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Capters 1-50

1. Counterfeiting Money by The Jolly Roger Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you. Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process. Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one. Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill. The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc. As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond". If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck! 2. Credit Card Fraud by The Jolly Roger For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now: With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it. Step One: Getting the credit card information First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy. First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information. Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given. Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies Card example: [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE Explanation: MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke. [Mastercard] 5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY JOE SHMOE Explanation: XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first. [Visa] 4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X) MM/YY MM/YY*VISA JOE SHMOE Explanation: Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows: [1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card [2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card [3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases. Step Three: Testing credit You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is OK, and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels". Step Four: The drop Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites: [1] An empty house An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs. [2] Rent A Spot U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives. [3] People's houses Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people. Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before. Step Five: Making the transaction You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site. The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order. If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck! 3. Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows. First off, you must obtain: 1.A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.) 2.A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer 3.A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals) 4.Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores) Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge. Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate. Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used. The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article. You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing: Information Publishing Co. Box 10042 Odessa, Texas 79762 4. Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake. The first number: Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination. The second number: Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of the combination. The third number: After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right. This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now). 5. The Arts of Lockpicking I by The Jolly Roger Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene. Automobiles: Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So: American Locksmith Service P.O. Box 26 Culver City, CA 90230 ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling. Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So: Lock Technology Corporation 685 Main St. New Rochelle, NY 10801 LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling. The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by: Steck MFG Corporation 1319 W. Stewart St. Dayton, OH 45408 For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around. Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So: A MFG 1151 Wallace St. Massilon, OH 44646 Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool. If you are too lazy to pick auto locks: Veehof Supply Box 361 Storm Lake, IO 50588 VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set. Updated Lockpicking: For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows: Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens. Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking. Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work, the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger. Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly. There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by: Fed Corporation P.O. Box 569 Scottsdale, AR 85252 The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including government, high security, and medicos), although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidebar locks, although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds? $235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling. For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software. If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance... The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard welding igniter. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is available from: C.O.L. MFG 7748 W. Addison Chicago, IL 60634 6. The Arts of Lockpicking II by The Jolly Roger So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood, because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick. First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever). The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock: ______________________________ \ K | | | | | | / E | | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin ^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall / L (This is a greatly simplified \ E drawing) ______________________________/ The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open. Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that, you will quickly improve with practice. 7. Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox. Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought at K-Mart, and various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in the WWII era. Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy source is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose. Making the mixture: 1.Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder possible. 2.The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar. 3.Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio. It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned! 8. High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox - Rev.2 by The Jolly Roger I. Introduction Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color of ours. The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To fabricate a beigebox, follow along. II. Construction and Use The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green, yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not necessary for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black) leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red alligator clip. To the end of the green wire attach a green alligator clip. The yellow and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a phone. III. Beige Box Uses There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it, you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e. remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.) To open most Bell Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver (or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also). This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store. With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately 1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked, then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if not labeled, usually on the right). Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip (Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal. Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal. Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone. Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use your own). Here are some practical applications: Eavesdropping Long distance, static free, free fone calls to phriends Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static) Phucking people over Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line Eavesdropping To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping, it is always best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number. Dialing Long Distance This section is self explanatory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before the NPA. Dialing Direct to Alliance Teleconferencing Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there. I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception and are more difficult to come by. Phucking People Over This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition, since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls. This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause of the problem. Bothering the Operator This is also self explanatory and can provide hours of entertainment. Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section, Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to? Blue Boxing See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice feature if you live in an ESS-equipped prefix, since the calls are, once again, not traced to your line... IV. POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicions within the Gestapo, and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recommend you: Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing, Use more than one output device Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real name on a public BBS concerning your accomplishments) In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output device, I recommend you place a piece of transparent tape over the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is opened in your absence, the tape will be displaced and you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded on your territory. Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content. 9. How to make a CO bomb by the Jolly Roger You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse. I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse, but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!! 10. Thermite II by Jolly Roger Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time: Get a DC converter like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off, separate the wires, and strip them both. Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water conductive. Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the converter in...) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!). Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right? Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!) Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams. Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it... Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite. However, magnesium ribbon (which is sort of hard to find.. call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite. Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood, the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. 11. Touch Explosives by the Jolly Roger This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe: Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!). Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully! Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh? They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds, football games, concerts, etc.) 12. Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust. Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space (such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient... Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. You know, the type that is double layered. Separate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is your bomb!! Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain. Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human flesh!). 13. Paint Bombs by The Jolly Roger To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple, or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place!! 14. Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive (for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops). Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the way through the pavement! Tape a CO bomb to the hood, axle, gas tank, wheel, muffler, etc. Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball, or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank. Put potatoes, rocks, bananas, or anything that will fit, into the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the tailpipe. Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it... Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo. Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like this: Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders on the seats!) 15. Do you hate school? by The Jolly Roger One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course, you will probably have to make it up in the summer). Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!). Use a smoke grenade in the hallway. Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards inside if they are (gag) IBM. Make friends with student assistants and have them change your grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards. Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry! Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal is a fascist. Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car. USE YOUR IMAGINATION! 16. Phone related vandalism by the Jolly Roger If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!) 17. Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to 10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonator). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 GHz. Or more often on the X band at 1025 GHz. most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts at 1025 GHz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in Burlington, Massachusetts and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers' for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proof enclosure behind the PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and triggering their radar detectors! PS If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds of neat things! 18. Smoke Bombs by the Jolly Roger Here is the recipe for one hell of a smoke bomb! 4 parts sugar 6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter) Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well. Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke! 19. Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger 1.Two liter bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate) 2.Small amount of sugar 3.Small amount of water Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city. 20. The easiest way to hot-wire cars by the Jolly Roger Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it's enclosed, forget it unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take off! 21. How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container. Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup. Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused stuff lasts a long time! 22. How to make a fertilizer bomb by The Jolly Roger Ingredients: Newspaper Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO) Cotton Diesel fuel Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet so don't do it in an alley!! 23. Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger Ingredients: Strike anywhere matches A tennis ball A nice sharp knife Duct tape Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!! 24. Diskette Bombs by The Jolly Roger You need: A disk Scissors White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!) Clear nail polish 1.Carefully open up the diskette (3" disks are best for this!) 2.Remove the cotton covering from the inside. 