the larger dog
shows, from dog equipment catalogs, or from a crate manufacturer. Prices depend
on size, quality, and make. Most brands include a removable metal pan/tray/floor
and some can be specially ordered tith the door on the side instead of the end.
The less expensive brands are quite adequate for most family pets, although
those made of non-plated/treated wire may discolor the coat of a light colored
dog.
A used crate can often be borrowed or found a a tag, garage, yard, or rummage
sale at a bargain price.
WHERE SHOULD I PUT IT?
Since one of the main reasons for using a crate is to confine a dog without
making him feel isolated or banished, it should be placed in, or as close as
possible to, a "people" area--kitchen, family room etc. To provide an even greater
sense of den security and privacy, it should be put in a corner and/or have
the sides and back loosely draped with a sheet, large towel, or light blanket
which can easily be adjusted for desired visability or air. The top of the crate,
when covered with a piece of plywood or masonite, can also serve as handy extra
shelf or table space.
Admittedly, a dog crate is not a "thing of beauty"-but it can be forgiven for
not being a welcome addition to the household decor as it proves how much it
can help the dog to reamin a welcome addition to the household!
CRATING THE PUPPY
A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally have no problem acepting a crate
as his "own" place. Any complaining he might do at first is caused not by the
crate, but by his learning to accept the controls of his unfamiliar new environment.
Actually, the crate will help him to adapt more easily and quickly to his new
world.
How To Use It:
Place the crate in a "people" area--the kitchen, if possible, in a spot free
from drafts and not too near a direct heat source. For bedding, use an old towel
or piece of blanket which can be washed (should he have an accident) and some
freshly worn unlaundered article of your clothing such as a tee shirt, old shirt,
sweater, etc. Avoid putting newspaper in or under the crate since its odor may
encourage elimination; corrugated cardboard is better if there is no floor pan.
A puppy need not be fed in the crate and will only upset a dish of water.
Make it very clear to children that the crate is NOT a playhouse for them, but
a "special room" for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected.
However, you should accustom the puppy from the start to letting you reach into
the crate at any time, lest he become overprotective of it.
Establish a "crate routine" immediately, closing the puppy in it at regular
1 to 2 hour intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times will guide you)
whenever he must be left alone for 3-4 hours, and during any short eriod when
he can't be closely supervised by a responsible person. Be sure to remove collar
with tags which could become caught in an opening. At night, in the beginning,
you may prefer to place the crate, with the door left open and newspapers nearby,
in a small enclosed area such as a bathroom, laundry room, or hall; crying/complaining
at 5 AM is easier to endure/ignore if you know that the puppy is not uncomfortable.
Once adjusted to his new life, and if he has no intestinal upset, he will soon
show greater bowel control by eliminating only once, or not at all, and then
may be crated all night in his regular place.
Even if things do not go too smoothly at first-DON'T WEAKEN and DON'T WORRY!
Be consistent, be firm and be very aware that you are doing your pet a real
favor by preventing him from getting into trouble while left alone or not being
properly supervised. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
Increase the space inside the crate as the puppy grows so that he remains comfortable.
If you do not choose, or are not able, to use a crate permanently, plan to use
it for at least 5 or 6 months or until the dog is well past the teething phase-then
start leaving the crate door open at night, when someone is at home during the
day, or when he is briefly left alone. If all goes well for a week or two, and
the dog seems reliable when left alone, remove the rate itself and leave the
bedding in the same spot; although he will probably miss the crate enclosure,
that spot will have become "his own place" and his habit of good behavior should
continue. Should any problem behavior occur at a future time, however, the decidion
whether or not to use a crate longer, or perhaps permanently, will have been
made for you!
Even after a long period without a crate, a dog which has been raised in one
will readily accept it again should the need arise for travel, illness, behavior,
etc. and may really welcome its return.
CRATING THE ADULT DOG
Much of the usual problem behavior of an older puppy (over 6 months) or an adult
dog is caused by the lack of a feeling of security when left alone. Although
a crate can fulfill this need, and hence hopefully solve the problems, it must
still be introduced gradually, with every possible effort made to be sure that
the dog's first association with it is very positive and pleasant. It must also
be stressed again here that a dog crate is not intended for frequent long-hours
usage for the convenience of an absent owner.
