ASHLEY, William Henry, American fur trader and politician, a Representative from Missouri; was born a poor man in Powhatan County, Virginia. , in 1778; attended the common schools; moved He moved to St. Genevieve, Mo. (then Upper Louisiana), in 1803. ,

This area had been controlled by the Spanish until late 1800 when it was ceded by Spain to France. On Easter, 1803, Napoleon announced his decision to sell the Louisiana Territory to the United States. Ashley was in this new territorty the year that it became part of the U.S. He arrived in this new territory with "a knowledge of surveying and a slight familiarity with geology".

in 1803; engaged in the manufacture of saltpeter; became a merchant and later a surveyor; moved to St. Louis, Mo.,

1806 William Henry Ashley and Andrew Henry, 1806-1825:

1807 Early on, at least one American saw there was money to be made by organizing the mountain men into large fur trading companies. His name was Manuel Lisa. Ruthless and violent, Lisa was hated by his men but he was a very successful businessman. Starting in 1807, he quickly built a chain of forts along the Missouri and his men fanned out in all directions to harvest the abundant beaver.

in 1808; brigadier general of militia during the War of 1812; traded with the Indians and dealt in fursAshley moved to St. Louis around 1808 and became a Brigadier General in the Missouri Militia during the War of 1812. Before the war, he operated a gunpowder factory after discovering a cave in Texas County, Missouri that was a source of saltpeter, a vital ingredient of gunpowder. His future partner, Andrew Henry owned a factory that produced bullets. This is how the two earned their first fortunes.

American fur traders were determined to penetrate the northern Rockies and in the 1820's William Ashley and Jedediah Smith developed an overland route through the Platte Valley and over South Pass.7 For the next two decades British and American trappers struggled for economic domination of the Northwest. In this context the Americans were worsted once again. After all, they were fighting the greatest mercantile empire in the world. In the Hudson's Bay Company, which had absorbed the North West Company in 1821, they had an adversary enjoying the advantage of vigorous governmental support as well as the practical experi-

After the war, Ashley became a merchant and performed some surveying. Ashley was then elected as Missouri's first Lieutenant Governor in 1820 and served until 1824.

1820 In 1820 he was elected lieutenant governor of Missouri elected as the first Lieutenant Governor of Missouri and served from 1820 to 1824;

I call Ashley 'the reluctant adventurer'. Don Berry A Majority of Scoundrels, "Ashley's first love and focus was politics"

(served as a U.S. Representative for the Jacksonian party between 1831 to 1837) and he wanted to become the governor of the state. But, then as now, politics requires money, so Ashley turned to the fur business as a source of revenue to support his run for the governorship.

In 1822, William Ashley & Andrew Henry began posting the now famous ads seeking the 100 enterprising young men to ascend the Missouri River to its source. Ashley was the businessman behind the operations while Henry was the field commander. Henry had knowledge of the fur business and had been to the Snake River area in 1811.

Berry describes Ashley as being a cautious and an ambitious man.

He was in his mid forties at this time, and becoming known as a great adventurer would probably be considered ludicrous by Ashley.

He picked good men to do the job, but when those he had hired were unable to do the job or when, as Henry did, retired from the business, he went into the field and personally led the expeditions.

As a result of these explorations, he made his place in history and helped open the lands west of the Rockies to the new country of the United States.

In 1822, the new company of Ashley and Henry attempted to send three keelboats up the Missouri River.

Henry led the first of the three all the way to the mouth of the Yellowstone and built a post that later became known as Fort Henry.

This expedition consisted of 150 men, 60 horses and one keelboat.

The second keelboat met disaster and sunk with all the provisions onboard for a loss of $10,000. Ashley then made the decision to lead the expedition with the third boat to meet Henry.

After reaching the Yellowstone and delivering his supplies and men, Ashley immediately returned to St. Louis to start building the supply expedition for the men now stationed at Fort Henry. Jedediah Smith and a small group of men accompanied Ashley downriver.

1822 History remembers Ashley primarily for the famous ads that he placed in the St. Louis newspapers seeking men for his expeditions to the Rocky Mountains in the early 1820's.

Unlike Lisa, Ashley did not build a chain of forts to manage his fur trading operation. Instead, he sent his men out alone and made arrangements to meet them all at a centrally-located place a year later. At the pre-determined time, Ashley would load up his wagons with supplies to replenish his men and then head off to meet them. Ashley's yearly journey began in St. Louis and took him deep into the heart of the Rockies. Importantly, his wagons were the first vehicles to penetrate the west. He was, unknowingly, blazing a wagon road for the settlers who would follow a decade later.

Enterprising Young Men

The subscriber wishes to engage ONE HUNDRED MEN, to ascend
the river Missouri to its source, there to be employed for one,
two, or three years. For particulars enquire of Major Andrew
Henry, near the Lead Mines, in the County of Washington, (who
will ascend with, and command party) or to the subscriber at
St. Louis.

Wm. H. Ashley

This ad appeared in the Missouri Gazette & Public Advertiser, Feb. 13, 1822
and in the St. Louis Enquirer two weeks later.The prize for these trapping expeditions was the beaver, Castor Canadensis, which had a glossy underfur that had a natural tendency to mat , or "felt" and was waterproof. For those reasons, it was used in many different styles of hats of the period. Each pelt was worth $6 - $8. Unfortunately, for the beaver, their fur was the one commodity that served as the primary source of trade that could justify the expense of exploration and settlement of the new lands in the west.

Don Berry states that Ashley was basically bankrupt when he started his bid for the governorship and was in debt to the tune of $100,000. A lot of money now and especially a lot of money in the early 1800's. But due to the respect that he had garnered in the community and the good credit that he had established, he found backers that were willing to put up the money to support these expeditions into the Rockies.

Ashley was not the first to cross the Rockies or to set up a fur business, but much like Henry Ford, who was not the first to build automobiles, but one who revolutionized the production of automobiles, so did Ashley who revolutionized the fur business, helped foster the famous Mountain Men of the West, and was instumental in opening the west to the Americans.

At the time Ashley and Henry went into the Rockies, the lands to the west and southward were under Spanish control and those lands in the northwest were under British control. Thanks to the efforts of Ashley and his men, they helped to open these lands for settlement for Americans so that today, California, Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada and Utah are part of the U.S. and not Mexico and Oregon, Washington and Idaho are not part of Canada.

. He sent fur-trading expeditions up the Missouri River to the Yellowstone in 1822 and 1823; the parties included Jedediah Smith and other mountain men. A detachment of the second party under Thomas Fitzpatrick went through South Pass to the Green River valley

Robert Stuart discovered South Pass in 1813.9 Ten years later William Ashley's demonstration that wagons could be driven through the Pass suggested an overland wagon road to Oregon and revived the old dream of Asiatic trade

1823

In 1823, Ashley made another expedition up the Missouri. At the Arikara Villages near today's Pierre, South Dakota, the expedition ran into trouble.

Ashley generally had good relations with the Indians, with the exception of the Arikaras. The evidence points to the fact that he tried to trade with the Indians, if given a chance, and relied upon them for information, horses and food. Ashley and his men in the other expeditions often camped with or near Indian villages. Ashley seemed most impressed with the Shoshone. He did have trouble with the Crows, though, when they stole some of his horses.

William Ashley Under Attack from the Arikara Villages, 1823

; unsuccessful candidate for governor in 1824; He was defeated for the governorship of Missouri in 1824 and 1836,

South Pass: One of the most important discoveries in American history.
Providing an easy route across the Rockies.
Used by Gen. Ashley's Rocky Mountain Fur Co. 1824.

National Geographic map, June 1940, pp. 711-756.

In July 1825, Jedediah attended the first Mountain Man rendezvous at Henry's Fork then accompanied William Ashley back to St. Louis with the season's bounty of furs. En route downriver, Ashley took Jedediah as partner to replace the retiring Andrew Henry.

• It has been said that "the written history of the country west of the Rockies
  where Americans made their first stand for possession begins
  with a single name and a date painted high on a mountain precipice".
  The name is "Ashley" and the date is "1825".

  United States Forest Service - Ashley National Forest

  ---

1825

Ashley and his successors got rich, but his trappers largely got fleeced. Nonetheless, the interplay was critical--because the Ashley took important information about the West back to civilization.

These fur traders along with John Colter, Manuel Lisa, Thomas James, Jedediah Smith and others, explored the Yellowstone and upper Missouri Rivers for its fur potential. They constructed some of the first trading posts in Montana along the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers. In addition to a journal kept by Ashley, Thomas James recorded the history of their activities. Ashley's journal includes a trip down the Bighorn and Yellowstone Rivers but contains very little natural history information of this region.

founded an organization which in 1830 became the Rocky Mountain Fur Co.,and conducted trading and exploring expeditions to the headwaters of the Missouri River;

elected as a Jacksonian to the Twenty-second Congress to fill the vacancy caused by the death of Spencer D. Pettis;

In 1825, Ashley accompanied another expedition that crossed from the upper Platte to Green River and began its exploration. In its valley he held the first rendezvous of the mountain fur traders and trappers.

1825

Ashley left two documents describing the events of 1825: One is what appears to be his field diary, containing daily entries. The other is a letter to Gen. Atkinson written after Ashley's return that fall, and contains a narrative of his 1825 season in the Rockies. These two documents are mostly consistent, although the narrative appears to have been written from memory because in some cases, details are different from those recorded in the contemporaneous diary.

The diary was kept from March 25 to June 27, 1825. The diary commences on the Platte, just east of the continental divide. It describes the journey to the Green River and the division of the trapping party there. It also details Ashley's trip down the Green River in bullboats, and ends just a few days before Ashley's parties met on the Henry's Fork for the first Rocky Mountain Rendezvous.

The narrative covers a longer period of time, from the time he left Ft. Atkinson on November 3, 1824 until he reached the Yellowstone below Big Horn Mountain on the 7th day of August, 1825. From there he proceeded downriver in boats with his rich cargo of furs, to the settlements.

In 1825, William H. Ashley and his fur trappers were the first Europeans to enter Echo Park. Fur trader William H Ashley floated down the Green River not far from that ridge in 1825.

William H. Ashley's 1825 Rocky Mountain Papers

The Diary of Willam H. Ashley, March 25 - June 27, 1825

Friday 26^th March we continued our course W across the vally and camped on The principal fork of the Platt distant about 8 miles where it bears W S W. - clear & cold

Saturday 27^th Cloudy cold windy morning we traveled W to day about 12 miles and Encamped on a small Stream coming from the cliffs of the principal river the country here being Entirely destitute of wood our only fuel sage

Sunday 28^th Cold and clair. we traveled to day 6 miles N W over high river cliffs. The country was such as to prevent me from continuing my course W The principal branch of the river b^g S W & N E distant from this camp about 5 miles The country generally - is becoming very much cut to pieces by ravines or dry hollers some of the vallies are verry fertile but their driness renders them unfit for cultivation - Snow is so common that I have omitted to note its falling at least two days out of Three

Monday 29^th Clear & cold the forenoon after noon cloudy with some snow we travelled about 18 miles W N W. over a high level country the head waters of the Platt. we crossed at the distance of ten mile from camp, a creek Bearing N & S south of which crossing a high mountain bore [strikeout: South] N distant about 6 miles. between This mountain and one W the creek appeared to pass we Encamped on a small creek b^g N E without wood our fuel Sage water scarce although the remaining snow is dayly melting-

Tuesday 30^thwe traveled about 8 miles W over a valley in which are several ponds of water detached mountains Northwardly a few miles - low ridges southwardly - and at the distance of about twenty miles west mountains appearing detached - This would be a difficult Country to travel through at any other time than when the snow was melting as it would be entirely destitute of water is a poor grass country Entirly a bed of sand The only fuel small sage.-

Wednesday 31^st traveled about 12 miles West and Encamped on high sand flat in the same valley in which we camped yesterday - the water made by the melting of the snow runs but a short distance and makes numerous ponds all over this country such is its situation that it is impossible to ascertain its decent. mountains on the north in detached heaps b^g E & W about 20 miles and from all appearances a regular chain b^g N & south about 20 miles now visible on the south or S W. this country is almost destitute of grass the only food for horses wild sage & salt weed which they will not Eat untill they are almost in a State of Starvation from the want of food one of mine were left to day and many so feeble that it is with difficulty they can be got along -

Thursday Apl. 1^st we traveled 6 miles west over low flat ground the same valley that we have been in for some days mountains 15 or 20 miles bS N W and southwardly a beautifull vally about 40 miles wide b^g S W & N E the decent W W [sic] which I suppose Empty its waters in the ones for which I am in serch-

Friday 2^nd Apl. traveled W 10 miles over sand hills and on the borders of ponds made by the melting of snow

Saturday 3^rd.traveled about 12 miles West along the border of a ridge of sand which appears to continue for many miles b^g E &W - 2 or 3 miles wide

Sunday 4^th having found yesterday some grass we moved our camp to day about one mile N where we remained the day for the benefit of our horses - A detached mountain bS W. about 10 miles where I went [interlined: the 5th] for the purpose of taking a view of the adjacint country - while there was discovered & followed by a party of (as I suppose) snake Indians who stole from me 17) Seventeen of my best horses

[Written in margin: remained at this camp 2 days].

monday 6^th followed the trail of the Indians about 8 miles West recovered two of the horses which had been so severly traveled as not to be able to proceed farther. The Indians change their course northwardly.

