More on Sanding Beads
I’ve learned to use the sandpaper’s somewhat stiff properties to assist my
sanding effort. For example, for a round bead, I’ll fold the sandpaper so
that it conforms to the shape of the bead.
Tube beads are the easiest to sand
The same technique is used for tube beads, and most other curved beads. Flat
beads are the easiest as you simply sand them on a flat surface.
The best tool when sanding is your own fingertip, use it to feel for ridges
and bumps, sand those out. Once the item is smooth, then it’s time to move
up to the next highest grit. Commonly used grits for polymer clay are:
400
600
Optional: 800
Wet/Dry sandpaper for sanding polymer clay
It’s not always necessary to sand above 600 grit, I usually don’t. It depends on
your plans for the final finish for the project. Going up to the higher grits
can produce a nice shine, but if you plan on using a buffing wheel, you can
probably produce that shine using the buffer. The best thing to do is to
experiment and find what works best for you.
When sanding you can do it under of running water for convenience,
although if you fill a big bowl part way with warm water and a dash of dish
soap, which helps wash away the polymer dust from the sandpaper. The water
cuts down on polymer dust and helps unclog the sandpaper. The dish soap also
adds some surface tension for sanding. Once the sandpaper gets clogged, dip
it in the water and use a toothbrush to remove the grit. You’ll know when
it’s time to replace the sandpaper with new, as it
will lose its effectiveness.
Sanding Tips
Sanding while standing can cause a couple of problems. Water gets cold, your
feet or back may get sore leaning over the sink in the kitchen, and your
wrists can become sore. Sanding small items such as beads can also hurt the
tips of your fingers. You may want to wear fitted gloves.
~The easiest adjustment is to keep the sanding water warm, remember
a bit of liquid soap to keep the grit from adhering
to your sand
paper.
~Change your sandpaper from time to time to keep a good tooth on them or you'll
be making more work for yourself.
~Use the coarsest sand paper (I advise 250 or 300) only to effect shape, don't
be shy to get that bump leveled, the fewer passes will be needed with the
finest sand paper. Using the finer grits isn't for shaping, they are for
smoothing what you've already shaped.
~It will help to move your sanding to a location where you can sit down if you
have several items to sand. Standing at the kitchen sink for a long while
may bother you. Also, try not to have to reach up or reach down too
far to prevent sore arms.
~Don't hold the bead any harder than it needs just to stay put.
~Sometimes you can find sand paper that has faom attached ot the back, just make
sure it is around the correct grit needed for polymer clay and can be used
in water. I've heard of people holding a foam filled, cotton lined shoulder
pad and putting the sand paper over it. Then put the round clay bowl or pot
on the sand paper and SURROUND the pot gently by squeezing the foam pad. You
can also roll up the shoulder pad, wrap the sand paper around it and sand
smaler curved areas with ease, using one hand. The foam gives to the
pressure and I find this prevents "flattened" areas where we've sanded
against a hard surface, or our finger tips pressed on one area more than
others. Using a pad can prevent movements that hurts carpel tunnel syndrome.
~For round items like beads or curved shapes, sand in a circular motion.
~Some people string tube beads with dental floss or pierce onto a skewer and
leave them secured to the skewer to sand, placing them in a row. Hold the
roll of beads in the sandpaper and foam and pull them through while they are
embraced gently. Dip the roll of beads in a container of Future floor wax
and drape (or tie) the ends to something sturdy while drying the beads over
a covered work surface. For smaller hole beads I love my bead baking
and drying rack tool.
