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Chapters 151-219

ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2000 Pictures and Reformatting for Word6 by Louis Helm Table of Contents Chapters 101-219 101.RemObS 102.Scarlet Box Plans 103.Silver Box Plans 104.Bell Trashing 105.Canadian WATS Phonebook 106.Hacking TRW 107.Hacking VAX & UNIX 108.Verification Circuits 109.White Box Plans 110.The BLAST Box 111.Dealing with the R&R Operator 112.Cellular Phone Phreaking 113.Cheesebox Plans 114.Start Your Own Conferences 115.Gold Box Plans 116.The History of ESS 117.The Lunch Box 118.Olive Box Plans 119.The Tron Box 120.More TRW Info 121."Phreaker's Phunhouse" 122.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27 123.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27 124.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28 125.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28 126.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28 127.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30 128.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30 129.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30 130.Sodium Chlorate 131.Mercury Fulminate 132.Improvised Black Powder 133.Nitric Acid 134.Dust Bomb Instructions 135.Carbon-Tet Explosive 136.Making Picric Acid from Aspirin 137.Reclamation of RDX from C-4 138.Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels 139.Clothespin Switch 140.Flexible Plate Switch 141.Low Signature System [Silencers] 142.Delay Igniter From Cigarette 143.Nicotine 144.Dried Seed Timer 145.Nail Grenade 146.Bell Glossary 147.Phone Dial Locks -- Beat'em 148.Exchange Scanning 149.A Short History of Phreaking 150."Secrets of the Little Blue Box" 151.The History of British Phreaking 152."Bad as Shit" 153.Telenet 154.Fucking with the Operator 155.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 1, Issue 1 156.International Country Codes List 157.Infinity Transmitter Plans 158.LSD 159.Bananas 160.Yummy Marihuana Recipes 161.Peanuts 162.Chemical Fire Bottle 163.Igniter from Book Matches 164."Red or White Powder" Propellant 165.Pipe Hand Grenade 166.European Credit Card Fraud 167.Potassium Bomb 168.Your Legal Rights 169.Juvenile Offenders' Rights 170.Down The Road Missle 171.Fun With Shotgun Shells 172.Surveillance Equipment 173.Drip Timer 174.Stealing 175.Miscellaneous 176.Shaving cream bomb 177.Ripping off change machines II 178.Lockpicking the EASY way 179.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Prelude 180.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 1 181.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 2 182.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 3 183.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 4 184.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 5 185.Explosives and Propellants 186.Lockpicking III 187.Chemical Equivalent List II 188.Nitroglycerin II 189.Cellulose Nitrate 190.Starter Explosives 191.Flash Powder 192.Exploding Pens 193.Revised Pipe Bombs 194.* SAFETY * A MUST READ! 195.Ammonium TriIodide 196.Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III 197.Black Powder III 198.Nitrocellulose 199.RDX 200.The Black Gate BBS 201.ANFOS 202.Picric Acid II 203.Bottled Explosives 204.Dry Ice 205.Fuses / Ignitors / Delays 206.Film Canister Bombs 207.Book Bombs 208.Phone Bombs 209.Special Ammunition 210.Rocketry 211.Pipe Cannon II 212.Smoke Bombs 213.Firecrackers 214.Suppliers II 215.Lab-Raid Checklist 216.Misc Anarchy 217.Combo Locks II 218.Misc Anarchy II 219.Thermite IV 151.The History of British Phreaking by Lex Luthor Note: The British post office, is the US equivalent of Ma Bell. In Britain, phreaking goes back to the early fifties, when the technique of 'toll a drop back' was discovered. Toll a was an exchange near St.Pauls which routed calls between London and nearby non-London exchanges. The trick was to dial an unallocated number, and then depress the receiver-rest for second. This flashing initiated the 'clear forward' signal, leaving the caller with an open line into the toll a exchange. They could then dial 018, which forwarded him to the trunk exchange at that time, the first long distance exchange in Britain and follow it with the code for the distant exchange to which he would be connected at no extra charge. The signals needed to control the UK network today were published in the "Institution of Post Office Engineers Journal" and reprinted in the Sunday times (15 Oct. 1972). The signaling system they use: Signaling system No.3 uses pairs of frequencies selected from 6 tones separated by 120hz. With that info, the phreaks made "bleepers" or as they are called here in the US "blue box", but they do utilize different MF tones then the US, thus, your US blue box that you smuggled into the UK will not work, unless you change the frequencies. In the early seventies, a simpler system based on different numbers of pulses with the same frequency (2280hz) was used. For more info on that, try to get a hold of: Atkinson's "Telephony and Systems Technology". In the early days of British phreaking, the Cambridge university Titan computer was used to record and circulate numbers found by the exhaustive dialing of local networks. These numbers were used to create a chain of links from local exchange to local exchange across the country, bypassing the trunk circuits. Because the internal routing codes in the UK network are not the same as those dialed by the caller, the phreaks had to discover them by 'probe and listen' techniques or more commonly known in the US -- scanning. What they did was put in likely signals and listened to find out if they succeeded. The results of scanning were circulated to other phreaks. Discovering each other took time at first, but eventually the phreaks became organized. The "tap" of Britain was called "undercurrents" which enabled British phreaks to share the info on new numbers, equipment etc. To understand what the British phreaks did, think of the phone network in three layers of lines: Local, trunk, and international. In the UK, subscriber trunk dialing (std), is the mechanism which takes a call from the local lines and (legitimately) elevates it to a trunk or international level. The UK phreaks figured that a call at trunk level can be routed through any number of exchanges, provided that the right routing codes were found and used correctly. They also had to discover how to get from local to trunk level either without being charged (which they did with a bleeper box) or without using (std). Chaining has already been mentioned but it requires long strings of digits and speech gets more and more faint as the chain grows, just like it does when you stack trunks back and forth across the US. The way the security reps snagged the phreaks was to put a simple 'printermeter' or as we call it: A pen register on the suspects line, which shows every digit dialed from the subscribers line. The British prefer to get onto the trunks rather than chaining. One way was to discover where local calls use the trunks between neighboring exchanges, start a call and stay on the trunk instead of returning to the local level on reaching the distant switch. This again required exhaustive dialing and made more work for titan; it also revealed 'fiddles', which were inserted by post office engineers. What fiddling means is that the engineers rewired the exchanges for their own benefit. The equipment is modified to give access to a trunk without being charged, an operation which is pretty easy in step by step (SxS) electro-mechanical exchanges, which were installed in Britain even in the 1970's (Note: I know of a back door into the Canadian system on a 4A Co., so if you are on SxS or a 4A, try scanning 3 digit exchanges, i.e.: dial 999,998,997 etc. And listen for the beep-kerchink, if there are no 3 digit codes which allow direct access to a tandem in your local exchange and bypasses the AMA so you won't be billed, not have to blast 2600 every time you wish to box a call. A famous British 'fiddler' revealed in the early 1970's worked by dialing 173. The caller then added the trunk code of 1 and the subscribers local number. At that time, most engineering test services began with 17X, so the engineers could hide their fiddles in the nest of service wires. When security reps started searching, the fiddles were concealed by tones signaling: 'Number unobtainable' or 'Equipment engaged' which switched off after a delay. The necessary relays are small and easily hidden. There was another side to phreaking in the UK in the sixties. Before STD was widespread, many 'ordinary' people were driven to. Occasional phreaking from sheer frustration at the inefficient operator controlled trunk system. This came to a head during a strike about 1961 when operators could not be reached. Nothing complicated was needed. Many operators had been in the habit of repeating the codes as they dialed the requested numbers so people soon learnt the numbers they called frequently. The only 'trick' was to know which exchanges could be dialed through to pass on the trunk number. Callers also needed a pretty quiet place to do it, since timing relative to clicks was important. The most famous trial of British phreaks was called the old Baily trial. Which started on Oct. 3rd, 1973. What the phreaks did was dial a spare number at a local call rate, but involving a trunk to another exchange then they sent a 'clear forward' to their local exchange, indicating to it that the call was finished; but the distant exchange doesn't realize because the caller's phone is still off the hook. They now have an open line into the distant trunk exchange and sent to it a 'seize' signal: '1' which puts him onto its outgoing lines now, if they know the codes, the world is open to them. All other exchanges trust his local exchange to handle the billing; they just interpret the tones they hear. Meanwhile, the local exchange collects only for a local call. The investigators discovered the phreaks holding a conference somewhere in England surrounded by various phone equipment and bleeper boxes, also printouts listing 'secret' post office codes. (They probably got them from trashing?) The judge said: "Some take to heroin, some take to telephones." for them phone phreaking was not a crime, but a hobby to be shared with phellow enthusiasts and discussed with the post office openly over dinner and by mail. Their approach and attitude to the worlds largest computer, the global telephone system, was that of scientists conducting experiments or programmers and engineers testing programs and systems. The judge appeared to agree, and even asked them for phreaking codes to use from his local exchange!!! 152.Bad as Shit by The Jolly Roger Recently, a telephone fanatic in the northwest made an interesting discovery. He was exploring the 804 area code (Virginia) and found out that the 840 exchange did something strange. In the vast majority of cases, in fact in all of the cases except one, he would get a recording as if the exchange didn't exist. However, if he dialed 804-840 and four rather predictable numbers, he got a ring! After one or two rings, somebody picked up. Being experienced at this kind of thing, he could tell that the call didn't "supe", that is, no charges were being incurred for calling this number. (Calls that get you to an error message, or a special operator, generally don't supervise.) A female voice, with a hint of a Southern accent said, "Operator, can I help you?" "Yes," he said, "What number have I reached?" "What number did you dial, sir?" He made up a number that was similar. "I'm sorry that is not the number you reached." Click. He was fascinated. What in the world was this? He knew he was going to call back, but before he did, he tried some more experiments. He tried the 840 exchange in several other area codes. In some, it came up as a valid exchange. In others, exactly the same thing happened -- the same last four digits, the same Southern belle. Oddly enough, he later noticed, the areas worked in seemed to travel in a beeline from Washington DC to Pittsburgh, PA. He called back from a payphone. "Operator, can I help you?" "Yes, this is the phone company. I'm testing this line and we don't seem to have an identification on your circuit. What office is this, please?" "What number are you trying to reach?" "I'm not trying to reach any number. I'm trying to identify this circuit." "I'm sorry, I can't help you." "Ma'am, if I don't get an ID on this line, I'll have to disconnect it. We show no record of it here." "Hold on a moment, sir." After about a minute, she came back. "Sir, I can have someone speak to you. Would you give me your number, please?" He had anticipated this and he had the payphone number ready. After he gave it, she said, "Mr. XXX will get right back to you." "Thanks." He hung up the phone. It rang. INSTANTLY! "Oh my God," he thought, "They weren't asking for my number -- they were confirming it!" "Hello," he said, trying to sound authoritative. "This is Mr. XXX. Did you just make an inquiry to my office concerning a phone number?" "Yes. I need an identi--" "What you need is advice. Don't ever call that number again. Forget you ever knew it." At this point our friend got so nervous he just hung up. He expected to hear the phone ring again but it didn't. Over the next few days he racked his brains trying to figure out what the number was. He knew it was something big -- that was pretty certain at this point. It was so big that the number was programmed into every central office in the country. He knew this because if he tried to dial any other number in that exchange, he'd get a local error message from his CO, as if the exchange didn't exist. It finally came to him. He had an uncle who worked in a federal agency. He had a feeling that this was government related and if it was, his uncle could probably find out what it was. He asked the next day and his uncle promised to look into the matter. The next time he saw his uncle, he noticed a big change in his manner. He was trembling. "Where did you get that number?!" he shouted. "Do you know I almost got fired for asking about it?!? They kept wanting to know where I got it." Our friend couldn't contain his excitement. "What is it?" he pleaded. "What's the number?!" "IT'S THE PRESIDENT'S BOMB SHELTER!" He never called the number after that. He knew that he could probably cause quite a bit of excitement by calling the number and saying something like, "The weather's not good in Washington. We're coming over for a visit." But our friend was smart. He knew that there were some things that were better off unsaid and undone. 153.Telenet by The Mad Max It seems that not many of you know that Telenet is connected to about 80 computer-networks in the world. No, I don't mean 80 nodes, but 80 networks with thousands of unprotected computers. When you call your local Telenet-gateway, you can only call those computers which accept reverse-charging-calls. If you want to call computers in foreign countries or computers in USA which do not accept R-calls, you need a Telenet-ID. Did you ever notice that you can type ID XXXX when being connected to Telenet? You are then asked for the password. If you have such a NUI (Network-User-ID) you can call nearly every host connected to any computer-network in the world. Here are some examples: 026245400090184 :Is a VAX in Germany (Username: DATEXP and leave mail for CHRIS) 0311050500061 :Is the Los Alamos Integrated computing network (One of the hosts connected to it is the DNA (Defense Nuclear Agency)!!!) 0530197000016 :Is a BBS in New Zealand 024050256 :Is the S-E-Bank in Stockholm, Sweden (Login as GAMES !!!) 02284681140541 :CERN in Geneva in Switzerland (one of the biggest nuclear research centers in the world) Login as GUEST 0234212301161 :A Videotex-standard system. Type OPTEL to get in and use the ID 999_ with the password 9_ 0242211000001 :University of Oslo in Norway (Type LOGIN 17,17 to play the Multi-User-Dungeon !) 0425130000215 :Something like ITT Dialcom, but this one is in Israel ! ID HELP with password HELP works fine with security level 3 0310600584401 :Is the Washington Post News Service via Tymnet (Yes, Tymnet is connected to Telenet, too !) ID and Password is: PETER You can read the news of the next day! The prefixes are as follows: 02624 is Datex-P in Germany 02342 is PSS in England 03110 is Telenet in USA 03106 is Tymnet in USA 02405 is Telepak in Sweden 04251 is Isranet in Israel 02080 is Transpac in France 02284 is Telepac in Switzerland 02724 is Eirpac in Ireland 02704 is Luxpac in Luxembourg 05252 is Telepac in Singapore 04408 is Venus-P in Japan ...and so on... Some of the countries have more than one packet-switching-network (USA has 11, Canada has 3, etc). OK. That should be enough for the moment. As you see most of the passwords are very simple. This is because they must not have any fear of hackers. Only a few German hackers use these networks. Most of the computers are absolutely easy to hack !!! So, try to find out some Telenet-ID's and leave them here. If you need more numbers, leave e-mail. I'm calling from Germany via the German Datex-P network, which is similar to Telenet. We have a lot of those NUI's for the German network, but none for a special Tymnet-outdial-computer in USA, which connects me to any phone number. Call 026245621040000 and type ID INF300 with password DATACOM to get more Informations on packet-switching-networks! The new password for the Washington Post is KING !!!! 154.Fucking with the Operator by The Jolly Roger Ever get an operator who gave you a hard time, and you didn't know what to do? Well if the operator hears you use a little Bell jargon, she might wise up. Here is a little diagram (excuse the artwork) of the structure of operators /--------\ /------\ /-----\ !Operator!-- > ! S.A. ! --->! BOS ! \--------/ \------/ \-----/ ! ! V /-------------\ ! Group Chief ! \-------------/ Now most of the operators are not bugged, so they can curse at you, if they do ask INSTANTLY for the "S.A." or the Service Assistant. The operator does not report to her (95% of them are hers) but they will solve most of your problems. She MUST give you her name as she connects & all of these calls are bugged. If the SA gives you a rough time get her BOS (Business Office Supervisor) on the line. S/He will almost always back her girls up, but sometimes the SA will get tarred and feathered. The operator reports to the Group Chief, and S/He will solve 100% of your problems, but the chances of getting S/He on the line are nill. If a lineman (the guy who works out on the poles) or an installation man gives you the works ask to speak to the Installation Foreman, that works wonders. Here is some other bell jargon, that might come in handy if you are having trouble with the line. Or they can be used to lie your way out of situations.... An Erling is a line busy for 1 hour, used mostly in traffic studies A Permanent Signal is that terrible howling you get if you disconnect, but don't hang up. Everyone knows what a busy signal is, but some idiots think that is the *Actual* ringing of the phone, when it just is a tone "beeps" when the phone is ringing, wouldn't bet on this though, it can (and does) get out of sync. When you get a busy signal that is 2 times as fast as the normal one, the person you are trying to reach isn't really on the phone, (he might be), it is actually the signal that a trunk line somewhere is busy and they haven't or can't reroute your call. Sometimes you will get a Recording, or if you get nothing at all (Left High & Dry in fone terms) all the recordings are being used and the system is really overused, will probably go down in a little while. This happened when Kennedy was shot, the system just couldn't handle the calls. By the way this is called the "reorder signal" and the trunk line is "blocked". One more thing, if an overseas call isn't completed and doesn't generate any money for AT&T, is called an "Air & Water Call". 155.Phrack Magazine - Vol. 1, Issue 1 by The Iron Soldier "Vengeance is mine", says the Phreak. METHOD 1-PHONE LINE PHUN Call up the business office. It should be listed at the front of the white pages. Say you wanted to disconnect Scott Korman's line. DIAL 800-xxx-xxxx. "Hello, this is Mr. Korman, I'm moving to California and would like to have my phone service disconnected. I'm at the airport now. I'm calling from a payphone, my number is [414] 445 5005. You can send my final bill to: (somewhere in California). Thank you." METHOD 2-PHONE BOOKS Call up the business office from a pay phone. Say : "Hello, I'd like to order a Phone Book for Upper Volta (or any out-of-the way area with Direct Dialing). This is Scott Korman, ship to 3119 N. 44th St. Milwaukee, WI 53216. Yes, I under stand it will cost $xx($25-$75!!). Thank you." METHOD 3-PHONE CALLS Call up a PBX, enter the code and get an outside line. Then dial 0+ the number desired to call. You will hear a bonk and then an operator. Say, "I'd like to charge this to my home phone at 414-445-5005. Thank you." A friend and I did this to a loser, I called him at 1:00 AM and we left the fone off the hook all night. I calculated that it cost him $168. METHOD 4-MISC. SERVICES Call up the business office once again from a payfone. Say you'd like call waiting, forwarding, 3 way, etc. Once again you are the famed loser Scott Korman. He pays-you laugh. You don't know how funny it was talking to him, and wondering what those clicks he kept hearing were. METHOD 5-CHANGED & UNPUB Do the same as in #4, but say you'd like to change and unlist your (Scott's) number. Anyone calling him will get: "BEW BEW BEEP. The number you have reached, 445-5005, has been changed to a non-published number. No further....." METHOD 6-FORWARDING This required an accomplice or two or three. Around Christmas time, go to Toys 'R' Us. Get everyone at the customer service or manager's desk away ("Hey, could you help me"). Then you get on their phone and dial (usually dial 9 first) and the business office again. This time, say you are from Toys 'R' Us, and you'd like to add call forwarding to 445-5005. Scott will get 100-600 calls a day!!! METHOD 7-RUSSIAN CALLER Call a payphone at 10:00 PM. Say to the operator that you'd like to book a call to Russia. Say you are calling from a payphone, and your number is that of the loser to fry (e.g. 445-5005). She will say that she'll have to call ya back in 5 hours, and you OK that. Meanwhile the loser (e.g.) Scott, will get a call at 3:00 AM from an operator saying that the call he booked to Russia is ready. 156.International Country Code Listing by The Jolly Roger *UNITED KINGDOM/IRELAND ------------------------------------ IRELAND.........................353 UNITED KINGDOM...................44 *EUROPE ------------------------------------ ANDORRA..........................33 AUSTRIA..........................43 BELGIUM..........................32 CYPRUS..........................357 CZECHOLSLOVAKIA..................42 DENMARK..........................45 FINLAND.........................358 FRANCE...........................33 GERMAN DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC.......37 GERMANY, FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF.....49 GIBRALTAR.......................350 GREECE...........................30 HUNGARY..........................36 ICELAND.........................354 ITALY............................39 LIECHTENSTEIN....................41 LUXEMBOURG......................352 MONACO...........................33 NETHERLANDS......................31 NORWAY...........................47 POLAND...........................48 PORTUGAL........................351 ROMANIA..........................40 SAN MARINO.......................39 SPAIN............................34 SWEDEN...........................46 SWITZERLAND......................41 TURKEY...........................90 VATICAN CITY.....................39 YUGOSLAVIA.......................38 *CENTRAL AMERICA ------------------------------------ BELIZE.........................01 COSTA RICA.....................06 EL SALVADOR....................03 GUATEMALA......................02 HONDURAS.......................04 NICARAGUA......................05 PANAMA.........................07 *AFRICA ------------------------------------ ALGERIA.........................213 CAMEROON........................237 EGYPT............................20 ETHIOPIA........................251 GABON...........................241 IVORY COAST.....................225 KENYA...........................254 LESOTHO.........................266 LIBERIA.........................231 LIBYA...........................218 MALAWI..........................265 MOROCCO.........................212 NAMIBIA.........................264 NIGERIA.........................234 SENEGAL.........................221 SOUTH AFRICA.....................27 SWAZILAND.......................268 TANZANIA........................255 TUNISIA.........................216 UGANDA..........................256 ZAMBIA..........................260 ZIMBABWE........................263 *PACIFIC ------------------------------------ AMERICAN SAMOA..................684 AUSTRALIA........................61 BRUNEI..........................673 FIJI............................679 FRENCH POLYNESIA................689 GUAM............................671 HONG KONG.......................852 INDONESIA........................62 JAPAN............................81 KOREA, REPUBLIC OF...............82 MALAYSIA.........................60 NEW CALEDONIA...................687 NEW ZEALAND......................64 PAPUA NEW GUINEA................675 PHILIPPINES......................63 SAIPAN..........................670 SINGAPORE........................65 TAIWAN..........................886 THAILAND.........................66 *INDIAN OCEAN ------------------------------------ PAKISTAN.........................92 SRI LANKA........................94 *SOUTH AMERICA ------------------------------------ ARGENTINA.......................4 BOLIVIA........................91 BRAZIL..........................5 CHILE...........................6 COLOMBIA........................7 ECUADOR........................93 GUYANA.........................92 PARAGUAY.......................95 PERU............................1 SURINAM........................97 URUGUAY........................98 VENEZUELA.......................8 *NEAR EAST ------------------------------------ BAHRAIN.........................973 IRAN.............................98 IRAQ............................964 ISRAEL..........................972 JORDAN..........................962 KUWAIT..........................965 OMAN............................968 QATAR...........................974 SAUDI ARABIA....................966 UNITED ARAB EMIRATES............971 YEMEN ARAB REPUBLIC.............967 *CARIBBEAN/ATLANTIC ------------------------------------ FRENCH ANTILLES................96 GUANTANAMO BAY (US NAVY BASE)...3 HAITI..........................09 NETHERLANDS ANTILLES...........99 ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON........08 *INDIA ------------------------------------ INDIA............................91 *CANADA ------------------------------------ TO CALL CANADA, DIAL 1 + AREA CODE + LOCAL NUMBER. *MEXICO ------------------------------------ TO CALL MEXICO, DIAL 011 + 52 + CITY CODE+ LOCAL NUMBER. To dial international calls: International Access Code + Country code + Routing code Example : To call Frankfurt, Germany, you would do the following: 011 + 49 + 611 + (# wanted) + # sign(octothrope) The # sign at the end is to tell Bell that you are done entering in all the needed info. 157.The Infinity Transmitter: by <<>> FROM THE BOOK BUILD YOUR OWN LASER, PHASER, ION RAY GUN & OTHER WORKING SPACE-AGE PROJECTS BY ROBERT IANNINI (TAB BOOKS INC.) Description: Briefly, the Infinity Transmitter is a device which activates a microphone via a phone call. It is plugged into the phone line, and when the phone rings, it will immediately intercept the ring and broadcast into the phone any sound that is in the room. This device was originally made by Information Unlimited, and had a touch tone decoder to prevent all who did not know the code from being able to use the phone in its normal way. This version, however, will activate the microphone for anyone who calls while it is in operation. NOTE: It is illegal to use this device to try to bug someone. It is also pretty stupid because they are fairly noticeable. Parts List: Pretend that uF means micro Farad, cap = capacitor Part # Description ---- - ----------- R1,4,8 3 390 k watt resistor R2 1 5.6 M watt resistor R3,5,6 3 6.8 k watt resistor R7/S1 1 5 k pot/switch R9,16 2 100 k watt resistor R10 1 2.2 k watt resistor R13,18 2 1 k watt resistor R14 1 470 ohm watt resistor R15 1 10 k watt resistor R17 1 1 M watt resistor C1 1 .05 uF/25 V disc cap C2,3,5,6,7 5 1 uF 50 V electrolytic cap or tant (preferably non-polarized) C4,11,12 3 .01 uF/50 V disc cap C8,10 2 100 uF @ 25 V electrolytic cap C9 1 5 uF @ 150 V electrolytic cap C13 1 10 uF @ 25 V electrolytic cap TM1 1 555 timer dip A1 1 CA3018 amp array in can Q1,2 2 PN2222 npn sil transistor Q3 1 D4OD5 npn pwr tab transistor D1,2 2 50 V 1 amp react. 