3.Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper, metal might spark the matchpowder!) 4.After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk. 5.Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture 6.Let it dry 7.Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart). When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). Let the fuckhead try and fix THAT!!! 25. Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service rep would call the customer service number for billing information in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER, no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might want to check into getting a criss-cross directory, which lists phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple hundred bucks, but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two numbers down! 26. Fuses by The Jolly Roger You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable. SLOW BURNING FUSE - 2 inches per minute Materials needed: Cotton string or 3 shoelaces Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate Granulated sugar Procedure: 1.Wash the cotton string or shoelaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse with fresh water 2.Mix the following together in a glass bowl: 1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate 1 part granulated sugar 2 parts hot water 3.Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution 4.Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry 5.Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!! FAST BURNING FUSE - 40 inches per minute Materials needed: Soft cotton string Fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!) Shallow dish or pan Procedure: 1.Moisten powder to form a paste. 2.Twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together. 3.Rub paste into string and allow to dry. 4.Check the burn rate!!! 27. How to make Potassium Nitrate by The Jolly Roger Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other things. Here is how you make it: Materials needed: 3 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material cup of wood ashes Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume 2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the bottom of the bucket Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket Shallow, heat resistant container 2 gallons of water Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket 1 gallon of any type of alcohol A heat source Paper & tape Procedure: 1.Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the metal is "puckered" outward from the bottom. 2.Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom. 3.Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire cloth and has about the same thickness. 4.Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes. 5.Place the dirt or other material in the bucket. 6.Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not blocked. 7.Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom. 8.Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom. 9.Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth! 10.Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so. 11.Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the sludge in the bottom. 12.Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they form. 13.When the liquid has boiled down to its original volume let it sit. 14.After hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This is the potassium nitrate. Purification: 1.Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water. 2.Remove any crystals that appear. 3.Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness. 4.Spread out crystals and allow to dry. 28. Exploding Lightbulbs by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: Lightbulb (100w) Socket (duh...) cup soap chips Blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!) cup kerosene or gasoline Adhesive tape Lighter or small blowtorch Glue Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb: 1.Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads! 2.Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so that it touches the filament! 3.Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or else YOU will be the victim!!) 4.Get the hell out!! Procedure for a Napalm Bulb: 1.Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler. 2.Melt soap chips, stirring slowly. 3.Put somewhere and allow to cool. 4.Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue. Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!! 5.Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the fluid. 6.Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently used by the victim and get the hell out!! When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise! 29. Under water igniters by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: Pack of 10 silicon diodes. (Available at Radio Shack. You will know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass objects!) Pack of matches 1 candle Procedure: 1.Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the top. 2.Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that one wraps in an upward direction and then sticks out to the side. Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER! 3.Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These work underwater 4.Repeat to make as many as you want. How to use them: When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. 30. Home-brew blast cannon by The Jolly Roger Materials needed: 1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 inches in diameter. 1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter. 1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!) 1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe. 5 feet of bellwire. 1 SPST rocker switch. 16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery. 15v relay (get this at Radio Shack). Electrical Tape. One free afternoon. Procedure: Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends. Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should screw together easily. Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the level on the lighter: /------------------------gas switch is here V /------ !lighter!!<---metal lever!! Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly. Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch. Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top. Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!' Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top. 1--------------- v/ 2--------------/<--the center object is the metal finger inside the relay 3 cc-------------/ oo----------------4 ii ll----------------5 Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks. Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!) You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch. Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run! To Test: Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing (trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozen orange through or plywood at 25 feet. 31. Chemical Equivalency list by The Jolly Roger Acacia................................................................Gum Arabic Acetic Acid..............................................................Vinegar Aluminum Oxide............................................................Alumia Aluminum Potassium Sulphate.................................................Alum Aluminum Sulfate............................................................Alum Ammonium Carbonate.....................................................Hartshorn Ammonium Hydroxide.......................................................Ammonia Ammonium Nitrate......................................................Salt Peter Ammonium Oleate.....................................................Ammonia Soap Amylacetate...........................................................Banana Oil Barium Sulfide.........................................................Black Ash Carbon Carbinate...........................................................Chalk Carbontetrachloride...............................................Cleaning Fluid Calcium Hypochloride............................................Bleaching Powder Calcium Oxide...............................................................Lime Calcium Sulfate.................................................Plaster of Paris Carbonic Acid............................................................Seltzer Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide......................................Ammonium Salt Ethylinedichloride...................................................Dutch Fluid Ferric Oxide...........................................................Iron Rust Furfuraldehyde..........................................................Bran Oil Glucose...............................................................Corn Syrup Graphite.............................................................Pencil Lead Hydrochloric Acid..................................................Muriatic Acid Hydrogen Peroxide.......................................................Peroxide Lead Acetate.......................................................Sugar of Lead Lead Tero-oxide.........................................................Red Lead Magnesium Silicate..........................................................Talc Magnesium Sulfate.....................................................Epsom Salt Methylsalicylate................................................Winter Green Oil Naphthalene............................................................Mothballs Phenol.............................................................Carbolic Acid Potassium Bicarbonate............................................Cream of Tarter Potassium Chromium Sulfate............................................Chromealum Potassium Nitrate.....................................................Salt Peter Sodium Oxide................................................................Sand Sodium Bicarbonate...................................................Baking Soda Sodium Borate..............................................................Borax Sodium Carbonate....................................................Washing Soda Sodium Chloride.............................................................Salt Sodium Hydroxide.............................................................Lye Sodium Silicate............................................................Glass Sodium Sulfate....................................................Glauber's Salt Sodium Thiosulfate...........................................Photographer's Hypo Sulfuric Acid.......................................................Battery Acid Sucrose...............................................................Cane Sugar Zinc Chloride.....................................................Tinner's Fluid Zinc Sulfate.......................................................White Vitriol 32. Phone Taps by The Jolly Roger Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder control relay to the phone line. First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different types of taps. There are transmitters, wired taps, and induction taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be physically connected to the line before they will do any good. Once a wireless tap is connected to the line, it can transmit all conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have to do is replace the original mike with this and it will transmit all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings and blows a whistle over the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at 415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be hooked up to a transmitter or be wired. Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone: A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the cubes fall away unnoticed. A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is doing when you are war-dialing, hacking, or just plain calling a bbs. Here is the schematic: -------)!----)!(-------------> )!( Cap ^ )!( )!( )!( )!( ^^^^^---)!(-------------> ^ 100K ! ! You have now 'seized' a trunk. After this, switch to multi-frequency and dial: KP-0-700-456-x00x-ST KP = KP tone on Blue Box x = variable between 1 and 3 ST = ST tone on Blue Box The equipment now thinks that the operator has dialed Alliance from her switchboard and the conference shall be billed there. Since Blue Boxing is such a large topic, this is as far as I will go into it's uses. Billing to a loop: A third method of receiving a free conference is by billing out to a loop. A loop is 2 numbers that when two people call, they can talk to each other. You're saying woop-tee-do right? Wrong! Loops can be useful to phreaks. First, dial alliance direct. After going through the beginning procedure, which will be discussed later in this tutorial, dial 0 and wait for an Alliance operator. When she answers tell her you would like to bill the conference to such and such a number. (A loop where your phriend is on the other side) She will then call that number to receive voice verification. Of course your phriend will be waiting and will accept the charges. Thus, the conference is billed to the loop. Billing to call forwarding: When you dial a number that is call forwarded, it is first answered by the original location, then forwarded. The original location will hang up if 2600hz is received from only one end of the line. Therefore, if you were to wait after the forwarded residence answered, you would receive the original location's dial tone. Example: Dial 800-325-4067 The original residence would answer, then forward the call, a second type of ringing would be heard. When this second residence answers simply wait until they hang up. After about twenty seconds you will then receive the original residence's dial tone since it heard 2600hz from one end of the line. Simply dial Alliance from this point and the conference will be billed to the original residence. These are the four main ways to receive a free conference. I am sure many more exist, but these four are quite handy themselves. Logon Procedure: Once Alliance answers you will hear a two-tone combination. This is their way of saying 'How many people do you want on the conference dude?' Simply type in a 2-digit combination, depending on what bridge of Alliance you are on, between 10 and 59. After this either hit '*' to cancel the conference size and input another or hit '#' to continue. You are now in Alliance Teleconferencing and are only seconds away from having your own roaring conference going strong!!! Dialing in Conferees: To dial your first conferee, dial 1+npa+pre+suff and await his/her answer. npa = area code pre = prefix suff = suffix If the number is busy, or if no one answers simply hit '*' and your call will be aborted. But, if they do answer, hit the '#' key. This will add them to the conference. Now commence dialing other conferees. Joining Your Conference: To join your conference from control mode simply hit the '#' key. Within a second or two you will be chatting with all your buddies. To go back into control mode, simply hit the '#' key again. Transferring Control: To transfer control to another conferee, go into control mode, hit the # 6+1+npa+pre+suff of the conferee you wish to give control to. If after, you wish to abort this transfer hit the '*' key. NOTE: Transfer of control is often not available. When you receive a message stating this, you simply cannot transfer control. Muted Conferences: To request a muted conference simply hit the 9 key. I am not exactly sure what a muted conference is but it is probably a way to keep unwanted eavesdroppers from listening in. Dialing Alliance Operators: Simply dial 0 as you would from any fone and wait for the operator to answer. Ending Your Conference: To end your conference all together, that is kick everyone including yourself off, go into control mode and hit '*'...after a few seconds simply hang up. Your conference is over. Are Alliance Operators Dangerous? No. Not in the least. The worst they can do to you while you are having a conference is drop all conferees including yourself. This is in no way harmful, just a little aggravating. Alliance and Tracing: Alliance can trace, as all citizens of the United States can. But this has to all be pre-meditated and AT&T has to be called and it's really a large hassle, therefore, it is almost never done. Alliance simply does not want it known that teenagers are phucking them over. The only sort of safety equipment Alliance has on-line is a simple pen register. This little device simply records all the numbers of the conferees dialed. No big deal. All Alliance can do is call up that persons number, threaten and question. However, legally, they can do nothing because all you did was answer your fone. NOTE: Almost all instructions are told to the person in command by Alliance recordings. A lot of this tutorial is just a listing of those commands plus information gathered by either myself or the phellow phreaks of the world!!! 