Tuesday 7^th proceed^d one mile & Encamped followed the Indian trail over high hills in the direction of a mountain clothed with pine b^g N 20 or 30 miles - having ascertaind from an arrow found an other appearances that the rogues are Snake Indians returned to camp and prepared to follow them tomorrow

Wednesday 8^th Sent 9 men in persuit of the Indians and proceeded with the ballance N about 8 miles over a verry hilley country mountains b^g N about 20 miles distant and others S W and W about 50 miles -

Thursday 9^th traveled about 3 miles down a ravine N found some grass for the horses. & Encamped Mr. Ham and myself continued down the ravine several miles to Explore the country - but could not ascertain any thing satisfactory relative to the waters of the Shetkedee - we returned to camp late in the afternoon

Friday 10^th last night two of my horses were Stolen by Indians they were however so indeferent That I did not attempt to recover them we proceeded West down a small creek about 6 miles & Encamped where we had tolerable good grass for the horses-

Saturday 11^th descended the creek as mentioned West [i.e., Northwest] about 5 miles & Encamped the country west becomes more Even mountains Northwardly b^g S E & N W and Westwardly N E & S W distant about 10 miles on the north & 20 [30?] on the West I have neglected to note the weather - for some days - the 1, 2 3, 4, 5, & 6th of this month was cold & disagreeable Snow more or less Each day - Snow on the 9th Clear & pleasant this day-

Sunday 12^th Clear & cold & traveled North toward a high rugged mountain at 3 miles crossed Creek Running W - at the distance of 7 miles camped on a Creek running S W - 20 feet wide where camped the country high, broken & sandy

monday 13 decended the creek one mile S W and Encamped - Explored the country N to the mountain discovered a Creek on which are willows & some old beaver sign

Tuesday 14^th Clear & cool - West 6 miles over a high flat Country Sandy Soil. wind river - mountain as discovered to day by the return of the men who went in persuit of the horses bS N W & S E, distant about 15 miles - camped on a Small creek on which is willows discoverd to day a Creek on which is large timber b^g N & S The men who went after the horses followed them to Sweet water & found that they had been taken by a party of Crows, who finally made their Escape with Them -

Wednesday 1^st Crossed to the timbered Creek S W about 6 miles decended the same 2 miles & encamped on it Cold disagreeable day the snow fell about 9 inches deep - high sandy country.

Thursday 16^thThe snow continues with high winds we remain at this camp to day in consequence of the weather

Friday 17^th proceeded down the creek south 8 miles at 4 miles distant another creek formed a junction with this cold snowy day -

Saturday 18^th It continued to snow the wind to blow and the weather verry cold. We traveled S W about 8 miles and camped on the Creek we left in the morning & it had joined another - of considerable size and is well timbered with cotton wood bS W. The country has become more hilly and much washed in deep holes The snow discontinued later in the afternoon

Sunday 19^th We left the creek which turned South traveled west 6 miles over a broken sandy country & came to the Shetkadee which bS S.E. & N W runs S E - is one hundred yards wide 4 to five feet deep with a rappid current - mountains bS N & westerly about 15 or 20 miles - And a range of mountains at a great distance say 40 or 50 miles southwardly - pleasant weather - game scarce Some fresh sign of beaver on this river and much old sign - timbered with long leaf cotton wood & small willow -

Monday 20^th Continue at this camp for the purpose of making canoes to transport the packs down the river - Sent out 9 hunters to procure skins for the boats Late in the afternoon four of them returned without seeing [deleted: or falling] any Buffalloe - The men are and have been fer the last two days without any Thing to eat & they are becoming quite uneasy under the privation Some of the hunters brought in a horse which he found runing at large on the river bottoms - pleasant weather -

Tuesday 21^st the 5 men sent to procure Skins arrived early this morning with six. with which we proceeded to make a boat. they also brought meat. the day is fine and our work advances rapidly -

Wednesday 22^nd our boat 16 by 7 feet was finished this morning at 9 O^ck A M, arrangements made for starting to make our hunt The following are the directions given to M^rs. Ham & Clyman who conduct Each a party, one of six; The other of five men - To wit That I will transport the goods and extra baggage down the river [deleted: at least 40] to some conspicuous point not less than 40 or 50 miles from this place should the rivr not pass will Make choice of the Entrance of some River that may Enter on the West side of the Shetskedee for a deposite should there be any such River, should the mountains through wich the river first passes be a less distance than we immagine, the deposit will be made on or near the river [interlined: a short distance] above the mountain at some suitable place - The place of deposite as aforesaid, will be The place of randavoze for all our parties on or before the 10th July next & that the place may be known - Trees will be pealed standing the most conspicuous near the junction of the rivers [deleted: If at the mouth of a river it] or above the mountain as the case may be-. Should such a point be without timber I will raise a mound of Earth five feet high or Set up rocks the top of which will be made red with vermillion thirty feet distant from the same - and one foot below the serface of the earth a northwst direction will be deposited a letter communicating to the parties any thing that I may deem necessary - M^rs C. & H will Each at a proper time apoint Each a man of their party to take charge of their business should by axident any thing occur to make it necessary.- The men so appointed will be informed of my arrangements, will, with their party proceed accordingly in the most carefull & best manner for my intrst - copies of the foregoing directions were delivered to Messrs Ham Cly. & Fitzpatrick, our boat launched and at 3 ock P. M The parties Started. Clyman with six men to the sources of the Shetskadee Ham [with seven men] - Westerly to a mountanous country That lay in that direction Fitzpatrick with 6 men southwardly & myself with 7 men Embarked on board the boat with all my goods and the extra baggage of the men, we decended the River a short distance and Encamped -

Thursday 23^rd our boat answers the desired purpose greatly beyond my expectation it is Easily navigated & Carries as much again as I expected we decended the River to day about 3 [sic] miles 10 miles of which The river ran E. S. E. to a small Creek 30 yds wide 20 S E - high broken country on Each side the bodirs of the river Wooded with Cotton wood & willow

Friday 24^th finding the boat inconvenient for hunting and from The bulk of the cargo The men much confined, I stoped to day Killed four buffaloe and made another boat while so Engaged Fitzpatrck & his party arrived supplied themselves with meat and they proceeded on down the river dark, cool, windy day

Saturday 25^th we finished and launched our canoe at 9 Ock this morning and proceeded down the river 12 miles its general direction S E but verry croked - high broken country on Each side the bottoms have less timber on them & are becoming smaller - yesterday while attempting to get ahead of a Wounded buffaloe I fell from the side of a clift and brused my side which gives me to day some pain - clear pleasant day -

Sunday 26^th I never suffered from bodily pain as much as the last night and until 9 Ock this morning from the bruise I recd - in consequence of my indisposition we did not Start this morning until 11 O^ck we decended the river about 20 miles at six miles distant a small creek about 30 feet wide Entered on the E side b^g E & W this creek I called City creek from the appearance of the Country about its Junction - from this point the river [interlined: its general course] runs W. S W to this days Encampment meandering through mountains which confine it on both sides the bottoms are verry small on which there is but little timber - Clear pleasant day -

Monday 27^th South 2 miles 55 W 65 1 to a handsome river 40 yds wide rapid current Entering on the W side N W & S E here the mountains become much lower and indeed for some distance down the river do not deserve the name of mountains - no large groth of timber on the bottoms which are verry small at 2 miles below the tributary stream we Encamped for the night Considerable appearance of Beaver - Set 18 traps

Thursday 28^th we did not travel to day in consequence of my indisposition 4 beaver were taken last night - Sent 2 men with traps down the river on the West side - Cloudy, windy unpleasant day

Wednesday 29^th decended the river two miles where Fitzpatck & party were Encamped directed them to Encline towards the mountain b^g Southwardly where in all probability he would find a small river running along the mountain continued down the river south about 6 miles & Encamped where I had a part of my property cashed and where my indisposition caused me to remain two days - warm pleasant day -

Deposited in cash a above Randavouze creek

Thursday 30 fine pleasant day but was so sick as not to be able to Enjoy it

Friday May 1^st 1825. late in the afternoon the cashed was compleated and my health much better we continued our voyge down the river south about four miles & Encamped pleasant weather - the river bottoms have become much larger and covered with green grass but verry little large timber -

Saturday 2^nd May proceeded down the river about 6 miles and & Encamped in a beautiful bottom where I made sigh for the different parties to Randavouze, considerable beaver sign - Caught 7 beaver - I left 3 men to set traps the following night - pleasant weather - , the river is uncomonly crooked but its general course about south -

Sunday 3^rd decended the river - about 4 miles & Encamped at the Entrance of a [s]mall creek on the West Side which bs. E & W its 60 feet wide, decends (as I expected when directing Fitzpatrck), along the foot of a high snow covered mountain through which the principal river passes commencing at This place - there is much beaver sign on the small river, beautefull bottoms on which is a considerable small willow (and some distance above) large timber - finding this a much more suitable place for a Randavouze I have made marks indicative of my intention to Randavouze here & in consequence of which have given the [interlined: creek the] name of Randavouze Creek The Mountains around present a variety of senery alltogether exceedingly gloomy they are mostly covered with a verry small groth of pine, some of them in ma[n]y places appear to be Entire rock & which has undergone severe fire the gap through which the river Enters particularly which appears hardly large Enough to contain the Water - Windy unpleasant weather

Monday 4^th Continue here to day for the purpose of exploreing the small river and setting some traps thereon for Beaver - last night was exceedingly stormy with some rain & snow -

Tuesday 5^th We proceeded down the river which is closely confined between two verry high mountains, about ten miles the river is verry crooked its general course to day S S E, at 7 miles Entered a small creek on the West side about thirty feet wide b^g E & W. rappid current bottoms were there with willow burch box Elders &c and from all appearances there are many beaver on its head - These mountains present a most gloomy scene They are Entire rock generally of a redish appearance, they rise to the hight of from 2 to 4000 feet out of their Crevices grows a Species of dwarf pine & Ceder the only timber upon them, they are on the one side or other of the river perpendicular or projecting over - on the othur side so steep & rugged as to prevent the passage of a man over them - the rocks that fall in the river from the walls of the mountan make the passage in some places dangerous - windy unpleasant weather

[Compass Courses - May 5]

Randevouze  Red mou[ntain?]
W 1/2     W 3/4
S 1/2          S 1/2
E 3/4          S E 1
S E 1/2   S W 1/2 to creek b

g
 E & W -
S W 3/4        S 1/2
E 1 1/2   camp 

                                      

Wednesday 6^th continud our voyge at 1 /2 miles Enters a small creek on the W side the river becomes more confined by the Mountains and the obstructions by rocks in the passage so great as almost to prevent our passage down it - at ten miles there is a fall of 10 or 15 feet in the distance of 150 feet caused by the mountains given away and throughing rock from 20 to 40 feet in diameter Entirely across the river, it is not passable for boats of any description here we performed a portage of 100 yards, reloaded our canoes and proceeded down the river about 2 miles farther & Encamped The afternoon was cold & stormy considerable snow during the night -

[Compass Courses - May 6]

E 3   1/2 mile to creek W 3/4
ENE 1/2                 S 1/2
North                   E 1
S E 1/2                 S E 1/2
E 1/2                   E 1 1/2 falls 1/2
NE 1/2                  S E 3/4 camp & creek 
E 1 1/2