How To Use It:
If possible, borrow or rent a crate of adequate size. Place it in a location
where the dog will definietly feel part of the human family (though still have
some privacy) secure the door open so that it can't unexpectedly shut and frighten
him, and do not put in any bedding. Encourage the dog to investigate this new
object thoroughly, luring him inside my tossing "special" tidbits (cheese, liver,
hot dog pieces, etc. which are even more tempting than regular dog treats) into
the far end, then letting him turn and come back out-praising him enthusiastically.
When he begins to enter the crate confidently, place the bedding and something
of yours or a towel you have slept with inside and start coaxing him to lie
down and relax, still using food if necessary. Continue this pattern for several
days, encouraging him to use the crate as much as possible and shutting the
door briefly while you sit beside him or there are people visible and/or audible
nearby. Do not hesitate, however, to meed modest resistance with consistent
firmness and authority so that the dog is clearly aware of the behavior you
desire; your goal may have to be acceptance, not contentment.
As soon as you feel confident that the dog will remain quietly in the closed
crate (which could be from the beginning) you may safely leave him alone. Give
him a chew toy or a safe bone to absorb his attention and be sure tht he has
nothing around his neck which might become caught. If you are still uncertain
or anxious, leave him at first for only a brief period (1/2 to 1 hour) until
he has proved that he will not resist the confinement. Once he has acfepted
the crate as his bed and own "special place" your pet can stop being a problem
and start being a pleasure! In due time it may even be possible to wean him
gradually off the crate without his resuming any problem behavior.
DOES THE CRATE ALWAYS WORK?
Unfortunately, no. Although a crate can indeed be used successfully by most
pet owners, there are always those animals which simply can or will not tolerate
this form of confinement. This reaction is not nearly as common with a young
puppy (but it does happen) as with an adult dog, especially an "adoptee" of
unknown background, a dog which may somehow have suffered a traumatic frightening
experience while crated, or an unadaptable "senior citizen". Some purebred breeds
seem to have a special aversion to crates or show no desire to keep one clean.
In some cases, a dog will use a crate readily as long as the door remains open,
but will object violently the moment it is closed and/or he is left alone. It
should be stressed here, however, that these reactions definitely represent
the exception rather than the rule, and that most average pet dogs can be successfully
trained to use a crate.
If, despite every effort at positive conditioning and real firmness, a dog is
obciously frantic or totally miserable when confined to a crate, forcing him
to use one is indeed inhumane and can result in real physical injury should
he attempt to chew his way out.
Even though a crate may not always work, it IS always worth a try-because when
it DOES prevent or solve problem behavior it is truly the "best friend" you
and your dog could ever have.
by Nicki Meyer
for pamphlets, write to:
NICKI MEYER EDUCATIONAL EFFORT, Inc.
31 Davis Hill Road
Weston, CT 06883
(203)226-9877
back to the top
* *
The reputable breeder is like the head of a family. He feels responsibility toward the breed itself, toward the dogs he breeds, the dogs he hopes to breed, and additionally to all the people who have dogs of his breeding. He spends astonishing amounts of his time and money on matters he thinks are for the best interests of his breed.
It is this awareness of responsibility, combined with a sense of continuity, that marks the difference between the true breeder and a mere "puppy raiser". The breeder is an artist, motivated by a desire to create perfection; the puppy-raisers and the dog dealers are motivated by the desire to make money. They are truly in the dog business, selling puppies like over-the-counter commodities to anyone who can pay the price.
The breeder is the link between the past and the future. Since he is well aware that the buyers of today may be the breeders of tomorrow, he does his best to educate the people who come to buy his dogs, and to instill in them the ideals and values on which he has built his reputation.
Fortunate is the novice buyer who purchases his first dog from a reputable breeder! Whereas puppu-raisers may sell whole litters to dog-dealers, the breeder insists on direct contact with those who buy his dogs, and sells only after the most careful screening of a would-be purchaser in order to ascertain the mutual suitability of dog and buyer.
While often not fully appreciated until the dog is bought, this screening by the breeder is the greatest protection a dog purchaser can have.
The puppy-raisers and the dog dealers are often high-powered salesmen. They don't ask questions-their only concern is to sell dogs, and often get them off their hands as soon as possible in order to avoid additional expense and work. Their interest ends when the sale is completed.
The attitude of the reputable breeder is very different. Though the cost of
properly caring for his dogs may cause him sleepless nights and untold worries,
he will never let a single puppy or older dog leave for a home that is not as
good or better than the one he is providing. Even when the dog is sold, the
breeder's help and advice does not end but continues throughout the dogs life.
(reprinted from Kennel Review)
** My DogDaze Awards **
THANX so much!
And now..... surf on!
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Welcome to the AKC
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