Photocentric Website

Instructions

How To Create Embossing Sheets

1. Create or choose a 4" x 2 1/2" copyright free black and white designs.
I add several small designs to fit into that size). Make a full page of
same size designs to save tranparencies, leaving at least 1/4" space
between designs and 1/2" free space around the page border.

2. Using a photo program (such as photoshop etc.) or the included CD
program), change the contrast setting to the highest possible setting to make
very dark and very white image. The black ink must print solid black.


3. Print page onto the treated side of the Photocentric inkjet or
laser transparency. Follow directions on the package. Cut around each
4" x 2 1/2" design to separate them (see one cut out design in step 4. (This
photo show the clamp pieces you will use in the next step.)


4. Place the thin rubber mat (included with the embossing started kit)
inside the black framed side of the clamp and place a gel packet (SOFT
SIDE UP) on the rubber mat. The imagpac word will appear backwords
on the edge of gel pack. Now add the transparency design, face down,
centered over the gel pack and secure the top of the clamp. The magnets
will click as they pull togehter.


5. Follow the timing to expose the clamp inside the UV Stampmaker
machine for "Embossing Plates" which will be 2 min. to harden the design.


6. Make sure to pull the clear top sheet off that is next to the side with
the soft gooey gel! Wash and gently scrub off the extra gel from the embossing
plate using warm water and liquid dish soap.


7. You will then expose the plate 2 more minutes to dry in a water
bath. Rinse and dry the plastic design sheet.


Using Embossing Sheets on Clay

1. Begin conditoning white polymer clay, by warming it in your hands
and rolling through a clay machine or with a rolling pin. When it is
pliable, roll it to about 1/8" thick (the second thickest machine setting).


2. If you desire a background color on your jewelry, rub your finger once
over your chosen PanPastel chalk color, tap finger on a paper towel to
remove excess then rub one color (background) evenly over
the entire sheet of clay. Use more chalk as needed.


3. If you want to use just a portion of the plate, such as one texture
design, cut the clay in three pieces (left photo). Spritz the embossing
sheet with water (on the tinted side). Secure just the bottom edge of one
third of the clay (or the white sheet-right photo), color side against the
plate), to the bottom edge of the embossing sheet. Pass them through the clay machine
together on the third thickest setting.


4. Choice A: Separate the two pieces slowly. If tinting just the design,
rub finger over chalk once, tap off excess and rub over the area to be
tinted. Repeat for reamining colors.


4. Choice B: Separate the two pieces slowly. Repeat texturing the remaining
two clay pieces. Rub your finger just once over a chalk color, tap once on a
paper towel to remove excess and then tap the design colors firmly and
quickly on the clay texture in random areas. Repeat using a second
(and maybe third) color of chalk.

*TIP: Clean the acrylic roller (clay machine rollers) well with a dry
paper towel EACH TIME you pass a chalked sheet of clay through.


5. Run the tinted clay through the clay machine at the fourth
thickest setting to thin it. (Clean roller!)


6. Form a separate sheet of white clay and run it through the rollers at
the fouth thickest setting. Place on teh bottom of the tinted sheet and
carefully secure without disturbing the design. Cut the bottom layer to
the same size as the tinted layer.


7. Now run both togehter at the second then
the third thickest clay machine setting to smooth the texture flat.



8. Use the pendant and earring settings upside down pressed into the clay
to create the shapes. If a domed effect is desired, press a small ball of
tinted scrap clay (or larger ball for the pendant) in the setting first.
Then, using a dull craft knife, slide it under the shapes and secure them
into the settings, tinted side up. (They will bake togehter but will
be re-glued into place later on.)


9. Press in any Swarovski crystal elements at this point. (They can bake in
the clay but MAY need regluing later.) Bake the clay in the settings for the
recommended time and temperature as directed for the clay brand you are
using and allow to cool in the settings. Remove the clay, carefully
pulling up on a few edges. Use a thin knife if needed. Glaze the clay if
desired avoiding the stones and allow to dry. Glue into settings with E6000
or Goop glue and allow to dry overnight.


Taking Apart and Assembling the Jewelry

Note: The fashion Art bracelets are size large. If you desire a medium or
small size, links can be easily removed (see instructions below) and used
for rings, or a second smaller layer on a pendant.


1. Using round nose pliers, open the rounded connector between two
round bracelet setting links. Now place the clasp ring into the last
bracelet connector and close with needle nose pliers. To take out a
square link, simply open the jump ring with needle nose pliers, slide it
out of the silver tube on the back and replace ring onto the last bracelet link.


2. To make rings, simply use a round link by adding extra similar color of
clay into the end loops and pressing crystal stones in the center of each
(see first photo step 9 above). When baked and cooled, glue the clay and
the stone back in place and glue the setting to a flat pad silver color
ring. Allow to dry propped up straight between scraps of clay. For square
links, measure your finger, then run a doubled string of clear elastic cord
into both loops and tie in a secure triple knot. Add a dab of gllue to the
knot (E6000, Good or Superglue) and let dry. Trim the elastic ends. Add
another dab of glue to the knot and pull it into one of the silver
tubes to dry. All four strand go over your finger.




3. Forming an eyepin for a bead can be a challenge. Practice is important.
Bend a jewelry pin 1/4" from the end to a 90o angle away from you, with
needle nose pleirs (all steps are shown larger in photo). Clasp the bent end
with round nose pliers about 1/8" from the pliers tip and curl it towards
you (see fourth photo). Add the bead, then clip the pin length leaving 1/4"
above the bead. Carefully bend the pin at a 90o angle and curl as before.
Open the loop, insert into link loop and close with needle nose pliers.

More Ideas

You can also use the pendant settings for other items such as keychains. I
used a Sculpey face mold with Beige (#5092) to form the woman's face charm.
Form a pointed cone and press the tip into the nose area of the mold. Before
baking I used a tiny liner brush dipped into the chalk colors to add the
make up. After baking, keychains need a few coats of glaze to protect them
as they will get a lot of wear and tear while using.