Materials for ALL Projects
~Premo! Sculpey® polymer clay in chosen colors (*Polyform Products)
~Premo! Sculpey® Metallic 6 Color Glitter Set #AMEGS (Polyform)
~Premo! Sculpey® Custom Bead Cores-50 pc. large hole silver bead
cores #AS2024 (*Polyform)
~Translucent Liquid Sculpey® liquid clay aka TLS (*Polyform)
~WireLace® in various coordinating 3mm wide colors-listed below
with specific projects (**Alacarte Clasps)
~Alacarte Clasps™ with SWAROVSKI Crystal Stones in various nickel-free
Rhodium plated finish-styles, customize your crystal
colors-listed with projects (**Alacarte Clasps)
~Polyester fiberfill or batting (small amojunt-in bags in fabric section)
~1mm rattail cord (satin look thin cording)-colors listed with projects
~1/8" rattail cord for thicker braids (i.e. black and white necklace)
~Medium weight stringing wire (used on Aqua & Purple Bracelet/Earrings set)
~Two-Part epoxy glue (I used a 5 minute drying time type)
~GS Hypo Cement (glue in small red or yellow box-has extra fine tip)
~Small, tight book clip or office clip
~A piece of art board or mat board (can not be bent), about 9" x 12"
Tools
~Sculpey® Clay Mat-non stick and non-skid silicone #ASCMT (*Polyform)
~Sculpey® Clay Conditioning Machine #CLAYMACH (*Polyform)
~Sculpey® Acrylic Roller tool #AS8AR (*Polyform)
~Sculpey® Etch 'N Pearl 3 Metal Skewer Sizes #ASETPL (*Polyform)
~Sculpey® Super Slicers with Comfort (& safety) Handles #ASBSET (*Polyform)
~Sculpey® Flowers 'N Leaves Push Mold #APM75 (*Polyform)
~Premo! Sculpey® Mini Metal Cutters-Basic Shapes #AAMC (*Polyform)
~Premo! Sculpey® Mini Metal Cutters-Wedding Set #AMM1015 (*Polyform)
~Sculpey® Clay Template-measures balls of oven bake clay (*Polyform)
~Sculpey® Texture Maker Swirls Pattern #ASTM003 (*Polyform)
~Sculpey® Alphabet Stamper #ASCSA01 (*Polyform)
~Paintbrush (#6) or large style wood skewer that secures a bead tightly
~Smooth ceramic tile at least 5" x 7" or larger
~Chain Nose pliers
~A second chain nose or needle nose pliers (or a jump ring tool-helpful)
~Large hole yarn needle
~Small pointed scissors
~Fine mist spritz bottle of water (if using texture sheet)
*To find more information and lots of free project ideas, visit the
Here's How To Make Beautiful Jewelry
First Things First
Before beginning your design, if you will be braiding your cord, the
first consideration for your jewelry is the color of WireLace and the
jewelry end cap size. This will determaine the size of stringing wire or
rattail cord to use to fit the bead core beads the best. You will also want
to decide which colors of clay to mix, to match or coordinate with the
WireLace colors. I often use two, 2 yard lengths of 1mm rattail cord, each
threaded though 3mm WireLace. You will want your end caps or cones to have
a hole, opening or tube to fit snugly over this size braid. For example,
the center photo shows 4mm round end caps which fit a over braided cord that
has medium weight stringing wire through it (see left photo). Also see
"Treating the WireLace Cording Ends" below to prevent fraying.
Basic European Bead Making Instructions
1. Condition the clay colors you have chosen as you mix special colors,
kneading the lightest colors first. Wash your hands between colors.
Flatten each color into a 1/8" thick sheet (thickest pasta machine
setting) or with a roller tool. Choose a small shape cutter (any shape)
that you will use to keep each bead uniform in size. I chose the "Basics
Set" rectangle mini metal cutter. I cut 2 rectangle shapes for largest
beads, 1 1/2 rectangles for large beads, 1 rectangle for medium beads and
3/4 of a rectangle for smallest beads. One exception is an extra large
focal bead which I used 3 shapes (Rhinestone Encrusted Ocean).
