My Book

My thanks go in many directions

To the Rotary, Rotaract Clubs and its Members, who adopted and cared for me as though I were their own. To the scores of individuals and families in every country on my route whose boundless hospitality taught me that for all the horrible chaos of the contemporary political scene this world is full of kind ness. To the chance friends I made in odd places, whose names I never knew or have forgotten but whose companionship made a sometimes-lonely journey much more pleasant. Indian Embassy Consular Officials, Indian Association members in all the capital cities, WWF offices, kind Villagers, Police and many more, who sometimes accommodated in their house and cared as a son. Last but certainly not least to Deborah Denhardt and Steven Drayton of WWF-International, Switzerland, who helped me throughout the expedition as a guide and helped me getting visas which was the most difficult task in my expedition.

I always used to think about the life, What is life? Billions and Billions of people live in this beautiful World. What does each one do? Living the life of a common human being! (Birth-Child-Student-Young-Job-Marry-Family-Old-Die). It’s a life cycle. What do we achieve in our life? What do we do in our life? Is it the same Life that we are living? What “ difference” does one make in this World? Billions and Billions of people live this kind of life and die. Among those Billions most of them lead inhuman lives. We should be doing something different in our life. Definitely each one can make the difference in this World. There are lots of things that we can do and become different from the crowd of Billions. Each one should try to reach such a height that everyone should be proud of and we will be satisfied for making the difference in this world. Discovery Channel was the great inspirer for me, which shows the adventures documentary films. The feeling of doing something “differently ” inspired me to set out on the expedition of spreading the message of world solidarity, conservation of our environment, protection of the endangered species, and prevention of cruelty towards humans and animals.

About Myself: I am an athlete and played for my University on all India level, in long distance running for five times. I won many half-marathon events at my hometown (Aurangabad in Maharashtra state) and outside too. I studied Bachelor of Science with Geology. Since childhood I was interested in doing something different in life. That brought me in sports. The Discovery channel always inspired me when I saw people play with their lives doing adventures and even to make the world a better place to live in. Looking at the environmental degradation and animal cruelty, I always feel to do something on these issues. I did not begin my journey for the sake of adventure. I wanted to do something worthwhile; at the same time I didn’t “want adventure for nothing.”

However, I kept my ambition to myself, avoiding the tolerant amusement it would have provoked among my elders. I did not want to be soothingly assured that this was a passing whim because I was quite confident that one day I would walk to Australia during the Olympics.

The decision was taken at the beginning of 1998, the time when I was totally alone. I loved my mother a lot but she left me alone in this world. Those days I came across a documentary showed on Discovery Channel, two Russian men came to India (New Delhi) with minimum spending by hitch- hiking on bus and trucks. On my part, initially money was the obstacle to start but the news hit at the right time. My mother’s death made me lonely and depressed and I decided to work out the Expedition Program.

I decided to stay out of house, away from elder brothers and father. The main reason of staying out was to try to go under all possible conditions. As I was a long distance runner, I started practicing harder, I made myself strong enough to accept any kind of challenge for the expedition. I worked hard to achieve. I bought map books and Information book on South Asia. Studied the countries profile and planned the expedition program. I choose South Asian Countries and Australia because my goal was to reach at the Olympic 2000 in Sydney (being an Athlete, I felt I should do something different on the special and Century’s last Olympic and deliver the message all over the world).

Most of the time was spent bending over maps, working out the distances between towns, which had intoxicatingly improbable names. I calculated that it was almost around 20,000 Km total distance. But actual distance was around 17,000 Km (Because of Sea portion). The End of the expedition was in Sydney by the Olympic 2000. The planning was made so meticulously that I could have told you without hesitation where I planned to be on any given date between 15th September to 30th September 2000.

I had planned a route to Sydney (Australia) through, India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and Finally Australia. My plan was to deliver the message during Olympic 2000 all over the world. At the same time thought of doing something, which will satisfy me. Since school days I was very much involved in nature activity and kind to animals. I did project work and camps for environment protection. So I thought of walking under WWF banner. I was the member of WWF since my school days.

I was intended to get WWF’s support (Not financial) but for a letter, with which I will get easy entry at the schools and social gatherings to speak and spread the environmental message. The message that I carried and become my mission statement was: “Save the Earth, Save the Animals and support WWF.”

Days spent on the net in search of the right person to help me on WWF part and finally I got the success. One bright day I got a mail stating I should contact WWF-International for the support there was a Phone number along with the message. The same day I called up WWF-International at their Switzerland office, at around 8 O’clock at night and spoke to the receptionist. I introduced myself to her and requested her for the fax number. She enquired me for what purpose I need it. I was not having enough money to explain her in brief. I kept the receiver replying her little about the purpose and said, “I finished my money and would call back the next day.” The third day I called up and got the fax number that time the receptionist didn’t enquired much. She must have thought something and believed on me as a genuine person. Immediately I faxed my desire/wish or dream to achieve with all the details along with the Expedition program on the given number.

I couldn’t believe that the very next day (2nd July my birthday) I got a mail from Deborah Denhardt of WWF-International. (Switzerland) She was very happy and replied that I should contact WWF-India to seek required help for the expedition. After contacting on phone, sending fax and even mailing the expedition program and details to WWF- India office at Delhi for more than 15 days, and spending a lot of money, I did not get any success in getting any response from WWF-India Delhi office. I was very much frustrated and in that frustration I wrote a letter to Deborah Denhardt and explained her that it would be difficult to get a response from WWF-India office. I requested her to help me. Again on the very next day she sent a confirmation message and wrote that she would be sending 3 T-shirts, Membership Cards and stickers. T-shirts for myself, Membership cards and stickers were for the distribution on the way. That was the month of August and in the first week of September I got the parcel. My father and whole family was very happy that I got the parcel from Switzerland but nobody was aware for what purpose and why I got the parcel. I opened it and found all the material what Deborah promised me. I got the letter in the second week of September. So almost half of the preparation was done.

When I prepared the Program I had decided to travel without money, with the help of people; like the way those two Russian men had travelled. But when I studied a little deeper, I got many queries, the most important amongst them was to get the Visa of each country. It would be really difficult to get the visa without sponsorship letter or money. So I was desperate to have the sponsorship letter or a little fund with me. So I approached many companies for the Sponsorship. But nobody responded positively. Many of the companies replied that they do not sponsor individual events.

For arranging at least a little fund, I got an idea. I planned to prepare around 15,000 Greeting Cards on the occasion of Diwali (A very big festival celebrated by all Indians every year), which was in the month of October. First I collected the information from the Printing Press regarding how much money I would require to prepare 15,000 Cards. Then I visited few top Companies’ Dealers in the town, explained them about the expedition and the purpose of the same. I told that I would be distributing these Cards free to the people through the Companies, Govt. Offices and the Institutions to spread my message in the city.

It would be colourful Card with the message and two pictures combined together (One picture of an Oxygen Mask covering whole Earth and other picture, one person cutting the horn of Rhinoceros) on the cover page with one main Sponsor (Rs. 5,000). Back cover was to have around 12 advertisements. Costing 18,000.

I worked hard and collected the amount required for the Cards. Total receipts of advertisements from the sponsors were Rs. 23,000 but I could not get money from two dealers around Rs. 3000. So the total funds gathered was Rs. 20,000. My expectation was, if 10,000 people would have contributed Rs. 10 (on their own without demand) each for the card even if I would distribute free would have generated a fund of around Rs. 100,000. Until then nobody from my family or friends was aware about my expedition. When I got 17,000 Greeting Cards and started distributing them, gradually everybody came to know about the expedition and got shocked. At the same time I began approaching the newspaper Offices to make people aware about the expedition & get their support.

After doing so much and spending lot of time for trying to get some support. I did not get support the way I thought. I could not collect more than two to three thousand rupees, which I believe was spent on Petrol expenses for the distribution of the cards. But I was happy that I got the success to reach out and spread the message to around 15,000 people. Yes I distributed 15,000 Cards free. I saved 2000 cards with another idea. I cut those remaining Cards in such way that I got the message with Picture. The size of the card reduced to just little bigger than a visiting card. I carried it with me to distribute in the schools during expedition. Though my rucksack weighed 20 Kg at the time of commencing my expedition, these cards increased a little weight.

THE TURNING POINT

While doing the distribution work, I met Rtr. Nilesh Kapadia and meeting him was the biggest success of my expedition. He was a great man and admired my courage. I had been a member of Rotaract Club (Part of Rotary Club) but not active. He explained me how it would help me, if I take help of Rotaract Clubs all over. I understood that I took a first step towards the success of the expedition. Later Mr. Nilesh helped and guided me a lot on the Rotary and Rotaract part.

My sports club “Ajintha Sports Club”, which had made me so strong, mentally and physically, to take up such an impossible task. My teachers, I do not want to miss their names, Mr. Vijay Lokhande, Mr. Todewale, Mr. Khandre, Mr. Supekar, our dearest and most lovable Mr. Sandeep Wardhave (Mannu Sir) and Ms Sanjeevani Wardhave (Sanju Tai) and off course all my friends supported me a lot and kept my moral high. I believed that when you have the will to do there is always a way to achieve, but you have to keep trying till you achieve your goal. The city Municipal Corporator and then Member of Parliament of the district supported me with Rs 25,000. This amount I carried with me to Delhi in the month of November for pre-preparation of the Expedition. I spent almost a month in Delhi. My plan was to get the Visa’s of all countries from Delhi itself. Because I met few expeditionary and studied their problems, almost all of them faced many problems on visa part. I spent almost full week contacting 14 countries Embassies but I got the same answer from all the Embassies that “It would be impossible to issue visa from India, as it would take me a long time to reach each country and by that time my visa would expire.” Even Sri Lankan Embassy told me to come in the month of January when they saw the expedition program and found that I would be back in Delhi before 26th January. At the same time there was lot of paper work to be done with Ministry of External affairs to get No Objection Certificate (NOC) for making the visa work easy for each country. I met Mr. Sukhbir Singh who took almost one-month time to give me a simple letter called as Certificate. (Later I found it was of no use, it was neither on the letterhead nor any Govt. of India’s Official seal on it.) But I took challenge against those people to show them that I would complete the Expedition without any help of Government.

During my stay in Delhi I met many important and big personalities, the then Environmental Minister Mr. Suresh Prabhu. But even he could not do anything for me. I contacted Mrs. Meenakshi Sharma the then Deputy Director of Ministry of Youth Affairs and Sports. She told me about the government schemes, which provides financial assistance to promote adventurous activities. She helped me to do little documentation & tried her level best to help me get some financial assistance but even she was failed to do anything. My file returned by the govt. stating WALKING does not come under adventure and so I am not liable to get govt. support.

Mrs. Meenakshi Sharma saw my dedication and asked me to go to Mr. Satya Paul who was a Freedom Fighter and life member of Servants of the People Society. Mrs. Sharma has already spoke to him about me & requested him to help me. Meeting him was another great achievement, I was very happy that god has sent me to see the life of great people. He was an old man of around 75-80 yrs old but still very active. He was a great Freedom Fighter and had good contacts with The President of India, Shri. K.R. Narayanan. He was a kind man, with principles, “ simple living and high thinking”. I explained him in detail about the expedition and purpose of the expedition. At first he encouraged me a lot and as he was about to go to meet Mr. K. R. Narayanan, he asked one of his staff members to give me the Names and Addresses of the people for all the Indian Cities that I would visit during Expedition. Not only that but he prepared a letter, gave a copy to me and told his staff to send the same copy of the letter to all the people whose names and addresses I got with me.

The time was very short for me. It was the beginning of the month of December. I thought of visiting WWF Office to get support for at least Expedition equipment. After showing the letter of Deborah Denhardt, the impact of that letter was unbelievable, I was highly respected by all the officers, few of them even said, “Why didn’t you contacted WWF-India earlier?”. When I told him the story of faxes, e-mails, phone calls, one of them said yes!!!!!!! We have received such mail and fax, but no one took it seriously. I was taken to the Secretary of WWF Mr. Samar Singh, who asked me to visit the Nature shop and select the things that are necessary for the Expedition. I got a Rucksack, a sleeping mat, a sleeping bag and a windcheater. The total material cost was around Rs. 3000 but I got it free. I got a letter also from WWF-India, and thanked Mr. Samar Singh for providing the necessary things required for the expedition.

THE GOLDEN DAY (17th December 1998) Why did I choose to start the expedition from Agra, the city of Taj? Taj Mahal is one of the most beautiful and costly tombs in the world. The Indian ruler Shah Jahan ordered it built in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died in 1629 A.D. The tomb stands near the city of Agra, in northern India, on the south bank of the Yamuna River. About 20,000 workers were employed in its construction, and it was completed after some 20 years by about 1650.

According to tradition, a Turkish architect designed the Taj Mahal. It is made of white marble and rests on a platform of red sandstone. At each corner of the platform stands a slender minaret (prayer tower). Each tower is 40.5 metres high. The building itself is almost 57 metres square. A dome covers the centre of the building. It is over 21 metres in diameter and 36.5 metres high. Passages from the Muslim holy book, the Quran, decorate the outside along with inlaid floral patterns. A central room contains two cenotaphs (monuments). Visitors can see the monuments through a carved alabaster screen. The bodies of Shah Jahan and his wife lie in a vault below. The tomb stands in a garden.

Now the Taj Mahal is getting polluted & loosing it’s lust. It is the live example of Pollution and so I thought to start with such land mark which is going to be buried under the Pollution if people do not wake up to the fact. My earlier plan was to start the expedition on 1st January 1999 at the New Years day. However co-incidentally there was meeting of Rotaract Club (Part of Rotary Club- a youth wing) and I was the member of Rotaract Club as I have mentioned above. The meeting call, “ROTASIA”, where the South-East Asia’s Rotaract members were suppose to join. To attain the meeting, was the most important part of the Expedition as the expedition was without money.

17th December 1998, It was a pleasant morning, It was great experience all together. I addressed the meeting and requested all the members to support me during expedition, whenever I would reach their country or state or town. Though there were Rotaract Members only from Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Nepal other than India.

I was garlanded, all Rotaract members wished and gave their visiting cards to contact them during the expedition. Many of them became members of WWF. I got the letter from WWF- International stating, “ I would raise funds for the protection of nature during my South Asia Expedition by contacting people and asking them to become members.” But when money part comes then there is problem of trust and believes. I didn’t had anything to give them in return, as they used to ask, whether they would get any receipt or not as well as the membership card. I realized it would be difficult to collect money because no one would be ready to support without getting receipt or membership card. When I started I thought I would raise funds and send to WWF but the supporters would expect receipt or Membership Cards against their donation and that was not possible. So instead of taking money I distributed them the Membership Forms, so that they could do it by their own. Otherwise people might think that I am a cheater if I collect funds and they do not get receipt. My aim was to give the membership forms to those who want to become members of WWF. Many were interested to become member of WWF-International too. So I gave the forms and told them to send it to Switzerland office.

Finally Rotarian Garry C. K. Hawng of Tiwan, flagged me off and the journey began………..

I was feeling great when people used to look at me with the curiosity. I enjoyed the walk in the city as well as on the highway. I had lunch on the highway where the Dhaba (Highway Hotel) owner didn’t charge me for my meal, when he came to know about the expedition. I walked till evening and hitchhiked. First day I reached Mathura, the Holy place of the Hindus and the birthplace of the Hindu god Shri Krishna, at 9.30 p.m. I went to the Police Station and requested them to help me to put me in an Asylum (free guesthouse, usually for pilgrims). The Police inspector was kind, and he asked his two subordinates to drop me in an Asylum. But it was very difficult to get in, the manager checked all my documents and my rucksack, then only he permitted me to sleep. I had my own bedding with me so I slept on the floor.

Next two days also I spent in an Ayslum in Hodal and Faridabad and was on the way to Pattikalyana. It was 20th of December, I got up early and wanted to move but everyday I was facing problems with the fog. I shall never forget those dark ice-bound mornings, since I began the walk. At night the temperature used to be around 4 degrees. But the conditions were encouraging for walking. On the way I had food same way on the Dhaba, free of cost. Actually most of the time I did not have to pay for food. When the Dhaba (Highway Hotel) people look at me walking and carrying a big rucksack on the back, all of them are interested and eager to know what I am doing? Once I take my rucksack down and take a wash to sit for food, obviously one of them breaks the silence when they serve lunch on my demand. Later when they understand the purpose, they themselves used to say do not pay. People were very kind, supportive and encouraging.

I enjoyed walking in cold and fresh atmosphere where you do not feel tired. I reached Pattikalyana a small village by walk and hitchhiking in the evening at 7.00 p.m. Went to the Gandhi Ashram that was on the highway. At one of the houses, I asked for Mr. Mahavir Tyagi (Reference given by the freedom fighter, Mr. Satya Paul of Servants of the People Society, Delhi). It was his neighbour’s house. They enquired for what purpose I want to meet Mr. Tyagi. The family was very good and kind they told me that Mr. Tyagi would come late at night. They saw my file and a letter from Mr. Satya Paul. They got very excited and asked me to take rest at their house till Mr. Tyagi comes. It was getting late but there was no sign of Mr. Tyagi. The family served me a very good dinner. There were three small kids of less than 12 years of age in the house and they mixed up with me in very less time. They played with me a lot by calling me “Bhiyya” (Brother). Later the neighbour opened the guesthouse and asked me to sleep. Those three children dropped me there. I asked them to come to the guesthouse in the morning to go for exercise. It was a lonely place and there was electricity failure. In such conditions someone knocked at the door. I asked before opening and got the reply “Mr. Tyagi”, I opened the door, Mr. Adesh Tyagi a young man of around 30 years of age, son of Mr. Mahavir Tyagi was standing. He didn’t spend much time, as it was 11 O’clock, he told me to call incase if I am in need and left within five minutes.

On the Monday morning God gifted me children’s love. Early morning as per the promise the kids knocked the door. I was not ready, so I asked them to wait for five minutes. We ran for a Kilometer or less, and went inside the exercise room. They tried to copy what I was doing, so I taught them a little exercise. I was in love with them, and even they did not wanted me to leave. I came back and took bath with the ice-cold water. A person asked me to come for the breakfast. He served me 4 hot parothas (flat breads) which were of great taste. Other side Mr. Tyagi was waiting for me for the breakfast at his house, I told him that I had it in the canteen but he forced me to come to his house. His wife also served me noodles with milk. So I had heavy breakfast. We spent time talking about the expedition and even I enquired about the Ashram (a place where social workers stay).

Pt. Omprakash Trikha, who was founder and died on 10th November1985, built the Ashram in the memory of Mahatma Gandhi. The area covered was around 20 Acres. It’s a famous Prakrutik Chikitsa Kendra (Naturopathy Center) where all decease’s mainly Obicity (Fatness) and Stomach problems are cured. In the Ashram you won’t find any servant except for Farming, Gardening and cooking, otherwise everyone does their own work. There is a primary school, Post Office, a Bank and Orphanage. There is also a small unit of handmade paper production and Khadi (Indian Handloom cloth). It is fully prohibited area, no alcohol drinking and no smoking. It means that if anyone wants to get cured in this Ashram, then one has to leave alcohol drinking and smoking.

It was the 5th day of my expedition, my next destination was 30 Km. I decided to start the walk after lunch. Ever since I left Agra, I was experiencing a difference in everything, whatever I was doing was first time in my life. For lunch I had famous and very tasty Punjabi food (Makke ki Roti and Sarso ka Saag).

After lunch I thanked all family members, blessed all my little friends and moved towards Panipat. Those kids were so affectionate, they asked me, when I would come next, but I could not answer their question. I really developed strong relations with all, they were forcing me to stay for a day, but I was having my programme with me and that never allowed me to take rest without any serious reason. When I left for Panipat, it was 2 O’clock, off course it was late start and therefore by evening it was not possible to cover 30 Km. I thought in the evening I would go for hitchhiking, but it was very difficult to hitchhike after dark. Because people were scared of my rucksack, thinking that I may be a terrorist. Here I dared to take risk and even in foggy atmosphere continued walking. It was First time that I walked till 11.30 night. It was a scary and dangerous walk (due to fog) but there was no alternative, moreover I made myself so strong that I crossed the level of scariness and fear of dying. I could walk only because of vehicles, yes, it was a busy highway, so I could see little in the lights of vehicles. At last at 11.30 night I got few hotels and small shops, which was sign of the town I understood that it was Panipat. I made a phone call from a Telephone Booth to Mr. Ram Mohan Rai. (Ref- friend of Mr. Adesh Tyagi, who spoke to him already and asked me to go to him for night stay) I told him about my arrival and asked the directions to come. He gave me detailed address of his house and asked me to come. That night was dark with foggy atmosphere, I would not have reached alone, if a person from the Dhaba had not come with me to show Mr. Rai’s house. I reached at Mr. Rai’s house where he was waiting for me on the main gate. Both Mr. and Mrs. Rai welcomed me and asked, if I want to have dinner. I was hungry so replied positively. Here again I had a different dish Dal Bhati (a Rajasthani Dish- Rajasthan is one of the states of India). Those unknown people were so kind that even at midnight they welcomed me. It was too late, Mr. Rai was also not in a mood to know much about me, and after dinner immediately I went to sleep. Mr. Rai was an advocate & his office was inside the house itself, I got the same office room to sleep.

At his house I met one more guest of Mr. Rai who was a journalist from Pakistan Mr. Hyder. During breakfast (I had again same parotha’s, I loved it) spent some time chatting with Mr. Hyder on various topic on India and Pakistan.

Mr. Rai who was the Manager of Arya Sr. Sec. School, spoke to the principal and asked to make arrangement for the speech in the School. The principal asked him to send me at 12 Noon. I visited the first school during expedition where I delivered my message to more than 500 students. Initially I spoke for around 25 minutes and at the end I requested all the students to clean up the school campus in five minutes, off course with the permission of the Principal. The students were already charged and within just five minutes collected lot of garbage. Later they sat down and then I explained that two acres of land could be cleaned up with in five minutes by all the students of one school. If all schools of Panipat come together the city could be cleaned up in an hours time only. All the teachers, Principal and Students were very much impressed by the talk. I distributed poster and Stickers to the School as memento. I requested students to remember my talk and me always by looking at the posters and stickers, and try to help for the betterment of our surrounding environment. After the speech Principal Mr. Deepchand Nirmohi who was a writer of Hindi and wrote many books asked me to come to his office. He praised a lot for the speech that I made, he offered me snacks before leaving the school.

I came back home, spent time with Mr. Rai’s children’s. The elder one Sulabha (14 yrs), the middle one Sanghmitra (11 yrs) and the naughtiest was Utkarsh (8 yrs) Here also everyone loved me a lot and call me “Bhiyya” I spent whole evening playing with them. I called up Rotaractor Gupta from the Rotaract International Directory, explained him the purpose and gave Mr. Rai’s phone number. He told me that he would be calling back. In the evening Rotaract Club President Rtr. Mukul Sharma Call up and when he came to know that I am staying with Mr. Rai since yesterday, he got angry. He told me that he would be coming to Mr. Rai’s house. He came with another Rotaract member Rtr. Ashutosh at 8 O’clock and told Aunty that he would like to take me with them. But all children’s and even Aunty forced me to stay. Anyhow I convinced her, but then she allowed me to go after dinner. I had little food because even Rtr. Mukul wanted me to have dinner with them. After thanking Aunty and all my friends (Sulabha, Sanghamitra and Utakarsh) I went with Rtr. Mukul and Rtr. Ashutosh. Both had come by car. We reached at a five-star hotel, I was shocked and when we went inside the hotel, in the dimly lit Room there were four more Rotaractors already waiting for us. I was introduced to everyone. I noticed that the gentlemen who were sitting, were from very rich families. All were having factories. They all were having drinks so I had beer with them. Actually it was the birthday party of Rtr. Mukul Sharma. We packed the dinner and had it at Rtr. Punit Gupta’s house. At night at 12 O’clock we all wished Rtr. Mukul Sharma on his Birthday (23/12). I enjoyed a lot with all those Rotaract members. We slept in Rtr. Punit’s Bungalow itself.

Next day I wanted to go to Nilokhedi (45 Km) 10 Km from Karnal. At around 4 O’clock I crossed Karnal; the weather was clear, no fog but just after half an hour the weather became foggy and after another half an hour it was getting dark. I was enjoying each minute of my life. I was really enjoying a lot thinking that I was the only person in the world enjoying my life. I reached Nilokhedi in the evening at 5.30 p.m. Contacted Mr. Tajveer Singh (Ref- Mr. Tyagi from Gandhi Ashram) at a technical Institute. I explained him and gave reference of Mr. Tyagi. Immediately he welcomed me and took me to his house. He was a driver and staying in the Quarters. It was a very small house but he was very kind. In such a small house he was staying with his wife and two children. I never wanted to disturb any one so I told him that I always sleep on the floor as I carry my own bedding. I had a healthy dinner and slept.

I realize that there was no point getting up early morning because I could not walk in such a foggy atmosphere. When you do not get to see anything it’s risky, unnecessary walking in the fog and might get hit by a vehicle. As I had seen how the drivers drive the vehicles in fog. So I waited and after heavy breakfast I walked towards Ambala (50 Km) at 8.30am. On the walk I saw many vehicles fallen aside of the road, few vehicles were on the road dividers, few were in such a condition that a person cannot stop laughing looking at the vehicles and thinking that how the accident would have occurred. It was really funny but bad. In the evening I reached straight to DRR (District Rotaract Representative- the post in the Club who takes care of whole Rotary district). Mr Vivek Dureja (met me in Agra and gave his Visiting Card) he was not at home but his mother welcomed and offered snacks with a glass of milk. Meanwhile his mother was trying to contact Rotaract members, she succeeded in contacting one of them, Rotaractor Niraj and asked him to come. When he came, I explained him about the expedition, he found me an interesting man and took me to his house. He called 3-4 more Rotaractors at his house. One of them wanted me to stay at his house, Rotaractor Kamal hosted me for the night. His family welcomed me and took lot of care.

25th December was the Christmas day and there was a function organized by all the Rotaract Clubs in Ambala. Those Rotaractors made me the Chief guest, I was very happy to get the chair on the dais. I enjoyed programs like quiz, jokes, Orchestra etc. I met Rtr. Vivek Dureja at the function. At the end of the program I delivered my message to the entire club members and even at the Rotary meet also. Next day, Ambala Rotaractors gifted me a nice woolen sweater. I was having a windcheater but woolen sweater keeps warm from inside. I got lots of love from all the members. I thanked all and moved towards Chandigarh (50 Km) the next destination. I reached Chandigarh by walk in the evening at 7 O’clock by using short cut which was around 40 Km. But the city was still 5 Km ahead. I was at the newspaper office “The Tribune” where I contacted a reporter who interviewed me. Then I called up few Rotaractors but no one responded; at last a girl Rotaractor Gurminder sent two members at the newspaper office. I explained them and requested them to drop me at Lajpat Bhavan. I gave a call to Mr. Chand (Ref- Satya Paul –Servants of the people Society) explained in short, and gave reference of Mr. Satya Paul, he asked me to come to his place. The boy’s who had come, were in a Car, so they dropped me and told me that they would pick me the next day for the project. (Hepatitis-B vaccination) Mr. and Mrs. Chand welcomed me. Mr. Chand was around 70-75 yrs old. He asked his servant to show me the guestroom. The room was very big, which was more than enough even for four people. I freshened up and went downstairs for dinner. Uncle used to eat boiled vegetables where as I had Roti and cooked Vegetable. Aunty enquired a lot about the expedition and said she would prepare Maharashtrian food the next day. (As India is divided into 28 states so each state has it’s own specialty, and Maharashtra is one of the 28 states) It was very cold in Chandigarh. Uncle and Aunty were caring a lot. Rtr. Gurminder the female Rotaractor with whom I spoke the day before and another Rotaractor came to pick me up at the venue. There were around 25 Rotaract members in all, they welcomed me and presented a bouquet of flowers and asked me to cut the cake. It was again unbelievable welcome by the Rotract Club Members. The project continued for more than two hours. I spent good time with the members. Ms Gurminder dropped me back to Lajpat Bhavan. It was lunchtime Uncle and Aunty were having lunch with one more person, I joined them for lunch and we had very long discussion on environment and policies of Government. In those days there was news about Himachal Pradesh (a state in India) Government banning plastic bags in the state. The discussion was on lot of other topics too. It was nice to listen to the experienced people. Chandigarh is one of the beautiful cities in India. The Swiss-born architect Le Corbusier designed Chandigarh. It is laid out in rectangular sectors integrated by a grid of streets designed for fast traffic. Chandigarh derives its name from a temple dedicated to the Hindu goddess, Chandi. Her shrine stands on a small hill about 10 kilometers from the city. Chandigarh was only a small village when planning for the new city began in 1947. Construction of the city started in the 1950's. By the early 1970's, the modern city had been largely completed. Chandigarh has about 3,000 hectares of land under cultivation. Maize, wheat, potatoes, and rice are the main crops. Forests cover about one-fourth of the area. I visited the famous Rock Garden, which was made up by used and waste material by Mr. Nek Chand and the Garden is world famous. I visited Rose Garden also and enjoyed a lot. At night I had Maharashtrian dinner as per Aunt’s promise. Next day I had breakfast, Uncle and Aunty blessed me, and Aunty asked me to come back again after the end of expedition. Both loved me a lot and considered me as a part of family. I thanked both of them and moved towards Ludhiyana (100 Km). I saw lots of Animals, Bulls and Buffalos working in farms. People use Horses’ for carrying goods few people beat them very crudely. Already they put more than double weight in the carrier and expect the poor animals to carry the goods fast. I used to get angry seeing this. On the Delhi-Chandigarh route I had found lots of trees but as any village town or city starts, the trees disappears. As soon as I entered Punjab State, I got to see lot of farming activity. The scene was beautiful and peaceful for the eyes. I reached Ludhiyana by walk and Hitchhiking. There I visited Mr. Shrawan Kumar’s Company met his son who told me about the Ashram and took me to the Ashram of Mr. Shrawan Kumar (Ref- Satya Paul –Servants of the people Society). He was of around 70 yrs of age and running the Ashram with the help of 6-7 friends of the similar age. Everyone used to call him Babuji. (The word has lot of respect for old man) He welcomed me, and I gave him the letter of Shri. Satya Paul; he asked one lady to accommodate me in the guestroom. Babuji spoke to one of the Rotary Club members when I told about Rotary Club. The Rotarian asked me to come at Girls College (at the Blood Donation Camp) on 29/12 at 12.30. It was almost 8 O’clock. I could hear very sweet Bhajans (songs sung for God) in the morning. I saw few old people singing with the musical instruments in very low voice without creating noise pollution. I was eager to know more about those people who were in the Ashram. Mr. Ashok told me that the old people were picked up by the Ashram from Bus station, Railway station and from the market. The Ashram takes care of them for few days and try to know their home address. Then visiting at their house convincing their children they send them back in their family. Off course it’s not so easy, some times they had to make use of power too. I had very heavy breakfast with a glass of milk. Babuji came with almost all the executive members of “Nishkam Sewa Ashram” the name of the Ashram. Every day morning all members come to discuss and solve the problems as well as to make plans for the future. Babuji introduced me to each one of them. Each one was from a different profession. There was an Industrialist, a Doctor, a Bank Manager, a retired Colonel and others were Govt. officers. All were above 70 years of age. They all had terrific experience on life. They were ambitious and their dream was to make the society a better place to live in and try to give happiness to as many people as they can. The Nishkam Sewa Ashram involved in the following works: -  A home for the Aged  Eye and Dental Hospitals  Dispensaries; Allopathic and Homeopathic  School for Street Children in slums  Training in Cutting, Tailoring and Embroidery for females  Adult Education for Working Women  School and sheltered workshop for the Mentally Retarded Children  Day-care Center for the aged  Supply of clothes and woolens to the needy and poor I spent lot of time knowing about the work done by the Nishkam Sewa Ashram. At 12.15 Mr Ashok, the manager cum driver, and a trustworthy person of the ashram; who does all the work, dropped me to the Ramgariya Girls College, the venue of the Blood Donation Camp. Rotary club members welcomed me and I found it was a very big function. Few renowned personalities were present with the NCC (National Cadet Core – an organisation which imparts military training to civilians) Commander, and many NCC girl cadets along with teachers and Rotary Club Members. The crowd was not less than 500 in numbers. I distributed the Message Cards (the one little bigger than visiting Cards) to the students. Obviously I could not make a long speech, as the subject matter of the function was different. I started with “Respected elders and my dear sisters”. I spoke for ten minutes, it was a brief and polite speech and everybody appreciated it. Even I was happy the way I delivered my message. I received a standing ovation. After the function many girls called me “Bhaiya” (Brother) and enquired about the expedition. I could imagine the power of one word that brought me close to all girls. I spent almost three hours with the girls and came to know that the NCC students were from all the collages of Ludhiyana. The camp was for 10-12 days. Lots of girls asked me about the membership of WWF. I was carrying WWF-India membership forms. I distributed few of them and told to get the photocopies if needed. I was satisfied to deliver my message to all the colleges in Ludhiyana. From the Ramgaria College to the Ashram that was on Pakhowal road, I walked and noticed very less trees in the city. Lots of Small scale Industries was in the city area, which makes lots of pollution. It was dirty city. On the highway I saw three wheelers running and making tremendous pollution. When the government takes any strict action against polluters, they demonstrate on the streets or they call on “strikes” or “Bandh” (where the whole city is closed for the day). They do not want to maintain their vehicles and they do not care our mother earth. The poor people should also be educated. I reached the Ashram at 7 p.m. it took two hours for me to reach there. Babuji told me to be ready the next day morning before 6.15 as everyone would be going for the Camp in a village Manakpur Gaon. Previous night, I had got up three times but each time before 5.00 am and when I wanted to get up I was in deep sleep. Mr. Ashok knocked the door and shouted at 6.15. I requested him to wait for five minutes. Without having bath I went with him but outside there was dense fog. I realized how it was difficult to drive in the dark. We were going at a speed of not even 10 km/h. Mr. Ashok told me that, because of fog we left early otherwise it does not take much time. We picked up four members including Babuji one by one from their houses. By the time we collected everyone the visibility on the road had increased. We went to Manakpur Gaon (Village in Rajpur Dist.) reached there at 9 O’clock even though the distance was just 80 Km from Ludhiyana. Nishkam Sewa Ashram and Red Cross Society organized the Camp jointly. The camp was for the handicapped, and Polio patients (Children as well as elders). All villagers and Mr. Rajeev Vasishtha (Member of Nishkam family) welcomed us. The camp was at the National Public School. We put banners of “Nishkam” and “Red Cross”. Then Mr. Ashok and myself went to pick up few more people in Mohali town. Mr. Ashok was a very nice and hardworking man. He was staying in the Ashram itself with his wife and a child. He used to take me at many places along with him, as he found me a friend to talk. It was the house of Mr Rajeev Vasishtha, we had breakfast and came back at the campsite with few people. The programme had already started, many children, young and Old people were there. I really saw what kind of hard work one has to put in for arranging the camp. I learned a lot from those great people. I came to know that some of the handicapped were going to get tricycles, operation free of cost and much-much more. The Camp provided breakfast and Lunch to every one. Many other villagers, Mr. Vasishtha and his team also did a great job. I was very happy and thanked God for sending me amongst those people to know about life in a much closer way. All members of Nishkam have devoted their lives for the betterment of the society and are doing great social work. We came back to Ashram in the evening. The camp was successful. I knew what kind of great satisfaction people get after doing good work. It was the same satisfied feeling I had, after the speeches made in Schools, throughout my journey. Fog was not going to leave me. It continuously followed since Agra. When Babuji came, I thanked him for the very close exposure to the life. He blessed me for the further journey and asked Mr. Ashok to drop me on the Jalandhar Highway. Jalandhar was around 60 Km. and I reached there in the evening before I get in to trouble with fog. On the way I got the office of All India Radio a lady took my interview and told me to listen on First January 1999 in the morning at 7.20 in the news. Then I went to the News Paper office of Punjab Kesari to meet Mr. Vijay Chopra (Ref- Satya Paul –Servants of the people Society) Editor in Chief. He was also informed by Mr. Satya Paul so I didn’t faced any problem, he asked one of the Reporters to take my interview with a photograph and asked his secretary to help me for the accommodation. Mr. Chopra was a busy person and he could not spend much time with me. The Reporter took my interview with the photograph and Secretary provided a letter for accommodation in Devi Talav Dharamshala (Asylum). After an hour’s walk I reached at the Asylum and got the room after showing the letter. Devi Talav Temple is one of the biggest temples in the city. It is famous and well-known pilgrim place in India. I had dinner in the temple free, as temple provides lunch and dinner to 1000’s of people every day free of cost. Since beginning I got various experiences, people used to think that I am a sales man and selling something. Here is one of the funniest experiences I am narrating, It was 31st December last eve of the year. I was passing through the market towards Devi Talav Temple. I almost crossed the market, suddenly a boy came running and told me that a man wants to see me. I asked him the purpose, but he was unaware. I was little angry because I hate walking back. But still I went and asked that man. Do you know what he might have asked me? Can you guess? The man asked me, “Are you searching for the Job?” I did not reply just gave bitter smile looking at him and started walk. Actually it was not his fault he was a kind person and might have thought to help me by providing a Job. The day 31st December people celebrate New Year by enjoying a lot going out in the hotel parties and many other places. I celebrated it at the feet of the God. The First January 1999 was memorable day for me even 31st December that I spent in the Temple. I prayed there for the people for their peace, happiness and long life, as the expedition was supported by the people. It was very much cold out there because I was going towards North. But the Sweater helped me a lot. Once I start walk I really used to enjoy it, it used to keep me warm. I left the asylum and walked towards the highway to go to Amritsar (90 Km). But Spend a night at Bias Ashram which is approximately 50 Km from Jalandhar. The Ashram was on the highway and the saints were very kind, they helped me to spend a night. Next day I moved towards Amrisar & reached in the evening at 5 p.m. It was hardly 35-40 Km from Bias Ashram. The Rotaract club members Sameer Chatkara and Tarandeep Singh (whom I met in Agra) both they were having their shops near the Golden Temple. I requested them first to help me in contacting Laxmikanta Chowla (a Politician -M.L.A.) (Ref- Satya Paul –Servants of the people Society) for accommodation. I showed her the letter of Mr. Satya Paul and requested her to help me for accommodation. She called up the Vice Chancellor of Gurunanak Dev University and confirmed the accommodation in one of the guest houses of Boys Hostel in the University. I thanked her and moved to the guest house. Before that I had dinner at Tarandeep’s house. Sameer and Tarandeep both dropped me at the guest house at the University. It was 10.00 P.M. and was very cold. I contacted Mr. Harbhajan Singh Soch Vice Chancellor of the university thanked him for the accommodation, next day morning. I spent most of the time with the Rotaractors and saw my news on 2nd January’s Punjab Kesari News Paper. I visited another historic place, Golden Temple along with Rotaractors Manish and Harnam. Golden Temple is the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion. More than 75% is covered with the Gold Plates. The site has been sacred to Sikhs since the time of the fourth Guru in 1577. Guru Ram Das heard that a cripple had been cured by a miracle at a small pool on the site. He enlarged the pool, which eventually became the focus for the new temple and town. The Sikh ruler Ranjit Singh (1799-1839) had the temple rebuilt in marble with a gilded dome. The four doors of the temple are always open. The holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib, is kept on the ground floor. The temple has been the main centre of Sikh devotion. It stands in the middle of a tank (pool), whose fresh water changes all the time. The city was named after the tank, which was called Amritsar, meaning the tank of nectar or immortality. I saw the part, which was reconstructed after 1984. In 1984, the Golden Temple was fortified by a group of Sikh extremists, led by a young preacher called Sant Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale. He and his followers used the sanctuary of the temple complex as a base for terrorist attacks. In June of that year, the Indian army stormed and captured the temple. As a result of the battle, many buildings in the temple complex were destroyed. This punitive campaign by the government caused bitter resentment among Sikhs throughout the world. Then we went to Jallianwala Bagh (we used to read during school time in the History book about the Massacre in Jallianwala Bagh). Inside I saw, there were really heartbreaking scenes. There was a museum where few wounded people have written their experiences like a widow explains the scene of the day a young person explains about his fight for saving injured people etc. one can not stop tears when one reads it. I saw the well, the platform and the bullet marks on the wall. Here I have written some brief about the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre……. April 13, 1919, the day of baisakhi festival, a day of celebrations for beginning of harvest of golden crop of wheat, which shook Gandhi’s faith in British justice and the moderate Gandhi had to change his way of thinking. The holocaust at Jallianwala Bagh, where thousands of innocent people were killed, still evokes painful memories. Time obviously has not healed the wounds.