Thursday 7^th Cold Stormy Snowy morning we decended the river to day about 25 miles its general course S E The mountain continued verry high & rugged until the last five miles when they then became much lower - the channel of the river is yet confined no low ground or timber we passed several places where it was Extremely dangerous but recd. no Injury except shiping considerable quantities of water & wetting our baggage An Indian road passes along the north bank of the river from [interlined: the appearance of] an Encampment we supposed a party of 100 or more has passed along the road about a month since

[Compass Courses - May 7]

S E 1/2                E 1/2
S 1/2                  S 1/2
S E 1/2                E 3 1/2  Indian road
S S E 1/2              S 1 1/2
S 3/4                  S 3/4
E 1/2                  W 1/2
E S E 3/4              S E 1/2
S 1/2                  E 1/2
E 2 -                  S 1/2
S E 3/4                E 1/2
E 1/2                  S E 1/2
S 1/2                  S 1 -
E 1/2                  S E 1/2 mile
S E 1/2                S 1  -
E 1/2                  E 2 - East
S E 1/2                S 1/2-
                       S W 1 -  

Friday 8^th 3 miles Enters a verry small branch on the N side there the mountains withdraw to the distance of an half mile from the river and the bottoms Enlarge in which are small Willows - we decended the river about ten miles E S E & camped on the E bank -

Friday 8^th [sic] proceeded down the river about 8 miles south, some large [deleted: timber] cotton wood of the sweet kind blustering weather with some snow & rain -

May 9^th at 3 miles the river enters a third [second] mountain [Lodore Canyon] the bottom above which is an Encampment where some thousands of Indians wintered. Their camps were principally in the thick willows & covered with the bark of cedar oposite & Just below the Encampment on the E side of the river above the mountain Enters a small creek 20 [25?] feet wide E & W: has on it willows and some large timber - did not examine it for Beaver - The Channel of the river is more confined by this than the mountain above the walls of the mountain are perpendicular on Each side of the river and from three to 4000 feet high of a reddish colour the channel [interlined: of the river] is much obstructed by rocks which make it exceedingly dangerous to decend in the distance of six miles from the Entrance I had to perform two portages one of 50 the other 250 yards - we Encamped after making about 12 miles S S W - Raw [? wind ?] unpleasant weather

May 10^th mended our canoes which had recd considerable injury yesterday and proceeded down the river - at the distance of 2 miles the river becam so verry bad that we were unable to proceed with our canoes loaded we discharged them and performed a portage of half mile which in consequence of the roughness of the side of the mountain along which we were obliged to pass made it extremely difficult and tedious - these may be well called the Rocky mountains for there is nothing but mountains of rocks to be seen partially covered with a dwarf groth of cedar & pines - violent wind with snow & rain

May 11^th The portage of yesterday consumed the whole [interlined: of that] day a short distance below this passage is an other of a quarter of a mile the road for the [deleted: men] porters is much more difficult than that of yesterday - we decended the river [interlined: to day] about 4 miles S W and have 5 portages to perform - at many of these places the river is not more than forty or 50 yards wide Roling over rocks with [deleted: tremendous] [interlined: great] violence some of my men are the most skilfull of watermen or I could not have proceeded at all Even with the Empty canoes we are now destitute of provisions and know not when we shall be able to get where we can supply ourselves -

Tuesday 12^th may Our boats recd considerable injury yesterday in passing over rocks. they had this morning to undergo some repares which was completed by 11 Ock when we continued our voyge - we did not proceed more than a mile before we had to perform a portage of 150 yds. which were followed by two others in the distance of two miles the last was the most difficult we have had in the distance of about 300 yards the fall is at least 50 feet our boats as well as cargo had to be taken over the rocks out of the water about 100 yards then let down with ropes to the [deleted: lower end of] foot of the fall this portage had to be performed along the side of a mountain wher it was almost impossible for a man to pass without any burthen. This days progress 3 miles was S W - cool clear weather -

Wednesday 13^th. may We reloaded our canoes and decended the river about 8 miles where another River Enters on the south side bg. E & W nearly or quite as large as The one of our decension we performed no portages to day but there are Several dangerous Rapids from our camp [deleted: to the entrance of the] Junction of these rivers here is a remarkable bend in the river a point of the mountain runs for a mile not wider than 50 or 100 yd N & S and the river runs immediately round it in the bend on the south side Enters a small creek N & S the mountain at this point changes Colour to a light sand or nankeen colour and gradually declines there are some small [?] bottoms and some sign of beaver - I call This the river Entering on The south side Mary's River on which is some sign of beaver it no dout heads in the N. E. and has many beaver on it - at the second bend to the left is a verry considerable fall The river is remarkably crooked rapid and dangerous general course from the Junction of the rivers S W - we made this day about 25 miles and encamped on the N Bank. where the mountain with draws on that side from the river to the distance of an half mile, there are some Islands and Small bottoms well timbered with thrifty cotton wood of the sweet kind - here is the first fresh buffalloe sign we have seen for some days indeed since we Entered the 2nd mountain great abundance of Elk we saw last night about 100 Buffalloe but could not kill any, they having got the wind of us, we were so Exosted with the fatiegue of portages and the tediousness of our progress that we crossed many dangerous places [deleted: yesterday] This day without examining them previously and others when in the draft there was no possibility of landing - In passing of the most of them we shiped considerable water - but met with no serious injury - fine pleasant day - my men in fine spirits although nothing to Eat -

May 14^th Thursday we proceeded Early for the purpose of getting something to Eat which we accomplished after going about 3 miles - I killed a Buffalo [deleted: in consequence of the many dangerous rapids our progress this day was not more than 6 or 7 miles S W the river is very crooked and the mountains continue verry high and Steep we had one portage to perform of about 100 yds where we Encamped for the night. Clear pleasant weather - ] at 4 miles mountains on Each side of the river and the river again confined to a verry narrow Channel here commences a consider[able] Fall which has continued about six miles where we Encamped general course of the River S W - after we had proceeded on these falls about four miles They became more dangerous, and we with difficulty Effected a landing for the purpose of examining them lower down - I with one man performed that duty as far as the mountain would permit - although The fall continued and the waves were verry high I concluded to proceed with the boats believing that should the river become impassable or more dangerous, that we could discover it, and land the boats - but after proceeding about one and a half mil[e]s we discovered at the distance of about 4 or 6oo yards by the motion of the water &c a verry [deleted: considerable] great & dangerous fall and attempt was immediately made to land the large boat (the small one being in the rear a considerable distance and had fortunate[ly] capsised which had detained here untill the information relative to this fall was communicated to the men) but we were already in the draft to land was imposible I discovered from the appearance of the rocks that our only way [interlined: & that doubtfull] to avoid immedeate destruction was to lay the boat straight with the current and pass in the middle of the river I directed the stearsman accordingly my orders were obeyed & the men performed their duty handsomely, but soon after Entering the heavy billows our boat filled with water but did not sink she was in that situation th[r]own against a rock at or near the foot of the falls, and near a large Eddy, to which by the rock she was inclined and Entered, two of the most active men then leaped in the water took the cables and towed her to land Just as from all appearance she was about making her exit and me with her for I cannot swim & my only hope was that the boat would not sink - the cargo recd great injury some articles Entirely lost & others greatly damaged fortunately I had my powder so secured with bear skins that it was but little injured

[Compass Courses]
May 14^th

NW 1/2                   W 1/2
W 1/4                    S W 3/4 mountans on both sides
S 1/2                    S1 -
S E 2 mile 2 - Buffaloe  S W 1 -
E 1/2                    W 1/2
S 3/4                    S W 1/4 fall where we filled 

we were detained there drying the cargo untill [interlined: the afternoon of] Friday the 15th when we again proceeded the falls continued but we had no alternative but to decend & with out a knowledge of what was at any considerable distance before us for the walls of the mountain Extended to the edge of the water and them impassable in the distance of three miles we passed several dangerous places where we shiped considerable water and at about 6 miles (when we Encamped for the night. we had a short portage of about 100 yds to perform - fine pleasant weather the mountains declines -

[Compass Courses]
May 15

W 1/2             S W  1 -
S W 1/2           W 1 1/2 portage 100 yds 
W 1 -

Saturday 16^th. may - Embarked & proceeded Early the river rapid but not at all dangerous at 3 miles the mountains withdraw from Each side of the river and bottoms of considerable size Well timbered. the river is remarkable crooked general course S W we decended this day about ten miles and Encamped at the Entrance of a bold Stream on the N. Side N W & S E about 40 feet wide its bottoms are timbered with small willow and some large Cotton wood about 3 miles above this Creek Enters another of about [deleted: Equal] [interlined: the same] Size and appearance & on the oposite side about half way between thes two Enters anothr [deleted: on the] South side [deleted: 5 W] N W & S E. - high hills on the south and mountains covered with snow at the distance of 2 or 3 miles on the N -

[Compass Courses]
May 16^th

W 1/4                      N 1 1/2
S1/2                       N W 1 1/2
S 

E 1  - mountain declines W 1/2
S 1 1/2                    S W 1 1/2 river N [interlined: Side] 40 yds
S W 1 - [properly: S E]        wide  bg  N & S
W 1 -                      S S W [properly: 55 E]
N W 1                      1 - river S side 50 yds bg 
N W & S E
W 2 [properly: S]          S 1 1/2
N W 1                      S W 3 - 

                                      

Sunday 17^th - we remain at the Entrance of the Creek to day to procure meat having understood from two Frenchmen who we met last night that the country below for a great distance is Entirely destitute of game, These men with 20 or 30 others crossed the Country from Toues 4 of whom decended the river in a canoe but finding it so verry dangerous and destitute of game returnd they give a lamentable account of their voyge - they had to live on the skins of beaver which they had [deleted: with them] caught in this neighbourhood. They also inform me that the Indians generally in this country are [deleted: a] hostile desposed and have killed & robed [deleted: a] 15 or 20 men who were from the neighbourhood of St Louis having procured sufficient meat we on [deleted: the]

monday 18^th decended the river about 2 miles where we made a cache and deposited the greater part of my goods - the bottoms are well timbered with Sweet cotton wood & small willow [deleted: the bottoms] they afford good wintering grounds -
[Compass Course]

18

th May

W 2  -  [properly: 1 S, 2 W]

                                      

Cash N^o. 2

from The cash we decended the river [interlined: on the 19th] about ten miles to the entrance of a smaller river on the N. bank thirty feet wide b^g N W & S E, great appearance of Buffalloe & Elk - pleasant weather general course of the river to day West but verry crooked one bend of six miles around is not more than 2-yd. across -

[Compass Courses]
May 19^th

West 1  -  cache  S W 1
W N W 2-          W 1
N W 1             W N W 1
S 3/4             N W 1
S E 1-            N 

May 20^th Wednesday We descended the river to day about 12 miles general course S W but verry crooked - The bottoms have become large as well as The river, and are Well timbered with Sweet cotton wood The mountains are at the distan[c]e of about 5 miles on Each side the river to which there is a high broken country. [deleted: at and a short distance above] The Cotton wood trees are in these bottoms sufficiently large for canoes, or perogues great appearance of game but none of consequence immediately on the river - This river over flows its bottoms from the place of my Embarcation to this - [deleted: place] - pleasant weather -

[Compass Courses]

S 2               S E 1
W 2 1/2           S W 1/2 Beautifull country
S W 1/2           W 1  -
S 2 -             N W 2 1/2 well timbered on both sides river -
W 2               W 1
S 1               S W 2 

Thursday 21 proceeded about 4 miles to the Entrance of a River about 30 y wide on the north side the Indian name of this River is Tewinty, B^g N & S - about two miles farther to the wintering place of M^ess. Provo &c There found a paper directing his hunters who were in the mountains trapping to decend the river 6 miles where they would find Mr. La clare with articles for them. I consequently decended to that place but unfortunately found that they had left their camp - in pursuit of game as there is none in this neighbourhood - having reason to believe that they would not return sooner than 6 or 8 days, I cached [deleted: my] the cargo of my Canoes and [interlined: get 12 miles - ] on Friday May 22nd proceeded down the river in a wood canoe with three of my men & sent the other 3 to procure game by our return - my object is to find Indians of whom I can procure horses and ascertain the true situation of the country described as so verry mountanous and barren - notwithstanding the the unfavourable account given of the Country we had to Enter it without provisions - warm day S W. 6 miles

