a research by
Saher
Ever wondered where "Denim and jeans" - the names came from?
Initially, the word jeans originated from a kind of material that was made in Europe. The material, called jean, was named after sailors from Genoa in Italy, because they wore clothes made from it. The word 'denim' probably came from the name of a French material, serge de Nimes: serge (a kind of material) from Nimes (a town in France).
A PAGE FROM HISTORY
Initially, the jean cloth was woven from a mixture of stuff, until in the 18th century when trade, slave labor and cotton plantations increased and led to the making of jean exclusively "Cotton".
It became very popular with the working class, because of the material's resilience and durability. It was usually dyed with indigo, a dye prepared from a plant found in the US and India exclusively. It gave jean cloth, a dark blue color.
The 19th Century marked the beginning of an era from where there was no looking back. In 1848, gold was found in California, San Francisco and the and the famous Gold Rush began.
In 1829, Leob Strauss is born in Bavaria. Trying to expand on his family's dry business of merchandising, in 1853, at age 24, Leob opened up his first waterfront store at 90 Sacramento Street, San Francisco. Fortunately for him, unlike his family, his wholesale business boomed.
The clothes he supplied as a wholesaler were designed strong and durable, that which could withstand the wear and tear of the working conditions. It was later that Strauss changed from being Leob to Levi.
THE EMERGING PROBLEM
Although the business boomed and Levi's clothing became very popular, yet there arose the problem with the pockets. The Miners complained that the pockets tore away easily from the jeans, because of which they could not fit in their gold nuggets.
A man named Jacob Davis snapped the idea of using metal rivets or fasteners to hold the pockets strongly onto the jeans.
Davis wanted to patent his idea, but he didn't have enough money, so in 1872, he wrote to Levi Strauss and offered him a deal on a condition that Strauss would have to pay for the patent. Strauss accepted, and therefore the clothing with the addition of rivets came to be known as, copper-riveted 'waist overalls'.
In 1886, Strauss came up with the advertising scheme for his overalls and therefore sewed a leather label onto the jeans which showed off a pair of jeans being pulled between two horses, signifying the sturdiness and durability of the attire.
It was from Hollywood that the GROWTH and variations of Jeans started. In the 1930's, a lot of Cowboy movies were made, which paved the way for eastern Americans to go on "dude ranch" vacations and packed pairs of denim 'waist
1940's, the War times saw the decline in the clothing industry. Yet it was introduced to soldiers as an off duty garment. It was yet after the war, Levi began to sell the clothing outside the American West. Rival companies also sprang up, like Wrangler and Lee, began to compete with Levi for a share of this new market.
The 1950's marked the era of "Rebels". Denim became very popular with the younger lot by this time. It signaled to the rebellious teenage attitude in TV programmes and movies (like James Dean in the 1955 movie Rebel Without a Cause).
Some schools in the USA banned students from wearing denim. Teenagers called the waist overalls 'jean pants' - and the name stayed.
1960's saw the revival and advancement in the adornment of the jeans attire. Legally accepted as a university and college casual wear. Different styles of jeans also originated to match the mentality of the crowd. Embroidered jeans, painted jeans, psychedelic jeans...
Though in many parts of the world, especially the anti-westerners remarked jeans being a symbol of 'Western decadence'. Though popularity can be measured by the amount of letters that flushed into the US Jeans Companies from all around the world requesting for a pair of jeans.
As the Global Trade Regulations became more and more laissez-faire by late 1970's jeans started to be made more and more in sweatshops (workers made to work hard on low wages) in southern countries. Because the workers were paid very little, jeans became cheaper and affordable for almost everyone.
The introduction to what we now know as "Label Jeans or Designer Jeans", the high fashion clothing initiated in the 1980's when the Designer market and awareness boomed all round. It was since the Designers patched their distinct labels on the Jeans that we now we find a variety of price ranges and a variety of cuts and silhouettes in the basic attire.
The end of the 20th century or 1990's saw a recession in the Global Jeans Market. It may be due to the durability or the everlasting purpose of the clothing that everyone owns at least a pair for himself now.