38. Aqua Box Plans by The Jolly Roger Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreaded FBI 'Lock In Trace'. For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace. This box does offer an escape route with simple directions to it. This box is quite a simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic electronics knowledge can construct and use it. The Lock In Trace A lock in trace is a device used by the FBI to lock into the phone users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress. For those of you who are not familiar with the concept of 'locking in', then here's a brief description. The FBI can tap into a conversation, sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there, they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections are held open by a certain voltage of electricity. That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand better about that, for call waiting intercepts the electricity and makes a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter of which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver, then it see-saws the electricity to the other side. When you have a person on each line it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up. If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring. That should give you an understanding of how calling works. Also, when electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity causes a bell to ring, or on some newer phones an electronic ring to sound.) So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting about a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the voltage level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using the bell service three way calling (which is only $3 a month) become quite faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out the FBI voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain the exact voltage necessary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you can "flash" voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So, some modifications have to be done. Materials A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug into a light bulb. One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your own... Same voltage connection, but the restrainer must be built in (I.E. The central box) Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to plug the aqua box into) Some creativity and easy work. Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so don't go out and buy a new phone for it! Procedure All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into the electrical appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock you in with. 1.Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have only two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the electrical appliance is turned off unless you want to become a crispy critter while making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside. Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...) then just cut the top off. When you look inside, Low and Behold, you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires connecting in. Those wires conduct the power into the appliance. So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't want to keep the jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the prongs with insulation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power is being drained from the line. 2.Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other. If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the phone, stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it. That box is your ticket out of this. 3.Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at it then you can solder away at it and form the whole device into one big box, with some kind of cheap Mattel hand-held game inside to be the power connector. In order to use it, just keep this box handy. Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks, unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it. Use ---- Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this unless the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source... The voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light bulb should drain it all in and probably short the FBI computer at the same time. 39. Hindenberg Bomb by The Jolly Roger Needed: 1 Balloon 1 Bottle 1 Liquid Plumber 1 Piece Aluminum foil 1 Length Fuse Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumber and add a little piece of aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise. When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!! 40. How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands by The Jolly Roger This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell of the best places to strike and kill an enemy. When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake. There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy. Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out. The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead. When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are: 1.The knife edge of your hands. 2.Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle. 3.The protruding knuckle of your second finger. 4.The heel of your hand. 5.Your boot 6.Elbows 7.Knees 8.Your Teeth. Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength. At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has two purposes. 1.To frighten and confuse your enemy. 2.To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your enemy are two important factors; since, if you succeed in making your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart, with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kind of like a boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of the body. We will cover them now: Eyes: Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion. Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this will shove the bone up into the brain causing death. Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of minutes. Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down, kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again. Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object. Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are extremely close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme pain, and unconsciousness. Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause internal bleeding in the brain. Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee hard, and he'll buckle over very fast. Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge of your hand can cause death. There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should work best for the average person. This is meant only as information and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl. Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger. Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend. (You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.) 