Saturday 23^rd. last Evening one of the men killed a goose which boiled gave us a good supper we decended to day about 12 miles find the Country a barren heap of rocky mountains - could not kill any thing to Eat found a fresh Indian trail and appearance as if they had Camped & hunted in this Neighbourhood for some days

Sunday 24^th may followed some of the Indian roads on which they have Just passed and ascertained that a party were ascending the river I directed the men to return with the Canoe as expediceously as possible - and I followed the hillier [?Indian ?] road, but finding it to pass over such rugged ground was compeled to leave it and select the best way to travel to the place where I had appointed to meet the 3 men sent in persuit of game - every diligence were used by all to procure game without success. we were again this day without any thing to eat

Monday 25^th. may. left camp Early with a view of reaching our rendavoze to day two men by land and two by water, determin[ed] to shoot beasts or birds of any kind for food if in our power to do so with all our Exertions nothing was killed - late in the afternoon discovered The trail of foot and horsemen who had but a few hours passed and from all appearances had been in serch of me. followed the trail till night without finding the people.

next morning [interlined: Tuesday 26^th] about 10 ock [sic] met with one of the party a Snake Indian he met me with great familiarity and Ease as much so as if he had been accustomed to being with white men all his life calling aloud American, I answered in the affirmative he then advanced and extended his hand, and by signs asked many questions to wit how many men were with me. where they were and [deleted: what was] [interlined: the] object of our persuit in this country all of which I gave him to understand by signs - after passing about an hour with me during which time I made Enquiries relative to The Country Westwardly, his knowledge of any white men in the Country &c &c he departed with a view notifying a band of his nation to which he belonged and who were not more than a days march from my camp of my situation, and to Endeavour to induce them to bring and sell me 7 horses of which I informed him I was in want

The Next day Wednesday May 27^th I arrived at the place appointed to meet the men sent to kill Buffaloe, as well as The band of Indians & late in the afternoon two Indians arrived to inform me that in consequence of the mountanous situation of the Country that the Lodges would not arrive sooner than three days; and requested that I would wait their arrival that they would supply me with 6 horses, I consented to wait, the Indians remained until the next morning - [interlined: Thursday 28^th] and then started to assist & hurry their [deleted: band] tribe [?] during the last two days we have lived on fish we caught with hooks & lines we find them of an excellent kind of a different Speeces to any that I ever before have seen similar in appearance to our pike They have but few scales or bones, those of which we caught were from one to two feet long, the[y] appared quite a curiosity to the Indians - I shewed them how they were caught & gave Each one a hook & line with which they were much pleased - The country below so far as I decended is an Entirely mountains of rock destitute of timber (Except [interlined: in places] on the border of the river) grass or game, although I was notified that game could not be had in it I expected to find as I had Every day in decending the river found [?] geese sufficient for our subsistance, but to my supprise and regret not one was to be seen - The weather is becoming warm and the musketoes troublesome, of the latter - we may expect (from their Early appearance) an abundant supply this summer -

Names of Animals &[c] in Ute Language

Saturday the 30^th. may I proceeded to the camp of Frenchmen from whom I purchased three horses - and on Sunday the 1st June I started up the river Euwinty about 24 [i.e., 14?] miles & Encamped for the night where I wated the arrival of one of the french men who proposed to purchase some of the good I had with me. -

June 1^st & 2^nd was Consumed in preperations for my Journey. I purchased 3 horses more making 5 altogether and on

Tuesday June 3^rd. Set out for the river Columbia after traveling about ten miles Encamped for the Night as one of my horses appeared verry sick -

The next morning Wednesday June 4^th Started Early - and as we were without meat Sent a hunter forward to hunt traveled about 12 miles & Encamped - the hunter killed an Elk & I wounded another but they being on the opposite of the river neither could be had - our course these two day was W N W the river bottoms are wooded with Willow & Cotton wood the River is about 150 yds Wide rapped current [deleted: but] the navigation Clear of obstructions

June 5^th Sent two men forward to hunt - proceeded about Eight miles [interlined: West] & Encamped no game was killed to day, my party begins to feel severly the want of food

Friday June 6^th At 3 miles the river forks the differences in the see of the branc[h]es cannot be distinguished, I ascended the south branch - (I neglected to note two forks on the N Side one Enter at the distance of 12 miles from the mouth the other about 20 miles) The nothern branch b^g N. E. & S. W the other west about a mile thence north 3 miles west 2 miles where an Indian path ascends a ravine or low place & which we persued - the path branc[h]es at an Encampment we followed the left path about 4 miles when it disappeared we then struck across & got in the one more south [i.e., north?] after traveling about 2 miles Encamped in the pine hIlls where we found some water in the head of a hollow This Country continues almost entirly destitute of game we have not been able to kill any thing the ravine above mentioned b^g E & W.

Saturday June 7^th Enclined to the north to strike a trail that goes direct to the lake on the head waters of the Columbia - after traveling 6 miles met Mr. Provo and party consisting of 12 men who informed me that Mr. Weber had wintered on the south Waters of the Columbia river & had heard of my being in the Country that he had gone over to green river in serch of me - having made an arrangement with Mr Provo for the transportation of my goods that were Cashed on green river to the Waters of the Columbia returned to the river we left yesterday morning and sent a man with them to raise the cache myself and party remained on this river until his return.

June 8,9 10 11^th 12^th 13 and until the 14^th 2 O'ck was consumed wating the return of Mr. Provo and Endeavouring to kill meat sufficient to last us across the mountains but all our exertions to kill any game proved in vain during the time we caught 3 beaver - & fifteen or twenty fish on the arrival of Mr. Provo the 14^th prerperations were made for our departure Early the next morning - Mr. Provo brought all our goods and the next morning 15th. we Set out Early traveled about twenty miles [interlined: W] and Encamped on a small branch of the Euwinty, mountanous country on both sides of our rout - to day two hunters killed Each an Antelope -

next morning June 16^th we started Early and traveled 12 miles [interlined: W] to the river Euwinty which here bears N & S thence up the same about Eight miles & Encamped near the head of the river - the Mountain dividing the waters of the Lake River & Green Rivers Runs paralel with the river for these last Eight miles distant about 2 miles therefrom

June 17^th [deleted: The sources of this river] we traveled over a beautifull fertile valley last Evening through which runs a great number of small streams of [interlined: spring] water This morning we crossed the mountain b^g S W & N E and camped on a branch of the lake river b^g E & W after making about 15 miles. The mountain is steep and difficult to ascend covered with quaking asp, Cedar, pine, &c &c our course to day was north.

the next morning June 18^th we descended the small river on which we camped about 3 miles thence crossed [northwardly] to another of the same about 2 miles thence across a mountan & to a third river of considerable magnitude - [interlined: about Eight miles] not more than 100 feet wide but deep & verry rappid & difficult to cross this river b^g E & W - its vallie fertile, thickly wooded with willow and some large timber, has on it a considerable number of beaver - we saw on the valley seven bear - with which I had like to of got in difficulty

we Encamped on the bank of the River & Early next morning June 19 crossed a beautiful fertile vally about six miles to small river about 60 feet wide deep & rappid current through this valley (as the one on the opposite side of the mountan) runs many beautiful spring branches - all those rivers run into the lake which is about 30 miles W of this rout our course yesterday & to day was North - we decended the river about 6 miles & Encamped on its bank near an Encampment of Eutaw Indians,

the next morning June 20^th we continued to decend the river, at 8 miles distant Enters a small stream on the E side b^g S E & N W. where we Encamped for dinner, then 3 miles farther down this river & Encamped for the night - our course to day was N W - I killed a mountain sheep & one Antelope. Polite a yellow man, killed an antelope,

finding that Johnson Guardner - & party [deleted: had] of whom we are now in serch had ascended the smalle river where we dined we on the 21 June returned and followed their trail, and after traveling about 8 miles East Encamped on the bank of the Creek - the mountans around us to day are not as lofty & rugged as we have had for many days - Buffalow have been here a few days past in great numbers but [deleted: from the Information of] they are traveling East to a mountain dividing these & the Green River waters -

we remain at this Encampment to day June 22^nd to recruit some horses. Mr. Provo who went to the lake to trade with the Euteaw Indians returned last Evening

Early next morning June 23^rd we continued up the Creek E N E and after traveling about 8 miles we Encamped for the night The hills are beautifully ornamented with grass and flowers - the former Resembling timothy of the most luxurant groth - the land both in the vallys & Hills are fertile a verry high & rugged mountain covered with Snow b^g N E & S W, is about 10 miles south of This Encampment and in all probability is the mountain dividing the waters of [interlined: The] Lake river & Green river -

June 24 ascended the Creek on which we Encamped about 4 miles N E Thence Crossed the country N N E to a River running N - about 100 feet wide rappid current - the valley of which is about two miles wide, the borders of this river clothed with willow bitter cotton wood & Cedar - The Country over which we travelled to day is hilly but not so as to make it difficult to travel over - the grass is very fine and the soil generally rich - a mountain covered with snow b^g N E & S W is about 10 miles distant South The weather is cold - about such as we have in the climate of St Louis the latter part of October - last night as well as several nights [deleted: before] preceeding Ice made in buckets of water in our Encampment an half inch Thick Encamped on this River for the night

Wednesday June 25^th descended the river [deleted: about Eight miles] E N E 6 miles & N W 2 miles and Encamped for the night. the river here [deleted: b^g] [interlined: runs] N W [deleted: and] it is about 40 yds wide, deep & rappid

The next morning Thursday June 26 we crossed the Creek and traveled E N E 6 miles to the ridge dividing the waters of green & Lake rivers thence E down a ravine about 10 miles where we found some water - and Encamped - the country here (and forward of us) has a dry white appearance - high hills and but little food for horses - great numbers of buffaloe have lately been through these hills but are now scarce they have traveled from the lake river over to green river -

Friday June 27^th. we continued down the ravine N E about Eight miles where it turned E - has running water in it & small willows on its banks - at [?] 3 miles we Encamped on the bank of the Creek -

From: The Ashley-Smith explorations and the discovery of a central route to the Pacific, 1822-1829, with the original journals, by Harrison Clifford Dale, Cleveland, The Arthur H. Clark company, 1918.

Letter from William H. Ashley to Gen. Henry Atkinson

DEAR SIR, Yours of the 23 November is at hand, and in compliance with the request therein contained, I herewith enclose you a sketch of the country over which I passed on my late tour across the Rocky mountains.

The following remarks relating to my journey have been cursorily put together, but as they afford some better information as to the practicability and means of traversing that region, at the season of the year presenting the greatest privations, they may not be uninteresting to you.

I left Fort Atkinson on the 3rd November, 1824.

On the afternoon of the fifth, I overtook my party of mountaineers (twenty-five in number), who had in charge fifty pack horses, a wagon and teams, etc. On the 6th we had advanced within miles of the villages of the Grand Pawney's, when it commenced snowing, and continued with but little intermission until the morning of the 8th. During this time my men and horses were suffering for the want of food, which, combined with the severity of the weather, presented rather a gloomy prospect. I had left Fort Atkinson under a belief that I could procure a sufficient supply of provisions at the Pawney villages to subsist my men until we could reach a point affording a sufficiency of game; but in this I was disappointed, as I learned by sending to the villages, that they were entirely deserted, the Indians having, according to their annual custom, departed some two or three weeks previous for their wintering ground. As the vicinity of those villages afforded little or no game, my only alternative was to subsist my men on horse meat, and my horses on cottonwood bark, the ground being at this time covered with snow about two feet deep. In this situation we continued for about the space of two weeks, during which time we made frequent attempts to advance and reach a point of relief, but, owing to the intense cold and violence of the winds, blowing the snow in every direction, we had only succeeded in advancing some ten or twelve miles, and on the 22nd of the same month we found ourselves encamped on the Loup fork of the river Platt within three miles of the Pawney towns. Cold and hunger had by this time killed several of my horses, and many others were much reduced from the same cause. On the day last named we crossed the country southwardly about fifteen miles to the main fork of the Platt, where we were so fortunate as to find rushes and game in abundance, whence we set out on the 24th and advanced up the Platt as expeditiously as the nature of things under such circumstances would admit. After ascending the river about one hundred miles, we reached Plumb point on the 3d December, where we found the encampment of the Grand Pawney Indians, who had reached that point (their usual crossing place) on their route to the wintering ground on the Arkansas river.