2. Roll the clay shapes into smooth balls with no seams or cracks.
To start the bead hole, press the smallest Etch ‘N Pearl tool tip
straight down through the CENTER of the bead while it’s on your work
surface. Turn the bead over and insert the tool in the opposite end and
through the bead. Now use the largest Etch ‘N Pearl tool and twist the bead
while inserting it all the way till you reach 1” from the fattest end of the
tool. This will form a large hole for the bead cores. Twist bead
while removing it from the tool.
3. Slide a bead core onto a (approx. #6) paintbrush (or large skewer) handle end, narrow
side up. Slide on the clay bead until it touches the bead core. Reshape the
bead as it may be slightly lopsided. Add a second bead core with narrow
side down and press into bead, twisting as you press. Shape bead if it isn't even.
Embellishing Your Beads
1. You can roll the beads (while secured to the handle), onto a water
spritzed Texture Maker (Swirls Pattern) sheet for texture.
2. To add Swarovski crystal stones (while the bead is still on the
handle), add a thin layer of TLS to clay bead and press the stones securely
in place. Note: If covering a bead with glitter, that contains crystals, do
this AFTER the stones are in place. Then brush excess glitter from stones
with a soft paintbrush before and after baking.
3. Adding glitter creates a beautiful shimmer to beads. Apply a few drops
of TLS to bead and coat with a thin layer. Tap glitter onto bead with finger
or use a soft paintbrush to apply. You can also tap random areas of your
bead with TLS (see step 4 photo-under ropes) with finger
and add patches of glitter.
4. For the ropes on the Tanzanite beads, use a 3/8” ball rolled into
a very thin rope, add TLS to rope, wrap twice around the bead and add
more glitter to the rope. Use the end of your thumb nail to push the
bead off of the handle. Glitter is also added to the swirl textured
beads on the "Shimmering Necklace with TLS after texture is added.
Millefiori Clay Cane Techniques (Aqua
and Purple Translucent & Black and White Stripes)
1. Condition and roll and smooth ball from 1/2 cube of Blue Translucent
(or Black) and 1/2 cube of "Translucent Purple"-recipe below, (or White)
and roll on the thickest pasta machine setting or to 1/8" thick with
acrylic roller tool. Layer one color right on top of the other (either
color can be on top). Cut off the rounded edges so you have a rectangle,
then cut the rectangle in half width-wise to have two squares. Stack the
two squares evenly, the cut that stack in half and stack the two pieces
again. You should now have a stack of eight stripes high.
2. Cut the stack in half and stack one on top of the other. Shape the
cane so that you have even side edges (photo on right).
3. Lay the cane on it's side (see left photo), and gently begin to push
the ends together so your cane becomes fatter. Cut it in half
LENGTHWISE this time as shown, to have 16 stripes. Place one piece on the
END (beside) the other one piece so you now have 32 stripes in your cane.
Gently Push the ends towards the middle to form approximately a 1 1/2"
long cane. Whew, good job! Slice one 1/32" slice off of the best end of the
cane. If the stripes are still too distorted (which is normal) cut off 1-2
more 1/32" slices. Form the inside of the bead with either color of your
original clay cube (or even scrap clay-as it will be hidden). Roll this clay
at the thickest setting (or to 1/8") and cut 1 1/2 shapes with chosen
cutter. Roll clay onto a ball, cut off a 1/16" thick cane slice and wrap it
around the ball. Let cane ends just touch but not overlap. Trim the slice
if necessary. Or if the cane slice is too short, add a section of a cane
slice to fill it in, but not overlap the cane end. Use 1 cut shape
for each EARRING and cover with slice(s) as above.
4. Pinch the bead cane ends gently together until you have closed them
up over the base bead. Press the ends inward to make the shape rounder,
then gently without too much pressure roll the ball between the palms of
your hands until it is round. Add bead cores as directed above in
"Basic European Bead Making" and bake the beads as directed on the clay
brand package you are using.