41. Phone Systems Tutorial III by The Jolly Roger Preface: This article will focus primarily on the standard western electric single- Slot coin telephone (aka fortress fone) which can be divided into 3 types: dial-tone first (dtf) coin-first (cf): (i.e., it wants your $ before you receive a dial tone) dial post-pay service (pp): you payafter the party answers Depositing coins (slugs): Once you have deposited your slug into a fortress, it is subjected to a Gamut of tests. The first obstacle for a slug is the magnetic trap. This will stop any light-weight magnetic slugs and coins. If it passes this, the slug is then classified as a nickel, dime, or Quarter. Each slug is then checked for appropriate size and weight. If These tests are passed, it will then travel through a nickel, dime, or quarter Magnet as appropriate. These magnets set up an eddy current effect which Causes coins of the appropriate characteristics to slow down so they Will follow the correct trajectory. If all goes well, the coin will follow the Correct path (such as bouncing off of the nickel anvil) where it will Hopefully fall into the narrow accepted coin channel. The rather elaborate tests that are performed as the coin travels down the Coin chute will stop most slugs and other undesirable coins, such as Pennies, which must then be retrieved using the coin release lever. If the slug miraculously survives the gamut, it will then strike the Appropriate totalizer arm causing a ratchet wheel to rotate once for every 5-cent increment (e.g., a quarter will cause it to rotate 5 times). The totalizer then causes the coin signal oscillator to readout a dual-frequency signal indicating the value deposited to acts (a computer) or the Tsps operator. These are the same tones used by phreaks in the infamous red boxes. For a quarter, 5 beep tones are outpulsed at 12-17 pulses per second (pps). A dime causes 2 beep tones at 5 - 8 pps while a nickel causes one beep tone at 5 - 8 pps. A beep consists of 2 tones: 2200 + 1700 hz. A relay in the fortress called the "B Relay" (yes, there is also an 'a relay') places a capacitor across the speech circuit during totalizer readout to prevent the "customer" from hearing the red box tones. In older 3 slot phones: one bell (1050-1100 hz) for a nickel, two bells for a dime, and one gong (800 hz) for a quarter are used instead of the modern dual-frequency tones. TSPS & ACTS While fortresses are connected to the co of the area, all transactions are handled via the traffic service position system (tsps). In areas that do not have acts, all calls that require operator assistance, such as calling card and collect, are automatically routed to a tsps operator position. In an effort to automate fortress service, a computer system known as automated coin toll service (acts) has been implemented in many areas. Acts listens to the red box signals from the fones and takes appropriate action. It is acts which says, "two dollars please (pause) please deposit two dollars for the next ten seconds" (and other variations). Also, if you talk for more than three minutes and then hang-up, acts will call back and demand your money. Acts is also responsible for automated calling card service. Acts also provide trouble diagnosis for craftspeople (repairmen specializing in fortresses). For example, there is a coin test which is great for tuning up red boxes. In many areas this test can be activated by dialing 09591230 at a fortress (thanks to karl marx for this information). Once activated it will request that you deposit various coins. It will then identify the coin and outpulse the appropriate red box signal. The coins are usually returned when you hang up. To make sure that there is actually money in the fone, the co initiates a "ground test" at various times to determine if a coin is actually in the fone. This is why you must deposit at least a nickel in order to use a red box! Green Boxes: Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain fortresses) left a sour taste in many red boxer's mouths thus the green box was invented. The green box generates useful tones such as coin collect, coin return, and ringback. These are the tones that acts or the tsps operator would send to The co when appropriate. Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at a fortress station but it must be used by the called party. Here are the tones: Coin Collect 700 + 1100 Hz Coin Return 1100 + 1700 Hz Ringback 700 + 1700 Hz Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator released signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the co. This can be accomplished by sending 900 + 1500 hz or a single 2600 hz wink (90 ms) followed by a 60 ms gap and then the appropriate signal for at least 900 Ms. Also, do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up. Incidentally, once the above MF tones for collecting and returning coins reach the co, they are converted into an appropriate dc pulse (-130 volts for return & +130 volts for collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the fortress. This causes the coin relay to either return or collect the coins. The alleged "t-network" takes advantage of this information. When a pulse for coin collect (+130 vdc) is sent down the line, it must be grounded somewhere. This is usually either the yellow or black wire. Thus, if the wires are exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent the pulse from being grounded. When the three minute initial period is almost up, make sure that the black & yellow wires are severed; then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a second pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the fone, hang up again, and if all goes well it should be "jackpot" time. Physical Attack: A typical fortress weighs roughly 50 lbs. With an empty coin box. Most of this is accounted for in the armor plating. Why all the security? Well, Bell contributes it to the following: "social changes during the 1960's made the multislot coin station a prime target for: vandalism, strong arm robbery, fraud, and theft of service. This brought about the introduction of the more rugged single slot coin station and a new environment for coin service." As for picking the lock, I will quote Mr. Phelps: "We often fantasize about 'picking the lock' or 'getting a master key.' Well, you can forget about it. I don't like to discourage people, but it will save you from wasting a lot of our time--time which can be put to better use (heh, heh)." As for physical attack, the coin plate is secured on all four side by hardened steel bolts which pass through two slots each. These bolts are in turn interlocked by the main lock. One phreak I know did manage to take one of the 'mothers' home (which was attached to a piece of plywood at a construction site; otherwise, the permanent ones are a bitch to detach from the wall!). It took him almost ten hours to open the coin box using a power drill, sledge hammers, and crowbars (which was empty -- perhaps next time, he will deposit a coin first to hear if it slushes down nicely or hits the empty bottom with a clunk.) Taking the fone offers a higher margin of success. Although this may be difficult often requiring brute force and there has been several cases of back axles being lost trying to take down a fone! A quick and dirty way to open the coin box is by using a shotgun. In Detroit, after ecologists cleaned out a municipal pond, they found 168 coin phones rifled. In colder areas, such as Canada, some shrewd people tape up the fones using duct tape, pour in water, and come back the next day when the water will have froze thus expanding and cracking the fone open. In one case, "unauthorized coin collectors" where caught when they brought $6,000 in change to a bank and the bank became suspicious... At any rate, the main lock is an eight level tumbler located on the right side of the coin box. This lock has 390,625 possible positions (5 ^ 8, since there are 8 tumblers each with 5 possible positions) thus it is highly pick resistant! The lock is held in place by 4 screws. If there is sufficient clearance to the right of the fone, it is conceivable to punch out the screws using the drilling pattern below (provided by Alexander Muddy in tap #32): !! ^ !! ! ! 