THE MASSACRE A huge crowd gathered at Jallianwala Bagh on April 13, 1919, on this fateful morning Gen Dyer marched through the bazaars and streets of Amritsar making a show of his strength. A number of proclamations were read that no person was permitted to leave the city without a pass, that any person found in the streets after 8.00 P.M. was liable to be shot and that all processions were banned and any such gathering would be dispersed by force of arms. On the heels of Dyer’s procession, counter proclamation was made asking people to assemble at Jallianwala Bagh in the afternoon at 4.00 P.M. and Lala Kanahiya lal would preside over the meeting. It is believed that the British govt. out of a spirit of vengeance made use of an agent provocateur, Hans Raj to organize this meeting. As the announcement was made in the name of the nationalist movement, the masses were taken in and they gathered in Jallianwala Bagh in large numbers. People had started pouring in the Bagh after 2.00 P.M. although the meeting was at 4.00 P.M. Gen. Dyer had deployed all the available troops at every strategic point. He received the news that a large number of people had assembled and the person to confirm the information was Mr. Rehill, the Superintendent of Police. The general set out for the most important journey of his life, which was crucial for him as well as the people of India. Behind his car followed two armoured cars, followed by the police car with Rehill and Plomer. They proceeded to the Bagh and finding the alley too narrow, Dyer entered the Bagh along with his soldiers on foot, leaving the armoured cars in the Bazar (Market). Gen Dyer had made up his mind about the action to be taken and did not need any reason or provocation to commit the murderous act. In 1919, the Jallianwala Bagh was no ‘Garden’ but a desolate piece of land- a rectangle of irregular shape, about 229 meters long and 183 meters wide. This area had once belonged to one Bhai Hamit Singh Jallawala, a courtier of Raja Jaswant Singh of Nabha, who had been an advocate in the service of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Jallianwala Bagh follows from the name of owner. It was used as a dumping ground and not even the oldest living citizen of Amritsar has any recollection now whether it had ever really been a garden. The Bagh, sunk below the level of the city, was situated in its center and was surrounded by narrow lanes. Long before 1919, houses had been built all around the Bagh with their back walls towards it. It has three or four openings through which people could pass without much inconvenience and between the houses; parts of the boundary wall were low enough to lean over. Opposite the main entrance, there were no houses for about a hundred feet and a low brick and mud wall, about five feet high marked off this portion. To the right, there was another low wall made of mud. The Bagh contained one small smadh towards the southern side, with four small trees growing near it, and an open wall of quite big dimensions towards its eastern boundary. The strip of land near the entrance was on a higher level. Dyer at once deployed his troops- twenty-five on the right and twenty-five on the left. About twenty thousand people were present there at this time. The picture of Dr. Kitchlew had been put up. The C.I.D. people were also on the spot. Hans Raj who had arranged the meeting, addressed the crowd, assuring them that they need not have any fears and that the meeting had been called to pass two resolutions. The first resolution called for the repeal of the Rowlett Act, and the second, condemning the firing of 10th April, extended sympathy to the relatives of the dead. An airplane with a flag was seen hovering over the Jallianwala Bagh at about 4.00 P.M. it was believed to be a signal for the C.I.D. people to disperse. The people got panicky and began to move, but the speaker assured them that there was no cause for panic. They had begun to sit down again when they saw soldiers standing with guns on the raised platform, not far from the meeting. All this happened within thirty seconds. The General then instantly ordered his soldiers to open fire. Fifty soldiers knelt, raised their rifles, took aim and fired a volley into the heart of the large gathering, close to the platform. People realized at once that they were caught in a death trap. Within no time, the vast crowd rose in a wave, and rushed madly on all side to escape from the hail of bullets. On all sides, the barriers of house walls dammed up the tide of rushing crowds. People who knew about the small exits rushed in hundreds towards them. Seeing this onrush towards the exits, Dyer directed his soldiers to fire at those points. Many people died at the mouths of these exits as a result of firing, while the on rushing crowds trampled many others down. Many people attempted to jump over the five foot high boundary wall on the opposite side to escape, but only a few could do so, where as many were hit by the bullets and fell back, dead or wounded. Many children and elderly people lost their lives by being crushed under the feet of the running crowds. Many people also ran in the direction in which a well was situated in the Bagh, and blinded by terror and unable to arrest their momentum, fell into it, as unfortunately, it had no protection wall around it in those days. The firing continued for ten to fifteen minutes and ceased only after the ammunition ran out; 1,650 rounds were fired i.e. around 33 rounds per rifleman. Dyer admitted later that if more ammunition had been available, that too, would have been spent on the people. The exact number of people who were killed will never be known. More than eight hundred were estimated to have been killed according to official figures and thousands were wounded. Piteous and heart rending cries were rising from the hundreds of wounded people, but there was nobody to give them water or any kind of relief or assistance. Hundreds of people were in the throes of death, but could not be saved because curfew time was approaching. Dyer had never doubted the correctness and reasonable-ness of his action on April 19, 1919, Martial law was proclaimed and reign of terror was let loose on the citizens of Amritsar irrespective of their age, sex, cast to creed. As censorship was imposed, it took quite sometime for the news of Jallianwala Bagh Massacre and the uprising in Punjab as a whole, to reach the world. “This disproportionate severity of punishment inflicted upon the unfortunate people and method of carrying it out is without parallel in the history of civilized govt., barring some conspicuous exceptions, recent or remote.” Wrote Rabindranath Tagore to the Viceroy while returning his knighthood. So, roused was Thakur by “the agony of indignation” that he told the British rulers, “The time has come when badges of honor make our shame glaring in their incongruous context of humiliation, and I, for my part, wish to stand, shorn of all special distinctions. The least I can do for my country is to take all consequences upon myself in giving voice to the protest of the millions of my countrymen, dumb founded by the terror unleashed.” Under growing public pressure at home and throughout the world, Britain ordered an impartial enquiry into the Jallianwala Bagh holocaust. Lord Hunter spearheaded the commission of enquiry. After 29 sessions in Lahore, the hunter commission denounced Gen. Dyer and pilloried him. The House of Commons rebuked and condemned Gen. Dyer. The House of Lords eulogized him. In an outrageous fashion, encomiums were offered to Gen. Dyer. The British Daily newspaper, “The morning Post” floated a public fund and raised money for “the man who committed a Great Crime in the name of law.” However, among many, who condemned the ghostly act, were many Englishmen themselves. They have poured forth their feeling in genuine expression of sympathy. Wrote Donald Cunningham in the visitors’ book in 1938. “I am filled with remorse for my race after visiting this place. I feel that every Indian in the street looks at me as a member of a community of murders”. Another inscription in the books read: I am ashamed to be an Englishman when I hear of mass murders committed with more pride as I bear the name of civilized.” The long cherished dream of freedom became a reality after 28 years of the sacrifice of those who laid down their lives so that people may enjoy freedom, at the Jallianwala Bagh. A memorial, a pylon stands on 18 feet deep foundations, with four large stone lanterns, which flank the pylon. This is the most hallowed of all national monuments. It epitomizes as nothing else does India’s epic struggle for freedom, Independence and sovereignty. It symbolizes India’s trust with her destiny. In all the four sides of the memorial, the words: “In memory of martyrs-13th April, 1919” have been written in Punjabi, Hindi, English and Urdu. “The impossible men of India shall rise and liberate their Motherland” declared Mahatma Gandhi, after the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre. After spending almost whole day at Golden Temple and Jallianwala Bagh, we came back. I could not visit any School because of winter Holidays in most of the schools. Next day I spent some time at the football ground few teams were doing practice, as there were university tournaments going on but Sunday was the rest day no matches were played on. I thought I should deliver the message to those players. I contacted the organizer (Head of the sports Dept. of the university) and requested him for the speech after explaining about the expedition. I showed him the News Paper cutting of mine and the photographs. He agreed and told me, as there would be inaugural function the next day (though the tournament started two days before), before the match he would allow me to talk at that time at 12 Noon. According to my expedition programme I have to reach up to the Wagha Border (the plan was to go to Pakistan through this Border point but I did not get visa for Pakistan). I thought if not Pakistan but could walk up to the border. The Border was just 20 Km from the University, I moved after lunch, the whether was pleasant. Here the speciality of this Border is every day morning and evening at 6 O’clock both India and Pakistan opens their gate at the time of flag hosting and at the time of taking off the flags. Every day lots of tourists come to see the parade. I reached the border at 4 P.M. and saw many people were waiting outside the gate from where the border gate was still 200 meters. The gate opened at around 4.30 all people moved in. I reached near the border and got to see Pakistan on the other side of the gate. I was excited, Pakistani Soldiers and few people were there. There were more than thousand tourists came to see the Parade. But on the other, Pakistani side we saw very few people. Parade started around 6 O’clock and it was exciting. We were standing 30 meters away from the gate, as the soldiers require 30 meters for Parade. Both sides Jawans (Soldiers) orders at the same time. The soldiers make high noise of their shoes during the parade, which encourages each Indian, I do not know about others but I felt I should do it with them. Each order was given loudly and clear, Jawans used to take their leg high up in the lane of their face and used to bash on the floor, which was really great. I saw how much strength is required for doing the same. The other sides Pakistani Jawans were also doing the same. I found there was competition between Indian and Pakistani Jawans. I saw tremendous hatred (competition) in the eyes of Indian as well as Pakistani Jawans. After few minute both, India and Pakistan gates opens, Indian and Pakistani Jawans shake each other’s hands and then flag comes down. During the parade march we all tourist used to encourage our Jawans by shouting patriotic slogans. It was thrilling experience. It was the third day in Amritsar, I came to know about army school, it was near the hostel, but due to examination principle asked me to come on 6th Jan to deliver the speech. I came back and attended the Inaugural Function at the University Football ground and delivered the speech to the sports girls. In the hostel also during breakfast, lunch and dinner I was getting an opportunity to meet the students. In these two to three days time I made few friends in the university and requested them to arrange a small speech to talk with the students. They have arranged a small gathering and did my job spreading the message around the hostel youth. I delivered the message through the City Cable Television (Local TV channel) news, I was very happy to deliver my message to the peoples of Amritsar. So in various ways, I was trying to carry on my work to make people aware and encourage them to start doing individual efforts to save our mother earth. In Gurunanak Dev University, I came to know about a unique structure, there is a Library building, which is V-shaped, it is the second in the world of that kind. On 6th when I returned to the hostel, it was 10 O’clock at night. At the entrance I met the security guards, one of them was very good and kind. I was having chat with him every day. Tonight also I spent some time with him. His name was Mr. Singh (Dummy name) told me his experience about the people on the kindness and trust part. He told me that he was wanted to go to USA and was trying a lot to get the visa. Once he applied for it with many false documents, showing lot of acres of land, trucks, bank balance and lot more but the counselor caught him and said you won’t be getting visa for one year and she put a stamp on it. It was true that he wanted to work and stay in USA. He was around 35-40 years of age and from good family. He was in army before joining the University service. His one of the relatives lives in States and the relative told him to come to USA, once he reaches in the states, rest the relative would do all for him. He was cheated once while trying to get visa. He started narrating the experience, somehow he met an old man of around 60 yrs of age. The old man told him that he would do visa work, he showed lot of documents and said he has given visas to many people. Mr. Singh told me that he has visited his house many times he was staying with his wife. The old man told his son works in Bombay. Mr. Singh used to visit his house frequently to see whether he is nice man or not. One day the old man told him that he would go to Delhi to get the visa and tickets. He asked to give Passport with all the documents and money to him. He asked for around 90,000 rupees Both Mr. Singh and one of his relative asked that he would send somebody with him because the amount was very big and for an old person it would be risky. He told his son would be coming and both they would go to Delhi, you shouldn’t worry, there was nothing to doubt about him because the old man behaved with everyone for six month in such a way that he built the strong trust bond. No one could think he would cheat. But when Mr. Singh gave him money the very next day they found a lock at the old man’s house. They enquired with the neighbors but even the neighbors didn’t know. Because the furniture, refrigerator, TV and Washing machine everything was in the house. They searched a lot but could not find the old man and the lady. But the one thing was good that the Passports were there inside the house. The old man, who was looking kind and innocent, cheated Mr. Singh. Even then he wanted to go to USA. But this time he was having different plan. He said, first he would go to Dubai and then get the Visa from Dubai and move to USA. I spend long time in Amritsar since I have started the expedition. I found Punjabi’s are really kind hearted and very good people. Before leaving Amritsar I got the Rotaract International Directory from Tarun, in which there were names and addresses with contact numbers of Rotaract Clubs all over the World. After continuous walk for last 3 days, first at Harike (60 Km) then Faridkot (60 Km) and third day, I reached Bhatinda. In Bhatinda I met Mr Somchand Deva (Ref- Rotaractor Kamal from Ambala) he was the owner of two hotels, Hotel Metro and Hotel Vikas. He accommodated me in Hotel Vikas. In the morning I came to know that Mr. Som has left for Delhi, as his two-year-old son was very serious and would undergo operation. In Bhatinda, I visited Guru Nanak Dev Thermal Power Plant known to be one of the biggest power plant in India. I could contact few Rotaractors in Bhatinda. Those members told me about the function on Monday i.e. the next day and requested me to deliver the message in the village school. On Monday one of the Rotaractor took me to Galli Patti Govt. School in Galli Patti Village. The function was at 11.30 but started just 15 minutes late. Whole school staff and Principal welcomed all of us. Chief Guest was Mr. Mehta of National Fertilizers Limited who has done lot for the School and even announced Rs.2000 for the handicapped students. Rotract Club of Bhatinda donated Sweaters to the School Students and Poor Children’s. Just before the end of the program I got the opportunity to talk. I had a talk in Hindi and delivered my message. Every place wherever I used to give the speech students as well as teachers and other people if there are, they all used to get motivated and encouraged. Mr. Mehta wished me and Principal presented me a trophy as a memento. Later I visited to NIIT and had free talk with the students. I sent the trophy by post to my club (Ajintha Sports Club) I visited St. Joseph’s Convent School where the Principal was Sister Innocentia, very kind like a Mother Merry, really I do not know but I liked her very much she was very kind. She respected me a lot and then permitted to talk to the students. Later she spent sometime knowing about my family and expedition also. She asked me if I want anything, but I denied and thanked her. I remembered my mother, so much of love and affection was in her eyes. I miss her many times. I moved to Sirsa (90 Km) but had to struggle a lot, for hitchhiking and reached Sirsa at 7 P.M. I searched for Rotaract Club in Sirsa but I could not find it means there was no Club in Sirsa. But I could manage to find a Rotary Club member. Rotarian Bhupesh Mehata with his help I stayed in the Asylum. Next day he took me to National Girls School and delivered talk to 8th, 9th and 10th standard students. Rotarian Mehata arranged City Cable Television (Local TV channel) interview. After interview I moved immediately towards Fatehabad (40 Km). Stayed in the Asylum but the room was unclean and dirty. It was very cold few more people were staying in the asylum. The asylum was good but the manager was not good. I joined the people who were sitting near the fire. I saw many places especially today people were sitting around fire, I enquired and came to know that the day was called as LODI day. The day people celebrate LODI it is sign of change in weather. Means after the day of LODI summer season starts or the day gets warm and hot. The people who were staying in other rooms of Asylum were from Rajasthan and has arranged camp on Acupressure, Reki, Acupuncture etc. they were very nice people. They tried to teach me few very important relief exercises by using Acupressure techniques. On the way to Hisar (45 Km) from Sirsa I visited a School it was a primary School and run by Rotarian the Principal was a young girl. I explained her and requested for the talk. When she came to know about Rotary, she called Rotarian Kaushik, he welcomed me and immediately arranged for the talk. All were praising and respecting a lot. Whenever I see people ready to do anything for me, I used to thank God for providing so much love and making me great and big person in the eyes of the people, so that I could meet many-many good people in the World. After the speech with the small students Rotarian Kaushik asked me if I need anything. I thanked him and after breakfast I moved ahead. After an hour’s walk one man came running and told that his boss is calling me. I was again angry for going back, but when I turned around, I found Rotarian Kaushik was calling me. He introduced me to one of the press reporters of “The Tribune” who called up a photographer and took many photographs while walking. There was another person a Lions Club member who told me that he has taken a project and planting 200 trees every day since December 28 and would continue till February 28. Later he briefed me about the project and found he was in the business. Actually whatever it was but the person was planting trees. It’s good at least for business people should plant trees. Suddenly in front of us we have seen heartless people beating the horse badly, I could not imagine that man could be so heartless. The man was sweating & tired, so one could imagine the way he has beaten the horse. More over the horse was not moving ahead even an inch after beating so badly just shouting and jumping. First time I have seen cruelty to animal. I felt of beating the man in same way as he did it with the poor animal. The horse was really small but in carry-van the weight of the goods was more much-much more. Other two people were pushing the carry-van. Tears came out of my eyes looking at the scene, we stopped that man and asked the problem. He told that the calf of the horse was at home and so the horse was not ready for the work. After spending some time and convincing him that even animal understands language of love, I moved ahead. Reached Hisar at 7.30 P.M. Called up Rotaractor Vikas Jain but he was not at home so I spoke to his father, he asked me to come home. His house was not a house it was a Bungalow a very big Bungalow, Uncle and Aunty welcomed me even Rotaractor Vikas came by that time. I explained him and requested to help for accommodation. He was a different kind of Rotaractor and lot of kindness was in his heart. He accommodated me in his room. I spent a day at his house got up little let and got to know what people think when they keep an unknown person without knowing the background. During breakfast Aunty spoke to me, she was not aware about the expedition and the work I was doing. She saw the photographs and told me that she couldn’t sleep whole night because of unawareness. I felt very sorry that I troubled Aunty. She thought I am not a genuine person & whole night she was worried. But later she took lot of care. Jain family was well known in Hissar. They were millionaires, They have lot of property, which they had given on rent. “Kamla House” is the name of the Bungalow where they live. In the evening I have been interviewed by the City Cable Television. Then we went for the Rotary Club Meet the Club provided little financial support. I would like to tell the special experience of the Expedition, one day while walking towards Rohtak (80 Km) from Hissar. What happened? At a market place I requested a garage fellow to give me plate and hammer. He asked me the purpose, I told him that I would like to gather people and talk to them. They all laughed a lot on me and gave plate and a hammer I made a noise and shouted in Hindi language, “Suno Bhaiyon Suno, Paanch minute ke liye mere paas aao, suno… suno….. suno….” (listen-listen, come to me for five minutes) It was called street show. I really enjoyed the talk with those people and delivered the message. Many young and old men gathered & listened to me carefully. I stayed again in an Asylum, in Rohatak and later in Bahdurgarh. (60 Km from Rohatak) In Bahadurgarh asylum I saw many historic paintings. They all were Patriotic, which encourages people to leave in peace and unity not to fight for cast. When Mughal Soldiers used to kill Hindu’s, Sikh came forward to fight for Hindu Brahmin. Even I believe that there is only one religion and that is love. On 18th January I entered Delhi, which was just 30 Km from Bahadurgarh. Reached in the evening at 6.00 P.M. On the way I met the reporter of Hindustan Times of Delhi. He asked about me, I explained him and later he told me that he was the reporter. He took my Photograph also. I went to Lajpat Bhavan at Mr. Satya Paul’s place he was not there but met his P.A. he was aware about the expedition. He accommodated me in the guest room. The next day morning I saw many students because D.A.V. Public School was inside the campus of Lajpat Bhavan. I got the permission to deliver the message. It was again very good experience I got time to talk during assembly as I approached to the Principal before assembly. I could talk to more than 500 students with the help of mike. I found myself very confident to talk in front of so many students. The whole speech was of more than ten minutes everybody liked it very much and praised a lot. I presented Poster and Stickers as memento and told not to forget my talk and me. At the end of each speech I used to present Poster and Stickers (of WWF) In News Paper “The Hindustan Times”, I saw my news. I went to Shastri Bhavan contacted Meenakshi Sharma (Ministry of Youth Affairs and Sports) and showed her that without any support from the Govt. I crossed more than a month and will complete the remaining journey. She wished me for the expedition. In the same building I contacted Mr. Nitin Wakankar who was working in the Environment Ministry in Press Information and communication Dept. I requested him to help me for the News Paper coverage. He asked me to come in the evening. So I went to the INS building where all News Paper Offices are. The week Magazine reporter took my interview with the photographs, as I was having rucksack with me because I knew I would require it. Few more News Paper reporters took my interview. In the evening I went back to Shastri Bhavan and contacted Mr. Nitin Wakankar. He introduced me to the reporters of Delhi News Papers Indian express, Times of India and Nav bharat Times as well as other reporters from Calcutta (Anand Bazar Patrika), Pune (Sakal), Bangalore (Kannada Prabha). Everyone asked me various questions few of them took my Photographs too, as I was having rucksack with me because I decided to spend the day for News Paper work. After coming back at Lajpat Bhavan I tried to meet Mr. Satya Paul but could not. He was always busy. On the second day in Delhi cable TV interviewed me and shooting was on the highway. Interview was for more than half an hour. It was great experience for me it was like a film. All previous interviews were inside the studios but only Delhi interview was outside of the studio. While many people watch me during shooting. I was very happy. Later I went to Sri Lanka Embassy but it was closed. They were having holiday. I visited INS building contacted Mr. Rajeev Khandekar of Loksatta News Paper from Mumbai. He showed me my news in Loksatta. In the evening while coming back by bus to Lajpat Bhavan I met a nice person, he asked me to come to Doordarshan office the next day. He was working in Doordarshan as a host actor for “One hour live show”. His name was Mr. Mathur. The 21st January was the happiest day, the first step towards the success of the expedition. I went to Sri Lanka Embassy, I was worried whether I would get visa or not. The Embassy officer asked me many questions and saw my application form. I attached the letter of Ministry of External Affairs too. He asked me to pay Rs.140 and asked to come at 4.30 p.m. The time he asked me for money I understood and got happy. I came out and went to Doordarshan office met Mr. Mathur and showed him all the documents. He asked me to wait. I waited for long time but he did not turn up. Later I enquired with other officers but even they could not help me. I was very angry on those people for wasting my time. It was high time of waiting, I moved immediately to the office of the Sri Lanka Embassy. I was still afraid but once I went inside, I got very happy, visa was in my hand, it was for a month and validity was for three months. Last three days I spent on meeting few good personalities and tried for sponsorship I visited Kodak India’s office and met Marketing Manager, explained him and requested to give me a letter to get the Film Rolls in concession rates anywhere in India. But he replied it would not be possible. Visited NMNH (National Museum of Natural History) and got many Posters and Stickers, more than 200 on OZONE protection & clean & healthy environment. I liked the stickers very much, it was conveying message clearly. The sticker was having a picture like our palm protects the earth from Ultra violet-B rays. It was mainly designed to make aware about Ozone and it’s protection. For the first month of the Expedition, I struggled hard to keep my closest friends informed of my progress through letters and e-mail. But the effort was too much, so from Delhi onwards I adopted the diary-keeping method, used by most travelers and expeditionary and sent installments, whenever a reliable looking post office appeared en route. Here are some facts that I noticed about Delhi. It contains what are probably the finest monuments in any city in India. The Qutab Minar, one of the city's most famous sights, is a 5-storey, 72-metre tower of red sandstone. It was begun in 1199 as a symbol of Muslim victory and power and used for hundreds of years by muezzins (mosque officials) calling the faithful to prayer. Near the Qutab is one of Delhi's most remarkable sights, a simple pillar, set up about A.D. 400. It weighs over 6 metric tons, stands more than 7 metres high and has never rusted. The citadel of Tughluqabad was a major centre of power for about ten years in the 1300's and has been a wasteland of ruins ever since. In the beautiful Lodi Gardens is the cemetery of the Lodi kings, who ruled India from Delhi during the 1400's and were overthrown by the Mughals in 1526. Shah Jahan's Lal Qila (Red Fort) dates from the 1600's. Its walls of red sandstone enclose elegant halls and pavilions where the Mughal emperors held lavish ceremonies and gave audience to subjects and ambassadors. The Jama Masjid is the biggest mosque in all India and was also built by Shah Jahan. One day luckily I met Mr. Satya Paul and Secretary of the Servants of the People Society, Mr. Shrof. As Mr. Satya Paul was always busy, but Secretary Mr. Shrof was from Ahamadabad and was more than 80 years old. He was the man of principle. Every day he does everything in time. He spends his one-hour of day for making thread of cotton on Charkha (the hand made machine like the one on which Gandhiji used to work) for his own clothes. He always uses Khadi and suggested me to use Khadi. Frankly speaking during expedition I could not wore Khadi Clothes, but now after coming back from the expedition, partially I started using Khadi. I met Mr. Rajeev Khandekar, he told me that one lady Mrs. Rashmi Ghatwai would like to talk to me as she read my news in “Loksatta” News Paper. He gave her number I called up and spoke to her for five minutes. She was very happy and excited to meet me. She invited me to come to her house on Sunday. She told she was waiting for my call and was excited to meet. On Sunday I spent whole day at Mrs. Rashmi Ghatwai’s house. She was an environmentalist. Mr. Kishore her husband works in Bharat Petrolium. We had a talk about the expedition and even I came to know lot about her. Her articles got published in LOKPRABHA (Marathi Language famous Magazine). She has her own NGO called HOPE which works for environment. She has performed street shows and many other activities to make people aware about the problems of environment. She was a mother of two daughters and still spending time to do something for the environment. Her house was in Noida I walked from Noida to Lajpat Bhavan after the lunch, which was around 20 Km. Many times during the expedition I saw that people beat the Bulls or Horses’ or buffalo’s etc. even after those animal carrying lot of weight and running on the road. But still the stupid people unnecessary beat those animals. I really saw there was no need but people have hunter in their hands and so they beat otherwise they do not feel like driving a Bullock Cart or a carry van. I get angry whenever I see the hunter in the hands of people those who drive Bullock Cart or a carry van. I thought why Govt. couldn’t make more strict laws against cruelty to animals. If I would be the law minister I would have made a law that no Bullock Cart or carry van person will have hunter or stick or any thing in their hand. They can control the animals with their hands and off course with LAGAM. Inside the city many places Traffic Police are on duty. If they see such beating incident they would fine the person or send him away from the Bullock Cart or carry van for whole day. So at least the animals will be sitting peacefully for a day. It was the evening of 25th January I saw beautiful scene on Rajpath {(The main road goes to Rashtrapati Bhavan (President’s House)}. It was looking so beautiful that everyone would have liked to spend whole night on the Rajpath. The preparation was going on for celebrating the Republic Day on 26th January. Whole Rajpath, Rshtrapati Bhavan and India Gate were lighted. Thousands of flags were LAHARA RAHE THE Many security guards were doing their job for the safety of the next day’s program. The whole area was cleaned and decorated with the flowers. In 1912, the capital of India was moved from Calcutta to Delhi. Plans were also made to build a new capital just outside Delhi, away from that crowded city, 5 kilometres to the south of Old Delhi in the early 1900's. It lies on the Jumna (or Yamuna) River, a tributary of the Ganges (or Ganga), in north central India. The English architects Sir Herbert Baker and Sir Edwin L. Lutyens planned the layout and designed buildings for the new city. Construction began in 1912 but was delayed during World War I (1914-1918). In 1931, New Delhi was completed and became the capital of India. The resulting complex is a spacious, attractive, and carefully planned city, with broad, tree-lined avenues and many open areas, parks, gardens, and fountains. The city remained the capital after India gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1947. India's constitution went into effect on Jan. 26, 1950. Since then, January 26 has been a national holiday called Republic Day. New Delhi has an annual Republic Day celebration, which features a huge parade. But I was going to miss the event. Actually my plan was to walk, carrying my message at the time when all the states of India perform their cultural show on Rajpath, in short I was wanted to walk on Rajpath, so that my message could have reached to billions and billions of Indians. I tried a lot to get the permission when I spend a month before I start the expedition, even went to Prime Minister and President’s office but it was just impossible. On 26th I moved towards Jaipur and reached the pink city after crossing two villages Gurgaon and Kotputti where I spent the nights in the asylums. Jaipur city's remarkable buildings include a palace, an open-air astronomical observatory, and the elegant five-storey building known as Hawa Mahal or Palace of Winds, from which women of the Maharaja's harem were able to peer out at the world unobserved through its 593 windows and peepholes. In Jaypur I could contact Rotaractor Sandeep who helped me a lot. First he took me to the City Cable Television office and later at a Hindi News Paper. I have been interviewed both the places. He dropped at the D.A.V. Public School at Vaishali Nagar where I got help of Principal Mr. Goel (Ref- Satya Paul –Servants of the people Society) for accommodation and put me in the School’s guest house. The next day morning in Jaypur I delivered the message to the same school students. Most of the Schools I noticed that the impact of my speech was more on the students below 10th standard or students of less than 17 yrs of age. One girl after the speech gave me address of her Uncle, as she was encouraged by my talk and her Uncle was involved in doing the similar kind of work. I moved towards Ajmer, which was around 120 Km. On the way I found another School Tagore Public School and after getting the permission I delivered the message to nearly around 1000 students and it was great experience too. I thought of visiting Mr. Manoj Kulshreshtha, Uncle of the small girl, his house was near by. I spent some time knowing his activity. He was associated with WWF and BNHS (Mumbai) and did lot of projects. He was a specialist in Bird watching. It was great pleasure to meet such type of environmentalist. I had snacks at his place and moved ahead. There was another funny experience on this highway. At a check post two Traffic Police stopped me and asked, “what you are selling?” I was angry on the stupid Police, I was on the highway and they saw me coming from long distance still they asked me such question (Sales man will sale the things in the city not on the highway?) I didn’t reply just laughed but one of them opened side pouch of the rucksack and took out my toothbrush and said, “So, you are selling tooth brush give me one (off course free).” I opened my mouth and explained them about my expedition both they felt ashamed on their behavior. I met a very nice truck driver when I asked for hitchhiking he told me that he would not go to Ajmer but would drop for 30 Km as Ajmer was still 90 Km but then he enquired me about the work I do. When I explained him about the expedition he was so happy that he changed his route for me. He was supposed to go to Udaypur from different and short route but I couldn’t believe that just for me he changed his route. Even I told him I would get any other truck, please do not trouble yourself. But he didn’t listen, changed the route and dropped me at Ajmer in the evening at around 6 O’clock. Many times I met same kind of truck drivers, some times even I used to have lunch with them. I got lot of help from the truck drivers in all over India. Because of those kind people I could travel without money. Mostly I got help for hitchhiking in India and Vietnam. After Ajmer next five day’s I spent mostly in the villages and stayed in the Asylums. First night I spent at a village called BHIM it was around 80 Km. I had a very nice walk, I used to take rest for 15-20 minutes every after two hours. I used to have fruits and snacks on the way. People used to ask me and used to look at me with the curiosity. In the evening time wherever the distance was more than 45 Km I used to hitchhike. Second day at Rajsamand village, which was again around 80 Km. Third day to Udaipur, which was 60 Km. Fourth day to Himatnagar and fifth day I had lot of problems in walking. My legs and ankles were paining a lot got pimples too on the toes. I didn’t walk much hitchhiked till Ahamadabad. There in Ahamadabad I contacted Mr. Joshi (Ref- Satya Paul –Servants of the people Society) he was not at home but spoke to his daughter on the phone. I explained her and given reference of Satya Paul Uncle she asked me to call again after some time. I called up and got the reply that I should go to Bhagat Mahila Chatralaya, she already informed in charge of Bhagat Mahila Chatralaya. When I reached came to know it was a girls hostel. An 80-year-old lady welcomed me everyone used to call her maji. I kept my rucksack and told them that I would be coming at night. I called Rotaractor Bhavesh whose number was with me I explained him and requested him to accompany me for the Rotary Club meeting. He came down to the hostel picked me and took me to Rotarian Patwardhan’s Office. I explained him about my expedition and the way I walk i.e. with the help of Rotary He asked us to come to the meeting which was going to be there on the same day. Evening at around 7 O’clock, it was the meeting time we went to Ellicebridge Gymkhana. Rotarian Patwardhan introduced me to the Rotarians and asked me to talk. It was the second Rotary Club, provided financial assistance. I thanked them Rotaractor Bhavesh dropped me back to the Hostel. When Maji got to know more about me, she was very much impressed for the work that I was doing and took lot of care. Mr. Joshi told me to stay in University and have food in the Hostel. But Maji does not wanted me to stay away she asked and forced me to stay in the Hostel itself. I had dinner and went to sleep. I got a big hall where 3-4 workers were there with me to sleep. It was my second day in Ahamadabad I was not feeling well, my stomach was having some problem. Maji told me that stomach problem was because of change in water. I went to a clinic, there was a lady homeopathic doctor. I requested her for free treatment after showing the letter of Indian Medical Association. She gave me homeopathic medicine and suggested me to visit the nearest hospital i.e. “Sushrusha” for allopathic treatment to get recover fast. I went to “Sushrusha” and contacted Dr. Mohale explained, showed the same letter and requested for free treatment. He prescribed medicines for five days and told me not to eat solid for at least 2-3 days and take enough rest. He asked me to take precaution of drinking water. That was first time in the expedition I fall sick and went to the hospital. I thought of spending time watching cricket (India-Pakistan) match. So, I went to Rotaractor Pathik’s office and requested him to drop me at his house. He dropped me at his house his brother Ashok was at home so I spent whole day at his house. In the evening Ashok took me to the meeting of Rotary Club of Metro and that was the third Club provided financial assistance. On the way I bought medicines of Rs. 139/- Rotaractor Ashok dropped me to the hostel. I bought many Electrol Packets as Doctor suggested me to drink Electrol or Glucose. I explained Maji about the sickness, she immediately asked a servant to bring curd from the market. She gave me rice and curd to eat I drank Electrol water after dinner and slept at 10 O’clock. To have the fulfillment of a Twenty-four-year-old ambition apparently within one’s grasp can be quite disconcerting. This was a moment I had thought about so often that when I actually found myself living through it, I felt as though some favourite scene from a novel had come, incredibly to life. However with in a few weeks my journey had degenerated from a happy-go-lucky walk to a grim struggle for progress by any means. At first my disappointment was acute, but I had set out to enjoy myself by seeing the world, delivering the speech through the schools, Colleges and Rotary Clubs. Not very serious to make or brake any record but to do some thing different in life. So I soon became adjusted to these conditions, which led to quite a few interesting adventures that you will come across while reading. Ahamadabad lies on the Sabarmati River, in India's cotton-growing region. The city is the nation's textile manufacturing and trade centre. The city is divided into two sections, one each side of the Sabarmati. On the eastern bank lies the original city dating back to the 1400's. This is an overcrowded area with densely packed houses and busy shops. Weaving mills and other factories stand on the outskirts. This eastern part of Ahmadabad has many historical monuments. It is a beautiful city, with splendid mosques and many examples of Hindu, Muslim, and Jain architecture. On the west bank of the river, linked to eastern Ahmadabad by the Ellis Bridge, lies the sprawling modern area of the city. Western Ahmadabad includes many upper-class suburbs and the principal shopping and leisure areas. I was not having enough time with me. I thought of reaching Bombay (Mumbai) and take rest there, as there was lot of work to do. The next day I decided to walk and hitchhike I was feeling better compare to yesterday. Maji blessed me, I said goodbye to all and moved ahead. On the way I got a bad experience, a drunker snatched my camera from my pouch but I hold his hand and part of camera. He was shouting and asking, what I have in the bag? He was not ready to leave my camera. First I was scared but later I took aggressive stand. The whole drama was continued for 5 minutes, on a tea stall few people were watching the drama. One of them came and helped me he shouted on him and gave my camera back to me. I thanked him and moved ahead. I had fruits and electrol water after regular interval. In the afternoon at a check post I requested the officer to help me for lift (hitchhike) I waited for an hour but I was not getting lift. I tried to remind him, he shouted on me, “Since one hour I am watching you, why are you standing here?” as he shouted on me tears came out. When the other officer saw tears in my eyes, they shouted on him. I moved ahead, other officer tried to call me back for the assistance but I didn’t stopped. Ahead after some time I got lift and the truck driver dropped me at a Dhaba (Highway Hotel) near Surat as he was going in different direction. I was facing many problems, at night on the Dhaba I had rice and took medicines. I explained and requested Dhaba owner for spending night. He was very kind he asked me to sleep inside near the heat. I spent whole night but could not sleep properly. In the morning the Dhaba owner helped me for hitchhike he asked a truck driver to drop me at Thane. But the driver dropped 50 Km before Thane as he was also going in different direction. It was afternoon I had fruits and took medicine in that village and walked ahead. I tired to walk but felt weakness but because of fruits and electrol water I got the power to walk. I walked less and took more rest at the same time I was trying for hitchhike but all in vain. In the evening I got traffic Police booth. First time I felt like I got god because it was high time of tolerance and was just impossible to walk. I explained the Policeman present there and requested to help for hitchhike. He asked me to wait, gave me biscuits to eat. Spent almost an hour with him, he was very happy and was enquiring a lot about the expedition. At around 8 O’clock he asked one truck driver to drop me in Thane, which was I believe around 40 Km from that place. At last I reached Thane at 9 p.m. I knew Mr. Kishor Lokhande (brother of Mr. Vijay Lokhande, coach of Ajeentha Sports Club) lives in Thane but I was not having his number or address. So first time I called up Aurangabad spoke to Mr. Supekar (my coach) and got the phone number. I called up and spoke to Mr. Lokhande He gave me his residence address and asked me to come. It was 10 O’clock to reach his house. He welcomed me and asked to have food. First I took bath and told Sir and Bhabi (his wife) that I would eat only rice because of stomach problem. Whole body was paining so slept immediately after chatting for little time. Next morning I made call to Leena’s (Friend) house and got phone number of her brother Harshad and Amod Kulkarni, lives in Bombay. Then I called up Harshad and told him that I would be coming to his house by evening. I thanked Sir and Bhabi and moved out with their blessings. It was just 20 Km walk and I reached at Amod’s house at 2.30 p.m. Everyone welcomed me, they all were surprised and shocked that I spent two months walking from north to south. I took bath, had lunch and spent time watching TV. I decided to take enough rest and recover fast. It was the greatest day of my life (met Sachin Tendulkar). On the second day in Mumbai I visited BNHS and WWF but got disappointment. I visited their office for help to deliver my message all over Bombay through Media, like TV and News Paper. I wanted to get converted Indian Rupees in to US$. So Amod and me first went to SBI (State Bank of India) but here came to know getting US$ was very difficult task, no doubt if you have Visa. You must have tickets too. Without tickets it’s difficult. Even we contacted Branch Manager but he asked many questions and denied for any possibility. Then we went to IOB (Indian Overseas Bank) got the same answer, the branch manager told we would have issued $ if you have account with us. The officer suggested us to visit Thomas Cook. Harshad’s friend was working in Thomas Cook he spoke to Mr. Aldrine explained him and requested him to help me Mr. Aldrine asked to visit his office. Amod and me went to Thomas Cook, showed him all the documents he faxed few of them to his boss and asked his opinion on phone. I got the green signal I was having travelers cheques of SBI. Mr. Aldrine asked us to encash it from the nearest branch of SBI. We moved out and encashed all cheques of Rs. 40,000 (the money I got from my hometown from my sports Club, Rotary Club, City Corporation, and by a Politician) and came back. I saw my file was lying on the table. When we were out, mean time the office staff had gone through my file and got to know about my expedition. Many staff members enquired in detail about my expedition. Mr. Aldrine was helping me a lot. I got US$ 950 against Rs. 40,000. I kept 500 rupees with me. Mr. Aldrine gifted me a west pouch, which I gave it to Amod later. I completed very big work just because of Harshad. We came back home at 4 O’clock had lunch and spent time watching TV. I called up Mr. Sanjay Singh of Zee TV (Friend of Rashmi-Delhi) and explained him. He told me it is not possible for him and such news they get readymade from news agency’s he asked me to contact Mr. Salman who was working for Bombay Sity Cable (A television channel) he gave me his Phone and Pager number. When I contacted Mr. Salman, he asked me, my contact number and said that he would call next day morning for the confirmation of place for the interview. Next day, he called me in the morning and asked to come near Church gate at 11 O’clock, he gave me detailed address. Mr. Salman came at 11.45 he spent half an hour more making arrangement. Many people watched me during shooting and it was another great experience. Until July 28, 1995, Mumbai was known as Bombay. The name Mumbai comes from the goddess Mumba, which is the local name for Parvati, the wife of the Hindu god Shiva. Mumbai has been India's chief western seaport since the 1700's, and has been called the Gateway to Asia. It is also an important financial centre, the home of India's diamond-cutting industry, and the heart of the Indian film industry. One of the most famous landmarks in Mumbai is the Gateway of India. This huge arch commemorates the visit to India in 1911 of King George V. In the evening I went to play Table Tennis (the housing society was having a Table in a big hall) As soon as I entered in to the hall I was surprised and shocked I couldn’t believe on my eyes, Sachin was sitting on a chair. Yes Sachin Tendulkar the great Cricketer in the World and pride of India. I was stunt for two minutes, I did not understand what to do I was watching him with the big eyes. I went home brought Camera, Amod was playing Table Tennis. I asked Sachin for few Photographs with him. First I explained Sachin about my Expedition and took Photographs. It was great moment of my life. Sachin wished me for the success of the expedition. Amod and Harshad used to play with him as he was staying in the same society. Now he has big Bungalows but still he stays sometime with his parents. I saw his daughter who was just One year old looks like Sachin. I packed my rucksack and told everyone that I would be leaving next day. Aunty took lot of care in those 3-4 days, she used to force me to eat enough food. Harshad and Amod were very good to me they helped me a lot in Mumbai. It was time to say goodbye to Mumbai. Uncle and Aunty blessed me before leaving. Aunty packed little food and fruits for me. She repeatedly asked me if I want anything more. I thanked them all and moved ahead. Now I was much better and healthy. I wore a (Burmuda) half jeans pant given by Amod. Earlier, I used to wear full pant, but because it was summer season, so I started using Half Pant. During walk I noticed change in behavior of the people. It was the effect of Western Culture One person said “Hello !!!!!!!” It never used to happen before but because I was wearing a nice half Bermuda type of Short, people changed their look and there was respect in their behaviour. PUNE was 190 km from Mumbai. Whole day I was searching for a tree on the highway to take rest in shadow as it was hot but didn’t find even a single tree for Kilometers. I walked till evening and hitchhiked. Reached Pune at 8 O’clock and contacted Rotaractor Vikram Kothari (who met me in “Rotasia” A big meeting of Rotaractors-Agra) he asked me to wait at a hotel. Mean time I called up Mr. Milind Deshmukh (Ref- Servants of India Soc- Delhi -Mr. Satya Paul who has already sent a letter to many people of different cities in India and the same list was with me.) and got disappoint. I was not happy with his behaviour, he told, “spend a night anywhere in the hotel and come to me during office hours, I would see what best I can do for you.” People in other State that I crossed, helped and welcomed me even at night at 12 p.m. but Home State people shut their houses for me (off course not all). Rotaractor Vikram picked me and took me to another member’s House. Those Rotaractors called up another two members Matthias and Sujay. It was 10.30 I told them that I would be staying at Servants of India Soc. the next day, so Matthias agreed to keep me for the night at his house. We reached at Matthias’ house at 12 and slept at 12.45 Next day after break fast I called up Mr. Milind Deshmuckh (Servants of India Soc.) he asked me to come to the office. He was a cool and interestless person, he didn’t enquired about expedition. He asked one of the servants to open a guesthouse for me. I got a place to stay I washed few clothes and visited S.P. High School with 3-4 Rotaractors but Principal did not allowed to talk. In the evening I attained Rotary and Rotaract Club meetings. At night I called up at our neighbor’s place and kept message for my brother to come to Pune with the cards. I was having around 2000 small cards at my home (total I was having 5000 out of which 3000 I distributed in the schools since I started the expedition. The cards were little bigger than Visiting Cards, made by cutting the remaining greeting cards, with the message on it.) I used to distribute those cards in the Schools amongst the students. I came back to the guest house at 11 and slept at 11.45 In Pune City, which is known as the house of education, I tried to visit few Schools but because of exams in the next month no one wanted to waste their valuable time. No one allowed me to talk. In the evening I attained Rotary and Rotaract Clubs meetings where I got financial support from two Rotary Clubs. Today I enjoyed a play organized by Rotary Club of Hill Side. It was really best play. I spent a nice time in Pune City, second day morning Salil picked me and took me at Rotarian Kshirsagar’s house. I got a surprise my brother was there with Mr. Nilesh Kapadia (One of the great supporter in the success of this expedition) after spending some time with them whole day I visited News Paper Offices to deliver my message. In the evening I attained 3-4 Rotaract Club meetings and delivered the speech amongst all young college girls and guys, Rotaract members. I came back at 8 O’clock my brother was waiting for me, we went out for dinner. I gave him unwanted material to take back. Next day I moved out with brother had breakfast said goodbye to him and started towards Satara. In the evening I reached Satara by walk and hitchhike at 7 O’clock. This town is situated on the hills lots of trees on the highway as well as inside the city too. I went to Rotaractor Vinod Lahoti’s place at a Clothe shop “Lahoti Collections”. He was also aware about my expedition (Agra Meeting). With in no time he asked me to stay at his house his house was on the top of the shop itself. He took me up stair introduced to his mother called up 4-5 members and decided the next days program. Had very good dinner at his house. I was really enjoying the expedition because I was getting good people. In this town in the morning first we visited a News Paper Office then around 6-7 enthusiastic girls and persons Rotaract members visited S.E.M.S. School. Rotaractor Vinod was having very good rapport with the Principal, he asked a teacher to gather students outside. After the speech Principal asked us to wait, he was very happy and impressed. He asked to bring cold drinks and snacks for us and he forced us to have it even after denying a lot. These Rotaractors were also impressed and later respected highly. We visited one more School and got the same response. I did not wanted to spend much time after the speech. I carried my rucksack, thanked everyone and moved out towards Karad another small town, which was just 30 Km. Vinod asked his man to drop me on the highway. I reached Karad at 8 O’clock Vinod already informed a Rotaract member Sagar and he gave me his phone number to contact him as soon as I reached Karad I called up Rotaractor Sagar, he came with his three more friends, first we had dinner in the nearest hotel and then he asked me to stay with Rotaractor Krishna who was staying alone and was originally from Kolhapur. I was crossing the villages one by one and delivering the message everywhere, wherever I got chance. In that small town also, I visited two schools and first time in my expedition small students came up with the query. Sagar took me to his Health Fitness Factory and then moved ahead towards Kolhapur. The ankle and toe problem started again I thought of showing it to a Doctor in Kolhapur. At 6 O’clock around 15 Km before Kolhapur a Car stopped, person sitting in the car asked me “Are you Praveen Ohal?” I replied, yes. He asked me to come inside and told me that he got the information from Rotaractor Vinod. His name was Milind Dhond and was one of the richest in Kolhapur. Owner of many companies in India as well as in Dubai too. He put me in the best hotel, Hotel Ayodhya. The rent I believe was not less than Rs. 300. I never stayed in such a big Hotel. After getting ready he took me to a Café restaurant where another person Rotaractor Asif Shaikh was. Both they were praising a lot and asked many questions. Mr. Milind called up Rotaractors of Hubli and Belgum told them to help me whenever I would be in their town. I requested to make two banners to put on my rucksack stating “Save Earth-Plant trees” so that people should know why I walk otherwise people thinks that I am a salesman. Mr. Milind supported me financially too. I never met any Rotaractor like him who would spend so much on me. He spoke to the Principal of Seventh Day Adventist and fixed up the timing for the talk. I thanked him a lot, as I would be moving ahead the next day after school speech and would not see him again. In the morning visited Seventh Day Adventist School and delivered speech. Principal was very enthusiastic. I visited two more schools with Rotaractor Abhay had lunch and got the banners. The message was clear with the picture of tree in between words i.e. Save Earth and Plant Trees. I putted one banner on my rucksack and other I kept in the rucksack. I saw my news in Sakal News Paper. After thanking all Rotaractors I moved ahead towards Belgaum. Reached by walk and hitchhiking at 9.30 but the truck dropped me out of the town. I called up Rotarian Manohar Watwe from Rotary Club of Belgaum Midtown, gave ref of Rotaractor Milind Dhond he asked me to wait for his call on the same phone number. After ten minutes he called me and asked me to go to the nearest hotel i.e. Hotel Hanuman On the highway. He booked a room for me in a three star hotel. He told me that he would be contacting me the next day morning. As per the promise next day morning Rotary Club President, Secretary and Rotarian Watwe came to the Hotel. After introduction and knowing more about me first they took me to the Office of the famous Local News Paper “Tarun Bharat” and Later City Cable Television. Both the places beautiful lady took my interview. Later we visited a School where I got 4th, 5th and 6th standard students to deliver the speech. In the afternoon we had lunch, I thanked them and moved ahead. I was in a hurry to move towards Hubli, after few hours walk in the evening I hitchhiked. The truck driver and cleaner were very nice on the way they stopped and prepared dinner, as it was their time of dinner they served me too. Sometimes I felt of leaving the first truck and take another but the driver and cleaner becomes so close friend that even they do not want me to leave half way and even I did not liked leaving them and catching another one. At night at 11.45 I reached Hubli and called up Rotaractor Pawan Haribal (who was informed by Milind Dhond) he asked me to go to Hotel Vipra, which belongs to his uncle and would talk to hotel manager. It was very near I got a room as Rotaractor Pawan already told manager about me. I was in Karnataka and decided to spend a day there because every day I was walking and wanted to take a day rest even I wanted to visit Doctor to get medicine for my toes as pimples on the toes were troubling a lot. First I visited a nearest small clinic after explaining requested for free treatment. He was very nice Doctor, he suggested me a cream to use. I came back to the hotel Rotaractor Pawan took me to the Rotary English medium School. That day I had given the longest speech ever in my expedition and got the same response. I washed few clothes and in the evening I explained Rotaractors in a meeting how they can carry on awareness program and what they can do to save our mother earth. I was approaching towards Bangalore before I reach Bangalore I stayed a night in Davangere in a lodge and next day when I left Davangere I met few Rotaract members in the city. One of them was very active he went to City Cable Television (Local TV channel) office and came along with the reporter. We were in the main area of the city people were watching me and were curious. The City Cable Television reporter took interview and shooting. After spending lot of time they dropped me on the highway. I reached Bangalore by walk and hitchhike at 5.30 p.m. I called up many Rotaract members but I could not get any one at last I took out Mr.Satya Paul’s (Delhi) list and visited Vallabhniketan (asylum for orphans) his place was still 15 Km far I reached by walk at 9.30 contacted Mr. E. P. Menon who welcomed me when I showed him the letter of Mr. Satya Paul. First he took me out in the hotel for dinner. He told me about himself that he has also traveled world on foot. I got a guest room to sleep. In Bangalore I visited schools but got the worst experience. Principal and teachers were very narrow-minded. I wasted my whole day visiting schools and trying for the permission. In Bangalore I got financial support from Peeniya Rotary Club. Bangalore was founded by Kempe Gowda, a local chieftain, in 1537. He called the city Bengaluru, which means village of boiled beans. He built three chattris (pavilions) to mark the city limits. One of these pavilions, rebuilt by Hyder Ali in 1761, can still be seen in the Lal Bagh Botanic Garden. The city's parks include Cubbon Park, was laid out in 1864 and Lal Bagh Botanic Garden, was laid out by Hyder Ali in the 1700's. The city's main problem has been a severe shortage of water. Bangalore has no local rivers and an annual rainfall of only about 90 centimetres. The problem has become worse with the growth of population and industrial activity. But water from the Cauvery River is now being supplied direct through almost 80 kilometres of pipeline. I moved out of Bangalore with not good experience. I thanked Prof. E. P. Menon and moved out of Vallabhniketan. I walked towards Mysore and reached in the evening mostly by hitchhike. After contacting few Rotaractors phone numbers one suggested me to go for Rotary Club meeting. It was Human Rights Day and Rotary was celebrating it. I was lucky to deliver the speech on that day and one of the Rotarian praised a lot stating, “I should get all success in achieving peace and love amongst people of the World.” I have got little financial support from the club and for accommodation same Rotarian came forward, Rotarian Panchajanyam who was very much interested in me. He asked me to seat in his car and took me to a hotel. He sponsored the stay, I thanked him a lot and had dinner after checking in. Then I got a call from Rotarian Shyamsunder who was very enthusiastic, Rotarian Panchajanyam told him about me and help me for spreading the message in the school. He asked me to give call next day for visiting school. I called Rotarian Shyamsunder next day morning. He said sorry for not arranging any school. I told him that I would visit nearest schools. I visited two schools but didn’t find any possibility of talk. I was really frustrated thinking what kind of people are there in the south. After explaining that I am spending my two years to save our mother earth, can’t you allow me to talk to your students for just 15 minutes? But no effect I came back with the frustration. I called up Rotarian Shyamsunder and told him that I would be leaving immediately. He wanted to meet me once before I go so he came down to the hotel and said he would drop me on the highway. On the way he showed me Mysore Palace but because of time constraint we took Photographs at the gate. I thanked him and moved ahead. On the way, I got Bandipur National Park and that was not possible to cross by walk and even very less chances of hitchhiking, the road goes through forest (Park) and was more than 60 Km. so I got into the Bus. Luckily I met a person who was working in the National Park, so rest of the time I spent chatting with him and got following information. India currently has 85 national Parks covering 3.6 million sq. km. and 448 wildlife sanctuaries covering about 120,000 sq. kms. in the major biogeographic zones. The total extent of protected areas includes 5 World Heritage sites, 9 Biosphere Reserves and 6 Ramsar sites. The forest is indeed impressive, it is overrun with tribal hunters from several local groups. Snares and booby traps of all kinds await their animal victims on the forest trails, Hunters armed with guns or even poison arrows stalk and kill anything large that moves. I heard that more than 20 different hunting techniques used by local people. Giant squirrels, flying squirrels, monitor lizards and even monkeys are hunted with bows that shoot projectiles of hardened clay. Deer and wild pigs, and occasionally leopards are choked to death in wire snares cunningly concealed across their paths. Monkeys, mouse deer and hares are chased with dogs and clubbed to death, sometimes after being driven into nets. Species that rest or nest in tree-cavities, such as flying squirrels, palm civets, hornbills and other birds are pulled out and killed by experts who can climb giant forest trees using nothing more than simple notches cut on their boles. Pangolins, porcupines and monitor lizards are smoked out of their underground burrows. Such deadly skills of forest people, developed through centuries of tradition, are now at the service of international wildlife trade for a price of a few hundred rupees or even a bottle of country-made liquor. When, there was constant propaganda that the tribal people are involved in wildlife trading as well as destroying forest, some of the villagers, they countered the complaint by asking how they could destroy the forest. They owned no trucks; they hardly had even a bullock-cart; the utmost that they could carry away was a headload of produce for sale to maintain their families and that too against a license. The utmost that they wanted was wood to keep them warm in the winter months, to reconstruct or repair their huts and carry on their little cottage industries. Their fuel-needs for cooking, they said, were not much, for they had not much to cook. Having explained their own position they invariably turned to the amount of (forest) destruction that was taking place all around them. They asked how the ex-zamindars (landlords), in violation of their agreements and the forest rules and laws, devastated vast tracts of forest land right in front of officials. They also related how the contractors stray outside the contracted coupes, carry loads in trucks in excess of their authorized capacity and otherwise exploit both the forest and the tribal people. There is feeling among the tribals that all the arguments in favour of preservation and development of forests are intended to refuse them their demands. They argue that when it is a question of industry, township, development work or projects of rehabilitation, all these possible arguments are forgotten and vast tracts are placed at the disposal of outsiders who mercilessly destroy the forest wealth with or without necessity. I saw Monkeys on both sides of the road staring at the visitors for food. I really felt bad because many villagers cut the trees and it affects on these animals. They do not get fruits of the trees and so they stare for food. I saw Deer’s, Peacocks and Elephants. In that area I saw many people use Elephant for their own work, where as Bandipur National Park is known for Elephants. It was midnight at 12 O’clock, when I reached Coimbatore. I tried to call few Rotaractors but I could not contact any one. I visited the nearest Police Station and requested the duty Officer to help me for spending night. The officer asked me to go to police Club that was around 2 Km. It was first time that I was walking after 12 O’clock in the night. I met a person on the way looked like a bad man he asked me where I am going so just to avoid him I lied and said I am a police and going for the training to Police Club. I found myself that I have become courageous person. I reached Police Club and contacted duty officer, explained him and requested to help for spending the night. He was very nice he agreed but before that he asked me to take out everything out of the rucksack. He told me that last year there was Bomb explosion in Coimbatore so they had to perform their duty. Officer made arrangement in a lodge. It was 2 O’clock to sleep. Next day I got up little let and called up the same number of a Rotaractor that I tried last night. But this time I got Rotaractor Mohammad it was his office so I couldn’t get him last night. I explained him little about the expedition and requested him to come. He came down and took me to the factory (his own factory). Here I explained him in detail. He was shocked and started calling other Rotaractors he took me to Rotaractor Santosh’s house where two more members were there from Bangalore Rotaract Club, Niraj and Chandan. I had lunch at his house. His family members were praising a lot but his mother and grandmother both could not understand Hindi so they were facing many problems while talking to me but they were wanted to talk to me much and they took help of Santosh. Actually in South India people do not speak Hindi Language, widely spoken languages in south are the local languages. After lunch Rotaractor Santosh took us at a sports club in his car. We enjoyed swimming in the Club. In the evening there was inauguration of Annual District Rotaract Trekking Program. We went to the venue where Santosh asked one of the members to go with me to get my rucksack from the lodge. I carried my rucksack, thanked the lodge member and tried to meet the Police officer who helped me at night but he was not there. I kept the message for him and requested the other officer to convey my regards. Came back at the venue, it was a play theater and there were not less than 500 people. There was dinner followed by inaugural function and Cultural program. I got the opportunity to say few words and delivered my message to the audience. I noticed one thing during dinner the organizers means Rotaractors used Plastic glasses and Silver-plated Paper Dishes that is not environment friendly they should have used washable glasses and plates fully environment friendly. I found the same thing many places. Even educated people do not understand the importance and use non-environment friendly material. I have noticed not only educated people but also the people who work for environment and related field they are not dedicated. You will find very few people who put their heart and soul for saving our mother earth, whichever way they can. Rotaractor Santosh accommodated me in his house where the other two Rotaractors were also there. On Sunday all members were having Trekking program towards Ooty near Pillur Dam around 60 Km from Coimbatore. We all got ready and reached on the spot where every one supposed to gather. But as usual we were supposed to leave at 6.30 but moved at 7.30. We reached a village in an hour. There was a very big temple where in front of us lots of people were sacrificing Goats. I couldn’t dare to see the scene. In India one cannot convince the priest or people for not sacrificing goats. It is very difficult. If one tries to do it people would sacrifice that person also. We waited for the food and water because of improper planning and arrangement. At last few members came carrying food packets. Each person and girl got their own food packet and a water bottle for the day. We started at 11.30 to climb. But half an hour later everyone started eating, as everyone was hungry. There was another problem that no one was aware about the route to go to Pillur Dam. We used to ask villagers those whom we met on the way. But even then we missed the way and reached at a different place. It was a beautiful spot there was a waterfall around 150 feet high. We spent time at the bottom of the waterfall. We enjoyed a lot, but we were supposed to reach Pillur Dam by 6 O’clock so without wasting much time we started towards Dam searching and finding ways through forest. Finally we were successful to reach Pillur Dam most important was in time. Because bus was about to leave, it was 10 minutes past 6. First time in my expedition I enjoyed trekking with Rotaractors. At night we had dinner in the hotel and came back. When I was leaving Santosh’s house to go for the next destination, I saw tears in Aunty and grandmother’s eyes they loved me so much and treated as if I am part of their family and going away from them. Grandma prepared Dosa for me. I wanted to move towards Thrissur, (120 Km from Coimbatore) so I took blessings of all by touching their feet and moved ahead. Mostly in south sometimes I faced problem of hitchhiking because of language, at a place I saw a truck I met the driver and the helper they were preparing food. I explained them and requested to drop me at Thrissur. It was late evening but still I waited for them as they promised me to drop at Thrissur. After dinner they dropped me Thrissur at 10 O’clock and called up Rotaractor Solly Thomas. He came down to help me in his car with three other members. They made accommodation in a lodge, which was belongs to Rotaract member Jumman Koola. They did not wanted to take much time of mine, they asked me to take rest. After dinner I slept at 11.30 It was 2nd March and I was in Kerala. All Rotaract members kept informal meeting at lodge itself. When I explained them in detail as usual the same thing happened, they were shocked, praised and spent lot of time enquiring more about the expedition. So after spending little time and heavy breakfast one of the members dropped me on the highway. I moved towards Cochin (90 Km from Thrissur) and reached in the evening at 7.30 p.m. I saw a News Paper Office “Malyalam Manorama”, after little explanation reporter took my interview and even took a photograph the one with Sachin Tendulkar. Then from the office itself I called up Rotaractor Binu Ninan Philip, he asked me to wait out of the gate of the News Paper Office. He picked me and straightway put me in a very good hotel. He took me in good restaurant for dinner and said he will come the next day with more members. Next day few members came to see me, I spent time with them. Rotaractor Binu was very much impressed and wanted to show me few tourist places he arranged a car for it. But I got to see only a Church where Vascodegama’s dead body was kept for 14 year and later Portugal’s carried it to Lisbon. Due to time constraint I had to come back. I thanked all of them and started walk towards Quillon (Collam) (140 Km from Cochin) by walk and hitchhiking I reached 35 Km before Quillon at 10 O’clock. I never wanted to spend money on transportation but at night I could not get lift and because of language problem it was difficult to get place to sleep in villages in all over south. This time to reach Quillon I took bus. It was almost midnight 12. I called up Rotaractor Vinod and requested him to help me. He came at the Bus station with in ten minutes. I had dinner in the nearest hotel where I was waiting for him. Spend night at his house and could sleep at 1.00 a.m. I was not getting enough sleep. I was not feeling well again because of every day traveling and less sleep. I had breakfast and carried my rucksack. Rotaractor Vinod and other members were wanted me to visit local News Paper Office, which was on the way. So after interviewing in two News Paper Offices I thanked them and moved ahead towards Trivendrum. (Thiruvananthapuram) (70 Km) I was not at all feeling well I bought Electroll pack and had fruits on the way. After reaching Trivendrum I called up Rotaractor Arun, it was around 6 O’clock. He welcomed me, first I requested him to take me to Rotary Club meeting if any. Luckily there was a meeting and I got financial support. Rotaractor Arun accommodated me at his house. There were 10-12 members at his house waiting for us. All welcomed me and spent lot of time with me. It was after long time I washed my clothes and slept at night at 12. I was happy to celebrate the first country that I would visit from Trivendram. Today most important work was to be done. There first time my planning failed, as I planned to go to Colombo (Sri Lanka) by ship by requesting Captain to allow me to travel free against which I would work. But came to know that Govt. stopped Ship journey because of robbery and terrorism by LTTE (Liberation Tiger of Tamil Elam). I was in trouble, there was no alternative other than AirPlane. I knew it would cost me a lot. Even then I tried to search various ways, I thought I would go by air but could come back by Ship to Chennai (Madras). I was with one of the Rotaract member, Surya. First we visited Air Lanka’s office at AKG center enquired about the airfare and after explaining about my expedition I requested for concession and one way ticket. The officer told us that they cannot give any concession but Ticket Agents would help. We went to a ticket agent explained the lady and asked, if I could get one way ticket so while returning back I can travel by ship. But the lady told it is not possible. I must have return ticket with me then and then only airport officers would allow me to enter. After not finding any solution, I had to buy Ticket, (Trivendrum- Colombo -Chennai) which cost me 5820/ with concession. I had to use Thomas Cook traveler’s cheque (US$ 50) for the ticket, as I could not get enough funds since I left Mumbai. The flight was on the next day, 6th March at 8.30 in the morning. After that Surya and me visited office of Indian Express (News Paper) gave interview and then we went to Malyalam Manorama News Paper Office. I saw my news in Quillon edition with a big photograph of mine with Sachin. In the evening attained Rotaract Club meeting and then Rotary Club where I got financial assistance. After coming back I had dinner met everyone of Arun’s family thanked them all, Packed my rucksack, as reporting was at 6.30 a.m. I slept at night 12 again late. The day came to Fly I got ready by 6 O’clock and moved with Arun. He dropped me at the Airport I thanked him and entered inside. I was so excited, because first time I would be flying in the sky as well as the first country of the Expedition I was going to. It was first time in my life that I would go out of India. I took a trolley but before that I enquired whether it was free or have to pay anything. But it was free I put my rucksack and moved for Custom Clearance, Immigration, Security Check etc. It took two hours to complete the procedure. Then I realized why reporting time was two hours before the Flight time. As I crossed entrance gates one by one I experienced each moment different and exciting. When I came at the ground where 3-4 Plane’s were standing I was stunt. It was my first time to see Airplane from such a close distance. With in five minutes a bus came and picked up all passengers towards Sri Lankan Airplane. I walked on the ladder steps and again at the entrance there was a security guard who checked all passengers then five steps ahead a beautiful Sri Lankan Air hostess who welcomed us with a Rose. I was feeling great I got a window seat. No one could understand the limit of my joy. After lot of other and safety announcements the moment came, I locked the seat and waited for the take off. I was little scared thinking how it would be at the time of take off and how it would feel when the plane would fly in the sky. Neighboring person was very cool because he has traveled many times by air and told me there is nothing to scare, do not worry. At last at 8.45 Plane took off, I was holding my both the hands on the seat tightly. Plane took off but nothing happen. It was very smooth take off. I enjoyed the speed and everything I got the window seat so could see down on the land from the glass windows. The Neighboring person told me facilities provided inside of the Airplane. With in five minutes we got the refreshment actually you can have anything you want which is available so I had Sandwiches and fruit juice. In between I used to see on land but there was no land because as soon as you leave Trivendrum, you have to cross, Indian Ocean to reach Colombo. By the time we finish the refreshment there was announcement that we would be reaching Colombo at Bandarnayake Airport with in ten minutes. Again there was announcement to tighten our seatbelt.