At two or three of my encampments previous to arriving at Plumb point, I was visited by small parties of young warriors, who were exceedingly troublesome to my party and committed several thefts before leaving us, but on my arrival at the encampment, the chiefs and principal men expressed much friendship and manifested the same by compelling the thieves to return the articles stolen from me. From our encampment of the 24th to this place our hunters supplied us plentifully with provisions, and the islands and valleys of the Platt furnished a bountiful supply of rushes and firewood, but I was here informed by the Indians that until I reached the vicinity the mountains, I should meet with but one place (the forks of the Platt) where a plentiful supply of fuel could be had, and but little food of any description for our horses. They urged me to take up winter quarters at the forks of the Platt, stating that if I attempted to advance further until spring, I would endanger the lives of my whole party.

The weather now was extremely cold, accompanied with frequent light snows. We advanced about eight miles further up the river, where we fell in with the tribe of Loup Pawneys and travelled in company with them to the forks of the Platt (their usual wintering place) where we arrived on the 12th day of December, and had so far found the Indians' information in relation to fuel and horse food to be correct. At this time my men had undergone an intense suffering from the inclemency of the weather, which also bore so severely on the horses as to cause the death of many of them. This, together with a desire to purchase a few horses from the Loups and to prepare my party for the privations which we had reason to anticipate in travelling the next two hundred miles (described as being almost wholly destitute of wood), induced me to remain at the forks until the 23d December, the greater part of which time, we were favoured with fine weather, and, notwithstanding the uplands were still covered with from eighteen to twenty-four inches of snow, the valleys were generally bare and afforded a good range for my horses, furnishing plenty of dry grass and some small rushes, from the use of which they daily increased in strength and spirits.

The day after our arrival at the forks, the chiefs and principal men of the Loups assembled in council for the purpose of learning my wants, and to devise means to supply them. I made known them that I wished to procure twenty-five horses and a few buffalo robes, and to give my men an opportunity of providing more amply for the further prosecution of the journey, I requested that we might be furnished with meat to subsist upon while we remained with them, and promised that a liberal remuneration should be made for any services they might render me. After their deliberations were closed, they came to this conclusion: that, notwithstanding they had been overtaken by unusually severe weather before reaching their wintering ground, by which they had lost a great number of horses, they would comply with my requisition in regard to horses and other necessaries as far as their means would admit. Several speeches were made by the chiefs during the council, all expressive in the highest degree of their friendly disposition towards our government, and their conduct in every particular manifested the sincerity of their declarations.

On the 23d December, having completed the purchase of twenty-three horses and other necessary things, I made arrangements for my departure which took place on the next morning. The south fork of the river being represented as affording more wood than the north, I commenced ascending that stream. The weather was fine, the valleys literally covered with buffaloe, and everything seemed to promise a safe and speedy movement to the first grove of timber on my route, supposed to be about ten days' march. The Loup Pawneys were not at this time on very good terms with the Arapahoe and Kiawa Indians, and were anxious to cultivate a friendly understanding with them, to accomplish which, they concluded to send a deputation of five men with me to meet those tribes and propose to them terms of peace and amity. This deputation overtook me on the afternoon of the 25th.

Having now reached a point where danger might be reasonably apprehended from strolling war parties of Indians, spies were kept in advance and strict diligence observed in the duty of sentinels.

The morning of the 26th was cloudy and excessively cold. At 3 o,clock in the afternoon it began to snow and continued with violent winds until the night of the 27th. The next morning (28th) four of my horses were so benumbed with cold that they were unable to stand, although we succeeded in raising them on their feet. A delay to recruit them would have been attended with great danger, probably even to the destruction of the whole party. I therefore concluded to set forward without them. The snow was now so deep that had it not been for the numerous herds of buffaloe moving down the river, we could not possibly have proceeded. The paths of these animals were beat on either side of the river and afforded an easy passage to our horses. These animals were essentially beneficial to us in another respect by removing (in their search for food)
the snow in many places from the earth and leaving the grass exposed to view, which was the only nourishment our horses could obtain.

We continued to move forward without loss of time, hoping to be able to reach the wood described by the Indians before all our horses should become exhausted. on the 1st january, 1825, I was exceedingly surprised and no less gratified at the sight of a grove of timber, in appearance, distant some two or three miles on our front. It proved to be a grove of cottonwood of the sweet-bark kind suitable for horse food, situated on an island, offering among other conveniences, a good situation for defence. I concluded to remain here several days for the purpose of recruiting my horses, and made my arrangements accordingly. My Indian friends of the Pawne Loup deputation, believing this place to be nearly opposite to the Arrapahoe and other Indian camps on the Arkansas determined to proceed hence across the country. They prepared a few pounds of meat and with each a bundle of wood tied to his back for the purpose of fuel, departed the following morning on their mission. Being informed by the Pawneys that one hundred of my old enemies (the Arikara warriors) were encamped with the Arkansas Indians, and my situation independent of that circumstance, being rendered more vulnerable by the departure of the Indians, who had just left us, I was obliged to increase my guard from eight to sixteen men. This was much the most severe duty my men had to perform, but they did it with alacrity and cheerfulness as well as all other services required at their hands; indeed, such was their pride and ambition in the discharge of their duties, that their privations in the end became sources of amusement to them. We remained on this island until the cottonwood fit for horse food was nearly consumed, by which time our horses were so refreshed as to justify another move forward. We therefore made arrangements for our departure and resumed our march on the 11th january.

The weather continued extremely cold, which rendered our progress slow and very labourious. We procured daily a scanty supply of small pieces of driftwood and willow brush, which sufficed for our fuel, but we did not fall in with any cottonwood suitable for horse food until the 20th, when we reached another small island clothed with a body of that wood sufficient for two days subsistence. From this last mentioned island, we had a clear and distant view of the Rocky mountains bearing west, about sixty miles distant. Believing from the information of the Indians that it was impracticable to cross them at this time, I concluded to advance to their base with my whole party, and, after fortifying my camp, to proceed with a part of my men into the mountains, to ascertain if possible the best route to cross over, and at the same time, endeavour to employ my men advantageously until a state of things would allow me to proceed on my journey.

We advanced slowly to the point proposed, and had the good fortune to find on our way an abundance of wood for fuel as well as for horse food. on the 4th february, we approached near to the base of the mountain and encamped in a thick grove of cottonwood and willows on a small branch of the river Platt. our situation here was distant six or eight miles north of a conspicuous peak of the mountains, which I imagined to be that point described by Major Long as being the highest peak and lying in latitude 40 N., longitude 29 W. On my route hither from our encampment of the 20th january, I was overtaken by three Arapahoe Indians. They stated to me that they had been informed by the Indians of the Pawney deputation (whom they had received and treated with friendship) of my journey up the Platt, and that they with 60 or 70 other warriors had started from their encampment on the Arkansas to join me, but the unusual depth of snow on the prairies had deterred all the party except themselves from proceeding further than their second day's encampment. I made them some presents, gave them advice in relation to the course of conduct they should pursue towards our citizens, and pointed out to them the advantages which a friendly understanding between them and the Pawneys would produce to both tribes. They acknowledged the correctness of my admonition and promised in future to pursue the line of conduct I had advised them to adopt. They then thanked me for the presents I had made them and departed to rejoin their tribe.

We were busily [engaged] on excursions in different directions from our camp until the 25th february. Although the last ten days had been pleasant weather partly accompanied with warm suns, the scene around us was pretty much the same as when we arrived, everything being enveloped in one mass of snow and ice, but, as my business required a violent effort to accomplish its object, notwithstanding the mountains seemed to bid defiance to my further progress, things were made ready, and on the 26th we commenced the doubtful undertaking.our passage across the first range of mountains, which was exceedingly difficult and dangerous, employed us three days, after which the country presented a different aspect. Instead of finding the mountains more rugged as I advanced towards their summit and everything in their bosom frozen and torpid, affording nothing on which an animal could possibly subsist, they assumed quite an altered character. The ascent of the hills (for they do not deserve the name of mountains) was so gradual as to cause but little fatigue in travelling over them. The valleys and south sides of the hills were but partially covered with snow, and the latter presented already in a slight degree the verdure of spring, while the former were filled with numerous herds of buffaloe, deer, and antelope.

In my passage hither I discovered from the shape of the country, that the range of mountains twenty or thirty miles to the north of my route, was not so lofty or rugged and in all probability would afford a convenient passage over them. From here I pursued a W.N.W. course with such variations only as were necessary in selecting the smoothest route. The face of the country west and northwardly continued pretty much the same. Successive ranges of high hills gradually ascending as I advanced, with detached heaps of rock and earth scattered promiscuously over the hills several hundred feet higher than the common surface. On the south there appeared at the distance of fifteen or twenty miles a range of lofty mountains bearing east and west, entirely covered with snow and timbered with a thick growth of pine. We were able to procure but a scanty supply of fuel till we arrived on the 10th march at a small branch of the north fork of the Platte, where we found an abundance of wood. This stream is about one hundred feet wide, meandering northeastwardly through a beautiful and fertile valley, about ten miles in width. Its margin is partially wooded with large cottonwood of the bitter kind. The sweet cottonwood, such as affords food for horses, is nowhere to be found in the mountains; consequently our horses had to subsist upon a very small allowance of grass, and this, too (with the exception of a very inconsiderable proportion) entirely dry and in appearance destitute of all nutriment. Yet my horses retained their strength and spirits in a remarkable degree, which with other circumstances, confirms me in the opinion that the vegetation of the mountains is much more nourishing than that of the plains.

On the 12th, I again set out and in the evening encamped at the foot of a high range of mountains covered with snow and bearing N.N.W. and S.S.E., which, as they appeared to present the same obstructions to my passage as far north as the eye could reach, determined me (after a day's examination) to attempt the continuation of my course W.N.W., hoping to be as successful as I had been in crossing the first range. My attempt, however, proved unsuccessful. After an unremitting and severe labour of two days, we returned to our old encampment with the loss of some of my horses, and my men excessively fatigued. We found the snow to be from three to five feet in depth and so firmly settled as to render our passage through it wholly impracticable. This mountain is timbered with a beautiful growth of white pine and from every appearance is a delightful country to travel over in the summer season. After remaining one day longer at the camp to rest my men and horses, I left it a second time and travelled northwardly along the base of the mountains. As I thus advanced, I was delighted with the variegated scenery presented by the valleys and mountains, which were enlivened by innumerable herds of buffaloe antelope, and mountain sheep grazing on them, and what added no small degree of interest to the whole scene, were the many small streams issuing from the mountains, bordered with a thin growth of small willows and richly stocked with beaver. As my men could profitably employ themselves on these streams, I moved slowly along, averaging not more than five or six miles per day and sometimes remained two days at the same encampment.

On the 21st march, the appearance of the country justified another attempt to resume my former course W.N.W. The principal or highest part of the mountain having changed its direction to east and west, I ascended it in such manner as to leave its most elevated ranges to the south and travelled north west over a very rough and broken country generally covered with snow. My progress was therefore slow and attended with unusual labour untill the afternoon of the 23d, when I had succeeded in crossing the range and encamped on the edge of a beautiful plain of a circular form and about ten miles in diameter. The next day (24th) we travelled west across the plain, which terminated at the principal branch of the north fork of the river Platt, on which we encamped for the night. on the two succeeding days we passed over an elevated rough country entirely destitute of wood and affording no water save what could be procured by the melting of snow. We used as a substitute for fuel an herb called wild sage. It resembles very much in appearance the garden sage but acquires a much larger growth and possesses a stock of from four to five inches in diameter. It burns well and retains fire as long as any fuel I ever used.

From the morning of the 27th to the night of the 1st april, we were employed in crossing the ridge which divides the waters of the Atlantic from those of the Pacific ocean. The first two days, the country we met with was undulating with a gradual ascent to the west Southwardly at the distance of twenty or thirty miles appeared a range of high mountains bearing east and west. Northwardly, at an equal distance, were several mountains or high hills irregularly seated over the earth, which I afterwards ascertained to surround the sources of a branch of the Platt called Sweet Water.