1- 3/16 " !! ! !<--- --->!! 1-" -------------------- ! ! ! !! ! ! ! (+) (+)-! ----------- ---! !! ! ^ ! ! !! ! ! ! ! (Z) !! ! ! ! ! !! ! 2-3/16" ---! !! ! ! ! (+) (+) ! ! ! !! ! ! -------------------- ----------- !! !! (Z) KEYHOLE (+) SCREWS !! After this is accomplished, the lock can be pushed backwards disengaging the lock from the cover plate. The four bolts of the cover plate can then be retracted by turning the bolt works with a simple key in the shape of the hole on the coin plate (see diagram below). Of course, there are other methods and drilling patterns. _ ! ! ( ) !_! [ROUGHLY] DIAGRAM OF COVER PLATE KEYHOLE The top cover uses a similar, but not as strong locking method with the keyhole depicted above on the top left hide and a regular lock (probably tumbler also) on the top right-hand side. It is interesting to experiment with the coin chute and the fortresses own "red box" which bell didn't have the balls to color red. Miscellaneous: In a few areas (rural & Canada), post-pay service exists. With this type of service, the mouthpiece is cut off until the caller deposits money when the called party answers. This also allows for free calls to weather and other dial-it services! Recently, 2600 magazine announced the clear box which consists of a telephone pickup coil and a small amp. It is based on the principal that the receiver is also a weak transmitter and that by amplifying your signal you can talk via the transmitter thus avoiding costly telephone charges! Most fortresses are found in the 9xxx area. Under former bell areas, they usually start at 98xx (right below the 99xx official series) and move downward. Since the line, not the fone, determines whether or not a deposit must be made, dtf & charge-a-call fones make great extensions! Finally, fortress fones allow for a new hobby--instruction plate collecting. All that is required is a flat-head screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Simply use the screwdriver to lift underneath the plate so that you can grab it with the pliers and yank downwards. I would suggest covering the tips of the pliers with electrical tape to prevent scratching. Ten cent plates are definitely becoming a "rarity!" Fortress security: While a lonely fortress may seem the perfect target, beware! The gestapo has been known to stake out fortresses for as long as 6 years according to the grass roots quarterly. To avoid any problems, do not use the same fones repeatedly for boxing, calling cards, & other experiments. The Telco knows how much money should be in the coin box and when its not there they tend to get perturbed (Read: Pissed Off). 42. Black Box Plans by The Jolly Roger Introduction: At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20 Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts. The phone company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10, they start billing the person who called you. Function: The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts, so that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled into thinking you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller. However, after about a half hour the phone company will get suspicious and disconnect your line for about 10 seconds. Materials: 1 1.8K Watt Resistor 1 1V LED 1 SPST Switch Procedure: 1.Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and lifting the case off. 2.There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working with the Red Wire. 3.Connect the following in parallel: The Resistor and LED. The SPST Switch. In other words, you should end up with this: (Red Wire) !---/\/\/\--O--! (Line)-----! !-----(Phone) !-----_/_------! /\/\/\ = Resistor O = LED _/_ = SPST Use: The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off, your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings, the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage is kept at 36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make calls. Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour. PS Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this may or may not work in your area. If you live in Bumfuck Kentucky, then try this out. I make no guarantees! (I never do...) 43. The Infamous Blotto Box!! by The Jolly Roger (I bet that no one has the balls to build this one!) Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent phreakers around America has finally been conceived! Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box, here is a brief summery of a legend. The Blotto Box For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage Master, it is possible. Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame, the Blotto Box is finally available to the public. NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed in the file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse machine could have the severe results listed below and could result in high federal prosecution! Again, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY! All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box and it's function. The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its knee's with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for that matter. As long as the switching system stays the same, this box will not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every line will ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the box/generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here. We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and people close to the box may be electrocuted if they pick up the phone. But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator. If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is not advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is electricity to continue with. OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you to do with it... Blotto Functions/Installing Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The following are the instructions for construction and use of this box. Please read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt to construct this box. Materials: A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a stadium or some such place. 400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a phone line jack. A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself. A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch boards and would be a more effective line to start with or a regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area code!) A soldering iron and much solder. A remote control or long wooden pole. Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes, I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of the other listed equipment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole, not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything convenient, if you are two feeble then fuck, don't try this. Take a look inside... you are hunting for color-coordinating lines of green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing off. Replace it with the voltage meter about. A good level to set the voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the cord and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord into the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off. Open it up and match the red and green wires with the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had the generator on and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter. Keep the generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insulation tape around all of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over. NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file first, you still realize now that your area code is about to become null! Then, getting back, switch the pole/remote control and run for your damn life. Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself. The generator will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the phone lines around you in every direction. Have a nice day! The Blotto Box: Aftermath Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea). 