In Sri Lanka First Day AirPlane landed safely at the Colombo Airport. It was just 45 minutes flight. But I enjoyed it fully it was first experience in my life. Now I was suppose to get my rucksack, the person who was seating besides me he guided me and I got the rucksack. I moved to call Rotaractor Rufdi (met in Agra in “ROTASIA” meet). I was having his card with me but the problem was of Sri Lankan Rupee. I went to a money exchange counter and requested a young person for exchange of Indian Rupees, but he said at this center we do not do exchange of Indian Rupee. I was having Traveler’s cheques of Thomas Cook but for that also I need to go in the city. I was having Indian currency about 500 Rupees. I knew I could manage in Sri Lanka with that amount with the help of Rotary. So I requested the person to allow me to make a call. He agreed, I called up at Rufdi’s house but residence number was out of order and Office he was on leave. On his card he gave me his residence address too. So I enquired about that address, it was 30 Km from Airport. The person was very nice understood my difficulty, gave me 20 Sri lankan Rupee and asked me to go by bus which, would drop me in that area. I came outside of the airport many taxi drivers were asking me. But I kept quite and moved towards Bus stand. I got in to a bus and reached in the area. After searching a lot I got his house. Rotaractor Rufdi was not at home but his mother and brother welcomed me and contacted Rufdi. By the time Rufdi comes his brother served me lunch it was 12.30 Noon Indian time and Sri Lanka is half an hour fast so it was 1 p.m. Sri Lankan time. I had first time Sri Lankan food at his house. I even did not finish my lunch, Rufdi came he recognized me and greeted me happily. He enquired about the expedition and was not believing at all because he saw me almost three months before and surprisingly he said, “you are walking since then!!!!!” I explained him my program and requested him that I would need your help. My plan was to attain Rotary Club meetings and get the name and addresses of the Rotarians enroute. But Rufdi told me that no Club meets on Saturdays and Sundays. Still Rufdi got the success, one Rotarian asked us to meet at his house in the evening. I thought when Saturday and Sunday no work in Colombo so it’s better to start the journey from the next day (Sunday) itself. With the help of his father we chocked out the Sri Lanka tour program. I made some changes in my previous tour program. According to his father it was not possible to go to Mannar. North part of Sri Lanka, from that point you could see India, there is a bridge goes to India. My previous plan was to come by walk from the bridge. But that part is most dangerous it is known as the house of the terrorist (LTTE). In July 1987, the Sri Lankan government and India worked out a plan for establishing peace in Sri Lanka. The plan called for a cease-fire and created a local government council in the Tamil region. Some Tamil guerrillas agreed to the plan, but others did not. Fighting broke out again later in the year. A new cease-fire was implemented in June 1989. Sinhalese nationalists who opposed any compromises between the government and the Tamils killed many government officials and supporters of the government. In June 1990, fighting resumed between Tamil rebels and government troops. Hundreds were killed in the violence. So I planned to cover 450 Km in Sri Lanka. I decided to make a Triangle Colombo-Anuradhapura-Kandy and back to Colombo because my flight was from Colombo. I requested Rufdi to keep Traveler’s Cheques and confirm the return ticket for 27th March. Then at 4 O’clock we visited the News Paper Office but receptionist told us that Reporter does not come in the afternoon on Saturdays. Sea beach was close to the Press building so we spent our evening on the beach. Population of Colombo is approximately 616,000. It is a seaport, and largest city of Sri Lanka. It lies on the west coast of the country. Most of the island's shipping passes through its harbour. Colombo is the centre of Sri Lanka's tea, coconut, and cotton trade. Colombo is an old city, founded before the mid-1300's. Scholars believe the city was originally known as Kolamba, a native term meaning both port and leafy mango tree. The name Colombo is the European version of this term. The Portuguese, who came in 1505, were the first Europeans to control Colombo. The Dutch occupied the city from 1656 to 1796 and erected a number of buildings that still stand. Perhaps the most impressive is the Wolfendhal Church, built in 1749. Colombo is also the home of the University of Sri Lanka. According to tradition, Buddha visited the temple of Kalaniya just outside Colombo. Commonwealth of Nations leaders set up the Colombo Plan there in 1950. After spending whole evening at the sea beech knowing about Colombo, we went to meet Rotarian Bobby Senaweera he was the DRCC (District Rotaract Comity Chairman) when he came to know about my expedition and about the problem of Sri Lankan money. He gave me 500 Sri Lankan rupees and told me, “Not to worry you would not require lot of money to travel in our country. Our people are very much hospitable and our Rotary Club’s and members would help you a lot in your journey.” He wished me and I thanked him for the support. I came back with Rufdi he spent all time with me even though he took leave for doing his own work. We had dinner in a hotel and reached home at night at 12. I packed my rucksack as I decided to move the next day and slept at 1.00 Second Day Got up at 6 O’clock took bath and saw Uncle brought bread for me early morning I said I would eat it on the way. I could not do exercise so I thought of eating after exercise on the highway. I was carrying a bottle of Jam with me, as I was not aware how Sri Lankan food would be. Uncle was very enthusiastic he walked with me for around 5 Km just to show the Highway by short cut way. At last when I forced him to go back he went. Once he went back I did exercise and after sometime I had bread and Jam. Here one thing was really good all habitant area and every after few Kilometers there ware fruit stalls cum home. Every after an hour or two, I used to have something or other I didn’t had anything other than fruits. I faced language problem on the way but I never spoke to many people, as I wanted to see and judge what kind of people are in Sri Lanka. Mostly I used body language. Many people used to stare at me when I used to buy fruits without any discussion. It was 6 O’clock evening when I was 2 Km away of my first destination after Colombo. It was a small village called NITAMBUVA it was around 40 Km from Colombo. I was seating aside of the road, one person stopped looking at me and asked in English, “where I would like to go?” He was driving Hero Honda (Indian Bike) he stopped looking at my Rucksack and may be because he guessed I am an Indian. First I didn’t cared but then he got down and asked again, “Are you Indian?” I replied yes. I read his face and found him a nice person. I explained him about the expedition. He asked me “today you are coming from Colombo on foot?” I replied yes, he was shocked and got very excited. He requested me to come with him to his Shop. Even I wanted to have some one who would help me for Rotary Club member. He took me to his Shop (Electronic shop of TV, Refrigerator and all home appliances) introduced me to his brother (they were Twins) and all staff. He was so excited he asked to have snacks. He gave me so much respect that I thanked God a lot for creating such people in this world. The world is not enough of good people. His name was Mr. Chandana Upul Kumara he helped me a lot I enquired about Rotary Club but he was not aware about it. He took me to the Police station, as I visit Police Station to take stamp so that I should not be in any trouble even in India I used to do it. Some time Police themselves used to help me for food and accommodation. I enquired here too, but the Police officer was stupid. He was not good in English and was behaving rudely. I was carrying all the documents with me and I never scared of Police. After checking the documents he said, “ok, now you can stay.” I was so angry on his behavior as if I visited Police station to take permission to stay in that village. He did not help but troubled. Mr. Chandana was feeling sorry for the Police Officers behavior. I asked him if there is any temple near by where I can stay. With excitement he replied, “yes!” and took me to Buddha’s Temple. It was far inside around 5-6 Km away from the highway. We passed through forest, as the temple was in the forest, in peaceful area. He was a Buddhist and knew all monks of the temple. He explained all monks about me and requested to provide accommodation for the night. I got very good room, as the temple was build by Japanese man means funding. So it was very good temple. Chandana told me that he would come at night to pick me for dinner at his house. All Monks were young. Few of them knew broken English I took bath and changed cloths. Mr. Chandana came at around 9.30 p.m. and took me to his house. He was young with a two years kid, his wife was smart and her smile was beautiful. She prepared very good food with special dish in less time. I was really not having words to thank God. I had very good Sri Lankan food I cannot forget him and his wife. They were not from Rotary or any organization but still they trusted and did so much for me. He asked me to be ready by 6 O’clock in the morning, as he would be going early so that he can drop me on the highway. He dropped me back to the temple and it was 11.45 to sleep. Third Day I was in deep sleep when Mr. Chandana knocked the door, but second time when he knocked and shouted I got up. I requested him to give me just five minutes I changed my clothes, wore my shoe, carried the Rucksack and with in five minutes moved with him. I did not wanted to go alone because the temple was much inside and I didn’t know the route to come out from that forest. It was still dark when I reached on the highway. I did latrine little inside besides the road even brushed and washed my face on the road itself. After exercise I started walking again. I had heavy breakfast on the way. I noticed lot of trees, thousands of trees and greenery on this highway and inside, hardly some places for around 100 meters maximum you might not find trees. I had fruits and since I started from Colombo there might be hardly any place where people have not seen me. Every one used to stop their work and used to come out to see. Many people tried to ask me but in Singhalese Language, because people in Sri Lanka are not good in English. I reached Kurnegala at 7.00 p.m. but I was still on the highway. There was a medical shop, I went inside, explained him and requested to help me to call Rotaract member. After trying few numbers I got Rotaractor Lasthama he was not so good in English and it was not possible to brief him, I requested shop owner to explain him in Singhalese. He was really kind he explained him in detail and asked him to come. He came with another two members Damith and Buddhika they all welcomed and greeted me. I wanted to pay to the owner of the medical shop but he didn’t charge me. They took me to Rotaractor Niroshan’s house in their van. There I explained them in detail and told my plan in the city. We had dinner out in the hotel and stayed at Rotaractor Buddhika’s house. Slept at night at 12. Fourth Day Last night I could take enough and nice sleep. Had Sri Lankan breakfast (Hoppers with Dal, hoppers are like noodles) it was delicious. We visited a school (First school in Sri Lanka) contacted Principal, as she knew the Rotaract Members very well and when she came to know the purpose of expedition she immediately asked peon to make arrangement for the speech. Within 15 minutes we went to a big hall where 100 girls students were sitting, they were selected students, as it was not an English medium school. Vice principal introduced me to the girls and asked me to speak. Everywhere I used Swami Vivekananda’s start i.e. “my dear sisters and brothers.” Off course there were no boys students so I started with “my dear sister’s……” the speech was interactive and the students were encouraged by the talk. The same response I got in another school, “Holy Family Vidyalaya” In the evening all Rotaractors took me to the Rotary meet. There we met District Governer of Rotary District (he was from Colombo). I delivered the message and the club provided financial help. Those Rotaractors were having ego problem, I do not know on what point they were angry to Rotarian they moved out without dinner. I missed very good dinner, we had snacks only but I even thought that I might get dinner at some one’s place but there was no chance. I could not leave them and go alone for dinner in hotel. Those members were having internal clashes with them there was no planning, and understanding. Just to sleep I had to run to another Rotaractors house and slept at night at 12. Fifth Day I was supposed to go to Galgamua so I got ready but my rucksack was at Buddhika’s house, he came at 6.30 I took blessings of Niroshan’s parents by touching their feet they felt very happy for not leaving the tradition. I went to Buddhika’s house, packed my rucksack and moved. Buddhika dropped me far ahead on the highway, as I wanted to reach at Galgamua village, which was around 65 Km From Kurnegala. I thanked him and moved had fruits after regular interval. I was spending enough money on health having fruits in whole day and food at any Rotary or Rotaractor’s house or in the hotel. In the evening I noticed one person followed me for a Km on his bike driving slowly behind me. Then he enquired looking at the banner, which was on my rucksack (stating Save Earth and Plant Trees with a picture of Tree.) I explained him in detail, as I found him interesting person. His name was Disnayake he was working with the Dept. of Forest. He requested me to visit with him at his office. The office was in Galgamua itself which was still 6-7 Km. So I agreed and went with him. In the office he introduced me to Range Forest Officer Mr. Siripal. I showed them the paper cuttings and photographs. It was 6 O’clock but few staff members were still there. Everyone spent lot of time watching photographs. I requested Mr. Siripal to give few Posters to distribute in the schools. I got good posters in Singhalese Language. Then he asked me about the accommodation, I told him that I would be visiting any Rotary Club member in Galgamua and would see where I get place to sleep. He asked me, why do not you stay in our guesthouse? I was always ready to spend the night anywhere if I am getting it for free. The guesthouse was good but bathroom was very dirty. I took bath in the dirtiest bathroom ever in my expedition. 4-5 another officers were also staying in the same guesthouse. At night during dinner they wanted me to drink but I denied. They were singing songs in Singhalese Language, they even asked me to sing Hindi song. I sung a song for them and explained the meaning. I was tired and wanted to go to sleep. Later I felt boring and was not possible at all to seat there. Still I spent almost half night with them and took leave to sleep. It was first time in the whole expedition Govt. people helped me a lot other than Police. Sixth Day Nice stay it was with the govt. officers I thanked all of them and moved ahead towards Anuradhapura. Here if you want to have breakfast it costs at least 50 rupees. I used to have breakfast in the hotel and whole day during walk fruits. I was taking lot of precautions on the part of water. Either I used to buy or used to ask for boil water. Today a very funny thing happened. At a small stall I requested a person to give me boil water. I gave him my water bottle he pored the water in it and kept in front of the fire. It was just two minutes that I was talking to other person. When I saw my bottle, it got shrunk. I was angry but at the same time laughed on that poor fellow. I do not know whether he didn’t understand or ………… god knows. That day last ten Km my legs were paining a lot because it was third consecutive day of walk. Actually in Sri Lanka I never felt boring because the whole area was habitant I used to get houses and people hardly for a Km or two empty places or inhabitant place. People used to encourage me a lot. I got one Rotarians phone number from Buddhika so I called up but he could not help me much other than providing meeting address. My luck was good that it was meeting day. I reached at the venue at 7.30 p.m. it was a hotel I enquired about Rotary meeting and 8-10 Rotary members were there. They welcomed me and asked, I explained them and requested for accommodation. Everyone greeted and wished me one of them took me for Dinner and dropped me at Rotarian D. W. R. Gunasekera’s house, he was in the meeting and told that he would accommodate me in his house. First night there was not much talk, I got a good room and I slept early at 10.00 p.m. Seventh Day I got to see the lavishness and living standard of Sri Lankan people. Morning when I entered bathroom saw a bathtub. It was very expensive and imported one. I was really surprised and found that living standard of Sri Lankan’s was very high, even in the villages. After bath I had a very nice Sri Lankan breakfast hoppers with dal and fruits. Uncle and Aunty both were very kind and treated me as their son. I washed few clothes today and moved to visit schools. Uncle gave me few names and addresses of Schools and News Paper Office. I got a bicycle of his daughter, as she was married but Uncle used to go on drive sometimes. First I visited St. Joseph High School when I contacted Principal, he started arguing with me on LTTE part, “Said you Indians have created lot of problems in Sri Lanka and now what you want.” I kept cool and tried to convince him but he was not ready to listen. Later I visited almost five schools but really disappointment not even a single school allowed me to talk. All school Principal asked me to get a letter from Education Dept. Even after showing Photographs, News Paper cuttings and Passport. (Uncle suggested me to keep Passport, as there were lot of check posts and School principal might ask.) Actually because of LTTE problem no one wanted to take risk, as Anuradhapura onwards foreigners are not allowed to go. It was all restricted area. I tried to get help from the Education Officer but because of election everyone was busy. (I was very angry on politicians, for the promotional activity these politicians used lot of polythene or plastic like in whole city there were banners and flags in plastic indicating sign of the particular party. Even govt. use lot of polythene while road construction or renovation to indicate that work is in progress and those plastic strips goes on for kilometers.) The Forest office was next to Education Dept. I contacted forest officer and requested to give a letter, but he replied not possible, but he gave me few posters. I came back after lot of traveling explained the whole story to Uncle and Aunty they felt sorry for their people for disappointing me. I had lunch and visited few historic places like Shri Mahabodhi, Surumuni, Twin Pond and Samadhi Statue. Here I heard a story of Royal decree of King Kirthi Nissanka Malla of Polonnaruwa (2nd Century AD) Stone inscription at Ruwanveli Dagaba, Anuradhapura. "...... ordering by beat of drum that no animals should be killed within a radius of seven gau from the city (Anuradhapura) the King gave security to animals. He gave security also to the fish in the twelve great tanks and bestowing on Kambodin-gold and cloth and whatever other kind of wealth they wished, he commanded them not to catch birds and so gave security to birds." On the way back at a check post Police checked my Bag, File, I-card and Passport. They were very strict to me but later when they saw my file they asked me more about my expedition. After coming back Uncle asked me to get ready for dinner at Rotarian Gunatilaka’s house, actually when Rotarian Gunatilaka told at his house about me his wife was wanted to see and meet me. Uncle told me that there is special invitation for me from Aunty. We all reached to Rotarian Gunatilaka’s house Aunty welcomed me, she got so happy to see me she shook hands and showed her excitement. It was unbelievable welcome and response from whole family. She prepared lot of special dishes for me. I had really delicious dishes of Sri Lanka and at the end fruit juice and Ice cream. Before leaving Rotarian Gunatilaka asked me the next destination. I told him that I would go to Kekirawa the next day. He told there is no Rotary Club but then he contacted Mrs. Koswatta one of his friend, she lives in Kekirawa, explained her and told to make necessary arrangements for me. He gave me her Phone number and address. I thanked all and came back with Gunasekera Uncle and Aunty. I was suppose to move the next day, so I packed my rucksack and slept at 11.30 p.m. Eighth Day I was enjoying Sri Lankan breakfast everywhere Uncle and Aunty took lot of care at their house. I moved ahead towards Kekirawa after thanking all. Uncle suggested me to go by short cut, which would come around 45 Km. I walked whole day had fruits on the way and got the same response from local people. I reached Kekirawa at 7.15 p.m. and went to Mrs. Koswatta’s house after calling her. She, her daughter and three cousins welcomed me. My room was ready. Aunty was so nice and she trusted on me even though there were four young girls at home. (I am sure in India no one would keep me if any one has so many girls in anyone’s house) Their names were Apsara, Poornima, Ramya and Umali. Within no time I became their friend and spent time with the girls because there was no male in their house. Had nice dinner and slept at 10.45 p.m. Ninth Day It was almost a week since I left Colombo and today I would reach Matale. Aunty asked her cook to prepare food, which she packed for me and after breakfast she dropped me at Dambulla before that I said goodbye to all girl friends. Dambulla was 18 Km from Kekirawa, as she was going to buy vegetables and even Matale was around 70 Km that was not possible to cover only by walk. Aunty dropped me at Dambulla I thanked her and started walk. As usual I spent whole day in the same way meeting nice people, having fruits and watching beautiful scenes. Enroute in a forest (little away from the road) I saw domesticated elephants at work, moving huge trees. I was really happy and my curiousity increased to see them and know little about the work done by the elephants. “One elephant can drag five tons at a time,” I was told. “He’s a grand workman, never tires. Never strikes for more pay. So long as he gets his two meals a day, he’s quite happy.” Suddenly in the evening rain started so I called up Rotaractor Mahendran (Ref-Rotaractor Buddhika from Kurnegala) he came to the place and picked me Matale was still 4-5 Km and it was around 6 O’clock. There was no need to explain him, as he was already aware about my expedition. He took me to his house where everyone welcomed me. He kept my rucksack in his room. Spent some time with him chatting, had dinner and slept at 10.00 Tenth Day In the morning during breakfast I saw Mahatma Gandhi’s Photo at his house. I was shocked and asked how come? He told me that they were originally from India and his brother stood for election, from all India community party. He also told me that all Tamils are Indian origin. Mahendran took me to Cambridge International School. First English school in Sri Lanka that I visited. Actually in 1956 S. W. R. D. Bandaranaike became Prime Minister and his government passed a law that made Sinhala the country's only official language. The Tamils resented this action, and clashes broke out between Tamils and Sinhalese. Compromises were made to provide for the use of Tamil in many areas. Bandaranaike was assassinated by a Sinhalese extremist in 1959. His widow, Sirimavo Bandaranaike, became Prime Minister in 1960. She was the world's first woman prime minister. Her party lost control of Parliament in 1965, and Dudley Senanayake then became Prime Minister. But Sirimavo Bandaranaike regained the office in 1970. In 1972, the country changed its name from Ceylon to Sri Lanka, which means Resplendent Land. The chief issue in Sri Lanka today is the relationship between the Sinhalese and the Tamils. The Sinhalese have controlled the country's government since independence. Tamils believe that their opportunities for education and jobs have been limited by Sinhalese-dominated governments. In 1983, violence broke out between Tamil guerrillas and Sinhalese government troops in the north. Thousands of people were killed and more than 100,000 Tamils fled to India. So you do not get many English madium schools in Sri Lanka but now people understood the value of English languge. So I had a very nice talk with around 150 students. It was one of the Rotary Club Member’s school so we got the permission, otherwise all schools were having sports meet and there was no possibility. Mahendran could not spent much time with me and left at his shop after dropping me at home. I spent time watching Cricket match on TV, his sister gave me lunch and took lot of care. The family used to have non-vegetarian food but especially for me they prepared vegetarian food. After lunch I slept for some time in the afternoon. In the evening Mahendran came and asked me to get ready, as one of the Interactor (It’s again part of Rotary but the members are below 15 years and known as Interactor) has invited for Dinner, who was in Cambridge School. He was very much encouraged by talk and said he would like to do the same. His mother was at home, she welcomed and praised a lot. We had dinner and came back. Elleventh Day I was having nice time with people in Sri Lanka. Today we visited another School Royal English School and delivered the speech. Mahendran took me in a very big hotel where there was a special Rotary meeting. The meeting was for Indian Rotary Club members. There were around 8-10 Rotarians from Calcutta. I met them and when they came to know about me they were very happy to see an Indian doing such a great work, they felt proud on me. We had lunch and after the meeting we sung National anthem of India as well as Sri Lanka. Before leaving many Rotary member gave their Visiting Cards to visit them in Calcutta. In the evening he took me to a historic place at a huge Buddha statue and after that for swimming in the river with one of his friend. It was evening time and rain started again. We went to his friends house watched a movie and came back. Had dinner at his house and slept at night at 11.00 Twelfth Day Mahendras sister was really taking lot of care, when Mahendran told her that I would be moving today so she prepared Parotha’s for me I had very good and heavy breakfast. Kandy was the next destination, which was just 22 Km but all hills. I thanked everyone and Mahendran dropped me on the highway. He spoke to Rotaractor Mark and told him about me. He gave me Mark’s phone number and address I thanked him and moved at 8.30. I reached at 2.00 p.m. because of two days rest I felt fresh to walk and covered the distance very fast. I contacted Mark after reaching but he was not there, his father was on line. After explaining him he asked me to come to the office. It was a construction site and his company name was Stephan Construction site. He welcomed me and provided snacks and fruits. By 4 O’clock Mark also came and greeted me. He was a very nice person within five minutes he started behaving as if he knows me since long time. We washed his car at the site and then we went to his house where he was staying with his wife. He was of 21 yrs and his wife was of 20 yrs old. It was a love marriage and she was expecting baby. (She was pregnant) He told me that I would be staying here. I really got a shock, his wife just 20 yrs and he asked me to stay at his house. It was just unbelievable even it’s not that someone else also stays in the house his mother or brother or anybody. More over he told me that he was going out and would be coming in half an hour. Not only that he asked me to take bath and get ready. I was getting shock over shock, you won’t see a person like him trusted and believed on me. In India or anywhere you won’t get to see. His house was not even in the building his house was at the lonely place on the mountain. I thanked god and prayed for a very good and peaceful life with full of love. I took bath and spent chatting with his wife. Her name was Tarangini, she was beautiful too beautiful and very nice girl. After half an hour Mark came and took me to Rotary and Inner wheel meetings. This Club was highly enthusiastic, supported me with Rs. 2500 and Rs 500 from Inner wheel (It’s a part of Rotary Club but run by only female’s) Kandy is known to be Bombay of Sri Lanka. It is a tourist beautiful city. At night after Dinner Mark, his wife and me we went on the top of the hill same mountain. There was a huge Buddha’s white colored statue that can be seen from anywhere from the city. At night you get very good view of whole Kandy town. Kandy is surrounded with the hills. Slept at night at 12.30 Thirteenth Day The next day, I delivered speech in three Schools, Girls High School, Mahamaya High School and Dharmaraja High School. Everywhere I got very good response and was successful speech. Mark was with me we came back at Noon, had lunch and took rest for some time. I went alone to see Temple of Tooth Relic. It is one of the historic places in Kandy. Construction was going on because of last year’s bomb blast by terrorist in the temple. In the evening we all three moved in the city. Mark introduced me to another Rotaractor and we all went to a shopping complex where, Mark and Tarangini did shopping. Mark took a movie cassette “The Rock” spent some time roaming around the city and came back. After dinner we enjoyed movie and again at night Mark went to drop his friend at 11.30 leaving his wife alone. I slept in the same room where we were watching movie. Fifteenth Day After spending almost two days in Kandy I would go to Kegalle today. Tarangini prepared breakfast for me even after denying a lot. I had breakfast thanked both of them and moved towards Kegalle, which was just 38 Km. I never met such a good loving couple. Today on the way while walking suddenly a car stopped and the driver asked me if I would like to hitchhike. I thanked and denied but the person again stopped and he himself introduced me that he was a Rotary Member and met me in Kandy Rotary meet. I said sorry for not recognizing. He was very happy to see that I was walking. He wished me and left. It was very hot but still I covered the distance by 5 O’clock. I always had a very nice walk after one or two day rest. Reached at Central Photo Studio, where one of the Rotary members was informed by Kandy Rotarian He welcomed me and provided snacks and fruits to eat. By the time Rotary Club President Rotarian Adikari M. Tennakoon came and took me to his house, where Aunty welcomed me and offered fruit juice. There was Rotary meet also Rotarian Adikari took me for the meeting along with him. I talked a lot about expedition and told that I would like to visit few schools here. One of the Rotarian asked me to wait till Monday, as there was program for the students and 5-6 School students (Selective) would be attaining the program. I did not wanted to miss great opportunity to deliver message to 5-6 schools, as I can request them to spread message in their own schools. I agreed to spend time till Monday. After coming back I spent time with the sports personalities of his family, his son and daughter Samadhi. I played with them on their computer too. After dinner I slept at 11.30 Sixteenth Day On 19th of March I visited at the Elephant Orphanage (the only orphanage in the world for Elephants) with Uncle and his nephew, It was 8 Km from Kegalle. Uncle told me that there is entry fee (through which the organization maintains this Orphanage) for foreigners but free for Sri Lankan. They asked me to keep quite at the entrance, as there is no difference in Indian and Sri Lankan. But I might get caught because of language so I kept quite till we enter. There were lots of foreigners many with their kids. They say an elephant never forgets, but what happens when an elephant is forgotten? In Sri Lanka, they can find refuge at the Pinowlew Elephant Farm, a home for orphaned and abandoned elephants who cannot survive in the wild. People feed, groom and care for 46 elephants on the farm. The babies drink milk warmed to body temperature from super-size bottles, seven per feeding. "Maybe at first they can't find their own food. So we bring it to them here," said Idris Salley, a caretaker at the elephant farm. Outcasts like Raja, an old blind elephant who was wounded by hunters, live on the farm, as does an elephant rumored to have killed more than a dozen people. The farm supports itself in part through tourists, who come for a rare close-up view of the animals. "I have always been fascinated by them. So to come and get so close to them and to be able to touch them is a wonderful experience," I said to uncle Hard as they are to resist, adoption should be considered carefully. The cute little orphans will someday grow to several tons. And they will be demanding dinner for the next 100 years. Instead, some of the elephants go out and find jobs in circuses and zoos around the world, paying back a very special upbringing with attendance fees. The theme of wildlife conservation has been an ancient concept in Sri Lanka. It was considered noble in keeping with the teachings of Gouthama Buddha and later essential to the Island. I took many photographs and enjoyed a lot. There was a rest house on the small hill the view was different from the rest house. We had lunch at the rest house spent almost three hours and came back. It was great experience to see so many Elephants. I came back thanked everyone, as I was going to stay with Rotarian Bannayake. I carried my rucksack and moved with Kapil. This family also welcomed me with lot of respect. Mr. Ayodhya does Computer business his brother who was so nice but was having some health problem for which he went to India twice in Apollo Hospital. I hope and pray for his good health and early cure. I watched a Hindi and an English movie on Computer. Had dinner at 9.00 Uncle told me that he would be going to Kandy Open University the next day and asked if I would like to talk with the university students? I said it’s good to spend Sunday with the University students, as I was free on Sunday. Then I slept at 10.30 p.m. Seventeenth Day I moved with Uncle next day after breakfast towards Kandy. I vomited in the bus because of stomach upset even though the journey was just an hour. Uncle left for university and asked me to come after an hour after visiting Temple of Tooth Relic. I spent some time in the temple and in the city then went to the Kandy Open University by bus. First Uncle called some student leaders of the university. I explained them little about the talk, which they found interesting and gathered 40-50 students in a class. It was first time in the expedition I delivered speech to the University students. It was nice and interactive but most of the questions were about the expedition. I spent lot of time with the students. Here I would like to tell you a story of a girl, who said that she wants to join me as she fell in love with me. I replied her that walking along with a girl that too without peparation and planning, is just impossible. Anybody can not stand and join the walk. Regarding love I replied, yes we can be best friends. I met lots of girls on the way, were in love with me but I concentrated In the evening we came back to Kegalle it was raining heavily. After coming back we came to know that one of the Rotary Member has invited us for dinner. He himself came to pick up in his car, we had delicious dishes at his house he was having two daughters Madhu and Nimisha of 9 and 11 years old respectively. Uncle bought Roti’s for me from an Indian hotel I had first time in Sri Lanka. After dinner we came back. At home Uncle introduced me to his daughter Tyohari, I saw her many times but she was shying a lot so I never spoke to her. Eighteenth Day Ayodhya and Tyohari gifted me a T-shirt I was having a WWF Telephone diary that I gifted them. Later on Tyohari became so close friend that even she used to seat with me and Chat on expedition experience. Neighboring people used to ask about me all family members used to introduce me proudly that some one from India staying with them and have come on foot. These people made me very big person and respected a lot. I thanked and said goodbye to all. They all gave me so much love and affection, even they were unhappy to say goodbye. I carried my rucksack and moved with Uncle to the St. Joseph Girls High School where the seminar was arranged. There were around 500 School Students from five schools in the Auditorium. We went inside the auditorium. We got a seat on the dais. Students were looking at me, as I wore WWF T-shirt and having Posters and Stickers with me. There was another program also but first there was my speech. Uncle introduced me rather praised a lot and asked to talk to the students. As I got up students started clapping, so you can imagine how much Uncle praised and talked about me. The students were charged just by introduction. I started the speech and I could see the excitement and motivation in the students’ eyes. I requested them to make group of students, visit each class of their own school and spread the message all over Kegalle Schools. I presented few Banners, which were in Singhalese Language and WWF stickers for five schools. The speech was so good and impressive even I liked it very much. Uncle presented me a Rotary Club Flag there. When I said goodbye to all the students their smile and eyes were wishing me best luck. They were very excited and happy to meet me for the autograph. But then Uncle announced that I am getting late, as I wanted to move ahead. I came out of the school, (my rucksack was in one of the Rotarians car) took my rucksack and moved towards Nittambuwa (If you remember first night that I spent after Colombo, it was the same place, now the last destination before Colombo). I walked on the highway with the sweet memories of Uncle Bannayke’s house. It seemed to be raining but didn’t rain. So weather was good for walking and 2-3 days rest made me fresh to walk fast. In the evening at 7 O’clock I reached at Mr. Chandana’s shop, he welcomed and took me at the same temple. The monks also welcomed and got the same room. Today I spent very much time with the monks. Mr. Chandan brought hoppers from his house for me at the temple. It was still 11.30 to sleep. Nineteenth Day I got ready to move because it was already late to start but the monks forced me to have breakfast. (hoppers) I thanked them Mr. Chandana picked me and took me to his house here also his wife forced me to eat fruits. At last I thanked her and prayed for their good and healthy life. I came on the highway with Mr. Chandana & started walk. On the way I saw a school where the students were cleaning the campus but they were burning the leaves which is harmful for the nature. I thought of educating them at least on that part. I entered in to the school gate all students stopped their work and stood staring at me. I saw one teacher went to her and explained her about the expedition and purpose. I requested her just to gather these students hardly around 60-70 so that I can explain them what they can do with the leaves instead of burning it. But he didn’t allowed reason, Principal was not in the school. I tried a lot to make him understand how important it is to talk to them even for two minutes. At last when I realized that I wouldn’t get permission I requested him to explain the students and ask not to burn leaves, make compost pit instead. I moved ahead having fruits and enjoying with many people. At one place I met an interesting and friendly person where I asked for water. It was his shop he asked me to seat and offered me biscuits. He asked me many questions on expedition he took lot of photographs and gifted a pen. I denied and said I do not need any kind of gift but he forced me to keep. He showed me his wife and daughter’s photographs and was wanted me to spend night at his house cum shop. But I was getting late to reach Rufdi’s house, as I was few Km away from Colombo. I was not believing that I had come back after covering around 500 Km in fifteen days and came back. I called up Rotaractor Rufdi and asked about accommodation whether at his house or at any other place. He asked me to go to his house. I moved to his house but Uncle was not at home. After ten minutes Uncle came and greeted me we spent lot of time, sharing about the experience of last 15 days in Sri Lanka. Today I had a very different food, Roti and Chapati in the dinner. Rufdi was very busy so I could see him only at 10.30 and slept at 11 without spending much time with him. Twentieth Day Rufdi left early morning for work. Uncle helped me a lot he gave me few school name and addresses. When I visited two schools I came to know that all schools in Colombo were having exams so I could not visit and deliver my message to any school in Colombo. I came back and waited for Uncle. After spending some time Uncle and me went to Air Lanka office. But the flights were booked till 27th. Uncle met his friend who suggested us to go to Indian Airlines office. We visited Indian Airlines office and here also got a problem the ticket was nontransferable. We visited back to Air Lanka Office, I explained the PRO to help me. First Uncle spoke to the PRO in Singhalese and explained her about the expedition when she saw my file, she realized she spoke to her boss and asked him to do something. I was wanted to move on 26th it was full but 25th there was a vacancy. I booked that ticket and reconfirmed. The flight was at 7.40 p.m. on 25th March. If uncle would not have come with me, it was really very difficult to get seat on 25th Flight. He spent lot of time for me even he could not do his own work for helping me. While returning back Uncle took me to the Press where the Reporter asked me to give a readymade article to him that I was not having. It was 3 p.m. we came back and had lunch with the very different fruits, which I never had. In the evening Rufdi and I visited Rotary Club meet and got support of Rs 1300. Rotarian Shabin was very much impressed with me he invited us for dinner. After meeting we went to his house where he introduced me to his family members enjoyed a lot had very good dinner and came back at 10.30. I called up Rotaractor Hetal Shah and informed him after explaining and referring to Agra meet. He remembered and replied do not worry we would pick you up from the Airport. I told him the Flight timings I was happy that Hetal responded me. Twenty-first Day It was 25th of March 1999 and my last day in Sri Lanka. I wrote Thank you letters to all the Rotary and Rotaract Clubs who helped me here in Sri Lanka. Rufdi returned me the Travelers cheques, which last time kept with him, as a part of safety. After lunch I packed my rucksack thanked all took blessings of Uncle and Aunty, Rufdi dropped me at the Bus stand at 4 O’clock, as Airport was far from his house. I reached Bandarnayake Airport. The same one, I contacted the person who supported me with 20 rupees on my arrival. I returned him the money and exchanged Sri Lankan currency in US$ it was 50 US$. I was again excited to enjoy different experience that was flying at night and flying in the sky for more than an hour, as flight would take approximately one hour and ten minutes to reach Chennai (Madras). That time I was behaving as if I traveled many times by air. What nervousness I was having at the first time was not at that time. I knew what to be done and how? I met few Sri Lankan boys studying in Bangalore they purchase many Cigar boxes of 555 brands from the custom shop. I enquired them what they would be doing with so many Boxes? One of them replied, “we would be selling it in India”, he told me how much they could earn because from the custom shop they get it very cheap. They can earn almost the amount equals to the airfare, which means their traveling was free. Not only these boys, later I found many people buying something or other in more quantity. After completing all formalities I entered in an Airplane. Again the same announcements and same refreshment but the difference was beauty. That time I didn’t get window seat. But still I used to see sometimes. About Sri Lanka Sri Lanka is a beautiful island country in the Indian Ocean. It lies about 32 kilometres off the southeast coast of India. Its official name is the Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka. The country was formerly called Ceylon. The island of Sri Lanka was called Ceylon until 1972. The earliest inhabitants of the island were tribal peoples called the Yaksa and the Naga. The Veddahs are descendants of these peoples. Vijaya, a legendary prince from northern India, is said to have led the founders of the Sinhalese culture to Ceylon. The Sinhalese probably began to arrive during the 400's B.C. They settled in the northern part of the island and built advanced irrigation systems to support agriculture. The city of Anuradhapura was the centre of Sinhalese civilization from the 200's B.C. until A.D. 993. Tamils from southern India invaded the island, perhaps as early as the 100's B.C. From the A.D. 400's until the arrival of the Portuguese in the 1500's, the history of Ceylon centred on struggles between Sinhalese kings and Tamil kings. Tamils eventually gained control of the northern half of the island. The Sinhalese moved into the southern half of the island. Arab traders, whose descendants are the Moors, began arriving in the 700's. European control of Ceylon began in the 1500's. The Portuguese sailed into what is now Colombo Harbour in 1505. They gradually gained control of the island's major coastal areas. The Dutch replaced the Portuguese in the mid-1600's. The British captured the Dutch territories in 1795 and 1796. They made Ceylon a crown colony in 1802. They took over the Sinhalese Mountain kingdom of Kandy in 1815, and became the first Europeans to control the entire island. The colony gradually gained self-government during the 1900's. It became the independent nation of Ceylon on Feb. 4, 1948. The country adopted a parliamentary form of government headed by a Prime Minister. D. S. Senanayake became the first Prime Minister. Srilankan flag talk about Sri Lankan culture; a yellow lion on a crimson field is a symbol of precolonial Sri Lanka. Ornaments in the corners are bo leaves, which are Buddhist symbols. On the left, a vertical green stripe stands for the Moors and an orange stripe for the Tamils. The currency of Sri Lanka is Rupee (1US$ = 72). Sri Lanka has a population of about 19 Million. The people belong to several different ethnic groups. The largest groups are the Sinhalese and the Tamils. The Sinhalese make up about 74 per cent of the population. They are descended from people from northern India. Their language is called Sinhala, and most of them are Buddhists. Tamils account for about 18 per cent of the population. They are descendants of people from southern India. The Tamils speak Tamil, and most of them are Hindus. Most of the Tamils live in the northern and eastern parts of the country. Both Sinhala and Tamil are official languages of Sri Lanka. Moors, who are descendants of Arabs, form Sri Lanka's third largest ethnic group. They make up about 7 per cent of the population. Most Moors speak Tamil and are Muslims. Smaller ethnic groups in Sri Lanka include Burghers, Malays, and Veddahs. The Burghers are descendants of European settlers who intermarried with Sri Lankans. The Malays are descended from people who came from what is now Malaysia. The Veddahs are descendants of Sri Lanka's first known residents. About 80 per cent of the Sri Lankan people live in rural areas, and about 20 per cent live in urban areas. Most of the people farm the land and follow the traditions of their ancestors. Colombo is Sri Lanka's largest city by far. Houses that have mud walls and thatched roofs are common among the poorer rural people. The middle class and wealthy have more substantial housing. In both rural and urban areas, many middle- and upper-class houses are surrounded by a walled compound. Many Sri Lankans, especially rural people, live in extended families, in which more than two generations of the same family live together. The caste system, which divides people into social classes, is strong among both Sinhalese and Tamils. Most rural Sri Lankan men wear a sarong (a garment wrapped around the waist to form a long skirt) and a shirt. Many urban men wear Western-style clothing. Sri Lankan women wear a redde (skirt similar to a sarong), with a blouse or jacket; or a sari (straight piece of cloth draped around the body as a long dress). Rice is the chief food in the Sri Lankan diet. It is served with curry dishes--stewlike dishes of vegetables, meat, fish, or eggs seasoned with a blend of spices. Tea is a favourite drink. Sri Lankans are religious people. The countryside is dotted with Buddhist and Hindu temples and shrines, Islamic mosques, and Christian churches. About 69 per cent of the people are Buddhists and about 15 per cent are Hindus. Christians and Muslims each account for about 8 per cent of the population. Education in Sri Lanka is free from kindergarten through to university level. Children must attend school between the ages of 5 and 14. Sri Lanka has eight universities. About 87 per cent of all Sri Lankans 15 years of age or older can read and write. This rate ranks as one of the highest among Asian nations. Architecture, painting and sculpture, literature, music, theatre, and dance flourished in Sri Lanka before the period of European rule. Much of the island's ancient art focused on religious themes, such as the many large Buddha images. Remains of this art can still be seen in ruins of some cities and in museums in Colombo and Kandy. Today, dance is an important art form among both Sinhalese and Tamils. Sri Lanka craftworkers make jewellery and pottery, weave baskets and mats, and carve masks and other objects from wood. Climatic condition in Sri Lanka, temperatures in the low coastal areas average 27 °C. Temperatures in the mountains average 16 °C. Average annual rainfall ranges from about 130 centimetres in the northeast to about 510 centimetres in parts of the southwest. Despite its relatively small size, Sri Lanka possesses a high level of bioddiversity. A nortworthy feature of Sri Lanka's biodiversity is the remarkable high proportion of endemic species among its flora and fauna: 23% of the flowering plants and 16% of the mammals in the island are endemic. Sri Lanka has a wide range of topographic and climatic variation and this contributes to the special features of its biodiversity. Sri Lanka has been identified by the environment activist group Conservation International (CI) as one of 25 biodiversity hot spots in the world The southern half of the island is dominated by beautiful and rugged hill country. The entire northern half comprises a large plain extending from the edge of the hill country to the Jaffna peninsula. The highest mountain is the 2524m Mt Pidurutalagala near Nuwara Eliya and the longest river is the Mahaweli which courses from the centre and empties into the Indian Ocean at Trincomalee. The best beaches are on the south-western, southern and south-eastern coasts. Large evergreen trees and spectacular orchids are found in the dense south-western tropical rain forests. Hardy grasslands, rhododendrons and stunted forests predominate in the cool, damp highlands, and shrubs and grasslands survive in arid zones in the north. Animal life is profuse and includes the ubiquitous elephant, as well as leopards, deer, monkeys, sloth bears, wild boar, cobras, crocodiles, dugong and turtles. The island is an important seasonal home to migrating birds, including flamingoes, who flock to the lagoons, wetlands and bird sanctuaries for respite from the northern winter. The best time to see birds is between January and April. It is said By The Mahavamsa (The Great Chronicle of Sri Lanka) Historically the world's first sanctuary for wildlife was established in Sri Lanka Twenty-five centuries ago, Mahinda a Buddhist monk and son of Emperor Asoka of India told the King of Ceylon: "O Great King, the birds of the air and the beasts have an equal right to live and move about in any part of the island as thou. The land belongs to the people and all other beings; thou art only the guardian of it." Acting on these words, King Devanampiyatissa established the world's first wildlife sanctuary.

BACK IN INDIA At 8.30 Indian Time, I reached at the Chennai Airport. I got my rucksack and searched for Rotaractor Hetal. I was worried that how will I recognize him because I met so many members in Agra who gave me their Visiting Cards. I really forgot his face. But suddenly just after coming out of the main gate I saw two young boys came to me and even I guessed that one of them would be Hetal. Hetal recognized me and introduced to other Rotaract member, Rotaractor Raj. Both they have come in a car. They asked me to come along with them. First they took me at Raj’s house where Raj and Hetal proudly introduced me to his family members. I had snacks at his house and moved to Rotaractor Ritesh’s place where many Rotaract members gather at night. After spending good time with 8-10 Rotaractors talking about experiences of the Expedition, Hetal took me to his house, Uncle, Aunty and his brother welcomed me. I stayed in Hetal’s room it was 1 a.m. to sleep. Hetal was having computer at his house I told him by the time he comes back from the College I would write Press Note to give it to the News Paper Offices. Aunty took lot of care she provided breakfast even forced me to put all the dirty clothes for washing. Hetal came back in the afternoon we had lunch, I was missing Indian food more over rotis. After long-long time I got to eat good rotis (I had once in Sri Lanka but you won’t get the test of India) In the evening we visited News Paper Office of Indian Express and Din Mini. (Local Tamil News Paper) The lady took my interview and Photo by the photographer. She told us, it would come on 27th or 28th. Later we visited Rotary Club of Maylapore where I got financial support. After the meeting, Hetal, Raj and myself went to Marina Beach enjoyed the city as well as beach a lot. We didn’t have dinner because we had snacks at many places and we were full. Late night we came back home. The most obvious feature of Chennai is Marina beach. It runs from the harbour in the north to San Thome cathedral in the south. The beach stretches for about 13 kilometres, and is claimed to be the second-longest beach in the world. Elliot's beach is a continuation of Marina beach. It lies on the far side of the Adyar River which flows through the southern half of the city. I packed my rucksack, as I would move out of Chennai the next day and slept at night at 12.30. On 27th March, after thanking Hetal’s family, I moved ahead early morning. Till 10.30 I was not feeling hot but later I experienced tremendous heat the climate was very hot not like Sri Lanka. In the afternoon blood came out from the nose first time I faced such a heat and may be because of climate change I got the blooding. I took rest at a Dhaba (highway Hotel) had lunch and moved ahead, I was taking lot of precautions waiting at many places and washing face with the water. There were many villages on the way but I decided to go to Nellore (166 Km) so I hitchhiked and at night at 9 O’clock I reached Nellore. I had address and phone number of Rotaractor K Johnson. I called him but he was not there but still I told his brother that I am coming to his house, see if he can find any Rotaract member. Rotaractor Sujeet welcomed me out side of Rotaractor Johnson’s house. He took me to a Rotary member who arranged accommodation in a lodge. Rotaractor Sujeet dropped me at the lodge and left. I had dinner in the hotel and slept at night at 12. I moved towards Vijaywada, which was just 30 Km from Guntur where I spent a night after Nellore. I found in Andhra Pradesh very few people were helping natured but mostly not. On the way I used to ask for the price for fruits, looking at my rucksack they used to coat more than what they coat for others. I had to buy whatever rate they coat cause when I demand for concession they normally did not considered. People used to look at me with big eyes while walking but when helping part comes sometimes they do not come forward to help. Vijaywada is situated at the bank of Krishna River there is a long bridge of around a kilometer, which has to cross before entering in to the city. Month of March means summer but still the river was having enough of water. Many people seat there on the bridge for fishing for the day’s food. There were lots of fishermen you get to see from the bridge. It was evening time and was beautiful to see around the Vijaywada. Here Rotaractor Arun Saboo (Reference- met me in Agra and gave his card) helped me. The next stoppage was Eluru Rotaractor Arun gave me a letter to get help from a lady Rotary member (Rotary ann). It was my consecutive fourth day of walk Eluru was just 60 Km and I was traveling in such a hot condition. Theressas College where Ms. Iris Sylwester (A Rotray Club Member) was lecturer, She spoke to the Vice Principal for my accommodation in the guesthouse and opportunity to speak with the girls, as there was a girls hostel in the same campus. Vice Principal was very nice and kind she allowed for both. It was around 7 O’clock, I took bath and delivered the speech to around 100 girls students. But after the speech Principal an old lady objected that how a young person can stay in the girls hostel. She refused to stay. Ms. Iris said not to worry and took me to Rotary Club meet. She introduced me to all the members, I got the opportunity to speak and at the end Rotary president said, that the club would sponsor the stay in Eluru. He arranged accommodation in a three-star hotel, Hotel Surya. It was 31st March I moved towards Rajmundry. (80-90 Km) On the way at a place few young men were standing near a tea stall. They stopped and enquired what I have and where am I going? I thought they are asking in good manner, but suddenly one man opened my west pouch and took out my camera. I requested them to leave me but the stupid man wasted 2-3 photos just by clicking, others were laughing at last I just requested the tea stall fellow to tell them to leave me. He was a young and healthy man, he knew all those men, he shouted and gave my camera back. He asked me if I would like to have tea. I thanked him but denied and moved as soon as possible away from those bad people. Here also before entering Rajmundry town you have to cross the River Godavari and the bridge was as long as around 5 kilometer. You get to see the same scenario here too. Fishermen, poor people catch the fish for their day’s food etc. In the evening I reached Rajmundry, luckily it was the meeting day of Rotary. One thing was good that since Vijaywada everyday wherever I have gone I got the Rotary Club Meetings to attained. The club helped me for the accommodation in a lodge. Rotarian V. S. S. Mallapa Raju was kind to help me here. I spent almost two hours at his house with his son Karthik, daughter Sravya, their cousins Vinay and Aparna. They all loved me so much they got crazy when they came to know that I am walking. All were very sweet and loving children. I took photographs and even they took mine. Sravya was in 5th standard and she was very enthusiastic she brought an Autograph Book and asked for autograph. I was really in love with all. Last night I had very good sleep but got ready to move the next destination, Tuni, a small town. It was around 80-90 Km. In India I did not find the fruit stalls every after regular interval as in Sri Lanka. For kilometers you do not get anything on the highway. Even if you get to see any hotel you won’t get fruits there. Not only that it is very difficult to find a tree on the highway to take some rest. Today I got totally a different experience. I was seating under the tree because of hot condition I was sweating and my T-shirt got wet. Two men came on the scooter, parked in front of me and went inside. There were lots of trees I thought they might have gone for toilet. But after coming back one of them asked me how many boys are you? Arrogantly. I could see his eyes were in search of something. I replied coolly that I am alone. He did not believed at all and said where is your partner? When he was asking arrogantly, I asked him who are you and why should I answer your questions? When he found that I am not scared, he told me that he was a Police and in this area there are lots of prostitutes. I showed him my photographs and explained him about my expedition. He satisfied himself and left. After sometime a smart young girl of around 17-18 years of age approached to me and asked me to come. Now I believed on that Policeman, he was right. She was very good in Hindi. I spoke to her and told her how much she earns by doing prostitution and what will happen after few years once she becomes old. I told her about aids. She listens to me took out a condom and showed it to me when I told about aids. By showing that condom she again asked me to come and said 50 rupees only. I gave her 50 rupees told her it’s bad don’t do it better work and enjoy the life. I moved without getting into any trouble. I met many prostitutes on this highway. Mostly truck drivers are the customers of these prostitutes. Few places I have seen trucks are parked aside of the road. Means the driver was spending time with the Prostitutes. I was really serious that how these people do not think about aids. I faced tremendous heat everyday between 12 to 4 p.m. so somehow I hitchhiked and reached Tuni at 7 O’clock. When I reached in the market I Called up Rotarian D.V.B.S.R. Sarma (Ref- by Rotarian Raju from Rajmundri). First he took me in a hotel and offered me snacks. I showed him the letter and requested him for the accommodation. He was very excited and happy, praised me and my work. First his plan was to put me in a big and the best hotel in Tuni but it was full so he asked me if I have any problem staying with him at his house. I always preferred and enjoyed staying with the Rotarians at their house. I get love and affection from the family members, who encouraged me and gave me courage, to stay away from my own family without missing them much. Even I never wanted to waste much money of the Rotary Clubs or any member on accommodation. Because I always carry everything with me (my own bedding sleeping mat and shawl) and I never minded staying anywhere. Only problem I try to save myself away from mosquitoes. After reaching at his house I took bath and washed few clothes. Every day I used to wash my walking dress at night, which used to dry up by morning. Rotarian Sarma was running a computer Institute so after getting fresh enough he took me to his Institute. I delivered message at the institute, there were few Rotaractor members also present. I asked them to spread this message through schools in Tuni. I faced problem of itching in between both thighs many times during expedition. When I told him that I want to buy an itching cream he advised me not to wear underpants because of sweating the itching problem arises. We came back at 9 O’clock had home made dinner first time in Andhra Pradesh and spent good time chatting with Mr. Moorthy his father. Rotarian Sarma gave me two Bermuda shorts and asked me to wear these during walk. It was of cotton and was good for summer, as I faced lot of itching problem. Rotarian Sarma was a nice and kind young man with two small loving kids I played with them for long time at night. His wife was again very excited and happy she felt like doing more than what she could. All family members were in love with me. I spent some time watching Cricket where Pakistan beat India. I wore one of the shorts given by Rotarian Sarma they all blessed me for journey as I moved after breakfast. His father said, “We are really happy to accommodate you in our house we are fortunate and it was god’s wish to take care of yours. You slept without disturbing us (as I was having my own bedding and habituated to sleep on the floor) in all conditions with mosquitoes.” Rotarian Sarma dropped me on the highway. I thanked him and started walk towards Vishakhapatnam (105 Km) Today on the highway I got heartbreaking experience. There was an accident of truck and Bullock-Cart. (A small caravan carried by Bulls) The truck hit the Bullock-Cart, 2 people and 2 Bulls were injured. People were taken to the Hospital immediately but the Bulls were lying on the road since last two days in the terrific heat. One was badly hitted, tears came out of my eyes when I saw that bull. I could his pain he was crying, his three legs were completely damaged all blood was on the road. The bull was trying to get up many times but it was just impossible. He got hit on the other part of the body too. More over you can imagine since last two days Oh!! My God ……. Yes since last two days that bull was lying in such condition in tremendous heat where no human would be ready to stay in such hot condition. You could see the people what kind of heartless people were, they cared for human and sent to the hospital but what about the Bull who was suffering from extreme pain. I enquired with the people, why the bull has not taken to the hospital? They replied that doctor was informed two days before and he was expected the next day. I was sure even the people told me that they would be killing the Bull as the bull lost his three legs and was of no use. But they kept that bull alive to show the bull’s condition to the Policemen so that they could get compensation against it. I told those people that when you know you would kill the bull so why should that bull suffer, why you didn’t kill the bull the same day. I felt very bad even thinking that the bull would be suffering with the pain, may be for two more days. I prayed to relief the poor animal as soon as possible. It was very painful scene. I spent almost two hours and people were answering me because they respected me when I show them my message card (Actually it was just a message card but there was picture of a rhinoceros and people cutting horn of rhinoceros. I told them that I am from WWF and would give this to News Paper. I took Photographs of that bull.) I was angry on Police because if they had completed the procedure the bull would have been killed long back. People do not think about the animal that provides and helps them for their livelihood. I was helpless could not do anything I moved ahead with lots of sorrow. Whole day I could not eat anything as I saw the accident in the morning just 10 Km after Tuni. I hitchhiked at 4 O’clock and reached Gajuaka (Vishakhapatnam) I called up Rotarian Suresh Kumar (Ref- by Rotarian Sarma –Tuni) explained him and requested for the help. He asked me to visit nearest place at the shop of a Rotary Club member. (Gave me address) I visited the shop, where the Rotarian was already informed by Rotarian Suresh kumar. He asked his boy to drop me at the meeting venue, as there was meeting of their club. The meeting was going on I got warm welcome by all members. I got opportunity to speak in the meeting. It was pre decided that Rotarian Ch. Narayan Rao (Retd. I.A.F.) Would accommodate me at his residential school. After the meeting I went with him at his house cum residential school. He introduced me to his wife, son Ravi and a daughter. I took bath, had dinner and came to know more about the Residential School. The school runs by the Narayan Rao’s family. Ravi was of my age and was helping his father for the school matter. After long time today I would be taking rest not going to walk. During assembly I delivered the speech to the students of Surya Residential School. After the speech many students asked for autograph. It was like a film star or like a sports person all students surrounded me for the autograph. I played with the students had lunch, aunty prepared special food for me. After lunch I packed my rucksack, as we wanted to go to Vishakhapatnam city (Gajuaka was part of Vishakhapatnam but 15 Km away) for the inauguration of Paul Harris Memorial Dormitory for the Blind for the girls. I said goodbye to all and moved with Uncle. District collector was there for the inauguration, I have been facilited by the Collector and delivered the message in 3-4 mints it was short and sweet. There I got lots of claps and tremendous respect. After the function Rotary Club of Vishakapatnam accommodated me in YMCA’s dormitory. It was dirty dormitory not maintained properly. YMCA is situated exactly opposite to the sea. In the city I did not contacted any Rotary or Rotaract member because then nobody leaves me alone every time expedition talk. So I thought of spending remaining day just seating at the seashore and enjoying. I had dinner and slept early. I left the city, but I could not decide where to go because Vijaynagaram (60 Km) was little inside around 10 Km away from Highway and srikakulam was on the highway but 40 Km more. I moved out and reached on the national highway number 5 on which I was walking from Chennai. But once I reached on the highway I walked around 25 Km I was having snacks and fruits on the way. At 2.30 I met a person who asked me if I want to go to Vijaynagaram he would drop me. I said ok and reached Vijaynagaram at 3 O’clockI called up Rotaractor V. Sai Anjani Kumar who was already informed by Rotaractor Saboo of Vijaywada City. He came and picked me his mother and father welcomed me. I got fresh and moved to the News Paper Office and Cable Television both the places I gave interview and was successful visit. All these places I could not do much regarding schools because I was not able to take stoppage any where continuously walking since I left Chennai and more over those days were of examination so it was difficult to get permission. At 7.30 I saw my news in the News Program in Telugu Language. Aunty prepared good food for me for the dinner I was highly respected because I was staying with them and whole Vijaynagaram saw me on TV. The same news we saw in the morning. After breakfast Rotaractor V. Sai dropped me on the highway. I moved towards Srikakulum (50 Km) I noticed many times that the animals like cows, bulls, buffalos, horses and many others used to look at me with the curiosity. I have really a different feeling for animal. I used to imagine various stories like animals wants to ask me why am I carrying so much of weight on my back? Some times I used to imagine that animals might be laughing at me and saying, “see how much pain one get when one carries weight on back.” When animals look at my rucksack and me carefully and curiously I used to find kindness in their eyes. I used to talk with them and used to say hi!!!!! Hallo!!!!!! How are you? Why are you looking at me? and Many more questions I really used to enjoy a lot, it used to give me happiness. I love animals a lot. But I used to laugh on my stupidity some times while talking my self and imaginating the stories with the animals. In the evening I reached Srikakulum at 7 O’clock and called up Rotarian D. Gopal Rao (Ref- Rotaractor V. Sai- Vijaynagaram) but he was in the shop, I took the shop address and reached at his shop at 8 O’clock. He was in the shop so I explained him and requested to help. He was not much impressed he asked me to stay in Rotary eye hospital. It was a ten by ten room but dirtiest. It was open, unsafe and unhygienic place, with full of mosquitoes. I thought, it would be better to stay in a hotel. I moved in search of cheap lodge, one rickshaw driver took me to a cheap lodge. I was happy just because I found mosquito net in the room. It was almost 12 O’clock of night. Not having enough sleep, rest and also because of less salt or sodium in food I found my self little weak. Next day I had fruits and enough salt in lunch. I was walking towards a village called Tekkali (70 Km) I reached Tekkali in the evening at 5 O’clock with the help hitchhiking I got down where the truck was moving on the other direction. So the remaining distance of Just 2-3 Km I saw few persons playing Volleyball in the school campus. I requested and joined them. I spent around 15 minutes play and enjoyed it a lot. After that they enquired about me I told them what I do, they all shook my hand and wanted to spend me sometime with them. But it was getting dark so I moved. I called up Rotarian Prakash (Ref- Rotarian D. Gopal Rao) explained him and requested to help me. He came at the booth and picked me. When he came to know that I was walking and that too for environment, he got excited and very happy. He took me to his house and proudly introduced me to his family even on the way he was introducing me to people, as it was a small village. All family members welcomed me. I did not eat much because Rotarian Prakash bought food from outside that I did not liked. I slept at 10.30 p.m. Last night I got a very good and deep sleep. I thought of reducing some weight. I requested Rotarian Prakash to donate few clothes. Two shirts a pant and a bed sheet it was not useful for me. I reduced almost 2-3 kg weight and bought a lighter new bed sheet. Rotarian Prakash took me to Infant Jesus English Medium High School the only English Medium School in the village. It was Residential School. I delivered the speech to around 300 Students. Principal Mr. Issac N.V. was very impressed as it was related to environment he showed me the garden and offered snacks and a glass of juice. I was in a hurry to go to Icchapuram (70 Km) so I requested Rotarian Prakash to drop me on the highway. I walked again on National Highway number –5. After spending almost ten days in hot climate I got habituated. In the evening I reached at 8 O’clock in Icchapuram and visited directly at Rotarian M.N.Raman’s (Ref- Rotarian Prakash) “Sri baba Printing Press” explained him and requested to help me. He accommodated me in a lodge after dinner I slept at 10.30 I got a call in the lodge in the morning that Rotarian M. N. Raman has arranged speech in two schools. First we went to a Telugu Medium school where I had to take the help of Interpreter because of language problem. Then we went to Dnyan Bharti English Medium School, I delivered message to around 300 school students. The school principal presented me a memento (Rotarian Raman sent to my home) I thanked all, carried my rucksack and moved. It was the last village of Andhra Pradesh and I was moving towards Barhampur (Orissa) that was just 24 Km by 5.30 I covered the distance and went to Geeta Silk Palace to visit Rotarian Chandra Mouli (Ref- Rotarian Raman- Icchapuram) I explained him and requested him to help me. He asked his servant to put me in a lodge. I took bath and came back at the shop. Rotarian Chandra asked me to go for the Rotaract meeting but these Rotaractors were not much interested and helpful. When I told them that I would like to go to the News Paper office and Cable TV. Nobody responded except Rotaractor Vijay who told me that he would meet me the next day. I came back, had lunch and slept at 11.00 p.m. I watched Cricket Match India Vs Pakistan and today also Pakistan beat India. It was the second day after Chennai I got one day rest. Rotaractor Vijay came he was very much impressed and was respecting a lot, both we went for breakfast. Suddenly blooding started again from the nose during breakfast. He took me to a Doctor who was Rotary Club member. He prescribed some medicines and got tips for the precaution. He asked me not to walk in the afternoon, which was just impossible. I took rest whole day went out for lunch in a hotel. Ordered for full meal but I didn’t know it would be too much for me. I eat how much I wanted and remaining I carried and fed to a cow out of the hotel, as they served in Banana Leaf. People were watching with the curiousity and few were laughing too but they might have felt sorry when they saw me feeding cow. In the evening I moved with Rotaractor Vijay for the Rotary meet, he told me that Cable persons would be coming in the meeting for the interview and coverage. We went at the venue all Rotarians welcomed me, Cable TV persons took the interview where I delivered my message to the people of the city. I had dinner again in the same hotel but this time I asked for half plate. I enjoyed some time, watching Cricket Match played between India and England where India won by 20 Runs. Slept at 10.30 p.m. Many times I was unhappy with people’s behavior. People do not give importance to time. Actually yesterday one school principal permitted for the speech and asked us (the Rotaract members and me) to come at 7.15 in the morning. I got ready before 7 and I knew how important to go in time I thought of going alone but waited for these Rotaractor because they helped me a lot and it would have hurt them. So I waited they all came at 7.15, hurriedly we moved by auto but still we were late by 10 minutes, could not reach in time. Principal was time conscious he didn’t allow us. I was really disappointed for missing the opportunity to make almost more than 1000 students aware about the environmental problems. I always believed that number of people I talk with, few turns out the conservationist. It affects on the students. After thanking those Rotaractors I moved towards Khurda (90 Km). On the way I saw a person on bicycle we both said hello to each other, as he was very fast we could not speak but both we were looking at each other even after passing almost half kilometre. I thought he might be on expedition. In the afternoon, blood came out of the nose again. I was not able to understand what or how could I avoid this problem. I took lot of precautions and used to take rest every after half an hours walk, I used enough of drinking water, whole day. I hitch hiked in the evening and reached Khurda. I got help of Rotarian Dev to stay in the guest house of irrigation Dept. he was the chief of the irrigation Dept. of Khurda. At night two Rotaractors came to see me then I had dinner and slept. One of the Rotaractors gave me name and phone number of Rotaractor Sushri of Bhubaneshwar (25 Km). I started walk early morning and was walking fast, as I wanted to avoid afternoon walk. I had breakfast on the way and without spending much time on rest I continued walk. But from 10 O’clock onwards I experienced increase in temperature. It was tremendous hot, I took out my handkerchief wetted it and put on the face covering almost half of the face. I was having a round cap that was protecting my head and the handkerchief protected nose. I had fruits on the way and reached Bhubaneshwar at a junction at 11.30. I called up Sushri, she was already informed by a Rotaract member of Khurda. Even she already made arrangement to pick me. She asked me to wait at the same place and she would send Rotaractor Manik Sharma to pick me. Rotaractor Manik Sharma reached at the place where I was waiting for him. First he took me to his office where I changed my clothes and went for lunch. After lunch we went to the house of Rotaractor Prem. He got surprised; he recognized me and said “Oh! My God, you are still walking?” he was in Agra for the meet the day I started my walk. He greeted me with lot of excitement and called few more Rotaractors, he introduced me proudly to his family members. Rotaractor Vinod who was also there in Agra he too got shocked and praised a lot. He asked me to stay at his house. In the evening I attained their Club meeting and explained about the purpose of the expedition even I explained them that what and how they can help to save our mother earth. I had dinner at Vinod’s house and slept at night at 12. Next day I visited the News Paper Office of The Indian Express and The Asian Age. I got very good response by the Reporters of both the News Paper offices. We visited the OTV (Orissa Television) as one of the Rotary members already spoke to the reporters of OTV. We just confirmed that they would be coming at the Rotary Club meeting for interview. Rotaractor Prem spent almost whole day with me. Rotaractor Sharma wanted me to visit Rotaractor Sushri even I was interested to see her, as she also helped me. She was staying far from the city so nobody was ready to come with me but then Rotaractor Sharma took me to her house. She, her sister and her mother welcomed me spent some time at her house and came back. At 7 O’clock we went to Rotary Club meet OTV reporters were there with the Camera. I delivered the regular speech for Rotary. The Club supported me financially and presented a nice banner, which was stating my message, as my previous banners were dirty. Later OTV reporters took my interview in other room. There were around 5-6 Rotaractors we all had dinner in the hotel. I thanked all Rotaractors as I wanted to move the next day morning at the earliest towards Cuttuck. I carried my rucksack from Vinod’s place and slept at Vivek’s house. Bhubaneswar lies about 320 kilometres southwest of Calcutta on a tributary of the Mahanadi River. It has been an important settlement since the 300's B.C., and has many archaeological remains of early settlers. Formerly called Ekamrakshetra, the town flourished especially between the A.D. 400's and 900's, when it became the political centre for many Hindu dynasties and a focus for the worship of the god Shiva. Many important temples were built there until the 1400's, and at one time there may have been as many as 7,000 shrines standing near the town's sacred lake. Remains of about 500 of these temples still survive. Lingaraja Temple in Bhubaneswar, built in the 1000's, is one of the finest in Orissa. The sikhara (spire) is 40 metres high. Today, Bhubaneswar consists of the original city with about 30 ancient temples, and a planned township built since 1948. Rotaractor Vivek dropped me on the highway and gave me Rotaractor Manoj’s phone number to get help as he would call and explain him about me. I started walk at 6.30 Kuttuck was just 22 Km from Bhubhneshwar. There were many turns on the highway and turns always reduced the distance because if there was right turn I used to walk on the right side of the road and when left turn comes I used to cross the road straight by looking at the vehicle and reach to the left turn so that I never walked the whole curved of right side. And the walk used to be fast. I reached Cuttuck at 11 O’clock covered the distance in just four and half an hours. I called up Rotaractor Manoj he got a shock he was doubtful that how did I came so early. He picked me first I requested to take me to the News Paper Office “The Samaj.” I contacted Manorama Aunty (I met them in Delhi at Satya Paul Uncle’s place), as Brijbhai was not there. She asked one of the Reporters to interview and take photograph as I walked in the office with my rucksack. So after interview and photographs I thanked Aunty and went to Rotaractor Biswajit’s house for lunch. I felt very awkward at his house. We had lunch but after lunch I came to know that I would be staying at his house, I requested Rotaractor Avinash to take me to his house, as I was not at all comfortable. During lunch also I saw the way they used to give me food like people used to treat Harijan’s in early period not only that time but during expedition I saw still people are narrow minded and the cast problem continue. On my request Rotaractor Avinash took me to his house. I wanted to buy a pair of shoe so we visited at one of the Rotary member’s shop he asked us to come the next day in the morning. I went for the Rotary and Inner wheel meeting and got financial support from both the clubs. I had dinner at 10.00 enjoyed Cricket Match India won the match beating Pakistan after long time. Next day at Cuttuck after breakfast and spending time with Avinsh’s father who was very interesting person, we went to Shoe Shop. I bought one campus shoe worth Rs 600 but Rotarian asked me to pay only Rs 300. Rotaractor Manoj and Avinash were very much influenced and told me that they would like to do the same on Motorcycle. I wished them, both they dropped me on the highway and gifted me a goggle for the protection of eyes from such a hot climate. I was wanted to move as early as possible but these Rotaractors were wanted me to spend time with them. At last I said goodbye to them and started walk. After lunch I took almost an hour rest because of heat. I wanted to reach Bhadrak (100 Km from Cuttuck) by evening I hitchhiked at around 6.30 and reached at 8 O’clock because of dark I called Rotarian Pramod Kumar Jera (Ref- Rotaractor Avinash) explained him and requested for the help. He gave me his address and asked to come it was dark and no lights on highway as his shop was 3 Km. He accommodated me in a lodge and left. Not much interested in me. I had dinner and slept at 10.30 p.m. From 15th April till 19th April I walked through Soro village helped by Rotarian Ratnakar Rath and stayed in a Daak Bungalow. Balasore City helped by Rotaractor Harsha Gupta and Anurag Jain stayed in “Rajasthan Bhavan.” They even repaired my rucksack that was damaged and gifted me a T-shirt. Jaleshwar City helped by Rotarian B.M. Agarwal Stayed in a lodge On 19th April entered West Bengal through Midnapore. I found there were lots of trees on the highway. Lot of trees were planted few cut by the villagers and few were still growing. I visited a place called “Bose Abasan Prakalp” to find Rotaractor Chandn Bose (From the International Directory). His father was very impressed to see me doing something different. He asked me to stay in the guesthouse, which was dirty because of not using it for long time but still I cleaned it. I took bath and washed few clothes. Mr. Bose called a local News Paper Reporter. He took my interview. At night I had Begali home made dinner. I got a call from Rotaractor Dipankar Jana. He came to know from Mr. Bose. He came to see me. Mr. Bose arranged the speech in D.A.V. School his friend Mr. Rana was member of WWF and got the permission for the talk. I packed my rucksack and slept at 11 O’clock. The next day morning Rotaractor Dipankar came picked me to the D.A.V. School. I carried my rucksack after thanking Mr. Bose. Mr. Rana welcomed me and delivered the speech. Everyone praised a lot and wished me for the journey. Before I moved ahead Dipankar showed me the oldest school built in 1835 where Khudiram Bose (Indian Sacrificed his life for the Freedom of India. He was hanged by the British) studied in the same School. I reached Hawrah (130 Km) and called Rotaractor Somnath Maji but he was not at home his brother Rajesh was at home he gave me two members phone numbers and asked me to contact them. I tried but no one was at home and others I found helpless. So I decided to visit directly at Somnath’s house. After reaching home I got warm welcome by his brother even though I did not informed before coming. I just had a talk with him about Somnath first time. I explained him and his mother about the expedition that time I noticed changed in them. They respected me a lot and asked me to stay in Somnath’s room. I took bath and had dinner Somnath also came at that time. His brother explained him and then he recognized because he was present in Agra for “Rotasia Meet” He was stunt knowing that I covered Sri Lanka also. I had chat with him for long time and slept at 11 O’clock. I was going to Calcutta before that Rotaractor Somnath called up Rotaractor Brothindro and informed him about me even he was aware about the expedition. After breakfast and thanking everyone I moved to Calcutta that was just a few Km away. I walked through the famous Hawrah Bridge. and Within an hour I reached “Marble Palace” I got shock when I entered the palace. It was really a palace I could not believe it I thought there might be a house and “Marble Palace” name has given to the house. At the entrance a huge gate was and security guard at the gate. It was very big and precious. I guessed there might be history behind it. Brathindro was not yet ready so I took a look and enquired the staff working in the Palace about the history of the palace. He told me that it’s historical place in Calcutta. It was built in 1840. Construction started in 1835 and completed in 1840 by Brathindro’s great-great Grandfather Raja Rajendro Mullick Bahadur. The whole Mullick family stays in the same palace. The Palace is open for all It has Art Gallery, Zoo and botanical garden. By the time I get all the information Brathindro came and welcomed me. I told him my plan that was to visit Bangladesh High Commission. Actually according to my program I would go to Bangladesh after Bhutan but by the time rainy season starts and came to know from many people that Bangladesh suffers from the flood. It would be difficult for me to walk in those conditions so I thought of covering Bangladesh first and then Nepal Bhutan and so on. But the office was closed as we reached half an hour late at 1 p.m. where, as the timing was 9.15-12.30 Noons. Rotaractor Sanjeeb came at the office of the High Commission he dropped me at Rotarian Ranjeet Mullik’s office whom I met in Sri Lanka. He gave me Rotary Club’s Meeting places and timings to get financial support. After that I visited WWF got some posters and stickers. In the evening Brathindro picked me from the place of Rotarian Mallik. We came back to Marble palace by Metro (Only place in India where underground local train runs.) I was supposed to stay with Rotaractor Apratim Ghoshal. He came and picked me we went by taxi to his house. Everybody welcomed me and slept after dinner. In the morning after breakfast I moved alone at the office of the Bangladesh High Commission. I filled up an application and waited in the queue my number was very far and officers were very slow. Before office gets close at 12.30 the officer took everybody’s application forms and Passports. No one has received any receipt against the submission. The officer asked us to come on 26th. When I did not wanted to spend much time conditions goes against me. I was not sure whether I would be getting Visa or not even if I spend so many days. In the after Noon I visited a school “Birla Boys School” spoke to the concern teacher and requested for the speech. Her name was Mrs. D’souza. She asked me to come on Monday. I called up Bangladesh high commission explained him and requested to give the Visa as early as possible but even he denied doing it before the given time. I attained the meeting of Rotary club of Central. After the meeting Rotarian Chittaranjan Chaudhary dropped me close to the bus station and I came back to Apratim’s house by bus. Slept at 11.30 p.m. Today I moved towards News Paper Offices. First I visited “The Telegraph” and “Anand Bazar Patrika” but the receptionist told me that the Reporters come in the evening. Then I visited “The Statesman” but the same reply from the receptionist. In the afternoon I went to the Hotel Grand Oberoi one of the Five Star Hotels in Calcutta. Contacted Rotarian S.S. Sinha (met in Sri Lanka) he welcomed me and introduced proudly to many Rotarians. In the evening I visited “The Statesman” and met a nice lady reporter who told me that she wanted to make a story so when I would be going to the Birla boys high school two girls would be contacting me. Priyanka and Shranya immediately she spoke to Priyanka, even I spoke to her and fixed up the point of meeting on Monday at 9.30. In the evening I visited Rotary Club of Bhavanipur Rotarian Ranjeet Mullik’s club. Uncle asked me to come and stay with him for two days. I got disappointment from “The Telegraph” and “Anand Bazar Patrika” even after visiting at the given time. I came back to Apratim’s house had dinner and slept at 11. It was third day in Calcutta and I shifted to Rotarian Ranjeet Mullick’s house. He was having very big and precious Bungalow and a special guesthouse. It was like a hotel the room was air-conditioned with a colour TV inside, attached bathroom and toilet. On 25th April Uncle told me that few Rotarians wants to see me and they would be coming at his house. He asked me not to go anywhere. After some time Uncle called me there were two Rotary Members they were very excited to meet and to see me. They praised a lot one was Rotary ann Mrs. Ratna Ganguli and Mr. Rajesh Shah he was a Gujarathi old man invited me for lunch at his house. Mrs Ratna Ganguly told me that she was running a Shelter for animals. I wished her if I could get to see it and she replied that she would make arrangement for me. In the afternoon I had lunch at Mr. Shah’s house and in the evening I went saw Victoria palace and Show in the Birla Planetarium. I came back had dinner and slept at 1.00 after watching a Hindi Movie “Kareeb.” I packed my rucksack and kept aside as few guest of Uncle were suppose to come to stay. I went to Birla Boys High School and stopped at the meeting point. Pia and Rakshi (Sharanya) these two girls of around 18 years of age wrote many articles for “The Statesman” We met Mrs. D’souza who called me today for the talk turned me down in front of those girls. When principal did not allow me to talk she said, “Why you did not gave any written letter or application as I told you to give?” I was so angry on her that last time when I spoke to her, I specifically asked that would I need to talk to the principal that time she denied. Piya and Rakshi saw my face and said do not worry we would visit Birla Girls High School where both studied and knew Principal very well. Both tried a lot and got the permission to talk with the 3rd and 4th standard students. It was better for me than nothing and more over it would be very different experience to talk with so small students. I got tremendous happiness as the small students of less than 8 years of age responded spontaneously and promised to help in improving the prevailing conditions. After the speech I thanked Pia and Rakshi. In the afternoon I went to Bangladesh Consulate and tried to get the Visa by many ways. When even at 7 O’clock nobody called my name I enquired again and saw that the application form was still in the first stage. I was very angry but could not do any thing. The officer again asked me to come on 28th for the interview. Those stupid officers asked me to spend two more days, they do not understand anybody’s problem and they do not care for others time. I was fade up but kept cool and convinced my self that in expedition I would face such kind of problems. I came back at Uncle’s house and explained him he called one of his friends who knew one of the Officers in the Consulate. Uncle explained him and requested him to speak to him and see what could happen. Rotarian Farooq Hamid spoke to the visa officer and told me to visit on 28th. I called up Mr. Debashish Chakravorthy (chief of Compassionate Crusaders Trust reference given by Rotarian ann Mrs. Ratna Ganguli) and requested him to arrange my visit to the Animal Shelter. He asked me to go to Tollygunj office at 11.30 and contact Mr. Amarnath Ghosh. I called up Rotaractor Brathindro and told him that I would have to spend 2-3 days more and please search any other place for the accommodation, as Uncle’s guesthouse was full. I slept at 10 p.m. In the morning after breakfast I thanked Uncle and Aunty they both blessed me. I went to Brathindro’s house kept my rucksack and went to visit Animal Shelter contacted Mr. Amarnath Ghosh who took me to Animal Shelter, which was around 25 Km from Calcutta. We moved in a van cum Ambulance that catches dogs. There were few dogs inside and because of heat they were barking a lot. Still at the Tollyganj Office we sprayed the water on the dog and tried to make them cool. When I reached there, I noticed the name that has given to the Shelter was “karuna Kunj” (Kind home) part of Compassionate Crusaders Trust associated with PFA (People for Animal an organization run by Maneka Gandhi) The trust has got everything free land, three Ambulance, an auto, Tube well, water tank and even the construction of the Shelter. There were around 6-8 workers who take care of the Shelter rather animals. There were around 35 Dogs and 75 Cats. The whole Shelter runs on Donations from Govt., Ngo’s and many other resources. The work of the Shelter was to provide shelter for stray Dogs, Cats and other animals. The officers like Mr. Amarnath Ghosh visits any Housing Society explain the people of the society about their organization and work undertaken by them. They request the Housing society people that they would take stray dogs of their area provide food and shelter to them against which Housing society should bare the expenses per month. Sometimes even individuals come forward and sponsor for the animals of their own area. Mr. Ghosh told me that mostly kind hearted women call us. When I was there I saw a family came with their dog, the dog was dead and tears were in the eyes of the family members. In a corner of the Shelter there was a Marty yard the family buried the dog and donated some money for the Shelter. Mr. Ghosh told few people come sometime on Sundays with meat and feed the dogs. With the help of people and funding organization “Karuna Kunj” runs the show. I was highly impressed the way all worked to take care of animals. I had lunch in the Shelter played with good friendly dogs. Took many photographs and came back in the evening. I went to Marble Palace waited for Brathindro, had dinner at his house and could see him only at 10 O’clock with another Rotaractor Joy Biswas. Both Joy and me came to his house at Salt Lake. His mother and sister welcomed me it was almost 11 O’clock I went to sleep. Aunty served me breakfast with fruits. Then I moved alone to the Bangladesh Consulate. I enquired about the Visa Officer and told the receptionist that he has asked me to come. She told he hasn’t come. Actually he was inside the office, but the stupid officer does not wanted me to go in. at last at 2 p.m. he called me and asked many questions. He told me to bring letter of any Rotary Club stating that the Rotary Club Sponsored the expedition. I visited Rotarian Ranjeet Mullick got the letter and submitted to the Visa officer. But I could not understand why the stupid officer was delaying even after completing all the formalities still he asked me to come on 30th because of the holiday on 29th as Bangladesh celebrates Buddha Poornima, as India would celebrate it the next day. I was frustrated and cursed on the officers for not understanding value of others time. I spent whole day in the office but all in vain could not get Visa. I came back to joy’s house spent time with his niece Ria who was very sweet girl of around 5-6 years of age and brilliant. Today I spent some time chatting with Joy, as I was not able to explain and show photographs to him, aunty and his sister. I had dinner and slept at 11. I spent many days in Calcutta running behind visa of Bangladesh. But then one day on 30th the stupid officer replied coolly that I would have to wait for few more days. I got damn angry and felt like killing all of them. I didn’t show any respect, I asked for my passport and said I do not need visa give me my passport. I got the Passport and came out with the frustration. In Calcutta I met a girl named Antara Ghosh, she was one of the nicest girls I ever met in my life and became best friend of mine. She took me around the places in Calcutta and helped me in knowing Calcutta. Calcutta was the capital of India during the British occupation from the 1700's to the early 1900's. It is still important as India's chief port for trade with Southeast and East Asia. It is also the gateway to the most heavily populated part of northeastern India. The city has some of the most crowded living conditions in the world. The main city of Calcutta lies on the east bank of the Hooghly River, a branch of the Ganges (or Ganga) River. Calcutta is overcrowded; there is an acute housing shortage. A third of the city's population lives in slums, in areas known as bustees. The slum dwellings are constructed from scraps of metal or wood. Tens of thousands of people sleep in the streets because they have no shelter. Many of Calcutta's poor are married men who left their families in poor villages in West Bengal, Bihar and Orissa and migrated to the city to find employment. Many of them remain unemployed once they arrive. Much of the city still has no proper sewerage system. Many of the poor people who live in Calcutta risk disease by washing in and drinking unfiltered water supplied for street cleaning. Calcutta also has some extremely rich people. Wealthy citizens live near the centre of Calcutta in pleasant neighbourhoods with wide streets and modern houses. The finest residential area is just east of the Maidan. This part of Calcutta includes exclusive clubs, two golf courses, two racecourses, a stadium, and one of the oldest cricket grounds in the world. Calcutta has produced many poets, writers, and artists. The local people say that every third person is a poet. Calcutta was the home of Rabindranath Tagore, the first Asian writer to win the Nobel Prize for literature. The talented film director, Satyajit Ray, was born in Calcutta. The city has film studios at Tollygunge and has one of the oldest symphony orchestras in Asia. After moving out of Calcutta I walked through Bandel a town, Burdwan where Rotaractor Prem Agarwal helped me and we could visit St. Xavier’s School and before entering Bihar, Bholpur (Shantiniketan). It was not a city but a famous town the birthplace of two Noble Prize Winners, Ravindra Nath Tagore (Who wrote National Anthem of India) and other one was Dr. Amartya Sen (Noble Prize winner for the year 1999 for Economics) I did not walk through Bihar (Because the dangerous conditions in Bihar. I read once that there was an incident, two foreigners were on expedition and at a place the female was raped where as the male got killed for money. So I did not wanted to take risk) and moved to Raxaul (India-Nepal Border) by train. It was first time that I used train to travel.