With the dawn of the 21st Century, a well-preserved, properly marketed 19th century pair of Levi's might fetch $50,000-$100,000. A 1940's Lee "Cowboy" brand denim jacket will bring approximately $6,000. A Levi jacket of the same period will fetch $5,000.
THE GROWTH OF THE ATTIRE, WE CALL "JEANS"
1873: Featuring three pockets, no belt loops-only suspender buttons and a waist-cinching buckle on the back, dark blue stiff loose-fitting riveted denim "waist overalls" are introduced in California selling for 22 cents each.
1886: To the rear of the "501" waistband Strauss adds a leather (or oilcloth) rear patch featuring a company publicity stunt of "two hitched horses" unable to pull his waist overalls apart.
1890: A small forth pocket above the front pocket is added to accommodate coins and pocket watches.
1905: A fifth "wallet" pocket is added.
1913: Kansas entrepreneur, H.D. Lee (Founder of Lee Jeans) introduces a one-piece work-wear garment called the Union-All.
1922: Belt loops added, eventually replacing suspender buttons.
1924: 13 ounce denim Lee Rider jeans are introduced. Levi's were 10 oz. at time
1926: The zipper is introduced to blue jeans by Lee.
1936: Red LEVI'S tab added to back pocket.
1950's: Stars like James Dean, Marilyn Monroe and Marlon Brando endorse jeans image.
Mid-60's: Bell bottoms introduced.
1990's: Huge oversized jeans rise and fall in fashion. New industry leaders emerge.
THE TRENDS
Ripping the jeans at various instances of the clothing was once in fad. Sewing on your favorite motif as a patch or cutting off the waistband, is yet another trendy approach.
![[tartan-interleaved black flares]](file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/My%20Documents/jeanexe/f12-2.jpg)
![[flared holographic boots]](file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/My%20Documents/jeanexe/e60.jpg)
Pair
them with holographic boots to be an urban princess or with cowboy boots to be a
windshield rancher.
Can be treated as a casual or semi-casual outfit, needs the right style element though.
Jeans surpass time, monetary and style impediments. Washes, trims, embellishments, leg openings, silhouettes and labels fluctuate with fashion whims and caprice, but jeans, as an attire has reached THE ICONIC STATUS.
Even though they are the conventional American article, yet denim originated from a fabric from Nimmes, France.
Today, jeans are the stuff of high-end designer wear.
Marc by Marc Jacobs, Jill Stuart, D & G (Dolce & Gabbana), Helmut Lang: these designers and many more don't think this sturdy fabric is too humble for the catwalk.
Low-rise
Low-rise jeans and low-slung skirts are still popular for summer and early fall.
Use low-rise cuts to flatter your shape. Use belts to draw the eye towards the
curve of your hip. (Just keep it classic like brown or black leather with a
simple buckle, nothing too loose, too retro or too chain-like.) A chunky
bracelet looks fabulous on your arm at this level too. The eye catches the curve
of your hip, then a twinkle of light on your wrist. Beautiful.
Zippers
All in all the look of the 70's. side zippers, enhanced and exemplified with patch work or embroidery, the extra ordinary look.
Slim cut
Close-fitting jeans usually "IN" some time ago, is definitely not OUT for gals, but yes guys, "NO".
Dark denim
Wanna hide those extra pounds and that flabby ab or curve, tone yourself down with a dark denim. It is an explicit apparel for the semi-casual, or after job wear. Be What you Wanna Be!
Vintage washes
The classical denim look, the smudgy, muddy, ragged effect, it is an all time classic, if you have it wear it, if you don't, check out who does have it and maybe steel IT! :)
Patch
It is the way, you can add your style element. Individual aesthetic sense and a fashion attitude is all that you need.
GLOSSARY FOR JEANS
Right hand twill - Using uniform yarns, this weave is considered more rugged.
Left hand twill - The weave runs diagonally, resulting in a softer, loftier feel.
Ring Spun Denim - The original denim fabric.
Open-End Denim - The most popular type of denim that results in a consistent yarn thickness.
Dirty denim - Filler yarns are brown (instead of natural which is woven with the indigo) which gives the denim a "dirty" appearance
Stonewashed - Most jeans today are stonewashed, but not in pumice stones like the original method. Now enzymes, sand, ceramic balls and other methods give jeans their worn look.