On the 3d, 4th and 5th days, we travelled over small ridges and valleys alternately, the latter much the most extensive and generally covered with water produced by the melting of the snow and which appeared to have no outlet. This dividing ridge is almost entirely destitute of vegetation except wild sage with which the earth is so bountifully spread that it proved a considerable impediment in our progress. As my horses were greatly exhausted by the fatigue and hunger they had underwent, I advanced on the 2d april only two or three miles to a place where I had, on the preceding evening, discovered some grass. After my camp was arranged, I advanced with one of my men eight or ten miles on my route to a high hill for the purpose of taking a view of the adjacent country in the expectation of finding the appearance of water courses running westwardly. Nothing, however, was visible from which I could form an opinion with the exception of a huge craggy mountain, the eastern extremity of which, bearing from this hill due north, made nearly a right angle. The arm which extended northwardly divides (as I afterwards ascertained) the waters of the Yellow Stone and Bighorn from some of the headwaters of the Columbia, while the west arm separates the southern sources of Lewis's fork of the Columbia from what I suppose to be the headwaters of the Rio Colorado of the West. While on the mountain, I was discovered by a war party of Crow Indians, who were returning from an excursion against the southern Snake Indians. This party, unobserved by me, followed me to my camp and on the succeeding night stole seventeen of my best horses and mules. This outrage reduced me to a dreadful condition. I was obliged to burden my men with the packs of the stolen horses, and, after making the necessary arrangements, they were directed to proceed to the hill where I had been discovered the day previous by the Indians, while I, with one man, pursued the fugitives who travelled northwardly over the roughest parts of the country and with all possible expedition. In the course of the day we recovered three of the stolen horses, which were left on the way, and rejoined our party that night. on the next morning I dispatched nine men on the trail of the Indians, and with the residue of my party I proceeded in search of a suitable encampment at which to await their return. on the 6th we reached a small stream of water running north west. We deemed it about ten miles where it formed a junction with another rivulet of the same size, which headed northwardly in the range of mountains before described. This stream is clothed with a growth of small willows and furnishes the only constant running water we have met with since the 24th march and also the first wood we have seen in the same space of time. We continued at this camp until the 11th inst., on which day, the men sent in pursuit of the Indians came back without success. They had ascertained, however, from the direction of the trace and other circumstances that they belonged to the Crow nation. on the 12th we again proceeded on our journey, pursuing the meanders of the creek last mentioned in a south west direction; but the weather was so exceedingly bad, snowing a greater part of the time, that we were unable to advance more than six or eight miles per day until the 18th inst., when we left the creek and traveled west about fifteen miles to a beautiful river running south. This stream is about one hundred yards wide, of a bold current, and generally so deep that it presents but few places suitable for fording. Its margin and islands are wooded with large long leafed (or bitter) cottonwood, box-elder, willows, etc., and, judging from the quantity of wood cut on its banks, and other appearances, it once must have contained a great number of beaver, the major part of which (as I have been informed) were trapped by men in the service of the North West company some four or five years ago.

The country in this vicinity and eastwardly fifty miles is gently rolling. Some of the valleys afford a species of fine grass, but the uplands produce but little vegetation of any kind except a small growth of wild sage.

I have hitherto said but little in relation to the fertility of the soil on my route because that part of it lying east [of] the mountains has in two or three instances been described by gentlemen who have travelled over the country for that express purpose and further because the perfect sameness in the quality of the soil and its productions enabled me to describe them altogether and that in but few words. From this place to Plumb point on the river Platt, the proportion of arable land (which is almost entirely confined to the valleys of the mountains) is so inconsiderable that the whole country (so far as my observations extended) may be considered of no value for the purpose of agriculture. The surface generally either exhibits a bed of sand or a light coloured barren earth, which is in many places wholly destitute of the least semblance of vegetation. In relation to the subsistence of men and horses, I will remark that nothing now is actually necessary for the support of men in the wilderness than a plentiful supply of good fresh meat. It is all that our mountaineers ever require or even seem to wish. They prefer the meat of the buffaloe to that of any other animal, and the circumstance of the uninterrupted health of these people who generally eat unreasonable quantities of meat at their meals, proves it to be the most wholesome and best adapted food to the constitution of man. In the different concerns which I have had in the Indian country, where not less than one hundred men have been annually employed for the last four years and subsist altogether upon meat, I have not known at any time a single instance of bilious fever among them or any other disease prevalent in the settled parts of our country, except a few instances (and but very few) of slight fevers produced by colds or rheumatic affections, contracted while in the discharge of guard duty on cold and inclement nights. Nor have we in the whole four years lost a single man by death except those who came to their end prematurely by being either shot or drowned. In the summer and fall seasons of the year, the country will afford sufficient grass to subsist any number of horses in traversing it in either direction and even in the winter season, such is the nutricious quality of the mountain grass that, when it can be had plentifully, although perfectly dry in appearance, horses (moderately used) that partake of it, will retain in a great degree their flesh, strength, and spirits. When the round leaf or sweet-bark cottonwood can be had abundantly, horses may be wintered with but little inconvenience. They are very fond of this bark, and, judging by the effect produced from feeding it to my horses last winter, I suppose it almost, if not quite, as nutricious as timothy hay.

On my arrival at the point last described. I determined to relieve my men and horses of their heavy burdens, to accomplish which, I concluded to make four divisions of my party, send three of them by land in different directions, and, with the fourth party, descend the river myself with the principal part of my merchandise. Accordingly, some of the men commenced making a frame about the size and shape of a common mackinaw boat, while others were sent to procure buffaloe skins for a covering. On the 21 april, all things being ready for our departure, I dispatched six men northwardly to the sources of the river; seven others set out for a mountain bearing s.s.w. and N.N.E., distant about thirty miles; and six others were sent in a southern direction. After selecting one of the most intelligent and efficient of each party to act as partizans, I directed them to proceed to their respective points of destination and thence in such direction as circumstances should dictate for my interest. At the same time they were instructed to endeavor to fall in with two parties of men that were fitted out by me in the year previous, and who were then, as I supposed, beyond the range of mountains appearing westwardly. The partisans were also informed that I would descend the river to some eligible point about one hundred miles below, there deposit a part of my merchandise, and make such marks as would designate it as a place of general rendezvous for the men in my service in that country, and where they were all directed to assemble on or before the 10th july following.

After the departure of the land parties, I embarked with six men on thursday, the 21st april, on board my newly made boat and began the descent of the river. After making about fifteen miles, we passed the mouth of the creek which we had left on the morning of the 18th and to which we gave the name of Sandy. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we encamped for the remainder of the day and night at a place distant about forty miles from where we embarked, finding from the movement of our boat in its day's progress that she was too heavily burthened, we began the construction of another, which was completed and launched on the morning of the 24th, when we again set out. As we advanced on our passage, the country gradually became more level and broken. The river bottom, which in point of soil, is but little better than the uplands, becomes narrower as we descended and has generally the appearance of being subject to inundation. Today we made 30 miles.

MONDAY, 25TH: the country today under our observation is mountainous on either side of the river for twenty miles, then it resumes its former appearance of elevated and broken heights. A beautiful bold running stream about fifty yards wide empties itself on the west side of the river bearing N.W. and S.E. Below this junction the river is one hundred and fifty yards wide, the valley narrow and thinly timbered. We encamped on an island after making about twenty-five miles. Thence we departed on the succeeding morning and progressed slowly without observing any remarkable difference in the appearance of the river or surrounding country until the 30th inst., when we arrived at the base of a lofty rugged mountain, the summit of which was covered with snow and bearing east and west. Here also a creek sixty feet wide discharges itself on the west side. This spot I selected as a place of general rendezvous, which I designated by marks in accordance with the instruction given to my men. So far, the navigation of this river is without the least obstruction. The channel in the most shallow places affords not less than four feet water. Game continues abundant, particularly buffaloe. There is no appearance of these animals wintering on this river; but they are at this time travelling from the west in great numbers.

SATURDAY, MAY 2d: we continued our voyage about half a mile below our camp, when we entered between the walls of this range of mountains, which approach at this point to the waters, edge on either side of the river and rise almost perpendicular to an immense height. The channel of the river is here contracted to the width of sixty or seventy yards, and the current (much increased in velocity) as it rolled along in angry submission to the serpentine walls that direct it, seemed constantly to threaten us with danger as we advanced. We, however, succeeded in descending about ten miles without any difficulty or material change in the aspect of things and encamped for the night. About two miles above this camp, we passed the mouth of a creek on the west side some fifteen yards wide, which discharged its water with great violence.

SUNDAY, 3RD: after progressing two miles, the navigation became difficult and dangerous, the river being remarkably crooked with more or less rapids every mile caused by rocks which had fallen from the sides of the mountain, many of which rise above the surface of the water and required our greatest exertions to avoid them. At twenty miles from our last camp, the roaring and agitated state of the water a short distance before us indicated a fall or some other obstruction of considerable magnitude. our boats were consequently rowed to shore, along which we cautiously descended to the place from whence the danger was to be apprehended. It proved to be a perpendicular fall of ten or twelve feet produced by large fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountain and settled in the river extending entirely across its channel and forming an impregnable barrier to the passage of loaded watercraft. We were therefore obliged to unload our boats of their cargoes and pass them empty over the falls by means of long cords which we had provided for such purposes. At sunset, our boats were reloaded and we descended a mile lower down and encamped.

MONDAY, 4TH: this day we made about forty miles. The navigation and mountains by which the river is bounded continues pretty much the same as yesterday. These mountains appear to be almost entirely composed of stratas of rock of various colours (mostly red) and are partially covered with a dwarfish growth of pine and cedar, which are the only species of timber to be seen.

TUESDAY, 5TH: after descending six miles, the mountains gradually recede from the water's edge, and the river expands to the width of two hundred and fifty yards, leaving the river bottoms on each side from one to three hundred Yards wide interspersed with clusters of small Willows. We remained at our encampment of this day until the morning of the 7th, when we descended ten miles lower down and encamped on a spot of ground where several thousand Indians had wintered during the past season. Their camp had been judiciously selected for defence, and the remains of their work around it accorded with the judgment exercised in the selection. Many of their lodges remained as perfect as when occupied. They were made of poles two or three inches in diameter, set up in circular form, and covered with cedar bark.

FRIDAY, THE 8TH: we proceeded down the river about two miles, where it again enters between two mountains and affording a channel even more contracted than before. As we passed along between these messy walls, which in a great degree exclude from us the rays of heaven and presented a surface as impassable as their body was impregnable, I was forcibly struck with the gloom which spread over the countenances of my men; they seemed to anticipate (and not far distant, too) a dreadful termination of our voyage, and I must confess that I partook in some degree of what I supposed to be their feelings, for things around us had truly an awful appearance. We soon came to a dangerous rapid which we passed over with a slight injury to our boats. A mile lower down, the channel became so obstructed by the intervention of large rocks over and between which the water dashed with such violence as to render our passage in safety impracticable. The cargoes of our boats were therefore a second time taken out and carried about two hundred yards, to which place, after much labor, our boats were descended by means of cords. Thence we descended fifty (50) miles to the mouth of a beautiful river emptying on each side, to which I gave the name of Mary's river. The navigation continued dangerous and difficult the whole way; the mountains equally lofty and rugged with their summits entirely covered with snow. Mary's river is one hundred yards wide, has a rapid current, and from every appearance very much confined between lofty mountains. A valley about two hundred yards wide extends one mile below the confluence of these rivers, then the mountain again on that side advances to the water's edge. Two miles lower down is a very dangerous rapid, and eight miles further the mountain withdraws from the river on the west side about a half mile. Here we found a luxurious growth of sweet-bark or round-leaf cottonwood and a number of buffaloe, and succeeded by narrow river bottoms and hills. The former, as well as several islands, are partly clothed with a luxuriant growth of round-leaf cottonwood and extend four miles down the river, where the mountains again close to the water's edge and are in appearance more terrific than any we had seen during the whole voyage. They immediately produce bad rapids, which follow in quick succession for twenty miles, below which, as far as I descended, the river is without obstruction. In the course of our passage through the several ranges of mountains, we performed sixteen portages, the most of which were attended with the utmost difficulty and labor. At the termination of the rapids, the mountains on each side of the river gradually recede, leaving in their retreat a hilly space of five or six miles, through which the river meanders in a west direction about (70) seventy miles, receiving in that distance several contributions from small streams on each side, the last of which is called by the Indians Tewinty river. It empties on the north side, is about (60) sixty yards wide, several feet deep, with a bold current.