Nepal 1st Day It was 7th May when I reached the border. I Crossed the India-Nepal Border in the evening and entered the number 3 country of the expedition. At the check post Police checked my rucksack and Passport. The post from Nepal side was called Birganj. It was the busy post I saw many trucks waiting aside of the road to cross the border. Few people were crossing the border without any check up or anything as if there is no check post. Birganj town was around 7 Km from the border so I walked the distance. I searched for Rotary member but I could not find but one person suggested me to go to Hotel Heera Plaza. Even on the way I met a Rotarian Omprakash he asked me to meet in the Hotel Heera Plaza, as they were having meeting at 7.30 One of the school Principal arranged accommodation in the hostel. The caretaker was not aware about me or my expedition so he didn’t want to take care of mine. He gave me a room and left. Because of last 2 days traveling I didn’t get good sleep at night, I slept well whole day here. In the evening caretaker sent his son to call me. He came to know about the expedition from Rotarians and felt sorry. I have got high respect he introduced me to his son Nirmal, daughter Alka and his wife. They invited me for dinner. Suddenly atmosphere changed terrific wind flowed with high speed and rain started with lightening and then power off. We had dinner in the candlelight. Nirmal was very much motivated and excited because of my expedition he spent lot of time with me chatting about expedition. 3rd Day I started the first day walk; I packed the rucksack and moved with Nirmal. He took me to his sister’s school where I delivered the speech first to 8th and 9th Class and then to 6th and 7th Class students. I spent almost an hour in the School and Nirmal dropped me on the highway. I didn’t find much difference between Indians and Nepalese except language. I reached a town called HETAUDA and stayed in the hotel. People used to look at me here too with the curiosity. 4th Day Next day morning from the hotel staff I came to know about the English School. I went to visit the school but the school starts from 9. On the way back to the hotel I met a nice person Mr. Arun knew Hindi very well. He understood that I am not from Nepal so he asked me what do I do? I told him about the expedition so he took me to the nearest school Ujjawal Boarding School. It was an English Medium School. I got the permission and had nice talk to around 100 students. Given Poster and sticker to the school. I thanked the person Mr. Arun for helping me to spread the message of eco protection. I packed the rucksack and moved on the way to Katmandu it was around 90 Km and on the height the road was through mountains. I hitchhiked and reached Katmandu. After reaching here I got the help of Rotaractors but the next day I came to know that I would be bearing the bill of the hotel. The place was famous and known for foreigners. It was nighttime so I could not see much. I had dinner and slept. 5th Day Katmandu was cold even in the month of May. It was partially cloudy. Early morning I went to Bangladesh High Commission and asked what all I would need for the Visa after explaining her about the expedition. She told me to get photocopies of News Paper cuttings and many other documents with the recommendation letter from Indian Embassy in Nepal. The girl was nice she helped and respected me a lot. Then I went to the office of the Indian Embassy. I got the recommendation letter to get the Bangladesh Visa but I got it in the evening at 4 O’clock. The officers treated me very nicely and praised a lot. I told them what happened in Calcutta the trouble story of Bangladesh Consulate. Population of Kathmandu is around 500,000, it also spelled Katmandu, is the largest city of Nepal. It lies in a valley in central Nepal amid the Himalayan foothills. The city is known for its many graceful Hindu and Buddhist temples. Kathmandu's main industry is tourism. Light industry in the city includes brick, carpet, and concrete manufacturing; and woodworking and metalworking. Historians do not know when Kathmandu was founded, but the area has been inhabited for at least 2,600 years. The first known settlers were the Newars. In 1768, the nearby kingdom of Gorkha conquered Kathmandu and united the region that became the modern kingdom of Nepal. Today, members of several ethnic groups live in Kathmandu. Most of the city's people are Hindus, but many are Buddhists. 6th Day There I played a game with the Bangladesh Consulate. I understood that if I show in my expedition program that I would be going to Burma (Myanmar) after Bangladesh would have got in to trouble. I made a special program to submit to the Bangladesh High Commission in, which I showed that I would be coming in India in Agartala. But I would be walking according to my expedition program. So early morning I moved to visit first to Bangladesh High Commission submitted all the documents with the application form. The girl was very nice she explained everything about my expedition to the Embassy. I submitted even the recommendation letter of Indian Embassy. She asked me to come in the evening at 4 O’clock. When I came back at 4 p.m. I was dancing after getting the visa. It was the happiest moment because I knew, once I entered Bangladesh I would be coming to India only after the end of Expedition. In the evening I visited Rotary Club of Katmandu and got support of Rs. 3000 (Nepali Currency) the money was enough for me to cover Nepal. I paid the hotel bill at night, which was expensive for me. 7th Day I moved early morning towards Dhulikhel (33 Km) I had heavy breakfast while walking. I purchased one cloth mask looking at the pollution. I tried to find hotel where I could get Roti’s but no, everywhere rice, rice and rice. I was climbing up and walking high and high as usual people used to look at me with the curiosity. I reached Dhulikhel at 4 O’clock on the way I saw a board of Rotary Club. I got happy because I was not aware about the presence of Rotary at this hill station. I enquired with the people they guided me to a school and told that the School Head Master was the Rotary member. I could meet him in the school and explained him. His name was Mr. Bed, he was no more in the Rotary but still he helped me a lot. He took me to Mr. Bel Prasad Sreshtha who was the Mayor of Dhulikhel and running the best of best hotel “Himalaya Horizone”. He welcomed me and asked what need brought me to the Rotary. I explained him and requested to help for accommodation. He was so kind and nice he asked one of his servants to open a Double Bedroom for me. He asked me to have food in his hotel itself. I thanked him and moved with the servant, the room was ready. It was such a nice room I never stayed anywhere so far. I enquired about the charges just for the sake of curiosity, the servant told me 1000 rupees (Nepali Currency). The room was superb actually for couple for honeymoon the room was best. I took bath and came the other side of the hotel. Oh!!!!!!! God it was amazing, amazing beauty of nature. I saw golden color around the mountains and sun disappearing slowly-slowly. I would have written a poem if I would be a poet. I would have got to see the Everest clearly but because of clouds I could see only little part of it and Himalayan range. It was the best spot and one would really enjoy and love the place. It was peaceful and I thanked God for making my life joyful with thousands of colors that I get to see. I was alone sitting in such a romantic atmosphere and missing some one. The place was really great for the couples to spend nights. I saw few photographs that even in winter (December or January) the spot look more beautiful. At night I had dinner with Uncle and Aunty, as their Bungalow was besides the hotel. 8th Day Early morning I had breakfast and came to the same point where I spent my whole evening yesterday. I got to see the Great Everest Mountain clearly it was great and unbelievable I jumped and there was no limit of my joy. It was full white, the whitest white and some part was with the golden shining because of sunrays. The servants were very happy looking at me and asked me to come again in winter season. I felt like I have achieved some thing great in my life. It was the greatest moment in my life. Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world. It rises about 9 kilometres above sea level. Everest is one of the mountains that make up the Himalaya, on the frontiers of Tibet and Nepal, north of India. Surveyors disagree on the exact height of Mount Everest. A British government survey in the middle 1800's set the height at 8,840 metres. The 1954 Indian government survey set the present official height at 8,848 metres. But a widely used unofficial figure is 8,882 metres. Mount Everest was named after Sir George Everest (1790-1866), a British surveyor general of India. Tibetans call Mount Everest Chomolungma. Nepalese call the mountain Sagarmatha. Mount Everest is, geologically, a relatively young mountain, formed from folded limestone rock that is still being forced slowly upward by the movement of land masses below it. Ice sheets cover the sides of the mountain, although the summit, peaks, and ridges are kept clear by strong winds. Conditions are too inhospitable to support much plant or animal life. Many climbers have tried to scale Mount Everest since the British first saw it in the 1850's. Avalanches, crevasses, and strong winds have combined with extreme steepness and thin air to make the climb difficult. The first attempts began in the 1920's. There were ten expeditions, mainly by British and Swiss mountaineers with the assistance of Sherpas as guides and porters, between 1921 and 1952. Some attempts came close to success, but conditions defeated the climbers. The eventual conquests of the peak came partly as a result of increased knowledge and of improved equipment, which had been developed during this period. This included insulated footwear and clothing, portable oxygen cylinders, and lightweight radio equipment. On May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Nepalese Sherpa tribesman, became the first men to reach the top. They were members of a British expedition led by Sir John Hunt. It left Kathmandu, Nepal, on March 10, 1953, and approached the mountain from its south side--which had been called unclimbable. As the climbers advanced up the slopes, they set up a series of camps, each with fewer members. The last camp, one small tent at 8,504 metres, was established by Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who reached the summit alone. On May 16, 1975, Junko Tabei of Japan became the first woman to reach the top of Mount Everest. Himalaya, also called Himalayas, is the highest mountain system in the world. The name Himalaya comes from the Sanskrit language and means the House of Snow, or the Snowy Range. The Himalaya consists of several parallel mountain ranges. The mountains extend in a 2,410-kilometre curve across southern Asia from the Pamirs, west of the great bend of the Indus River, eastward to the great bend of the Brahmaputra River. They form a barrier that separates northern India from the plateau of Tibet, in China. Parts of the Himalayan system are as much as 320 kilometres wide. The Himalaya joins with other mountain ranges of Asia that stretch east and west. The Karakoram mountain system, which includes the Karakoram, or Mustagh, Range and three lesser ranges, is the northwestern extension of the Himalaya. The Himalaya rises in steps from the plains of northern India, which have an elevation of about 300 metres above sea level. Mount Everest, whose official height is 8,848 metres, lies between Tibet and Nepal. It is the highest mountain in the world. K2 (8,611 metres), in the Karakoram Range in northern Kashmir, is the world's second highest mountain. K2 is also called Mount Godwin Austen, or Dapsang. One of the most famous peaks in the Himalaya is Mount Kailas (6,714 metres), which lies in Tibet. The Tibetans call it Kang Rimpoche (the Mountain of Precious Snow). This mountain is holy to the Hindus and Buddhists and is said to contain the thrones of their gods. Pilgrims from all parts of central Asia and India climb the mountain. They usually climb on foot, and the journey takes them from tropical jungles to freezing heights. Lying below the peak is the Holy Lake Manasarowar, where the pilgrims worship. Kanchenjunga, or Kinchinjunga (8,598 metres), the third highest mountain in the world, lies near Mount Everest, between Nepal and the Indian state of Sikkim. Other high peaks are Makalu I (8,481 metres); Makalu II (7,660 metres); Dhaulagiri (8,172 metres); Nanga Parbat (8,126 metres); and Mount Kamet (7,756 metres). The passes that run through the Himalaya are among the highest in the world. Few of the passes are lower than 4,600 metres above sea level. Most are covered with snow from November to May and are then impossible to cross. Many glaciers form in the high passes. Almost every kind of climate can be found in the Himalaya because of the many different altitudes. This makes possible a variety of plant lives. On the steep southern slopes grow tropical plants, such as fig and palm trees. These plants are found up to a height of 910 metres. Oak, chestnut, and laurel trees are common up to 2,100 metres. Deodar and pine trees begin to appear at 3,660 metres. Many shrubs and climbing plants are found in the forests. Rhododendrons grow on the mountain slopes. The tea plant is cultivated up to 1,500 metres. On the southern slopes, rice, maize, and millet are grown up to 1,800 metres. Wheat and barley are grown in slightly higher regions. I thought of spending some more time but the expedition must go on so I moved ahead after thanking all the hotel staff. I could walk hardly a Km and the real expedition started through mountains. Because the road was for different route and I chose to walk on the Eastern route through mountains. For five days I would be walking through mountains and later again I would reach the highway. If I would catch highway it would take almost 15 days to reach the same place. No doubt it was risky but I was prepared for anything, after all it was expedition, risk is another name of expedition. I left everything on GOD and moved on. Even I wanted to have some Adventure and before choosing the route I got lot of information from Katmandu itself. People told me there would be villages and I would get people walk from one village to other, as there was no road at all. You cannot drive even a bicycle. Have to go on foot wherever you want. So far I have traveled everywhere on the highways but now I would be enjoying the difference. And the journey started. I started climbing up I got few villagers who understand little Hindi language there is not much difference in Nepali and Hindi. Even I used to understand their language (a little). But mostly I met people who knew Hindi because many Nepali’s have stayed in India at least for one or two years. I enquired them about the route and how it would be, difficult or easy, I would meet people on the way or not etc. they used to guide me very well. Once I reached on the top of any hill, I could see the valley and villages. Most of the times I used to get company from one place to other. First day I thought of covering around 20-25 Km by evening as it was hilly region, lots of ups and downs, carrying approx 20 kg wait on the back was little difficult. I came to know that Kattunje is the village 30 Km from Dhulikhel, where I would get the Police Station & seek their help. So I decided to walk little faster. At a small village where there was a small stall I had lunch. The villages were of 5-6 houses that to scattered, one on the top of the hill and other at the bottom. It was not much difficult to pass through without anybodies guidance. The path was good except little trekking. I was enjoying beauty of nature at the same time villagers used to look at me but on those faces I have not seen the curiosity. They might have seen many trekkers, while trekking on this side. Few people used to ask me in Nepali but I used to ask them in reply Hindi aata hai? (Do you know Hindi) I really enjoyed the walk. At last I reached Kattunje at 6.30 p.m. when it was almost dark, if few villagers would not have helped me accompanying as they were of the same village, it would have been trouble for me in searching the way in darkness. Here whether condition was encouraging for walking. But kattunje was much better than all the villages that I crossed. Visited Police Station, it was small station. Before Police enquires me, I explained them (lied, I did not wanted to take risk explaining them about the expedition.) that I am doing a project studying India and Nepal on it’s people, culture and environment. I visit schools and make students aware about the environmental problems. I would be traveling by walk up to Darjeeling and would be returning back. I requested to help me for the night stay. I showed them my photographs. They checked my rucksack and asked me to stay in a house (A big hall where 4-5 people stay together) it was a kind of dormitory. 3-4 people were already staying there. I was little worried about the rucksack. It was the worst place I ever stayed in, what else one can expect in a village. But the charges were Rs.40 without toilet or bathroom. In the evening I spent some time with the villagers, everyone was showering love on me. I had noodles and rice for the dinner & slept well. 9th Day It was 15th May cold but pleasant morning. Today I went in the forest for latrine, it was cold so no question of bath. I had heavy breakfast got the information from one of the Policemen & moved ahead towards Loomughat, a village around 25 Km but this was dangerous, deadly terrific and toughest walk ever. When I left Dhulikhel, till Kattunje I used to get many people because it was close to Dhulikhel (close to Highway). But later I faced lots of problems up to Mangaltar village, I used to get company while walking. When I reached this village it was the afternoon, 12.30. There was a Police Station I spent some time enquiring about the distance and time would take to reach Loomughat. Then I went to a hotel cum house and had lunch. The lady was very smart and knew Hindi, I got more information from her, she asked me, why am I walking? I continued the same story of Kattunje that I am doing a project studying India and Nepal, it’s people, culture and environment. I visit schools and make students aware about the environmental problems. I would be traveling by walk up to Darjeeling and would be returning back. She asked me to show the photographs, I showed. She was very kind, asked me to stay for the night in her hotel cum house in Mangaltar and move the next day with her brother as he would go to Loomughat, the next day. I thanked her, replied, “No” and moved by enquiring the way. Here I found many village girls used to look at my sack & me with the curiousity. I used to give a smile to them and move. I had lot of problems searching the right ways after I crossed Mangaltar because later I had to walk through the river (Dry). I crossed the river but I got stuck, I could not see even a person who would help me to show the way. I was walking through the river and there was no sign of path. At last I got a footpath and I walked on the same. After half an hour walk when I was climbing a hill I got a girl and an old lady, the girl scared very much and was running. I just shouted Loomughat- Loomughat then she and the old lady stopped and turned back she could understand little Hindi. She helped me a lot she told me that I am on the wrong path. She asked me to walk with them I walked back again with a very less talk with the girl and the old lady because of language barrier. It took more than half an hour to reach at the basin of the river, at the same place where I was before entering the wrong path. She showed me the path to Loomughat. I thanked her and moved on the right path. In the afternoon I took bath at a place in the river where the water flow was more. I enjoyed the river bath. It was first time in the expedition that I stopped while walking and took bath in the river. I got a funny experience on the site. A man was crossing the river; I thought to take a photograph of such a difference experience. I took out the camera and requested him to take the photograph during bath. He didn’t know Hindi but I thought I made him convince by showing how picture should be taken, it was Kodak Camera, functioning is smooth & easy. I could understood that it was his first time in life because the way he handled the camera. I came back and showed him again, when he did not hold the camera properly. Finally with confidence he asked me to go, I sat down on the rock in the water and asked him to click. What he did? He turned (moved the direction) to his right and clicked. I was laughing at him and thought he didn’t understand so again I explained him and told not to move any side, just stand up as it is & press the button. I showed him with action but the second time also he did the same thing, he turned to his right and clicked. I could not stop laughing and thanked him. I did not wanted to waste my photographs on experience. The route was all along with the river, some times I had to come down and walk through the river and sometime walk on the rocks or footpath along side the river. It was easy to climb up but very difficult to get down because of the slope and slipperiness. It was such a dangerous walk, I used to call my mother, I feel she saved me many a times in that six hours walk. Many places it was like if I slips then directly in the water and there were many stones in the river mainly at the corner or at a side. I would not have faced much problem but because of rucksack I used to get in trouble. After lot of precaution and care I used to overcome the trouble. I used to call my Mother, it was the most lonely walk, I used to get scared when I walked through dangerous places where anyone would have killed me and no one would know about me and my expedition. At last with the deadliest walk I reached Loomughat at 6 in the evening. The village was even smaller than Kattunje (previous) I saw hardly twenty houses and few scattered on the hills. But the village was other side and for that had to cross a swinging bridge. I saw few villagers watching me with the curiosity and were suggesting me lot when they saw fear on my face. It was really dangerous bridge. Due to heavy wind, it was swinging a lot as I tried to cross it. I was really tired facing troubles. It was another challenge God wanted me to cross the bridge, which needs lots of courage that I exhausted on the way. Oh!!!!!! It was a bridge like we used to play in the child hood BURMA BRIDGE it was same. I was really very scared, now when I remember the incident & the bridge I could not stop laughing. Anyhow I crossed it and reached other side safely. But what happiness and satisfaction I got after crossing so many hurdles was unexplainable in words that one has to feel. The people whom I used to ask for the route direction while walking, they used to enquire about me, here I had a different story for those people, I used to lie, “Mera saathi choot gaya, aur ab mujhe Loomughat Police Station jaana hai or (whichever police Station I would go I take that name) ”. “I lost my friends/group & now I want to reach the xyz Police Station. So people used to think that he was on trekking and lost the way so he is going to the Police Station. In that way I used to save my self from any kind of trouble without talking and showing much. In this village the Police Station was just the adjacent building and few policemen were watching the show. As soon as I reached the other side one of the Policemen asked me the same question, I explain (the same story) and stayed with them in small broken building but the policemen were all young men of my age. Here I enjoyed chatting with the young Policemen. They told me a story about Yeti or Abominable Snowman, is a creature said to live on Mount Everest and other mountains of the Himalaya range of Asia. Reports of such a creature have also come from remote parts of China, Siberia, and other parts of Asia. According to legend, the Abominable Snowman is a hairy beast with a large, apelike body and a face that resembles that of a human being. It has long arms that reach to its knees, and it walks erect on its thick legs. Legend says that the Abominable Snowman sometimes comes down from the mountains to attack villagers. The name Abominable Snowman may have come from a newspaperman's translation of metoh kangmi, a Tibetan name for the creature. The name Yeti was given to it by the Sherpa people of Nepal. The word probably meant all-devouring creature, and it may refer to a mountain demon rather than a real creature. There is no direct evidence that the Yeti exists. Local tribes and Western travellers have reported seeing it, but their stories cannot be verified. I had nice time with them but it was very panic day for me and even my whole body was paining. I had a painkiller tablet and slept at 8.30 p.m. 10th Day Since last three day’s I didn’t get rest so I thought of walking the nearest village so enquired about the next nearest Police Station. I had very heavy breakfast, thanked all the policemen and moved towards Choprang, which was the nearest one. Policemen told me, it would take me max-to-max six hours to reach Choprang. But it took Ten hours to reach. It was the repetition of yesterday’s walk. Missed the way and walked through more dangerous and deadliest places than yesterday. I was walking again along side the river. I was more scared then yesterday. It was very bad situation many times I had to wait for some one to come and help me for the way. Once because of language problem I couldn’t get the person clearly where he was directing me and missed the way. I climbed up and up on the mountain. First time I got hurt during climbing a mountain. A portion of loose rock came in my hand and lost the grip as the whole portion & I collapsed down. It was good that I was not on much height around 20 feet from the plane portion on the mountain and it was inclined so I stick to the mountain like the lizard does and came down. I got many scratches on my hands, stomach and legs. I would have crossed it easily but always got the problem with the rucksack. I sat down there itself took out the first aid box and used the medicines first time in expedition during walk. It was thrilling experience. I was very much alone and scared at few dangerous places. More over the path was not clear means problems for searching the right path. Some times I thought I should catch highway and walk on highway. But even for highway I had to wait for at least 3-4 days. At last I reached Choprang at 6 O’clock. The Police officer was not at all good, first he denied but later he agreed after requesting a lot. I stayed in their building with them. This was much bigger village than all previous villages. It was beautiful and on the height. But in All those villages I didn’t get light. So everywhere I was sleeping at 8 or 8.30 p.m. and having rice, rice and rice only. 13th Day It took me four more days to reach on the highway. All those four days I had similar kind of problem. I stayed in two villages first in Monthali took one day rest (On 11th – 12th Day), as few policemen would walk the next day to Sindhuli village. Even I was little tired because of continuous walk. I met many people carrying the goods at their back even the small children’s, as there were no roads. The shopkeeper or people have to carry the goods either with the help of helper who take money for carrying the goods. I saw small boys and girls carry weight of more than 30 kg and elders or youngsters carry more than 50 kg or some carry even 100 kg too. I saw their style of carrying goods was different and so it was possible for them to carry so much of weight from one village to other. I found those people kind and very hard working. If anyone get to see such scene, small boys & girls carrying 20-30 kg & elderly men & women carrying 50-100 kg weight on their back, their heart will cry. So much pain, every after few steps they used to stop, what more I can say for those poor people. It was really heartbreaking for me. Even many places I found women’s and girls work in the farms or go to the forest for collecting wood for cooking and men mostly young play cards or caramboard. Not only that they bet on each game and play on money. The girl’s and women’s work hard, takes care of kids, earns, cook’s and does everything but still man does not care her and he drinks, he smokes, he plays, he spends on bet and sometimes even he beat’s the women. Means women’s are born for suffering, is it so? 14th Day The happy day came where I would be getting the highway very soon and would walk on the road. I was fade up because of searching the way otherwise I enjoyed the journey through the forest it was unforgettable walk. I moved towards Dhalkebar in the evening that was just 35 Km from Sindhuli. I went to the Police Station and requested to help me for the accommodation. With the help of Police I got the place in just 50 rupees. It was a house cum guest house but with a Dormitory, at that time I was alone. In the evening a foreigner came on bicycle and tried to enquire about the rent. I was sitting inside but when I heard English conversation, I came out. I spoke to him on behalf of the owner and he stayed with me. I was very happy to see him. When I saw his bicycle I understood that he was also on an expedition. Once he got fresh, we spent some time chatting. He was Mathew Blaylock from England & was traveling since last ten months. His journey would end up after two and half months. He has visited ten countries i.e. Australia, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and other. But he flew many times and spent around 7000 US$. He was traveling just as a tourist. I enquired him about the conditions of countries, which I would be visiting. When I told him about my expedition he was also happy as I. He was praising me for the cause, which I was walking. We spent good time together, had dinner with Roti’s after long time. I do not know what happened to me since, last 3-4 nights, I was not getting proper or sound sleep & a little back pain. Next day early morning before we start our journey we took photographs and wished each other for the rest of the journey. I could feel the change in temperature, it was flat surface & was feeling hot and hot. One night I spent in Lahan, a small village before reaching Bhardah here also I searched an asylum. People said that there was one guest house in the temple. When I went in the temple, I came to know that the guest house was closed since long time. No body lives in and no body maintains it. The priest of the temple was sitting at a hotel near the temple. I requested the priest & people there to show the guest house, as there was no alternative other than spending a night in Bhardah village. So the small boy who was very naughty and was nice to me, he showed me the guest house. I was having very different picture in mind but the reality was different. In no angle it was guest house. There were two dirtiest rooms, for one room there was no doors at all but for other there were (front and back) front could be locked from inside but not the back. There was a broken table, the whole room was full of sheet both of animal & human. It was extremely dirty. Whenever I get in to any kind of problem I used to leave it up to God. I knew I would face many such situations and was prepared for anything. I kept my rucksack aside and requested the boy and Aunty (hotel owner) to give me a broom and a dirty cloth with a bucket to take the water from the tube-well, which was just adjacent to the hotel, the room was also adjacent to the hotel. It was getting dark so I wanted to do it fast. The small boy helped me a lot. His name was Ravi he brought everything I poured lot of water swept & cleaned the room, we tried to dry it with the cloth. I closed the back door putting the table and a big stone on it. The front door could not be locked when those people saw the hard work they gave me a big thaila (a bag made up of cotton rope and long around 4-5 feet), which I put on the ground and then kept my rucksack. After that I took bath in front of the hotel at the open space under tube well. There were no lights in the asylum so I bought candles and Mosquito coils & essence sticks to get rid of the bad smell. While I was having the dinner few villagers started enquiring about me. I continued the same story here too. They all were very nice and kind, they asked me to take care few people were not aware that I was staying in the guest house, they surprised and said the border is just a Km and Bihari’s (People of Bihar) are known for robbery and murder in their area. So even they asked me not to come out from the room at night. I told them that I believe in God and God will take care of mine. I had very good dinner. Aunty prepared special dinner (compared to village standard) for me and charged less. It was because of the small boy Ravi, who asked his parents to do so. 16th Day I could not sleep peacefully just because of fear. So I was fine the only loss was my sleeping mat got dirty. Last night Ravi told me that I should visit his school, as everybody understands Hindi. That part was closed to border so most of them were Indian origin and could speak very good Hindi. I packed my rucksack kept it in the hotel and went with Ravi to his school. I carried Poster and stickers with me. I got the permission, all students were sitting inside the class. The teacher gathered them all in the ground. It was difficult even to make them understand in Hindi but still sometimes one teacher, used to interpret. At the end I found students understood a lot and I was successful in delivering the message. While coming back Ravi showed me Mr. Udit Narayan’s brother. I got shock, but then he called that man and said that I am from Mumbai. I was surprised but it was fact his whole family lives in Bhardah. I saw his name even in the list of donor’s of the temple. He born in Bhardah, means he is from Nepal. Mr. Udit Narayan is one of the famous male singers in India, he has earned name & fame in Mumbai in very short time. I came back from the school, picked up my rucksack and moved towards Itahari the next destination. In the afternoon I reached a village and had lunch. I saw many flags with the picture of Tree. I found out about it, it was the sign of a political party in the election. I requested to show me the office of that party if there is any. I got happy when the person showed me the office. I contacted a young man, there were many other people, and they all stopped their work looking at me. I explained him about the expedition and requested to provide 2-3 flags to me so that I can use them as banner for the expedition. I requested them because the quality of those banners was very good. The picture of tree was printed nicely and was washable. I was happy that even in the rain nothing would happen to the banner. Those people got very happy knowing about the expedition and more happy because I would be doing free publicity for them, as I would walk with the banner (conveying the message of planting trees) on the back of the rucksack. They gave me 2 flags I thanked them and was very happy. I reached Itahari in the evening saw the Rotary board again. Contacted two-three Rotary Club members and finally President Rotarian Devikanandan Agarwal helped me in putting up in an asylum and gifted me a T-shirt. (He was running a petrol pump so he had Gulf Companies T-shirts) 17th Day Next day One of the Rotary Club Members Rotarian Rajesh Agarwal has fixed up speech in a boarding school so he sent his boy to show the school. I contacted Principal Mr. Thapa he welcomed me and asked more about the expedition. I delivered the speech and moved towards Dharan, which was just 18 Km. I reached Dharan in the afternoon at 3 O’clock and stayed with Rotaractor Sneh Goel. On 25th May during breakfast many other family members came, as I was wanted to move towards Biratnagar. I got so much of love from his family, mostly grandmother she said, “It’s our pleasure that you have come to our house and stayed, you slept on the floor and didn’t asked for anything. You are sent by the God, you are Son of God.” She was making me a great person, she told me to carry a stick for self-protection. Looking at her love and caring advice, tears came out of my eyes. I thanked everyone and moved to Birat nagar. Biratnagar was another Birthplace of famous personality i.e. Manisha Koirala (An Indian famous actress) 26th to 28th May I walked through Damak, Birtamode which was around 35 Km. Then Phikal 50 Km. All those places I got the help of police for the accommodation in lodge with concession in rates & visited few schools there. Finally I got good & sound sleep, since last so many days I used to get up at 3 O’clock in the night and could not sleep later. But last night because of cold I got a very good sleep. I moved to Darjeeling (35 Km), got the fog again after long time. The border was just 10 Km from Phikal. It was known as Pashupati Nagar. It was raining but still walked full in rain. I could see many tea gardens on the hills. The whether conditions were really encouraging and I loved such conditions always. About Nepal Until the late 1700's, Nepal consisted of a number of small, independent kingdoms. About A.D. 400, the Kathmandu Valley, where the Nepalese capital is now located, came to be called Nepal. Through the centuries, bands of conquerors, nomads, and refugees moved into Nepal. They came from Central Asia, India, and Tibet and were the ancestors of the Nepalese. In the mid-1700's, Prithwi Narayan Shah, a king from a small Nepalese kingdom called Gorkha, began a military campaign to unify the country. By the time of his death in 1775, he had conquered most of what is now Nepal. He took the title of king of Nepal, and his descendants have served as monarchs ever since. In the early 1800's, Nepal fought a war against Britain. Nepal had attempted to expand its boundaries into northern India. A British trading company called the East India Company controlled much of India at that time, and British soldiers guarded India's borders. Britain declared war on Nepal in 1814 after Nepalese troops attacked a British outpost. The British expected an easy victory, but the Nepalese were accustomed to fighting in the mountains. The British Army suffered heavy losses but finally defeated the Nepalese in 1816. After the war, Britain and Nepal became allies. The Gurkha soldiers of the Nepalese forces impressed the British, and Britain has recruited Gurkhas for its armies since that time. In 1846, a political leader named Jung Bahadur seized control of Nepal's government. He took the honorary title of Rana and declared that a member of his family would serve as Prime Minister from then on. Until 1951, members of the Rana family held complete control of the government. During this period, the king had no power. The Ranas dominated the army, imprisoned their opponents, and even killed rivals whom they considered dangerous. During the 1930's and 1940's, opposition to Rana rule grew in Nepal. A revolution began in Nepal in 1950. The revolution overthrew the government and restored the monarchy to power under King Tribhuwan Shah in 1951. During the early 1950's, the government made various attempts to create a democracy in Nepal. King Tribhuwan died in 1955. He was succeeded by his son, Mahendra. Mahendra criticized the rivalry among political parties in democratic systems. In 1960, he declared that Nepal needed a political system that would suit its traditions. He dissolved the elected government that existed and took over power. Political parties were banned. In 1962, he put into effect a constitution that established the panchayat system, in which most power is held by the monarch. Under Mahendra's rule, the government stressed economic development, tourism, road construction, and hydroelectric power. Mahendra died in 1972, and his son, Birendra, succeeded him as king. Birendra has continued his father's programmes. In 1979, many Nepalese staged violent demonstrations, in part to demand a more democratic government. In response to the demands, Birendra allowed a national vote on the government system. By a narrow margin, the voters chose to continue Nepal's system. In 1990, violent demonstrations calling for more democracy broke out again. The king lifted the ban on political parties, and an interim government was formed. In November 1990, a constitution was approved that made Nepal a constitutional monarchy. In May 1991, democratic multiparty parliamentary elections were held. The Nepali Congress Party won a majority of the seats in the House of Representatives. In elections held in 1994, the Communist Party of Nepal won the most seats. Nepal has a population of about 24 Million and an area of 140,797 square kilometres. About 45 per cent of Nepal's people live in the Tarai. The rest of the people live in the hills and valleys region or in the mountains. Patches of farmland lie among the mountains of Nepal. These cultivated areas account for only about 10 per cent of the country's mountainous area, but almost all of the mountain people live there. Nepal is poor and undeveloped and has a high rate of disease. Nepal is divided into 75 districts for purposes of local government. Each district is divided into cities and villages. The people elect a committee and a committee head to administer each district, city, and village. Most Nepalese are closely related to the peoples of northern India. Other Nepalese are of Tibetan descent. Still others are of mixed Indian-Tibetan descent. Most people live in small villages in two-storey houses made of stone or mud brick. About 90 per cent of Nepal's people work on the land. Most farms produce barely enough to support one family. Nepalese farmers trade any surplus crops they grow for such important items as paraffin and salt. Other Nepalese make their living as craft workers, such as blacksmiths, goldsmiths, shoemakers, and tailors. Still others work as merchants, for the government, or in tourism. The Sherpas and the Gurkhas, two Nepalese groups, are known for their special skills. The Sherpas, a Himalayan people, have won fame as guides and porters for mountain-climbing expeditions. Sherpa men and women carry heavy loads up to high altitudes. Gurkhas are Nepalese soldiers in the British or Indian army. Hinduism is the official religion of Nepal. However, the Nepalese have combined the beliefs and practices of Hinduism with those of Buddhism. Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, was born in Nepal about 563 B.C. The Nepalese people celebrate the festivals of both Buddhism and Hinduism, and Buddhist shrines and Hindu temples are considered equally sacred. Many of the people of Nepal also worship local gods and spirits and consult shamans (witch doctors) in times of illness. Nepal has few doctors, and such diseases as cholera, leprosy, and tuberculosis occur frequently. Since the 1950's, the government has greatly reduced malaria. This has enabled people from the mountains to settle in the Tarai, where malaria used to be widespread. Some Hindus in Nepal practise polygyny, a form of marriage in which a husband has more than one wife. Polyandry, the practice of a wife having more than one husband, occurs among some of the Tibetan groups in northern Nepal. In most such cases, the woman marries two or more brothers. The children who are born of such marriages regard the oldest husband as their father and his brothers as uncles. Illiteracy ranks as one of Nepal's most serious problems. During the 1950's, the government began a programme to build schools and train teachers throughout Nepal. At that time, perhaps as few as 5 per cent of the people 15 years old or older could read and write. The programme has helped increase the percentage to about 20. Tribhuwan University is Nepal's only university. It includes a main campus in Kathmandu and many other campuses in the country. About half of the people speak Nepali--the country's official language--as their native tongue. Most of the rest of the people use Nepali as a second language. Nepali is related to the languages of northern India. More than 50 other languages and dialects are spoken. The currency of Nepal is Nepalese Rupee (1US$ = 70). The Nepal flag has two crimson triangles trimmed in blue, one above the other. The top triangle features the moon and the lower one the sun, symbols of the long life of Nepal. It is the only nonrectangular country flag.

Back in India. In the evening I reached Darjeeling, here I didn’t had any contact of Rotary or Rotaract member so I enquired about the Youth Hostel. It was not very far, first time in the whole expedition I was searching for the Youth Hostel for the accommodation. I got a bed in the Dormitory, but it was as good as single room, no doubt it consisted of almost 20 Beddings but nobody was staying, I was alone. It was around 4 O’clock. I was wet even my rucksack, so I arranged the things and kept for drying. Rest of the day I spent time with a female foreigner, who was staying in Ladies Dormatory and was not feeling well, she told me that she was suffering from fever. I did helped her by providing a good medicine that I used to carry for fever. She was from Holland and was just 25 years old. She was alone and traveled first to Nepal and now in India. Her name was Cristina. We enjoyed watching Television and chatting in the entertainment hall. It was really nice to talk about our country as well as to know about other countries. We went out for the dinner, she was very much interested in my expedition and was talking always about the expedition. So I was back again in India, in the morning, when I came out for the exercise Wowwwwwwwwww what a beauty it was beauty of nature. It was great scene one could see the range of beautiful mountains and deep-deep valley’s. It was amazing. Even Cristina was seating on a chair and thanked me for the medicine. She was looking fresh. After bath I moved out in search of Rotary Club Member and got the success in finding one Rotarian Lee Pradhan (Principal of Comila School) who was not there but came to know he would meet the next day. On the second day I Met Rotarian Lee Pradhan, who was the Rotary member for 15 years and now he was a very busy person, I explained him in short and requested to help for the speech in schools. I delivered the message in his school i.e. Comila School and he realized really what work I am doing. I visited & delivered speech in India’s one of the biggest schools, St. Paul’s high School, It was great and biggest school I ever been in my expedition. I saw only in the movies but it was in reality. I came to know high standard, means rich students study in that school. It was a residential School. It was just a great school. After the speech here Mr. Dwiwedi announced amongst students to give their parent’s address to me to get help in other countries, as many students were from Bhutan and Bangladesh that I would be going next. I never expected such a great response from all. I got few names with the address. Rotarian S. Chakravorthy was very impressed and immediately called up Rotarian Uday Mani pradhan. He invited for the Rotary meet on 03/05/99. Even he asked me to have food in his hotel “Hotel Spring burn” till I am in Darjeeling. It was one of the unforgettable and great experiences. In Darjeeling I was visiting many schools, every day. Turn Bull High School, Green Lawns School, St. Joseph, St. Michel and Mount Harmoney Schools. The response was as usual, very good from the students and teachers. I gave one photo film for developing and printing at Das Photo Studio and requested for concession, as I used to do at every place. Sometimes I used to get some concession, sometimes free and sometimes with full payment. The owner was an old man he asked me to come next day and told me that he would tell how much I would pay. Next day when I went to Das photo studio, the old man saw my photographs and didn’t charge any thing. I was interviewed by News Paper reporters & Cable television reporter too. In Darjeeling every day I had lunch and dinner in Spring Burn Hotel, of Rotarian S. Chakravorthy. During my stay here in Darjeeling I came across a very good book “Future of a person” I got to learn a lot and got lot of suggestions and indication for the self improvement. I would suggest readers to find this book for self-improvement. In the evening I joined Rotary Meeting, it was the unforgettable meeting with the Darjeeling Rotarians, I got the warm welcome by all the Rotarians. I was the speaker for the day. The club members were so enthusiastic, they supported me financially and even Rotarian Uday Mani Pradhan told me that he would send few of his friends name with address to contact them in Bhutan. I had dinner in the same hotel. Darjeeling lies on a series of terraces on a ridge in the foothills of the Himalaya. It stands at about 2,160 metres above sea level. The high altitude makes the city cool and pleasant throughout the year, with average temperatures ranging from 4 °C in January to 17 °C in July. The city has a high average annual rainfall of more than 300 centimetres. Most of the rainfall occurs in the summer, especially between June and September, when mists and clouds often shroud Darjeeling and the surrounding areas. People who live in the Indian lowlands seek relief from the heat by staying at one of Darjeeling's resort hotels in September and October. In the mostly dry winter months, visitors to Darjeeling enjoy superb views of green valleys and snowcapped peaks. Mount Kanchenjunga can be seen from the city. Mount Everest is visible from just outside the city. The well-known Darjeeling tea grows on hillsides near the city. A small, narrow-gauge railway climbs to the city from the plains over steep slopes and through tea plantations and forests of teak. A wide square serves as an open-air bazaar for trading. The British made Darjeeling the summer capital of the Bengal region in the 1800's. After Darjeeling it took me almost 10 days to reach border or Bhutan I went to Kurseong just 35 Km and then to Siliguri (40 Km) by using lot of short cuts. In Siliguri I went to North Bengal clinic to get help from Rotarian Salil Dutta, as Rotarian Uday mani Pradhan mailed him about me. He asked me to wait at the Rotary hall It was 5 O’clock so I waited for two hours, as the meeting was at 7 p.m. The Rotarians got happy that on Environment day (5th June) they got to listen something on environment. There I stayed in the Rotary hall itself On the way also I took many stoppages and stayed in the asylums. On 14th June It was raining again but I didn’t stop my regular routine. I reached Jaigaon i.e. India and Bhutan Border. I could see the Hills, which is the sign of Bhutan. I contacted Mr. Goel (Father of a student who was studying in Darjeeling, where many students have given me their parents contact numbers to get the HELP) Mr. Goel was already aware about my Expedition, his son explained him when he was at home during the vacation. He made accommodation in an asylum in Dormitory. It was little cold out there.

