This was my first new roadbike -- and my first "good" fixed gear.
It has run in a variety of setups: flat mtb bar, road drops, and now, as it is rebuilt, new bars and stem: cowhorns, tri bars, bullhorns, pedestrian skewers, what have you.
The Syntace bullhorns are drilled, so i routed the cable thru there and hooked the Royal Compe sidepull up to a recycles Shimano 105 aero road lever. [I got a TT brake lever on order, tho!]. 1/8" bmx chain with a single half-link, enables me to use the same 43t, 110 bolt pattern chainring that I ran when the bike was 43x18 [vertical dropouts are a pain the @ss!].
Thanks to the aluminum frame, bullhorns, etc., this bike looks fast just standing still. It is also fairly light! Can't wait to throw on a cyclecomputer and see how fast it really is.
To further reduce weight and absorb any harshness from the rid eof the aluminum frame, I shelled out a few bucks for a carbon fibre seatpost from Specialized. When installing it I turned the seat clamp collar around so the bolt was in the front as well.
Because the bike is five years old, some parts need work. The water bottle bolts on the seat tube are still chromed, but rust formeth inside them; there are many tiny chips in the yellow paint; and the bb bolts holding the brank in are spotted with surface rust as well. But other parts have faired well; the Sakae cranks, 175mm, are new old ones pulled off my old Centurion long ago, and before that from I forget where. They show minimal wear, and little corrosion. after my two rides this weekend on salty winter roads, I cleaned off the grime and muck and then wiped the aluminum cranks down w/ WD40. Suprisingly, it removed the salt. I wiped the frame with a damp paper towel before drying it, and then cleaned the exposed portion of the seatpost and Royal Compe brake calipers with WD40 in a similar manner. Salt removed, they shine. I also wiped off the rims, tho not with WD40, and spokes, as well as wiped off and regreased the chain. At some point, tho, I would like to spray Boshield or a similar product ont he spokes and spoke nipples to prevent corrosion and protect them. But so far decent maintenance has paid off with a ridable fix event hough during its geared life, this bike saw plenty of use.
The bottom bracket is also in decent shape, and relatively new, installed last year or so when I converted to bike to fixed gear for the first time. The 175mm cransk take some readjusting to after running 170 and 165 on my other fixes, tho, and 43x16 is a bit harder to pedal with 175's than 43x18. But it is fun!
On feb 5, I got it set in its [hopefully] final configuration. With the exception of water bottle cages once summer arrives, I doubt I will change much!
The Tektro tt levers came in, I installed it on the bike. I got new grip tape just in case [Cinelli cork, black] but was able to use the old vinyl black tape that I'd only recently installed, which is good; cork is "cool" but doesn't seem to last as long, gets all fugly and worn and dirty, even the black. The vinyl seems a little more resistant to that sort of thing. I just unwrapped it carefully and then rewrapped it. At the lip of the bar, where the level slipped in [it attaches via an expander bolt] I noticed the grip tape was wrapped kinda thin, so I wrapped a lil' bit of black electical tape around it to hold it for good measure. I've also used black electrical tape over the ends where the grip tape terminates on the inside curve of the bars, because the finishing tape provided with virtually every length of grip tape I buy never seems to hold.
According to me low-tech method of measuring first myself, then myself holding the bike, on a bathroom scale, the Trek 1000F is just a hair over 17 lbs light!
...THIS PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION! [new pics comin' soon!]
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