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Embroidery Definitions - Part 2
(By Adalacia the Serene as appeared in the August 1995 Bolt)

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Embroidery Definitions - Part 2:

Continued from July 1995:

Batuz Work - A manner of ornamenting embroidery now obsolete, but much used by the earliest workers withthe needle. It was technically known as "silk beaten with silver and gold" and sometimes called "hammered up gold". Batuz work was very  prevalent in medieval times and often mentioned in ecclesiastical inventories and royal wills from the eleventh to fifteenth centuries. It consisted of sewing upon silk as part of a pattern embroidered, very thin plates of gold, silver or silver gilt. These plates were frequently hammered into low relief representing animals, flowers or heraldic devices. batuz was largely used in England, but was know on the Continent.

Cordova Lace - The name of a stitch or filling used in both ancient and modern needle point.

Cord Stitch - A decorative needle stitch sometimes called Cording, Cord stitch is also used in working Bars in modern Point Lace and Damascene Lace when the Bars are not finished with button holes.

Danish Embroidery - This is an embroidery upon cambric, muslin, or batiste and is suitable for handkerchief borders, necktie ends and cap lappets.

Fishscale Embroidery - This kind of work is extremely effective as an ornament where it is not liable to friction and is a variety to ordinary embroideries. It is worked upon silk, satin, or velvet foundations from flower patterns such as used in Crewel Work or Silk Embroidery. The principal parts of the design, such as flowers, leaves, butterflies, birds are covered over with brightly tinted fish scales sewn to the foundation with colored silk. The stems, veins, tendrils and other fine traceries are worked in satin stitch with fine chenille, gold thread, or filosele, and the center to flowers ect., filled in with French knots, beads, pearls or spangles.

Guipure Renaissance - An embroidery worked in imitation of the TAPE Guipure Laces and made with cheese cloth, ecru colored cords of various sizes and ecru sewing silk. The work is used for mats adn furniture lace.

Hodden Grey - The work Hodden is evidently derived from Hoiden, or rustic and clownish, and thus descriptive of material worn by the peasantry. Hodden Grey is a cloth peculiar to Scotland and made from natural undyed fleece. A black lamb is usually kept for the manufacture of this cloth in farming districts as it's wool is very suitable.

Inkle - A kind of linen tape or braid employed in the sixteenth century as a trimming and worn on soldier's uniforms. It was made in different colors - plain yellow, plain white, or striped inblue and pink or blue and red. It was much worn by the peasantry as a trimming for dresses and hats. The term Inkle had likewise another signification inearly times. It was a particular kind of crewel or worsted with which flowers and other designs were embroidered. Inkle used to appear in the list of customs duties described as "wrought" and "unwrought" inkle, or the plain or embroidered varities.

Jours - A term used by lacemakers to denote the open stitches that form the fillings of flowers in Needle and Pillow laces.

Lawn - This name designates a delicate linen orginally of French manufacture. It was first introduced into England in the reign of Queen Elizabeth when it was employed in the making of skirts, handkerchiefs, ruffles and ruff. Lawn closely resembles cambric, but is thinner and finer. The thread employed inthe weaving is made so as to be as cylindrical as possible and is not pressed so much as the cotton thread used for calicoes.

Mechlin Embroidery - A term applied to Mechlin Lace as the thread that was inserted around the outlines of the lace gave it somewhat the look of embroidery.

Mistress of Arts and Sciences
Adalacia the Serene

*** This is continued in the September 1995 Issue of the Bolt ***

 Page last updated 12/15/99