BHUTAN Phuntsholing is the name of the city (Bhutan). Today the first important work was to get a separate room, because I could not leave my luggage in dormitory. I ran behind the manager and at last at 10.00 I got a separate room. There was a huge gate at the entrance; there were Bhutia Police checking each and everyone’s I-card. I have seen the uniform of Bhutia people (Indians call them as Bhutia). They wear a big coat (it is similarly like a night suit) it is folded from the knee to up word and is compulsory for all Bhutan male citizens. I showed my passport, Police checked up my baggage, enquired for what purpose I want to go in and then only they allowed me to enter. So it was BHUTAN and you could make out the difference of two countries by looking at these two border towns. This country is surrounded by all hills and even it is situated on hills only. From time to time I passed stalls displaying all sorts of delicacies-sweets, white bread and what not. I feel of having something, it was not expensive. At Noon I visited PHUENTSHOLING PRIMARY SCHOOL contacted concern teacher, who took me to the principal. Here this principal asked me one question, will you be asking for money to deliver your speech? I said no madam; I have something to give i.e. Posters, and stickers. She asked me to come on 16th June 99 at 7.30 a.m. Later I visited Office of the Indian Embassy. Here I met Mr. Pandit, who was from Maharashtra. He gave me a letter by which getting pass would be easy task. Mr. Pandit asked me to give the list of places, where all I want to go in Bhutan. I got the Form from him not only that but also he gave me few of his known friends name contact details, who can help me in Bhutan. At first I contacted Mr. Ajay Sharma, who runs one of the big and the best hotel in PHUENTSHOLING, when he saw my photographs, he got so happy and excited that he asked me to come and stay in his hotel. He called up few of his staff members, introduced me and ordered to take care of me till I am in the hotel. He has provided Free FOOD and ACCOMODATION. He was really a kind-hearted person. I went back to the asylum, packed my rucksack and moved into his hotel. I got the best room with all the facilities in it. For dinner I got a special tasty dish of nettle spinach, I had very good and hygienic food like you get in five star hotels. 1st Day So coming in this hotel means I was in Bhutan. The next day, I got up much early did exercise, took bath and moved towards the PHUENTSHOLING Primary School as the principal asked me to come at 7.30 a.m. I reached there on time, teacher and Principal welcomed me. During assembly time where whole school students were standing in front of me, everyone was looking at me as soon as they finished prayer and National Anthem, One of the teachers introduced me to the students and then he handed over the mike to me. I had a nice time in new country with new people but everything was same. There was Curiosity to know more about my Expedition. On students face the same marks were of Surprise, Shock and what not. Everything was similar, as it was in other schools. I distributed Posters and Stickers. Whenever they will look at those Posters and Stickers they will remember my talk and me. That was the motto behind distributing Posters and Stickers (every time I got it from WWF Offices, Now I will get it again in Thimphu in WWF office) Teachers and Principal requested for a cup of rancid butter-tea with them. In Bhutan one thing was good that the medium of study was in English language where as Bhutan has their local language call Zongkha, which I found very difficult to learn. There was no necessity to learn Zongkha language because mostly everyone used to understand English. Bhutan itself does not have enough scope for the students to go for job so the King of Bhutan has made education in English. So the students will not have problem with the language if they want to work in India. The Currency of Bhutan is ngultrum (nu) and One ngultrum was equals to One Indian rupee. I came back to the hotel had delicious parotha’s in the breakfast. Whole staff was enquiring about the school talk, how was it, what did I talk to the school student etc. Later I visited PHUENTSHOLING High School. Now there was not much difficulty to take the permission because I already had a talk in PHUENTSHOLING Primary School. Here Principal was female and she also asked me the same question whether I will ask for money after the speech? When I said no she permitted and asked to come next day i.e. on 17th June again at the assembly time at 7.30 a.m. At around 11 O’clock I visited Bhutan immigration office to get the Pass (Permit) to enter Bhutan. (Actually Indians does not require Visa to enter Bhutan, Only a permit has to be taken which will be valid for the given time. For other country people, other than India, Bhutan’s Visa fee was too high and that was the reason you hardly get to see any foreigner even though Bhutan has gift of Natural beauty.) I had to convince a lot to the immigration officer, even after carrying a letter from Indian Consulate. The officer asked me to give the names of the villages or places where I will spend nights. Last night I studied the map of Bhutan and there was only one route through I could travel. On that way whichever villages were I gave him those names. After showing all the documents and News Paper Cuttings, the officer asked me to come the next day, because he said he must have permission from Thimphu. It is very difficult to issue a permit he gave me number of reasons like there are problems going on in the villages. Villagers might trouble they might try to rob. On the way there is very low or equal to no habitation. You will face food problem. Bhutan roads are through forest and there are wild animals mostly bears. If any thing goes wrong who will be responsible. I immediately moved to visit Indian Consulate Mr. Pandit, explained him and requested to talk to those Immigration Officers as they were hesitating to issue the permit. I was little worried. 2nd Day The second visit on the second day in Bhutan and the visit were in PHUENTSHOLING High School. I reached school in time where Principal welcomed me. There it was exactly a repetition of everything what had happened in PHUENTSHOLING Primary School Yesterday when I was there I saw a World Map Book that was in much more detail than one I was having with me. So after the speech I requested the Principal if she could exchange it for me. One important thing I have noticed here that there were many Indian teachers in this school mostly Keralites. They were very happy and praised me a lot. Some one from their own mother land has come to talk about preservation and that too on foot. Later I went to the Immigration Office with doubt whether I will get the permit or not. The Bhutan Law is very strict. Met the Officer, he was ready with the permit. I got the permit only for 15 days to spend in Bhutan. The pass was valid only up to THIMPHU that was 175 kilometers. If I want to travel beyond Thimphu I will have to get the extension from Thimphu itself. Another problem, the officer permitted me to travel in Bhutan on one condition that I should not walk. I requested and said that my Expedition itself is on foot. But the Officer refused. I said ok, got the permit and moved. Again I visited Mr. Pandit (Indian Consulate) he said do not worry you carry on your mission and he issued me another letter that stated, “For any clarification please contact Mr. Pandit.” I searched for Internet and got in an office on request. When I opened my account I was really shocked. There was mail from Deborah Denhardt (WWF-International) that she would be leaving WWF and Mr. Steven Drayton would take over. She was the only ray of hope for the success of this mission. I didn’t know whether Mr Steven Drayton has any idea about my expedition or not. I mailed her back and requested her to tell Mr. Drayton to help me. I got few photocopies of News Paper cuttings and photographs that I packed in an envelope and posted at WWF-International, Switzerland address to Steven Drayton. I was not at all afraid but there was need to know more about the area, people, route and everything that will not trouble me. I was happy to get the permit. In the evening I went to bring those 14 Photographs, I had given yesterday for printing. When the owner Mr. Raj saw those photos, he enquired more about my Expedition and later he said, “you do not have to pay for this.” I thanked him and moved back to the hotel where Mr. Ajay Sharma owner of the Central Hotel said that he has called up few renowned people of PHUENTSHOLING to meet me, so be in the hotel in the morning. I had dinner, wrote Thank You letters to my supporters and slept at 11.00 p.m. The hotel staff was taking lot of care of mine even Mr. Sharma was helping me a lot 4th Day After spending enough time in Phunentsholing, I moved ahead, but hotel staff prepared breakfast for me much early than the scheduled time. They all were very nice and kind. I used to get such people so I never found myself boarded. I always got the motivation to continue the mission. This was the rainy season in Bhutan as well as in India too. Hotel staff has given me a small pack of SALT for LEECHES. Leech is like a warm, which stick on to your body and suck the blood. You cannot remove them easily, so the best way to remove them, pour salt. Leeches will come out automatically. These people scared me a lot talking about the bears. Everywhere trees, full of green. It was the first day of my walk in Bhutan. The scenery was unforgettable. You can see amazing beauty of Nature. The wide plains were diversified by stretches of hilly country with low passes. All mountains are covered with the green trees. It looks so beautiful. Just after 3 Km Walk, I got the immigration check post. Whole staff was looking at me with the curiosity while walking because the office was situated on the small hill. I knew Mr. Pandit told me what to do with these people. I explained them that I am just doing practice for the base camp as well as I am studying environment of Bhutan. So I will be walking just for 10-15 km and will get into the Bus. They asked me to take out everything from the Sack to check. I did accordingly, when they were satisfied then only they allowed me to go. First 5 km I didn’t find loneliness but later road, trees and a narrow path. This is the busiest road of Bhutan so I used to get Car’s, Buses, Trucks and Motorcycles. But after some time got a heavy rain just for 15 to 20 minutes but I enjoyed walking even in the rain, thanks to the Umbrella. At a point from where I could see India, I spent 15 minutes took Photographs. I carried a pack of Chinese Noodle, which can be eaten without cook. It was afternoon but I didn’t get even a small shop or Hotel where I can seat and have food. No food stalls at all, on the way. Whatever I carried with me I had it at the side of the road. I got first thrilling experience in Bhutan on very first day. There was a road going up on the hill. The situation was like if I am standing on the road exactly on the top just 75-100 meters (it was a landslide portion) the same road was passing. But to reach there I would have had to walk about 2 km. I thought, if I could climb the distance of 75-100 meters I could save 2 km of walk. So I decided and successfully climbed up. It was difficult off course carrying 25kg rucksack with Umbrella in one hand and a water bottle in other. Travelers used to look at me, some times I was scared but when I reached on the top I was very happy for successful achievement. Similarly I was thinking about another top. It was almost 4 O’clock, I started climbing, but this time I fall in a very big trouble. The previous part of the hill was much inclined not straight, this part was also landslide part but this was much damaged. At the end after successful climbing of about 75% there was plane portion almost of 90-degree angle. When I looked down I was very scared, I knew I got stuck, was not able to move up and thinking of going down was just impossible due to damaged Landslide portion. I got more scared when I used to see on the top of the road. I could see the tires of the Trucks and Buses. It feels like the stones will fall on me or truck will come down. I was very much scared and was calling God and Mother to help me. I was cursing myself for climbing it was such a difficult position that I was not able to move. I tried to search different ways to come out of that but all in vain. At last one Truck person saw me from the road, which was down. I shouted and showed him hand. It was just impossible to tell him anything from the top. But I made him understand that I got stuck and please help me. When he came up at the top of the road, he stopped. He was an Indian a small tiny person with thick beard. First he shouted on me and then asked me to tie the rucksack to the chain. He was having a big iron chain. I did it accordingly. I threw water bottle and Umbrella already. Again he asked me to hold the chain and pulled me up. He shouted and enquired about me. I explained him in detail. It was getting dark I was already 30km away from PHUENTSHOLING I enquired about the presence of any village nearby. He told me that there is no village GEDU for at least 15km more. I requested him if he can drop me up to the village. He asked me to seat in his truck and dropped me. I thanked him a lot. Now I had to go in search of accommodation. First I visited Police station got the sign and signature on my Record Book, It was the toughest job to take the sign and stamp from these Police. I enquired about the Hotel but after lot of search I couldn’t get place to stay in the hotel. There was a guesthouse of TALA HYDROULIC PROJECT. There were many Indians working for that project. So I got a small room to spend the night. Here the situation was not good. It was very cold place. I couldn’t take bath. I had dinner i.e. rice and noodles, I had fruits also in the small hotel, came back and slept. 5th Day Next day on the walk it was still cold but the weather was encouraging. I did exercise packed my rucksack paid for the guesthouse, had break fast, bought 2-3 Packs of Chinese Noodles, bread and moved towards TSHIMALKHA. This route was more beautiful or may be the loveliest spot on the earth. One side you have mountains it fasted my eyes on the indescribably beautiful pictures of this tremendous mountain and other side you could see deep valleys. Number of beautiful waterfalls full greenery and everything was like a heaven. This route was much more scary, because of noisy waterfall and no habitation on the way. Today also I got a very heavy rain and which lasted for 3-4 hours. The problem in Bhutan is Landslide there were many occasions I came across the landslide part. Two places I got tent and few people with the crane does work of removing mud and stone to clear the highway. I spent an hour in that tent had food and moved ahead. In the evening I had to hitchhike to reach Chukha (Tshimalkha). There was a guesthouse after 20 minutes walk I reached at the guesthouse, spoke to the Manager and got a very good room for Rs.100. This place was much more colder than Gedu. This guesthouse was having a heater to keep the room warm, hot water, food and all comfort. It was like a hotel. Only thing is it’s in the village, in such a cold place. I was very much tired; I took bath, had dinner and slept early. 6th Day Today was the sixth day and it was very cold but pleasant morning. Temperature was touching 5-6 degree. But I continued my routine and regular programme. I did exercise and visited Chukha High School, Tshimalakha. I got the permission to talk during assembly time. Today’s speech satisfied me a lot. I myself found the speech was very powerful. The students and teachers were standing for more than half an hour to listen to me. I could see the motivation amongst the students. I spent lot of time with the students. It was a small village but crowded, because of the district town. This village is called as Dzongkhag (many villages comes under one district is called as Dzongkhag and Dzongdag is the post of chief/head of the district like In India Collector) Chukha really deserved to be called a village. It contains about more than 500 houses grouped about a monastery and round the village were cultivated fields. The village was situated in the Valley; it was covered with the fog early morning. Small children’s were seating on the roof of the houses for study as well as for sunbath. This village was having an Office of the Hydro Power Corporation and Office of the Dzongkhag. There was a small market where you can buy everything off course little expensive as compare to PHUENTSHOLING I tried to buy one sweater but it was too expensive. I was having an overcoat that was preventing me from cold as well as from rain. In the afternoon I had lunch and took bath in the afternoon, washed few clothes spent time with the villagers enquiring about the problems they face. From the guesthouse you could see the beauty of nature. It really deserves the appellation. I shall never cease thinking of this place with yearning, and if I can choose where to pass evening of my life, it will be in Chukha. There I would build myself a house and have one of the rushing mountain streams running through my garden, in which every kind of fruit would grow. 7th Day Next day I scheduled to take rest in Paro another Dzongkhag and tourist place. I packed my rucksack, had breakfast and started walk. When I reached on the highway, I was very scared. I could hardly see anything of 10 feet surrounding. The Manager of the guesthouse said that, it is very risky and dangerous to walk in fog. I might get to see bear the only animal can be seen on the road. I stopped at a place where for around 50 meters behind I could see but 20 meters ahead it was full dark, full of fog. I got stuck neither I dared to turn back nor I could go ahead, such situation was it. So I decided to wait for someone to come from other side so that I could walk along. Now when I think about the situation, I laugh on myself. Actually when I waited, I didn’t have any kind of weapon except for a lighter (not for smoking but for emergency). I collected few stones thinking if any animal comes or any thing happens I can light my jacket and use stones for prevention from the attack. There was one more reason of fear, noisy water fall running just 50 meters ahead. People have said bear comes out to drink water. I was alone standing in the mid of forest. I saw many vehicles crossing me and tried to stop them but no one stopped. After 15-20 minutes of waiting I saw a villager with a stick in one and grass cutter in other hand coming from other side. I got relief that there is no danger, I enquired about the fog conditions ahead. He was not so good in English but then I conveyed the message in broken language with the help of body language. Mostly where I face language problem, I simply use body language, which was effective tool. When I got the confidence I moved ahead. Later I got trucks, buses and cars on the way but no habitation. At the same time I saw two girls of around 16-17 years of age going the same way. They were Schoolgirls, so no language problem. I explained them, why I was waiting. They started laughing on me. They said never mind you can walk with us we are going for more 3 km. had a nice walk with the girls for 3 km. I got the chance to know the feelings of these girls. I came to know that the Bhutia law is very strict; if any one breaks it, severe punishment. Girls hate to wear their traditional or national dress. They do not have freedom. They cannot wear anything else. They were telling, when they go to PHUENTSHOLING they wear whatever they like. On the way they showed me a house at the top of the hill. It was a jail where prisoner won’t get anything untill death. They even told me if any one does murder, Police used to cut their hand put the murderer in a rucksack and push from the top of the hill. They told 20-30 years before when there were no police. Evildoers were publicly sentenced. The punishments were pretty drastic but they seem to suit the mentality of the population. They told there was a man who had stolen jewelry from one of the official’s home in their village. He was convicted of the offence, and what we would think an inhuman sentence carried out. His hands were publicly cut off and he was then thrown in to the valley for vultures. But now the King and people have become more kind or lenient. I loved their company we didn’t know when we crossed 3 km. On this walk I crossed 8,000 feet altitude mark. By evening I reached at the junction where one road goes to Paro and other to Thimphu. Just 6-7 km before the Paro Main Town, I saw camp of Indian army. Met Col. Banerjee there, who helped me for food and accommodation. Everyone in the camp was impressed and praising about the work that I was doing. 8th Day Great time I was spending in Bhutan morning when I got up, I did exercise at the bank of river. River Paro was running exactly opposite to the camp. This was another Dzongkhag (city), situated in the valley. This is known to be one of the best and beautiful cities in Bhutan. I came to know more about the camp, this is not an army camp. It is known as GREF (General Reserve Engineering Force) it is the division of Army, but takes care of Road Construction, clearing Land Slide and bridge construction in Bhutan. This is run and paid by Indian govt. Staff comes here for minimum 3 years deputation where they get more pay than in India. I was lucky to witness the celebration of one of the festivals in Bhutan. I saw many people were walking in the line. Each house I could see fresh –cut pine-trees decked out with flags were stuck on the roofs religious texts were solemnly recited and tsampa offered to the gods. The people bring an offering of butter to the temples and soon the huge copper cauldrons are overflowing. White silk veils are draped round the gilded statues as a special mark of respect, and the worshippers reverently lay their foreheads against them. Rich or poor, all come full of devotion and with no inner misgivings, to lay their offerings before the gods and to pray for their blessing. Young boys were playing a kind of game like bowl game. Whole City was decorated with the Flags. I visited the newly built Paro Airport. I was having food at the officer’s mess where the food was cooked nicely and you get to eat variety of food. But for junior level the food is really not good uncooked and not at all good meal. Mr. Pawar, Has invited me for dinner at his home, where he showed me his beautiful sketches and his wish was to have exhibition of his sketches. 9th Day GREF staff was respecting me a lot and everyone used to feel proud. But here first time in Bhutan School principal has refused and didn’t allowed me to talk. He asked me to get permission from the Dzongdag (Chief/head). Even after convincing a lot and giving the reference of earlier schools, still the principal was firm on her decision. At last I had to go to Dzongdag office for the letter. It was situated on the top of the hill. It was like a huge Monastery. Here I experienced the strictness of Bhutia Law. It was raining so I opened my Umbrella and walked. The security guards, standing on the gate shouted on me as soon as I entered the Office premises. I didn’t know why they were shouting. When I came closer to them, they asked me to shut the Umbrella. Even though it was raining heavily, one must shut their umbrella as soon as you enter the Office premises. I had little argument with them but who dares to go against the law. I wanted to get the work done. If I had not listened to them, they would not have allowed me to go inside. These security policemen checked my travel permit and asked me for what purpose I want to see Dzongdag, I explained them and they kept my passport to issue entry pass. When I entered the Office was on the second floor, the short doors, no lights, one can find like you are walking through caves. Here Dzongdag was Mr. Sherub Tenzin. He was very nice man; he praised me a lot for doing the work in their country. He didn’t troubled me much, he immediately asked Education Officer to come to his office and asked him to prepare letter for me. But the junior officer took more time; I got the letter after 2 hours almost. The letter was address to the principals of three schools in Paro and was stating, “Mr. Praveen Ohal a member of WWF would like to visit your school and give a talk on Environmental Expedition to the students. You are therefore, instructed to allow him to give a talk as requested. Sherub Tenzin, Dzongdagg Carrying that letter I went to the school that was 8 km from the Dzongdag Office i.e. SHABA High School (the same school, which I visited in the morning, the principal had asked me to come at 1.00 along with the letter.) I managed to reach there by 1.00, but Principal was not in the school. I waited till 1.30, She came back, I showed the letter, and then she arranged speech in a big Hall. I got the students of 7th class onwards. It was 2.30 p.m. by that time, I missed the lunch too. This was more interactive speech. I spent almost an hour with them. It was 4.00 p.m. when I came back. The caring, Mess staff, kept the lunch aside for me. I had it and spent evening to know more about the City. 10th Day I was getting very good sleep so today I got up little let, but moved out at 7.30 to Paro High school, it was 6 km from the GREF. There were many Indian teachers in this school, they praised a lot and encouraged me. Then I visited Paro Jr. School too. 11th Day On 26th June I packed my rucksack, thanked everyone in the GREF, all wished me best luck. Officer asked me to go in their truck until the bridge. A truck was going towards the Bridge or Junction (road goes to Thimphu) I got down at the junction and started walk. It was the rainy day again, in such country where you have a pleasant atmosphere even in rainy season you enjoy a lot. Thimphu was just 35 km away from the junction, river flows along the road, but through valley, you get to see Giant Mountains. You enjoy the beauty of nature, if you are traveling on bicycle or Motorbike or on foot like me. When people used to see me walking in the rain, carrying such a heavy rucksack, must have said, what a crazy boy he is. Thimphu is situated in a widespread valley at the bank of river. This city is know as city of Clouds and is on 10,000 feet high. I could see the Palace of king from the top. I was still 3-4 km away from the city. I found this capital as a small-developed town in India. You do not feel like you have come to any country’s capital. The sky was clear and atmosphere was more pleasant. In Thimphu I got a cheap hotel with the help of Mr. Singh, friend of Sandip Agarwal of Phunentsholing. I got a small room with no ventilation. I was really tired. The bottom part of the rucksack was wet, even few of the things got wet, so kept them for drying. First three nights I had a lot of problems because of suffocating atmosphere in the room and problem with the bugs. I could sleep hardly for three hours each night. Later I shifted in other room. In Thimphu there was a very big Army camp, IMTRAT (Military Training Centre of India) Here O.C. Maj. Patil has helped me for food until my stay in Thimphu. Here also I experienced the difference between Officers Mess (Canteen) and ordinary Mess. I got few medicines and Electrol packets from the IMTRAT hospital on my request. In Thimphu I got the extension & Travel permit to the restricted area for which India House helped me. The officers provided me detailed map of Bhutan and explained me as much as they can for the safety purpose, like there is very low habitation on the route I would walk, the roads are not busy as Thimphu- Phuentsholing, the distance between two villages are about 60-80 km, etc etc. In this connection I got to visit the ministry of External affairs of Royal Bhutan Govt. Health and Education Minister’s wife Rinchen who was a friend of Rotarian Uday Mani Pradhan-Darjeeling. It was told to me that her husband is the brother in law of the King. She helped me to get the letter, which allows me to visit schools & present speech without any restriction. I wanted to develop and get printed my film roll. So I visited a biggest Photo Shoppe, the rates were almost double than India, met the owner and requested to give concession. He gave me 50% concession that comes to 100% Indian cost. I got around 150 posters and stickers from the WWF Country Office, they helped me for the News coverage in Bhutan’s National News Paper; “KUENSELL”, It was a weekly Edition. (There was no daily edition). Here my first School visit was in Changankha Jr. School. I got the permission to deliver my talk during assembly. There were many Indian teachers, one Lady from Turkey, who was doing some study about Bhutan’s culture and many other things. There were more than 500 students. It was great talk I ever delivered with lots of emotional touch and created urge amongst students to do something to save our mother earth. The Turkish lady was so impressed She was having handy camera, she caught me in her camera since beginning of the talk. I hardly talked for 20 –25 minutes but the impact was tremendous that I noticed. The other big personalities who helped me in Thimphu are Mrs. Kezang Doma (Television & Radio Interview), Dr. Getshen helped in meeting with the Environmental Minister (All were friends of Rotarian Uday Mani Pradhan of Darjeeling). I was really lucky to meet Environmental minister. He was wearing a colorful National dress and was having a sword with him. You have to bow down to wish him. After introducing, he wished me best luck and asked his P.A. to arrange the speech with the officer’s of Ministry of Environment, so that they can carry on such kind of activities. The next day, it was 2nd July my Birth Day, it was also first time that I was going to talk with the Environmentalist. I didn’t know that Minister would ask me to talk with the High officials. We sat down in a conference room where six (four male and two female) officers joined us. When Mr. Nima Dorjee introduced me to these officials and when they saw me, I found they were not happy. Might be thinking what this small boy will teach us about environment. First they didn’t give importance to me. But when I started talk & explained them about my journey for the cause, they paid attention. My politeness touched their heart and soon they became friendly with me. I did not talk much rather I did not had much to add to their knowledge but, what & how they can help to save our mother earth by involving students. I didn’t have the same talk that I used to give in the schools, but I explained them how and on what point I talk with the students. How they can be motivated to take care of our surroundings. What way students can be influenced to do such kind of activity etc etc. Mr. Dorjee handed over an envelope where Ministry of Environment provided me financial support. I feel ashamed to say that the other country govt. supports for Indian and the Indian govt. itself does not support. Mr. Dorjee has also given me a letter to stay in NRTI (Natural Resource Training Institute) guesthouse, which comes under WANGDUE Province and that was my next stop after Thimphu. The same night at 8 pm. there was my news on Television, so I was successful delivering my message in all over Bhutan. 18th Day It was day to say goodbye to the city of clouds after spending almost a week. I moved towards NRTI (LOBESSA), which comes under WANGDUE province and it was around 70Km (that is the first village I get after Thimphu). It was very fresh and good morning for me. People walking on the street were looking at me & waving their hands. Few schoolboys and girls used to come and shake my hand. Some people used to show me their thumb to indicate their best wishes. On the way I bought the National News Paper “KUENCEL” for Nu. 8 there was my news on the front page, but it was very small news, which hardly conveys my message. For almost 3-4 Km I got to see the people but later again hills and lots of trees but the road was very busy Car’s, Buses and Trucks were running. Mostly from Car’s I used to see people showing their hand or thumb to me to wish best luck for the journey. That was my encouragement and because of that I never lost my confidence. After around 15 Km I got the check post, It was the indication point of restricted area. The Officers enquired and checked the permit. I convinced them that I am on a study tour & would get into any vehicle after few Kilometers if walk, it was of course not easy to convince them. It was really inhabitant place for kilometers and the road was through the forest. The busy road was only up to 10 Km from Thimphu, which takes the diversion. As this restricted area starts you hardly get to see any vehicle running on this road. It was just 11 O’clock, I always loved to take risk & add another experience or story to my journey. When I started, I realized it was very much scary even after half an hour walk I didn’t find any vehicle either side. The forest was very thick I was little scared because the security officers scared me by the robbery examples. It was really extreme scary walk, I continued my walk, met few villagers on the way but mostly it was lonely & scary walk. Finally I hitch-hiked & came out of the danger zone. I got down 10 km before LOBESA a village near NRTI. NRTI was 3-4 km from the village. I reached NRTI and met the Director, who was already informed by Mr. Dorjee and gave him the letter. Mr. Dorjee has done this arrangement through NEC (National Environment Commission) guestroom was ready I had to bear only food expenses. There was a maid who was staying nearby and it was hotel cum home. It was decided that I would be having food at their house. I had dinner at the maid’s house. She was having two sweet daughters they called me brother. One was studying in Tenth standard and other was in 7th.They were basically Nepali and settled there since last two generation but still vegetarian. I had a very nice vegetarian food. 19th Day This institute was situated on the top of the hill and one could enjoy the real beauty of nature. There you could see the river and either side of the river many farming fields. Here I gave speech to the NRTI students. Most of the students, teachers were aware about my expedition through television and News Paper. It was Sunday everyone was enjoying there holiday so they spent almost 2 hours with me. few students became friend very quick and played Table Tennis for an hour. In the evening when two small girls were playing Badminton I joined and later few teachers also joined. There was Environmental Workshop for the next two days i.e. on 4th (today) and 5th organized by NRTI and supported by NEC/UNDP and Green house gas project. More than 200 Education Officers and Teachers were present for this Workshop. They all were from eight different districts of western Bhutan. I have seen the gate was decorated, red carpet with the flowers on that was on the ground till the steps of the dais of the Auditorium. As soon as the car came everyone gathered near the gate to welcome the princess. I got the opportunity to see the Princess. There were three princesses and all were very beautiful. Inauguration was by the hands of elder daughter of the King. There were many big dignitaries like Environment Minister, the program officer of UNDP and Green House gas Project. They were completing their formalities according to their tradition, which does many things, and it is time consuming. Even after entering in to the Auditorium a long process goes on to show respect to the Princess and other dignitaries. A big pot was in the middle, in which there was some liquid. A Monk came with the bowl in another pot distributed to all the delegations present in the auditorium. Before that there was prayer or some words to be spoken. The small bowl has to be hidden in your coat. As the national dress have many specialties. After that another Monk comes to the pot in which the liquid is kept. He used to shake and used to do up and down exercise many times with the liquid by uttering some words or MANTRA. First it is given to the Princess and then served to rest. Every one bows to show the respect and drinks it. Then the show begins, it started at 10.00 and ended at around 2.00 such a long procedure. After lunch there was a traditional dance where everyone danced. Even all three Princesses, Environment Minister and the Foreigners too from UNDP and Green House gas Project. By 4.00 O’clock the inauguration part was over. Then little speech by the speakers in Zonkha language (which I did not attained) it continued till 6.00 and then every one was out. One of the organizers of this workshop asked me to give the speech. He said he has kept my speech at 1.00 p.m. on Tuesday i.e. next day. These people were giving me very special treatment and importance. I played Table Tennis and Badminton had dinner and slept. Today someone has stolen my WATCH, which I forgot in the bathroom. 20th Day In those days I was very much known with the teachers and their family. Today most of the time I spent with the teachers and their family. I went in the auditorium to give speech and the time has come, just before lunch break my name was announced with lot of praising. I started my speech and I was very much satisfied with this speech. It was short and sweet, it was first time in Bhutan again that I have given speech to near about 200 officials. All were very much impressed by my talk and all were praising a lot. After my speech there was lunch break and during lunch many people gathered around me and enquired about my expedition. Everyone stated me as a different and courageous person. By this time I was hero in NRTI, every student and teacher used to talk about me, whenever they see, there was lot of respect while talking to me. Everyone used to feel that they are meeting a great personality and it’s their pleasure that I am staying with them. Today I have been invited for the dinner at young teacher’s place came to know he has represented Bhutan in Tai Kwan Do event in Asian Game and he got the best fighter award. I spent whole evening with him, had a very nice dinner cooked by him we watched a movie and I slept at his house 21st Day After enjoying in NRTI, I moved ahead. Today I had to reach in TSIRANG (DAMPHU), which was around 90 Km from LOBESSA. I knew walking on this route was not easy task, it was a lonely walk On the way it is rare to find people and vehicles because of rainy days and landslide. So it was lonely and scary, but beautiful walk. I cannot stop praising the beauty of Bhutan and you really fall in love with the nature and atmosphere. I was walking through the mountains I could hardly see any house on the mountain or a hut. I was prepared for anything I might have got hardly 4-5 vehicles till Noon. Some times it was raining and I really enjoyed walk in rain. I did carried Noodles and snacks with me that I had after regular intervals. It was around 4.00 O’clock I got a vehicle and I managed to stop it. I requested the driver to drop me at DAMPHU. First he got scared but then he allowed me, must of thought, what this slim and short person could do? I realized that the driver was scared and was feeling uncomfortable. I took out the photographs. Here such a funny thing happened! When I bowed down towards the rucksack to open, the driver stopped his car. I could see the fear on his face but without wasting even a second, I took out the Photograph Album and showed him. I swear after looking at the photographs only he got the relief and started behaving friendly. Damphu was another coldest place in Bhutan. It is situated on the top of the mountain and is like a hill station. Not city or town, it’s a simple village but could be the best hill station. I got down at DAMPHU, there was a Telephone Office (I think), I met an Engineer Mr. Sangpo explained him and requested to help me to search a place for accommodation. I told him that I would pay for it. He was very nice young person of my age. He was very impress to know about me, when he went through the file (contains News Paper Cuttings) and photographs. He made many phone calls and finally he was succeeded in getting a place to stay in a school. He took me to Damphu High school. This school was situated on the hills, oh! Not only school but the village itself. It had many small hills & one can find houses like colonies on each hill . It was cold place with full of trees. Principal was waiting for us. Principal has already spoken to an Indian teacher Mr. Kenny Raj Peter, who was staying alone in teacher’s quarters. He was from Madhyapradesh. Principal introduced me to him I thanked Mr. Sangpo and principal. Mr. Kenny Raj Peter was a young and very interesting fellow. He stays alone but enjoys and finds happiness, always making jokes. He got detailed information about me while preparing dinner. This was first time in my expedition that I helped and prepared dinner. Both we had dinner together and slept. 22nd Day I got place to stay in the school itself so there was no doubt that anyone would refuse me to talk with the students. After breakfast I walked with teacher Mr. Kenny Raj Peter. The school was very big and strength of the students was also good. During assembly time Mr. Peter has introduced me to the students in a much better way (as he enquired about my expedition at last night) I got enough of time to talk to the students. After the speech many students gathered, they shook my hand and wished, many students spent very much time watching my photographs and enquiring about the expedition. Mr. Peter introduced me to an actress of Bhutan who was working in the same school. It was just impossible for me to digest the fact that an actress was staying in a small village and working in the school. I was very happy to meet her. I saw many posters of her current movie in Thimphu and many other places. When asked about her movie, came to know that it was super hit in allover Bhutan. I was very much excited, I spent lot of time with her and her kid. At Noon I cut my hairs in Bhutia style. I was looking so different I could not stop laughing when I saw myself in the mirror. In the evening Mr. Peter took me in the Market, he used to introduce me to everyone and used to ask, “did you read about him in KUENSEL?” (The news paper which comes weekly so that it reaches all over Bhutan even if it could not reach the same date of publication people buy it. There is no News Paper in Bhutan which comes out daily.) Immediately some people used to take out the News Paper and then their way of look and expressions used to change. Because of Mr. Peter almost all people of this town knew me. Even Mr. Peter used to feel proud to say that an Indian person doing something different. Mr. Peter bought four Bottles of beer and told me that we are going to have party tonight at the actress’ house. We came back and sat in the actress’ house. The dinner was ready and was served on the table. We were four Mr. Peter, the actress, her husband and I. I was shocked when I saw even the actress having a glass of beer. Later her husband told me that in Bhutan almost each female drinks the beer as a soft drink and my wife can finish two full bottles. I was really shocked again because I could drink max-to-max one glass of beer, which is more than enough for me the second glass would make me unconscious. We had nice Bhutia dinner. It was first time in Bhutan I had tasted Bhutia food of high-class people. Which is off course different from the hotel and I never got a chance to have food in upper-class people’s house. Yes I remember I had food once at NRTI at a young teacher’s house but he was male and was staying alone. What best he would cook as compare to women. That night Mr. Peter opened his heart in front of me. He used to say, “You are my younger brother.” He was looking very much depressed and wanted to tell me something. He said, “I am going to tell you something, which is very personal but still why I am opening myself to you because I know in future we might not see each other again. If I tell someone who is always with me or to whom I would see again, I would not like it because then the person will always look at me with the sympathy that I do not want.” Then he began his story. He was a teacher in a city of Madhyapradesh and there was another girl in the same school working as teacher. They both became friends and later they fall in love. Mr. Peter was in love with her deeply even she was. One day he proposed her for marriage (Mr. Peter and her family was against of this marriage because of CAST) She did not denied but she did not responded too. Both were staying in teacher’s quarters. One day Mr. Peter was nervous because he has not seen her for two days even there was no contact in between them. He went to her room and knocked but she didn’t open the door. He got reply, “please leave me alone for some time”. He tried a lot to convince her and to tell in what problem she was. But she repeatedly replied the same. Mr. Peter was not in a position to think at all what to do. He could not sleep the whole night. Next day he came back early morning and knocked the door. This time again she replied the same. He got angry and said if you do not open, I will break this door. I want to see you, want to know what problem you are facing. She was crying and requested that she cannot open the door. At last after lot of efforts of Mr. Peter, she opened the door. She hugged him and cried a lot. Then she showed him her hands. He found himself in deep dark and was shocked. He saw the hands were burned till shoulders. He controlled himself and asked about it. She said, “I do not know but there is no cure for this infection” it happens at least once in a year where it looks like burned hand and it lasts for at least a week. Because of this she was worried thinking when Mr. Peter would know about it, he would refuse, so she did not want to marry. Mr. Peter said, “even then I would marry.” The only other problem was Cast. Mr. Peter’s family was not allowing him to get married to her, so he left the state & came in Bhutan, he says I will see how long my family opposes for this marriage. Now it was almost a year they have not seen each other as he came here in Bhutan but still they write letters to each other. I prayed for they’re meeting and even cursed for cast-ism in love. Each God teaches that LOVE is GOD. Why people do not see many orphans, how they lead their lives, they do not know which cast they belong to then what happens with that orphan. Is god punishes’ them? Sometime orphan gets adopted in an upper cast family then how do people define the upper and lower cast. In India many educated people steel believe in cast-ism & they try to search a bride or groom of the same cast, does not matter whether the love couple destroys their lives. Actually what difference the lower cast people have than the upper cast. I believe peace and love should be cast. It was really panic to know about Mr. Raj & his suffering because of cast-ism. 23rd Day (24-25th Day) On 8th July I packed my sack & kept everything ready to move to the next destination, I was putting my shoes, my big toe got bitten by a scorpion, I screamed and called Mr. Peter, he ran and after preliminary precautions, I’ve got serum treatment. It was a very traditional scorpion, lurking in my boot and I’ve never seen anything quite so horrifying. The sooner the better I wake up to the fact that I’m now in the mountains and accordingly I’d no idea the creatures were so enormous. My picture was of some thing about the size of a black beetle but this brute was as big as an adult mouse. I’ve decided that even the fattest and hairiest spider would be companionable in comparison. Whole day was spent nursing my foot with Brahms to soothe the nerves. The actress took lot of care and prepared very good Bhutia food for me with lots of vegetable and meat too. I had to spend two days with the beautiful Peoples Company. I was really lucky that I was with very good, kind and caring people’s hand. They all did a lot for me Mr. Peter took care of mine as if I am his brother. But life was becoming dangerous! First day I was hardly out of bed whole day. Even a hornet stung me on the neck, but evidently the scorpion serum was still operating, as there were no ill effects from the immediate pain. Second day I felt little better but was painful. When I decided to move ahead on the third day, the local doctor forced me to spend one more day to see any ill effects. Even after forcing a lot everybody even Mr. Peter was not ready to leave me. Unwantedly I spend one more day there. In total I spent Five days. 26th Day It was Sixth day since I came to Damphu. Mr. Peter got up much early for me the next morning. He kept maize for cooking. I carried 4 pieces of Maize he prepared mutter too. I had bread-butter with omelet and a glass of milk at another teacher’s place, that family was also Indian. In six days I was like a part of everyone’s family. Everyday one or other teacher used to call for lunch and dinner. I was highly obliged to all of them at the time of leaving I met all families and thanked a lot to them as well as to Mr. Peter for doing a lot for me. So at last after lot of rest and enough enjoyment by the grace of Scorpion, I moved ahead to the next destination i.e. Sarpang. I got the details of Major Passang for getting help in Sarpang (father of one of the students of Damphu High School). At last I started walk, I did not crossed even a Km also, Police stopped me. It was raining and during rain I used to cover my rucksack with my Jacket (Raincoat) and for my protection my favorite umbrella was with me. Police asked me, “What is it in this bag and where are you going?” I explained him and requested to leave me. But he was not ready to leave me unless he checks the bag and travel permit. So I had to take out travel permit and showed him an album of photographs. No body stopped me ever in my expedition after looking at the photographs. This Police also allowed me to go. Today’s walk was again a dangerous it was terrific. Thick forest no habitation the road was through the mountains and the mountains were little tilted means while walking I could see the top portion of the hill exactly on the top of my head. In Bhutan many places I have crossed the landslide sites and on this rout also few places I crossed it. The atmosphere was not only foggy with heavy rain and wind but also noisy because of waterfalls. It was whether because of the peculiar configuration of the mountains here, or because it was on more manifestation of freakish weather, this wind blew with a force, such as I had never previously encountered. Already it was inhabitant area and situation like that used to make me scare a lot. I stopped some time as the wind blew with a tremendous force. But I used to pray and call my mother and god to help and to save me from such dangerous scary place. One thing was good, I met few people after an hour or more on such dangerous and lonely way but no one troubled me. I would like to highlight a thrilling experience on this route, if anyone thinks walking is bed of roses, think again. I had to encounter a 150-ft waterfall, which blocked my path. There were many turns as the road was through the hills. I came across a waterfall that was falling exactly on the road, means it was covering full road and other side a deep valley. I could not dare to cross it so I decided to stop and get the help of any vehicle. I waited for more than half an hour, but no vehicle was seen. I was too scared standing in cold, rainy and dangerous place. Suddenly I saw a young schoolgirl of around 16-17 yrs of age passed through the waterfall by holding her umbrella tightly. She did it. I was scared but when I saw that girl’s courage. I said myself, I am doing an adventure when this girl can cross the waterfall why can’t I. So I hold my breath called my mother and crossed the waterfall the same way by holding my umbrella tightly. I got very happy for successful crossing and never looked back again. But in this run I lost my jacket that fallen because of the force of waterfall and my rucksack got wet. It was just 3 O’clock, but due to thick forest, it seemed like 6 O’clock of the evening. There was no village or place near by where I could have taken stop, so I decided to hitchhike. It was real difficulty in getting hitchhike on this route. First you don’t get to see any vehicle atleast for half an hour & if it didn’t stops then the real trouble you find everywhere. After trying for an hour, I succeeded. I reached Sarpang in the evening and went to the Army camp. When I was allowed to go inside the campus, I saw many officers were playing football even Major Passang was playing. I met Major Passang & gave the reference of his son studying in Damphu. Major Passang listened to me saw my file and photographs and then called a soldier. He asked him to put me in Sarpang hotel that was the only hotel in Sarpang. I got a nice room and when I took out things out of my rucksack, found everything was wet. I kept it for drying. At night he came to see me, he was really a charming and kind man. He made me laugh many times I had beer with him. I came to know that his wife is Aunty of the King, spent good time with him. He left me alone for dinner. I had a good dinner and slept I was very much tired so I had a painkiller and medicine given by the local doctor. If I would have moved one day earlier definitely I would have felt weakness & was not at good decision to move, when the Scorpio bite. One day extra rest made me strong & was not otherwise tired. 27th Day I was not feeling well, may be because of the scorpion bite and thought of spending one more day in Sarpang but the problem was with my permit that was already expired three days before. But Major Passang said he would manage, still I moved the same day to reach GELEPHU and take rest at the border. I packed my rucksack and started walk towards Gelephu. Being Saturday I thought of visiting Sarpang Junior School that was on my way to Gelephu. I met the Principal and got the permission to deliver the speech and I delivered a good speech here. The principal was so nice, he got very happy and suggested me not to take risk on this route, it is full of terrorism from Gelephu to Guwahati. Gelephu was just 30 Km. the road was good no more hills but plane surface. It was Sunny day and very good weather. I might have come just 10-15 Km. Saw the road was blocked because of water. There was a river but it took diversion because of force and the road got washed away. Few vehicles tried to cross the damaged road & got stuck in between. There was bus standing on the other side of the road. Many people came out and tried to help the car, which got stuck. The more they were trying the more deep car was going. Almost half body of the car was below the water now. I watched the show for half an hour and then crossed the river with difficult situation. I got a company of a young man who got inspired and was going to Gelephu. He said, “it’s good I can walk with you till Gelephu.” but at Noon again rain started heavy rain. Now I was not having any jacket to protect my rucksack from rain but was having a big plastic that I used. At the same time I was feeling uneasy and was really not able to walk. I requested the young friend to help me. We waited under the tree. after some time we got a jeep that was going to Gelephu. The remaining distance I traveled by jeep. Gelephu was just 15 Km from that place. Even I paid for it. In Gelephu I contacted Mr. M.C. Agarwal (reference given by Mr. Jacob, Second Secretary Indian Embassy, Thimphu. Even Mr. Jacob called up Mr. Agarwal in front of me to take care of mine in Gelephu). First I told him about the scorpion bite and said that I would like to take rest. Mr. M.C. Agarwal was running a cloth shop in this border town. He read my news in the News Paper also. He asked his son, Chetan to put me in a hotel. I was feeling weak, was not able to eat, was not feeling like to eat. I went to see the Doctor and he suggested taking rest for a week at least. So I had fruits mostly. Agarwal Uncle and his family helped all out. I could not forget those day’s. I spent almost Four more days in Gelephu. Later I thought rest of the time I can spend in the nearest town. It was 26th of July, it means in Bhutan I spent almost 36 days. About Bhutan Bhutan is a small, developing independent country in south-central Asia. It lies in the eastern Himalaya between India and Tibet. Bhutan is a rugged, mountainous country with great extremes of climate. Thick forests grow on the rain-drenched southern slopes of the mountains. It is extremely hot in the low foothill regions and extremely cold in the Great Himalaya. Only in the mid-Himalaya regions is the climate moderate. Almost all Bhutanese are hardy mountaineers who farm and raise stock. They live in isolated valleys, cut off from one another by mountains. Bhutan had little contact with the rest of the world until the late 1950's. Little is known of Bhutan's early history. In the 800's, Tibetan invaders conquered the Bhutia Tephoo--the country's original inhabitants--and settled Bhutan. By the early 1500's, descendants of the Tibetan invaders controlled Bhutan from a number of large dzongs located in the mid-Himalayan region. In the early 1600's, Bhutan became a separate state when a Tibetan lama took power as ruler of both religious and state affairs. In 1907, Ugyen Wangchuk, a powerful penlop (territorial lord), was chosen to administer the government. He made himself Bhutan's first king and gave the country its first effective central government. In the 1700's and 1800's, the Bhutanese raided Sikkim and part of what was then British India. These raids caused United Kingdom to take control of some of Bhutan's foreign affairs. In 1910, the British Indian government took full control of Bhutanese foreign relations, but did not interfere with Bhutan's internal government. In 1949, India agreed to handle Bhutan's foreign affairs and to help develop its economy, and later assumed responsibility for defence. Bhutan remained isolated from the rest of the world until 1959, when China claimed part of the country. Bhutan then strengthened its ties to India and began programmes to modernize its economy, educational system, and public health facilities. In 1972, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk died and was succeeded by his son, Jigme Singye Wangchuk. In 1990, the Nepali-speaking population of southern Bhutan staged huge demonstrations against the government of the north Bhutanese. Aspects of government policy thought to have caused resentment in the south include the new Citizenship Act of 1985, which was implemented retroactively (from a date in the past). The enforcement of Driglam Namzha--the traditional dress code--in the south and the removal of the Nepali language from the school curriculum are thought to have further contributed to the country's crisis. By 1993, approximately 90,000 refugees from southern Bhutan occupied camps in Nepal, Assam, and West Bengal. Population is approximately 1 Million. Bhutan's two largest ethnic groups, the Sharchops and the Ngalops, make up more than half of the population. The Ngalops are descendants of Tibetan settlers. The Sharchops' origin is uncertain, but they may have come from Tibet long ago. The two groups are sometimes known together as the Bhotes or Bhutias. About a quarter of Bhutan's people are Nepalese. Several languages are spoken in Bhutan. Dzongkha, a Tibetan dialect, is the official language. The Sharchops and the Ngalops practise Buddhism, Bhutan's official religion. About 4,500 lamas (monks) in Bhutan belong to the Red Hat Order of Lamas. They perform Buddhist rituals, treat illnesses, and teach sacred doctrine. They live in fortified monasteries called dzongs, which have chapels, offices, and teaching centres. Most of Bhutan's Nepalese practise Hinduism. Bhutan's Hindus live in compact villages along the Indian border. They build rectangular houses of mud blocks and stones. They build on high ground for protection against floods, wild animals, and snakes. People in the small villages of the mid-Himalayan valleys live in houses of oblong stone blocks that have pine-shingle roofs. The family lives upstairs and uses the ground floor as a barn. In the high, northern mountain valleys, people live in small villages surrounded by stone walls. People of Tibetan descent wear a long, loose coat made from a coloured blanket. This is gathered around the waist and hangs to the knees. About 90 per cent of the people 15 years of age and older cannot read and write. About a quarter of the children between the ages of 7 and 12 attend school. Government of Bhutan is a hereditary (inherited) monarchy headed by a powerful king. The king appoints an advisory council to assist him. He also appoints a quarter of the 130-member Tsongdu (national assembly). Village headmen elect about three-quarters of the Tsongdu members. Some members represent powerful Buddhist monasteries. The assembly's chief duty is to advise the king. Tsongdu members serve five-year terms. A dzongtap or zongda (district officer) is responsible for law and order in each of Bhutan's 15 administrative divisions. Families in each village elect a headman to a three-year term. Bhutan has no legal political parties. Currency of Bhutan is ngultrum, fixed at par with the Indian rupee, which is also legal tender (1US$=43.50). Bhutan flag is square in shape and divided diagonally into yellow and orange halves. A white dragon in the centre has a jewel in each claw.