Bull's Eye Cane
1. Roll 1/16 cube of conditioned White clay into a smooth ball. Now roll
the ball into a short (1" long) log shape. Run a smooth ball of black
clay (form 1/8 cube) at the thickest clay machine setting or with an
acrylic roller to 1/8" thick. Place on ceramic tile and cut to the width
of the log with craft knife or blade. Place the log on the black sheet and
roll it until it touches itself. Pull the log back a little and cut
where the line was created so edges just meet and do not overlap.
2. Roll the log thinner ("reduce" it) until it is 1/8-3/16" in diameter. You
can cut in half at any time if it gets to long to handle. Set half of
the cane into the freezer for no more then 5 minutes to allow it to become
firm. Remove, then using your slicing blade, slice off 1/32" thick slices
and place them onto a ball of clay (made from cut shapes). The number
of shapes determines the bead size. You can form a ring of dots (left photo)
or place them all over bead evenly spaced (right photo).
3. Since this technique is called Millefiori (a thousand flowers), I'll
explain you how to make a flower. All you do is wrap a chosen center color
(1/16 cube blue here) with a black log, reduce the log to 1/4" diameter,
Cut your black and white bull's eye into six pieces the same length as the
center log and press them around it lengthwise as shown (left photo).
To keep the petals from flattening around the outside, roll a 1/16" rope
of blue clay (same color as bead-blue in this case), cut 6 pieces the
length of the cane and place them between the petals (not shown).
4. Reduce the cane diameter to about 3/16" to 1/4" by rolling on
your tile evenly. Cut 1/32" slices off cane with slicer blade and press
them, spacing them evenly, around bead (I used 1 1/2 cut shapes for
these blue beads). Roll the bead smooth and pierce hole and
add bead core as instructed above.
Premo! Sculpey COLOR RECIPES to Match WireLace
*TANZANITE (Shimmering Necklace): Mix together 1/12th of a cube of
Ultramarine Blue Hue Premo (#PE15562) with a 1/2” BALL of
Purple (#PE025513) + 1/4” BALL of Black (#PE02 5042) This
recipe can be doubled or tripled if a larger amount of clay is needed.
*DUSTY ROSE (Double rope rapped beads on 'Shimmering Necklace'): Mix
1 part Magenta pearl (#PE025029) + 1 equal part White (#PE025001)
Premo! Sculpey) in any amount.
*TRANSLUCENT PURPLE ("Bracelet with Matching Earrings"): 1/8 cube
of Frost (#PE15317) + 1/4" BALL of Purple Premo (#PE15513)
1. Of course you can make any type of projects with the techniques described
in these instructions, even bookmarks. I used a mini metal Heart Cutter
from the new Sculpey Wedding Cutter Set.
2. I also stamped the word READ using the Sculpey Alphabet Stamper.
Letters rotate for custom words. Jsut spritz the clay with water and press
onto the heart shape. I added a jump ring to the top and bottom before
baking. When cool, I painted the heart with silver Lumiere paint
to fill indented areas.
Jewelry Assembly & Correct Findings
~Depending on the WireLace size and style, differnt jewelry end caps
and clasps are recommended. The picture above the title, shows two loose
side-by-side strands of 3mm WireLace (Tanzanote and Lilac) with purple
3mm rattail cord inserted into each using a large hole blunt yarn needle.
The ends are treated (See "Treating the WireLace Cording Ends" below) and
"fold-ever clamp ends" are secured with 2-part epoxy glue. Squeeze ends
with chain nose pliers. Alacarte's high quality rhodium plated Teardrop
Clasp is used with a Tanzanite Swarovski teardrop crystal stone glued into
it with GS Hypo Cement glue.
The left photo shows how to thread medium weight stringing wire
into 3mm WireLace using a yarn needle. The center photo shows three
braided cords in progress, the first with stringing wire, the second with
1mm rattail and the third with 3mm rattail. The result of a four-wire
stabilized WireLace cords, already braided, is shown in the right photo (the
first braid.) The braid in the center of the right photo is 3mm WireLace,
with 1mm rattail cord inserted into it. On the far right is just a
large 4-braid 'sample' to see the braid pattern up close. I used 3mm
Wirelace with 3mm rattail cord inserted (doesn't fit over bead cores).