I concluded to ascend this river on my route returning, therefore deposited the cargoes of my boats in the ground near it, and continued my descent of the main river fifty miles to the point marked 5 on the topographical sketch sent you. The whole of that distance the river is bounded by lofty mountains heaped together in the greatest disorder, exhibiting a surface as barren as can be imagined. This part of the country is almost entirely without game. We saw a few mountain-sheep and some elk, but they were so wild, and the country so rugged that we found it impossible to approach them. On my way returning to Tewinty river, I met a part of the Eutau tribe of Indians, who appeared very glad to see us and treated us in the most respectful and friendly manner. These people were well dressed in skins, had some guns, but armed generally with bows and arrows and such other instruments of war as are common among the Indians of the Missouri. Their horses were better than Indian horses generally are east of the mountains and more numerous in proportion to the number of persons. I understood (by signs) from them that the river which I had descended, and which I supposed to be the Rio Colorado of the West, continued its course as far as they had any knowledge of it, southwest through a mountainous country. They also informed me that all the country known to them from south to west from Tewinty river was almost entirely destitute of game, that the Indians inhabiting that region subsist principally on roots, fish and horses. The Eutaus are part of the original Snake nation of Indians. They have no fixed place of residence but claim a district of country which (according to their representation) is about one hundred and fifty miles long by one hundred miles wide, to which their situation at that time was nearly central.

I purchased a few horses of the Eutaus, returned to Tewinty river and ascended to its extreme sources, distant from its mouth about seventy miles, in general bearing W.N.W. and S.S.E.; [it] runs through a mountainous sterile country. From the head waters of Tewinty river, I crossed a range of lofty mountains nearly E. and W., which divide the waters of the Rio Colorado from those which I have represented as the Beaunaventura. This range of mountains is in many places fertile and closely timbered with pine, cedar, quaking-asp, and a dwarfish growth of oak; a great number of beautiful streams issue from them on each side, running through fertile valleys richly clothed with grass. I proceeded down the waters of the Beaunaventura about sixty miles bordered with a growth of willow almost impenetrable. In that distance I crossed several streams from 20 to 60 yards wide running in various directions. All of them, as I am informed, unite in one in the course of 30 miles, making a river of considerable magnitude, which enters a few miles lower down a large lake, represented on your sketch as Lake Tempagono. This information was communicated to me by our hunters who (as I before told) had crossed to this region in the summer of 1824 and wintered on and near the borders of this lake. They had not explored the lake sufficiently to judge correctly of its extent, but from their own observations and information collected from Indians, they supposed it to be about eighty miles long by fifty broad. They represented it as a beautiful sheet of water deep, transparent, and a little brackish, though in this latter quality the accounts differ; some insist that it is not brackish. I met several small parties of Eutaw Indians on this side of the last mentioned range of mountains, 100 miles long bearing about W.N.W. and S.S.E. [who said] that a large river flowing out of it on the west end runs in a western direction, but they know nothing of its discharge into the ocean or of the country any considerable distance west of the lake. I also conversed with some very intelligent men who I found with our hunters in the vicinity of this lake and who had been for many years in the service of the Hudson Bay Fur company. Some of them profess to be well acquainted with all the principal waters of the Columbia, with which they assured me these waters had no connection short of the ocean. It appears from this information that the river is not the Multnomah, a southern branch of the Columbia, which I first supposed it to be. The necessity of my unremitted attention to my business prevented me from gratifying a great desire to descend this river to the ocean, which I ultimately declined with the greatest reluctance. The country drained by these waters, which is about one hundred and twenty miles wide and bounded on the north, east and south by three principal and conspicuous mountains, is beautifully diversified with hills, mountains, valleys, and bold running streams and is in parts fertile. The northern part of it is well supplied with buffaloe, elk, bear, antelope, and mountain-sheep. The country east and a considerable distance north of these lakes, including the headwaters of the Rio Colorado of the West and down the same to Mary's river, is claimed by the Shoshone Indians. The men in my employ here have had but little intercourse with these people. So far they had been treated by them in the most friendly manner. They had, however, some time in the fall of 1824, attacked and killed several of our citizens who had crossed from Taus and were trading on the _______.

On the 1st day of july, all the men in my employ or with whom I had any concern in the country, together with twenty-nine, who had recently withdrawn from the Hudson Bay company, making in all 120 men, were assembled in two camps near each other about 20 miles distant from the place appointed by me as a general rendezvous, when it appeared that we had been scattered over the territory west of the mountains in small detachments from the 38th to the 44th degree of latitude, and the only injury we had sustained by Indian depredations was the stealing of 17 horses by the Crows on the night of the 2nd april, as before mentioned, and the loss of one man killed on the headwaters of the Rio Colorado, by a party of Indians unknown.

Mr. Jedediah Smith, a very intelligent and confidential young man, who had charge of a small detachment, stated that he had, in the fall of 1824, crossed from the headwaters of the Rio Colorado to Lewis fork of the Columbia and down the same about one hundred miles, thence northwardly to Clark's fork of the Columbia, where he found a trading establishment of the Hudson Bay company, where he remained for some weeks. Mr. Smith ascertained from the gentleman who had charge of that establishment, that the Hudson Bay company had then in their employment, trading with the Indians and trapping beaver on both sides of the Rocky mountains, about 80 men, 60 of whom were generally employed as trappers and confined their operations to that district called the Snake country, which Mr. Smith understood as being confined to the district claimed by the Shoshone Indians. It appeared from the account, that they had taken in the last four years within that district eighty thousand beaver, equal to one hundred and sixty thousand pounds of furs.

You can form some idea of the quantity of beaver that country once possessed, when I tell you that some of our hunters had taken upwards of one hundred in the last spring hunt out of streams which had been trapped, as I am informed, every season for the last four years.

It appears from Mr. Smith's account that there is no scarcity of buffalo as he penetrated the country. As Mr. Smith returned, he inclined‘‘west and fell on the waters of the Grand lake or Beaunaventura. He describes the country in that direction as admitting a free and easy passage and abounding in salt. At one place particularly hundreds of bushels might have been collected from the surface of the earth within a small space. He gave me some specimens, which equal in appearance and quality the best Liverpool salt. Mr. S. also says the buffaloe are very plenty as far as he penetrated the country over it in almost any direction.

On the 2nd day of july, I set out on my way homewards with 50 men, 25 of whom were to accompany me to a navigable point of the Big Horn river, thence to return with the horses employed in the transportation of the furs. I had forty-five packs of beaver cached a few miles east of our direct route. I took with me 20 men, passed by the place, raised the cache, and proceeded in a direction to join the other party, but, previous to joining them, I was twice attacked by Indians first by a party of Blackfeet about 60 in number. They made their appearance at the break of day, yelling in the most hideous manner and using every means in their power to alarm our horses, which they so effectually did that the horses, although closely hobbled, broke by the guard and ran off. A part of the Indians being mounted, they succeeded in getting all the horses except two, and wounded one man. An attempt was also made to take our camp, but in that they failed. The following night, I sent an express to secure horses from the party of our men who had taken a direct route. In two days thereafter, I received the desired aid and again proceeded on my way, made about ten miles, and encamped upon an eligible situation. That night, about 12 o'clock, we were again attacked by a war party of Crow Indians, which resulted in the loss of one of the Indians killed and another shot through the body, without any injury to us. The next day I joined my other party and proceeded direct to my place of embarkation just below the Big Horn mountain, where I arrived on the 7th day of august.

On my passage thither, I discovered nothing remarkable in the features of the country. It affords generally a smooth way to travel over. The only very rugged part of the route is in crossing the Big Horn mountain, which is about 30 miles wide. I had the Big Horn river explored from Wind River mountain to my place of embarkation. There is little or no difficulty in the navigation of that river from its mouth to Wind River mountain. It may be ascended that far at a tolerable stage of water with a boat drawing three feet water. The Yellowstone river is a beautiful river to navigate. It has rapids extending from above Powder river about fifty miles but I found about four feet water over the most.

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Inventory of Goods available at the 1825 Rendezvous on Henry's Fork of the Green River (cached goods listed in Ashley's diary).

First cache

2    bags coffee
1         hams goods
3    pack powder 1  1s qt
2         Tobacco
3    B.   Lead
          horse shoes
          Beads large & small
2    packs     sugar
1    pack  cloth with some knives therein
7    doz  Knives
                                      

Second cache

2.5  kegs Tobacco         150 lbs.
14   doz  Knives
2    peaces    scarlett Cloth
2    ditto Blue Stroud
3    Bags coffee            200 lbs.
     Bale & Bag Sugar       130 lbs.
3    packs     beaver        50 skins
     pack beads, assorted
          & vermillion
          assortment of Indian trinkett, mockerson alls do.
2    Bags gun powder        150  lbs.
3    Bars lead              120 lbs.
     Bag flints            1000
     Bag salt                10 lbs.
     pack cloths -
     pack containg a variety of Indian trinketts - 
     Ribbons Binding &c
          axes hoes &c
                                      

Ashley's Accounts from Rendezvous, July 1825, from his notebook

Mr Logan & Co.
18 Coffee                27
3 Sugar                   4.50
12 Knives                30.00
2 1/2 Tobacco
doz ring pr Bill          2
3 Powder                  4
3 Lead                    3



T Vergel & Isac Gilbredth
4 Coffee                 6
3 Sugar                  4.50
3 Knives                 7.50
doz hooks                2
doz flints               1
1 1/2 yds  Scarlett     12 -
3 Powder                 6.0
                        39.00

----------

Mr Greenwood            
1 1/2 Coffee             2.25
1 1/2 Sugar              2.25
202  Beaver         3  606.00
Pistol-                 45.00
                        


Mr E. Provo              C
3 yds Scarlet-           8.24
2 yds 1/2 Blue Cloth     6.15
Self 10 yds Ribbon .50   5
9 Sugar                 13.50
7 Coffee                10.50
1 Yd Blue cloth          6   
1 doz Rings              2
3 lb Sugar               4.50
3 Coffee                 4.50
2 yd Ribband             1   
-------------    LaBontee
½ yd Scarlett            4
1 doz Rings              2
2 Sugar                  6   
2 Coffee                 2
-------------    Adams
Tobacco
1/2 yd   Scarlett        3   
2 Sugar                  3
2 Coffee                 3
1 doz Rings              2
-------------    Pino
fish hooks                .50
                       ------
                       111.50

Recd 83 Beaver at 2.50 207.50


Mr   Provo            Brot over
                       111.50
3 Beads p. self          9
5 Tobacco      2        10
1 1/2 Beads pr Labonty   4.50
2 Sugar & 2 Coffee       6
   pr. W.
2 yds Blue Cloth        12
                      $153.00
------------
Mr White
153 Beaver          250




Logan & cunningham
4 Blanketts
flannel
Powder-Lead Knives Spirits                        
coffee Sugar-pepper

-------

Bell & able
4 Blanketts
Tobacco
Cloth-flannels
Powder    Lead
Knives    flints
Coffee


                                      

     Pierre

Seutchineele
Silk Sewing
small beads  white
very small needles
allum fine Cloth
Ribband assorted-
Pencils lead
Pen Knife-
Gallon Rum-
flour-30 pound
Sugar & Coffee
files for traps
gimblet  Vices

Small red green & Blue beads
Flour sugar & Coffee
Small kettles
Earrings

                                      

     
large chissels   2  doz
Blanketts      - - - -   $ 9.00
Powder    - - - - -        1.50
Lead - - - - -             1 -
Sugar     - - - - -        1 -
Coffee    - - - - -        2 -
Tobacco   - - - -          1.50
Knives                       75
alls-
gun Locks      first quality
flints c 5        100 Rifles -
Blue Coth              $5 yd
Scarlett                6
Slay bells
flour            -     1 lb
Pepper                     1.75
Kettles assorted -
Bridles
vermilion
Spurs   guns
S
flanel red green yellow
Rusha sheeting



Soap    worsted webbing
combs assorted -
small thin bar Iron
Trap springs-
double bit Bridle per Mr Gray
3 doz Serscingles-
Saddle for Mr Gray
hats-Gardner & Gray...
Black silk HKs
Tomhawks
axes-Chissels-3/8 Inches Thick
pipes-2 1/2 wide sockett-