Back in India At last I moved towards Bongaigaon that was 60 Km from the border town, Gelephu. Now I was perfectly fine with no problem at all. I was more confident while walking almost a weeks rest made me strong enough to walk easily. People said me to be careful with Boro’s and Ulfa’s (these are the two main organizations which promote terrorism in North-East part of India). But by God’s gress I was never troubled by the terrorist. In Bongaigaon, I found out the address of Rotarian P.D. Choudhury from Rotary International directory. He was working in BRPL (Bongaigaon Refinery and Petrochemicals Ltd.) and was staying in BRPL quarters. I took little time to search his house. After long time I got to stay with the Rotarians. Mrs. Choudhary was a teacher in Central School that was in the BRPL campus itself. Immediately she spoke to the principal and fixed up the speech at 8.30 a.m. on Tuesday. Mr. Choudhary also contacted Rotary Club president and he too finalized a school where I would go on Wednesday. We talked about my expedition experiences and had dinner together. I had a very good dinner, which was needed for me to get well soon. I did not wanted to make them tense, telling about the scorpion bite. I knew more two days stay here will make me more strong. I got a good bedroom but I never slept on bed because it used to give me back pain. I was habituated to sleep on my own sleeping mat on the flat surface. So wherever I am even in the five star hotels I used my own sleeping mat on the floor. Next day morning I moved out with Aunty (Mrs. Choudhary) to Central School. The school was just five minutes walk away from the house. I delivered the speech, distributed posters, stickers and in the speech itself I thanked Rotarian Mr. and Mrs. Choudhary. Principal appreciated and asked me to visit Bongaigaon Central School. It was the branch of this school. When I reached the school, I found principal had done a very good arrangement, as the other school Principal informed him. There was mike and speakers on the dais. As soon as I entered the school he welcomed me and gave such a respect, I was thanking god for making me great in these people’s eyes. I could guess what the Central School Principal might have told this principal about me as if I am an extra ordinary person or a famous personality. Here also I was rewarded with high respect. It was feeling hot there and I was sweating, so first I took bath and then had lunch. Aunty was taking care of mine like her own child. In the evening Uncle (Mr. Choudhary) showed me the BRPL Campus. Uncle and Aunty were so kind, I do not have words for them just thanking god for sending me in such a good people’s home. For dinner aunty has prepared a very special aasami dish for me. On 28th July, the next day I moved to DPS Delhi Public School. Monday Rotary Club president has fixed up with this school. I had a very good speech again in this school too. In the evening I moved with Uncle for Rotary meet in his car. All Rotarians welcomed me in their traditional aasami style. Gave me a coconut, offered a big towel or somewhat like a shawl, on my shoulders and very interesting I got an umbrella too (Mr. Choudhary has seen my umbrella that was damaged, so they bought it for me.) I laughed a lot even everyone was laughing. I shared few experiences with them. All Rotarians wished me and asked to carry on the same work. Everyone suggested me to go directly to Guwahati by train, as there was no good place in between Guwahati and Bongaigaon. One of the Rotary ann asked me to visit their house, she was very much interested in me. So I went with her after the meeting she introduced me to her children and took many photographs. She wanted to become member of WWF, so I gave her two membership forms. She dropped me back to Uncle’s house. I had dinner with Uncle and Aunty and told them that I would be going ahead the next day. Uncle and Aunty asked me to come once after expedition gets over. Aunty said, “we are used to, always calling praveen-praveen and praveen” As Uncle and aunty do not have kid, they both fall in love with me and even me too. Aunty loved me and cared me like a mother. Both used to feel like I am part of their family. I packed my rucksack done exercise and aunty prepared breakfast, I had it and even given fruits to eat on the way. She gave me many necessary things. Both were worried and suggested me not to walk this whole eastern part. They were forcing me to go by bus but then I managed to convince them that I would take bus later on. At last the time came to say goodbye. It was really difficult to say goodbye to Uncle and aunty. Both they blessed me and I moved ahead on the way to Guwahati. Guwahati was 185 Km. But I was thinking of stoppage somewhere after 60-70 Km. I came out of the town and got highway. On the way I used to have fruits given by aunty. I got a Military check post at a place in the afternoon. They behaved very strict to me, asked me to takeout everything out from the rucksack. First I showed them photographs and my file (showed letter of Ministry of External affairs) but even then the officer asked me to take everything out from the rucksack. There was no alternative, I took out everything and Officer asked his guards to check. When he found me genuine he asked me to wait here and go by bus. I said my expedition does not allow me to travel by bus or train, no money to be spent on transportation. So he said ok we will put you in a truck. Raining also started, one of the guards stopped a truck explained the driver and asked him to drop me in Guwahati only. I reached Guwahati in the evening. I was having address of one of the Rotaract member, but I could not meet him came to know from his brother that he is in Rotary Bhavan (hall). I got the address and visited Rotary Bhavan. The meeting was about to finish but then on request I got the opportunity to speak. When I explained about the expedition and purpose of visiting Rotary club, the members started their work. I have been told that I would be staying with one of the Rotaract member. I purposely did not want to write this Rotaractor’s name you will come to know reason behind it later as you go on reading. His mother and sister were out of station so I got place at his residence. He was not open always quite. He didn’t prepare much for dinner even I said, “I would help him for cooking”. He denied. Early morning I got ready to move Central School, which was near to the house of the Rotaractor I moved without breakfast but had on the way. When I tried to contact principal came to know that he was busy, Deputy commissioner was supposed to visit the school. I told a teacher that I would come later. I went to WWF office and met Senior Project Officer Mr. Avijit Roy and the director Mr. Goswami. These people appreciated and encouraged a lot. I was supposed to go to the News Paper office of the SENTINAL and The Telegraph but this WWF director called the reporter in the office itself. With in half an hour both reporters came, they took my interview and some photographs. I got a cap, T-shirt, few stickers and posters from this WWF office. In the evening I went to a Rotary Club meeting of Guwahati south delivered the speech in the meeting. I came back to the house, there were few of his friends spent some time with them. I found this Rotaractor was not at all interested in me. He was careless about my food. I had fruits and late night at 11.30 we had little rice. Slept at 12.15 p.m. I was thankful that at least he accommodated me in his house. It was the last day of the month of July and I was happy to cross almost eight months with four countries including India. Today I visited Central School again and faced similar difficulty, which I faced many times but by now I knew how to tackle this difficulty. The principal thought I would ask money after speech. I convinced him and promised. He asked me to wait for an hour he made the best arrangement in the auditorium. The auditorium was so big that 1000 students can be accommodated easily. There were thousand students gathered in auditorium. I delivered the speech to all the school students. Today I surfed the Internet and mailed my expedition program to the offices of WWF in Thailand, Laos and Vietnam with the reference of Steven Drayton (WWF- International, Switzerland) who was keeping eye on my expedition and was helping me from Switzerland. I requested these offices to help me for the VISA purpose. I did planned very well and even asked for support much early so that these offices will get time to arrange. It was fourth day in Guwahati. Today reporter of The Telegraph News Paper Mr. Anupam Nath came at 11a.m. took many photographs in various angle. In the evening I joined meet of Rotaract Club of Guwahati west. I did share my experiences to all the members spent time till 8 p.m. This club has taken a project for Kargil Fund. (It was the period where Kargil war was going on against Pakistan. and many Indian soldiers sacrificed their lives for India) They were going to call Ayesha Julka, Rajesh Khanna and few other stars of Film Industry. I wished them best luck and came back to the Rotaractors house. I packed my rucksack had dinner (half-empty stomach) and slept. Here I would like to tell about this Rotaract Member. He was the first person I met in my expedition whom I didn’t like. He was so doubtful about me he never left me alone I his house where as all the previous places wherever I stayed, spent time alone many times no one was staying behind to keep watch. There was faith and everyone used to believe. Most of the time I traveled on foot in the city to visit school and other places. Whenever I thought of taking rest either he used to go out or he used to ask me to come with him. Every day I had dinner at late night only never before 11 p.m. It was good that I was having breakfast and lunch out side in the hotel. Even he was not happy to give me dinner. His father was very nice and kind. Once he served little food that’s all I never got food second time unless uncle forces. I felt ashamed to ask him for food so I did not. I stayed 3 days with him and never got enough food in dinner. He was not happy to keep me, I felt very sorry that I stayed at his house without his wish and troubled him. I thanked that Rotaractor and uncle blessed me for the success. Today I moved out of Guwahati. On the way I surfed Internet and got very happy you won’t believe there was a mail from David of WWF-Vietnam. It was stated that WWF-Vietnam would help and even he asked me if I need any help for Cambodia. I replied and said, “Yes I would require help for Cambodia too.” After getting good news there was no limit of my joy. In the evening I reached Jorbata it was a small village on the highway and Doubt if there was any hotel. I visited Police station explained them and requested to help me finding any place for the stay at night. These police were very good. They accommodated me in their staff room. They were very excited to know more about my expedition and did not left me alone few officers were there but they spent lot of time watching my photographs and enquiring about the expedition. I had dinner in their mess and slept at 10.00 I moved early morning after thanking all the staff. The Meghalaya state border was not very far. When I was having breakfast I came to know that Whole Meghalaya is closed. One of the students Federation has called this “Bandh” (it’s a hindi word it means close) I might have walked just 15 Km I got Byrnihat Police Station. These police asked me to stop till 4 O’clock because of Bandh everything was closed, not even a single vehicle was running on the road. Police told me that just 1 Km ahead there are students sitting to stop vehicles. I had food with the Police and in the evening they stopped a vehicle and asked me to seat, the vehicle was going to Shilong. I got down at 8.30 p.m. in front of Civil Hospital. The whole road was empty, dark and scary. First I didn’t know where to go. I was having Phone number of Rotaractor Swaroop Choudhary he was aware that I would be coming to Shilong (given by Rotaractor Sujay from Guwahati) I searched for telephone booth to call him but there was nothing. When I walked little ahead in the dark found two persons were keeping eye on me. I do not know but I got the power that I could read people’s faces. I immediately turned back as I smelled danger if I carry on in the dark. I went to the Civil Hospital requested sister at the reception to allow me to call. First she denied but when I explained her in what problem I am, she allowed. I called up and told Rotaractor Swaroop that I got stuck in Civil Hospital. He replied do not go anywhere I am coming. So I waited and saw Rotaractor Swaroop and Rotaractor Vineet came to the hospital within 15 minutes. Rotaractor Swaroop told me that I would be staying with him. Aunty prepared food for both by that time I took bath and had dinner with Swaroop. I spent a day extra in Shilong. Today we were suppose to visit St. Antony’s High School during the assembly time, but could not reach in time. So at 9.30 we met Principal, these Rotaractors were having very good relations with the principal. He allowed for the speech but only for 10 minutes at 1 p.m. We said ok something is better than nothing. Along with Swaroop there were few more Rotaractors. Later we moved to a girls school St. Margaret’s High School. We spoke to the Principal and our luck was good that they were going to have a function. But because of function principal first denied and later after forcing and requesting a lot she agreed but again just for 10 minutes. All students were gathered in the school premises. I started my talk not wasting much time in introduction. I spoke for 10 minutes and said because of time constraint I won’t be able to talk much but the principal realized importance of my talk and pain taken for reaching out to the students and she asked me to carryon. Then I spent 15 minutes more. At the end Principal appreciated a lot even all these Rotaractors. Were feeling proud on me and they also appreciated my speech. At Noon we went to St. Anthanese High School and delivered the speech. Today when I surfed Internet, I got the confirmation from David (WWF-Vietnam) that he would be helping for getting visa. We had lunch and then went to Police Bazar, where most of the Rotaractors and Rotarians have their business. It is the main market of Shilong. We contacted one of the Rotarian, who asked us to come in the evening for the meeting. In the meeting I got financial support by Rotary Club of Shilong. There was a party at one of the Rotaractors house his name was Piyush. We were 6 persons. We had really very good dinner. Tonight I was supposed to stay at Amit Shah’s house. We reached his house at 10.30 where he introduced me to his family and slept at 11.30p.m. The third day was good for me. First I visited the News Paper office of Shilong times, one of the Rotary Club member was the chief editor of this News Paper. I provided all the details and photographs to him. I bought yesterdays “The Assam Tribune” and “The Telegraph” there was news about me in both these News Papers. Today I was supposed to reach DAWKI but not by walk. There were many problems in this state. All the Rotarians and reporters has strictly warned me not to walk this part i.e. Shilong to Dawki, which comes 60 Km. This 60 Km you won’t get to see any habitation (houses/people) because the road goes through the Mountains and thick forest. Part of Cherapunji (where the stormy rainfall occurs in the world) also comes on the way. The whole eastern region was declared by the govt. as terrorist region. After listening from localites even I decided not to take risk unnecessary. I took risk many times where I was confident. I carried my rucksack, thanked all the Rotaractors. and moved along with one of the known person (A man who was working with one of the Rotary Club member and was going to Dawki) every one was so nice that they cared a lot. When I saw the route from Shilong to Dawki, realized it would be difficult to walk through such inhabitant place. It is just because I read a lot about robbery, killing and always fighting in this region. In the evening we reached Dawki, here I wanted to search someone on whom I would trust who would guide me at least little about Bangladesh. I saw a Jeep of BSF (Border Security Force) luckily Company Commander was sitting in the Jeep. I explained him and requested him that I am little scared of this region so if he could help me. There was a guesthouse of PWD (Public Works Division) he asked me to walk down to the guesthouse. He arranged a room for me and asked me to be ready at 9 p.m. for dinner at his place. The room was very good, at 9 O’clock 2 Jawans (Soldiers) picked me and dropped me at Company Commanders Bungalow (House). When he saw the photographs and file, he praised a lot and told many things about Bangladesh. What I should and shouldn’t do. I spent lot of time discussing about the route and safety. We had dinner together. The 2 Jawans (Soldiers) dropped me back to the guesthouse. I slept at 11p.m.

BANGLADESH 1st Day Another great day and great moment of my life it was 6th of August 1999. My plan was to move early morning at 6 a.m. but found both sides Immigration Office opens at 10 O’clock. I was very excited and happy that I am entering Fifth country of my expedition. I had breakfast and waited for the office to open. I got custom clearance and crossed border at 10.45 a.m. I saw Company Commander on the border, he wished me and told other side (Bangladesh) Officer not to trouble me. I was feeling different when I put first step in Bangladesh. Now I would be returning India after One year and two months. It was really different feeling. I visited Bangladesh Immigration office and got the clearance at 12 in the afternoon. I was not having Bangladesh Currency with me but still I walked ahead. I was wanted to reach SYLHET today, which was 55 Km from the border. I decided to go by bus for 30 Km, which I know, cannot cover by evening it was better to cross dangerous inhabitant walk by bus. So I took bus after 2 Km walk paid Indian Rs. 20 and told him to drop me after 30 Km. After 30 Km I got down found habitant place and now no danger to walk on this way. I got to see people, houses in between and hotels too. I stopped at a place for lunch here this person cheated me because of language problem. First when I enquired about exchange of Rupee in Taka he said for 100 rupees it is 150 Taka but after lunch he calculated as 100 rupees is 105 taka only. I was not having any choice but to accept it to pay for lunch. In the evening when I reached Sylhet, I visited Rotarian M. A. Mannan’s (Ref. given by one of the Rotary Club Member from R/C of Shilong Mr. Jitlani) Office in Hotel Meherpur. The office was closed, as Friday is national holiday in Bangladesh. I phoned him and explain the purpose of visit. He accommodated me in the same hotel and asked me to see him in today Rotary Club meeting. Bangladesh is half an hour fast so it was 7 p.m. by the time I get a room. I took bath and somebody knocked the door. Rotarian Mannan has sent an office boy to take me to the meeting. But he was the foolish one took me to the wrong place and I missed the meeting. I enquired about English school if there is any and it’s timings near to the hotel. I had dinner came back and slept at 10 p.m. 2nd Day On second day in Bangladesh after breakfast I moved with the office boy to the British-Bangladesh International School. Contacted Principal, here also he denied first and later he asked me to come at 11.15 while returning back I met a person Mr. Akhlak who was in the hotel yesterday. He was there when hotel staff was enquiring about the expedition. Many people were curious to know more about the expedition. This person was very much influenced and was wanted me to come to his house. I was having free time so I moved with him. He proudly introduced me to his family member had snacks at his house. He took me to the Famous Shrine (Shah Jalaluddin Mazar) I went inside prayed on behalf of all the people, who supported me. He dropped me back to the hotel Mr. Mannan was there. When he found myself doing something great, he called few more Rotaractors. At 11 O’clock I moved with the Rotaractors to the British-Bangladesh International School. But this principal again asked me to come the next day at 8.20. I got angry that why these people do not understand value of time. Still I kept patience and said ok. What else I could do. We visited Rotarian Mazurul Haq Chowdhary got detailed and easiest route to go to DHAKA. He told us that Rotarian Ataur Rahman has gone to a function and tree plantation too at Bengali Medium School. It was a girl school Rotarian Ataur Rahman has translated the speech. I got the opportunity to plant a tree. Later we went to Rotaractor Rohan’s house for lunch. After lunch Rotaractor Maruf took me to the News Paper office where reporter was not in. We ran behind the reporter but he was very busy so I gave him details about me with two photographs. I had dinner and came back in the hotel. I was out till 11 O’clock and slept at 12. 3rd Day The first bad experience in Bangladesh Today’s day was really funny met foolish people. Rotaractor Shaukat and I visited Khajanchibari International School. We had to take permission from the President we got it but only for five minutes. He was such a stupid person, interrupted me exactly after five minutes and said enough even after listening for five minutes there was no change in him. Still I stretched it for 3 more minutes. After this school we went to British-Bangladesh International School, Principal was yet to come but wise principal allowed me to talk. After the speech Principal and director asked me to come to his office. Suddenly I found the director of the school has became strict and started enquiring. He asked for the passport, even I showed him my file too. I always faced such situation courageously when I know I am right and not doing anything bad then why to scare. The Director informed Police immediately after sometime one officer came from Intelligence bureau. He took my Passport, checked my file and asked us to come to his office. Rotaractor Shaukat was with me even he explained everything about me but still no use. I was cursing on School Director for troubling me. It was almost two hours we were in the school. We had to go to the office because my passport was with the officer. After reaching in the office he took down few Rotary Club Members name, addresses and phone numbers. He allowed us to go after an hour. I wasted almost four hours and could not visit more schools. Rotarian Mannan was already informed about the police incident and even he fired the school director too. In the evening we went to Interact Club’s function and delivered the speech in this function too. I always had dinner at 11 O’clock here the food was different only rice that to not the same which you get in India It was mota (big) rice. But food was cheap. I packed my rucksack and slept at 12. 4th Day Early morning I moved out towards MOULVI BAZAR. It was around 70 Km. and I was spending enough money for food. I had heavy breakfast and fruits on the way. Except few People others were kind and nice. Everyone used to say something in Bengali Language but I used to repeat only one sentence i.e. “Bangla jaani na” (I do not understand Bengali) I could understand little but then these people used take lot of time. Enquiring lot about me I realized that I should not talk much to these people. After walking for around 35 Km I hitchhiked till Moulvi Bazar it was 7 p.m. I was having address of Rotarian Dr. Manowar Ahmed Tarpadar. I went to his clinic, explained him and referred Rotarian Haq’s name. He called Rotarian Haq in Sylhet and enquired about me. He got the confirmation so he called one of the Rotaractor who took me at the meeting venue. I delivered speech to five Rotaract club members of the town and requested them to help me to visit few schools in this town. I came back to Dr. Tarpadar clinic he took me to his house for dinner and arranged a room in a good hotel. After dinner I went to hotel but I could not sleep my stomach was disturbed I had antibiotics and tried to sleep. I was tired but still it was I could not sleep till 2. 5th Day Got up little let, stomach was ok now, as I was not well since last two days and even did not wanted to spend much time at one place I decided to move at the nearest place. I asked Rotarian Tarpadar he suggested me to go to Shreemongal, which was just 20 Km. He gave me address of Aslam Medicine corner run by Rotarian Mohammad Rufi Amim and asked me to contact him. In the afternoon few Rotaractors came with Rotarian Tarpadar. They had fixed up “Flower K.G. School” for speech. I got the students of 7th standard they were not much acquainted to English but were acquainted to Hindi (because of Urdu subject and Urdu language is similar to Hindi). So I delivered speech in both English as well as in Hindi. First time in Bangladesh student rushed for autograph. It was really very exciting experience. All the Rotaractors wanted copies of my photograph the one, which I had with Sachin Tendulkar (A Famous Indian Cricketer) so they gave it for printing. I had lunch with Rotaractor Shyam spent some time with him and in the evening Rotaractor Shyam, Titu, Sadat, Jilul and many others took me at the bank of Manu river to show the beauty of nature in their own town. I spent very good time with these persons everyone was crazy about me and wanted me to take their house. I could visit only three persons places came back had dinner and slept. Tonight also I slept at 11.30 6th Day I moved out with my rucksack to leave for SREEMONGAL it was just 20 Km but there were few Interactors. They wanted me to drop but I said, “No I go by walk”. I enquired the way to Sreemongal, they said, “Come with us, we are going the same way”. I followed them and came to Bus Stand. I was very angry but these poor fellows didn’t understood clearly when I said that I go by walk. They might have thought that I go by walk means up to Bus Station. I explained them and then asked them to show me the way that goes to Sreemongal. They couldn’t believe, they were shocked and they repeatedly asked me. At last they showed the way and I moved ahead. After five-Km walk, I met those persons again, suddenly they came in front of me (they were on bicycle). They said we were doubtful and shocked thinking, can any one walk from India to Bangladesh? I found they were really excited and inspired. They walked with me for around two-Km and left. On the way many people used to stop and ask, in Bengali language. By now I was able to understand very much Bengali, but just to avoid them I used to repeat my regular sentence, “bangla jaani na” (I do not understand Bengali). I saw what flood was there was not much water on the road but on both sides the land was covered with the water. All crops were under the water. Many huts and houses were under the water. People were using small boats to travel. I was really excited, I know it was bad but first time I saw such flood. First time I came across flooding. I had fruits after regular intervals and reached Sreemongal by easy walk at 2 p.m. For Sreemongal I was having address of Aslam Medicine corner run by Rotarian Mohammad Rufi Amim. I went to the given address but the Medical shop was close. I waited outside of the shop at 4 p.m. Dr. Amim came, I explained him and given reference of Rotarian Tarapdar. He said ok and made arrangement of accommodation in a hotel for the night. At night I visited him again, as he was wanted to see my certificates and file. After satisfying him, I requested to give any Rotarians name and address of the next destination i.e. Hobiganj, to ask for the help. He told me to contact Rotarian Shahid Chaudhary, he didn’t give me his address but said that he is well known in Hobiganj and I would get him in Corporation. I thanked Rotarian Amim came back, had dinner and slept at 11 p.m. 7th Day Next day, I moved out much early towards HOBIGANJ. Rotarian Amim even Police told me to avoid walk from Sreemongal to Shaisteganj because on this way there were many incidents of robbery. Hobiganj was just 45-50 Km I did not wanted to travel again by bus I was on expedition and prepared to face challenge. I was determined and strong enough to survive from any problem. I understood what kinds of people are in Bangladesh. I met many bad people but I learned to tackle and manage with these people. So I moved ahead, at the same time, I took precautions also. But at last it happened, I met three bad persons, first they spoke to me in Bengali when I said I do not know Bengali then they caught me. One of them was good in Hindi as he stayed in India for long time. He asked me many questions. I behaved in the same way, the way I used to, for bad people. I pretended as if I do not have money. I convinced them that I walk for environment (Showed the banner, which shows tree) and will be going back to Calcutta from Dhaka. I told that Police helps me for food and accommodation. I showed the record book on which I used to get stamp of each police station, wherever I stayed. They tried to open my rucksack, one of them took out few things, which were not much important to me. I never scared and faced such situation with lots of confidence. One person asked me to give, if any valuables I have, I denied and said I have only this camera but by looking at my face they didn’t snatched. They were also scared because it was highway and many buses run on the highway. They were wanted me to come aside but I did not left highway and was going ahead. I was happy to loose few things than the valuables. I survived by the God’s grace always from such situations. But I was prepared for such kind of experience in expedition. Before five O’clock I wanted to be in Hobiganj, which I found not possible so I got help of vehicle 4.30 I reached Hobiganj and walked to the corporation office to meet Chairman of corporate commission Shahid Chaudhary. He was a Rotary member also. I met him in the Chairman’s cabin in Corporation, explained purpose of visit and given reference of Rotarian Dr. Amim of Sreemongal. He arranged for food and accommodation at the rest house. Rotarian Shahid contacted the president of his Club Rotarian Subhash Deb. When he came to know about me, an Indian has arrived and doing something great. He moved towards rest house and I spent some time chatting with him. He was a great person, he was a scientist discovered Photo Micrographic Camera with Slide and Micro Projector. He was running Apollo Electronic shop. He told me Rotary Club of Hobiganj has taken a project in a village “Bulla” Distribution of furniture to a school. The school furniture was washed away due to flood. Rotarian Deb asked me to spend one more day and come with them for the project. Had dinner and slept at 10.30 p.m. 8th Day On Saturday 14th August I got ready to move with them for the Project, which they have undertaken. Everyone was supposed to reach at Apollo Electronics, shop of Rotarian Deb. Chairman Rotarian Chaudhary brought his Car and there was another Jeep too. I got a comfortable seat in the Car they respected a lot and behaved with me as if I am special person. The Program was supposed to start at 10.00 but the School president himself was not there even their houses were not far. We waited for him and at last we started the program at 10.30 School president came at 11.30. I found these people does not have even courtesy that Rotary has spent almost 15,000 Taka (A store well, a teachers table and Seven benches for the students.) These people know only one language that is TAKE. They know how to take from Govt. and organization like Rotary. These people already got the material but the program was just to complete official formalities. When these people get free, they do not understand value of people. It was a small village school. Rotarian Deb introduced me to the students and asked me to give environmental speech. He said he would interpret, so I had a talk just for five minutes because everyone was seating in the sun. But Rotarian Deb had a very good talk and delivered my message. They forced me to plant a tree so I did it. After the program we came back. Remaining time I spent watching television. 9th Day 15th August and India was celebrating 52nd Independence Day and I missed my country and my people very much. I was walking towards BHAIRAB. Today’s day was bad day again. Twice some bad boys snatched my things and money. Once I was not responding to them and second time I behaved politely but still the boys snatched money from my west pouch. I did not understood how to behave with the villagers. It was second time I saw flood affected area the land was covered with the water. All crops were under the water. Many huts and houses were under the water. People were using small boats to travel. I stopped at a fruit stall and wanted to buy pineapple. He was not able to understand what I want. I made him understood by action that I want just one Pineapple where as he was selling in pairs. I told him to cut it for me. When I turned around I saw mob of 50-60 people gathered around me. Many tried to talk to me but I avoided and moved ahead. By the evening up to 6 O’clock I walked around 40 Km but Bhairab was still 30 Km away. So I had to catch vehicle to reach Bhairab. I got in to a jeep that dropped me at the Bank of Meghna River. First time in expedition I traveled by boat and crossed the river. I searched for Rotarian Sirajuddin (Reference given by Rotarian Deb) in the main market, he was having shop in the market but he was not in the shop but his son welcomed me and asked me to wait. When people came to know that I came from India many people gathered in the shop. Some of them could speak Hindi, so they started talking to me in Hindi. After waiting for long time, his son took me at the meeting venue. I got president Rotarian Indrajeet Das explained him and given reference of Rotarian Deb. He made accommodation in a good hotel. He asked me to come to his house next day for the breakfast. I told him that I would be leaving early morning so please do not take trouble. But he said you would be passing through my house so come for five minutes. I was tired so I had dinner but still the time was 11 to go to sleep. 10th Day I did not want to trouble Mr. Das and family but still I went to his house, as he forced me to come. Rotarian Indrajeet Das was a doctor he introduced me to his wife. She prepared breakfast for me much early. Both they forced me to eat so I had a very heavy breakfast thanked them took their blessings and moved ahead. Today I would be reaching NORSHINGDI it was 40 Km. I had a very nice walk whole day but in the evening I had to face the biggest problem ever faced in this expedition 3-4 drunker stopped me at a place near to the town. I knew they were drunker so I didn’t cared when they started asking questions. But suddenly one of them snatched my umbrella, pouch and cap. I felt sorry for the villagers even that nobody came forward to help me. I told them that I couldn’t speak Bengali because I am from India. Drunker persons were saying you are Bengali, so to make them cool I said yes I am Bengali. But these stupid does not want to leave me, they asked why I am not talking in Bengali? I requested them again and again to return my things even I asked people to help me but every one was laughing and passing away. They asked me to show passport if I am Indian. By now there were many young persons gathered but they also mixed with them and troubled me. I was holding my west pouch tightly in my hand but remaining portion was in the hands of drunker and he was not ready to leave. At last I told them if they want to see my passport they would come with me to the Police Station. It was getting dark and I wanted to get rid of these foolish as soon as possible. First they thought I am joking but later as the Police Station came nearer they became aggressive. I was walking with them, but I realized that they might take me somewhere else at lonely place so at one junction I asked them to wait. I enquired a shopkeeper which way goes to Police Station. Shopkeeper said the other way and these persons were taking me in different direction. I shouted loudly and asked for help. One of them gave me a fight on my face, I was helpless but after that he left my pouch, umbrella, cap and ran away. I got angry on other persons those who were with them and enjoying. I visited Police Station, which was just 50 meters away from that place. Because I shouted and Police Station was near so they ran from that place. I explained whole story to the Police Officer, he immediately sent a police on that route to search those drunker. I requested Police Officer to help me for contacting any Rotary Club member. I was having phone number of Rotarian Nasim Police Officer called him and explained my story then I spoke to him and explained the purpose of visit. He was Branch Manager of National Bank Norshingdi. He asked me to come to his office. Police Officer asked one police to go along with me and drop me at the National bank. I thanked police Officer and moved with the police towards bank. We reached at the National bank police went back I thanked him and went inside. Rotarian Nasim welcomed me. He checked up my file and called 3-4 Rotary Club Members. Everyone was impressed and because of that incident they created very special image of mine. I spent good time with them. They took many photographs. One of the Rotary Club members Rotarian Mohammad Yahya was very much interested in me. First they booked a room for me in a hotel but later Rotarian Yahya asked me if I would like to stay with him at his house. It was first time in Bangladesh I was going to stay at any Rotarian’s house. I said I would love to stay with you and moved with him. He was very kind heated but excited fellow. His house was not like rich Rotarians houses that I have seen many times. It was joint and big family first he introduced me to all his family members proudly then asked me to go for bath. Since many days I used to have very bad itching when I used to take bath especially whenever I wore those two shorts. But today I understood the reason behind it. Actually those shorts were with me since last four months and now the time has come to throw. I had a glass of milk before sleeping. Slept at 12 11th Day I have seen many Bangladeshi people take bath in pond’s. All most each and every poor fellow takes bath in Pond. The water was green and females wash their pots and even clothes at the same place. Some places people do wash their animals too. I was seating outside of the pond where Rotarian Yahya was taking bath. With no time news spread like anything. Staying any Indian in this area was pride for that family. So all neighbors came to see me. Moreover when they came to know that I am traveling on foot every one was stunt. I had break fast carried my rucksack and moved with Rotarian Yahya. We visited Norshingdi High School. Principal asked me to visit each class and talk. But I said it is not possible, I asked them to combine 3-4 classes so that I would save time and message could be delivered in a better way. I spoke two times in two different batches. Principal was highly impressed and offered me fruits and snacks. I was in a hurry to move towards “BULTHA” after thanking all I moved ahead. In the evening I reached Bultha by walk and hitch hike. I found a police camp there. I explained him and requested to help me for accommodation. Police Officer was very nice he called one man who was the head of a village. Police officer explained him about me and asked him to accommodate me somewhere for the night. He was with his friend, he asked his friend to drop me at his house and he would be coming soon. His brother opened a shop and asked me to seat inside. 3-4 persons gathered, when they came to know one Indian person has come to stay. There was a person who knew little Hindi even I was good in Bengali I was able to understand almost all what these persons were asking. So I spent very good time with them here I lied with them. I said I am studying about the culture and people of Bangladesh as well as doing something different so that I can get free food and accommodation, as I am not carrying any money. They all loved me a lot, they saw my photographs and praised a lot. I had dinner with them. Till 11 O’clock we were chatting. I slept in the shop itself. 12th Day The most polluted city ‘Dhaka’. Got up early morning thanked everyone. One person has dropped me on the highway, as the house was far inside in the village. I could not see that headman after I met him in Police Camp. I moved on the way to DHAKA that was just 30 Km. I enjoyed this highway walk. One thing I noticed that many private buses runs on highway Dhaka to Sylhet. Many drivers and cleaners have seen me since I left Sylhet. They used to see me walking on the highway and used to talk about me. They used to show their hands. At one place one driver stopped the bus he was old man. He asked me in Hindi, why do I walk? As he saw me many times walking on the highway. So I showed him the banner and explained him. This kind of people I met on the way. In the evening around 4 O’clock I reached Dhaka and contacted Rotarian Dr. Alimullah Miyan (Reference Rotarian P.D. Chaudhary of BRPL, met him in Singapore and were known to each other) asked me to come to his office. I reached his office at 6.30, he welcomed me and asked me if I would like to spend time on Internet but before that first thing he did is asked his driver to keep my rucksack in the Car. He was founder and Vice Chancellor of IUBAT. (International University of Business Agriculture and Technology) He struggled a lot in his youth time this is the fruit of his hard work. I surfed Internet at his Institute and at 8.30 we both moved to his house in his car. He was staying in a very big Bungalow (A big house) He introduced me to his wife. I got a guest room that was very big with attached bathroom. I took bath and joined Uncle and Aunty for Dinner. Both were very kind I had the best and very good dinner ever in Bangladesh. I remembered Chaudhary Uncle and Aunty of Bongaigaon. I was tired, so I slept at 10.30 13th Day It was first morning in Dhaka I had breakfast (I got a very good food with fruits) and moved with Uncle and Aunty. I told my program to Uncle that I would be first visiting to Indian Embassy and then to Burma Embassy. Aunty was working with WFP (World Food Program) so first we dropped her at IDB (Islamic Development Bank) Building. Uncle told me that the offices of this building pay the maximum rent in Dhaka. IDB building is the most expensive in Dhaka for offices on rent. IDB use that fund for the development and betterment of Islamic people. Then we reached IUBAT at 8.30 Uncle works from morning 8.30 till night 8.30 and because of his hard work only he was going to stand his own big University. In IUBAT first I surfed Internet, where I got the mail from WWF- Laos and Vietnam. They asked many questions to complete the formalities to get visa like Passport details and other personal details. I mailed them full information. Then Uncle asked his driver to drop me at the Indian Embassy Office. Here the second secretary was a stupid fellow, first he denied meeting but when I requested a lot and told him that I would require a reference letter in the name of Burma Embassy. I even told him that I got the similar kind of letter from Indian Embassy in Nepal for Bangladesh Visa. He asked me to wait. He wasted almost 2 hours of mine and again when I reminded him, he said first you visit to Burma Embassy, if they ask for letter then meet me. I was very angry on him these stupid officer do not value others time. I found many Indians curse on officers of our own Indian Embassy. I knew only one thing that if Indian Embassy in Nepal can issue the letter which I was asking for, how it was not possible to issue the same kind of letter by these stupid. Moreover unnecessary he asked me to wait. After wasting time still I moved towards Burma Embassy. There was problem with the address I was having old address with me. So I visited a five star Hotel and got the correct address. At 2 I reached Burma Embassy but no use the office hours was over. The timings were only for collection of Visa. I requested one of the officers to just provide little information. Visa officer came out, I explained him what I am doing and where I will be going ahead. He replied, “First you will not be allowed to walk anywhere in Burma. Secondly if you try to give speech anywhere, soldiers will put you in jail. Most important that you won’t be getting Visa at all, not even tourist Visa.” It was confirmed that I wouldn’t be getting Visa for Burma. I returned with depression, had lunch in the hotel and came back to IUBAT. I called up BSS (Banladesh Snghabad Sanstha) a News Paper agency (Reference got from Anirbon Roy reporter of The Telegraph -Guwahati) the director asked me to come to the office at 7 O’clock. I told Uncle that I might come home directly he gave me detailed address of his house. In BSS office a young person Mr. Rajesh took my interview and 3-4 photographs to distribute good News Papers. He was staying on the same route, which I wanted to go. I told him that I wanted to go to Uttara. We went by bus, I got down at Uttara and as Uncle draw map of his house and I reached home easily at 10.45. Uncle and Aunty was sleeping, guard has opened the gate and made served me the dinner. First I took bath and had dinner. I slept at 12 14th Day Friday is official holiday in Bangladesh. Morning time first I got heavy breakfast with Uncle. Uncle asked me to contact D.G. (District Governer of Rotary Club of 3280) Rotarian M. Uzair Farooq. He asked me to come for lunch and even invited for district meeting in the evening. So afternoon I went to Rotarian Farooq’s house, had lunch and spent some time at his house itself. He didn’t entertained me much means didn’t cared, he asked me to seat in the office for long time. In the evening meeting was at 4.30 but we left the house at 4.30. Here I laughed a lot and came to know how these big people come let for the function or meeting. When we reached at the venue everyone was waiting for Rotarian Farooq. Where as he was sleeping, he would have come in time but then people would not have given much importance to him. I saw many Rotarians whom I met on the way to Dhaka and they helped me a lot. Before Rotary Club members start their meeting I got the opportunity to thank all the Rotary Club members and even requested Rotarians to help me on the way to Cox’s Bazar. I spoke for just 5-8 Minutes but conveyed my message to all. Many Rotarians wanted to meet me. But they were having meeting and did not wanted to disturb. Still few Rotarians came out of the Cirdap auditorium and wished me. They gave me their visiting card to get help in their city. Rotarian Humayun Rashid was very impressed he supported me financially after thanking all I moved out. I thanked them and moved back to home by bus. Reached at 9 O’clock but had to seat for dinner alone. Uncle takes full rest on holiday. I slept at 11 after spending some time watching TV. 15-16th Day The next two days there was Bandh (strike) everything was closed. The strike was continued for second day also. I walked with Uncle up to the University Campus (his own University building). We spent some time on the site basement construction was going on. I saw his dream which would require around 100 crores (10 Billions) to complete. He has invested a lot already, one could learn from him a lot and really I thanked god for sending me amongst great people. He told me his plan, dream and how he would achieve it. He was a great just a great person. We came back after spending some time on the site. In the evening I met four female students from Holland and Germany, they were in Bangladesh for research and came to see Uncle. Uncle introduced me to them and then we spent more than an hour chatting about expedition. 17th Day It was the 5th day at those kind people’s house. I was feeling awkward for spending such long time but I was helpless. In the morning Reaching at IUBAT I moved to Indian Embassy and contacted First Secretary, this stupid officer refused to meet. I decided to visit Thai Embassy here I came to know that Indian’s get Visa on arrival for 15 days, but on one condition that I should have return ticket or third country Visa or Ticket. I came back to Indian Embassy for the help, if I get letter from Indian Embassy stating he would go ahead to third country but allow him to go one way. I decided to talk to Deputy High commissioner but his P.A. asked me to see, Counselor- Counselor. I got the appointment at 4.30 just for five minutes. At 4.30 he said I cannot assure you and he asked me to come next day at 11.30 I had very tough time whole day. I did not have lunch. I was so angry and frustrated, thought of seating out side the gate to protest against stupid Indian Officers. Why do they seat there if they can’t decide or cannot help Indian who is in trouble. I came back to IUBAT surfed Internet. Mailed to David and Sharon if they can fax letter to Thai Embassy stating I would be visiting Laos and Vietnam after Thailand. WWF-Thailand was not ready to respond so there was no hope of their support. I prepared my web page (www.angelfire.com/nd/praveenohal) with the help of student of IUBAT. At 8.30 moved home with Uncle. I had dinner and slept at 11.30 18th Day On 24th August, Uncle told me that he would drop me to a girl’s school where he arranged my speech. After breakfast he dropped me to the Uttara High School, I spoke to the Principal and given reference of Uncle. He welcomed me and called senior students in an auditorium. I delivered a nice speech with the help of interpreter and here also I found students rushed for autograph. At 11.30 I contacted Counselor- Counselor but that stupid fellow kept me waiting for long time and after two hours sent a message that, “we can’t do any thing.” I was very much frustrated and thought of hunger strike in front of the office. I came back to IUBAT explained Uncle everything, he suggested me to go to Chittagong and come back with all the formalities. I even thought the same way so that WWF-Laos and Vietnam will get some time to help me out from such situation. I had lunch with those four females the researchers from Holland and Germany, they took my photograph with them. I found my news with the Photograph in a weekly Magazine, “News and Views”. I came back with Uncle, had dinner, packed my rucksack and slept at 11.30 Dhaka, formerly spelled Dacca, lies on the Buriganga River. The old section of Dhaka, called the Sadarghat, includes the city's main shopping district and a busy outdoor market known as the Chauk. The Sadarghat has many mosques (Muslim houses of worship), some of which are hundreds of years old. Large numbers of poor families live in crowded slums in the Sadarghat. Middleclass and wealthy people make up most of the population of Ramna, one of the city's fastest growing areas. Ramna lies on the northern edge of Dhaka. It is the home of the University of Dhaka and has many tree-lined streets, a park, and a shopping district. 19th Day My Visa was valid till 5th of September so I was having around 10 day’s with me to go to Chittagong. I moved with Uncle and Aunty, they dropped me on the highway. I thanked them and moved ahead. I was always thanking god for sending me to kind and great people. First I reached a village called Sonargaon but after enquiring came to know there was no accommodation available. Police asked me to go to Daudkandi so today I would be reaching in a town called Daudkandi. By walk and hitch hike I reached there at 8 p.m. I visited Police Station and requested them to guide me to a cheap hotel and I got it just for 60 Taka. The room was very small with no ventilation. It was the dirtiest place I ever stayed in. 20th Day Next day morning when I got up found that there is no toilet. I used paper and polythene bag for stool and threw in the dustbin. The dirtiest thing I ever did. I moved out towards Comilla. I used to have fruits and snacks on the way. I used to take 15-20 minutes break also every after two hours walk. I stopped near to a school and was having snacks, many students gathered around me. I spoke Bengali with them, actually they were playing cricket. I asked them if they like Sachin Tendulkar everyone said yes, I showed them Sachin’s Photo (The one I have with Sachin) they were very happy. After spending time with them I moved ahead. Today I met bad boys again at a place I was having my lunch. I had a talk with them even they were talking to me nicely but when I went outside for washing my hands those persons took out money from my west pouch. I thought of carrying that west pouch with me, but thought these people would say, “what kind of person, he does not believe on us.” After wash I really thought of checking my pouch but didn’t. I never kept lot of money in my west pouch it was around 150 Taka. I paid for lunch before I go out for wash that was my mistake. I was doubtful because I saw them doing something with my pouch but I pretended as if I have not seen anything. When I opened it outside I found money were stolen. It was good lesson for me. I reached Comilla at 6.30 I had few Rotarians name, addresses and phone numbers with me. First I visited the nearest place at Rotarian Dr. Khurshid Alam but he was not at home. I requested the boy to call Rotarian Adv. Golam Farooq, I explained him the purpose of my visit. He asked me to come to his house. The boy helped me to reach Rotarian Adv. Farooq’s house. He welcomed me, I spent lot of time with his family he was having two sons and a daughter (Kumkum) 5-6 year old she was good in Hindi (becaue of cartoon program on Zee TV and movies) all enjoyed with me. First Rotarian Adv. Farooq arranged accommodation in a hotel but when he saw me playing with his daughter and son and they were happy he asked me to stay at his house. His office was in the house itself, I took bath and had dinner at 11 p.m. with them. Everyone in the house loved me. Slept at 12 21st Day I had to shift next day in a hotel but I came to know about shifting later, when Rotaractor Zahidul Islam came in the morning and asked me to carry my rucksack to move with him. Last night I washed few cloths and they were wet. I still packed my rucksack, said goodbye to my small friends, thanked Uncle and Aunty and moved with Zahidul. He took me at the meeting venue first it was decided in Rotary Hall but it was locked and person who was having key was not available. We waited for more than an hour but then we shifted to a Dibetic Centre of a Rotarian Meeting was supposed to start at 9.30 but started at 11 O’clock. It was whole district meeting where around 40 Rotaractors participated. In the meeting I delivered the speech. After the meeting these Rotaractors put me in a Hotel. In the evening they took me at a tree plantation site. I planted three saplings at a Rotaractors residence. They were very much impressed by the work that I was doing, they presented me a T-shirt too. Rotaractor Zahidul took me to a local News Paper office the reporter took my interview and said the News would be in the next days News Paper. I told Rotaractor Zahidul that I would be leaving early morning after the school speech, so we visited Rotarian Adv. Faooq I thanked Aunty gave WWF stickers to Kumkum and Rafi and came back. I had dinner at night and slept at 11 22nd Day After spending an extra day Rotaractor Zahidul came to the Hotel, I was ready with the rucksack. He showed me my news that was published in local News Paper. Both we moved to Comilla Modern High School. I delivered the speech, thanked Rotaractor Zahidul and moved towards a village called Chhodugram. It was around 40 Km I noticed on the way everywhere water, it was raining heavily and I was walking in the rain. So many times I got to see flood affected area and everywhere almost same situation. All crops were under the water. Many huts and houses were under the water. People were using small boats to travel. I did not know how much area was affected by Flood but till 25 Km I saw flood that to on the highway. I could imagine away from highway deep interior places what would be the condition. I reached Chhodugram in the evening at 6 O’clock and visited Police station. Police could not help me for accommodation, no Hotel and even they could not provide any place to spend the night. They asked me to go to FENI it was 30 Km there was no alternative it was already 7.30 I had to catch the Bus to go to Feni. I reached Feni at 8 O’clock I straightway went to Rotarian Adv. Akrammuzzaman’s house (I met him in Dhaka meeting where he gave me his card to visit his house) he was not at home but caretaker a young person was at home. When I told him that I am coming from India he allowed me to come inside I was wet so I took bath with the caretaker’s permission and changed the cloths. After some time Rotarian Adv. Akrammuzzaman and his wife came home. He recognized me and welcomed so I did not had to explain him. They were staying alone because their two sons and a daughter were studying in Dhaka. I got a separate bedroom. I had dinner with Uncle and Aunty spent time with them chatting and slept at 12.30 23rd Day I was getting very good response from Rotary and Rotaract in Bangladesh. Next morning Uncle asked me to carry a letter, the School Principal might not allow without any reference but when I visited two schools they were having exams. There was a College nearby so I decided to talk in any class in the College. I got the permission after long convincing to talk in science class at 10.40 I found teachers were in a hurry to finish their syllabus and they do not want to move from their track. They were interest less in environment and doing something good to protect our future generation. I was having an hour with me so I spent time watching cricket match in the staff room. At 10.40 I moved with one teacher in a class and delivered speech first time in the College in Bangladesh. I came back Aunty told her neighbors about me she was very kind and took lot of care. Neighbors came to see and to talk to me, she felt proud for introducing me to them. She was having many health problems. I prayed to god for her good health. 24th Day Uncle and Aunty blessed me as I packed my rucksack and moved. Uncle told me that there is an intercity meeting of Rotary Club in Chittagong at 5.30 in the evening. If I could reach there in the meeting I might get financial support. I started walk and got into bus at 2.30 reached Chittagong at 4.30 and went to Engineer’s Institute at the Venue of the meeting. I met Rotarian Anwar-ul-haque (He was there in the Dhaka Meeting) I got the opportunity to talk in the meeting at the end. Rotarian Anwar-ul-haque told he would collect funds from Rotarians and would give me later. After the meeting he took me to his house, I got his office to stay, which was in the house itself. He was having a son and a daughter I had dinner with the family and spent time chatting with them. I found his son and daughter were very shyer. 25th Day There also I was having very good breakfast like I used to get at Rotarian Alimulah Uncles house. Today I worked for the Visa extension part first I visited Indian Embassy but he told me to go to Bangladesh Passport office. I walked up to the office got the forms and enquired what would I require for the extension. The officer told me to come along with a Sponsorship letter or Dollars encashment receipt. I had lunch in the hotel and visited News Paper Office. The reporters were very nice and even they wanted to see what do I talk with the students? So they took me to the Private College but use less the director was not there. They took my interview and asked for photos. I went to Rotarian Anwar-ul-haque’s office he was a very big person and a captain. He was running a ship company. He was aware of my problems he said, “If I have Visa for Singapore, he would send me by ship to Singapore.” My expedition was becoming exciting and adventures day by day. 26th Day It was the first day of the September month. After having good breakfast I spent time with Aunty. Aunty was also very nice but was having many health problems like Feni’s Aunty. I prayed to god for her good health. Then I visited Summerfield Tutorials School. I got the students from 5th to 7th standard teachers were there to listen to me and most of them were from Calcutta. (Now kolkata) Every one was shocked and was impressed by the speech very much. They offered me snacks with cold drink. More over they were very happy to see an Indian doing such a good work. I visited Bangladesh Passport office Uncle told me to catch the broker who would do everything without letter or receipt as I was neither having Sponsorship letter nor Dollars encashment receipt. I caught a broker gave him about 200 Taka he did everything, gave me receipt and asked me to come on Sunday to collect Passport. Today I visited again to Uncle’s office he told me that the ship would leave for Singapore on 6th September. I had to cancel the plan or idea, because of time, 2nd, 3rd and 4th September was holiday and 5th was only day for me and in a day it was not possible to get Visa. Now I was having time till Sunday for collecting Passport so I decided to move towards Cox’s Bazar, which was 151 Km from Chittagong and come back on Sunday. 27th Day In the morning I got a reference letter from Uncle and financial assistance collected in the meeting. I thanked everyone and moved by walk. I walked for around 30 Km in the rain and got in to the bus in the evening to reach CHAKORIA a small town. I got a cheap Hotel (Hotel Kapsha) with the help of Police. Spent night in CHAKORIA. Today I faced a problem of swelling in between both the thighs. It was paining a lot. 28th Day The second day I moved towards Cox’s Bazar. It was less habitant area, hills and mountains with full of forest. On this highway people (driving Car) got scared to me thinking as if I am a robber. I tried to hitch hike but no one stopped and even in Bangladesh I never got lift. I always (whenever) had to travel by bus by paying. It was afternoon and I did not wanted to walk much because of thigh problem. I got in to a bus and reached Cox’s Bazar in the evening at 5 O’clock. I had trouble searching Rotary Club Member. After almost two hours search I got success finding Rotarian Swapan Dutta. I gave letter (Rotarian Haque –Chittagong) to him and he asked me to stay in his office itself because I was having my own bedding and toilet was there in the office. I had dinner and slept at 10.30 I spent just a day in Cox’s Bazar. Sea beach was the specialty of Cox’s Bazar. It was longest beach in the World. When I was roaming on the beach I saw how sea gets polluted. There was oil on the water any Vessel has dumped oil in the sea. I saw many Burmese people in Cox’s Bazar. According to my program I would have moved in Burma from the same route that was just 75 Km away. 29th Day On Sunday morning I caught the bus for Chittagong and reached at 9 in the morning. Kept my rucksack at Uncle’s (Rotarian Haque) house, Aunty didn’t allow me to go without breakfast. After breakfast I moved to Passport Office. I thought I would get passport immediately after showing receipt, but no it was not ready. I requested senior officer that it is important for me to get Passport today itself then the officer asked me to go to City Special Branch. I went to City Special Branch these people asked me to come after 2-3 days. I was very much frustrated I showed Bengali News Paper cutting and photographs and requested to make it today itself. He said, “ok wait”, I sat down in front of him. He was very slow, there was work of just 5-10 minutes but he took two hours for that. After lot of frustration I got the receipt. I was happy and thought job is over, but then the officer told me to go to Passport office. Not wasting much time I went to the Passport office and gave the receipt. Now this officer’s turn was to say come on the next day. I begged literally I begged to give me Passport today itself. Then he asked me to come at 4.30 p.m. I was having two hours with me so thought of surfing Internet and what a coincidence that I got a Rotaractor Who was running that café. When he came to know about me he got very happy because he read my news in today’s “The Daily Star” News Paper, which covers full Bangladesh. He called another Rotaractor offered snacks to me, even I was hungry because of running here and there I did not get time to eat. After spending time with the Rotaractors and surfing net (I didn’t get any mail from WWF- Laos or Vietnam regarding Fax to Thai embassy, which I asked last time) for an hour, Rotaractor Mutaleb took me to the Passport office. I contacted the same officer but this officer made a mess, he wasted 2 pages just for extension stamp. First was not clear so he used second page not even back of first page. But I was happy to get my Passport back in my hand. In the evening Rotaractor Mutaleb took me to the Rotaract meeting. I enjoyed a lot in this meeting. I won almost all prizes of this special meeting. After coming back to house, I packed my rucksack, had dinner and said goodbye to Uncle, Aunty and Titash (Uncle’s son). I got in to the bus that goes to Dhaka I did not wanted to waste even a single day. 30th Day Reached Dhaka on 6th September at 5.30 and went to Uncle’s house at 7 O’clock, this time also Uncle and Aunty welcomed me. I got ready and moved with Uncle and Aunty. Visited Thai Embassy, but the girl who accepts application forms she asked me to come the next day. I shouted a lot on the window “Every time you asked me to come the next day” One officer came at the window and enquired what I want. I explained him in detailed so he asked me to come in the afternoon with application form with the letter from Indian Embassy. I was really very angry on Indian Embassy officer’s I moved to Indian Embassy, this time I got five minutes to meet Deputy High Commission. After showing letter from ministry of External affairs, referring Indian Embassy in Nepal’s letter case, I even told him that I spent almost eight day’s previously but nobody helped me. These officers used to ask me come next day-come the next day, as if I stay in Bangladesh itself. After lot of efforts he agreed to issue a letter and called First Secretary who first denied issuing any letter. But he had to issue this time and I got it after spending two hours behind him. At 2 O’clock I went to Thai Embassy. Filled the application form, attached the letter and submitted at 2.30 p.m. The officer was very nice he accepted my application and asked me to wait for an hour. I didn’t have lunch and was praying to god to give Visa. The girl came out with all my documents and said we will not give you Visa you would get it on arrival. I felt like crying for not getting Visa. I came back to IUBAT explained uncle and told that now only one way to go to Thailand. I would buy two-way tickets, after reaching Thailand I would send the return ticket back to Dhaka. Uncle enquired about the airfare from his known agent. Two-way ticket was costing around 18,000 Taka but the way we decided the agent agreed for that and told us that one-way ticket would cost 14,200 Taka. So far in Bangladesh I got 7000 Taka. Uncle’s Club (Rotary Club of greater Dhaka) supported me with 2000 Taka and District Governer of Rotary 3280 supported with 2000. So total comes to 11,000. There was short of 3200 Taka. I was having 8,500 Indian Rupees, (Uncle told me that carrying so much Indian Rupee was illegal, he told me one cannot carry more than 200 Rupees in Bangladesh) so I told Uncle to book a ticket. Uncle asked air ticket agent to book one ticket to Bangkok. 31st Day Uncle helped me a lot for fund raising and for the ticket. Uncle asked me to visit Rotary Club of Kamara the next day. Uncle was also having a good day today. A project would require 25 Lac Taka (2.5 Million Taka) and was forwarded to Rotary International that got sanctioned. It was Uncle’s project. He always does projects with International Rotary Clubs he keeps cool and does work for his country & people. I went to Travel Agent for collecting ticket but he was not there and then to Rotary Club of Kamara. I explained them about my tragedy and requested to fund me remaining amount i.e. 3200 Taka. The Club was not having cash, but they contacted Uncle (Rotarian Miyan) and asked if he would accept cheque on his name so that Uncle would give cash. He said no problem. I could not believe I got cheque of 3500 Taka from this club. One more thing regarding Uncle, he was a great supporter of my expedition. He helped me at a great extent. I used his car whole day. I visited that Travel Agent again and got the ticket. It was Dhaka-Bangkok-Dhaka, my flight was at 4.45 and reporting time was 2.30 on 8th September 1999 (the next day). I would be flying by Bangladesh Biman (Airways). 32nd Day Another exciting day, Aunty blessed me before she leaves for the office I thanked her. I came to the University with the Uncle. He arranged the speech with the IUBAT (University) students. I had a nice talk there. Yesterday he faxed a letter to a Rotarian whom he met in Singapore and wrote to help me in Bangkok in Thailand, as I do not know anything about Bangkok. He gave me the copy of the letter. In the afternoon uncle asked his driver to drop me at the Airport. I thanked the great person without his support the remaining expedition would be very difficult. He was amongst one of the successor of the expedition. I thanked the driver also and moved inside the Airport. It was third time of mine to sit in the Air Plane, last two times to go to Sri Lanka and return to Chennai (Madras). Now I knew many things from entry to exit in and out of the Airport. The flight was delayed by two hours, (obviously Asian countries are always careless about the time). I was little tensed because of the ticket, as it was Dhaka-Bangkok-Dhaka. I was not having multiple or double entry visa with me. If any one would question about the visa I was prepared for the answer that I would get it (the visa for Bangladesh) in Bangkok. At the counter of Boarding Card, the officer took some more time as compare to others, asked many questions but I behaved normal (no fear, no stress) as if I knew a lot. I got the boarding card and there was a hidden smile on my face. At the immigration also the officers asked me lot of questions about the expedition, education and lot more. I do not know what is the rule but I would say that might be because of unawareness or careless ness I got the clearance. But still I am not sure about the rule that I would have got the clearance without double entry visa. I behaved with them very friendly. It was 6.30 we were waiting at the last entry point. 6.50 I entered in to the AirPlane and saw it was very big Plane. Not congested like Sri Lanka Air Plane. Computer screen was there at a distance of every five lanes. It used to show the status like at what Speed Plane flying, how far we are from the destination, on how much height the Plane is flying, what is the temperature out side and time left to reach at the destination etc. I saw once that time the Plane was on 37,000 feet high and temp was –50-degree Celsius. After announcement and all once Plane took off after few minutes we got dinner and got to see a movie of Laurel and Hardy. I was laughing so much that everyone used to look at me. It was good that I was sitting alone on the seats of three. But I was helpless I could not control myself and used to laugh till the end. It was a great movie. Now we were approaching to the Bangkok. We got the embarkation Cards to fill. There were two Pakistani’s sittings in front seat. They asked me to fill the Card. I found them funny and dirty always talking about girls and plans of spending time in Bangkok. They were carrying lot of money with them. I filled up the form and returned them. About Bangladesh Bangladesh is a South Asian nation that once formed part of Pakistan. Bangladesh gained independence in 1971 after a nine-month civil war between East Pakistan and West Pakistan. From 1947 to 1971, the region that is now Bangladesh was East Pakistan. More than half the people of Pakistan lived there. The northeastern part of India borders Bangladesh on three sides. Bangladesh shares many cultural and geographical features with nearby West Bengal, a state of India. Bangladesh used to be known as East Bengal and together with West Bengal formed a region known as Bengal. The name Bangladesh means the land of the Bengalis. Bangladesh is one of the world's most populated countries. The nation's rapid population growth has led to serious overcrowding. The people of Bangladesh are called Bangladeshis. Widespread poverty has long characterized the region. Most Bangladeshis are poor farmers who struggle to make a living on small plots of land. Between the 1960's and the late 1980's, the proportion of people living in the cities and towns more than doubled as people from the countryside moved away from the land in search of a higher standard of living. But many workers in the cities also are extremely poor. Most of Bangladesh's adults cannot read and write. About 85 per cent of the people of Bangladesh are Muslims, and most of the remainder are Hindus. There are also some Buddhists and Christians. The region that is now Bangladesh has been governed by Hindu, Muslim, and Buddhist rulers at various times in its history. The British East India Company became the leading power in the area in 1757. The region became part of the British Empire when Great Britain (also called the United Kingdom) took control of India in 1858. Ancient Hindu epics indicate that thousands of years ago, tribal people inhabited a kingdom called Vanga in the region that is now Bangladesh. Before about the 200's B.C., the region formed part of the Maurya Empire. This empire broke up about 185 B.C., and local kings then ruled Bengal. From about A.D. 320 to 500, the region was part of the Gupta Empire. Buddhist rulers gained control of eastern Bengal in the mid-700's. Buddhist culture spread throughout the region. After about 300 years of Buddhist rule, Hindu kings came to power. Beginning in the 1200's, Turkish Muslims who had conquered northern India extended their control into eastern Bengal. Independent Muslim rulers governed parts of Bengal until 1576, when the Mughal emperor Akbar conquered the region. Bengal became part of the Mughal Empire, which spread across most of what is now Afghanistan, India, and Pakistan. Muslim art and architecture flourished. By about the 1600's, most of the people of eastern Bengal had been converted to Islam. The Mughal emperors appointed governors called nawabs to rule the provinces of the empire. In the early 1700's, the empire began to break up, partly because powerful Hindu groups in central and western India rebelled against Muslim rule. At the same time, Bengal and other provinces became increasingly independent as the nawabs took more power for themselves. During the 1500's, British, Dutch, French, and Portuguese traders competed for control of the profitable trade between the East Indies and Europe. By the 1600's, European trade settlements had been established in Bengal. At first, the Europeans met strong resistance from the provincial nawabs, who demanded taxes in return for trade privileges. But after the Mughal Empire began to weaken in the 1700's, the Europeans increased their influence. Ambitious Mughal nawabs, nobles, and generals competed for power. The Europeans took sides in many of these conflicts, offering their support in return for monopoly trade privileges and other rewards. Later Bengal became a province of British India. Under British rule, industrial development and educational reforms advanced rapidly in western Bengal, where most of the people were Hindus. But eastern Bengal, where most of the people were Muslims, remained backward and agricultural. In 1905, the viceroy (governor) of British India divided Bengal into two parts--West Bengal and East Bengal. East Bengal became part of a new province. Many Hindu Bengalis objected to the division. They feared a loss of their economic and political power. But Muslims favoured the division because they made up the majority of the province's population. The conflict led to bloody rioting between Hindus and Muslims in Bengal. The British reversed the division in 1911, and Bengal again became a single province. Throughout British India, independence movements began to gain strength during the 1900's. The Muslim League, a political organization formed in 1906, became the voice of India's Muslim minority. By 1940, league leaders were demanding that a separate Muslim nation, to be called Pakistan, be created out of Indian territory. Riots between Hindus and Muslims in the 1940's convinced government leaders that India would have to be divided. In 1947, Great Britain granted independence to India and established Pakistan as an independent country. Western Bengal became a state of India. Eastern Bengal became East Pakistan. East Pakistan was separated from West Pakistan by about 1,600 kilometres of Indian territory. The people of the two parts of Pakistan shared a common religion, but they had little else in common. They spoke different languages and had different cultures and traditions. East Pakistanis made up more than half the population of Pakistan, but West Pakistanis controlled the government, economy, and armed forces. Only about a fourth of the money spent by the government went to East Pakistan. Over the years, East Pakistanis grew increasingly dissatisfied with the government of Pakistan. In November 1970, a cyclone and tidal wave struck East Pakistan and killed about 266,000 people. Many East Pakistanis accused the government of delaying shipments of relief supplies to the devastated areas. Civil war soon broke out. The fighting began in East Pakistan. Then, on March 26, 1971, the East Pakistanis declared East Pakistan an independent country called Bangladesh. They formed a guerrilla army to fight the government troops. Thousands of civilians died in the fighting that followed, and millions of refugees poured into India. During the early months of the civil war, East Pakistani guerrillas also crossed into India. The government forces shelled Indian Territory and followed the guerrillas across the border. Indian troops fought border clashes with the Pakistani government soldiers. In 2December 1971, the Indian Army advanced into East Pakistan and joined the guerrillas. The combined forces of the Indians and guerrillas overpowered West Pakistan, which surrendered on Dec. 16, 1971. Sheik Mujib became the country's first Prime Minister. Bangladesh faced staggering problems as an independent country. Millions of its people were homeless. Trade, transportation routes, and communication lines had to be restored. Hospitals, factories, and schools had to be rebuilt. Reconstruction programmes began almost immediately. But floods and food shortages caused widespread suffering, and charges of political corruption weakened the government. In 1988, Bangladesh experienced one of the worst monsoon floods in its history. More than 2,000 people died and about 25 million became homeless. In April 1991, a cyclone and tsunami (a huge, destructive wave) struck Bangladesh. About 138,000 people died in the disaster that caused the country tremendous financial loss. The currency of Bangladesh is Taka. The Bangladesh flag was officially adopted in 1972. The red stands for the sun and the green for scenic beauty. A water lily, the national flower of Bangladesh, appears in the center of the emblem.