44. Blowgun by The Jolly Roger In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture of a powerful blow-gun and making darts for the gun. The possession of the blow gun described in this article IS a felony. So be careful where you use it. I don't want to get you all busted. Needed: 1.Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece). 2.A regular pencil. 3.A 2 inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not obtainable, wrap tape around end of needle. 4. foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter. Constructing the dart: 1.Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser) of the pencil till it comes off. 2. Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then push them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (or the tape). 3.Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before. 4.That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration) ##### >>>>>-----/ # is the yarn > is the head of the pencil - is the pin it-self / is the head of the pin Using the Darts: 1.Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube (if it is too small put on more yarn.) 2.Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect. 3.Blow on the end of the pipe. 4.Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I suggest you wrap it with some black electrician tape. It should feel a lot better. 45. Brown Box Plans by The Jolly Roger This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does is allow you to take any two lines in your house and create a party line. So far I have not heard of anyone who has any problems with it. There is one thing that you will notice when you are one of the two people who is called by a person with a brown box. The other person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made [Why not?]. I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once will make up for any minor volume loss. Here is the diagram: KEY:___________________________________ | PART | SYMBOL | |---------------------------------| | BLACK WIRE | * | | YELLOW WIRE | = | | RED WIRE | + | | GREEN WIRE | - | | SPDT SWITCH | _/_ | | _/_ | | VERTICAL WIRE | | | | HORIZONTAL WIRE | _ | ----------------------------------- * = - + * = - + * = - + * = - + * = - + * ==_/_- + *******_/_++++++ | | | | | | | | | | | | |_____PHONE____| 46. Calcium Carbide Bomb by The Jolly Roger This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball! 47. More Ways to Send a Car to Hell by The Jolly Roger Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14. I have left the original intact. This expands upon the original idea, and could be well called a sequel. How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue tacks. The tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter and then put it directly underneath his car door handle. Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he made it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately 1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts. Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter. This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank. Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it. They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard. 48. Ripping off Change Machines by The Jolly Roger Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports Laundromats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you. 1.Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the tray in!!! 2.After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly surface. 3.Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure). 4.If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine. When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money! \-----Make notch here. About " down from the 1. 49. Clear Box Plans by The Jolly Roger The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be used throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on "PostPay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones that don't require payment until after the connection is established. You pick up the fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then insert your money after the person answers. If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to the person on the other end because your mouth piece is cut off but not the ear-piece. (obviously these phones are nice for free calls to weather or time or other such recordings). All you must do is to go to your nearby Radio Shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor amplifier and a telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction pick-up would be hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation, except that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier and a microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party that is being called answers, the caller could speak through the little microphone instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out the induction coil, and into the back of the receiver where it would then be broadcast through the phone lines and the other party would be able to hear the caller. The Clear Box thus 'clears up' the problem of not being heard. Luckily, the line will not be cut-off after a certain amount of time because it will wait forever for the coins to be put in. The biggest advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the fact that this type of payphone will most likely become very common. Due to a few things: 1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF, dial-tone-first service, 2nd, it doesn't require any special equipment, (for the phone company) This payphone will work on any phone line. Usually a payphone line is different, but this is a regular phone line and it is set up so the phone does all the charging, not the company. 50. CNA List by The Jolly Roger NPA TEL NUMBER NPA TEL NUMBER NPA TEL NUMBER 201 201-676-7070 415 415-543-6374 709 *** NONE *** 202 304-343-7016 416 416-443-0542 712 402-580-2255 203 203-789-6815 417 314-721-6626 713 713-861-7194 204 204-949-0900 418 514-725-2491 714 818-501-7251 205 205-988-7000 419 614-464-0123 715 608-252-6932 206 206-382-5124 501 405-236-6121 716 518-471-8111 207 617-787-5300 502 502-583-2861 717 412-633-5600 208 303-293-8777 503 206-382-5124 718 518-471-8111 209 415-543-2861 504 504-245-5330 801 303-293-8777 212 518-471-8111 505 303-293-8777 802 617-787-5300 213 415-781-5271 506 506-648-3041 803 912-784-0440 214 214-464-7400 507 402-580-2255 804 304-344-7935 215 412-633-5600 509 206-382-5124 805 415-543-2861 216 614-464-0123 512 512-828-2501 806 512-828-2501 217 217-525-5800 513 614-464-0123 807 416-443-0542 218 402-580-2255 514 514-725-2491 808 212-334-4336 219 317-265-4834 515 402-580-2255 809 212-334-4336 301 304-343-1401 516 518-471-8111 812 317-265-4834 302 412-633-5600 517 313-223-8690 813 813-228-7871 303 303-293-8777 518 518-471-8111 814 412-633-5600 304 304-344-8041 519 416-443-0542 815 217-525-5800 305 912-784-0440 601 601-961-8139 816 816-275-2782 306 306-347-2878 602 303-293-8777 817 214-464-7400 307 303-293-8777 603 617-787-5300 818 415-781-5271 308 402-580-2255 604 604-432-2996 819 514-725-2491 309 217-525-5800 605 402-580-2255 901 615-373-5791 312 312-796-9600 606 502-583-2861 902 902-421-4110 313 313-223-8690 607 518-471-8111 904 912-784-0440 314 314-721-6626 608 608-252-6932 906 313-223-8690 315 518-471-8111 609 201-676-7070 907 *** NONE *** 316 816-275-2782 612 402-580-2255 912 912-784-0440 317 317-265-4834 613 416-443-0542 913 816-275-2782 318 504-245-5330 614 614-464-0123 914 518-471-8111 319 402-580-2255 615 615-373-5791 915 512-828-2501 401 617-787-5300 616 313-223-8690 916 415-543-2861 402 402-580-2255 617 617-787-5300 918 405-236-6121 403 403-425-2652 618 217-525-5800 919 912-784-0440 404 912-784-0440 619 818-501-7251 900 201-676-7070 405 405-236-6121 701 402-580-2255 406 303-293-8777 702 415-543-2861 408 415-543-6374 703 304-344-7935 409 713-861-7194 704 912-784-0440 412 413-633-5600 705 416-979-3469 413 617-787-5300 706 *** NONE *** 414 608-252-6932 707 415-543-6374

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