1N4002 T1 1 1 k/500 matching transformer M1 1 large crystal microphone J1 1 Phono jack optional for sense output WR3 (24") #24 red and black hook up wire WR4 (24") #24 black hook up wire CL3,4 2 Alligator clips CL1,2 2 6" battery snap clips PB1 1 1 3/4x4 x.1 perfboard CA1 1 5 x3x2 1/8 grey enclosure fab WR15 (12") #24 buss wire KN1 1 small plastic knob BU1 1 small clamp bushing B1,2 2 9 volt transistor battery or 9V ni-cad Circuit Operation: Not being the most technical guy in the world, and not being very good at electronics (yet), I'm just repeating what Mr. Iannini's said about the circuit operation. The Transmitter consists of a high grain amplifier fed into the telephone lines via transformer. The circuit is initiated by the action of a voltage transient pulse occurring across the phone line at the instant the telephone circuit is made (the ring, in other words). This transient immediately triggers a timer whose output pin 3 goes positive, turning on transistors Q2 and Q3. Timer TM1 now remains in this state for a period depending on the values of R17 and C13 (usually about 10 seconds for the values shown). When Q3 is turned on by the timer, a simulated "off hook" condition is created by the switching action of Q3 connecting the 500 ohm winding of the transformer directly across the phone lines. Simultaneously, Q2 clamps the ground of A1, amplifier, and Q1, output transistor, to the negative return of B1, B2, therefore enabling this amplifier section. Note that B2 is always required by supplying quiescent power to TM1 during normal conditions. System is off/on controlled by S1 (switch). A crystal mike picks up the sounds that are fed to the first two transistors of the A1 array connected as an emitter follower driving the remaining two transistors as cascaded common emitters. Output of the array now drives Q1 capacitively coupled to the 1500 ohm winding of T1. R7 controls the pick up sensitivity of the system. Diode D1 is forward biased at the instant of connection and essentially applies a negative pulse at pin 2 of TM1, initiating the cycle. D2 clamps any high positive pulses. C9 dc-isolates and desensitizes the circuit. The system described should operate when any incoming call is made without ringing the phone. Schematic Diagram: Because this is text, this doesn't look too hot. Please use a little imagination! I will hopefully get a graphics drawing of this out as soon as I can on a Fontrix graffile. To be able to see what everything is, this character: | should appear as a horizontal bar. I did this on a ][e using a ][e 80 column card, so I'm sorry if it looks kinda weird to you. Symbols: resistor: -/\/\/- switch: _/ _ battery: -|!|!- capacitor (electrolytic): -|(- capacitor (disc): -||- _ _ transistor:(c) > (e) Transformer: )||( \_/ )||( |(b) _)||(_ diode: |< chip: ._____. !_____! (chips are easy to recognize!) Dots imply a connection between wires. NO DOT, NO CONNECTION. i.e..: _!_ means a connection while _|_ means no connection. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- .________________________to GREEN wire phone line | | .______________________to RED wire phone line | | | | ._________(M1)______________. | | | | | | | R1 | | | !__________/\/\/____________! | | | _!_ C1 | | |this wire is the amp ___ | | |<=ground | R2 | | | !___________________/\/\/_____________. | | | ._______!_______. | | | !___________________!4 9 11!_____________________________! | | | | | | | | !___________________!7 12._____________________________! | | | | A1 | R3 | | | !___________________!10 ____*8!_______.____/\/\/____________! | | | | / | | | | | | C4 | / | \ |2ma | | !____||______. | / | /R4 B1 + | | | || | | / | \ | | | | R7 | C2 | / | / | | | !____/\/\/___!__)|__!8*_/ | | S1 | | | | ^ | 6!_______! neg<__/.__! | | | | C3 | | | C5 return | | | | !_____|(___.__!3 | '-|(-| | | | | | | 5 1!____________! | | | | \ !_______._______! | B2| | | !________. R8 / | | + | | | \ | | R6 |3ma | | | !__________!____________________|_____/\/\/______! | | | R5 | | | | | !__/\/\/___________|____________________! | | | | | | | | | | | | | | C6 | | | | | |-)|-' R9 | | | | !_________________/\/\/_______. | | | | | | | | | | Q1 _!_ | R10 | | | !____________/ \____________________________!__/\/\/_____! | | | | | | | | | | | | | C8 | | | | !__________)|_______________________________|____________! | | ! | | | | / | | | | -----| | | | | | \ | | | | | > | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | !_____________. | | | | | | | | | | !__________. | | | | | | | | | | !________. | | ._____! | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | C7 | | | | | '-|(-| | | |_________|_________!_______.T1._________________| | | | | 1500 )||( 500 | | | | ohm )||( ohm | | | !______.)||(.__. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | > | | | | |/ | | | | +----| Q3 | | | | | |\ | !____________________|_________|_______|______!__. D1 C9 | | | | '-|<---|(------| | .______________! | | | | | | | | | | .________________! | | | | | | | | \ | .________________! C11 | | / | | .___||____________! | R13 \ | | | || | | / | | | | | \ !___.___|_______________________! | | | | | | | R16 | R15 | | v | | !___/\/\/\________!___/\/\/_! | neg | | | D2 | | | return | | !_____|<__________! | | B1,B2 | \ | | | | | / | .____________!_. | | | \R14 |C12 | TM1 2 | | | | / !_||_!5 4!_______! | | \ | || | | | | | | !____!1 8!_______! | | | | | 7 6 3 | | | | | | !_____._.____._! | | | | | | | | | | | | | C13 | | | R17 | | | | !___)|_____!_!____|__/\/\/__! | | | | | | !___________|___!_______________________|_________________! | | | | | | \ | C10 | | /R18 !__________)|_______________! | \ | / | | !___O J1 sense output Construction notes: Because the damned book just gave a picture instead of step by step instructions, and I'll try to give you as much help as possible. Note that all the parts that you will be using are clearly labeled in the schematic. The perfboard, knobs, 'gator clips, etc are optional. I do strongly suggest that you do use the board!!! It will make wiring the components up much much easier than if you don't use it. The knob you can use to control the pot (R7). R7 is used to tune the IT so that is sounds Ok over the phone. (You get to determine what sounds good) By changing the value of C13, you can change the amount of time that the circuit will stay open (it cannot detect a hang up, so it works on a timer.) A value of 100 micro Farads will increase the time by about 10 times. The switch (S1) determines whether or not the unit is operational. Closed is on. Open is off. The negative return is the negative terminals of the battery!! The batteries will look something like this when hooked up: <-v_____. .______. ._____. .____-> | | | | | | __!___!__ | | __!___!__ | + - | !_/ _! | + - | | | switch ^ | | | 9volts| | | 9volts| !_______! neg return !_______! To hook this up to the phone line, there are three ways, depending upon what type of jack you have. If it is the old type (non modular) then you can just open up the wall plate and connect the wires from the transmitter directly to the terminals of the phone. If you have a modular jack with four prongs, attach the red to the negative prong (don't ask me which is which! I don't have that type of jack... I've only seen them in stores), and the green to the positive prong, and plug in. Try not to shock yourself... If you have the clip-in type jack, get double male extension cord (one with a clip on each end), and chop off one clip. Get a sharp knife and splice off the gray protective material. You should see four wires, including one green and one red. You attach the appropriate wires from the IT to these two, and plug the other end into the wall. Getting the IT to work: If you happen to have a problem, you should attempt to do the following (these are common sense rules!!) Make sure that you have the polarity of all the capacitors right (if you used polarized capacitors, that is). Make sure that all the soldering is done well and has not short circuited something accidentally (like if you have a glob touching two wires which should not be touching.) Check for other short circuits. Check to see if the battery is in right. Check to make sure the switch is closed. If it still doesn't work, drop me a line on one of the Maryland or Virginia BBSs and I'll try to help you out. The sense output: Somehow or other, it is possible to hook something else up to this and activate it by phone (like an alarm, flashing lights, etc.) 158.LSD by The Jolly Roger I think, of all the drugs on the black market today, LSD is the strangest. It is the most recent major drug to come to life in the psychedelic subculture. (Blah blah blah... let's get to the good stuff: How to make it in your kitchen!!) 1.Grind up 150 grams of Morning Glory seeds or baby Hawaiian wood rose seeds. 2.In 130 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two days. 3.Filter the solution through a tight screen. 4.Throw away the liquid, and allow the seed mush to dry. 5.For two days allow the mush to soak in 110 cc. of wood alcohol. 6.Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it "1." 7.Resoak the mush in 110 cc. of wood alcohol for two days. 8.Filter and throw away the mush. 9.Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution labeled "1." 10.Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to evaporate. 11.When all of the liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains. This should be scraped up and put into capsules. 30 grams of Morning Glory seeds = 1 trip 15 Hawaiian wood rose seeds = 1 trip Many companies, such as Northop-King have been coating their seeds with a toxic chemical, which is poison. Order seeds from a wholesaler, as it is much safer and cheaper. Hawaiian wood rose seeds can be ordered directly from: Chong's Nursery and Flowers P.O. Box 2154 Honolulu, Hawaii LSD DOSAGES The basic dosages of acid vary according to what kind of acid is available and what medium of ingestion is used. Chemically, the potency of LSD-25 is measured in micrograms, or mics. If you're chemically minded or making your own acid, then computing the number of micrograms is very important. Usually between 500 and 800 mics is plenty for an 8 hour trip, depending on the quality of the acid, of course. I have heard of people taking as much as 1,500-2,000 mics. This is not only extremely dangerous, it is extremely wasteful. LSD comes packaged in many different forms. The most common are listed below: 1.The brown spot, or a piece of paper with a dried drop of LSD on it, is always around. Usually one spot equals one trip. 2.Capsuled acid is very tricky, as the cap can be almost any color, size, or potency. Always ask what the acid is cut with, as a lot of acid is cut with either speed or strychnine. Also note dosage. 3.Small white or colored tablets have been known to contain acid, but, as with capsuled acid, it's impossible to tell potency, without asking. 159.Bananas by The Jolly Roger Believe it or not, bananas do contain a small quantity of _Musa Sapientum bananadine_, which is a mild, short-lasting psychedelic. There are much easier ways of getting high, but the great advantage to this method is that bananas are legal. 1.Obtain 15 lbs. of ripe yellow bananas. 2.Peel all 15 lbs. and eat the fruit. Save the peels. 3.With a sharp knife, scrape off the insides of the peels and save the scraped material. 4.Put all of the scraped material in a large pot and add water. Boil for three to four hours until it has attained a solid paste consistency. 5.Spread this paste on cookie sheets, and dry in an over for about 20 minutes to a half hour. This will result in a fine black powder. Makes about one pound of bananadine powder. Usually one will feel the effects of bananadine after smoking three or four cigarettes. 1 banana = 100grams Table of Weights Pounds Ounces Grams Kilos 1 16 453.6 0.4536 0.0625 1 28.35 0.0283 0.0022 0.0352 1 0.001 2.205 35.27 1,000 1 160.Yummy Marihuana Recipes by The Jolly Roger Acapulco Green 3 ripe avocados cup chopped onions 2 teaspoons chili powder 3 tablespoons wine vinegar cup chopped marihuana (grass) Mix the vinegar, grass, and chili powder together and let the mixture stand for one hour. Then add avocados and onions and mash it all together. It can be served with tacos or as a dip. Pot Soup 1 can condensed beef broth 3 tablespoons grass 3 tablespoons lemon juice can water 3 tablespoons chopped watercress Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Place in a refrigerator for two to three hours, reheat, and serve. Pork and Beans and Pot 1 large can (1 lb. 13 oz.) pork and beans cup grass 4 slices bacon cup light molasses teaspoon hickory salt 3 pineapple rings Mix together in a casserole, cover top with pineapple and bacon, bake at 350 for about 45 minutes. Serves about six. The Meat Ball 1 lb. hamburger cup chopped onions 1 can cream of mushroom soup cup bread crumbs 3 tablespoons grass 3 tablespoons India relish Mix it all up and shape into meat balls. Brown in frying pan and drain. Place in a casserole with soup and cup water, cover and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Feeds about four people. Spaghetti Sauce 1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste 2 tablespoons olive oil cup chopped onions cup chopped grass 1 pinch pepper 1 can (6 oz.) water clove minced garlic 1 bay leaf 1 pinch thyme teaspoon salt Mix in large pot, cover and simmer with frequent stirring for two hours. Serve over spaghetti. Pot Loaf 1 packet onion soup mix 1 (16 oz.) can whole peeled tomatoes cup chopped grass 2 lbs. ground beef or chicken or turkey 1 egg 4 slices bread, crumbled Mix all ingredients and shape into a loaf. Bake for one hour in 400 oven. Serves about six. Chili Bean Pot 2 lbs. pinto beans 1 lb. bacon, cut into two-inch sections 2 cups red wine 4 tablespoons chili powder clove garlic 1 cup chopped grass cup mushrooms Soak beans overnight in water. In a large pot pour boiling water over beans and simmer for at least an hour, adding more water to keep beans covered. Now add all other ingredients and continue to simmer for another three hours. Salt to taste. Serves about ten. Bird Stuffing 5 cups rye bread crumbs 2 tablespoons poultry seasoning cup each of raisins and almonds cup celery 1/3 cup chopped onions 3 tablespoons melted butter cup chopped grass 2 tablespoons red wine Mix it all together, and then stuff it in. Apple Pot 4 apples (cored) cup brown sugar cup water 4 cherries 1/3 cup chopped grass 2 tablespoons cinnamon Powder the grass in a blender, then mix grass with sugar and water. Stuff cores with this paste. Sprinkle apples with cinnamon, and top with a cherry. Bake for 25 minutes at 350. Pot Brownies cup flour 3 tablespoons shortening 2 tablespoons honey 1 egg (beaten) 1 tablespoon water cup grass pinch of salt teaspoon baking powder cup sugar 2 tablespoons corn syrup 1 square melted chocolate 1 teaspoon vanilla cup chopped nuts Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together. Mix shortening, sugar, honey, syrup, and egg. Then blend in chocolate and other ingredients, and mix well. Spread in an 8-inch pan and bake for 20 minutes at 350. Banana Bread cup shortening 2 eggs 1 teaspoon lemon juice 3 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup sugar 1 cup mashed bananas 2 cups sifted flour cup chopped grass teaspoon salt 1 cup chopped nuts Mix the shortening and sugar, beat eggs, and add to mixture. Separately mix bananas with lemon juice and add to the first mixture. Sift flour, salt, and baking powder together, then mix all ingredients together. Bake for 1 hours at 375. Sesame Seed Cookies 3 oz. ground roast sesame seeds 3 tablespoons ground almonds teaspoon nutmeg cup honey teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon cinnamon oz. grass Toast the grass until slightly brown and then crush it in a mortar. Mix crushed grass with all other ingredients, in a skillet. Place skillet over low flame and add 1 tablespoon of salt butter. Allow it to cook. When cool, roll mixture into little balls and dip them into the sesame seeds. If you happen to be in the country at a place where pot is being grown, here's one of the greatest recipes you can try. Pick a medium-sized leaf off of the marihuana plant and dip it into a cup of drawn butter, add salt, and eat. 161.Peanuts by the Jolly Roger Try this sometime when you are bored! 1.Take one pound of raw peanuts (not roasted!) 2.Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells. 3.Eat the nuts. 4.Grind up the skins and roll them into a cigarette, and smoke! You'll have fun, believe me! 162.Chemical Fire Bottle by the Jolly Roger This incendiary bottle is self-igniting on target impact. Materials Required Material How Used Common Source Sulphuric Acid Storage Batteries Motor Vehicles Material Processing Industrial Plants Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas Station Motor Vehicles Potassium Chlorate Medicine Drug Stores Sugar Sweetening Foods Food Store Glass bottle with stopper (roughly 1 quart size) Small Bottle or jar with lid. Rag or absorbent paper (paper towels, newspaper) String or rubber bands Procedure: 1.Sulphuric Acid MUST be concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off. Container used to boil should be of enamel-ware or oven glass. CAUTION: Sulphuric Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also VERY dangerous and should not be inhaled. 2.Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. 3.Pour gasoline into the large 1 quart bottle until it is approximately 1/3 full. 4.Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1" to 2" from top. Place the stopper on the bottle. 5.Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water. CAUTION: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle during use! 6.Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands. 7.Dissolve cup (100 grams) of potassium chlorate and cup (100 grams) of sugar in one cup (250 cc) of boiling water. 8.Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly. The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is more than this, pour off excess before using. CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle! How To Use: 1.Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper around the large bottle. Bottle can be used wet or after solution is dried. However, when dry, the sugar-Potassium chlorate mixture is very sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly. 2.Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the fuel will ignite. 163.Igniter from Book Matches by The Jolly Roger This is a hot igniter made from paper book matches for use with molotov cocktail and other incendiaries. Material Required: Paper book matches Adhesive or friction tape Procedure: 1.Remove the staple(s) from match book and separate matches from cover. 2.Fold and tape one row of matches (fold in thirds) 3.Shape the cover into a tube with striking surface on the inside and tape. Make sure the folder cover will fit tightly around the taped match heads. Leave cover open at opposite end for insertion of the matches. 4.Push the taped matches into the tube until the bottom ends are exposed about 3/4 in. (2 cm) 5.Flatten and fold the open end of the tube so that it laps over about 1 in. (2- cm); tape in place. Use with a Molotov Cocktail: 1.Tape the "match end tab" of the igniter to the neck of the molotov cocktail. 2.Grasp the "cover and tab" and pull sharply or quickly to ignite. General Use: The book match igniter can be used by itself to ignite flammable liquids, fuse cords, and similar items requiring hot ignition. CAUTION: Store matches and completed igniters in moistureproof containers such as rubber or plastic bags until ready for use. Damp or wet paper book matches will not ignite. 164."Red or White Powder" Propellant by the Jolly Roger "Red or White Powder" Propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner. The formulation described below will result in approximately 2 pounds of powder. This is a small arms propellant and should only be used in weapons with in. diameter or less (but not pistols!). Material Required: Heat Source (Kitchen Stove or open fire) 2 gallon metal bucket Measuring cup (8 ounces) Wooden spoon or rubber spatula Metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 in. sq.) Flat window screen (at least 1 foot square) Potassium Nitrate (granulated) 2-1/3 cups White sugar (granulated) 2 cups Powdered ferric oxide (rust) 1/8 cup (if available) Clear water, 1- cups Procedure: 1.Place the sugar, potassium nitrate, and water in the bucket. Heat with a low flame, stirring occasionally until the sugar and potassium nitrate dissolve. 2.If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the flame under the mixture until it boils gently. NOTE: The mixture will retain the rust coloration. 3.Stir and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is reduced to one quarter of its original volume, then stir continuously. 4.As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches the consistency of cooked breakfast cereal or homemade fudge. At this stage of thickness, remove the bucket from the heat source, and spread the mass on the metal sheet. 5.While the material cools, score it with a spoon or spatula in crisscrossed furrows about 1 inch apart. 6.Allow the material to dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, restore it accordingly (about every 20 minutes) to aid drying. 7.When the material has dried to a point where it is moist and soft but not sticky to the touch, place a small spoonful on the screen. Rub the material back and forth against the screen mesh with spoon or other flat object until the material is granulated into small worm-like particles. 8.After granulation, return the material to the sun to allow to dry completely. 165.Pipe Hand Grenade by the Jolly Roger Hand Grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be of plastic or granular military explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from shotgun or small arms ammunition. Material Required: Iron Pipe, threaded ends, 1-" to 3" diameter, 3" to 8" long. Two (2) iron pipe caps Explosive or propellant Nonelectric blasting cap (Commercial or military) Fuse cord Hand Drill Pliers Procedure: 1.Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers. NOTE: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes a known length to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a 6 inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds. 2.Screw pipe cap to one end of the pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into the opposite end so that the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe. NOTE: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe BEFORE inserting blasting cap. Push a round stick into the center of the explosive to make a hole and then insert the blasting cap. 3.Pour explosive or propellant into pipe a little bit at a time. Tap the base of the pipe frequently to settle filler. 4.Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough for the fuse cord to pass through. 5.Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe cap over the fuse and screw hand tight onto the pipe. 166.European Credit Card Fraud by Creditman! UK credit card fraud is a lot easier than over in the States. The same basic 3 essentials are needed: 1.A safehouse. 2.Credit card numbers with Exp. date and address. 3.Good suppliers of next day delivery goods. The Safehouse The safehouse should be on the ground floor, so as not to piss off the delivery man when he comes to drop off your freshly stolen gear. If he has to go up 10 flights in a complete dive and some 14 year old kid signs for an A2000 then he's gonna wonder! Make sure there are no nosy neighbors, a good area is one full of yuppies 'cos they all go to work during daytime. Safehouses are usually obtained by paying a month's rent in advance or putting down a deposit of say, $200. Either that or break into a place and use that. Credit Card Numbers The card number, expiry date, start date (if possible), full name (including middle initial), phone number and full address with postcode are ideal. If you can only get the sirname, and no postcode, you shouldn't have any real hassle. Just say you moved recently to your new address. Phone number is handy, if it just rings and rings but if it doesn't, then make sure it's ex-directory. You CANNOT get away with giving them a bullshit phone number. Some fussy companies want phone numbers just to cross-check on CARDNET but generally it's not needed. To recap, here's a quick check-list: 1.Card number and expiry date. 2.Name and address of card holder. 