Thailand

1st Night

I reached at the Airport at 10.30 night. As soon as I came in the lobby, I could feel the difference it was great and wowwwww girls. I saw many times in the movies but here I was looking them at face to face from a feet distance. Went first for exchange got the exchange of 50$ around 1300 Bath (Thai currency). Went to “Visa on Arrival” counter and got the visa for 15 days by paying 300 Bath. I was in the lobby, phone facility was free, I called up the Rotarian to whom Uncle faxed the letter, but he refused to help. I was little disappointed but then decided to spend the night on the Airport and move in the morning at WWF office to get the help from them. Even I went outside once to see how the atmosphere is but I could not dare to go and more over where to go that was the question. It was much better to spend the night on the Airport.

2nd Day

It was first morning and second day (according to Visa) in Thailand on 9th September. The WWF office was in ATI (Asian Institute of Technology). At 5.30 when I came out of the AirPort it scared me a lot very wide roads with the flyovers for crossing the road. Many people rushing in and out of the AirPort, I was looking at the Thai people as I was looking them first time in my life (means many Thai people). It was great experience for me to be in Thailand because in India I used to hear about Thailand a lot and now I was in the city of Bangkok. I couldn’t believe it. I enquired how to go to ATI and reached by bus at the office address at 6.30 in the morning. The office was in a building and in the same building there were other offices too. So the entrance gate was open and in the lobby there were chairs to seat and a bathroom. I kept my rucksack got fresh in the bathroom and waited for the officers, as the timings were from 8 O’clock. After 8 staff started coming, I introduced myself to the secretary of Mr. Robert Mather who was the Director at that time and explained her about the expedition. She went inside and explained but he was not at all interested in me and do not want to meet me. I thought there would not be any problem, he would welcome and would greet me happily but nothing happened the way I expected, I had to request the secretary to allow me to meet Mr. Robert. He was the first man who was working for the sake of environment and denied helping me. Even he didn’t responded to my e-mails regarding help to get the visa. I requested him, it’s new country and new people for me, I need help for accommodation but even he was not so kind enough to guide me. After spending lot of time in the office when I understood Mr. Robert won’t help me. I requested to give some posters at least in Thai language. I found Mr. Robert was not at all interested in my expedition or me. But even I was very different kind of person, I moved out with few posters and stickers. I decided to go to Indian High commission and asked for the help. The ATI was little outskirts of Bangkok and Indian Embassy was situated in the city. It was unbelievable Bangkok was so beautiful with high and shining buildings with many over bridges or flyovers with clean and wide roads. Beautiful girls and helping people even you will get lot of respect from them. I was very hungry so I decided to have good and enough of food. I went in a hotel and had a very different kind of lunch, I ordered an omlette and rice with the curry. But I got chicken soup with chicken pieces. The taste of chicken was different and was very difficult to push in the stomach. I felt like I am chewing rubber. I could guarantee the composition of omelette, and I had watched it cooked by a lady who was suckling a baby at the same time. I admired the skill with which she transferred the infant form one breast to another while turning my omelette. I paid 40 Bath for the food. It was 2.00 p.m. when I reached office of the Indian High commission, after lunch. On the reception I explained and requested an Indian officer to help me. He asked me to meet Mr. Y.P. Singh. Mr. Y.P. Singh could not do much except providing 3-4 letters in the name of few temples to help me for accommodation. The other staff suggested me to go to “Pohurat” even the list was showing few addresses of the same area, the known place for Indians in Bangkok. I heard around more than a 100,000 Indians live in that area. I was really surprised. I enquired Thai people about the bus number that goes to “Pohurat”. One thing I liked of Thai people that they would apologize if they do not know or they would guide you in better way. (Not like Indians or others that even if one do not know anything about the address still the person would send in any direction but would never say, “no, I do not know”. In Thailand no body misguides unless you ask the person who knows English or you should be aware of Thai language.) In “Pohurat” I saw India. There was not much difference, you get to hear Hindi songs while walking but the language spoken was Thai. Everyone knows Hindi in “Pohurat”. So first I went to Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) the famous one, it was 5 O’clock in the evening I met President, explained him and requested for the accommodation in Gurudwara. First time any Sardarjee (Punjabi) denied me for help and refused. I was so confident, that Indians would help me and when they would know the cause for the purpose I walk they would come forward to help. But tears came out when the Sardarjee denied me, I could not think for a moment where to go and where to stay. I said to myself, “control!!!!! It’s an expedition I should try, try and try after hard work only one gets success.” The only worrying problem, it was getting dark and since last night I could not sleep. I visited another address from the letters given by Mr. Singh it was a temple “Hindu Samaj”. It was 7 p.m. It was a big Hindu temple. I went inside contacted Panditji, who was really a God for me. I showed the letter given by Mr. Singh and requested to help me for the accommodation. But the president of the Temple was Mr. Ashok Chawla. He was staying at a different place. Panditji & I spoke to him, he said we do not have any rooms in the temple but then I requested him that even if I could get a small place anywhere in the temple it would do. At last God helped me and Mr. Chawla allowed me to stay but only if Panditji do not have any problem. There were other Panditji’s also, everyone loved me and praised the work. Aunty, Panditji’s wife, she was very kind and took lot of care. I kept my rucksack in a corner of the room, took bath had very good Indian vegetarian dinner and slept in the main hall along with two junior Panditji where people sit for prayer. I thanked God for not leaving me alone in new country with new people.

3rd Day

My plan was to walk according to the expedition program. Just because I didn’t get visa for Burma, I had to come to Thailand otherwise the next country was Laos. Even I was having only 15 days visa with me to get the Lao visa and continue the expedition. So on third day morning without wasting much time I left at the office of Lao High Commission. I explained the counselor about the expedition and enquired if they have got any kind of letter or instruction regarding me from Laos WWF. But the counselor said, “No” and even refused to give visa stating, “You should have return ticket from Lao or double entry visa for Thailand or should have the third country visa. We should have something that proves you would leave Laos.” He suggested me to get visa from the border. I was very much tensed and was worried. I was thinking what Sharon London (Project Officer WWF-Lao) has done from Laos, nothing? I was confident of getting visa because before I leave for Bangkok she wrote me to get the visa in Bangkok. I decided to call up Lao but before that I called up Vietnam spoke to Mr. David and got Sharon’s phone number. Then I called up Sharon (Call to Lao was like a local can be made from any booth, the charges were one Bath per 2 seconds.) But could not speak to Sharon. The lady who picked up the phone even she was aware about the expedition, so I explained her and requested to fax the letter to the Lao embassy at the border, as I would reach border after a week. I told her to get it done in a week’s time. I was doubtful and tensed that if I do not get visa the expedition would end-up. I sent the return ticket to Uncle as per the promise (Rotarian Alimullah Miyan) at Dhaka in Bangladesh by speed post, which cost me more than 400 Bath. I came back in the temple had lunch and in the evening, when Mr. Chawla and other members came, I requested them to write a letter for me in Thai language that would explain about the expedition and the way I walk i.e. with the help of people. Mr. Koder one of the members wrote the letter for me. He wrote the letter so nicely and even stated that whosever reads the letter, should not trouble him and help him by providing food and accommodation. Mr. Chawla also provided financial assistance. In the evening I visited the park (gardern) and realised what and how developed countries are. There were so many facilities provided by the authorities that people do use it and even takes care. There were many people from all age group, were doing exercise. Young boys and girls were playing various games. Even the atmosphere encourages people to do exercise and play sports. It was a very big park, cleaned and maintained. After spending almost an hour I came back in the temple, but on the gate I faced real language problem. Oh!!!!!!!!!!!!!! God it was really funny and I was even helpless at that time. Actually the prayer timing was over and guard thought I have come for prayer. I told him so many times that I stay here in the temple. But he was talking something in Thai language, which I was not able to understand, except that he was asking me to go. He was shouting on me to go …go….go…I tried to explain even through body language but he used to laugh looking at the action. Even I laughed and understood it was really difficult to explain. I shouted on him but still he didn’t open the gate. At last one of the Junior Panditji came down for his own work. At that time I told him about the guard, even he started laughing and asked him in Thai language, to open the gate and told that I stay in temple. I really had a great time convincing that guard. In the temple when I told the gate story, every one could not stop laughing. I had dinner and slept at 11.30 p.m.

4th Day

I wanted to go to Thailand-Lao border in a week time even though it was not coming in the expedition route. The distance from Bangkok to Nong Khai was around 615 Km. It was off course not possible to cover by walk that too in a week’s time, as I got “on arrival” visa and the validity was only for 15 days. Today was the fourth day in Thailand. But still I decided to go by walk but hitchhike more distance. Early morning I decided to go to a town called Saraburi. Everyone blessed me before leaving, I thanked them all and moved with the help of Bangkok map. But still there were many crossings, cross roads and flyovers, it was difficult to choose the right one. I was supposed to walk through Airport road. I used to enquire but because of language problem I wasted lot of time. At last I got an idea, I caught a man who knew English. I explained him about the expedition and requested him to write two lines that “I want to go to ……..(I should take the name of the place) such and such place on foot and please help me to show the way.” So now the work was very easy. Whenever I got any cross road, I used to show the small paper and used to ask for Airport. Because from Airport the highway was near even to avoid many questions like it’s very far, not possible by “DUNG THAO” means by walk. I saw many girls while walking, many places girls works and one important thing I have noticed that Mostly School and College girls and boys have similar uniform all over the city. It was white Shirt and Black Skirt for girls and Shirt and Pant for boys with same color combination.

It is peculiar; a huge statue to democracy dominates the main street of Bangkok that I passsed through. I had snacks and fruits on the way. In the afternoon I was near to the Airport and having snacks in a small hotel. A person came to purchase coke bottles. First I asked him if he knows English, he replied, little then I enquired about the Airport. The person said oh!!!! It’s too far. Later he enquired about me so I explained him. He was very happy and said I can drop you up to Saraburi. He was going by his car and there were three more people inside the car two girls and a person. He introduced me to them and kept my rucksack in the backside of the car. The other person was good in English. They were going to one of their friend’s marriage party. After enjoying a lot with them before I get down at Saraburi they said, “why do not you come and enjoy the party? You would get to see the Thai marriage party also.” They even told me that they would drop me back next day at the same place. They were going to Lopburi 50 Km ahead of Saraburi but on the different route.

First time after spending Nine months in Five countries I got such great people that they have responded to an unknown person and not only that you could understand how much faith and believe they were having in just half an hour. I said ok because they were going to drop me back and even I would get to see Thai tradition.

They were drinking, smoking and dancing in the car. But they all were very good people. I was sitting in between a girl and a person. One who was sitting besides me was Sopida and the man was Pumpaka (the only man of around 35 years of age) on the front seat the girl was Tekikawa and boy was Werapong. All were around 28-30 years of age, unmarried (except Pumpaka) and jolly persons. Both were very smart and I was lucky to have got Sopida beside me. She was dancing like anything because of over drink. She asked me also to dance on the tune of music running in the car. I used to have only cold drinks. I enjoyed like anything, I thanked God for the joy and love in other country by those beautiful people. We reached Lopburi and went to the venue. Actually the Marriage was on next day, but partial celebration was the same day. They introduced me to the wedding couple. Both were very smart.

We didn’t spent much time, with in 15 minutes Werapong and Pumpaka got the bottles of whisky, Cold Drinks and asked me to come it was evening time around 6 O’clock. We went to a lake (Sap Lake) that was around 20 Km away. They purchased snacks and ordered lot of dishes then we finalized a tent (Bamboo Tent) at the bank of the lake. There were many tents and couples in the tents were enjoying the evening. It was a romantic place and people were enjoying a lot. The scene and sunset was lovely and beautiful. We enjoyed swimming had variety of Thai food and it was all Yaaaaaaaaammmmm really fried chicken with chilly and lot more. I would say it was “sapiliya” in Thai means delicious, I never had such kind of food before and would not have had in future with such great boys & girls at such a beautiful place. We spent more than three hours and returned at his friend’s house. It was unforgettable evening of my life spent with good men and beautiful girls. At night during party everyone was looking at me, as I was the alone Indian in the party. There also I had variety of Thai food but different which I had on the lake.

In the party I got to know about Thai cuisine, it is pungent and spicy, seasoned with heaps of garlic and chillies and a characteristic mix of lime juice, lemon grass and fresh coriander. Galanga root, basil, ground peanuts, tamarind juice, ginger and coconut milk are other common additions. Fish sauce or shrimp paste are mainstays of Thai dishes, and of course rice is eaten with most meals. Main dishes include hot and sour fish ragout, green and red curries, various soups and noodle dishes. Thai food is served with a variety of condiments and dipping sauces. Snacks and appetisers include fried peanuts, chicken, chopped ginger, peppers and slices of lime. There is an incredible variety of fruit available, either fresh or juiced. Sugar-cane juice and, for something stronger, rice whisky are favourite local tipples.

We exchanged thoughts on marriage ceremonies in India and Thailand. I came to know that in Thailand male has to give the dowry to female, where as in India female has to give the dowry to male. So it was said that if a female born in Thailand parents welcomes Happily. I saw the Photographs of the wedding couple woooooooooowwwwww, each dress of couple was not less than 40-50 thousand Bath and even for the photographs they have paid around 25 thousand Bath. The photographs were beautiful both were looking very smart and the bride was looking like a princess. The brides father was in Air force he took us in the Air force quarters. We got two rooms to spend the night. Regarding Thai Language, Thai is a complicated language with its own unique alphabet, but it's fun to try at least a few words. The main complication with Thai is that it is tonal: the same word could be pronounced with a rising, falling, high, low or level tone and could theoretically have five meanings!

5-6th Day

Really I was not having words for those nice men and girls. In the next morning they dropped me at Saraburi but before taking leave we had breakfast. Mr. Pumpaka wrote the Thai word for Hitchhike. He told me if you want to hitchhike just show the paper and name the place. I thanked them a lot, I wish to do something for them but except two words “Thank you” and WWF stickers I was not having anything for them. I said goodbye to them and moved Pakchong the next destination. In the evening I reached Pakchong and visited Police Station, showed the letter of Hindu Samaj written in Thai language and requested for cheap hotel. He directed me to a cheap hotel. I stayed there but at night I found many girls off course Prostitutes were sitting even they asked me too but in friendly manner because they were aware about the expedition and respected me a lot. I just laughed went out had dinner and came back. I am a person and I do have feelings but believe me my girlfriend saved me, it’s because of her I never tried to do anything. She used to guide me and always used to tell not to break her trust. Whenever any bad feeling arises, I used to seat and remember her. It’s true and world known that behind each successful man there is a woman but behind me there were two, one my mother (expired) and other my girlfriend. On 6th day I stayed same way in the cheap hotel in Si khiu.

7th Day

Everyday I was trying to contact Sharon (WWF-Lao) but was not able to talk to her even I sent the message through Internet too. At the same time I was in touch with David and informed about the problem. I was walking on the hope that she would do something for me by the time I reach at the border. Otherwise I would have to come back to India. It was 14th September and I traveled through Pakchong and reached Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat was the old name). I did not spend money even though I came by bus. Actually at a check post I requested a Traffic Police Officer who was little good in English. He saw my photographs even the letter (Thai language) and enquired lot about the countries that I visited. Later when a bus came he told the ticket officer not to take money from me. I got very kind people on the way. I used to get some people who knew broken English and even I learned little Thai language. In just 3-4 days, like “kerm rang” means fried rice, “Naam” means water, “Dung Thao” means walking, “rung rang thuk-thuk” means cheap hotel, “Thao Dai” means how much and much more not very much but enough for survival. In Nakhon Ratchasima I went to Indian Market. As in Pohurat (Bangkok) I enquired about the presence of Indians in other cities and came to know about presence of Indian Market in each big city. In the market I contacted one Sardarji’s shop and showed the letter. He asked me to contact President of Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) whose shop was very close to his shop. I went there and showed the letter. Mr. Jessa Singh an 80-year-old man took me to the Gurudwara and opened a very good room. He drew map of his house and asked me to come for the dinner. I got very good response than what I used to get in India. They used to talk about India with me. I had Indian food at their house and the family praised a lot. It was first family I could meet after Bangkok.

8th Day

Next day morning I thought of visiting schools, so I visited a school. I saw two girls who seemed to be teachers, at first I asked them if they know English, both said, “a little” then I told that I would like to meet English teacher. Both the girls replied with the smile on their face, “yes tell us we are English teachers.” I would have laughed there itself but controlled (when teachers knew English a little, what would be the students condition) and explained them the purpose of visit, but they could not understand what exactly I want to do even after showing the photographs. Still I forced and asked them to take me to the Principal but even she was not at all good in English, those two teachers explained but not properly and the result of that, principal refused for the talk with the students. I gave the poster and stickers to the teacher and requested to put on the notice board. When I came back in the Gurudwara I found Mr. Jessa sing was waiting for me. He took me to his house for breakfast and in the evening I saw the Statue known as YAMU of Queen on whose name the city has got the name as Nakhon Ratchasima. There was the story behind the statue, Queen Cima fought against France for freedom and she killed lot of France’ soldiers. People pray in front of the statue and now she was one of the Goddess. At night another Sardarjee Mr. Sethi invited me for dinner. Those Sardarjees were also kind as in India.

8-9th Day

On 17th I completed more than a week in Thailand and was in Khon Kaen after crossing Udon Thani. Here in this Gurudwara, first time I found Gyaniji (Priest) Mr. Rajendra Singh he was very kind. He used to tell me the stories of Guru Gobind Singhji and how Sikh people fought for Hindu’s at the same time he was very angry. During 1984 riot when Prime Minister Indira Gandhi assassinated, many hindus killed thousands of innocent Sikh’s, why? Is it just because Sikh’s were involved in assassination? When he came on that topic, he told me that his one of the relative got killed in that riot. I saw the fire in his eyes even I could feel his pain. Really why people do not understand? Why should others suffer for one’s mistake? People unnecessary create problems and destroy their lives instead of enjoying peaceful life with love and unity. It was Friday and I was not having enough time to work to get the visa because of Saturday and Sunday. And then I get only three days to get the visa or to go back in India. I was very much tensed, called up Sharon and asked whether they have sent any fax to Lao consulate at the border but she was helpless. At last without wasting much time I went to Lao consulate and tried for visa but these people asked, what proof I have that after Laos I would go to Vietnam. They asked me to get fax from MEA (Ministry of External Affairs) of Lao. Now I was again in trouble and felt like it’s now end of the Expedition. I called up Vietnam and asked David to fax a letter on WWF letterhead. I told him that I would mail the matter. I prepared the matter myself it was like,

“Mr. Praveen Ohal is on South Asia Expedition carrying message of WWF i.e. “Save the Earth, Save the Animals and Support WWF.” He would be coming Vietnam after Laos. WWF-Vietnam would take care of Mr. Praveen Ohal. So kindly issue him the visa for Laos.” The fax was something similar to what I have written. I gave the fax number of one of the Sardarjee’s house-cum office.

10th Day

On 18th I got the fax, Uncle told me that the fax came on 17th itself. I was happy to have something with me so that against it I might get visa. But I could not submit the application in Khon Kaen because the officer knew my case and would ask for MEA letter. So the only possibility was Bangkok.

11th Day

On Sunday 19th I moved to Bangkok with lot of tension and frustration. I even missed the train so I went to the Bus station and got in to the Bus. At night at 10 O’clock I reached Bangkok and then in Pohurat. I walked towards the temple but a policeman enquired and then he himself dropped me to the temple. Because of the policeman, watchman opened the gate of temple. He was little doubtful so he came to drop me on the top where all Panditjis sleep. When a Panditji welcomed me, the Policeman understood and left. I got the same place to sleep.

Rebirth of expedition

12-13-14th Day I ran towards the Lao Embassy, I didn’t talk much that time just submitted the fax of WWF-Vietnam with the application form. He checked the fax and asked for 600 Bath visa fees for urgent visa. I got the visa at 12 pm. It was great day for me. There was no limit of my joy. 20th night I spent in Bangkok and Later I spent a day in travelling to Khon Kaen. Spent a night in the same Gurudwara. The Gyaniji was happy to see me again. Because when I left the Gurudwara, I told him that if I get visa, I will come back, if not will fly back to India. He understood that I have got the visa and will go to Laos. 15th Day

On 22nd September, the last day of validity of visa in Thailand, I moved to Nong Khai. Then walked up to the border. First I got a Thai immigration Check Post, but Laos immigration Post was 2 Km after the friendship Bridge. I wanted to cross the distance by walk but the officer told walking or cycling is not allowed you should go by bus (A shuttle run on the bridge). So I paid 10 Bath and bus dropped at the Laos Check Post. I paid 10 Bath more as entry fee.

