February 20, 1999

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London Travel Journal

Saturday

We rise early, shower, and enjoy yet another delicious English breakfast. And another lovely weather day, as well! First order of business is to find a post office for the postcards I wrote last night. I find one on Kensington Church Street, in the direction of the Notting Hill Gate station.

We tube to St. Paul's Station, and tour Christopher Wren's masterpiece (and final resting place), St. Paul's Cathedral, (entrance fee £6), the site of the marriage of Princess Di and Prince Charles. Many of us will never forget that historical day. I cannot begin to describe the interior of St. Paul's. It is simply breathtaking. St. Paul's was built in the late 17th century, following earlier churches which had been on the site since 604. It is the Cathedral of the Diocese of London. Again, we choose a self-guided audio tour (£2), which is excellent. More statues and memorials and famous graves in the crypt ~ John Donne (former Dean here); the first Duke of Wellington; Lord Admiral Nelson...the list goes on. The Dome, third largest in the world, is stunning. It is a mystery to me how a human being could have created something this beautiful. I am speechless, and spend the next hour in silent reverence.

Our next stop was Knightsbridge ~ Harrod's. This famous landmark store is Egyptian-owned and sits on 15-acres! Their motto is "Omnia, omnibus, ubique." ("everything, for everyone, everywhere"). We were there on Saturday and it was elbow-to-elbow people, but what an experience! There are 230 departments within this museum of a store, including a pet shop rumored to supply you with everything from aardvarks to zebras on request. I knew our time there was limited, so I chose to do my shopping in the magnificant Food Halls, in particular, the Tea/Coffee Hall. Only the best tea is sold here, and is from France, Betjeman & Barton, (although the tins all read, "Harrod's."). I ended up purchasing Four Red Fruits, Blackcurrant, and Pouchkine (rumoured to be Prince Charles' favorite tea), and some others for friends.

We left Harrod's and walked to one of the neighborhood Reject China Shops, then went for a little bite to eat at a pub just around the corner, The Tea Clipper. Darling place. It was here I had my first fish and chips, and it was yummy! Adding to the pub experience was an England v. Scotland rugby game on the telly! Perfect timing.

Later, heading back to the hotel, we stop in for a Cream Tea The Muffin Man, a tea room recommended by tea author ("Tea With Friends"), Elizabeth Knight. What a delightful spot for tea! The place was packed at 4:00, and we were fortunate enough to be seated upstairs. We ordered a Cream Tea, which was wonderful! I had Earl Gray, Mary ordered The Muffin Man Blend. The china was standard restaurant-grade, but no matter .... the scones were the best I've ever had. They were cut in half and toasted, (no, they were not crumpets) and I can still taste them.

Once back at the hotel, we changed clothes, and headed out again for a concert which we saw advertised on the hotel bulletin board: "Bach By Candlelight" at St. Martin-in-the-Fields. Short queue, tickets were a steal at only £6, and the music was wonderful! A full evening by The London Octave ~ beginning with my favorite by Bach, the "Concerto for 2 Violins in D Minor." (You are listening to it now.) More music followed: Pachelbal's "Canon;" a couple of other Bach pieces; and Vivaldi's "Four Seasons." All by candlelight, in this lovely little church. What a perfect ending to a perfect day.