J Gardner                      Dr.
x    28   Tobacco               84
x    35   Coffee                70
x    9    Sugar                 18
x    6    fire steels                      172
x    3    doz Knives            75         156
x    3    gross Buttons         24         328
x    3    doz fish hooks   1.50  4.50       24
x    5    doz alls               5.00      342
x    9     doz Rings       1     9
x    2    peaces Binding         6
x    3    peaces Ribband         9
x    7    pr Scissors    2.00   14
x    2    doz combs              3
x    1 1/2  gr. Thread   3.00    4.50
x    7    doz flints             3.50
x    7 1/2  yds  Scarlett $6    45
x    5 1/8  do   do             30.70
x    6    yd Stroud -5          30
x    32   Powder-
x    43   Coffee


     
[On facing page:]
Mr Prudum              Dr
36 Beaver-                 108
                            80.25
propotin Sugar &       due  28.75
Coffee    7 75               7.25
                            21.50

4  Knives                6
4 Beads      5          20
doz rings                2
6 yds Ribbon             3
2 doz alls          2    4
1/2 doz hooks            1
2  doz Buttons           2
2 " Large                3
2 yd coth          6    12
2 Scarlett               8   68.75
                             12.50
                             80.25

Mr Lolo
41 Beaver-
2 Knives    4 50                           52 75
5 Beads    25                              12 50
Sugar & Coffee      7 75                   66 25
1/2 doz alls        1
doz hooks-          2                      41
3 Combs             1 50                    3
2 doz Buttons       3    -                123
3 doz Small do      2
fire steel          1
doz flint           1 50
1 1/2 yds cloth     4 50



Mr Carson
51 Beaver-
 3 otter-       2.50
propotion of 18 Coff          7.75
          do sugar-
     61   3 Knives            4 50
          3 Beads-5          15   -    -
          doz rings           1 50
          1 1/2 yd Cloth      9
          the doz  Buttons    2 50
                             53 75
----------
Mr Montour
45 Beaver                135
1 otter 2.50               2 50
                         137 50
Sugar & coffee     7 75    8 75
3 Knives       7 50       -----
5 Beads $5          25   128 75
1 doz rings                   2
10 yd Ribband                 5
2 doz alls                    4
1/2 doz hooks                 1
2 doz Buttons                 3
2 yd Cloth                   12
4 Scarlett                    8



Sanicce  Lardemarke

49 1/2 Beaver-
46   do -
otter  --- ---   2. 50
Sugar & Coffee
 4 Beads 5           20 
Sugar & Coffee           3
4 Knives  150            6
powder & lead            7 -
flints                   1 -
---------------
     John B. Lou alessa

87 lb Beaver -
 Sugar & Coffee            12 
3 ½ Beads         5       17 50
Sugar & Coffee             3
4 Knives                   6
Brech cloth                2 50
Powder & Lead              7



Pierre
     100 Beaver - -
     Sugar & Coffee
     3 Beads-5           15 00
     8 Knives -          12
     1 Coffee & Sugar     6
     4 Lead-              4
     2 powder & Lead     14
     flints               2
     Bag                  2

---------
Mt Anance

17   Beaver -
     Sugar & Coffee           7 75
     3 Knives -               4 50
     2 1/2 Beads        0.50 12 1/2
     doz rings                2
     1/2 doz alls             1
     Sugar & coffee 
     Powder Lead             12 50
     Tobacco                  7 25
                             46 75



Mr Godan
46   Beaver -  138  Due $86 50
     Sugar & Coffee       7 75
     2 Knives             3
     2 Beads -           10
     doz rings            2 -
     1/2 doz all          1 -
     yd coth              6
     doz flints           1
     Tobacco              7 25
     Powder & Lead       12 50
                         50 50

     fire steel     -     1
                         ----
                         53 50


J. B. Finly
13   Beaver                49
     2 Knives
     Sugar & Coffee -       7 50
     2 1/2 Beads      5    17 50
     1 doz rings            2 -
     2 yds Ribbon           1
     Comb                     50
     Buttons -              1
     Scarlett               1
     powder & Lead         12 50
                           43 00



Mr. Monteau                67 75
     am Brot over
     fire steel             1
     Pistol                20
                           88 75

                            7 50
                           96 25

                           12 50
                          108 75
                          137 50
     due -                 28 75
     Tobacco -              7 50
     Pistol                20
                           28 50

                           52 75

Mr Lolo
     Coth                   5
     7 Beaver  $21 -
     Tobacco                7 25
     Powder Lead           12 50

                           77 50



Mr Monteaus Bill

     Chochenelle
     Blue Cloth
     2 Worsted assorted
     Coper - Kettle-2 gallons
     4 Beads -



Gardner &c                           Dr-
     6 Beads                          18
      Bag 
     62 Lead                          62
     pads  marto                      90



Cr.

44   Beaver
43   do
42   do
49   do
39   do
15   do $12 deduct
---
232



Isaac Gilbreth             cr
     By 189 lb Beaver pr Smith & Co. $567
                          $ 3
-------
     Thomas Vergil       c
     by 107 1/2-$3            321 75
-------
     Wm Bell   c
     by 50 Beaver-$3          150
-------
     Robt Nutt

     156  lb       $ 2        212
-------
     Stephen Terry
     By 113. lb Beaver  $2    226
-------
     Thomas Eddy...
     By 56 Beaver    $ 2.00   112
-------
     E. Able
     4 1/4 Beaver   $ 3.00     12 75
-------   
     Jedediah Smith           Cr

     B.   57 - 58 - 58 - 56 - 59    -344
     By 57 - 61 - - 57 . 59 . 54     288
                                     632



[Entire page struck out]

               Jedediah Smith
               Brot up        632
                              110
                              742
               58 lbs
               52
               110
              ---------
               G. Jackson
               8 Beaver  $      3.00

               J. Smith  19 -

     57   189                    742
     69   107                     83
     53    50                   ----
     55   156   1567      166    668
     52   113   1800
     52   516    120
     54     4    140   Fitzpatrick
     33   ---   3100
     57   675    461
     56   592    166 
     54   ---    668 
     592   83    675 
     83          132  
     ---        ----
     675        8829


[on facing pages]

     Jedediah Smith      D.      Cr.
     1                           By 668 Beaver $ 275
---------------
    
     James Clyman        Dr.
                                 By 45 Beaver
                                    26
                                    54
                                    30   155  lbs
                                    11    11
                                         166  lbs.


[on facing pages]

     William Sublett...        Cr.
                               By 50 Beaver @ 2 50    125 -
                                " 116 do-  2 50       290 -

                                " Smith asst  -

---------

     A Goodridge               By 43 Beaver


[On facing pages]

     Ham        D              By 461 Beaver

---------------






Memorandum of goods for Mess. Gardner & Williams pr their order
     1 doz razors             24      24
     50 3 pt N W Blanketts-          450
     25   Kettles            140
     50   pipes              175      87 1/2
     50   Coffee             175      87 1/2
     75   Sugar              100      75
     150  Powder             150     225
     200  Lead               200     200
     2    doz Bridles         36      72
     6    doz Knives          $9      54
     1    doz gun Locks        8      96
     1/2 doz rifles 
      X  500 flour           100     500
        20 yd Coth              .5   100
        20 Soap              100      20.
     2 doz penknives         100      24
     1 gr Blacksilk HKg      200      40
     1 pr Rusha Sheeting     150      75
     2 doz naped Hats          8    $192


     
Amt Botup
     12 Bolts ribbon           3      36
     1 pr. Green Flanel      150      60
     1 do Red do             150      60
     1 do Yellow             150      60
     2 doz pans              $18      36
     2 doz tin cups            9      18
     20 fusilS                20     400 00
     12   pr W shoes           3      36
     6    do men               4      24
     10   Gallons rum        $10     100
 x   1    doz pomatum        100pr yd  6
     2    doz files asst.    125      30
     25   Beads ass'.         $3      75
     1/2 y Scarlet     yd.   600     120
     12 doz flints            50     120
     2 Verdegrease           300       6
     8 Vermillion              3      24
     1/2 doz shalls-                  36
     6 doz Looking glasses             6
     200 lbs Tobacco         125     250
     12  chissels 



     
amt Brot over
     2 doz Sersingles        $21      42









Pack No.  1  Skins  31   lbs  53
          2         29        52
          3         36        51
          4         29        50
          5         33        57
          6         30        52
          7         31        51
          8         29        50
          9         36        57
          10        38        50
          11        31        51
          12        28        50
          13        32        57
          14        31        57
          15        31        57
          16        36        50
          17        32        54
          18        33        50
          19        28        50
          20        18        25
          21                  55
          22                  20
          23                  50
          24        31        50
          25        35        50




               90
 150            3
              ----
              270
9000          450
             ----
    16000   31500





                                      

William L. Sublette Papers, Missouri Historical Society, St Louis, MO.

1826 In 1826 he led an expedition that reached the vicinity of Great Salt Lake. Having acquired an ample fortune, he retired from the fur trade and devoted himself to politics. William H. Ashley, Jedediah S. Smith, David E. Jackson, and William L. Sublette.

He sold the trapping business to Jedidiah Smith and others in 1826.

Articles of Agreement, July 18, 1826

Articles of agreement made and entered into this 18th day of July 1826 by and between William H. Ashley of the first part and Jedediah S. Smith David E. Jackson and Wm. L. Sublett trading under the firm Smith Jackson & Sublett of the second part witnesseth that whereas the said party of the second part are now engaged in the fur trade and contemplate renewing their stock of Merchandise &c the ensuing year for the purpose of continuing their said business should their prospects of success Justify their doing so now Therefore the said party of the first part promises and hereby obliges him self to furnish such an assortment of Merchandise as said party of the second part may require according with an Invoice hereunto annexed refrence thereunto will more fully show and for the prices therein mentioned to wit

and it is understood and agreed between the two said parties that so long as the said Ashley continues to furnish said Smith Jackson & Sublett with Merchandize as aforesaid That he will furnish no other company or Individual with Merchandise other than those who may be in his immediate charge service

In presence of
Robert Campbell

LATE 1830'S

1831 to 1837 was U.S. Representative and an able advocate of measures favorable to Western development.

reelected to the Twenty-third and Twenty-fourth Congresses and served from October 31, 1831, to March 3, 1837;

did not seek renomination in 1836 but was an unsuccessful candidate for Governor of Missouri in 1836;

died near Boonville, Mo., March 26, 1838;

interment in an Indian mound overlooking the Missouri River, near his home,on the Lamine River, in Cooper County, Mo.

Source: Missouri Historical Society

Lewis & Clark used the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers much the same way that Ashley and his men would in later years.

Source: Story of the Great American West. - Pleasantville, N.Y.: Reader's Digest Association, c1977.

Clokey, Richard M. William H. Ashley: Enterprises and Politics in the Trans-Mississippi West. 1^st ed. in dust jacket. $50.00

• Clokey, Richard M. William H. Ashley: Enterprise and Politics in the Trans-Mississippi. 1980. Reprint, West Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1990. William H. Ashley - Biography"
  Richard Clokey
  Available through Bitter Creek Books
  672 W. Vernal, Utah 84078 phone 435-789-4742
  $14.95 plus shipping

  ---

  Bibliography:

  Dale, H.C.  1941.  The Ashley-Smith explorations.  Glendale, CA.
  
  Douglas, W.B.  1916.  Three years among the Indians and Mexicans - Thomas 
       James.  St. Louis, MO.  
  
  Frost, Donald McKay.  Notes on General Ashley. (letters from Daniel T. 
       Potts).
  
  Morgan, D.L.  1954-1955.  Journal of William H. Ashley.  Missouri 
       Historical Society Bulletin, Vol. 11 #1-3
  
  Morgan, D.L.  1964.  The west of William H. Ashley.  Denver, CO.
  
  Sullivan, M.S.  1934.  The travels of Jedediah Smith.  The Fine Arts 
       Press.  Santa Anna, CA.
  
  Vinton, S.  1926.  John Colter, discoverer of Yellowstone Park.  New York.
        

  See H. C. Dale, The Ashley-Smith Explorations (1918); B. De Voto, Across the Wide Missouri (1948).

   

  Ashley's Narrative was published in:
  The Ashley-Smith explorations and the discovery of a central route to the Pacific, 1822-1829, with the original journals, by Harrison Clifford Dale, Cleveland, The Arthur H. Clark company, 1918.

• Ashley's Diary is from the William H. Ashley Papers, Missouri Historical Society, St Louis, MO.