For a necklace, I recommend using either two, 2 yard lengths of
1mm rattail cord inside WireLace; or one, 2 yard piece of 1mm cord and one, 2
yard piece of 3mm cord, braided to fit the braided cord more snug. In
the "Black & White Geometric Necklace and Earrings", you notice that
the beads 'fit' and stay spaced apart on their own.
Braided Cords
1. Cut two colors of 2 yard lengths of 1mm rattail cord for a necklace
(longer if making teardrop braided earrings also). Thread one cord
through the large needle. Open (slightly stretch in both directions) the
end of the same length of WireLace. You can use any color rattail
or a similar color as the WireLace.
2. Thread the needle with rattail cord (you'll use only one strand so pull
only about 4" of cord through needle). Keep needle straight down
while gently pulling the WireLace over the cord until it reaches the
end. Clip the end of WireLace with scissors and twist it to secure.
This photo shows a 4-braided cord diagram. Here are the instructions.
3. Fold both lengths of cording in half, cross one color over the other
and tie a small piece of 1mm rattail to secure them in the center (see
above right photo step 1). Place the top end at the top of your art
board and clip it in place, securely!
4. Your colors should be alternating now (seen in step 1). Step 2: Take
"A" cord (green) and run it under two cords ("B" and "C"). Step 3: Then
take the same "A" cord and wind it back over the "C" cord (green) to
the left and tighten up the braid by pulling the two cords on the right,
to the right and downward, and the two cords on the left,
to the left and downward.
5. For step 4, you will now try to do steps 2 and 3 in one motion. Take
cord "D" (purple) and run it under "C" and "A" (two center green
cords) and then back OVER just cord "A" (green). Repeat this one step,
alternating starting with the far right cord, then the far
left cord and keep going.
TIP: You will want to practice this braid before starting to use your
WireLace. If the rattail cord seems a bit slick, use some cotton or
matte/rougher type cording to practice with. Keep trying and it
will just click all of a sudden! It took me several tries!
Treating the WireLace Cording Ends
After braiding, the ends of the bracelet/necklace cord needs to be
treated. You will need to add epoxy glue to an approx. area of 3/8" long
to prevent the loose wire ends from fraying. Mix a small amount of both
epoxy parts together as directed on package, then add it around the
cord/braid, letting it seep into the cords. Allow the glue to dry! Then,
clip the end shorter through the glue. Mix some more epoxy glue and add a
dab to the inside of your end cap/cone and press in
end of your Wirelace/braid.
This Starry Night Clasp is similar to the one used on the Black & White
necklace, which was ordered with "Crystal" color stones. Alacarte Clasp
Swarovski stone colors can be customized in your clasps! This clasp has
a secure press-n-pull lever. Each clasp end has a loop to connect to the
loop on the end caps or cones, using small round or oval
jump rings with chain nose pliers.
Twist Clasps are great for bracelets as seen here. The slim style
feels comfortable on your wrist. Simply secure to bell end caps (shown
here) with a small jump ring at each end, using chain nose pliers.
Three Earring Designs
Earrings can also be created with European beads. The simplest design
was to open an extra large (approx. 1/2") jump ring, secure it through the
bead hole and a charm and close ring with chain nose pliers and a jump
ring tool (or 2 pairs of chain nose pliers). Then slip the bead onto an
earring hoop. These earrign can be intercheangeble by trading out the
bead/charm sets, for a change of color and style!
I used stringing wire threaded, braided WireLace for the second pair of
earrings above. After adding one bead, I glued both treated, braided
WireLace ends into a silver tube end cap with loop. Make sure the
hole is facing you. I then opened the hook on the french/fish hook
earwires, threaded the end cap loop onto the hook and closed the
earring loop with chain nose pliers.
For the hoop earrings, I used left over braid from the Black and White
Necklace which used one 1mm rattail cord and one 3mm rattail cords
inside WireLace. After adding one bead, I glued both treated, braided
WireLace ends into a silver cone end with loop. Make sure the hole is facing
you. I then slipped the cone loop over the earring hoop. Ths
style also remains intercheageble.