3.First name/initials (OPTIONAL) 4.Start date (OPTIONAL) 5.Postcode (OPTIONAL) 6.Phone number (OPTIONAL) If you have all 6, then you shouldn't have any hassle. Start date is the rarest item you could be asked for, postcode and initials being more common. If you are missing 3-6 then you need one helluva smooth- talking bastard on the phone line!!!! The Ordering Not everyone can order $1000's of stuff - it's not easy. You have to be cool, smooth and have some good answers to their questions. I advise that you only order up to $500 worth of stuff in one go, but if you have details 1-6 and the phone number will NOT be answered from 9 to 5.30 P.M. then go up to $1000 (make sure it's a GOLD card!). When getting ready to order make sure you have at least 3 times the amount of suppliers you need e.g. if you want to card 5 hard-drives, make sure you have 15 suppliers. A lot of the time, they are either out stock, can't do next day delivery or won't deliver to a different address. Quick check list of what you must ask before handing over number: 1.Next day delivery, OK? 2.Ordered to different address to card, OK? 3.Do you have item in stock (pretty obvious, eh?) Make sure you ask ALL of these questions before handing over your precious number. Excuses Usual excuses for a different address are that it's a present or you're on business here for the next 5 weeks etc. Any old bullshit why it won't go to the proper address. WARNING! Invoices! WARNING! Invoices are sometimes sent out with the actual parcel but they are also sent out to the card owners (why do you think they need the address for?) so using a safehouse for more than 2 days is risky. A 1 day shot is safe, if they catch on then they'll stop the goods before getting a search warrant. Credit Limits Limits on cards reach from $500 to $4000 on Gold cards. Your average card will be about $1000-$1500. It takes a while to build up a good credit rating in order to have large limits so don't think every card will hold 12 IBM 386's! Visa and Access are always used - American Express etc. are USELESS. Access = Eurocard, Mastercard (begins with 5) Visa = (begins with 4, 16 digit is a Gold) A general rule is, always confirm an order to make sure credit is cleared. As the month goes on, credit is used up - the bad times are from 27th - 3rd which is when all the bills come in. Best time to card is around 11th or 12th, when the poor guy has paid off his last bill so you can run up a new one (he, he, he!). Ideal items to card The best stuff is always computer hard-ware as it's next-day. Amigas, ST's, PC's - anything really. Blank discs are a waste of time, they're too heavy. External drives, monitors - good stuff basically. Don't order any shit like VCR's, Hi-Fi, video-cameras, music keyboards, computer software, jewerely or anything under $300. You'll find the listed items are difficult to get next day delivery and usually won't deliver to a different address - bastards, eh? You're wasting your time with little items under $300, try to keep deliveries under 10 a day. The drop - Two ways of doing the drop 1.Sign for all the gear (make sure you're there between 9.00 and 5.30 P.M.) 2.Don't turn up till around 6.30 P.M. and collect all the cards that the delivery man has left. These usually say 'you were out at XX time so could you please arrange new time for delivery or pick up from our depot'. In that case, piss off to the depot and get all the gear (need a big car!). Remember, carding is ILLEGAL kiddies, so don't get caught. 167.Potassium Bomb by Exodus This is one of my favorites. This creates a very unstable explosive in a very stable container. You will need: 1.A two-ended bottle. These are kinda hard to find, you have to look around, but if you cant find one, you will need a similar container in which there are two totally separate sides that are airtight and accessible at the ends, like this: !airtight separator! ________________!_________________ | | | / | \ ---- | ---- | c | | |c | | a | | | a | |___p| | |__p_| \ | / | | | -----------------|------------------ the separator MUST remain airtight/watertight so this doesn't blow off your arm in the process (Believe me. It will if you are not exact.) 2.Pure potassium. Not Salt Peter, or any shit like that. This must be the pure element. This again may prove hard to find. Try a school chemistry teacher. Tell her you need it for a project, or some shit like that. Try to get the biggest piece you can, because this works best if it a solid chuck, not a powder. You can also try Edmund Scientific Co. at: Dept. 11A6 C929 Edscorp Bldg. Barrington, NJ 08007 or call 1-(609)-547-8880 3.Cotton 4.Water Instructions: Take the cotton and stuff some into one end of the container lining one side of the separator. Place some potassium, about the size of a quarter or bigger (CAREFULLY, and make sure your hands are PERFECTLY DRY, this stuff reacts VERY VIOLENTLY with water) into that side and pack it in tightly with all the cotton you can fit. Now screw the cap on TIGHTLY. On the other side of the separator, fill it with as much water as will fit, and screw that cap on TIGHTLY. You are now in possession of a compact explosive made somewhat stable. To explode, throw it at something! The water will react with the potassium, and BBBOOOOOOMMMM!!! Works great on windows or windshields, because the glass fragments go everywhere (stand back) and rip stuff apart. The bigger the piece, the bigger the boom. If no potassium can be found, try looking for PURE Sodium, it works well too. PS: You could also place this little sucker under the wheel of a car of someone you hate...(Wait till' they back over that one!!!) 168.Your Legal Rights by Exodus Because you possess this little collection of mostly illegal concepts, you should be aware of your legal rights IF arrested (hey, it happens to the worst of us). Your Legal Rights are: 1.Have a hearing before a magistrate or judge, as soon as possible after you are arrested. 2.Be notified of the charges against you. 3.Have a reasonable bail set, if bail is granted. 4.Have a FAIR, IMPARTIAL trial by jury. 5.Be present at all stages of the trial. 6.Confront your accusers. (without the baseball bat) 7.Have your lawyer cross-examine the witnesses. 8.Have your lawyer call on witnesses on your behalf. 9.Be tried for a crime only once. 10.Receive neither cruel nor unusual punishment if you are convicted of a crime and sentenced. NOTE!!!: These rights are for after you are arrested, and do not include the reading of the rights, etc. If these rights are violated in ANY way, that may be cause for a mistrial, or even total release. 169.How The Law Protects Juvenile Offenders by Exodus Juveniles accused of breaking the law are granted some special rights intended to protect the, because of their age. If a juvenile is charged with a crime punishable by a term in a reform school or juvenile detention facility, he is assured the right to: 1.Remain silent, and not incriminate himself/herself. 2.Be placed in quarters separate from adult offenders while being held in custody. 3.Be notified before a hearing of the charges against him. 4.Be released to his parents or guardians after signing a written promise to appear at his trial (unless the child is likely to run away and not come back to court unless he is dangerous or may himself be in danger if sent back home). 5.Be tried at proceedings that are closed to the public. 6.Have a record of the proceedings made, in case one is needed for a future appeal. 7.Be represented by a lawyer. 8.Have a lawyer appointed by the court if he cannot afford one. 9.Confront his accusers. 10.Have his lawyer cross-examine witnesses. Again, these rights are for after you have been arrested. 170.Down the Road' Missile by Exodus This missile is aptly named because it travels best down a street or road. This is nothing more that harmless phun intended to scare the living shit out of oncoming cars. How To Make A Missile All you need are: Hairspray can, or something else with flammable propellant (don't use spraypaint dipshit, it makes a big mess!) book of ordinary matches tape (clear if possible, its thinner) BB or pellet gun (use BB's if possible) Instructions: Tape the book of matches to the bottom of the can, y'know, the CONCAVE part. You might want to arrange the matches so that they are spread over a wide area of the bottom of the can, but close together. Shake the can up vigorously. Now place the can on its side with the nozzle of the can pointed in the direction you want it to go, down a road, off a ramp, at your sister, etc.. Now stand back a bit, and shoot at the matches. It should take off at about 30 ft per sec!! What happens in case you couldn't tell, is the BB hits the matches and causes a spark, and at roughly the same time, punctures the weak bottom of the can. As the propellant sprays out, it hopefully comes in contact with the spark, and presto. If you don't do it right you'll blow a lot of money because each can only be used once, so experiment to find best results. In The Air Missile: Compile the rocket as stated before, and put it vertical on a stand of some sort with the bottom accessible. Place a section of PVC pipe 95 preferred and shoot into the PVC pipe which should direct the BB upward, and the can should take off. Experiment w/ different cans, its hard to find ones that work perfectly, and still go higher than 30 ft. 171.Phun With Shotgun Shells by Exodus This phile is for those have no concern for themselves or the person they wanna fuck over with this. (in short, a fucking MANIAC!!!) DoorBlams Shotgun shells are wonderful. They can be used in almost any situation where pain or amputation of limbs is concerned (including your own if you are not EXTREMELY careful. The best way to use shells, is the DoorBlam. The DoorBlam is a simple concoction of a shell taped to the back of a door with the ignition button facing away from the door (so it blows out against the door). Now position it somewhere where it will do the damage you want. i.e.- near the top for decapitation, middle for slow death, or low to make the victims kneecaps fly across the room. Now tape a thumbtack against a wall or something that that part of the door bumps up against. Tape it to the wall so that the point pokes through the tape, and position it so it will hit the ignite button upon impact... Its that simple. Instant pain! Long Range Explosives These are THE most difficult explosive I have ever tried to make (people I know have lost fingers and hands to this little fucker) IF you have a VVVVERY still hand, it might be accomplished. Ignite buttons usually take some force to make it blow, so CAREFULLY & LIGHTLY push a tack through tape and tape it to the back of the shell, with the tip of the tack LIGHTLY touching the button. Add more tape to the back to hold the pin in place. If you still have hands at this point, consider yourself lucky. Now you need to add a weight to the tack-end part to make sure it hits the ground first. Taping small rocks or making the shell by putting heavy loads towards the button helps. Placing a cracker (yes a cracker (Saltines, anyone ?)) between the tack-point and the button helps prevent detonation upon THROWING, which DOES happen. Now toss it up high and AWAY from you, and RUN LIKE SHIT does after you eat Mexican. 172.Electronic Accessories by Exodus Some phreaks believe in the down-n-dirty customizing of equipment by crafting it themselves...not me! I believe that the other guy should build the stuff, and I'll steal it and use it later. This is a list of places where one can obtain the devices that would other wise have to be built by hand. But after all, a good phreak can take a pre-made item and adapt it to his needs..... Radar Jammers: The "Eclipse" $199.00 T.E.K. Distributors PO Box 32287 Fridley, MN 55432 (612)-783-1666 Surveillance: fone bugging, fone recording sys., etc... EDE catalog $5 PO Box 337 Buffalo, NY 14226 (716)-691-3476 USI Corp., catalog: $2 PO Box PM-2052 Melbourne, FL 32902 (407)-725-1000 Protector catalog $5 PO Box 520294-M Salt Lake City, UT 84152 (801)-487-3823 FREE catalog: 1-800-732-5000 SpyMart catalog $4 PO Box 340-M Morehead City, NC 28557 MICRO-VIDEO: SUPERCIRCUITS catalog $3 13552 Research Blvd. #B-2 Austin, TX 78750 Scanners: CRB FREE catalog PO Box 56 Commack, NY 11725 HPR PO Box 19224PM Denver, CO 80219 (request information, I guess!?) MISC: INFORMATION UNLIMITED <<<---REALLY COOL SHIT, THE GOOD STUFF. PO Box 716, Dept. PM294 (kinda expensive, so get ready to Amherst, NH 03031 CARD!!) FREE catalog (w/order, otherwise $1.00) EDMUND SCIENTIFIC (always a fucking GREAT place to find the little Dept. 14D2, nitty-gritty electronics that make up C908 EdsCorp Bldg. colored boxes, and the like) Barrington, NJ 08007 173.Drip Timer by Exodus Another method of time delay for explosives that are detonated by electric means, is the drip timer. Fill a 'baggy' with water and then add as much salt as the water will hold. Seal it, leaving some air inside. Then, tape the two contact wires from which the circuit has been broken, to the inside of a large cup. Place the baggy on the cup. Poke a hole in the top of the 'baggy', where there is air, and then make a hole in the bottom to let the water drain into the cup. As any Einstein figures, the salt water level in the cup will eventually conduct electricity at the moment both wires touch water, thus completing the circuit. I have yet to try this timer out, and I got the plans from a total idiot, phreaker nonetheless, and doubt it would work with any power source under 12v. 174.Stealing by Exodus It is strange just how many files there are out there that try to document the art of stealing. After all, it IS an art. You have to be calm, smooth, persistent, patient. Stealing is not an overnight-planned operation. You should try to prepare for at least a week or more when planning to steal from a house, and even LONGER when from a business. Story time, kiddies: A long time ago, well, in the past year, my friends and I noticed that the building complex in our town was the perfect place to obtain unpaid-for items. We learned all we could about the complex, which was about 365,000 sqft, and each company consisted of an office (fully furnished with cool computer stuff), and a 10,000 sqft (roughly) warehouse, all interconnected, and all one level. This information was obtained through several calls to the town committee (board of development, or some shit like that, the place that you call for building permits, and the like.), and we obtained the blueprints for the whole complex. We planned a route from the side entrance through the warehouse, and into the offices, where all the good stuff is usually located. Now that we had our route, all we needed was a plan to get inside. Since this was our first major job, we spent a few good weeks on preparation. During the snow weather, we worked w/ a company to shovel the sidewalks of the complex. One night, at about 11 PM, we stopped shoveling in front of our planned job site, Campbell's Soup, Co. There was nobody there except the janitors that cleaned up the place (or so we thought). I asked the janitor if I could use the bathroom (I did have to go too) and he let me in. I must have surprised him when I knew exactly where the bathroom was! As I walked to it, I scanned for video cams, infrared guns/receivers (little boxes at entrances with a black glass square about 1" sq. at about knee height on each side). Nothing. The doors all had security magnetic detection at the tops, and also the windows. To think someone would break in through an obvious place like a large window, stupid. To my surprise, there were a few losers working late, and didn't really care that I was there at all. Take another Viverin' guys, I won't be here long. The smell of black coffee was stifling. The bathroom was located back by the office's entrance to the warehouse, and to my surprise, it was unlocked! The lights were on, and the place was totally empty, except for a few cardboard remains, and shelves, and that blessed side door. I walked over to the door to examine it. No security, no video cams in the warehouse, no nothing. Odd, usually these warehouses were kept tight as a hookers pussy. But it looked like they were packing up to move somewhere. Boxes on the office desks, etc.. The door was locked with a key deadbolt (pain to pick) and a regular door-knob key lock. No problem. I needed to stop that deadbolt from being locked, so I looked around for something to use....aha! There was some strange material like alum. foil on the ground, pliable, yet of a black color. I took out a small allen key (a thief never goes ANYWHERE without a small lockpicking tool) and crammed enough of the stuff into the keyhole so that a key could not be inserted far enough to turn, and the stuff was in to far to be pulled out. Viola! Back to the point of this story. When the time came to make our move, something strange happened. The place was abandoned for 3 days straight, most office equipment removed, and the front door left ajar, for all 3 days. We still decided to enter via our planned route. At 1:30 AM we went to the side door, and what a surprise, the deadbolt lock was open. Now to the knob lock. It was still locked, but not a problem. Knob locks usually look like this: |-wall socket> -------------------------- | ) d -------------------------------| o | | o | ) r | ) | ) ------------------------- | |-wall socket> The top sliding piece is about " wide on popular locks, with the bar facing you, if the door swings outward. With the smallest allen key you can get, stick it in and repetitively push and slide it back towards the knob, but don't let go, because it is spring loaded and will snap back into place again. Now for the larger bar. Take another key and wedge it into the slot where the bar enters the other wall (without the knob on it)! and do the same thing. This will be considerably harder to do than with the small tongue, but if you practiced like you should have, it will open with minimum effort. Now we were inside. We ran through the warehouse though the warehouse/office door (these are rarely locked, but try to prepare for it ahead of time by "cramming the lock" like I did) and into the office. The place was empty, no shelves, just desks, chairs, and boxes. The boxes contained modems, motherboards, bus cards, printers, cables, fone cable, and one contained a Zenith laptop computer! No shit, this is a true story! We took everything we could carry (5 people). We took all the above mentioned, as well as printer toner, fones, fone jacks, documents, desk chairs, insulated boxes and bags (static-free kind), even the little shit things, like outlet plates, light bulbs, ANYTHING!!! We went really crazy, and were out in 2 min 30 sec.(always set a time limit) We wound up throwing half the shit away, but it felt great just to take anything that was not ours!! I have since then done other "jobs" with much more precision, and effort, as well as better rewards. Here are some tips that should be followed when attempting to steal: WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!! Backpacks for everyone to put the loot in. Always case the joint for at least a week and keep documented records of who leaves when, what time it closes, timed lights, etc... Have at least 4 phriends with you, and ,please, make sure they know what they are doing, no idiots allowed! Bring tools :small allen keys, both types of screwdrivers, standard size, and tiny, hacksaw blade, wire cutters and strippers, spraypaint-to leave your handle on the wall, hammer, mace, gun-if available, flashlights (duh), wire-good for re-routing door security, and bolt cutters. Designate a person to carry all the tools ONLY-don't have him pickup stuff and mix it with the tools, this will only slow you down later if you need to look fir a tool quickly. Designate a person to STAY PUT by the door and keep watch. Designate a timer, one who has a lighted stopwatch. Make runs NO LONGER THAT 3 MIN. EVEN THIS TIME IS EXTREMELY HIGH-TRY TO KEEP AS LOW AS POSSIBLE. Getaway vehicle (preferably NOT a van or pickup truck, these will be very suspicious to the mean cops. And don't speed, or anything, this just attracts attention. Cover license plates till just before you get your asses going, so no one can report the plates to the pigs..oops!, damn, did it again, cops. Make sure you remove covering before leaving. Always keep flashlights pointed DOWN unless necessary, crawl under windows, no shouting, even if you find some phucking cool shit, on second thought, maybe painting your handle is a little stupid, so forget that, wear dark clothes OVER regular, non-suspicious clothes (get changed first thing in the car) Never brag about your findings in public, only on modem, or on BBS, and never give names of places, phriends, and exact names of things taken, (just say you 'borrowed' a 486DX 33 motherboard, don't say is a Intel 486DX 33 MHz for an IBM PS/1 model 50, serial #XXXXXXXXXXXX. that is just plain dumb) Have phun!! and never steal from your neighborhood. If you break into houses, never move stuff around; the longer it takes the yuppie family to realize that you were there, the better. WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!!!!!!! To get in windows: shoot window with BB gun, and place clear, sticky hard-cover book covering on the window over the hole, hopefully the impact of the shot was enough to crack the glass, and LEAN OR PUSH on the covered glass, do not hit or kick, and you will see that the majority of the glass will stick to the covering, and will make considerably less noise. Enter through basement windows preferably under a deck or steps. MAKE SURE THE PEOPLE WILL BE GONE FOR THE NIGHT AND THE NEIGHBORS ARE ASLEEP (GO FOR AROUND 2:30 AM) Take stuff that will sell easily to friends, and don't waste time taking things that look neat, just take the basics: electronic, computer, TV, VCR, some jewelry-things you could easily hock, preferably without inscriptions, raid the fridge, take good quality fones, stereo equip., speakers, etc.. Always case the outside of the house looking for security stickers that yuppie families like to place in full view. Do mischievous shit like cut all fone lines in house, cut up couch cushions, and flip them over so they look perfectly normal!; shoot a hole in their fish tank, (all yuppies own fish); slash clothes, then put them back into the drawer; unplug fridge; set thermostat way up to 99.9; leave drain plugged and let the faucet run just a little, (for 6 hours!!); whatever you can't take or carry out, destroy in a subtle way, -if you can't carry out those 130 lb. wood case stereo speakers, slash the cones; break ball-point pens open and rub them into the carpet with their shoes; run a magnet over audio and VCR cassettes and floppies, and anything else subtle that would brighten their day. 175.MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION by Exodus Easy explosive: Fill Kodak film case (y'know, the black cylinder with the gray cap) with explosive of your choice. Drill hole in gray lid, insert fuse, and tape it back together very tightly. Light. -or- Poke a hole it the gray cap facing outwards, and insert an M-80 with fuse going through the hole and reseal, taping it tightly ALL AROUND the case. Place in plastic mailbox, light, close door, and get the hell away! Because of the tight airspace, the destructive power of the explosion is increased 5X. Works under water too, with a drop of wax, or preferably rubber cement around where the cap and wick meet. -and- Fill a GLASS coke/pepsi bottle with 1 part gas, 1 part sugar, & 1 part water. Wedge an M-80 into the top about halfway. Shake the container, place in mailbox (hopefully with mail {hehe!}) light, and get the fuck away. This thing sends glass shrapnel EVERYWHERE, including through their mail. Doorknob Shocker: Run a wire from one slot in wall outlet to the bracket in the wall that the knob's tongue inserts into. Run another wire from the other slot to an inconspicuous spot on the DOORKNOB. How does that one *grab* you? Phone Loops: (remember, tone + silence = connection) NUMBER | Tone/Silence (T/S) End | STATUS (on connection) --------------------------------------------------------------------- ?-???-???-???? S no match 1-619-748-0002 T definite tone x-xxx-749-xxxx T definite tone ?-???-???-???? S no match 1-619-739-0002 T definite tone x-xxx-xxx-xxx1 S not sure of match x-xxx-738-0002 T definite x-xxx-xxx-0020 S definite x-xxx-7xx-0002 T definite ?-???-???-???? S no match Actually, any 1-619-7x9-000x gives tone detect, finding the other silent connection is a wee bit harder. If anyone manages to complete some of these, or any loops, please let me know. The only bad thing about loop lines, is that eventually the Gestapo finds out about the over-use of the line, and assigns the number to anyone who wants a new number for their fone. Then when phreaks begin to use the line again, thinking it is a loop, they get a pissed off yuppie who then has the call traced, and that's like putting your balls right in a door and slamming it. The operator will complain in your face, and say some bullshit like she has your number and will report any disturbances to the fone co. if she sees it again. Simple Virus/Easy Way To Return A Copied Program (hehe!) When you buy a game, or something from a computer store, copy it, and want to return it (I know all of you do this), sometimes all the store does is re-cellophane it and it goes back on the shelves without being re-tested. If the original floppies have an AUTOEXEC.BAT file on them to initiate the copying/decompression at boot-up, simply edit it to say: cd\ del c:*.* y That'll make someone's day real funny, especially if the store tries to test it. Or, in most cases the store will not accept returned merchandise if it is not defective, so DEFECT IT. This is done by using a program that shows the date and time the originals were last modified (check for this BEFORE installing the program!!!!!!) such as DosShell, or XTGold. Then set the date and time on your computer to match the originals date and time (approx). Install the program, and/or copy the originals and manuals. Now fuck around with the decompression file (usually PKUNZIP), the installation file, and any others you see. Now the store has no reason, and MUST accept the product as a return, or sometimes they will give you a return check for the $$, and send the program back to the manufacturer, which is good, because it will then be recopied, resealed, and put back on the shelves somewhere for another phreaker to HACK!! (If the above date/time matching is too much of a pain for the really retarded out there, set your computer date/time to any past ones close to the originals, and fuck with ALL the files, thus making them all match.) Battery Bombs: Batteries like Duracell, Eveready, Energizer, etc... are specially made for home use and will not under any condition, explode when simply connected to each other. Therefore, generic batteries are required. These batteries can be obtained in hick country, or from a shitty wholesaler. I've heard of phriends putting 9Vs in the fucking microwave for a minute or so, and this is supposed to disable the "exploder protector", but anyone who puts batteries in a microwave, should have the batteries explode on them. I never found out if 2 9v batts connected really do explode. I hope so. Any Blue Boxers?? Not many people use blue boxes these days. They've become an eminent danger to phreakers. Ma Bell has new equipment to detect the use of tone-emitting boxes, and about the only safe place to box calls from is the handy-dandy pay phone at the end of the block. The only way to box calls today is to switch off to another switching system with another number: i.e.