*Question: Curved Tile Brooch" pg. 39
A reader asked: In step 9 do you cover the piece with a thin layer of frost clay, securing it with a thin layer of translucent liquid clay, then trim off excess. I ask because, in step 10 it says after you secure the "frost" clay, you then lightly sand the frost surface. Shouldn't you bake the clay at this point before sanding?
Answer: YES! On page 39, at the end of step 9 I should have added: "Bake the clay piece for 10 min. at the recommended temperature for the brand of clay you are using for translucent type clays". Thanks for catching that!
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*Question: "Curved Tile Bracelet" pg. 57
Someone aksed: "I don't think I am not following the transfer process, I seem to be missing a step in the where it says to peel off the paper???? Once you have made the 1" tiles do you bake the Avery transfers on to the raw tile, if so how do you burnish and secure them without messing up the tiles or do you make another raw strip, burnish the transfer to that layer and add to raw tile??? Please let me know."
Shirley's Jan. 2010 Updated Answer:
**NEW INFO ON THIS TOPIC: Avery brand Item #3271 (6 pk.), #3275 (12 pk.), #8938 (18 pk.), #8939 and #4271 transfer paper for light and white fabrics has sadly changed it's product. The new sheets do NOT peel off from the backing (so you can no longer press the image face up onto raw clay) as stated in my book, and therefore can NOT be used with my book transfer technique any longer. They CAN however be used with
I plan to contact Avery and ask for the old style! I'll post when I do.
"IF" you have some of the OLD product, the following characteristics and instructions will apply:
The top layer of the transfer paper is a thin layer of a somewhat stretchy almost rubbery film that peels right off the somewhat waxy backing release paper. (Also refer the large photo on the top of page 51 showing a separating t-shirt transfer image.) Once ink is dry, just roll your finger, on the printed side, from any corner square inward and it will separate and easily pull apart. It then sticks to raw clay very easily. Place it "face up" on the clay.
Also, in step 4 about half way through it says "Center the image....." It should really say, "Center the flexible transfer image, design side up, over a clay tile........."
Notice I used the phrase "smooth the image here, gently rubbing the surface" for the bracelet as the image is not literally transferred to the tiles, but heat-fused instead. There's no 'burnishing' in the usual clay sense needed as in other transfer techniques, so there is no distortion of the clay tiles.
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Shirley's Additional Answer:
I just had an "aw ha" moment upon reading the instructions that come with the t-shirt transfer package. I can see how if someone tried to follow those instructions how they would reverse the image and try to get the paper off after baking. This is not the correct technique.
I re-read step one of my "Love Letters Collage Pin" and it has the correct, more complete phrasing. It mentions printing on t-shirt transfer paper with an inkjet printer, and peeling the image off the backing paper before baking and placing the image "face up" on the white clay. (It is different though from the tile bracelet, in that you leave a fairly good sized white border around it (only for Collage Pin) so that you can silhouette cut the lady through the woman transfer and the clay, while hot, after baking.
In the curved tile bracelet you cut the images without a white border, I did them slightly smaller on each side of the clay bracelet tile. There is no trimming after baking in other words, you just wrap the top and bottom transfer edges under the clay tile to secure it.
I will send in the "Curved Tile Bracelet" omitted text to my editor for the re-print, thanks again for bringing it to my attention, I want these emails!! And sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused. (So no rubbing and no water is needed)
P.S. The Avery package covers have changed two times since I started using them.
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