Flares - Slim through the legs, flaring right above the ankle -- to about an 21+ inch opening.
Bellbottoms - Start to flare at the knee, resulting in a 22+ inch leg opening.
![[black latex flares]](file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/My%20Documents/jeanexe/e89.gif)
Peg legs - Extremely narrow leg opening (very '80s)
Bootcut - Slim through the legs, with a slight flare at the ankle to accommodate a boot (about a 16-18 inch opening)
Denim is unique because it is woven with two yarn colors: the indigo yarn and the "filler" yarn, which is un-dyed (turn your jeans inside out and see the white inside for yourself!)
Jeans were called "waist overalls" or just "overalls" until 1960 when Levi Strauss changed it to its popular name of "jeans."
Paper, Denim & Cloth
D & G
Levis
Polo
Tractor Jeans
Diesel
Lucky Brand
Pepe
DKNY
Guess
Mudd
Frankie B
Earl Jeans
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Silver Jeans
Seven
Energie
AG Jeans
Juicy Couture
Sherman Jeans
WEIRD YET TRUE
In a perfect fashion world, the first pair of jeans tried on would fit like a glove.
But in the real world, inseams are too short, waistbands pinch and button flys don't quite close.
There are really two issues when it comes to finding the best pair of jeans for your figure: finding a pair that fits and finding a pair that flatters.
Okay, let's get one thing straight: just because you can zip up a pair of jeans, it doesn't mean that they fit.
A reason behind finding the right pair of jeans is because there are so many parts to the design that require to fit, including the waist, thigh, length, inseam, backside.
All it takes is one of these areas to fall short and the fit is a wash.
TIPS FOR FIT
Look for a waist that buttons or snaps easily (laying down on the bed to do it doesn't count). For low-rise jeans, make sure they don't bind or you'll create a "roll" effect over the top.
The crotch/back seam portion should fit comfortably without grabbing.
Make sure the jeans are long enough to wear with whatever you have planned to go with them, including boots or heels. They should reach the top of your footwear in the front. There are angled hems in jeans as well which keep you from wearing out the back of the hem.
Big bottom - Avoid skin-tight styles and any extra embellishment on the back (like the new popular vintage treatments that make the butt area look worn).
Choose pockets that are proportionally sized and spaced (too small and wide spaced will make your backside look even broader).
Styles with a slight flare or ankle interest (vents, embellishment, etc.) will balance out your lush figure.
Low-rise jeans can also flatter your bottom (The JLo trick)
Ample tummy - Never ever buy pleats. Choose five-pocket styles or jeans with slash pockets on the diagonal.
Look for stretch jeans (that aren't snug) for some give. Elastic waists may feel comfy, but the denim bunches below the elastic and adds unwanted inches.
Heavy thighs -- Go for a style that skims (but doesn't hug) your leg. Flares and boot cuts are good because they elongate the leg and give some heft to the ankle area to even out proportions. The worst? Peg legs, stretch jeans that fit skin tight and baggy jeans with no shape.
Tall & thin-- Try the new retro peg leg (very narrow ankle opening) or extra low-rise styles to show off your flat tummy and slim hips.
Short legs -- Slim-fit styles with a slight flare make your legs look longer. Avoid cuffs and peg legs.
Heavy, stiffer fabrics (right-hand twills) won't hang as well on your body. Look for softer weaves and washes that will drape your lower body.
A slight flare looks good on just about every body type.
The darker the denim, the thinner you will look. Conversely, you'll look larger in lighter washes (and the new treatments that make you new jeans look old that feature "worn" areas will highlight your figure wherever they are -- like the backside of your jeans; the folds of the crotch, etc.)
For guys, close-fit is definitely not a good choice, try
the not-so
baggy like
THE LOOK WE CRAVE FOR
HAPPY SURFING!
CREDITS (SOURCES)
http://www2.gol.com/users/bobkeim/Garment/jeansintro.html
http://www.umkc.edu/imc/jeans.htm
http://www.rochesterclothing.com
http://www.marshallsclothingcompany.com