- Call a store like Toys-'R'-Us, (1-908-322-6065 Livingston, NJ) and ask for the technical (video game) department. This switches the number from the above to the extension of the department, usually and extension, but it can be a totally different # you are sent to while you are on hold. This is VERY good. Bullshit the employee at the tech dept., and wait for HIM to hang up first. That disconnects you from his department, but not from the interconnections of the store. (It might even be possible to dial a number and get another department at this point). This is like 'stacking' trunks. Their dialtone (inside the store) may have a slightly higher/lower pitch than a dialtone at your house. This is what you want. Now, blow 2600 across the line, and you should have access to a trunk, and Bell Labs think that the store did it, and it is not usually questioned because the computer might think that it is part of their paging system. (not 100% sure, test around) When someone (preferably who you don't give a shit about) calls, dial *69 to ring him back(If your area subscribes to this feature). What should happen is that the *69 tone asks the Bell computer to call back the person. The COMPUTER does the calling at this point. Now when your friend picks up, bullshit him into hanging up first. Now the computer is getting the dialtone first, then it passes it on to you. If you blow 2600 at this point, the computer may think it is its own equipment doing the calling. I'm REALLY not sure about this one. Hopefully this one works, but I can't test it because some fucked up, shit full, douche nozzle, pig fucker broke my MF box. MF boxes are not that hard to come by. Many hobby shops, music instrument stores, or electronic stores may sell the MF box itself, or one that detects tones, which can be used in the reverse way. Good Technical Phone Numbers: Sometimes the hardest part of getting technical support is finding a place to look. An easy place is MIT (HOME OF THE ORIGINAL PHREAKS) Find the number for the Electronic engineering campus, call and say you would like the number for (give room # make one up if you have to), or call the person in charge of dorm assignments (buy a college book if you need to). Eventually, if done right, you will have a list of possible #s, and set your modem on scan, and look for carrier detect. One of these nerds...ahm! I mean Geniuses must have a computer with a modem, and these guys will answer about 100% of your technical problems. Practical Jokes: If you are into practical jokes like I am, than here is a book for you: "The Second Official Handbook of Practical Jokes" by: Peter Van Der Linden There are hundreds of good practical jokes and phone scams, as well as a section of computer jokes, with a whole program of re-writing the COMMAND.COM file to be funnier than ever. 176.Shaving Cream Bomb by Exodus This may not really be what we would consider a bomb, but it is a helluva great idea to phuck someone over. You will need: (1) Person you hate who has a car. (1)-Container of liquid nitrogen (try a science shop, or Edmund Scientific, mentioned in several places in this Cookbook) (6-10)-Cans of generic shaving cream. (1)-Free afternoon (preferably in FREEZING temperatures outside) (1-or more)-Pairs of pliers, for cutting and peeling. Some phriends. Directions: Find someone who owns a small compact car, and manage to find out where he keeps it at night (or while he is away!) Be able to open the car repeatedly.. Place a can in the liquid nitrogen for about 30 sec. Take it out and carefully and QUICKLY peel off the metal outside container, and you should have a frozen "block" of shaving cream. (It helps to have more than one container, and more phriends) Toss it into the car and do the same with all the cans. A dozen or more "blocks" like this can fill and lightly PRESSURIZE a small car. When he opens the door (hopefully he doesn't realize the mess inside due to the foggy windows), he will be covered with pounds of shaving cream that is a bitch to get out of upholstery. PS!- Try to get one is his glove compartment!!!!! 177.Another good way to rip off a change or drink machine by ?d lsh You first get a nice new dollar to work with. Make sure there are no rips in it. Now, you get a thin piece of transparent plastic about 3/4 the width of the actual dollar. It must be a good 6" or longer. Next, you need some transparent tape. Scotch magic tape will work the best. You simply tape the plastic strip to the dollar. But, you must be careful not to tape it more than " up the side of the dollar. Tape it on both sides (front and back, not top and bottom) of the dollar. Now, all you have to do is use it: Walk casually up to the secluded machine. Take out your dollar, and put it into the machine. BE CAREFUL! Some of the more modern change machines have alarms! Most likely, though, drink or candy machines will not. Now, the machine starts taking your dollar.... You wait until your plastic strip is almost all the way into the machine, and then you pull with sufficient force to get the dollar out of the machine, but not rip it. If you did it correctly, you should have gotten whatever you bought, and still have your dollar for later use. On candy machines, though, make your selection, and then wait and pull the dollar out. Don't worry if you don't get it on the first few tries. It took me about 5 tries to master it. It DOES, I repeat DOES work for a fact if done correctly. If you just can't get it, though, either the machine is too sophisticated, or you put the tape up too high on the dollar. Have fun!!!! 178.Lockpicking for the EXTREME beginner... by ?d lsh This is really a good method for opening doors that are locked. The only problem with this, though, is that it only works for outward opening doors. OK, here we go.... 1.Realize you are not working with the actual lock, but that thing that sticks between the door and the wall. 2.See how that thing is curved on one side? Well, that is what we will be making use of. 3.Acquire a large paper-clip. If it is too short, it won't work. You have to also have a shoelace. Now, onto the construction... 4.Straighten the paper-clip. 5.Loop one end of the paper clip around the shoelace. The shoelace should be about 4/5 on one side of the clip and 1/5 on the other. Let's see if I can draw it. ------------------************************************* -* ******* --- is the paper clip *** is the shoelace That's not very good, but I hope you get the picture. 6.All you have to do now is curve the paper clip (no, I won't draw it) 7.With the curved paper-clip, stick it between the door and the wall, behind the metal thing that sticks between. 8.Feed it through with you hand, until you can grip both sides of the shoelace. 9.Now, simply pull the lace and the door at the same time, and VIOLA! the door is open. I prefer this over regular lock-picking if the door opens outward, because it is a lot quicker. Lock picking can take 5 minutes... When done correctly this only takes 30 seconds! So, if you can, use this. 179.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - PRELUDE VOLUME by Exodus For you people that like blowing things up and shit like that, here's something that's not as dangerous or as difficult as more of the explosives available (or able to create)... It's called the LN Bomb (Short for Liquid Nitrogen Bomb). Very easy to make: Ingredients: 1 Plastic Two Liter Bottle Enough Liquid Nitrogen To Fill The Bottle Instructions: Fill the bottle with liquid nitrogen. Then cap as tightly as possible. The vaporization of the nitrogen will create enough pressure in the bottle (within 5-15 minutes) to break it with a quite strong explosive force... Very Easy... USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.... 800 #'s to phuck with Compiled by The Duelist CALL JYER INC. xxx-xxx-xxxx Numbers with a ? either call forward to take you on some trip through switches, but I'm sure if you fuck around with it enough you will get there tone somewhere. Have fun....... Later! 800- 4261244 ? 6456561 VMS 2471753 ? 5244040 ? 6348026 ? 6677827 ? 8723425 ? (Extension dialer) 9928911 ? Modem 6242367 VMS (#) 4262468 ? 3389549 VMS 2220400 ? 5376001 ? 3439255 VMS (#) 8326979 ? 2339558 VMS 7299000 ? 5335545 ? 3332222 ? 3335555 VMS 3338888 ? =========== TOLL-FREE NUMBERS AND ON-LINE DATABASES ========== There are many toll-free assistance numbers and on-line databases available to federal, state, local, and private sector personnel. Some may be available through a federal or state agency, while others are publicly available on commercial systems or through private organizations. 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The reading room provides a place for concerned citizens to review release data as supplied to the Environmental Protection Agency (through section 313 reporting). To date, the center has received more than 50,000 of the 300,000 release reports anticipated. The TRC's is intended to serve as a central receipt point, aid in the sorting recording and storage of release data reported under Title III. Additionally the TRC is to provide an easy method to facilitate public inquiries. Anyone can access the chemical information by logging onto a data base and calling the information up by using CAS number, state, city and/or facility name. Staff from Computer Based Systems, Inc. (EPA contractor) are on-hand to assist with system inquiries between 8:00 am and 4:00 PM, Monday through Friday. To schedule an appointment, please call (202)488-1501. CHEMICAL EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS PROGRAM (CEPP) - 1-(800) 535-0202 (202) 479-2449 Contact: Chemical Emergency Preparedness Program (CEPP) Office of Solid Waste and Emergency Preparedness US Environmental Protection Agency (WH-548A) 401 M Street, SW Washington, DC 20460 EMERGENCY MANAGEMENT INFORMATION CENTER (EMIC) - 1-800-638-1821 (301) 447-6771 ext 6032 Contact: EMIC Librarian, Learning Resource Center National Emergency Training Center 16825 South Seton Avenue Emmitsburg, Maryland 21727 FEMA established EMIC (Emergency Management Information Center) to assist faculty, staff, students and off-campus users of the National Emergency Training Center Learning Resource Center with their research and information needs. EMIC is a special collection of natural and technological case study documents that can be requested for loan to state level fire and emergency management officials by applying in writing, on official letterhead, to the EMIC librarian. Other requests will be referred back to appropriate states for handling. SUPERFUND AND RESOURCE CONSERVATION AND RECOVERY ACT - 1-800-424-9346 (202) 382-3000 Contact: For Superfund -- Office of Emergency and Remedial Response US Environmental Protection Agency 401 M Street, SW Washington, DC 20460 For CERCLA -- Office of Waste Programs Enforcement US Environmental Protection Agency 401 M Street, SW Washington, DC 20460 EPA established the toll free technical assistance hotline in 1980 to answer questions and provide documents to those needing information on the Superfund and Resource Conservation and Recovery Act. TOXIC SUBSTANCES CONTROL ACT (TSCA) - (202) 554-1404 Contact: Toxic Substances Control Act Assistance Office Office of Toxic Substances US Environmental Protection Agency PRIVATE SECTOR TOLL FREE TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE SUPPORT CHEMTREC: 1-(800) 424-9300. Alaska, Hawaii and DC (202) 483-7616 Contact: Chemical Manufacturers Association 2501 M Street, NW Washington, DC 20037. The Chemical Manufacturers Association set up the Chemical Transportation Emergency Center (CHEMTREC) to provide immediate assistance to those at the scene of accident, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. CHEMTREC maintains an online database on the chemical, physical, and toxicological properties and health effects of the thousands of products of the member companies. CHEMTREC operates in two stages: first, staff provide chemical information for use in onsite decision making involving handling the early stages of the problem and, second, notifies the manufacturer of the product of the accident for more detailed information and appropriate follow-up. CHEMNET is activated by a call to CHEMTREC. If a member shipper cannot respond promptly to an incident and a chemical expert is required at a site, then the shipper can authorize a CHEMNET-contracted emergency response company to go in its place. CHLOREP: Emergency contact through CHEMTREC above. Contact: Chlorine Institute 342 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10017. The Chlorine Institute in 1972 established its Chlorine Emergency Plan (CHLOREP), a mutual-aid response network of chlorine manufacturers and packagers, to provide assistance at chlorine emergencies in the United States and Canada through telephone instructions to on-scene personnel or the dispatching of trained teams to sites. Response is activated by a call to CHEMTREC which in turn calls the designated CHLOREP contact, who notifies the appropriate team leader based upon CHLOREP's geographical sector team assignments. CAER: Community Awareness and Emergency Response information line. This is a 2 minute recorded message informing callers of upcoming events related to coordinated emergency response planning. The CAER information number is (202) 463-1599 and is updated twice a month. To submit an event to be publicized, send the materials to: Todd Miller CMA Communications Dept. 2501 M Street, NW Washington, DC 20037 The Center for Fire Research in the National Bureau of Standards has established a public access computer bulletin board. Contact: Doug Walton System Operator U(301) 975-6872 Information on the bulletin board includes: A listing of the most recent reports from the Center for Fire Research; Information on upcoming activities at the Center for Fire Research such as conferences, seminars and workshops; and Information on FIREDOC, the Center's fire research bibliographic system. FEDERAL AND STATE AGENCY ONLINE DATABASES The Office of Solid Waste and Emergency Response (OSWER) bulletin board is intended to store communications and technology transfer among the Regions and with Headquarters staff involved in solid or hazardous waste regulation, permitting, or enforcement and with ORD scientists and engineers in Headquarters and laboratories who are supporting OSWER. The OWSER is operated under contract to the Office of Program Management Technology (OPMT). The OSWER BBS offers messages, bulletins, files and computer programs, databases, and conferences. Bulletins include OSWER technical training opportunities and ORD technology transfer seminars nationwide, new ORD technical publications, the top 25 compounds found at Superfund Sites, and the current status of the SITE technology demonstrations. Conferences include: Executive (for EPA managers only), Ground-Water Workstation, Ground-Water Monitoring and Remediation, Risk Management/Assessment, and Expert Systems/Geographic Information Systems. The BBS is primarily intended for EPA Regional, Headquarters, and ORD personnel, however, OSWER welcomes state and local government agencies and authorized EPA contractors. The BBS telephone number is (301) 589-8366, the voice line is (301) 589-8368. The Hazardous Materials Information Systems (HMIS) offers two menu-driven programs to assist state, local and Federal agencies. The US Department of Transportation (DOT), Research and Special Programs Administration's (RSPA) project offers quick access to both exemptions information and informal interpretations. The exemptions menu provides access to the following: exemption numbers, exemption holders, expiration dates, container type and DOT specification, hazardous material, shipping name and class, and regulations affected. The interpretations menu provides access to informal interpretations issued by the Standards Division, Office of Hazardous Materials Transportation. Each search provides: requester, subject, commodity, container and regulations affected. This service is provided FREE to state, local, and federal agencies. Private sector organizations cannot get an account on the HMIS but can call to receive printouts on information they need (there is a fee for the printout). In order to gain access to the HMIS you must FIRST ESTABLISH AN ACCOUNT by contacting: Lessie Graves Office of Hazardous Materials Transportation Information Services Unit FTS/COMM: (202) 366-4555 Occupational Safety and Health Administration's (OSHA) Computerized Information System (OCIS) is designed to aid OSHA, State OSHA Program, and OSHA Area Office staff in responding to employers' and employees' occupational safety and health problems by maintaining quick access to various computerized information files. OCIS files are maintained on a Digital Vax 11/750 computer at the Salt Lake City Laboratory; BASIS is the database management software; system is accessed from OSHA and State Program offices only; files are menu driven; and new capabilities are under development. Questions and comments can be directed to: OCIS Help Desk (801) 524-5366 or 524-5896 FTS 588-5366 or 588-5896 The National Library of Medicine's (NLM) Toxicology Data Network (TOXNET) is a computerized system of toxicologically oriented data banks, offering a sophisticated search and retrieval package which permits efficient access to information on known chemicals and identifies unknown chemicals based on their characteristics. TOXNET files include: Hazardous Substances Data Bank (HSDB), Toxicology Data Bank (TDB), and Chemical Carcinogenesis Research Information ,System (CCRIS). Registered NLM users can access TOXNET by direct dial or through TELENET or TYMNET telecommunications networks. The nations average search charges (per hour) are $75.00 for prime time. For detailed information on TOXNET contact: National Library of Medicine Specialized Information Services Biomedical Files Implementation Branch 8600 Rockville Pike Bethesda, MD 20894 (301) 496-6531 or 496-1131 COMMERCIAL AND PRIVATE ONLINE DATABASES FIREDOC: Nations available From NBS The Center for Fire Research in the National Bureau of Standards has made its computerized bibliographic system, FIREDOC, available for searching on-line. The system can be accessed by telephone using a computer as a terminal. About 7,000 items from the Center's collection are currently entered in the FIREDOC system. For further information including instructions on access and use of FIREDOC, contact: Nora Jason Technical Information Specialist Center for Fire Research (301) 975-6862 CFRBBS is a public access computer bulletin board sponsored by: the Center for Fire Research, National Bureau of Standards, US Department of Commerce, in Gaithersburg, MD 20899. It features computer programs developed by the Center of Fire Research. Contents of the board include: fire simulation programs, information on FIREDOC (the Center for Fire Research bibliographic search system; FIREDOC users guide; and FIREDOC compatible communications package), information on upcoming activities at the Center for Fire Research, and a listing of the most recent year's reports from the center. There is no connect fee for using the board; however the user pays for the phone call. For more information contact Doug Walton, System Operator, at (301) 975-6872. Public Health Foundation's Public Health Network (PHN) users have full access to all GTE Medical Information Network (MINET) services, and can communicate directly with users in PHN and other divisions of MINET. Access to Surgeon General, NLM/NIH, CDC, and American Medical Association information services (e.g., Disease Information, Drug Information, Medical Procedure Coding, Socioeconomic Bibliography, Expert Medical Physician Information Retrieval and Education Service, Massachusetts General Hospital (MGH) Continuing Medical Education, and AP Medical News Service) are available ranging in price from $21 to $39 an hour of connect time. Subscription fee, payable on a one-time basis is $500.00, each additional user is registered at $25.00, and a User's Guide costs $15.00. Connect time rates range from $14 an hour peak to $7 an hour off-peak, character transmission charges are $.05 per 1,000 characters. For detailed information on PHN or MINET contact: The Public Health Foundation 1220 L Street, NW Suite 350 Washington, DC 20005 (202) 898-5600 Information Consultants, Inc.'s Chemical Information System (ICIS) and Chemical Information System, Inc.'s (Fein Marquart Associates) System (CIS) are two competing companies which offer approximately 35 databases each, some similar, others different. Databases available for searching include, for example: Oil and Hazardous Materials Technical Assistance Data System (OHMTADS) with emphasis on environmental and safety data for spills response; Chemical Evaluation Search and Retrieval (CEASARS) gives very detailed, evaluated profiles with physical and chemical, toxicological and environmental information; NIOSH Registry of Toxic Effects of Chemical Substances (RTECS) with acute toxdata, TLV's, standards, aquatic tox, regulatory information, and NTP test status; Chemical Carcinogensis Research Information System (CCRIS) giving results of carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, tumor promotion and carcinogenicity tests under National Cancer Institute contract; GENETOX with genetic assay studies; AQUIRE with aquatic toxicity information; DERMAL with dermal toxicity information. Subscriber ($300 per year and $25-85 per hour of connect time) and nonsubscriber ($50-115 per hour connect time) options exist. For detailed information contact: CIS, Inc. or Information Consultants, Inc. Fein Marquart Associates 1133 15th St., NW 7215 York Road Washington, DC 20005 Baltimore, MD 21212 (202) 822-5200 (800) 247-8737 180. ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 1 by Exodus You may ask "Now why would I want to know some obsolete, unused, utterly useless, toll free numbers" Well, what you use this information for is up to you, and if you want to use it for some thing like... well, like, forcing that line to be busy for 2 straight days thus causing the company to lose money, is completely up to you. Magazines =-=-=-=-= Playgirl Advisor (800) 854-2878 (except CA) TV Guide (800) 523-7933 (except PA) Ladie's Home Journal (800) 327-8351 (except FA) Sports Illustrated (800) 621-8200 (except IL) Book Digest Magazine (800) 228-9700 (except Nebraska) Money (800) 621-8200 (except IL) Mail Order =-=-=-=-=- (bowling equip.) (800) 323-1812 (except IL) Edd the Florist, Inc. (800) 247-1075 (except IA) Golf Mail Order Co. (800) 327-1760 (except FA) Inflate-a-bed (800) 835-2246 (except KS) International Male (800) 854-2795 (except CA) Porta Yoga (c.c. orders)(800) 327-8912 (except FA) Unique Products Co. (800) 228-2049 (except Nebraska) Ski Resorts =-=-=-=-=-= HN Concord (800) 431-2217 (only New England States) Mt. Snow (800) 451-4211 (Eas orrn Seabord) Ski Us at Franconia (800) 258-0366 (Eastern Seabord) Stevensville (800) 431-2211 (New England States) Mannequins =-=-=-=-=- Dann-Dee (800) 621-3904 (except IL) Car Rentals =-=-=-=-=-= A-Aaron, Inc. (800) 327-7513 (except FA) Airlines Rent-A/Car (800) 228-9650 (FA only) Dollar-A-Day (800) 421-6868 (except FA) Hertz (800) 261-1311 (Canada only) Sears Rent-A-Car (800) 228-2800 (except Nebraska) Thrifty Rent-A-Car (800) 331-4200 (except Oklahoma) Newspapers =-=-=-=-=- Globe Gazette (800) 392-6622 (IA only) Oil Daily (800) 223-6635 (except NY) Christian Science Motor (800) 225-7090 (except MS) Wall Street Journal (800) 257-0300 (except NJ) The National Observer (800) 325-5990 (except MO) FBI raids major Ohio computer bulletin board; action follows joint investigation with SPA. The Federation Bureau of Investigation on Saturday, Jan. 30, 1993, raided "Rusty & Edie's," a computer bulletin board located in Boardman, Ohio, which has allegedly been illegally distributing copyrighted software programs. Seized in the raid on the Rusty & Edie's bulletin board were computers, hard disk drives and telecommunications equipment, as well as financial and subscriber records. For the past several months, the Software Publishers Association ("SPA") has been working with the FBI in investigating the Rusty & Edie's bulletin board, and as part of that investigation has downloaded numerous copyrighted business and entertainment programs from the board. The SPA investigation was initiated following the receipt of complaints from a number of SPA members that their software was being illegally distributed on the Rusty & Edie's BBS. The Rusty & Edie's bulletin board was one of the largest private bulletin boards in the country. It had 124 nodes available to callers and over 14,000 subscribers throughout the United States and several foreign countries. To date, the board has logged in excess of 3.4 million phone calls, with new calls coming in at the rate of over 4,000 per day. It was established in 1987 and had expanded to include over 19 gigabytes of storage housing over 100,000 files available to subscribers for downloading. It had paid subscribers throughout the United States and several foreign countries, including Canada, Luxembourg, France, Germany, Finland, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden and the United Kingdom. A computer bulletin board allows personal computer users to access a host computer by a modem-equipped telephone to exchange information, including messages, files, and computer programs. The systems operator is generally responsible for the operation of the bulletin board and determines who is allowed to access the bulletin board and under what conditions. For a fee of $89.00 per year, subscribers to the Rusty & Edie's bulletin board were given access to the board's contents including many popular copyrighted business and entertainment packages. Subscribers could "download" or receive these files for use on their own computers without having to pay the copyrighted owner anything for them. "The SPA applauds the FBI's action today," said Ilene Rosenthal, general counsel for the SPA. "This shows that the FBI recognizes the harm that theft of intellectual property causes to one of the USs most vibrant industries. It clearly demonstrates a trend that the government understands the seriousness of software piracy." The SPA is actively working with the FBI in the investigation of computer bulletin boards, and similar raids on other boards are expected shortly. Whether it's copied from a program purchased at a neighborhood computer store or downloaded from a bulletin board thousands of miles away, pirated software adds to the cost of computing. According to the SPA, in 1991, the software industry lost $1.2 billion in the US alone. Losses internationally are several billion dollars more. "Many people may not realize that software pirates cause prices to be higher, in part, to make up for publisher losses from piracy," says Ken Wasch, executive director of the SPA. In addition, they ruin the reputation of the hundreds of legitimate bulletin boards that serve an important function for computer users." The Software Publishers Association is the principal trade association of the personal computer software industry. It's over 1,000 members represent the leading publishers in the business, consumer and education software markets. The SPA has offices in Washington DC, and Paris, France. CONTACT: Software Publishers Association, Washington Ilene Rosenthal.. 