I like to raise my tadpoles individually, although tadpoles from the same clutch can be raised communally in many species. Once the eggs hatch they are transferred, separately, to a small glass jar that is filled 1/4 inch deep with aged tap water. The water level is kept especially shallow for the first week, as newly hatched tadpoles can drown. After the first week water level is raised to 1-2". I like to float my jars in a aquarium to help maintain a more constant temperature near 73 degrees Fahrenheit. An aquarium heater prevents it getting too cold. The volume of water helps prevent heat spikes. This also provides a close source of aged aquarium water.

A tadpoles first food should be exceptionally fine. A 50/50 mix of chlorella and spirulinia powder work great. These products are available in heath food stores. Tablet forms of these algae may also be crushed and used if powder forms are not available, but are not preferred. Feed sparingly at first. When in powder form these algae can foul the water rapidly.

After two weeks, I switch to chunk food to help keep the water cleaner. Chunks are made by mixing the algae powders with a little water until pasty and then allowing the mix to dry. Once dried the mix can be broken into small chunks and fed to the tadpoles. This greatly reduces water fouling. Sometimes I’ll add approximately 20% Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica ) powder to the mix. Stinging Nettles are easy plants to grow and an excellent source of nutrients. To prepare nettles for use, carefully remove a quantity of leaves and dry them in the sun or by the heat of a gas oven’s pilot light. Once dry, nettles loose their sting. A mini coffee grinder works great for turning dried leaves into usable powder. Just don’t let your roommate see you.

Dart frog water doesn’t need to be kept immaculately clean. Do a complete water change twice a week for the first two weeks. Once a week is enough after that if you’re not overfeeding. It is likely that tadpoles reconsume their waste, extracting extra nutrients from it. Mouth fungus due to moderately dirty water is unlikely with tadpoles that are feeding regularly. To clean tadpole jars a turkey baster is utilized to carefully suck out the dirty water. I refill the jars with the aged aquarium water from tank that the jars are floating in. The tank is planted and the glass sides are allowed to become quite algaeic to condition the water.

The tadpole’s rear legs develop first and slowly. Front legs develop under the tadpole’s skin and seem to suddenly pop out, usually one side first. Once front legs develop, the tadpole will start to absorb its tail. During this time it is important to lower the water level to where the frog is just barely covered. The amount of food given should also be greatly reduced. As the tail is absorbed, the frog will feed little if at all.

Once the tail is roughly 1/8th of an inch the froglet may be transferred to land. The frog may also be allowed to come out of the water at its own pace by slanting the jar. Be aware that some species learn to climb glass rather quicky. You may want to use some type of lid at this point. D. auratus take just under 2 months time to develop into froglets at 73-75f. D. tinctorius, azureus and leucomeleas take longer. Higher temperatures will shorten development time, but are likely to produce smaller frogs. Temperatures that are too high or low may produce deformities.