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Vintage Photos Collage Mobile

Materials

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~Transfer Artist Paper (TAP) by C&T Publishing

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~Create With transfer Artist Paper book (Optional but
so helpful!) by C&T Publishing
~Ivory squares of felt (premade at the craft store) or by
the yard at a fabric store

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~3-4 yards 1" to 1 1/2" wide twill tape (a woven flat type of ribbon)
~One 6" round wood embroidery hoop
~White tacky glue
~E6000 or Goop all-purpose clear glue (in tube)
~Brown embroidery floss
~Sewing needle with eye large enough for embroidery floss
~Six old photos (Optional step: Change to sepia tone in
Photoshop or print in gray tones)
~Antique brass jewelry: 6 bead caps, 1 yard large size chain, 3 large
oval necklace rings, 1 large round necklace ring and a variety
of flat filigree pieces in different sizes
~Sewing tape measure
~2 pairs needle nose (or chain nose) pliers (or 1 pair and a jump ring tool)
~Iron and hard ironing surface with a pressing cloth or t-towel over it
~Photoshop program to tint old photos (Optional!)


Note: You will make two images for each photo, one facing right and one
left. The reason for double sided mobile images is that it will spin and
you want it too look good on both sides as it does.

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1. You can convert online old photos to “sepia tone” (brown tones) on
Photoshop (instructions are online many places), then add additional
light color tinting to photos on a low color %, with the appropriate
brush size. Keep those colors light (almost transparent).

2. If you are using real photos, scan them. If you’d like sepia tone photos,
and have a photo editing program, follow instructions found online, just search.

3. If black and white (gray tones) are desired, set your printing setting to “Gray Tones”.
For sepia photos, print on a normal color setting. Print out the pages onto the Transfer
Artist Paper, on regular or everyday print mode, feeding one paper at a time into
printer, to print on the white, slightly textured side. Be careful not to scratch
the white coating off at this point.

4. With the iron set to cotton or linen (usually the hottest setting), firmly iron the page of
images onto the smoothest side of the felt, on a hard t-towel covered surface, moving
the iron constantly but slowly. Iron for about 1 minute if the whole page is being ironed
at once. If the images are cut out (leave ¼” white border around each), iron one image
for 30-40 seconds. You can tell when the transfer is complete when the paper starts
to barely lift on an edge and you see some color coming through the top (back
side actually) of the transfer. Bend the felt away from image edge and it should
separate, then just pull off the backing slowly. If it starts to stick, let go of
transfer and iron another 10 seconds and try to lift again.

5. When you cut out the shapes, just cut around each photo's straight edge with "deckle"
fancy scissors, about 1/8” from the photo edge, to give them a vintage look. Cut six,
18”-20” (depending on photo size) strips of twill tape. Plan out the image positions
so that they are staggered (see finished mobile).

6. Squeeze some fabric glue onto a plastic lid or similar palette. Do not squeeze
the glue directly onto the felt as it may bleed through. (I use Fabric Fusion clear
glue in a bottle). Spread out a thin layer of fabric glue on the felt of the bottom
image, (felt side up). Place the twill down the center. Add glue to the felt side
of the matching top image and place it (print side up) over the twill, lining up
the image edges. Press in place and try not to shift the images. Allow to dry.

7. Secure various sized flat, antique brass filigree shapes to the twill using E-6000
sparingly! I tried to match the brass design to the photo whenever possible. I then
added small, brass, filigree to both sides of the bottom of the twill, for added
interest. Clip the twill ends evenly in a V shape if desired. Allow adhesive to
dry flat, for a few hours.

8. Hand stitch around the photos, on the thin cream edge, using
embroidery floss, right through the twill aslo with a simple
in and out stitch, about 1/4" wide on each side.

9. Separate the two rings of the wood hoop by unscrewing the tightener.
Secure a straight 3/4" area of the top of the twill to the the INSIDE of
the INNER wood hoop and fold it over 1/4" to the OUTSIDE of the
same inner wood hoop, using tacky glue. Cut edges will be
concealed by the outer wood hoop later.

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10. Repeat to add 5 more evenly spaced (use a tape measure) twill strips
(I used six photos as even numbers are best when spacing them apart..

11. Secure two bead caps, leaving a 1/16" area between them, centered
in-between two strips of twill, with E-6000 adhesive. Let each set dry,
propped up. When dry, secure two more sets of bead caps spaced
evenly around the hoop.

12. If the necklace rings are solid, clip through the ring and open as
a jumpring, secure over the wood hoops between two bead caps
and close ring using needle nose pliers. (Refer to photo above.)

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13. Add one larger brass filigree shape to each chain (only two are shown),
in different positions. Cut all three chains to the exactly same length, then
attach the top link of each to the round necklace ring. The chain links
usually open, find the seam and use pliers to open just as you would
a jump ring, using 2 pairs of needle nose pliers.