202/452-1600 Ext. 318 Terri Childs..... 202/452-1600 Ext. 320 181.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 2 by Exodus This volume defines a few varieties of misc. explosives, charges, and whatever I had in mind at that time. Anyway, these formulas are not as precise in measurements for they were given in brief summary. However, they will work, and if used correctly can be safe and "fun". FRENCH AMMONAL [Low Explosive]: Ingredients: 86% Ammonium Nitrate 6% Stearic Acid 8% Aluminum Powder Description: French ammonal is an easily improvised low explosive mixture. It is generally less effective than an equal weight of TNT. The material is loaded by pressing it into a suitable container. Initiation by an Engineer's special blasting cap is recommended. Comments: This material was tested. It is effective. References: TM 31-201-1, Unconventional Warfare Devices and Techniques, para 1401. TETRYTOL [High Explosive]: Ingredients: 75% Tetrytol 25% TNT Description: Tetrytol is a high explosive bursting charge. It is used as a demolition explosive, a bursting charge for mines, and in artillery shells. The explosive force of tetrytol is approximately the same as that of TNT. It may be initiated by a blasting cap. Tetrytol is usually loaded by casting. Comments: This material was tested. It is effective. References: TM 9-1900; Ammunition, General, page 55. Military Explosives, page 188. IMPROVISED PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER [High Explosive]: Ingredients: Finely Powdered Potassium Chlorate Cdata bstals Petroleum Jelly **MIX THOUROUGHLY** Description: This plastic explosive filler can be detonated with a No. 8 commercial blasting cap or with any military blasting cap. The explosive must be stored in a waterproof container until ready to use. Comments: This material was tested. It is effective. References: TM 31-210, Improvised Munitions, sec I, No. 1. FLAMMABILITY OF GASES [Gas Explosive]: Ingredients: Explosive Gas Description: Under some conditions, common gases act as fuel. When mixed with air, they will burn rapidly or even explode. For some fuel-air mixtures, the range over which the explosion can occur is quite wide while for others the limits are narrow. The upper and lower amounts of common fuels that will cause an ignitable mixture are shown in the table below. The quantity shown is the percentage by volume of air. If the fuel-air mixture is too lean or too rich, it will not ignite. The amounts shown are therefore called limits of inflammability. Gases (% by volume of air) Fuel (Gas) Lower Limit Upper Limit Water Gas Or Blue Gas 7.0 72 Natural Gas 4.7 15 Hydrogen 4.0 75 Acetylene 2 81 Propane 2.2 10 Butane 1.9 9 Comments: These fuels have been tested under laboratory conditions. They are effective. Ignition depends on method of initiation, uniformity of mixture, and physical conditions. References: Bulletin 29, Limits of Inflammability of Gases and Vapors H.F. Coward and G.W. Jones, Bureau of Mines, US Government Printing Office, 1939. 182.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 3 by Exodus This is the MOST important or one of the most important volumes regarding the various mixtures of anarchy that I will be "publishing" to the "public". Also, it may as well be the MOST DANGEROUS to prepare, the substance we will be dealing with is Trinitrotoluene, or short - TNT. This high explosive is a VERY DANGEROUS, slightly unstable substance. The crystallized crude TNT is about the color of brown sugar and feels greasy to the touch. It is suitable for many uses as a high-explosive, but not for the use in high-explosive shells. It is also highly reactive to many other chemical substances. It can be incorporated into dynamite and many other explosives that will be explained in further detail later, in other volumes of ANARCHY. WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FINISH THIS PROJECT UNLESS YOU ARE FULLY CAPABLE SAFELY EXECUTING THE PROCESSES IN A SAFE ENVIRONMENT! IF YOU CHOOSE TO CONTINUE, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY THROUGH BEFORE BEGINNING AND HAVE ALL MATERIALS AND TOOLS (INCLUDING SAFETY/EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT) READY FOR USE WHEN OR IF THEY ARE NEEDED. THIS IS NOT A JOKE! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!! Preparation of Trinitrotoluene (Three Stages). A mixture of 294 grams of concentrated sulfuric acid (density 1.84) and 147 grams of nitric acid (density 1.42) is added slowly from a dropping funnel to 100 grams of toluene in a tall 600-cc. beaker, while the liquid is stirred vigorously with an electric stirrer and it's temperature is maintained at 30C to 40C by running cold water in the vessel in which the beaker is standing. The addition of acid will require from an hour to an hour and a half. The stirring is then continued for half an hour longer without cooling; the mixture is allowed to stand over night in a separatory funnel; the lower layer of spent acid is drawn off; and the crude mononitrotoluene is weighed. One-half of it, corresponding to 50 grams of toluene, is taken for the dinitration. The mononitrotoluene (MNT) is dissolved in 109 grams of concentrated sulfuric acid (d. 1.84) while the mixture is cooled in running water. The solution in a tall beaker is warmed to 50 and a mixed acid, composed of 54 grams each of nitric acid (d. 10) and sulfuric acid (d. 1.84), is added slowly drop by drop from a dropping funnel while the mixture is stirred mechanically. The heat generated by the reaction raises the temperature, and the rate of addition of the acid is regulated so that the temperature of the mixture lies always between 90 and 100. The addition of the acid will require about 1 hour. After the acid has been added, the mixture is stirred for 2 hours longer at 90-100 to complete the nitration. Two layers separate on standing. The upper layer consists largely of dinitrotoluene (DNT), but probably contains a certain amount of TNT. The trinitration in the laboratory is conveniently carried out without separating the DNT from the spent acid. While the dinitration mixture is stirred actively at a temperature of about 90, 145 grams of fuming sulfuric acid (petroleum containing 15% free SO3) is added slowly by pouring from a beaker. A mixed acid, composed of 72 grams each of nitric acid (d. 10) and the 15% petroleum, is now added drop by drop with good agitation while the heat of the reaction maintains the temperature at 100-115. After about three-quarters of the acid has been added, it will be found necessary to apply external heat to maintain the temperature. After all the acid has been added (taking 1 to 2 hours), the heating and stirring are continued for 2 hours longer at 100-115. After the material has stood overnight, the upper TNT layer will be found to have solidified to a hard cake, and the lower layer of spent acid to be filled with cdata bstals. The acid is filtered through a Buchner funnel (without filter paper), and the cake is broken up and washed with water on the same filter to remove excess of acid. The spent acid contains considerable amounts of TNT in solution; this is precipitated by pouring the acid into a large volume of water, filtered off, rinsed with water, and added to the main batch. All the of the product is washed three or four times by agitating it vigorously with hot water under which it is melted. After the last washing, the TNT is granulated by allowing it to cool slowly under hot water while the stirring is continued. The product, filtered off and dried at ordinary room temperature, is equal to a good commercial sample of crude TNT. It may be purified by dissolving in warm alcohol at 60 and allowing to cool slowly, or it may be purified by digesting with 5 times its weight of 5% sodium hydrogen sulfite solution at 90 for half an hour with vigorous stirring, washing with hot water until the washings are colorless, and finally granulating as before. The product of this last treatment is equal to a good commercial sample of purified TNT. Pure ALPHA-TNT, melting point 80.8, may be procured by recrystallizing this material once from nitric acid (d. 1.42) and once from alcohol. Well, that's it... AND REMEMBER MY WARNING! 183.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 4 by Exodus In this particular volume, we will be discussing types of Dynamite, these high-explosives being one of the more important or destructive of the anarchist's formulas. Note that some of these mixtures are very unstable or shock ignited, and that care should be observed when handling these unstable mixtures. Some of these formulae deal with Trinitrotoluene (TNT) and the preparation for that is given under the volume 3, within this series. WARNING: THESE ARE REAL EXPLOSIVES AND MAY CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH UPON MISUSE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PREPARE ANY AS SAMPLE IF YOU ARE NOT FULLY CAPABLE OF UNDERSTANDING THE DANGERS AND PRECAUTIONS OF THESE PRODUCTS. THESE FORMULAE ARE THE TRUE FORMULAE TO CREATE THESE MIXTURES AND ARE THEREFORE VERY DANGEROUS. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Guhr Dynamite: Ingredients 1 part Kieselguhr 3 parts Nitroglycerin Description This dynamite is primarily used in blasting. It is fairly stable, in the drop test, it exploded by the fall of a 1 kg weight through 12 to 15 cm., or by the fall of a 2 kg weight through 7 cm. The frozen material is less sensitive: a drop of more than 20 cm. with a 1 kg weight is needed to explode it, and the 2 kg weight is necessary to explode it. Frozen or unfrozen, it can be detonated by shooting at it with a military rifle, when held in a paper cartridge. Generally, it is detonated with a steel-on-steel blow. Velocity of detonation vary from 6650 to 6800 meters per second at a density loading of 10. Extra-Dynamite: FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 71% Nitroglycerin 62% Ammonium Nitrate 23% Ammonium Nitrate 25% Nitroglycerin 4% Collodion 12% Charcoal 2% Charcoal 1% Collodion Description: This material is crumbly and plastic between the fingers. This material can be detonated with any detonating cap. Table Of Dynamite Formulae: INGREDIENT STRENGTH 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% 50% 55% 60% Nitroglycerin 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% 50% 55% 60% Combustible Material 20% 19% 18% 17% 16% 15% 14% 14% 15% 16% Sodium Nitrate 64% 60% 56% 52% 48% 44% 40% 35% 29% 23% Calcium or Magnesium Carbonate 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% Table Of More Dynamite Formulae: INGREDIENT STRENGTH ORDINARY LOW FREEZING 30% 35% 40% 50% 60% 30% 35% 40% 50% 60% Nitroglycerin 15% 20% 22% 27% 35% 13% 17% 17% 21% 27% Nitrosubstitution Compounds 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 3% 4% 4% 5% 6% Ammonium Nitrate 15% 15% 20% 25% 30% 15% 15% 20% 25% 30% Sodium Nitrate 51% 48% 42% 36% 24% 53% 49% 45% 36% 27% Combustible Material 18% 16% 15% 11% 10% 15% 14% 13% 12% 9% Calcium Carbonate or Zinc Oxide 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% Master Table Of Dynamites: INGREDIENT FORMULA 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Ammonium Nitrate 52 53 60 61 66 73 78 83 0 0 0 0 Potassium Nitrate 21 0 0 0 0 2.8 5 7 30 34 0 0 Sodium Nitrate 0 12 5 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 30 24 Barium Nitrate 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 4 1 0 0 Na or K Chloride 0 0 21 20 22 15 8 0 0 0 0 0 Hyd Ammonium Oxalate 16 19 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Ammonium Chloride 6 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Cereal or Wood Meal 0 4 4 7 2 1 5 2 0 38 39 40 Glycerin 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Spent Tan Bark Meal 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 40 1 0 0 Potassium Dichromate 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 5 5 Sodium Carbonate 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Powdered Coal 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Nitrotoluene 0 0 6 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Dinitrotoluene 0 0 0 0 0 5 0 0 0 0 0 0 Trinitrotoluene 0 6 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 Nitroglycerin 5 5 4 4 4 3.2 4 4 25 25 25 30 All measurements in percents Well, that's it for now... have fun.... hehehehehe! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!! 184.ANARCHY 'N' EXPLOSIVES - VOLUME 5 by Exodus Well, hasn't it been long since Volume 4 of Anarchy 'n' Explosives? Well, I finally got around to typing up another volume. This one will be dedicated to the extremely simple and more accessible explosives and incendiaries to be prepared at home, or laboratory; depending upon the environment you have access to or are accustomed to. For further information and/or comments on this series of ever popular explosives, contact me (I don't sign these "publications") on the Knavery BBS at xxx-xxx-xxxx on the public message base, I should be reading some requests if you leave them. And, volume number 6 should be coming out sooner than the time between 4 and 5, but don't count on it. BULK POWDERS: Bulk powders are types of gunpowder consisting of nitrocellulose and a mixture of other chemically explosive solutions. These nitrocellulose fibers are stuck together, but are not completely collided. Some contain little else but nitrocellulose; others contain, in addition to potassium and barium nitrates, camphor, vaseline, paraffin, lampblack, starch, dextrin, potassium dichromate or other oxidizing or deterrent salts, and diphenylamine for stabilization, and are colored in a variety of brilliant hues by means of coltar dyes. Three typical bulk powders are made up according to the approximate formulas tabulated below: Nitrocellulose 84.0 87.0 89.0 % N in nitrocellulose 13.2 12.9 12.9 Potassium nitrate 7 6.0 6.0 Barium nitrate 7 2.0 3.0 Starch 0.0 0.0 1.0 Paraffin oil 0.0 4.0 0.0 Diphenylamine 1.0 1.0 1.0 The mixture is mixed in warm water and dried thoroughly. Then either granulated or made into powder by crushing with a wooden block and screened through a 12-mesh sieve. The material is then stored in a moisture-resistant container for future or immediate use. MERCURY FULMINATE: Mercury fulminate is an initiating explosive, commonly appearing as white or gray crystals. It is extremely sensitive to initiation by heat, friction, spark or flame, and impact. It detonates when initiated by any of these means. It is pressed into containers, usually at 3000 psi, for use in detonators and blasting caps. However, when compressed at greater and greater pressure (up to 30,000 psi), it becomes "dead pressed." In this condition, it can only be detonated by another initial detonating agent. Mercury fulminate gradually becomes inert when stored continuously above 100F. A dark colored product of deterioration gives evidence of this effect. Mercury exfulminate is stored underwater except when there is danger of freezing. Then it is stored under a mixture of water and alcohol. Preparation of Mercury Fulminate. Five grams of mercury is added Ext 55 cc. of nitric acid (specific gravity 1.42) in a 100-cc. Erlenmeyer flask, and the mixture is allowed to stand without shaking until the mercury has gone into solution. The acid liquid is then poured into 50 cc. of 90% alcohol in a 500-cc. beaker in the hood. The temperature of the mixture rises, a vigorous reaction commences, white fumes come off, and cdata bstals of fulminate soon begin to precipitate. Red fumes appear and the precipitation of the fulminate becomes more rapid, then white fumes again as the reaction moderates. After about 20 minutes, the reaction is over; water is added, and the cdata bstals are washed with water repeatedly by decantation until the washings are no longer acid to litmus. The product consists of grayish-yellow cdata bstals, and corresponds to a good grade of commercial fulminate. It may be obtained white and entirely pure by dissolving in strong ammonia water, filtering, and reprecipitating by the addition of 30% acetic acid. The pure fulminate is filtered off, washed several times with cold water, and stored under water, or, if a very small amount is desired for experimental purposes, it is dried in a desiccator. AMATOL: Description: amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly higher than that of TNT alone. Common compositions vary from 80% ammonium nitrate and 20% TNT to 40% ammonium nitrate and 60% TNT. Amatol is used as the main bursting charge in artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form dangerous compounds with copper and brass. Therefore, it should not be housed in containers of such metals. BLACK POWDERS: Black powders burn either quickly or very slowly depending on the composition of such a mixture; however, these powders produce smoke, often great amounts, and is most useful in applications where smoke is no object. It is the best for communicating fire and for producing a quick, hot flame. Black powder is used in both propellant charges for shrapnel shells, in saluting and blank fire charges, as the bursting charge of practice shells and bombs, as a propelling charge in certain pyrotechnic pieces, and, either with or without the admixture of other substances which modify the rate of burning, in the time-train rings and in other parts of fuses. Below is a list of black powders and their compositions. Name Saltpeter (Brown) Charcoal Sulfur England 79 (18) 3 England 77.4 (17.6) 5 Germany 78 (19) 3 Germany 80 (20) 0 France 78 (19) 3 Forte 72 15 13 Lente 40 30 30 Ordinaire 62 18 20 185.Explosives and Propellants by Exodus Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or more pharmacies. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the caliber of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. BLACK POWDER Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width (caliber) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed below: GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN F 0 or Greater Model Cannon; some Rifles FF .36 - 0 Large Pistols; Small Rifles FFF .36 or Smaller Pistols; Derringers The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black powder, per pound, is about $80 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a one would use a plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependent on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impractical to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Any adult can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms in the United States. PYRODEX Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried. ROCKET ENGINE POWDER One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the gray fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain in the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A-2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder. RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practical standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Smokeless gunpowder is made by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some other cellulose material. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with smokeless gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large and small grained smokeless powder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for smokeless powder. Powder costs about $9.00 per pound. In most states any citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are currently few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the US There are now ID checks in many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet. Mail-orders aren't subject to such checks. Rifle powder and pyrodex may be purchased by mail order, but UPS charges will be high, due to DOT regulations on packaging. 186.Lockpicking III by Exodus If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks. These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing the latch back into the door. Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be slipped. (Ill. 2.11) ___ | } < Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger second |___} < finger Some methods for getting through locked doors are: 1.Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings, and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards. 2.Use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but then why bother to slip the lock at all? 3.Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far enough to slip. 4.If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so that it lets both fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make it much easier to pick. 5.If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door opens outward), remove the hinge pins, provided they aren't stopped with welded tabs. Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its effectiveness. 6.If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly, break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to make the first finger retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g., Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially, yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to attract the attention of the users or owners or locksmith or police exc. 7.Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared critical resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a micrometer works best: keys made from mic measurements are more likely to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed. 8.Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up, additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it generally takes a *lot* of patience. 9.Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take breaks. Make the most of your opportunities. 10.No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups at 3AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually *like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any theft or break-ins reported there the next day... 11.Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those places you're *really* curious about. 12.Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.) SLIPPING A LOCK The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student Ids, etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't leave home without one. (Ill. #1) The sheet should then be folded to produce an L, J, or U shaped device that looks like this: ________________________________________ /________________________________________| | | | | L-shaped | | | | |_| (Ill. #2) _____________________________ / ___________________________| | | | | J-shaped | | | |________ \________| (Ill. #3) _____________________ / ___________________| | | | | | | U-shaped | | | |____________________ \____________________| We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys. At most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.] We should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey. 187.Chemical Equivalent List II by Exodus Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. Chemical Used In Available at Alcohol, Ethyl Alcoholic Beverages Liquor Stores Solvents: 95% min for both Hardware Stores Ammonia CLEAR Household Ammonia Supermarkets or 7-Eleven Ammonium Nirate Instant-Cold Paks Drug Stores Fertilizers Medical Supply Stores Nitrous Oxide Pressurizing Whip Cream Party Supply Stores Poppers (like CO ctgs.) Head Shops Magnesium Firestarters Surplus or Camping Stores Lecithin Vitamins Pharmacies or Drug Stores Mineral Oil Cooking, Laxative Supermarket or Drug Stores Mercury Mercury Thermometers Supermarkets Hardware Stores Sulfuric Acid Uncharged Car Batteries Automotive Stores Glycerine Pharmacies or Drug Stores Sulfur Gardening Garden or Hardware Store Charcoal Charcoal Grills Supermarkets Gardening Stores Sodium Nitrate Fertilizer Gardening Stores Cellulose (Cotton) First Aid Drug Stores Medical Supply Stores Strontium Nitrate Road Flares Surplus or Auto Stores Fuel Oil Kerosene Stoves Surplus or Camping Stores Bottled Gas Propane Stoves Surplus Camping Stores Potassium Permanganate Water Purification Purification Plants Hexamine or Methenamine Hexamine Stoves Surplus or Camping Stores Nitric Acid * Cleaning Printing Printing Shops Plates Photography Stores Iodine + Disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO Sodium Perchlorate Solidox Pellets Hardware Stores Cutting Torches (IMPURE) * Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. + The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystalline form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to. 188.Nitroglycerin II by Exodus Nitroglycerin is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerin would use the following procedure: MATERIAL: Distilled Water Table Salt Sodium Bicarbonate Concentrated Nitric Acid (13 mL) Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (39 mL) Glycerin EQUIPMENT: Eye-Dropper 100 mL Beaker 200-300 mL Beakers (2) Ice Bath Container (A plastic bucket serves well) Centigrade Thermometer Blue Litmus Paper 1.Place 150 mL of distilled water into one of the 200-300 mL beakers. 2.In the other 200-300 mL beaker, place 150 mL of distilled water and about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some remains undissolved. 3.Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall temperature. 4.Place the 100 mL beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 mL of concentrated nitric acid into the 100 mL beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20C or less. 5.When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the 39 mL of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10C. It is a good idea to start another ice bath to do this. 6.With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerin into the mixed acids, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed acids and glycerin meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 CENTIGRADE IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, WATCH OUT !! 7.The glycerin will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerin until there is a thin layer of glycerin on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in small quantities. 8.Stir the mixed acids and glycerin for the first ten minutes of nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in the 100 mL beaker well below 30C. Usually, the nitroglycerin will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. 9.When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerin is well below 30C, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerin and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerin should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid- water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin. 10.Carefully remove the nitroglycerin with a clean eye-dropper, and place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerin more stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerin with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. 