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I specialize in guitar and bass re-fretting. I use a 'neck-jig' and many techniques acquired over 16 years to make guitar necks play even better than they did when they were new. I re-shape the surface of the fret-board to be straight under string tension. If a slight amount of 'relief' is needed, it can be controlled with the neck's truss-rod. I like between .002"-.004" of relief on my own guitars with a string height of +1/32" on the high E string and +3/64" on the low E string at the 12th fret.
My current project is building a 'surrogate' guitar/bass body which will allow me to do fret-work by mail. All I'll need is the neck. Bolt-on necks only, of course.
It is better to have an older neck refretted, than to buy a new neck because an older neck is usually much more stable than a new neck. A new neck will often develop humps and twists during the first couple of years, then you'll need to have the fret-board re-shaped to get the neck to play it's best.  Just have an older neck refretted by someone who really knows what they're doing. It will cost about the same as buying a new neck, but it will end up being better than a new neck. A new neck often needs the frets to be leveled, so consider that too. It's unlikely that you'll find a new neck in the 150-250 price range that will play as well as a neck that's been reshaped with a 'neck-jig'.
Fret bender
Index page
Fret-work by mail
Workshop photos