11.When the nitroglycerin is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerin is far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerin can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place. 189.Cellulose Nitrate by Exodus I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I didn't have petroleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated, cheap and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3 and a little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so little water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool or cotton cloth. Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disastrous with nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerin. For some reason, I tried washing the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled water. I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?) When that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. By the way, water quenched the runaway reaction of cellulose. The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether. WARNINGS All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in the process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply. Not for the novice. Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage if it isn't stabilized. The decomposition is autocatalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if the material is kept confined over time. The process is much faster if the material is not washed well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture the small amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They therefore inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case. Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it. Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by: 1.Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is recycled. 2.Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water. 3.Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water. If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution, then rinsed in fresh water. The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced. There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed. (Ill. 3.22.2) CH OH CH ONO | 2 | 2 2 | | C-----O HNO C-----O /H \ 3 /H \ -CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O- \H H/ H SO \H H/ C-----C 2 4 C-----C | | | | OH OH ONO ONO 2 2 CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE 190.Starter Explosives by Exodus There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxidizer mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working fuel- oxidizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and oxidizer: Oxidizer % by weight Fuel % by weight Speed Notes Potassium Chlorate 67% Sulfur 33% 5 Friction or Impact Sensitive & Unstable Potassium Chlorate 50% Sugar 35% 5 Fairly Slow Burning Charcoal 15% Unstable Potassium Chlorate 50% Sulfur 25% 8 Extremely Unstable! Magnesium or 25% Aluminum Dust 25% Potassium Chlorate 67% Magnesium 33% 8 Unstable Aluminum Dust 33% Sodium Nitrate 65% Magnesium Dust 30% ? Unpredictable Sulfur 5% Potassium Permanganate 60% Glycerin 40% 4 Delay Before Ignition depends upon Grain Size Potassium Permanganate 67% Sulfur 33% 5 Unstable Potassium Permanganate 60% Sulfur 20% 5 Unstable Magnesium or 20% Aluminum Dust 20% Potassium Permanganate 50% Sugar 50% 3 ? Potassium Nitrate 75% Charcoal 15% 7 This is Black Powder! Sulfur 10% Potassium Nitrate 60% Powdered Iron or 40% 1 Burns Very Hot Magnesium 40% Potassium Chlorate 75% Phosphorus Sesquisulfide 25% 8 Used to make strike-anywhere matches Ammonium Perchlorate 70% Aluminum Dust 30% 6 Solid Fuel for Space Shuttle Small amount of Iron Oxide Potassium Perchlorate 67% Magnesium or 33% 10 Flash Powder (Sodium Perchlorate) Aluminum Dust 33% Potassium Perchlorate 60% Magnesium or 20% 8 Alternate (Sodium Perchlorate) Aluminum Dust 20% Flash Powder Sulfur 20% Barium Nitrate 30% Aluminum Dust 30% 9 Alternate Potassium Perchlorate 30% Flash Powder Barium Peroxide 90% Magnesium Dust 5% 10 Alternate Aluminum Dust 5% Flash Powder Potassium Perchlorate 50% Sulfur 25% 8 Slightly Unstable Magnesium or 25% Aluminum Dust 25% Potassium Chlorate 67% Red Phosphorus 27% 7 Very Unstable Impact Sensitive Calcium Carbonate 3% Sulfur 3% Potassium Permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 Unstable Aluminum or 25% Ignites if it gets wet! Magnesium Dust 25% Potassium Chlorate 75% Charcoal Dust 15% 6 Unstable Sulfur 10% WARNING: POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERIN!!! NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxidizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of burning. As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxidizer mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxidizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the mixture. 191.Flash Powder By Dr. Tiel Here are a few basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to produce your own flash powder: 1.Grind the oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc.) separately in a clean vessel. 2.NEVER grind or sift the mixed composition. 3.Mix the composition on a large paper sheet, by rolling the composition back and forth. 4.Do not store flash compositions, especially any containing Mg. 5.Make very small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the power of such mixtures. KNO3 50% (by weight) Mg 50% It is very important to have the KNO3 very dry, if evolution of ammonia is observed then the KNO3 has water in it. Very pure and dry KNO3 is needed. KClO3 with Mg or Al metal powders works very well. Many hands, faces and lives have been lost with such compositions. KMnO4 with Mg or Al is also an extremely powerful flash composition. KClO4 with Al is generally found in commercial fireworks, this does not mean that it is safe, it is a little safer than KClO3 above. KCrO7 can also be used as an oxidizer for flash powder. The finer the oxidizer and the finer the metal powder the more powerful the explosive. This of course will also increase the sensitivity of the flash powder. For a quick flash small quantities can be burnt in the open. Larger quantities (50g or more) ignited in the open can detonate, they do not need a container to do so. NOTE: Flash powder in any container will detonate. Balanced equations of some oxidizer/metal reactions. Only major products are considered. Excess metal powders are generally used. This excess burns with atmospheric oxygen. 4 KNO3 + 10 Mg --> 2 KO + 2 N + 10 MgO + Energy KClO3 + 2 Al --> KCl + AlO3 + Energy 3 KClO4 + 8 Al --> 3 KCl + 4 AlO3 + Energy 6 KMnO4 + 14 Al --> 3 KO + 7 AlO3 + 6 Mn + Energy Make Black Powder first if you have never worked with pyrotechnic materials, then think about this stuff. Dr. Van Tiel - Ph.D. Chemistry Potassium perchlorate is a lot safer than sodium/potassium chlorate. 192.The Explosive Pen by Blue Max Here's a GREAT little trick to play on your best fiend (no that's not a typo) at school, or maybe as a practical joke on a friend! Materials Needed: 1.One Ball Point "Click" pen 2.Gun Powder 3.8 or 10 match heads 4.1 Match stick 5.a sheet of sand paper (1 " X 2") Directions: 1.Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top. 2.Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little parts and the ink fill was. 3.Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker. 4.Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on the inside on the sand paper. 5.Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where the ball point comes out. 6.Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is to keep the powder from spilling. The Finished pen should look like this: Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \ | | \ | | \ _________________|____________________|________ <_______________________________|_______________|=== 193.Revised Pipe Bombs by Exodus First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted. Next, the bomb-builder would partially fill the casing with a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below: (Ill. #1) Ŀ ٳ o Ŀ Fig. 1 - Pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled. [Top view] (Ill. #2) Ŀ o Ŀ Fig. 2 - Pipe with one end flattened and folded up. [Top view] (Ill. #3) Fuse Hole oĿ Ŀ Ŀ Fig. 3 - Pipe with flattened and folded end. [Side view] 194.SAFETY TIPS -- HOW NOT TO GET KILLED by Exodus An "own goal" is the death of a person on your side from one of your own devices. It is obvious that these should be avoided at all costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to err on the side of caution. BASIC SAFETY RULES 1.DON'T SMOKE! (Don't laugh - an errant cigarette wiped out the Weathermen) 2.GRIND ALL INGREDIENTS SEPARATELY. It's surprising how friction sensitive some supposedly "safe" explosives really are. 3.ALLOW for a 20% margin of error - Just because the AVERAGE burning rate of a fuse is 30 secs/foot, don't depend on the 5 inches sticking out of your pipe bomb to take exactly 2 minutes. 4.OVERESTIMATE THE RANGE OF YOUR SHRAPNEL. The cap from a pipe bomb can often travel a block or more at high velocities before coming to rest - If you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can kill you. 5.When mixing sensitive compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of static electricity. Mix the ingredients by the method below: HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as the small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do: Ingredients: 1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does not use staples) The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound. 1.Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet. 2.Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders to roll towards the middle of the sheet. 3.By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth in the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill from either of the loose ends. 4.Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If it must be stored use airtight containers (35mm film canisters work nicely) and store away from people, houses, and valuable items. 195.Ammonium TriIodide Crystals by Exodus Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown, crushed, or heated. Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner: Materials: Iodine crystals Clear ammonia (ammonium hydroxide, for the suicidal) Equipment: Funnel and filter paper Paper towels Two throw-away glass jars 1.Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. 2.Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. 3.Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone into the funnel. 4.After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. 5.While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. 6.Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into eight pieces of about the same size. 7.After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or crushed. 196.Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III by Exodus Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil. AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the remaining water. 197.Black Powder III by Exodus First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major problem... it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: MATERIALS: Potassium Nitrate (75 g) -or- Sodium Nitrate (75 g) Sulfur (10 g) Charcoal (15 g) Distilled Water EQUIPMENT: Clay grinding bowl and clay grinder -or- wooden salad bowl and wooden spoon Plastic Bags (3) 300-500 mL Beaker (1) Coffee Pot or Heat Source 1.Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. 2.Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic bag. 3.Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. 4.Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. 5.On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water. 6.Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity. 198.NitroCellulose by Exodus Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure: MATERIALS: Cotton (Cellulose) Concentrated Nitric Acid Concentrated Sulfuric Acid Distilled Water EQUIPMENT: Two (2) 200-300 mL Beakers Funnel and Filter Paper Blue Litmus Paper 1.Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid. 2.Immediately add 0 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes. 3.Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to wash it in. 4.Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. 5.After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and stored. 199.RDX II by Exodus RDX, also called Cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of the power of TNT, and is much easier to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too severe shock. It is less sensitive than Mercury Fulminate or Nitroglycerin, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. NO 2 | N / \ RDX MOLECULE / \ H C H C / 2 2 / | O N N--NO 2 \ / 2 \ / \ / CH 2 RDX can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of Ammonium Nitrate. MATERIALS: Hexamine -or- Methenamine Fuel Tablets (50 g) Concentrated Nitric Acid (550 mL) Ammonium Nitrate Distilled Water Table Salt Ice EQUIPMENT: 500 mL Beaker Glass Stirring Rod Funnel and Filter Paper Ice Bath Container (Plastic Bucket) Centigrade Thermometer Blue Litmus Paper 1.Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 mL of concentrated Nitric Acid into the beaker. 2.When the acid has cooled to below 20C, add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30C, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture. 3.Drop the temperature below 0C, either by adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Ammonium Nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below 0C for at least twenty minutes. 4.Pour the mixture into a liter of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid. 5.Place the crystals into one half a liter of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and safe. 6.Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. RDX is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. 7.Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% RDX (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic bag. This is one way to desensitize the explosive. 8.HMX is a mixture of TNT and RDX; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. It is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight RDX. 9.By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of RDX after step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the RDX and increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Sodium or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the RDX. 10.RDX detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 15 g/cubic cm. 200.Black Gate BBS by Exodus ᣒ?K G? _ 1 ? 3.90_ ?_? _ ?H_ 1* (20!)-YOU-SUCK EliTe MaIL 2* (20!)-REAL-BAD -=( NO LEECHES )=- FL, PA, NY, CA 2 RinGdoWN 9600's CoNNexioNs 1 LocAl 57000 !@ -0+ DaY WarEZ ۏ__h Sysop - Exodus 201.ANFOS by Dean S. ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large shockwave to set it off. About ANFO Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful commercial explosive, with its primary benefit being the fact that it is cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. To keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk truck, which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (that's pellets to most of the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a dye of some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer. ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO. Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives, dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive. The need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water susceptible. It dissolves in it, or absorbs it from the atmosphere, and becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no good, and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low. Generally, the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more effective. ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it is places, raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds to the cost, and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some commercial, cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises power considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliably cap sensitive. Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2 kilos of ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends a AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More oil makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and excess fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazards as the mixture is oxygen poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as the porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with various materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from being absorbed. Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement, either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus, a pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite well. So will big piles. That's how the explosive potential was discovered: a small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big bang. A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel oil with a wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a cohesive mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture. This is what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The military literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it is important to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more powerful than commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability, and thus a strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They also tend to go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but hey, who doesn't... Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", $20 manual mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This is a $60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. Incidentally, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need a license to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old folks homes, okay. 202.Picric Acid by Exodus Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or TNP, is a military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as TNT. It's another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid. MATERIALS: Phenol (9 g) Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (12 mL) Concentrated Nitric Acid (38 mL) Distilled Water EQUIPMENT: 500 mL Flask Adjustable Heat Source 1000 mL Beaker -or- other container suitable for boiling in Filter Paper and Funnel Glass Stirring Rod 1.Place 9 grams of phenol into the 500 mL flask, and carefully add 12 mL of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. 2.Put 400 mL of tap water into the 1000 mL beaker or boiling container and bring the water to a gentle boil. 3.After warming the 500 mL flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes. 4.Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in steps 3-4. Place the 500 mL flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 mL of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath. 5.Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1 to 2 hours. 6.Add 100 mL of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice bath until it is cold. 7.Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive. 8.Wash out the 500 mL flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 mL of water, and shake vigorously. 9.Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. 10.Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode spontaneously. 203.CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE by Exodus The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. MATERIALS: Potassium Chlorate (2 teaspoons) Sugar (2 teaspoons) Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (4 oz.) Gasoline (8 oz.) EQUIPMENT: 12 oz. glass bottle Cap for bottle, with plastic inside Cooking Pan with raised edges Paper Towels Glass or Plastic Cup and Spoon 1.Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. 2.Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. 3.Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry. 4.Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. 5.Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to dry. 6.When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. 7.When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface. 8.NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. 9.To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame. BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely. During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. A second charge is used to detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation. Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed in a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding rooms, rendering it structurally unsound. 204.Dry Ice by Exodus There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is as follows: Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4 Lb of Dry Ice (crushed works best) and (optional) a quantity of water. Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount and temperature of the bottle the bomb will go off in 30 seconds - 5 minutes. Without any water added, the 2-liter bottles will go often in 3-7 minutes if dropped into a warm river, and in 45 minutes to 1 hours in open air. The explosion sounds equivalent to an M-100. _Plastic_ 16 oz. soda bottles and 1 liter bottles work almost as well as do the 2-liters, however glass bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce dangerous shrapnel. Remember, these are LOUD! A classmate of mine set up 10 bottles in a nearby park without adding water. After the first two went off (there was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and spent the next hour trying to find the guy who they thought was setting off M-100's all around them... USES FOR DRY ICE Time Bombs: 1.Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic cans that hold the coasters used for large-format Polaroid film). A film canister would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair amount of effort to open). Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite sealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your back. Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then leave. Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear a loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrgghhh!" within a minute, when the CO pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid. In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will probably never figure out what made the noise. 2.Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in as many chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on the cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell. After about a minute (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will result, spraying water everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter bottle. More things to do with Dry Ice: Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you chuck it into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really impressive if the water is warm enough "Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..." "You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you KEEP IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire." Editor's Note: Dry ice can be a lot of fun, but be forewarned: Using anything but plastic to contain dry ice bombs is suicidal. Dry ice is more dangerous than TNT, because it's extremely unpredictable. Even a 2-liter bottle can produce some nasty shrapnel: One source tells me that he caused an explosion with a 2-liter bottle that destroyed a metal garbage can. In addition, it is rumored that several kids have been killed by shards of glass resulting from the use of a glass bottle. For some reason, dry ice bombs have become very popular in the state of Utah. As a result, dry ice bombs have been classified as infernal devices, and possession is a criminal offense. 205.Fuses / Ignitors / Delays by Exodus There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would be easier to hide. FUSE IGNITION The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2 seconds to the inch. It is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length. Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impractical. If a grenade ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. One such method is described below: MATERIALS: Strike-on-Cover type Matches Electrical Tape -or- Duct Tape Waterproof Fuse 1.To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below: Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of combustion is 20 seconds. 20 seconds / 8 inches = 2 seconds per inch. If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired time by the number of seconds per inch: 10 seconds / 2 seconds per inch = 4 inches NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! 2.After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is to go off, add about an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off. 3.Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter. 4.Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move. 5.Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. _____________________ \ / \ / ------ match book cover \ / | M|f|M ---|------- match head | A|u|A | | T|s|T | | C|e|C | |tapeH|.|Htape| | |f| | |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper |#####|s|#####| \ |e| / \ |.| / \ |f| / \ |u| / |ta|s|pe| |ta|e|pe| |.| |.| |_| The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled. 6.When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the burning match heads. HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. To about cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room temperatures. Cut the dry fuse with scissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefully to avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry. HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tying up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It should continue to burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250. It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden. It can be cut to desired lengths with scissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning times. ---IMPACT IGNITION--- Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a removable impact initiator. The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A No. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $20. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: ________________ | | _ | | | | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| _______| |^^^^^^^| | ___________| | | No. 11 |_______| percussion _______ ------- Threads for screwing cap : here |__________ nipple onto bomb |____ | | |^^^^^^^^^| |_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| | | |_________________| When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard. ---MAGICUBE IGNITOR--- A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact initiator can be produced from the common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has a small metal rod holding it in place. CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB. Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the plastic can be easily peeled away. The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thick glue-like paste. Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the remainder then ignition should be very reliable. To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air the appropriate end will hit the ground first. ---ELECTRICAL IGNITION--- Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, however, military explosive squibs which will do the job. Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order explosive. ---HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE--- By Capt. Hack & GW Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite. ---ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE--- Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want about inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use. Cut a by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. Place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. The strand should be surrounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. A single flashlight battery will set this off. ---ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION--- Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed ---Mercury Switches--- Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch. ______________ A / \ B _____wire +______/_________ \ \ ( Hg )| / \ _(_Hg___)|___/ | | wire - | | | When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can touch both contacts in the horizontal position. If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a swinging door in the vertical position, the motion of the door would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the vertical position, causing the mercury to touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or squib in an explosive device. ---Tripwire Switches--- A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it to explode. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since the spring also conducts electricity. ---Radio Control Detonators--- In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the device became a detonator). ---DELAYS--- A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it does. ---FUSE DELAYS--- It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the hole formed. |=| |=| ---------- filter |=| | | | | |o| ---------- hole for fuse cigarette ------------ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_| ---------- light this end ---TIMER DELAYS--- Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is desired. The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would not have to be stepped up. ---CHEMICAL DELAYS--- Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on England. The delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days after the initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British citizenry. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container. _ _ | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_____________| | | | | | | | sulfuric | | | | | | | | acid | | | | | |---------- aluminum foil | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) |_________________| The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways. 1.Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the acid. 2.Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite. 3.Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permanganate in a similar way. 206.Film Canisters II by Bill For a relatively low shrapnel explosion, I suggest pouring it into an empty 35mm film canister. Poke a hole in the plastic lid for a fuse. These goodies make an explosion audible a mile away easily. 1.Poke the hole before putting the flash powder into the canister. 2.Don't get any powder on the lip of the canister. 3.Only use a very small quantity and work your way up to the desired result. 4.Do not pack the powder, it works best loose. 5.Do not grind or rub the mixture - it is friction sensitive. 6.Use a long fuse. 207.Book Bombs by Exodus Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vise works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this: ________________________ | ____________________ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |__________________| | |______________________| (Book covers omitted) This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination. 208.Phone Bombs by Exodus The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was. Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 in the receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes... IMPROVED PHONE BOMB The above seems overly complicated to me... it would be better to rig the device as follows: FIRST UNPLUG THE PHONE FROM THE WALL. Wire the detonator IN LINE with the wires going to the earpiece, (may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can receive the full line power, not just the audio power to the earpiece) Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back in. When they pick up the phone, power will flow through the circuit to the detonator.... ________ /|------|\ ~ | | ~ @@@@@@@@ @@@@@@@@@@ @@@@@@@@@@ 209.SPECIAL AMMUNITION by Exodus SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is not difficult. To acquire a blowgun, please contact the editor at one of the addresses given in the introduction. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Empty gelatin pill capsules can be purchased from most health-food stores. Next, the capsule would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as mercury fulminate. An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this: ____________________ /mercury | \----------------------- (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels \________|___________/----------------------- Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you could easily blow the back of your head off. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed exploding bullet is shown below. _o_ ------------ drop of wax /|*|\ | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive | |_| | |_____| This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. In many spy thrillers, an assassin is depicted as manufacturing "exploding bullets" by placing a drop of mercury in the nose of a bullet. Through experimentation it has been found that this will not work. Mercury reacts with lead to form a inert silvery compound. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a chemical fire bottle, a pipe bomb, or a thermite bomb. After the device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below: ____ || | || | || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel || | ||__| || | || | ------- fuse || | || || || || --------- dowel || || || || --------- insert this end into shotgun || || Special "grenade-launcher blanks" should be used - use of regular blank ammunition may cause the device to land perilously close to the user. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump BB guns, CO BB guns, and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BB GUNS A BB gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or pistol that uses compressed air or CO gas to fire a projectile with a caliber of .177, either BB, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a BB gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below: _____ primers _______ | | | | | | V V ______ ______ | ________________________ |------------------- | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or | ________________________ |------------------- cotton |_____ _____|------------------- ^ | | |_______ antenna tubing The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in the begining of this document is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in this document could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely. 210.Rocketry by Exodus Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear. ROCKETS Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before the myth of Christ began. They were used for entertainment in the form of fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them. _________________________________________________________ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| _______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard casing The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a 3 second delay. NOTE: An extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. BASIC ROCKET BOMB A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of the "crater maker" ignited, the clay over the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. ____________ rocket engine | _________ crater maker | | | | V | _______________________________V_ |_______________________________| ______________________ \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ |_______________________________| thrust> - - - - - - smoke> *** ejection charge> :::: Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: |\ | \ | \ | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine | \ | \ | \ | | | | | | leading edge | -------> | | | | | trailing edge | | <-------- | | | | | | | | \_____/ The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. | fin | <------ fin | | | | | | | __|__ | V / \ V ---------------| |--------------- \_____/ |o <----------- segment of plastic straw | | | <------ fin | | By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one illustrated on the following page: ____ / \ | | cut here _____ | | | | | | / \ V / \ _________________/ \________________ / \ / \ /____________________________________________\ ^ | | and here ______| Bend wire to this shape: _______ insert into straw | | | V ____________________________________________ \ \ \ \ \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle | | | | | | <---------- put this end in ground | LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as travels, and it gains velocity. Multi-stage rockets must be designed somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rockets to fly straight, their center of gravity must be ahead of their center of drag. This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker | | | | |___| | | | | | | | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine /| 6 |\ / | | | \ / | 5 | \ / |___| \ ---- fin / /| |\ \ / / | | \ \ / / | | \ \ / / | C | \ \ | / | 6 | \ | | / | | | \ | | / | 0 | \ | |/ |___| \| | / \ | \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin | | | | C6-0 rocket engine The fuse is put in the bottom engine. Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the fin area gets larger. 211.Basic Pipe Cannon by Exodus A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If one uses a projectile such as a CO cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to an inch thick, and be very smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO cartridge. Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: __________________ fuse hole | | V ________________________________________________________________ | |_____________________________________________________________| |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO cartridge | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ |_|______________________________________________________________| An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, and shoot the CO cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this: ___ ( ) |C | | M| | | | | \ / [] <--- taped fuse [] [] ! <--- Bare fuse (add matcheads) ROCKET FIRING CANNON A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like the image below. The fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high velocity. ___ / \ | | | C | | M | | | | | |___| | E | | N | | G | | I | | N | | E | |___| REINFORCED PIPE CANNON In high school, a friend and I built cannons and launched CO cartridges, etc, etc. However, the design of the cannon is what I want to add here. It was made from plain steel water pipe, steel wire, and lead. Here is a cross section: _______ | | | xxxxx_____________________________________________ 2" ID pipe | |_________________________________________________ | | .................... <- steel wire } | | _____ } 3/4" ID pipe this | | | xxx______________________________________}_________________ wire | | | |__________________________________________________________ holds | |....| | it up |>|....| | in the| | | |__________________________________________________________ cooker| | | xxx________________________________________________________ | | |____ } | | ..................... } <- cast lead | |_______________________________________________}_ | | _____________________________________________ | xxxxx |_____| We dug into the side of a sand pile and built a chimney out of firebrick. Then we stood the assembled pipe and wire on end in the chimney, sitting on some bricks. We then had a blowtorch heating up the chimney, so that the pipe was red hot. Then we poured molten lead into the space between the pipes. If the caps aren't screwed on real tight, some of the lead will leak out. If that happens, turn off the blowtorch and the pipe will cool enough and the lead will stiffen and stop the leak. We used homemade and commercial black powder, and slow smokeless shotgun powder in this thing. After hundreds of shots we cut it up and there was no evidence of cracks or swelling of the inner pipe. 212.Smoke Bombs by Exodus One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxidizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion. ---SIMPLE SMOKE--- The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary 6 pt. ZINC POWDER 1 pt. SULFUR POWDER Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. ---COLORED FLAMES--- Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. By putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that produce the different colors of flames appear below. COLOR MATERIAL USED IN Red Strontium Salts Road Flares [Strontium Nitrate] Red Sparklers Green Barium Salts Green Sparklers [Barium Nitrate] Yellow Sodium Salts Gold Sparklers [Sodium Nitrate] Blue Powdered Copper Blue Sparklers Old Pennies White Powdered Magnesium -or- Firestarters Aluminum Aluminum Foil Purple Potassium Permanganate Purple Fountains Treating Sewage 213.Firecrackers by Exodus A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The instructions are below: 1.Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. 2.Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package. 3.When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a desired length of fuse. 4.Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxidizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top. 5.Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more epoxy. 6.Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it to dry. 7.For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY! I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker. 8.If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to semi-professional displays can be produced. ---SKYROCKETS--- An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. 1.Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that the power doubles with each letter. 2.Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue. 3.Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about an inch. 4.By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various types of effects can be produced. 5.By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or MRV's can be produced. 6.Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. ---ROMAN CANDLES--- Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well worth the trouble. 1.Buy a inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths. 2.Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the drying agent. About of an inch is sufficient. 3.Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly. 4.Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube. 5.Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow the ball to dry. 6.When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently against the ball with a pencil. 7.When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. 8.If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. 9.The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. 214. Suppliers II by Exodus Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained through a public or university library. There are also many publications that are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes fireworks companies and the like. COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES PO BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING MURFREESBORO, TN 37133 UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE PO BOX 1378-SN HERMISTON, OR 97838 AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES DINGMAN'S FERRY, PA 18328 BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES PO BOX 226 PORT HURON, MI 48060 CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS PO BOX 22927 ROCHESTER, NY 14692 R. ALLEN PROFESSIONAL FIREWORKS CONSTRUCTION PO BOX 146 BOOKS & FORMULAS WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090 MJ DISTRIBUTING FIREWORKS FORMULAS PO BOX 10585 YAKIMA, WA 98909 EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC TEAR GAS GRENADES, 316 CALIFORNIA AVE PROTECTION DEVICES RENO, NV 89509 BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS PO BOX 1451 JANESVILLE, WI 53547 NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO INC CLASS "C" FIREWORKS PO BOX 3504 STAMFORD, CT 06095 RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS PO BOX 581 EDGEMONT, PA 19028 STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD RAPID RIVER, MI 49878 WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS PO BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) ROCHESTER, IN 46975 BOOKS THE ANARCHIST COOKBOOK (highly circulated) THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL (formulas work, but put maker at risk) MILITARY EXPLOSIVES Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", $20 manual mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual" or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, it's in the office). This is a $60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus demolitions, and non-quarry blasting. 215.Checklist for Raids on Labs by Exodus In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order of priority would probably resemble the following: LIQUIDS SOLIDS ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum ____ Potassium Permanganate GASES ____ Sulfur (flowers of) ____ Hydrogen ____ Mercury ____ Oxygen ____ Potassium Nitrate ____ Chlorine ____ Potassium Hydroxide ____ Carbon Dioxide ____ Phosphorus ____ Sodium Azide ____ Lead Acetate ____ Barium Nitrate Print this sheet out and carry it with you! Memorize it, anything. It is INVALUABLE. All of these chemicals should be carried in your school lab. Happy hunting. :) 216.Misc Anarchy by Exodus Tennis ball cannons and other information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of 15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing! At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather than the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a bunch of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube of two feet or more. At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a small hole in the side at the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then placed therein. In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics, we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato chips provided spectacular entertainment. Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole in the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The "fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite it. BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that! Our version of the potato chip cannon, originally designed around the Pringles potato chip can, was built similarly. Ours used coke cans, six with the top and bottom removed, and the seventh had Bottle opener holes all around one end, the top of this can was covered with a grid or piece of wire screening to keep the tennis ball from falling all the way to the bottom. This was spiral wrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape. A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For ignition we used lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push button on the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked through the other hole. We would then lie in ambush, waiting for something to move. When fired with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum range the ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 launch angle. Closer up the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally rattle anyone inside. Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls. More Fun Stuff for Terrorists Carbide Bomb This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball! Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!! Balloons Balloons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the balloon tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette.... get the picture? Good. 217.Combo Locks II by Exodus First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar (known as the shackle) that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it. To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when you don't know the combination to begin with). To bypass this hassle, simply take a thinned hairpin (file it down) or a opened out piece of a collapsing antenna (the inside diameter of the curved piece of metal should be the same as the diameter of the shackle- if the metal is too thick, use fine sandpaper to thin it down. Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can jimmy various locks. Look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing it to open. Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the shim in. 218.Misc Anarchy II by Ragner Rocker Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers, principals and other people who are just assholes. Depending on your level of hatred of this person I would advise that you do some of these following experiments: 1.Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy - many of you already know that gasoline + dishsoap (e.g. joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture called napalm. Now napalm is a jelly-like substance used in bombs, flame-throwers, etc. Now you can only guess what this mixture would do to someone's fuel line!!!! 2.Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe - when the exhaust pipe heats up (and it will!!) the motor oil or castor oil on the pipe will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car. Who knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!! 3.Light Bulb Bomb 4.Simple smoke/stink bomb - you can purchase sulfur at a drugstore under the name flowers of sulfur. Now when sulfur burns it will give off a very strong odor and plenty of smoke. Now all you need is a fuse from a firecracker, a tin can, and the sulfur. Fill the can with sulfur (pack very lightly), put aluminum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value your lungs. You can find many uses for this or at least I hope so. FUN WITH ALARMS A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can also use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells. You can purchase this at any hardware store as insulation. It is easy to handle and dries faster. Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. This alarm is a small device that is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his body capacitance sets off the alarm. These nasty nuisances can be found by walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly. if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal object to the knob. This will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think someone is breaking in and call room service for help. All sorts of fun and games will ensue. Some high-security installations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. Most use three or four digits. To figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from all fingerprints by using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol. After the keypad has been used just apply finger print dust and all four digits will be marked. now all you have to do is figure out the order. If you want to have some fun with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the same time. Many units use this as a panic button. This will bring the owner and the cops running and ever-one will have a good time. Never try to remove these panels from the wall, as they have built-in tamper switches. On the subject of holdups, most places (including supermarkets, liquor stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip. These little nasties are placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. That's why when you make your withdrawal it's best to help yourself so you can check for these little nasties. If you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of twenties, and then pull out the twenties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind to prevent the circuit from closing. SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on passersby. It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's soft drink can. but if such a crude person should try to drink from your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast! ! ! ! ! ! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER ---- ---- ! !1! ! ! ===== ! !* ! ! "! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER ! ! !% ! ! ==== ! ! ! ! # ! ! --- ! ! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS ! / ! ! ! --------- Pyro Book II by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE 1.Put 1 teaspoon full of potassium permanganate in a tin can. 2.Add a few drops of glycerine. 3.Wait 3-4 min. 4.Get the hell out. The stuff will smoke, then burst into flames. Potassium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple]. The reaction will spatter a bit so it can be messy and it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [i.e. 1 part to 3 parts] EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know you would like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does it or how the ancient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the resources and materials available to you. Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume Potassium or Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of experiments for this. ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast burning rate. As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this. I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I am guessing you would prefer it that way. HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for a bomb without dying of boredom. Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher was killed that way. Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat to light the match. Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 angle. Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, the match will zip up and hit the ceiling. I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. It should fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only cost a few dollars. What you will get is about a gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwise, the acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and follow me into the next installment. HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE: To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid in the depression and step back. It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture. The time delay can be controlled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to set off the device of your choice. Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way. But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses. PEROXYACETONE PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK SENSITIVE MATERIALS: 4 mL Acetone 4 mL 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 drops Conc. Hydrochloric Acid 150 mm Test Tube Add 4 mL acetone and 4 mL hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40C. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away). I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some experiments. THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments. I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this information. It is provided for use by people knowledgeable in chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE MILK OF MAGNESIA: MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE: 4% IODINE RUBBING ALCOHOL: 70% OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!) GENERATING CHLORINE GAS This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you should know what you're doing before you try this... Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach', and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with Ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom. Then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. Since the chlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either Ajax or ammonia (don't!). CHLORINE + TURPENTINE Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning... GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter than air.... light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*. Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. This involve separating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes. This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity. WARNING: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces both Hydrogen and Oxygen at each electrode. HYDROGEN + CHLORINE Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say "good-bye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react... PREPARATION OF OXYGEN Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off. Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things to burn better... IODINE Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To separate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen triiodide. I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches) TRIPWIRES by The Mortician Well first of all I recommend that you read the file on my board about landmines... If you can't then here is the concept. You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this. ------------------>+ battery steel || ->- battery wool || / :==:--- <--fuse \ || / ---- spst switch--\ So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light. Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the explosive. Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be, bury it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive. To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques... On my board... (201)376-4462 BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES BY Vlad Tepes (of Chicago C64 fame) Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented, and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby trap. There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise remains the same. What you'll need: 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to bend easily (galvanized iron works well) 6 feet of wire or fishing line 5-15 feet of strong string or rope 1 really sick mind. Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30. Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or string so the line comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string so the loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail between the two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others (see diagrams) bent nails / || ^ slight upward tension # /\ || #/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on) # ------!----()------ # trip wire \ / Trunk third nail Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a stump etc). When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing pin). There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two bent nails. A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring. || */\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------* SPRING BOLT Trip wire With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled. Improvised Explosives Written by: The Lich Gelatin Explosive from Anti-Freeze CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT KILLING HIS/HER SELF IN THE PROCESS. This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive except that it is supple and pliable to -10C to -20C Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride until a specific gravity of 1.12 at 0C or 1.11 at 20C is obtained. This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol. It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good idea to reduce the chance of residual acid being present in the final explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine: Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5% In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to shock as is nitroglycerin. The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use this explosive as soon as possible. If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10C). This explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivalent. These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use them. Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very few mishaps. Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an anvil. Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any doubts DON'T. Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin This explosive is a phenol derivative. It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restricts its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. This explosive is a cousin to TNT but is more powerful than it's cousin. It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistency. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 mL of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150F and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600 mL), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding 58 g of sodium nitrate or 77 g of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30-40C). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 mL of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and heated to 80C and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plasticity range of 0-40C. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4 or other RDX based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, SHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE UP AS NEEDED. Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, and other forces involved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as just an expedient method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5% sodium hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 g potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge). When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it's between room temperature and 0C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56g per 100 mL distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process if purification is called fractional crystallization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g/cc) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the sake of charge computation. If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the manufacture process in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the wax/vaseline mixture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation velocity is 3300 m/sec. Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process. In this reaction the HTH (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy crystallization of the potassium chlorate. This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some HTH swimming pool chlorination compound or equivalent (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enameled steel container place 1200g HTH and 220g potassium chloride or 159g sodium chloride. Add enough boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed. This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystallize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid after filtration) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved. These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to drive off all traces of water (40-75C). These crystals are ground to a very fine powder (400 mesh). If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystallization is much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will crystallize out of the solution as it cools. The powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this explosive it will have a tendency to cake and has a slightly lower detonation velocity. This explosive is composed of the following: Potassium/Sodium Chlorate 90% Vaseline 10% Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline carefully. This explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is used) should not be exposed to water or moisture. The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of 2-3% aluminum substituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec for the sodium salt based explosive. It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline. ASSORTED NASTIES: Sweet-Oil In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. If you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure that I did some damage. Slow Air OK, sneak up the victims car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is blows out on the road with a razor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't cut a hole all the way through) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out at a high speed if your lucky. Vanishing Paint Spread a little gas or paint thinner on the victims car and this will make his paint run and fade. Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190. Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough. Loose Wheel Loosen the lugs on you victims tires so that they will soon fall off. This can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls off. Dual Neutral This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could chip some of the teeth off the gears. Un-Midaser Crawl under there car with a ratchet and loosen all the nuts on their exhaust so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This method also works on transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you work the more you fuck them over. LAUGHING GAS Learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of the earliest anesthetics. After a little while of inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it. The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol. First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate. When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break it up and store it in a bottle. A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp. When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F. When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on. CAUTION: NO supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize it. It's easy to die from NO because you're suffocating and your breathing reflex doesn't know it. Do not put your head in a plastic bag. You will cheerfully choke to death. PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger of apprehension. They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell. There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design. First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong tape. The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe. The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer. To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing actually fires. Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns. Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunately, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap. Using this method, you can accommodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accommodates the bullet. The second accommodates its wider powder chamber. A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long. Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail. In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand. Repeat firings may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use. Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book 'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their fucking school to kingdom scum! Astrolite The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. Astrolite G "Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that the 2:1 ratio is not perfect, and that if you screw around with it long enough, that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous' hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous... Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with. Astrolite A/A-1-5 Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. Misc Info You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. Sodium Chlorate Formulas Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate, and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3 lbs for about $6.00. Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder 65% Sodium Chlorate 22% Charcoal 13% Sulfur Sprinkles of Graphite on top Rocket Fuel 6 parts Sodium Chlorate 5 parts Rubber Cement Mix *THOROUGHLY* Rocket Fuel II (Better Performance) 50% Sodium Chlorate 35% Rubber Cement ('One-Coat' brand) 10% Epoxy Resin Hardener 5% Sulfur You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using. Incendiary Mixture 55% Aluminum Powder (Atomized) 45% Sodium Chlorate 5% Sulfur Impact Mixture 50% Red Phosphorus 50% Sodium Chlorate Unlike potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. Filler explosive 85% Sodium Chlorate 10% Vaseline 5% Aluminum Powder Nitromethane formulas I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite. Nitromethane (CH3NO) Specific Gravity: 1.139 Flash Point: 95F Auto-Ignite: 785F Derivation: Reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats, etc. To be detonated with a #8 cap, add: 1.95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2.94% nitromethane + 6% aniline Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS. Nitromethane 'solid' explosives 2 parts nitromethane 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder) Soak for 3-5 min. When done, store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, and has 30% more brilliance. MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! by Phucked Agent! Materials: 1 Mercury Battery (1 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid) 1 working lamp with on/off switch It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't consider trying this one or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces! 1.Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb lights up. 2.If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord 3.Unscrew the bulb (Don't touch the hot-spot!) 4.Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching the Hot-spot contact. 5.Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparks given off! 6.Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket. 7.And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!! 219.Thermite IV by Kilroy DISCLAIMER : The making and possession of the following devices and mixtures is probably illegal in most communities. The incendiaries are capable of burning in excess of 5400F and are next to impossible to extinguish. If you make them you accept all responsibility for their possession and use. You also accept all responsibility for your own stupidity and carelessness. This information is intended solely to educate. All Formulas are by Weight Thermites are a group of pyrotechnics mixtures in which a reactive metal reduces oxygen from a metallic oxide. This produces a lot of heat, slag and pure metal. The most common thermite is ferroaluminum thermite, made from aluminum (reactive metal) and iron oxide (metal oxide). When it burns it produces aluminum oxide (slag) and pure iron. Thermite is usually used to cut or weld metal. As an experiment, a 3 lb. brick of thermite was placed on an aluminum engine block. After the thermite was done burning, only a small portion of block was melted. However, the block was very warped out of shape plus there were cracks all through the block. Ferro-thermite produces about 930 calories per gram The usual proportions of ferro-thermite are 25% aluminum and 75% iron oxide The iron oxide usually used is not rust (Fe2O3) but iron scale (Fe3O4). Rust will work but you may want to adjust the mixture to about 77% rust. The aluminum is usually coarse powder to help slow down the burning rate. The chemicals are mixed together thoroughly and compressed into a suitable container. A first fire mix is poured on top and ignited. NOTE: Thermites are generally very safe to mix and store. They are not shock or friction sensitive and ignite at about 2000F. A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns hot enough to light the thermite reliably. A very good one is : Potassium Nitrate 5 parts Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts Sulfur 2 parts Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety fuse and burns intensely. One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the aluminum and the oxide. This causes them to separate out rendering the thermite useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals to each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the thermite must be heated to melt the sulfur. Iron Oxide 70 % Aluminum 23 % Sulfur 7 % Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325F and let the mix heat for a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle the sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few minutes to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is still hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the diasite to hold about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix. When diasite burns it forms sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide when in contact with water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting efforts. Thermite can be made not to separate by compressing it under a couple of tons pressure. The resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite powder. CAST THERMITE: This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens into a solid mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite, but it makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as follows. Plaster of Paris 2 parts Fine and Coarse Mixed Aluminum 2 parts Iron Oxide 3 parts Mix together well and add enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a mold and let it sit for hour. Pour off any extra water that separates out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in the sun for one day and put in a 250F oven for a couple of hours. Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry. THERMITE BOMB: Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite formula and substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix. Take 15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around the fuse. Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-piece spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the inside of the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the mold with the cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center of the filled mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and assemble mold. The mold will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick out. In about an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball of thermite with the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse sticking out of the ball. Dry the ball in the sun for about a week. DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN! The fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite. Since the thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the thermite and it burns faster than normal. The result is a small explosion. The thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag around. Use this carefully ! THERMITE WELL: To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and drill a 1/4 in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a thin (20 gal) sheet of mild steel over the hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferro-thermite and insert a first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the crucible. This should hold the crucible about 1 in. up. Place the well over your target and ignite the first fire. The well works this way. The thermite burns, making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it goes to the bottom of the well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet. This produces a small delay which gives the iron and slag more time to separate fully. The molten iron drips out through the hole in the bottom of the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the crucible. The force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target. A 2 lb thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with different configurations to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a flower pot coated with a magnesium oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks however. Take the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it. This produces a fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag. THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION: This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself if you really truly want to make it before you do any work on it. It is next to impossible to give any dimensions of containers or weights of charges because of the availability of parts changes from one person to the next. However here is a general description of this device affectionately known as a HELLHOUND. Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be electrically ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor side put a small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz Drill a small hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor through the hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement. Try ferrule cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of the end caps with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the pipe. This gives you a thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the thermite is electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other finally setting of the flash powder charge. Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout metal container which is sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders" to keep the device away from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the wires out through the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel proof epoxy. Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or gasoline works great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap and it is done. The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires. When the thermite is ignited it superheats the liquid fuel. Since the container is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When the thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and making a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot thermite slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix. The result is obvious. Try about 1 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel. For the pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may dissolve the epoxy don't keep this device around for very long. But ask yourself, do you really want to make this? EXOTIC THERMITES: Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal fluorides-magnesium or aluminum. If there is an excess of fluoride compound in the mixture, fluorine gas can be released. Fluorine is extremely corrosive and reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into flames by mere contact. For teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium. A strong first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture. Both the teflon and the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any smoke from the burning mixture. If you use metal-fluorides instead of teflon, use fluorides of low energy metals. Lead fluoride is a good example. Try using 90% lead fluoride and 10% aluminum. Warning: Fluoride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately equal to cyanide compounds. Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate and aluminum. When this burns, it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts water releases hydrogen phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air. Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as white-lockite. Use about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have to be altered for better burning as I have not experimented with it much and don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but it is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent of magnesium works well. Fighting thermite fires: Two ways to fight thermite fires are either smothering the thermite with sand. This doesn't put out the thermite but it does help contain it and block some of the heat. The other way is to flood the thermite with a great amount of water. This helps to break the thermite apart and stop the reaction. If you use a small amount of water, an explosion may result as the thermite may reduce the water and release hydrogen gas. Thermite can start fires from the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby flammable substances can catch fire even though no sparks or flame touch them.

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