LAOS

1st Day

It was 3 O’clock still I decided to walk because Vientiane the capital of Laos was less than 20 Km. Immediately I noticed the difference of Poor and Rich or Developed and undeveloped country. The road was not good people were like Indian villagers, even the huts. They used to show me their hands and used to watch with curiosity, many School Girls and Persons used to say Hi!!!!!! Hallo!!!!!!! In the evening at 6.30 I reached in the city. It was similar Indian town the drainage water was flowing, road was of sand, small and unpainted houses, no high buildings and much much more I missed India. I thought of calling Sharon but I didn’t have Kip (Lao currency). I saw a phone booth there was a person in side the booth, I waited outside of the phone booth. When he came out I asked him if he has Kip. He knew little English he told me I should have phone card. But I did not have the card, the person helped me and asked the number. We tried two three times using his card but I couldn’t get any one on that number. I tried many times but the number was not working. I thanked the person then he suggested me to go to India Guest house. It was three-km more so I got in to a mini bus asked whether he knew the India Guest house. I paid him 20 Bath and he returned me 1000 Kip. I was happy to see the currency and that to in thousands. I contacted Mr. Najim owner of India Guest house and one of the famous personalities in Laos. I explained him and requested for accommodation it was a broken building and there were few rooms. I got a room, which could not be locked. It was congested and suffocating but for me it was good. There were few Sri Lankan persons and a Pakistani in the guest house. They told me they would go to Canada and the Pakistani man was the agent who would send them to Canada. They were all Tamil persons and ran from Sri Lanka. Vientiane population is approximately 264,277, is the capital and largest city of Laos. It lies on the Mekong River near the border between Thailand and Laos. Vientiane is an important trading centre. It has an airport, and ferryboats link the city with a railway that runs south from nearby Nong Khai, Thailand, to Bangkok, Thailand. River transportation connects Vientiane with towns along the Mekong. Vientiane formed part of the Kingdom of Lan Xang (old name of Laos) in the 1300's. During the 1700's, it became an independent kingdom. Siam (old name of Thailand) annexed the Kingdom of Vientiane in the early 1800's. The French made it part of Laos in 1893 and governed it as part of French Indochina until 1954, when Laos became an independent nation. 2nd Day It was heavily raining in the morning, at 8.30 I called Sharon but she was not in the office I kept the message for her. When she got the message she came down with her husband to Najim’s guest house. Then both we moved to the office on foot in rain. The office was not very far. She told me that she would be going to Australia the next day, so she would not be able to help me in Laos. I met Mr. Robert Tizard WWF project director and whole staff. I told my plan of work in Vientiane. Later Sharon dropped me at the Indian Embassy and invited me for dinner at her house, she gave me her address and left. I met second Secretary Mr. Reddy who allowed me to stay in a room, which was empty and even staff provided financial support too. Three more staff members were living inside the Embassy Campus. In the evening around 4 O’clock I went to Sharon’s house, Sharon was busy in packing, as she would go to Australia. I spent time with another family (they would be staying in absence of Sharon and John) from New Zealand mother and daughter. The girl was may be of just 13 years but was very talented. Both they were staying in Tha Khaek they asked me to come to their house to stay during walk, as I would walk through Tha Khaek. I got their address and spent time talking a lot on Indian culture and environment. John (Sharon’s husband) ordered Indian food for dinner from Nazim’s Restaurant (Famous Indian food restaurant in Vientiane). We all enjoyed the dinner and then at 10 O’clock I came back. 3rd Day Purposely I didn’t visited Vietnam Embassy because I didn’t want to tell them about the expedition otherwise I would have been in trouble. And once they refuse the visa then the end of expedition. So I was not wanted to do any thing silly, I was in touch with WWF-Vietnam and left everything on them. They were also trying a lot but they wanted to have some time. First my plan was to walk to south of Laos and enter Vietnam by Lao Bao (Laos-Vietnam Border) but because of visa problem I decided to do other way round. Go by bus to Southern Laos and walk up to Vientiane get visa and move to Hanoi. It would help WWF-Vietnam to do visa work and they got approximately one-month time. I got two different letters from Indian High Commission in Lao local language, one similar to the one like Thai language letter (Hindu Samaj) and other one for schools. Regarding Language, the official language of Laos is Lao, as spoken and written in Vientiane. As an official language, it has successfully become the lingua franca between all Lao and non-Lao ethnic groups in Laos. There are five main dialects in the country, each of which can be divided into further subdialects. All Lao dialects are closely related to the languages spoken in Thailand, northern Myanmar and pockets of China's Yunnan Province. Sharon arranged for the interview with “Vientiane Times” famous News Paper in Laos. I met two nice persons from Kirloskar, as the Kirloskar has service Engineers In Laos for their water pump machines. One Mr. Shriniwas Amrapurkar (Pune) and other was Mr. Gaurav Bhalla (Delhi). I met them in embassy at one of the family’s house last night, as they had family relations with them. They were of similar age as mine, jolly persons and very fast we became very good friends. In Vientiane Indian Association supported me financially. 4-5th Day It was 25th September, one of the Embassy staff took me to Buddha Park by his car, the park was around 30 Km. It was unbelievable and I was surprised to see many giant statues of Buddha as well as Ganapati, Shankar, Parvati and other Hindu God and Goddess. I was really shocked to see those Hindu God and Goddess’ statue. Because all these countries are Buddhist countries even you will hardly find people warship Hindu God and Goddess. You can find Indian Culture similarities in this Park. The area is not very big but it’s good to visit and spent some time at the bank of the Mekong River. Later we visited Pha That Luang a temple and a Museum in Vientiane. In the evening I went to a Photoshop and gave a film roll for developing and printing. Vientiane was very expensive I paid around 50,000 K. I realized that I would have done it in Thailand, as it would have cost me much cheaper. God is really great and because I believed in God, God created such situations always that solved my problems or God made it very easy. As I wrote above about my plan (to walk to south of Lao and enter Vietnam but because of visa problem I decided to do other way round. Go by bus to Southern Laos and walks up to Vientiane, get visa and move to Hanoi.) What a co-incidence it was. The Kirloskar persons were supposed to move on Sunday the 26th evening to Pakse. It comes under Champasak Province, the southern end of Laos around 700 Km from Vientiane, for their work few water pump machines to repair and even I was suppose to move on the same day but in the morning. Those persons told me that they would drop me in Pakse. So it was God’s wish that I should go with them. One more thing was good that I could study and know the route and places for spending nights for return journey. 6th Day So I decided to go with them but instead of Sunday evening we left on Monday morning. Sunday we all enjoyed roaming around the city and meeting few Indians in their Toyota Car. On 27th morning we moved to Pakse in the same Car. During journey I came to know more about both of them. Mr. Shree was staying in Laos since last two years and could speak very good Lao language. The other one was Mr. Gaurav who was there for just two months and already completed more than a month. I enjoyed the beauty of the nature Laos is one of the richest country in terms of natural beauty. Shree told me that North Laos is much more beautiful than the south. I could imagine how beautiful would be North when he told and showed few pictures of Northern Laos. On the way in Tha Khaek we stopped at an Indian’s house and friend of Shree, Mr. Abhi Sarkar who was working for UNDP Laos. We had lunch at his house and moved ahead. Most of the route the road was damaged and it took lot of time. Again 200 Km before Pakse, we stopped and had snacks because we had lunch at around 5 O’clock. The condition of the road for more 200-Km was the worst road I have ever been on in my life. Potholes that swallowed the body, I felt it’s better to walk such bounces we used to get. More over it was nighttime, the driver could not see the path clearly so suddenly sometimes we used to get lifted almost 1 feet of our seat. The only remaining was to get hit the upper body of the car. We felt like we were on adventurous ride because rainfall started and the road become worst of worst. At once we really fought to come out from a pothole, as it was slippery because of water. We got wet in rain to put stones in the potholes for coming out. Those persons joked, one of them said, “We are facing problems as if we are on an adventure tour.” The other person said, “it’s because of the adventurous person (pointing on me) traveling with us and so the problems are followed to him.” At last adventure ended at midnight at 2 a.m. We reached Pakse and got into a guest house everybody was tired so immediately we slept. 7th Day Next day I spent time with them roaming around the city and doing their work. They were really great persons I enjoyed a lot with them had a variety of Laotian food even they took me to the Cafes (Pubs) at night. I would not have visited Pubs because it needs lot of money and even you get more prose in the Pubs and I was wanted to be away from them. I knew in all these countries many people are affected by HIV Aids, more over I have my girl friend in India and she wouldn’t like it. So why to break her trust and spend time with these dirty girls. People who supported me financially, their money was hard earned and it has to use for good work not for doing sin and dirty enjoyment. But those persons wanted me to show the life of Laotian and enjoy little other than expedition. I danced and sung a Hindi song too. In the pubs you will find one or two Hindi songs will be there. When I heard it first time I surprised and was so excited, a girl was singing that song and even the music was same. The songs were famous and Laotians used to dance on the song. Traditional culture in Laos has been heavily influenced by various strains of Khmer, Vietnamese and Thai cultures. The lowland Lao share the same ancestry as many Thai tribes, so the similarities between Lao and Thai culture are especially strong. This can be seen in Lao sculpture, classical music, dance-dramas and cuisine. Lao folk music is more indigenous, based around the khaen (a double row of bamboo reeds fitted into a hardwood sound box). Folk music is often accompanied by dancing or bawdy theatre. The focus of most traditional art has been primarily religious and includes wats (temples), stupas and several distinctively Lao representations of Buddha. The Lao remain skilful carvers and weavers, but traditional silversmithing and goldsmithing are declining arts. 8th Day It was 29th of September, I got to visit an historical place VAAT PHO Temple with Shree and Gaurav. It was ancient temple and there was story behind it. There was a king who was wanted to build a temple. Lots of people were working for it. But there was another King across the river (Now Thailand and the city Nakhon Phen) was also building a temple. It was like competition amongst both. VAAT PHO King used to send the messenger to check and to see that how much work completed. But whosever used to go they never comes back. So one day the King has sent a believer and asked him to find out the reason. He saw many young girls were working to build the temple but the important thing was they were necked and found all those messengers helping those girls for construction. When the special messenger the believer, explained the story to the King. He got depressed and hit his left hand on the chest and killed himself. The temple is still incomplete and now whatever half portion was built is not safe and would collapse. It was really beautiful and memorable historical place. The King is having a statue showing his left hand hitting the chest. 9th Day On 30th of September I left Pakse but not by walk because the problem was with the road and villages. Shree and other local people suggested that I should not walk through that road. It was lonely and very less habitation. So it’s better to go by bus. So I reached Seno by bus but walked little and faced problems with the Dogs. I stayed in a hotel it was a small village but when I took a round in the village I found lots of girls used to say “Sabai diiiiiii”. Actually “Sabai di” means Namaskar it’s like wishing a person does not matter what time it is (Morning, Afternoon or Evening). I used to feel proud on me the way they used to look at me and I used to feel like a “Famous Star” of the Hollywood walking and the girls became crazy for me. They used to laugh and show their hand to me. It was really exciting experience. I have got very different experience in Laos. In Seno when I approached to the Police Station, the Police were afraid of writing anything on my record book. It became such a big issue that whole Police Station came to know about me. Everybody was going through the Record Book but nobody was able to understand what I want. I explained it in such a easy language that any one would have understood, even not by talk I tried to explain them with the body language and previous records of Police Stations. I was going from one officer to other and when I tried to leave and decided not to take any stamp or anything then those Police were not ready to leave me. Lots of language problem I faced there. When I contacted the lower grade Policeman who pretended as if he knew very good English and took me to his Boss where he explained, God knows what he explained to his boss that his boss sent us to Savannakhet (Main town of the province and was around 40 Km). I was trying to convince them that ok forget about it. I do not want any stamp or anything, But those stupid used to think that they are wise and even after shouting a lot they took me to Savannakhet, at the Immigration Office. There I explained the Immigration officer who knew English and he then explained to those stupid Policemen. They dropped me back to Seno without writing anything on the Record book. They were so afraid of writing anything on the Record book as if something would have happen to them or they would be in trouble. No body was interested in writing. 10th Day Next day I spent in Seno, visited Seno High School but even after waiting a lot I could not speak with the students. Again language problem, actually I could not meet the English teacher otherwise I would have got the permission easily and would have delivered the first speech in Laos. 11-12th Day On 2nd October, I reached Savannakhet, in the evening at 5.00 p.m. visited Police Station, but I was surprised the Police Station was closed? It was First country I found that Police do have holidays on Saturdays and Sundays. There were few Policemen staying in the campus. I enquired with them but similar language problem and that time I decided not to go in deep and forget about the stamp, as I thought the Police would know English because it was the main town of the Province. Even I avoided going to the Immigration offfice that I visited just two days back. I found the country was similar to Sri Lanka, poor people and every after some distance you get fruit stalls on the highway. Very few inhabitant places even people are so good that they won’t try to trouble, rather they do not dare because many a times I have experienced that those people are the scariest people. It was the city situated at the bank of Mekong and I could see Thailand from this end. I spent nice time with the foreighners those who were staying in the same hotel. Whole Sunday I spent with a young couple from England and was there for vacation. 13th Day On Monday I moved out from the hotel carrying Posters and Stickers. I enquired for the High School and people guided me to a school that was two-km from the hotel. I hope, at least I could deliver first speech in Laos after long time. I reached the school contacted English teacher and showed him the letter of WWF and Indian Embassy (which explains about the expedition, purpose and request to the Schools, to allow speech in their school.) The teacher was very good, he asked me to wait for the Director and I waited but she didn’t come in time so the English teacher took me in his class. I found hardly few students understand English. It was my first school in Laos and first speech in a very different way. When I found the students do not understand English, I explained them by drawing on the board. I got the complaint from the students that I should speak slowly. It was first time for them to catch an Indian accent or pronunciation, which was totally different. I delivered the speech by using very simple English, as it is my speech was always in simple English but then I spoke slowly so that student could catch the accent more over I used to ask them “Khaooo Jaiiiii” means Understand? I used to get positive reply and the students used to clap and laugh for talking in their language. Sometimes even the English teacher translated. I used to write on the board and draw pictures to explain them in the better way. I enjoyed very much with the students. The speech was really interactive. The way I delivered the speech was first time in my expedition. There was lot of involvement with the students. I was satisfied with the speech and it was really very good speech. After the speech girls used to ask about the age, girl friend, marriage and many other personal details. Off course the girls were beautiful. Girls were in love with me but when I used to tell them that I have a girl friend then they used to feel jealous. The atmosphere was very friendly. I got many compliments like one girl said, “you are very beautiful”, another said, “My smile is very beautiful”, one more said, “Your teeth are very white” and what not. Those girls made me mad and I was missing my girlfriend badly. I spent almost an hour in the class. Later the Director also came. Director was a lady I had a talk with her. English teacher was very much impressed with the talk and friendly ness with the students. Even the teacher asked me about my girlfriend. He explained the Director about the talk and my expedition. She asked me if I want to talk to more students. I said woooww it would be great, I requested her to gather senior students who would understand English. With in 10 minutes she arranged and asked me to come. We went to a hall there were around 100 students and were little good in English. I delivered the similar speech by drawing on the board with the help of the English teacher. Spent an hour there too, the same response from the students and same questions were asked by the girls and boys. Before leaving the School lots of girls asked for autograph and address. I said goodbye to them and moved back after spending very good time with the students. In Laos you would spend minimum around 8,000 Kip, for not good but enough food and for hotel accommodation minimum cheap hotel would cost you for 20,000 Kip 14th Day Next day, I moved to Sebangfai, it was around 53 Km from Savannakhet. On the highway I have seen many habitant places. I got farms and it was the first country I saw farmers, they do not cut the trees in their farms. I have seen in all previous five countries, if there are farms, there you won’t find even a single tree only the crops for kilometers. Whereas in Laos there were crops in the farms but in between the crops there were lots of trees. On the fruit stalls mostly you find girls or married women and sometimes, old women. I used to take rest at the stall, eating fruits and chatting with the beautiful girls or women. Many a times I got compliments from them. I used to say Ooooops!!!! In India nobody means girls looks at me but in those countries girls were in love with me and they were crazy. I reached Sebangfai in the evening it was again a small town. I got a hotel to stay and during dinner I got a girl named “Mimi”, she was Laotians but staying in the states and was there for the holidays. I had a very nice talk with her. I explained her about the expedition and requested if she helps me to deliver the speech in any school in Sebangfai. She replied positively and left. I did not finish my dinner but the girl “Mimi” came and told me that she spoke to the school Principal and he allowed to talk. She even told me that she would help in interpreting. 15th Day It was 6th October, I left towards the school with Mimi, as soon as we reached in to the school all students were looking at us. It was assembly time and the Principal has invited the Dist. Education Officer also. It was like an official program where they welcomed me in their traditional way and after Mimi introduced a little I took over and started the speech. It was a open ground and there were around 500 students sitting in front of me. Mimi was not confident to talk in front of so many students but then she managed very well. I got a black board on which I used to draw and explain in very easy language and slowly (as everywhere students faced difficulty of Indian pronunciation or my accent.) Sometimes I even used to write difficult words on the board and English teacher used to write the meaning of that word in Lao language below the English word. I really used to enjoy during speech and I found that day by day my speech was getting better and better with additional information on the subject. I have got the same response from the students as it was before in Savvannakhet. There was a river called Sebangfai River. After lunch I spent almost two hours at the bank of the river. There were few other people sitting I tried to talk with them. It was almost 15 days that I spent in Lao and in those days I learnt a lot (again enough to survive). Lao language is similar to Thai and most of the people understand Thai language, as they get to see Thai TV Channels. 16th Day Every time in each town, I was meeting good people and they used to help me for the speech. Today also I visited one more school and got the same response. Rest of the day I spent with Mimi, her cousin Tao, who was more beautiful then Mimi and family. Both they wanted to show the village. So I went with them sat at the bank of the river chatting about Indian people, culture, environment and lot. There she wrote a word when we were talking about the hitchhiking part in Lao. Tao asked how many problems I would have faced for hitchhiking in Lao. But in Lao till Sebangfai I didn’t hitchhike (Except those Indian persons help) and told her in future definitely I would hitchhike. What she did, she wrote a word in Lao language for hitchhiking and told me that whenever I need to hitchhike just show the paper to the people, they would help. She was so nice and cared me. I had lunch at their house there they prepared “Khao Phat” (fried rice) as Mimi knew foreigners do not like Sticky rice. Rice is the foundation for all Lao meals, and almost all dishes are cooked with fresh ingredients such as vegetables, freshwater fish, poultry, duck, pork, beef or water buffalo. Lime juice, lemon grass and fresh coriander give the food its characteristic tang, and various fermented fish concoctions are used to salt the food. Hot chillies, garlic, mint, ground peanuts, tamarind juice, ginger and coconut milk are other seasonings. Dishes are often served with an accompanying plate of lettuce, mint, coriander, mung-bean sprouts, lime wedges or basil - diners then create their own lettuce-wrapped tidbits. All family members were in love with me and wanted to talk to me, wanted to spend time with me. But because of language problem I could not speak much. I learnt little from one page phrase book, which I got it from a tourist information book. [Tam Ruat (Police) Khaooo Jaiii (Understand?), Bo Khaooo Jaii (Not understand), Bo Pi Nyang (No problem), Sabaii Di (like Namaskar), Khop Chai (Thank You), La Kawn (Good Bye), Kin Khao (mostly the word used for sticky rice) and lot more]. I could understand little by language but more was from their Body Language and with guess after catching one or two words. I played Badminton for more than an hour with Tao, the cousin. I played with her and enjoyed a lot she was in love with me but I told about my girlfriend when she asked me. God was providing so much of love to me that I really thanked a lot. I could feel the feelings those girls develop in such a short time but at the same time I did not wanted to Kip them in dark, unnecessary to hurt them. They should not involve themselves much and think only about a good friendship. Because I knew what love is as I deeply love some one in India. 17th Day After spending very good time with Mimi and Tao I moved ahead, Tha Khaek was just 46 Km from Sebangfai. I thanked Mimi and her sister everyone who were close friend of mine. It was again a very good walk people used to stare at me, few school students used to talk to me in English. Mostly I used to have “wai-wai” (noodles) could be eaten without cooking it was very tasty and salty. While walking the only problem was shoulder pain. Yesterday I played badminton with Tao and because of that the shoulders were paining. In the evening after reaching Tha Khaek I called up Mr. Robin whose wife Jude and daughter Chloie met me in Vientiane at Sharon’s house (the WWF girl) they gave me their phone number to contact. But no body was at home as bell was ringing but no one was picking up the receiver. Then I went to Post office to find out his address considering he might be amongst few known foreigners to the Postmen and even try to get the address by the P. O. Box number. But the Post office was closed. I was in trouble and was searching for an English speaking person. I was in the market and I saw a Toyota Car (Vehicle), by looking at it, I understood I would get a foreigner. It was of UXO Lao an NGO (It’s an NGO, works in Laos for finding out the bombs, shells and mines dropped in Lao during Vietnam war by USA.) I got an Australian fat man first straight way I asked him if he knows Mr. Robin from New Zealand. He replied, “yes” I was so happy to meet him I explained about the expedition and requested to take me to Mr. Robin. He tried to call him by his mobile but when he couldn’t get him after calling at two-three places, he took me at the river side and tried to find him there but even he was not there at last I requested him to drop me at his house. His house was locked I thanked the Australian man and waited for Mr. Robin out side the gate. After an hour he came home. He was in his car I did not had to explain much simply I gave reference of his wife, daughter and Sharon. He welcomed and told me, his wife and daughter had gone to Europe. He opened a guest room and after sometime we spent time chatting on expedition experiences. He was very much impressed asked for food but there was nothing at home except noodles. I could not have enough food as he was alone and had dinner outside. He was having Lap Top with him, he showed me CD’s on Ozone and Global Warming. I watched them and got few unknown points for my speech. I had painkiller tablet for shoulder pain and slept. 18th Day Mr. Robin knew few schools but he was having his own work too. I told him not to worry about me after breakfast he dropped me at a school but I didn’t get English teacher so I moved to another school. It was Tha Khaek High School, I got two young female teachers one of them was good in English. She helped me a lot she spoke to the director and got the permission to talk with the students. I delivered the speech in two classes and similar kind of response. The teacher was very happy and said, “It was good to listen a good speech and students got to hear an Indian accent.” After that she told me if I could come back in the afternoon to deliver the speech in other classes. I replied her that my aim is to spread the message so no matter how many times I deliver talk in a day. I had lunch in the hotel and came back to school. There was still time so I spent some time with the one teacher. She was very good, was much younger to me and was studying in the university. She was highly impressed by my talk when the other teacher came we all went to almost one and half Km on their bike at the technical division. There also I delivered the talk in two classes. I spoke four times in a day the maximum times I ever delivered the speech in a day and it satisfied me a lot. Those girls dropped me back to the school. The director gave me a letter wishing best luck for my journey. The youngest teacher Keong asked me for dinner at the bank of the famous Mekong River. I knew Robin was not at home he told me that he would go to Thailand for spending holiday i.e. Saturday and would come on Sunday afternoon. New Zealanders do not require visa for Thailand but passport is must. He gave me the keys of the house. So I promised Keong for dinner. In the evening she came to Robin’s house and picked me, we went at the bank of the Mekong River. She told me that Mekong River is the largest river on the Indochinese peninsula. The Mekong is about 4,000 kilometres long. It flows southeastward from China's Qinghai province and forms part of the boundary between Thailand and Laos. The river crosses Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam before it empties into the China Sea near Ho Chi Minh City. In the region of the lower delta, the Mekong is known as the Sai Gon River. Ships can sail only about 550 kilometres up the Mekong. Farther inland, the river is interrupted by rapids and sand bars. We had very good dinner at the bank of the river. Other side it was Thailand, Nakhon Phanom city where Mr. Robin would stay in the hotel. It was looking beautiful we could see the big buildings with full of lightings. I believe the distance (width) might be not more than half Km as we could see the city clearly. It was amazing and beautiful night scene. Laos was like a hut opposite to a big Bungalow. Mekong was flowing between rich and poor. We spent almost two hours at the bank of the river and I really enjoyed the evening it was so romantic that I missed my girl friend a lot. Keong asked me if I want to go to pub for dance. I replied, “No, nobody is at home and Mr. Robin asked me to take care as the back door I kept open for the cats (Chloei Mr. Robin’s daughter, loves those cats a lot they were twins and she found them at their gate of the house).” With her help I exchanged around 25 US$ where as one US$ was equals to around 6,000 Kip. So I got around 150,000 Kip. She dropped me back where as I paid the bill and the bill Oh!!!! God in that money (bill) I would have traveled for at least two days. Since then I decided not to promise any girl for Lunch or Dinner. I thanked her for helping me in getting exchange I was alone with the cats at home and slept much early. 19th Day It was Sunday the 10th of October. I went to one of the oldest wat (temple) on bicycle but I did not like it. It was as simple as the one like ordinary. No maintenance even though there were many monks staying in the wat. On the way back I bought two eggs and bread for breakfast. In the afternoon Mr. Robin came back at 3 O’clock. He brought the News Paper where I got the news about India after long time. When Mr. Robin checked the mail, there was a mail for me stating WWF-Vietnam failed to do the visa work through government but would try in a different way. I was little depress I always had to fight for getting, for achieving but after hard work and running behind the job I always got the fruit. (I gave Mr. Robin’s e-mail ID on very first day when I came at his house to know the visa status from WWF-Vietnam) In the evening we prepared Chicken, which Mr. Robin bought it from Thailand. One of his friends came, Mr. Pol from England for dinner. Mr. Robin introduced me to Mr. Pol and as usual response from him. When people come to know about the expedition they praise and ask many questions about the expedition. I had beer with them during dinner and at night I watched a movie, “The Truman Show” I liked that movie very much and I would rate that movie as number one. It was the best of best and greatest movie I ever seen in my life. Actor was Jim Carry the movie was directed by an Australian director and written by a New Zealander. I got a funny experience no it was not funny but one could see the height of stupidity or understanding level of few people in Laos. In a school, I contacted an English teacher, who was a stupid I ever found. He was not at all good in English even he did not understand after explaining a lot. He took me in the class which student does not study English at all and they were small. One can imagine when I could not speak Lao how the stupid teacher asked me to talk to those students. Even though I showed him the letter of WWF, which was conveying everything in Lao language. It was just impossible to talk in front of those students. I had a very tough time convincing him but he was the number one stupid. Later he took me to another class students were little elder than the previous class. They were also not studying English. I controlled my self a lot looking at the stupid teacher. I delivered the talk just by drawings and conveyed the message of planting trees. I spoke just for five minutes, as there was no point in talking where nobody understands. I just came out of the class and gave the Stickers and Posters to the stupid teacher. I was damn angry on him and his behavior. On the playground I saw few persons playing Volleyball I requested them and joined. After half an hour play I left and came back. In the evening I went on a bicycle ride with Mr. Robin. It was different experience and understood how those people like Robin enjoys their life. We bought pieces of fried fish and chicken with sticky rice for dinner. Every day I used to wash the pots at his house. I always wanted to do something for the people who used to help me so much. 20th Day I got up early, had breakfast and then knocked Mr. Robin’s door. I thanked him and moved. Every time whenever I walked from any place the school students used to wish me because by the next day whole school comes to know about me and few watch me in their school. On this highway I met a person from Japan. He was on bicycle expedition and started just 20 days back. He would travel through Vietnam (started from Ho Chi Minh City), Laos, China, Tibet, Nepal, India and would end in Calcutta. I spent some time with him knowing the purpose and work but he was not carrying any message for the world. We wished each other and moved ahead. It was Nam Thone where I reached in the evening. There was a custom check post and a Policeman knew little English he helped me for the accommodation. I got a cheap guest house and he invited me for dinner with the staff. I had Sticky Rice with delicious (hot chili) chicken. It was really good dinner. At night I spent some time at a Snooker house, watching play of the people. There I saw a kid of just 4-5 years of age and his mother she used to catch the fly’s or bees (fly’s that u see at night on the Tube light or bulb making lot of noise) by using a stick. At the top of the stick there was a plastic bag. As soon as she touches that bee the bee used to fell inside the bag and then she used to give it to the kid to put it in the other bag that he was carrying. I would have screamed, if any one would have asked me to hold the bee but I saw the kid he was having lot of bees in his bag. What he did was he plucked the legs and feathers of the bee and put it in the bag. It’s a fact I couldn’t believe it such a small person, he used to run behind her mother and cry for the bee. I asked what they do with the bees. A person replied coolly, we eat them, (yuuukk) bees are very delicious and in whole Laos everywhere you will find people run at night to collect those bees. Ehhhhhhhhhhh how it was, felt like vomiting even I saw the scene many times since I was in Laos but I was not aware people eat them. I came back and slept 21st Day Visited Nam Thone High School in the morning as it was a small village and the English teacher was not able to speak English. He suggested me to go to a Malaysian person who lives nearby just opposite to the school he speaks very good English as well as Lao. He would help me for interpreting. His name was Jelang, when I explained him about the expedition and purpose, he agreed for interpreting. We both came back to the school, the school Principal arranged a hall and gathered only senior students. Mr. Jelang did his job quite nicely and really he explained very well. The students as usual love and respected a lot. I thanked Mr. Jelang, he wished me for the journey. Later I spent most of the day knowing about the village and enjoyed the beauty of the nature. 22nd Day I moved to the next destination and that was Paksan I enjoyed each day with the Laotian. With the help of hitchhiking I reached Paksan in the evening. I stayed in a guest house which was very expensive I ever stayed in Laos 40,000 K. I came out for the dinner and at a place, found youths playing takraw, a popular game in South-east Asia. Most of the places I saw youths playing game called takraw. The light ball is made of wicker wound round and round. The game consists in keeping the ball in the air. The players may hit it with their arms, knees, shoulders or feet-including heels. It looks simple, but demands a good deal of skill and certainly of stamina. I tried it many a places in Vietnam, Cambodia and even in Thailand, many a times! I joined them and played for an hour. When those persons came to know about me they told me about Volunteers from England. I asked for address but one of them drew a map and asked me to follow the same. Even foreigners could be tress out in a small town and many people knew them. It was already getting dark and their house was more than three Km from the guest house but I was just a Km away from their house. The only problem, his house was little inside and while going my leg sank in a dirty pond. Uhhhhhhhhhh but still I moved ahead and knocked the door, Mr. Robin (another Robin) and Laxy (Robins wife) welcomed but were surprised to see an Indian in their door. First I showed them my leg with full of mud and requested to show the bathroom. I washed it and then spent time with both. Explained and requested if I could get their help in delivering the speech in the school. Actually both of them teach English to the teachers so he spoke to one of the schoolteacher and finalized the speech in Paksan High School. It was late night Laxy told me if I need her bicycle to go to the guest house because next day morning while going to the school I could return it, as their house was on the way to the school. I got her bicycle had dinner in the hotel and came back. 23rd Day Before I go to the school I returned Laxy’s bicycle and met Mr. Sompasong in Paksan High School with whom Robin spoke last night. He welcomed me and arranged speech in the meeting hall. It was a very big hall where around 500 students were gathered. I got the same response from those students as it was in other places in Laos. While returning back to the guest house I visited Laxy again and thanked her for the help. She gave me a book, which took many days to finish it. The name of the book was “Third Class Ticket” it was based on the true story of a Bengali Woman who gave her whole wealth to show the India to her village people. It was very good story written by an English lady, who traveled with those villagers. 24th Day Everyday during breakfast mostly I used to have bread with Jam that I bought it in Thailand and some times noodles or snacks and fruits also. What food I used to get it was sticky rice in the villages and fried rice (Khao Phat) in the town. Food was very much expensive then Thailand. I believe the maximum money I ever spent in Laos because of hotel accommodation and Food. I never compromised with food. Daily expense for food was around 25,000 K and 40,000 K on the day I walk. The hotel expenses 20,000 K per day. So Laos was very much expensive for me. Not in any other country I spent so much money. There was one more reason that there was no Rotary Club and no help of Police. In the evening I played Table Tennis with those yesterday’s persons. I came back in the guest house where the hotel owner introduced me to one of his relatives and he was from Canada. He was good in English so he came to know more about me. Even they were talking a lot about their business. I spent very good time with them had dinner in the hotel and slept. 25th Day Before leaving the guest house next day I paid the bill. I paid just 40,000 K for two nights where as I was supposed to pay him 80,000 K. But purposely I didn’t paid actually everywhere in all the places I paid 20,000 K for a night and more over many people helped me in the expedition. I met his relative from Canada and understood that he was a rich man. So if I cheat him little It would not be a cheating in real mean. Obviously when he saw 40,000 K, he asked me more 40,000. I behaved as if I fixed up 40,000 K for two nights and showed the shocking expression on my face. He laughed and said “Bo pi Nyang” (No problem) he was really kind and might have understood that I played with him. When I came out I really felt bad but in other way I was even laughing thinking he might have understood. Sometimes when I remember the incident I laugh alone. On the highway I used to get plenty of trees not exactly besides the road but little inside and away from the road. There were no trees on the main road where I could take rest but the fruit stalls were the best places where I used to have fruits, enjoy chat with girls, women and children’s. (Not much men because the stalls were run by the girls or by women’s) I used to get encouragement from them while walking. Not only that for girls I was super star even I used to feel proud on myself. On the way I met a person on the bike, he knew little English and saw me while going somewhere in the morning and found me again walking in the afternoon. He was so excited he requested me to stop and asked. I turned back and showed him the banner. [As you know the story behind the banners (one square feet) from Nepal, on which there was a picture of the Tree and little space for writing. I wrote my message i.e. “Save earth” on the top of the tree and “Plant trees” at the bottom of the tree on the Sticking last in Lao language, as I was going to do it in each country in their local language.] He read it and shook my hand, he said, “My sister’s shop is near, if you join us for lunch she would feel happy.” I denied first but later he forced me and took me in a market. His name was Nobang, something like that, there were many shop’s we sat down at his sister’s shop. There I got to see the love, unity and joy all together. All the shopkeepers (girls and women) gathered at a place under the shadow. Brought their own tiffin and sat down. There were around 8-10 shopkeepers. I really enjoyed with them each one was asking whether I am married or not when they got the answer from me, they started pointing out to each other and were asking me with which one I would like to marry, who is beautiful etc. I found Laotian eat very much chili. I had variety of food with them and it was delicious. I had to hitchhike for reaching Ban Phaw the next destination before Vientiane. There I got the check post and met an Officer who was good in English. I explained him and requested to help but there was no hotel or guest house. So he spoke to the head of the Village and explained him about me. I got the accommodation at one of the kind forest officer’s house. But he did not know English at all and there I faced lot of difficulties. It was already 9 O’clock they were having their dinner and asked me to join. I was hungry, had very delicious chatni with sticky rice. (Next day I vomited when I came to know that I had mice last night in the dinner uuuuuuuu I could not eat anything till next day evening) I got lot of respect at his house. But I got really a funny experience before I go to sleep at night at 10.00 I was wanted to go for latrine so I asked them, but real language problem, I got stuck even body language was just impossible because they might have taken it in other way. I tried a lot to make them understand but it was just impossible even they were trying a lot to know what I want. I laugh at times when I remember. What I did, I was having a water bottle with me, first I saw whether any female sitting around or not and then showed. I took the bottle opened it and hold it in such a way that water came out from the bottle and the person started laughing. Oh!!!!!!!!! My God what an experience it was, finally I got the success to make him understand. He was just laughing, he showed me the toilet and told each one in the family. After coming back everybody even I was laughing. 26th Day I thanked the family after spending a night and moved towards Vientiane. In the evening I reached Vientiane before 5 O’clock by walk and hitchhiking and straight way went to Indian Embassy. Security Guard Mr. Suresh spoke to Mr. Reddy Second Secretary, as I already requested him for the stay after coming back from the journey even he knew that I would require time to get the visa for Vietnam. He told Mr. Suresh to allow me to stay in the same room where I stayed last time. Whole evening I spent time with the Embassy staff with Mr. Suresh, Mr. Prashant and Mr. Mahesh we had dinner together. At night I enjoyed movie on television. 27th Day After spending so many days I got to know Laotian Culture. About 60% of Lao, mainly the lowland Lao and a sprinkling of Thai tribes, are Theravada Buddhists. Every Lao Buddhist male is expected to become a monk for a short period of his life, usually between school and starting a career or getting married. The main non-Buddhist 'religion' is phii worship, a spirit cult, which is officially banned. Hmong/Mien tribes practise animism and ancestral worship, and some follow a Christian version of the cargo cult, believing Jesus Christ will arrive in a jeep, dressed in combat fatigues. A small number of Lao - mostly the French-educated elite - are Christians. Laos is the least developed and most enigmatic of the three former French Indochinese states. A ruinous sequence of colonial domination, internecine conflict and dogmatic socialism finally brought the country to its knees in the 1970s, and almost ten per cent of the population left. Now, after a decade and a half of isolation from the outside world, this landlocked, sparsely populated country is enjoying peace, stabilising its political and economic structures and admitting foreign visitors. The lack of foreign influence offers travellers an unparalleled glimpse of traditional South-East Asian life. From the fertile lowlands of the Mekong River valley to the rugged Annamite highlands, travellers who have made it to Laos tend to agree that this country is the highlight of South-East Asia. It was 18th of October I was back in Vientiane, in the morning first work I did contacted Mr. Reddy and got the reference letter for Vietnam. I went to Vietnam Embassy and submitted the application form with the hope that God would help because WWF- Vietnam was failed to do anything for me. David from WWF- Vietnam told me that they were trying but I left everything on God. I was tensed and was not sure because the receptionist accepted only application form and asked for US$ 55 the visa fees, but without Passport. I was happy only because she took money. She asked me to come on 21st. My visa was valid only up to 21st of October in Laos so there was need of extension. I went to Immigration office and submitted the Passport for the extension until 25th of October. I went to Vientiane Times and got the News paper dated 5-7 October and saw my News, it was very big news and conveyed a lot to the people of Laos to take care of our mother earth. I had been to WWF office Sharon was not there but Robert Tizard (WWF-Lao Project Director) I shared the experiences in Laos. He supported me financially also. When I told him about the school experience, he introduced me to Dr. Claus he was working with an NGO and his work was similar to what I do awareness amongst people. Make people aware about the environmental problems and ask them to take care of it. He has projects and University students help him for the projects. He told me to come with him to deliver the speech in the University where he would arrange. He asked me to come to the office next day morning at 11 O’clock when I replied positively. In the afternoon when I was in the office of the Indian Embassy, I met a girl Shefali Sharma who was Indian by birth but an American citizen. She was also working for Environment. We were just talking to each other I told her about the expedition and future plan. She was very much interested in my future plan and wanted to spend some more time, so she asked if I could come for the dinner next day, I promised her for the dinner. I collected my Passport with the extension till 25th of October. Then I surfed Internet and sent a message to Mr. David and Mr. Quang (who was doing the visa work for me) of submission of the application form at the Vietnam Embassy and requested to do something as early as possible. 28th Day One-day morning I left with one of the Embassy staff Mr. Mahesh whose daughter was studying in International School. I carried some Posters and Stickers to distribute to the school but it was very strict no body could meet the Director of the school without prior permission. I spoke to the Director’s secretary and explained her. She asked me to take the appointment so I asked her what time? She spoke to the Director and got the appointment of next day at 9 O’clock. I moved back with Mr. Mahesh and requested him to drop me at Vientiane High School. I got a very bad experience, off course it’s because of few people many people cannot do lot for our mother earth. Actually in Vientiane High School I contacted the Director and requested for the permission. He allowed me then after gathering students in a big hall I started the talk but after ten minutes the stupid director interrupted and said your time finished, I requested him to wait for few more minutes to complete the talk in short. But he did not listen still I gave the Posters and Stickers to the school and came out of the class. The students felt so bad on their Director’s behavior because they found the speech was interesting. Few students came out when the Director left and said sorry. I could see the disappointment on the students’ face. It was around 11 O’clock I got Dr. Claus little late in his office. Both we went to the University that was around 12 Km. There were around 20 Students, they run a Nature club and plan to open a plant nursery. I had a different talk to those students and asked them to do the same way as I do. Visit schools talk to the students, make them aware and help our mother earth. In the evening I moved to Shefali’s (yesterdays girl an American) hotel before that I bought a new film roll and printed a film roll which cost me around 60,000 K which was too expensive. Shefali was waiting for me in the hotel, both we went out for dinner spent lot of time talking about my future plan or dream and how I could achieve or fulfill my dream. She guided me a lot and gave her e-mail ID. She asked me to be in touch with her after the expedition or whenever I start work for the Plan. We had dinner at famous Nazim’s Restaurant and came back. 29th Day Next day morning I went to International School as my appointment was with the Director. All teacher and staff was from various countries, they were all polite, soft-spoken and very nice. I explained the Director and requested for the permission to speak with the students. The Director was very nice he left his Director’s chair and sat besides me on the other chair. He asked me to give a small talk or example. I gave him the example of paper wastage and trees being cut because of wasting papers. He was very impressed and appreciated a lot. He asked me more about myself and called one teacher to arrange the talk. There was half an hour for the talk the secretary took me in the café and offered snacks. When the Director and me came out of his cabin, he introduced me to everyone. Most of them were aware because they all read in the News Paper. Later a teacher took me in a class. I found those students were children’s of Embassy staff so I got various countries students to deliver the talk. But what I found amongst those students they all were manner less and I understood that those would never help to improve the conditions of our mother earth though they listen to me carefully. The teacher, who was there, he appreciated a lot and praised for the talk. After the talk the teacher offered me a glass of juice. In the evening again I surfed net in WWF where I got a mail from WWF-Vietnam from Quang, stating he has sent Visa Reference Number to Vietnam Embassy on 19th itself. I was feeling great and it was confirmed that I would be getting visa. I thanked God again and again many a times. 30th Day Another relief day the 21st October every day I was dying, every time I had to fight for visa and at the pick time before I die completely I got life. What it was, God examined and took many tests at last God found me a fighter. When I went to Vietnam Embassy early morning she asked me to come at 10.00. Again when I went at 10.00 she made me wait for long time till 11.30 I waited. I saw her sitting and chatting with the staff without doing any work. I was not alone, there were few more foreigners and the lady kept them also waiting since morning. Later the lady came and asked me to come at 2.00 I got so frustrated and was very angry on the stupid old lady but I had to keep patience unless I get the visa. I was so angry felt like I should kill her it was height. At 2.00 I reached in the office and she gave me shocking news that I won’t be getting visa. Oh! No!!!!!!!!!! It was like a heart attack for me. I got the fax of Visa Reference Number yesterday in Indian Embassy. I showed that fax to her and asked, she replied, “Oh!!!!!!!!! You are the one, I am sorry you would have showed it in the morning, you would have got the visa immediately!” I got angry damn angry on her again and thought of slapping her. It means these people work looking at the face or country and decide by their own to give or not. They do not want to check the papers and do not want to work the way they should and for the purpose they are there. Not only that even if it was so they should tell the person that the person would not get visa, unnecessary they kept waiting and ask to come everyday. If I would not have received and showed the fax these stupid would have sent me back. They do not understand at all people’s problems. Any way I was very happy to get the visa of Vietnam the 7th country of the expedition and I was very excited. I got the visa for 40 days the visa was valid up to 30th of November. 31st Day On 22nd I was having time to go to Vietnam so I thought of trying Cambodia visa. I filled up the application form and asked the lady, how much time it would take to get the visa. She told me on Monday and the day was Friday, it was not possible for me to wait until Monday so I was about to leave the office but an officer stopped me and told that I would get visa today itself at 4 O’clock. I submitted the application form paid the visa fees 25 US$ and came back happily. It was consecutive second happiest day in my expedition. I never stopped thanking God. It was all because I never gave up and this time God didn’t troubled me. At 4 O’clock I got the visa for a month. In Bangladesh first time I faced lot of problems in getting visa for Myanmar as well as Thailand and I didn’t get. But I came to Thailand after crossing the barriers and got the “on arrival” visa. In Thailand I struggled a lot for getting Laos visa and finally I got it after running behind it at the time when only two days were left to go out of Thailand. Next I fought for Vietnam visa and got it when the validity date of Laos’s visa was over. But before that I extended it for 4 days. and This time God has given me fruit of my hard work without any problem Immediately in a day I got the Cambodian visa. 32nd Day It was last day in Vientiane and On Sunday I would move towards Vietnam by Bus so I visited almost all the places those who helped me. I thanked them all everybody wished me for the journey, many of them said they would miss me even I miss them all now. I had lunch at Mr. Mahesh’s house (Embassy Staff) I could see Sharon and John again during dinner at Nazeem’s Restaurant. I really enjoyed a lot in Vientiane. 33rd Day Last night, I kept my rucksack ready and moved on the way to Vietnam. It was raining since morning and I could reach somehow up to Laxao after crossing Paksan. Actually the distance was not much but because of road and heavy rain I reached late evening. I spent a night in the hotel in Laxao. I was not having Lao Kip with me and so I was paying in US$. About Laos Official Name is Lao People's Democratic Republic. It is located in South East Asia at the centre of the Indochinese Peninsula between latitude 14-23 degrees north and longitude 100108 degrees east. France ruled Laos as part of French Indochina for more than 50 years. In 1954, an international agreement recognized Laos as an independent, neutral nation. But civil war broke out in 1960 between Laotian government troops and the Communist-led Pathet Lao (Lao Country) forces. Another international agreement in 1962 failed to settle the differences, and fighting continued throughout the 1960's and early 1970's. In 1975, the Pathet Lao won the war and took control of Laos. Laos has an eastern border of 1,957 km with the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, a western border of 1,730 km with the Kingdom of Thailand, a southern border of 492 km with the Kingdom of Cambodia a northern border of 416 km with the People's Republic of China and a North Western border of 230 km with the Union of Myanmar. Total area of Laos is 236,800 square kilometres, three quarters of which is mountainous and forest-covered 40 % while the country is rich in natural resources, such as mineral deposits, including 1 billion tons of high quality iron are between 60-70%, lead, gold, tin and 8200-8232 calorie/gram coal. Although the Lao P.D.R. has no direct access to the sea, it has the Mekong River, which is the main river of the country flowing north to south. In addition, there are many branch rivers, which nourish agriculture. Laos’s people use it as a power source, which supplies hydro-electric of over 18,000 MW from 57 dams. The Population of the Lao P.D.R. is approximately around 5.2 Million. And population density remains one of the lowest in the region at 23 persons per square kilometre with a population increase rate of 3.50 %. The Lao population is ethnically diverse with up to 68 different ethnic groups identified inhabiting the country, with various languages, cultures and traditions, which are classified into three groups: The first one Lao Loam, who occupy the lowlands plains and the Mekong River valley, and constituting about 56% of the total population. The Second Lao Thing, who occupies the mountain slopes, comprising about 34% of the population. The third high mountain Lao, constitute about 9% of the total population, and one per cent foreigners. Warning Laos has suddenly come over all bomb-happy and travellers are advised to avoid heavily-populated public places that might appeal to terrorists and tourists; the morning market in Ventiane for instance. Travel in rural areas, particularly Xieng Khouang Province, is complicated by ethnic conflict and banditry; generally speaking, any route that has 'special' in its name, such as the road through Xaysomboune Special Zone, has to be treated with caution. Taking drugs in foreign countries is always going to be iffy, but it's especially high-risk in Laos. reports have begiun to filter back of tourists dyign from opium overdoses. Culture About 60% of Lao, mainly the lowland Lao and a sprinkling of Thai tribes, are Theravada Buddhists. Every Lao Buddhist male is expected to become a monk for a short period of his life, usually between school and starting a career or getting married. The main non-Buddhist 'religion' is phii worship, a spirit cult, which is officially banned. Hmong/Mien tribes practise animism and ancestral worship, and some follow a Christian version of the cargo cult, believing Jesus Christ will arrive in a jeep, dressed in combat fatigues. A small number of Lao - mostly the French-educated elite - are Christians. Laos is one of the poorest and least visited countries in the world. The Lao people are known for their gentle polite nature and for their charming hospitality. The capital Vientiane is one of Asia's biggest villages, sitting on the banks of the Mekong River. To the north, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the old Royal city of Luang Prabang is home to dozens of temples and a way of life that has changed little over the years. In the south the Angkor era temple of wat Phu is one of the jewels of the Mekong. Laos is the least developed and most enigmatic of the three former French Indochinese states. A ruinous sequence of colonial domination, internecine conflict and dogmatic socialism finally brought the country to its knees in the 1970s, and almost ten per cent of the population left. Now, after a decade and a half of isolation from the outside world, this landlocked, sparsely populated country is enjoying peace, stabilising its political and economic structures and admitting foreign visitors. The lack of foreign influence offers travellers an unparalleled glimpse of traditional South-East Asian life. From the fertile lowlands of the Mekong River valley to the rugged Annamite highlands, travellers who have made it to Laos tend to agree that this country is the highlight of South-East Asia. The Currency of Laos is keep (1US$=8,000). The flag has a red horizontal stripe at the top and the bottom, and a blue horizontal stripe in the centre. A white circle appears in the centre of the flag. The red symbolizes the blood and soul of the Laotian people. The blue stands for prosperity. The white circle represents the promise of a bright future. Adopted in 1975. Environment Laos is bordered by Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, China and Myanmar (Burma). Rivers and mountains dominate the country's topography. The largest river, the Mekong (Nam Khong), runs the entire length of the country, providing fertile flood plains for agriculture and forming the country's border with Thailand. It is also Laos' main transportation artery. Over 70 per cent of the country consists of mountains and plateaus. The Annamite Chain, bordering Vietnam, runs parallel to the Mekong for half the length of the country. The rugged mountains average between 1500-3000m (4920-9840ft) in height, and at their southern extremity open up to form the Bolaven Plateau, a 10,000 sq km (6200 sq m) area that produces mountain rice, coffee, tea and other high-altitude crops. The highest mountain is Phu Bia (2819m/9246ft) in northern Laos. Two-thirds of Laos is forested and only 10 per cent of the country is considered suitable for agriculture. Given the topography, it is fortunate that Laos has one of the lowest population densities in Asia - around 18 people per sq km (about 11 per sq mi). Most of the population is settled along fertile river valleys, although there are many small tribes living in the hills. The largest population centres, Vientiane and Savannakhet, are both in the Mekong River Valley; 85 per cent of the population lives in rural areas. Despite large-scale bombing and the use of defoliants in the eastern section of the country during the US war with Vietnam, Laos has one of the most pristine ecologies in South-East Asia. Vegetation consists primarily of varieties associated with monsoon forests such as teak, Asian rosewood and bamboo. About 50 per cent of the country is covered with primary forest and another 30 per cent with secondary growth. The forests are endangered by illegal logging and slash-and-burn agriculture. Endemic animals include the concolor gibbon, snub-nosed langur, lesser panda and raccoon dog. Exotic species found in neighbouring countries are usually found in greater numbers in Laos because of the forest cover and fewer hunters. They include the Javan mongoose, Siamese hare, leopard cat, tiger, Irrawaddy dolphin, and a few Javan rhinos thought to survive in the Bolaven Plateau. There are 17 recently-opened Biodiversity Conservation Areas scattered throughout the country. The annual Asian monsoon cycle gives Laos two distinct seasons: May to October is wet, and November to April is dry. Temperatures vary according to altitude. In the Mekong River Valley, the highest temperatures occur between March and April (38°C/100°F) and the lowest between December and January (15°C/59°F). During most of the rainy season, daytime temperatures average around 29°C (84°F) in the lowlands and 25°C (77°F) in the mountain valleys. Vietnam 1st Day It was 25th of October another great day of the expedition. The Border was 36 Km and today was the last day of the Laos visa. A hotel staff told me that there would be a bus goes to border early morning so next day I moved out at 5.45 a.m. It was raining little, I went to Bus station and enquired but came to know there were no buses or not even single bus goes to the border. The tuk-tuk (A three wheeler vehicle) fellow demanded more money to drop. I said no way and moved ahead by walk. After a Kilometre I saw many trucks. I got very happy and again God helped me, if I would have walked the full distance of around 36 Km God knows whether I would have reached safely or not. I requested a truck driver to drop me up to the border but he denied, there was one more driver, who knew little Lao and I think he read the banner. He called me and told he would drop me on the border. I sat down in his truck after ten minutes, after he finished his washing and breakfast we moved. It was good that I reached on that spot early morning because all trucks were going towards Vietnam. They spent the night on that spot and one by one was moving towards the border. The person knew little English very little he was really a kind and nice person. On the way again rain started, heavy rain, as we were going up and up crossing the hills and thick forest. Looking at the route, I thanked God because it would have been really difficult and would have got in to trouble. The road was bad with lots of turns. At last we reached border at Cau Treo. It was still raining heavily and even foggy atmosphere. The Lao Immigration check post was yet to open. I waited in the office premises, the office opened at 8.30 I got the stamp on the Passport and moved towards Vietnam Immigration. It was 200-300 mtr from Lao check post. While crossing that distance I saw many more than 200 Cars were parked. You won’t believe those cars were New Brand and I was really shocked to see lying in such condition. I think they were ceased by custom. With in five minutes I took the first step in Vietnamies border, Cue troe the name of the border of Laos and Vietnam. The formalities for being admitted into Vietnam seemed diabolically complicated. Repeatedly I was shuttled back and forth through the darkness from Police to customs officers. Then, while innumerable forms were being completed, my documents were checked, Passport was checked again and again. I stood shivering out side warm offices. Suddenly a Policeman shouted to some one in another room and a beautiful young woman, wearing customs officer’s uniform, appeared besides me. I stared at her, she took one quick look at my rucksack and me and asked to take out everything out of the rucksack. When she saw, the photographs of the school speech, she enquired and then burst into good, humoured laughter, slapped me on the back and waved me towards the frontier after check up. I was having very different picture about Vietnam. It would be a city and many people would be there it would be busy check post but when I entered after completing all formalities I got totally different and opposite picture of what I expected. I was alone with rainfall and fog. I enquired with the officer about the nearest village or any transportation available to go to Vinh or Hanoi. The officer guided me the same Taxi whom I already asked and he said US$ 40 to go to Vinh. Where as Vinh was just 106 Km. I laughed and told I would not have taken so much pain if I would pay $40 to you. I would have gone by air from Vientiane to Hanoi in $70. I thought of walking but I was scared because of fog, rain and giant mountains with thick forest. Even I started walk too but the taxi drivers followed and forced me to seat inside. I told them I do not have money but those were not leaving me alone. They were behaving in such a way that I do not have any option other than going by taxi. They made me irritate. I returned back to the post and found the same truck. I showed him hand, he was so kind he just laughed looking at me and said, “Come in.” He was the man sent by God for helping me. It was still raining but the Vietnam roads were good. We were going through the hills but this time we were going down. I saw the farms in the villages the crops were full in water. It was looking like flood. The driver dropped me in Boi-Vot it was a small town and Vinh was still 20 Km. I thanked the driver and was searching for the bank for exchange. It was 12.30noon and oooooops again same situation. I was so scared of the people as if now they will rob. They were talking in Viet Vinh…. Vinh… means do you want to go Vinh? Those people followed like anything. In Vietnam first time I saw people use motorbike for carrying people from one place to other. I tried to search at least an English speaking man who would help me. Those people didn’t know English and I didn’t know Viet even I was not having phrase book or any thing so that I could have told them about the exchange. I was hungry and was desperate to get someone who knows English. I tried searching big buildings but in such a small town you hardly get big building. I was stuck and those people were always behind me. I saw a Vietnamese Flag on a two-storage building I went inside with a hope that I would get somebody who would know English. But it was very difficult to find a person speaks English in that town. I was tired and called God and my mother to help. I was scared because it was my first day and I did not know how Vietnamese are. I saw a person who looked like an Indian was sitting in a small open hotel. I caught him and asked do you know English? He replied, “Yes”. I thanked God and sat down with him. I explained him and requested to help me for exchange. His name was Mr. Kanna, he was a Malaysian but Indian origin I was very happy to meet him. He gave me 200,000 Dong and said, “you did not have to worry about exchange it would be enough for you to reach Hanoi.” He offered me lunch and after lunch he asked a motorbike person to drop me up to Vinh. He told me not to give more than 50,000 Dong. I thanked him and moved with the person on Motorbike. He dropped me at the Vinh Bus Station I paid him 50,000 Dong. There was a bus to go to Hanoi and it was only in the morning at 6 O’clock. I booked the ticket for the next day and paid 31,000 Dong only. I was not having any other option other than spending a night in Vinh. I searched for the cheap hotel but faced language problem. I went to a big hotel thinking I would get someone who would know English and got a girl at the reception. She was good in English. I requested her to help me to show any cheap hotel. She was so nice, came with me just after two three buildings there was a guest house. She spoke to the lady and got a room for 50,000 Dong I thanked her and she was the first Vietnamese kind girl I met. I paid the money and stayed in. Now I was with around 70,000 Dong. I had dinner with 20,000 Dong. 2nd Day Next day the bus timing was 4.30 a.m. so I got up early morning at 4 O’clock left the guest house before 4.30 and got in to the bus. There was a German person sitting with me just besides my seat. He was about to leave Vietnam he has already spent around two weeks in Vietnam so I got little information from him about Vietnamese people. We reached Hanoi at 11.30 He was wanted to go to his friend’s house and me to WWF office. WWF office was also on the way to his friend’s house so he dropped me near WWF office I walked a little and reached. As soon as I entered in to the office, whole WWF staff welcomed me I met Mr. Quang, Ms. Dip Hoa and David I used to get their mail. They all greeted me very happily. I was so excited to have such kind of welcome and love from every one. It was the first WWF office that I was so much attached to and God knows how I was attached with everyone. What kind of attraction was it might be because we used to mail each other many a times and we developed a different kind of relationship. I had lunch with the staff. Later I requested Quang to show me the Indian Embassy, The Indian Embassy was situated just five minutes walk able distance from WWF office. Mr. Quang asked one of the staff members to drop me. I contacted Mr. Varma Second Secretary Indian High Commission in Vietnam (Mr. Reddy from Laos Embassy, asked me to contact him as he spoke to Mr. Varma about me and told he would mail him.) he welcomed me as he knew about me still I explained him and showed my file and photographs. I did not have to explain him much. He called one of the Security Officers (Mr. Raghu) and asked him if he wish to accommodate me in his house. Mr. Raghu replied positively without any hesitation. His house was inside the Embassy Campus as it was in Laos. Mr. Raghu in the first meeting only told me that I should consider him as his brother and ask for anything if I need. I kept my rucksack, took bath and moved back to WWF office. I explained my plan and work to do in Hanoi. But David said it would be difficult to do any kind of such activity because it was communist country and I might get into trouble. Still I requested him to provide a letter in Vietnamese language, stating about the expedition and purpose of visiting schools. I spoke to Ms. Hac (one of the WWF staff) who takes care of awareness camps through schools and street shows in the city and villages. One of the News Paper Reporters took my interview in WWF office. In the evening before I leave the office Mr. Quang called me and supported financially on behalf of WWF-Vietnam. I thanked David for financial support and came back in the Embassy. There was another Security Guard Mr. Praveen Kumar who was also staying in the same house. Both were really kind and took care as if I was their brother. Mr. Raghu called his friend to introduce me he was Mr. Ranjeet from Mumbai and very nice, talkative and jolly person and Mr. Prakash. Mr. Ranjeet was an Orphan but now he has become a very big and rich person after doing lot of hard work. We spent lot of time chatting together and slept at 12 in the night. 3rd Day On 27th October, I went to WWF office, Hac has fixed up the speech in one school, before that we both visited Thailand Embassy submitted the application form the officer called me the next day at 10.30 in the morning. I was not much worried about Thailand visa because I knew I would get it looking at the Cambodian visa and Thailand, “On Arrival” visa. Later we went to a school but understood that getting into any school in Hanoi at least it would be very difficult. People are not allowed without the permission of higher authority. First two schools denied talking with the students even Hac requested on behalf of WWF. But at last as it is said that without try you won’t get success. So we got the permission in third school. The teacher arranged talk only after an hour and we got the students of 6th standard. There was a projector instead of black board. I used the projector and got the similar response or I think more because that time students run for the autograph after the speech. Ms. Hac could not believe it. When we came back in the office, Hac explained the experience of the school students and then everybody understood what kind of talk I delivered in the schools during expedition. The staff tried to call Vietnam Telivision News Reporter and many other famous News Paper Reporters. Afternoon I came back cooked rice as both Mr. Kumar and Mr. Raghu were busy in their work so I had lunch alone. Mr. Verma gave me a letter the similar one which I got in Thailand as well as in Laos in local language so that I should not face any trouble. More over that kind of letter helped me a lot in Laos when I used to go through villages. The letter was the best media to communicate with the villagers. Once they come to know about the work that I do, they come forward to help. In the evening I enjoyed roaming in Hanoi with one of the Indian Mr. Prakash. By now many Indian came to know about me so one or other used to come to meet or some times people invited me to their place. Hanoi was not a very big city. Clean road beautiful house structure, lots of girls regarding Vietnam girls I found they were crazy for Indians. It was amongst one of the peaceful Capitals that I visited. My expedition was in phases. Like first Phase was India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bhutan and Bangladesh. (Where the worry was of getting visas for Sri Lanka and Bangladesh). Second phase was Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. (Where worry was of getting visa for each country and I didn’t get visa for Myanmar but rest with lots of fighting). Third phase Malaysia and Singapore and Final phase Indonesia and Australia. 4th Day When I got the visa for Thailand I was tension free for the success of Second phase. It was 28th October, I got the Thailand visa after paying 15 US$. In WWF we had a big party during Lunch, as one of the staff Mr. Peter has completed his tenure and would go back to his home country. So it was sendoff, there I enjoyed various Vietnamese dishes and it was delicious woooooooow yaaaaaaam. I was back to enjoy vegetarian food. Veg food is “an integral part of the diet here.” Yippeee. I just had this awesome black and red bean chili onion, garlic number on rice or “lice” as we say here, and sweet and sour veggies, topped off with some Vietnamese tea and deep fried bananas with chocolate sauce. Hmmmmn. Vietnamese cooking, like most aspects of Vietnamese culture, has been strongly influenced by the Chinese. By comparison it is provincial, lacking the range and the formidable ingenuity of the Pekinese and Cantonese cuisenes. Vietnamese cuisine is especially varied - there are said to be nearly 500 different traditional dishes, ranging from exotic meats such as bat, cobra and pangolin to fantastic vegetarian creations (often prepared to replicate meat and fish dishes). However, the staple of Vietnamese cuisine is plain white rice dressed up with a plethora of vegetables, meat, fish, spices and sauces. Spring rolls and steamed rice pancakes are popular snacks, and the ubiquitous soups include eel and vermicelli, shredded chicken and bitter soups. Some of the more unusual fruits available include green dragon fruit, jujube, khaki, longan, mangosteen, pomelo, three-seed cherry and water apple. Vietnamese coffee is excellent. But there are a few specialities, which have been evolved with a great deal of dietetic insight. The best known of these is Cha Gio, with which we were served as an entrée. Cha Gio consist fundamentally of very small, highly spiced meat-rolls, which are transferred easily enough with chopsticks from the dish to one’s plate. But this is nothing more than a preliminary operation, and many dexterous manipulations follow. Two or three kinds of vegetable leaves are provided as salad, plus minute spring onions. A leaf of each kind is picked up and –this is not so easy- placed in superimposition on one’s plate and garnished with an onions, ready to receive the meat roll in the middle. And now comes the operation calling for natural skill, or years of practice, since the leaves must be wrapped neatly round the narrow cylinder of mincemeat. The Cha-Gio, now fully prepared, is lifted with the chopsticks and dowsed in the saucer of nuoc-mam at the side of one’s plate, from which, according to Ms. Hoa, an odour resembling that of tiger’s urine arises. The total operation takes the non-expert, like me, several minutes and involves as many contretemps as one would expect. On this occasion, I soon gave up the struggle, throwing dignity to the winds, and dabbled happily with my fingers. A spirit of comradeship was noticeable, a democratic kinship born in an atmosphere of common endeavour, frustration and ridicule. After the Cha Gio, came a flux of delicacies, designed undoubtedly to provoke curiosity and admiration and to provide the excuse for enormously prolonged dalliance at the table, rather than to appease gross appetites. The Vietnamese picked judiciously at the breasts of lacquered Pigeons, the sliced coxcombs and the tiny diaphanous fish. It was first time to have variety of Vietnamese food. After enjoying lunch with them at around 2 p.m. Ms. Hac and I left for the speech in one more school. It was much better school and arrangement was also very good. The projector with transparencies was on the dais and there were more than 100 students in the hall. We were carrying Posters in Viet language. We distributed posters and stickers and at the end of the speech, again the same scene. Students were rushing for autographs. It was very good that I got students from English class because here also language problem continues. The response from the student was very good and even Hac told school Principal to contact WWF for more activities in the school. Dip Hoa, who writes sometimes for News Paper. She wrote an article on me and asked for photograph. In Vietnam regarding language, the Vietnamese language (kinh) belongs to the Mon-Khmer stock, which comprises Mon (spoken in Burma) and Khmer (the language of Cambodia), as well as Khmu, Bahnar, Bru and other languages of the highlands of Vietnam. Mon-Khmer, Tai and Chinese elements are combined with many basic words derived from the monotonic Mon-Khmer languages. The most widely spoken foreign languages in Vietnam are Chinese (Cantonese and Mandarin), English, French and Russian, more or less in that order. 5th Day Next day, I saw my news in Lao Dong and in Tian Phong News Paper with very good photographs. Mr. Ranjeet picked me early morning to meet few Indians in his car. Everyone was proud on me, all wished for the journey and asked to continue the same work in future too. Mr. Ranjeet dropped me back in the Embassy. Mr. Raghu and Mr. Kumar were taking lot of care, used to ask me always if I need anything. When I went to WWF office everybody congratulated me for the news and said, “You have become the star in Hanoi”. I might have spent an hour only a Reporter came from a Magazine ‘Vietnam Review’, they started interviewing me but what a time it was, I was never so busy for the interviews. The Television Reporters came to the office with the camera but they had to wait until the Magazine Reporter finishes their interview. Then the turn came of Vietnam T.V. they interviewed and for shooting they asked me to carry the rucksack. We went in their car, I carried my rucksack and then they did shooting at a famous lake site. There was the same banner on the rucksack with Viet language (Dip Hoa helped me for writing the message in Viet). I never felt that I am a great person, people used to make me great. The staff said, “Whole Vietnam will watch me today in the News on Vietnam TV.” At night I enjoyed with all Indian friends, they took me in the Indian hotel for dinner. I had dinner with beer. We got to see my interview in the News on Vietnam TV. Then we went to a Pub also and really enjoyed a lot. I spent night with Mr. Prakash at his house. It was almost 2 O’clock of the morning when we reached at his house. 6th Day It was 30th of October Prakash and me got up late in the morning. After that I was roaming with Prakash in Hanoi city on his bike. I did little shopping, I bought a Track Pant (Waterproof) of Adidas, which costs me 4,50,000 Dong and an Umbrella because of rainy season. Even I bought a pair of Shoe that costs me 300,000. I was wanted to buy another rucksack its bottom part was damaged a lot but then thought of buying in Ho Chi Minh. and In the evening we went to see Ho Chi Minh Museum spent whole evening and enjoyed a lot. 7th Day Whole Sunday, I enjoyed with the Embassy staff for playing Cricket. There were around 25 people gathered on the ground and more than 50 were sitting in the audience. I met Pakistani’s, Sri Lankan’s, Australian, New Zealanders and many other countries. One or two persons were there from each country. Mr. Raghu told me that in coming month there were Cricket tournaments and each country has their own team. Every Sunday they enjoy Cricket as well as it was kind of get together. Mostly everybody’s family comes to see, to enjoy and to encourage all. I have seen unity amongst those people. There was no castism or countryism everyone was friend and even Pakistani were the friends of lots of Indians. I found the same thing in Laos also. I do not understand when Indians and Pakistani’s live peacefully together in other country then why Pakistan wants to fight always with India why not live peacefully and happily. We enjoyed a lot but just because of rain we had to call off the game. We had lunch, as one of the players was running his Indian Restaurant he brings lunch packet every Sunday and everyone pays for it. Later I moved with two Indians, Tiju and pankaj they were working with Cipla a Pharmaceutical company. They promised me to give few medicines with vitamin tablets. I got lot of medicine for all problems and few vitamin tablets also. Tiju dropped me back to the Embassy. I booked the ticket for Vinh and thanked everyone as I would leave and would not see them again. 8th Day I was supposed to start my journey from the town where I entered Vienam. Because Hanoi was at extream north and I wanted to go to south. Just to complete the documentation part, to spread the message effectively, I was in Hanoi. The town Vinh was around 300 Km. I got into the Bus at 12 noon and reached Vinh in the evening. I stayed in the same guest house. But this time the Old lady and her family welcomed me with respect and sweet laugh. Because they have seen my news in TV even I was not having much problem of language because I got a Phrase book of Vietnam from one of the WWF staff who would leave for his home country Mr. Nathan from USA. In Vinh also I got the same problem with the Police as it was in Laos. When I visited Police Station those were scared to write anything on the Record book. Same situation it was like in Laos. 9th Day It was the 2nd November, First time I had Vietnamese breakfast it was PHO (it’s kind of noodles but made up of rice with pieces of Pork in it.) it was delicious and energetic. After breakfast I went to the same Big Hotel where the girl was and she helped me for accommodation when I entered Vietnam and was in Vinh on very first day. She happily greeted and welcomed me and said, “I didn’t know, you are such a great person.” Her name was Ms. ‘Mai’ she was very excited and asked me if I want something to drink or eat. I thanked her but she offered me a glass of fruit juice. I enquired with her about the school. She asked me to go on bike at the Language Centre, she called a bike and asked the person to drop me at Continuing Education Centre. I paid 2000 Dong and reached the Centre. As soon as I entered the gate, the security guard stopped me but when I told him that I want to see English Teacher and he did not understand any thing except English Teacher, he allowed me. Further when I was walking towards staff room I crossed few classes and when students saw me with the same WWF T-shirt that I wore during Vietnam TV interview. They were staring at me. Even in the staff room, when I entered, the teachers were surprised to see me and welcomed. Actually in the interview the Reporter has explained in brief about the purpose of my expedition. So the teachers knew about my expedition and purpose for what I was there in the school. What a respect I got from those teachers it was unforgettable. You won’t believe before I ask for English Teacher some body already had gone to call, I spoke with the English Teacher and the Director when he came and requested to take the permission for the speech. He used to Interpret to the Director, I was sitting in the Director’s cabin the Director was a lady, she asked me to wait for some time. She was very nice she asked to arrange the speech in English class and invited me for lunch. It was not a school it was a study Centre of various languages and there were all College and University students. Students were very excited as the teacher already informed them. I got a clapping welcome by the students. Many of them saw me on TV, still I introduced and started the talk. It was the long and longest speech I ever delivered to the students because those college students were highly motivated and more than half an hour they interacted with me to know about the expedition and later the enjoyment part came where I got lot of complements from the girls. The first question was asked by the students that too a girl student “Bao Neue Toy” means how old are you? and Many other similar kind of personal questions like I used to get in Laos. About the girlfriend, love, family and etc etc. Many girls fall in love with me but when I told them about my girlfriend they all kept quite. I developed a feeling as if I am the handsome person on the earth ha……ha…. If not on the earth but at lease in last three countries, where girls loved me a lot. Every time I was thanking God for providing so much love and sending me to such a good people. Even in the afternoon I had lunch with the Director, I got so much of respect that I was pleased. The Director was a young girl but I got a shock when she told me her age. She asked me to guess and I swear I guessed around 25-28 years but she was 42 years married and a mother of three children. Ahh!!!!!!!! It was just impossible to guess age of Vietnamese people whether male or female. After lunch also I visited one more class and got the same response. The students were encouraged even a group of few boys said they would go on bicycle at least in Vietnam carrying similar kind of message. It was first time I met the persons who were very serious and inspired by the talk. I enjoyed a lot with all the students. I was in the Centre since morning and came out only in the evening at 4 O’clock. At night when I was out for dinner Ms. ‘Mai’ searched me but when she didn’t find me in the guest house, she kept the gift for me. It was food packet I was pleased and went to her hotel but she was not in the hotel. I really became emotional and asked God for not involving others so much with me. I could not see them hurt she was really good. 10th Day Before I leave for Ha Tinh I paid 80,000 Dong to the old lady for two days. Met Ms. Mai and I were not having words to thank her. But the gift was very big and alone I could not finish it. I requested her to take one back before that I convinced her that it’s not possible to carry with me, as there was no space in the rucksack. I requested her not to feel bad about it. I was highly obliged but I was helpless. She understood and kept one pack. While walking I got very different and exciting experience and that was all because of Vietnam TV. Oh!!! My God, it was just great people used to come and shook hands with me. If any one sitting outside of the home or hotel or office, people used to run inside not because of scarcity but to call people sitting inside to show. Then all those people used to show their hands. On the highway many people used to stop their vehicle and ask if I want to hitchhike. And about girls Oooops every time Hi!!!!!! Hallooooo!!!!!! It was just ………….. It was encouraging and Ha Tinh was just 50 Km. It was raining sometime in between but my Umbrella was protecting me (The new one). In the evening I reached Ha Tinh and contacted Police Station to get the stamp and find out a cheap hotel. But the same communication problem for stamp they were scared but they showed me Hotel. I enquired in that hotel but the rent was 8 US$ more than 100,000 Dong (1US$ = 14000-15000 Dong). Oh!!!!!!!! I was shocked the guest houses were so expensive. I requested him to make it little cheaper then he said 5 US$, but he denied for any further concession. I was about to pay him but the owner of the hotel came and saw me. He was so happy, he shook my hand and said you do not have to pay stay a night free. He saw my rucksack and the banner in Viet language (Got it written from WWF staff) which states the same message “Save Earth” and “Plant Trees”. He put me in one of the best rooms in Air Conditioned. It was 6 O’clock, I enquired about the English Evening Classes (Ms. Mai told me that there would be English Evening classes in each town and it would be easy to get the permission instead of school.) The owner asked one of the hotel staff to drop me at the Centre. I got ready and moved with the person. He showed me the Centre and left. There were many students waiting out side. When I entered the gate all those students were looking at me and girls were showing their hands. Some times I used to fell shy. I contacted a student and asked for the English Teacher. The student showed me the class, it was yet to start I spoke to the teacher even he saw me on TV and permitted without much enquiring. When all students came in the class the teacher introduced me to them. The students were younger than the students in Vinh that I visited yesterday. I had almost similar experience with those students too. Those students asked me to sing a Hindi song though I was not a good singer but from the students when their turn comes I used to get a very sweet Viet song. Those students were one step ahead of students of Vinh. They forced me and took me out for dinner with them. I was walking with around 25 girls and 4 persons. Girls surrounded me during walk and purposely walked a long way. Each one was trying to talk to me I could see the competition amongst them and I really felt shy walking amongst so many girls and talking to them. During that walk 2-3 girls even dared to say, “I love you”. Repeatedly I was telling them that I have my girlfriend and she is in India. I told them how much she loves me and trust me. It was first kind of experience that the girls were in love with me and they expressed to me. I was wanted to be with the persons but girls never left me alone. I desperately missed my girlfriend. We had dinner and I was really enjoying each moment of my life with the different kind of experience. First time I had Pork in Vietnam, it was a different and tasty dish. Those students were forcing me to test each dish and there were many dishes. I had variety of different dishes served in Vietnam and enjoyed the food. While coming back the same situation was. They all came to drop me at the hotel I said goodbye to them. At night after half an hour a girl came and asked me if I would stay the next day in Ha Tinh she would take me to her house. It was good that the hotel boy came and then I dropped her out of the hotel and denied. I told her that I would leave the next day because I do not have enough time with me. She left with the depression, I felt very bad but what to do, to how many girls I could promise. 11th Day I have experienced the same everywhere while walking people used to come and shook hands with me. If any one sitting outside of the home and recognize me, they used to run inside to call other family members to show. Today also it was raining but as I love walk in rain so I continued and people used to see me. I believe one more reason of the success of the expedition was those people who used to watch and encourage me for walk. I used to get some extra power. On the way I found lots of farming but few places because of rain the crops were all under the water. Vietnamese villagers are very poor and really kind. I saw mostly women and girls are hard working but live in very bad in much much more bad condition. Some times tears came out of my eyes looking at their hard work. I saw those people’s life and understood what is life. Some times I felt I should stay and work for the betterment of those people. They wear torn cloths and drive bicycle where as man always trouble woman. Even though in these countries man has to pay dowry to girl’s house. But what she get nothing as everything is same like in all South Asian countries that I have seen. In the evening I reached Ky Anh and stayed for the night by paying 5 US$ in a guest house. 12th Day The whole Highway was besides the seashore it was such a beautiful, everyday I walked and saw the beauty of sea. It looks so beautiful from the mountain it is just impossible to explain in words. Next day I reached to Roon another small village and I loved today’s walk. It was beautiful once I was on the top of the hill at such a place from where the sea was looking …….. what should I write I am not a poet otherwise I would have written a poem on such beautiful place. I am not getting word to express the beauty of Nature. But it was exciting and great rather I would say one of the beautiest places in the world the hidden place. In Roon I found there was no guest house when I enquired in a Post Office. The staff was a person and two females they were staying just besides the Post Office. First they didn’t recognize but when I turned back to move suddenly the girl shouted in Viet. The person stopped me, he knew very little English he told me there is a room and I could stay in that room if I want. I always welcomed and loved to stay with the people rather than in the hotel by paying. When I said ok the girl cleaned the room for me, I tried to do it but Oh!!! God, so much of respect, I experienced Vietnamese people’s hospitality. The girl provided a bed and a mosquito net. I had dinner with them, where I got Pork again but with sticky rice that you get in Laos. Everyone was wanted to spend lot of time with me. Again when there is any young girl, the girls could not stop loving me. The same thing was here too. I got lot of complements from her, it was very difficult to control myself otherwise I would have had lots of problems. Everywhere I used to control emotions and used to call my girlfriend to help me to control for not committing any sin. It was very difficult night for me and the girl was Ooooops damn beautiful she was sitting in my room and watching my photographs even I could not have much talk with her, as she did not know English. At last late night at 11.30 I told her to go. 13th Day It was 6th November and I left Roon, thanked whole staff and moved, since last night it was raining. I was supposed to reach Dong Hoi it was around 50 Km. Only rain was troubling but again I enjoyed the beauty of sea. Sometimes rain used to be with high-speed wind. Once I hitchhiked and the truck dropped me at around 10 Km before Dong Hoi because people were talking about the flood. Many vehicles were parked on that spot. I was very excited to see or experience the flood so I moved ahead in rain. I was enjoying walk in rain. So at last in the evening I reached Dong Hoi. But there was no Flood at all except little water on the road. But the flood was in the villages not in the city. There was a WWF project office cum house of James who was working with WWF through VSO (Volunteer Service Organization). I met James who was almost of my age, in Hanoi that time he gave me his phone number and address. After reaching in Dong Hoi, I called him and asked the direction to go to his house. But he sent a person to pick me. James welcomed me and enquired about the journey. I enquired about the Flood because I was listening about it since long and I would move through same route. I heard many villages were affected by flood and the flood area starts just after 40 Km from Dong Hoi. So I would have to wait till the water level comes down. People told now the water level was coming down but since last two day’s rain affecting the area again. In the evening James showed me the English Centre by that time rain stopped and I could visit that centre. I got students from the age group of 14 to 30 yrs. I used to talk for more than an hour in Vietnam everywhere. It used to be interactive with lots of fun. 14th Day It was Sunday James and I spent time with a lady Ms. Anna Merry who works for women’s Rights. There we met another gentleman Mr. Smith who was working with Interpreter’s Centre. He asked me to visit his Centre to talk to the students. 15th Day So very next day I i.e. on Monday I Visited Interpreter’s Centre an English language coaching Centre and Quang Binh College also both the places persons and girls responded very well. I used to feel satisfied for the talk wherever I do. James told me that he would go back to London first on Bike that he was having and later by bus, train or any other transportation through crossing one by one country. He told me that I have inspired him to think about taking up that kind of expedition where he would save lots of money too. In short he planned to go to England with minimum expenditure because he was poor. At the same time he would carry any message for the world. 16th –23rd Day I took leave of James and moved on the way to Dong Ha as James and others told me that Hue was most affected city. I heard the sea level was increased and water reached in the houses but now the water level was reduced much. I stayed in Dong Ha for the night. And Next day I reached Hue. It was pathetic scene really it was badly affected. Flood has done lot of damage, poor people were not having roof on their head, many people were staying outside and everything was wet. People have taken out everything of their house, as it was wet. But in the main city there was not much problem. I got to stay in a good hotel. Later I traveled through Langco Beach, where you get to see one of the best beaches in Vietnam. It was beautiful with the surrounding Mountains. I could spend only a night and reached on 12th in Danang. I was little tired because of everyday walk, since I left Dong Hoi on 9th. There during a speech in an English Centre I met an interesting person Mr. Khiet. He was engaged in many activities like, Orphan age, Nature trail and many other environmental projects. He was very happy and was interested to show me an Orphan age where he does lot of projects. I spent one day in Danang with him visiting his Orphan age spend almost half day with the students, talked to them, played with them and got to know how those people run the Orphan age. He took me to his house, there I saw many bottles in which different types of snakes. What was in that, you will get a shock, it was a kind of wine or medicine. He showed me his two years old daughter drunk two sips of it. He told me that Vietnam has lots of Homoeopathic and Naturopathic medicines for many diseases. After spending nice time with Mr. Khiet Next day I moved to Tam Key and then to Binh Dinh and Phu Yen (Tuy Hoa). In all those villages I used to give talk and used to get the same response. 24th – 27th Day It was 17th of November I was in Nha Trang another greatest beach city in Vietnam. Nha Trang was beautiful, there also I spend an extra day as I walked continue five days. Actually if I would have traveled according to my program, I would have spent one day every after a day’s walk. But because of situation like, after walking southern Laos I had to go back to Vientiane for the Vietnam visa and then for the little work to Hanoi. More over Flood problem, it was panic to walk every time for 4-5 days continue. I used to face knee problem, ankle problem some times because of water I used to get pimples on the finger toes or etching in between the thighs. But I had lots of medicine that I used during the walk. Some times for body pain, Pain Killer and get peaceful sleep. But when I used to get such a beautiful place like Nha Trang, I used to enjoy a lot with the persons and girls. On the beach I used to make friendship and used to enjoy game of Foot Ball and even they used to welcome me. At such time I thanked God and it was a fact that after hard work you get very good time. The same thing I experienced every time whenever I had hard time for 3-4 or 5 days next time, I spent very happy time with the beautiful and good people and enjoyed a lot. 28th – 30th Day On 21st after spending a night in Phan Thiet I thought of going directly to Cattien National Park because the park was still 25 Km inside and it was already 7 P.M. I was at the intersection so I spent one more night at Tan Phu in a hotel and next day early morning I started walk to Cat Tien National Park. On the way there I walked through numerous villages that were just spectacular. The sun was setting so people were riding home (one kid on a water buffalo), playing soccer, finishing up in the field, kids waving hello, etc. It was the most breathe-taking walk. It reminded me of rural India and I suddenly missed people who would take me with them to a meeting in such a village. In between I used to have fruits but one thing I noticed even though I was walking though the Villages and sometimes through lonely places, which was like forest not forest but less habitant area and I could not see many trees in that area. I was feeling very hot I took a very easy walk on a dirt road and got to a river at 12.30. There were few Officers. I enquired with them about Mr. Gert and Ms. Ina (WWF Project manager), I explained them and showed the Banner on the rucksack. The officer completed the official formalities of registration and one of them took me in a boat across the river and found an amazing research centre and park facilities. Gert whom I met in Hanoi, he knew me very well. He welcomed me and asked his staff to open a guest house. I got a very good Air Conditioned room. There was an open-air canteen and around the canteen there were lots of monkeys. What a beautiful it was. I got to know from Gert that Dip Hoa (WWF-Hanoi staff member) was also in the Park with around 25 Journalist from all best News Papers and magazines in Vietnam. In the evening I got a chance to talk to them. I presented my speech little different according to the audience because that time I was talking to the Journalists. I shared my experience with them in Vietnam. Many of them asked me little more questions for them to write in their News Paper even many of them taken Photograph. They were highly impressed. I was lucky to meet them and delivered the message again but that time I was sure that the reporters might write, in much more detail with the stories which I used to tell the students. It’s really not possible for me to describe the way all Journalists responded and respected me. It was one of the great experiences at the time when Journalists were taking my Photographs it was the scene like we see in the TV the way Reporters take Photographs of Bill Clinton or any other famous personalities. I've just spent a day in the Cat Tien National Park. There were no travelers except an Englishman Mr. Derek, because it is mostly a research forest. However, Mr. Gert and Ina his wife the only couple foreigner were living and working as WWF Project Manager, doing research, park management, etc. It was an amazing spot but quite out of the way. The park has the only remaining rhinoceroses (species) in SEA (except Indonesia). They are a sub species of the Javanese rhino and there are only about 4 or 6 in the park. They do not actually know yet because they have only got photos (from a trap camera taken at night) and footprints. There are also tigers in the park but just a few. We (Mr. Derek and Me) took a trek into the jungle, and believe me, we would have traded all those leeches in for just one look at a tiger, lion or even a bear any day. Yes leeches. That day I didn't put enough leech repellent on my leech socks and I found a few scampering up to suck my blood. EEEEHHHHWWWW! Praveen, Praveen, leeches. Some how we were successful to get rid of the leeches. But discovered some cool things in the jungle - dif trees, birds, we heard a bear growl at us from a distance, etc. What a beautiful place. 31st Day On 24th After a rough exit with the help of WWF in their Jeep, (that breathe-taking ride on the way it became a nightmare) on the way out a killer monsoon hit again it continued for an hour. I had to reach another intersection and then take a right turn for Ho Chi Minh City. But it was almost the same route until I reach the intersection so I hitchhiked after lunch to Ho Chi Minh City. Ho Chi Minh City, with a population of about 4 million, is Vietnam's largest city. Hanoi, the next largest city, has a population of about 3 million. Haiphong, the third largest, has about 1½ million people. It was 4.30 in the evening I visited Indian Consulate but he could not help me much except providing few name and addresses of Temple and Mosque. I visited a temple and a Mosque (I had been to the Mosque first time) but both the places the chief priest refused for the accommodation. Then I decided to stay in the cheap hotel. People told me that on Pham Ngu Lao road there are many cheap hotels where lots of bag Packers spend the nights. It was already 9 p.m. and I walked all the places for accommodation. On Pham Ngu Lao road I found a Restaurant, TRANG INDO-PAK Restaurant, I met a Pakistani man who was the owner of the Restaurant. He was good in Hindi and spoke to me in Hindi, I enquired him about the cheap hotel, but before that he offered me dinner. Then he took me to the cheapest lodge 5 US$ per day. Off course you cannot expect very good room in 5 US$. Still it was better. I was really shocked the Pakistani man Mr. Asif was so kind even though India-Pakistan relations or Hindu Muslim relations are not good (It’s in People’s mind) or because of the riot and terrorism in India people think as if Indians and Pakistanis are enemy. But what he was without considering my cast or country helped me in unknown country and proved that humanity is the only religion in the World. People should think in his way and try to leave with peace and harmony. 32nd Day In the morning I visited WWF office and then to English Centre. I got a very good response and the director was very impressed by the talk. Actually it was a private Centre, more over it was good for the Director to give something different to his students and he found my accent and pronunciation much different to understand. He was running 4-5 Centres in the city not only he took me at his another two centres but also asked me to come next day for the speech in his remaining two centres. Next day also I visited the classes and spent time roaming around the city. 33rd Day On 27th early morning I moved towards the first destination Cu Chi. It was last phase of my walk in Vietnam. I had three days to reach Cambodian border it was around 80 Km. I thought of crossing the distance in three days 25-30 Km every day. I was paying the hotel bill always in Dollars. Only for food I was using Dong. The Highway was very busy and people, each one used to stop their work and used to stare at me. In the evening I reached Cu Chi, which was just 35 Km from Ho Chi Minh City. I met a person whom I enquired about the Police Station, he wanted me to drop at the Police Station, so he asked me to seat on his bike. I was aware how Vietnamese Police are so I told him not to come with me inside the Police Station just drop me at the gate and go. But he was so excited and he didn’t listen. I tried my best to send him from the gate but the stupid, poor person met a Policeman and told him about me. Actually he understood very little even his English was not good at all. I was talking with the help of Viet Phrase book. In the Police Station nobody knew English so later when the boy was wanted to go the Policeman did not allowed him to go. Even the boy could not convince the Policeman, I explained them in a better way but then God knows why they were denying even for accommodation. Those Policemen asked him to take me to the big Police Station. I was stuck with such a person, where I told him to leave me alone but he was not able to understand. I knew he would be in trouble as well as he would waste his time. When I found he was unable to understand, I requested him to take me to his teacher. He took me to his teacher. There I explained the teacher and then the teacher explained him that I want to spend a night in the village, want to know about the hotel and take the permission from the Police. (Mr. Asif asked me to take precaution. Just because of the border, other wise the information part was always taken care by the hotel staff everywhere). Another problem most probably there was no hotel and that is why nobody was guiding me to the hotel. The poor person was running with me here and there took me to the big Police Station and explained them. But Police shouted on him and God knows what they were talking to him. I got little they were asking me to stay in Ho Chi Minh City, they were not listening that I walked and by walk I travel. But his enthusiasm didn’t bothered Police and without telling me anything he just said, “These Police are Bad.” He told me that I would be staying with him, his house was 8 Km on the way to Ho Chi Minh City. I hate going back but was helpless. We came to a hut, it was all of mud with Bamboo on the top. His big brother, mother, wife and two children’s were at home. They all welcomed me, luckily there was another educated person. He knew English better than the person. The person explained to his family and what a reaction was on their faces. I had dinner with them, the person and the educated man both left after dinner as they were staying somewhere else. The person told me to stay in the hut for the night. His family forced me to sleep on the bed it was equipped with the Mosquito net. I did not have much talk at night and slept. 34-35th Day But the next day morning they asked me to show the photographs, at the time when I was ready to move. I showed all my photographs to them. They used to ask about photographs, which country, which people and what not. The man Mr. Han and his children’s were forcing me to stay for one more day. They would take me to their farm. I was only having problem with the English, whatever I knew little Viet I was working with it. More over spending whole day and a night with such people with language difficulty, it was difficult, still I considered and thought for some time, the next destination was Go Dau, 25 Km, another small village and the check post was 10 Km ahead of Go Dau. I thought of possibilities and decided to know Vietnam in much closer way. So I told Mr. Han that I would stay for one more day and take me to the farm. I found four great philosophies and religions have shaped the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people: Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity. Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have melded with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what is known as Tam Giao (or 'Triple Religion'). The family was very poor, first thing I did was bought fruits from the market, I did not liked that they were caring me so much and I could not do any thing for them. I knew it would not look good and even they would not like if I try to give them money. The small person Van, his name, took me in their farm. He did fishing in the small pond and caught many fish, he took me around the farm of rice. I spent around three hours with the small person. You could imagine how I would have spent those three hours with the small person. Many villagers used to come to see me and Mr. Han used to feel proud, when the villagers used to ask about me. Many girls used to spend lot of time with me watching my photographs. I doubt those people might have seen any Indian. They used to say koy dee soyyyyyy means smile is beautiful. I got lot of compliments by the village girls. Later we had lunch at home and Mr. Han came with an old man who knew little English, but he was very funny and very wise man. He acted as an interpreter, Mr. Han and his family used to ask questions in Viet that he used to translate. When I answered any question or say anything first he used to laugh and then God knows what answers he used to make by himself on behalf of me, the poor family used to listen to him and they used to laugh. He was really a wise old man he did not wanted to show the family that he did not understand. I laughed a lot on his wise ness but even I did not show him that I caught him. Some times I was confused and didn’t get him what the question was, still I used to catch one or two words and then Oh!!!!!, Yaaaaaapp, Okkkkkkkk, Noooooooo in that way I replied. After lunch I spent most of the time out of the hut. I was not at all worried about my rucksack. I trusted on God and was roaming with the small person Van. I spent the whole day and enjoyed each moment. Many villagers used to call me at their house for tea, Van was a small person but wise and was very good in body language I used mostly body language with him for communication. In the evening we had dinner at around 6 O’clock and spent time reading book even slept early. 36th Day So at last successfully, I passed last day and night in. I got up early morning at 5 O’clock got ready, thanked Mr. Han and all, and moved. I was depress for walking the same distance 8 Km again. Every where wherever I used to be in the market or any where Motto Bike drivers used to ask and they not only ask, they force us to seat on their bike. I met thousands of Motto Bike drivers so far I always refused them. In the evening I reached Go Daou, which was just 26 Km from Cu Chi but 34 Km from the village where I stayed last night. I went to the Police Station and met a Lady Police Officer, she was good and knew little English. I spoke to her and showed her the letter as well as News Paper cutting. She was very happy but told me there was no hotel, so she excitedly told me that she would help me, she tried at a place but failed then she asked me to wait and left. After 10 minutes she came back with her husband and took me at their house. Both knew very little English but still they accommodated me. I took bath and changed the cloths, both they prepared dinner where as I played with their kid. Her husband’s name was Thee Yep, was working in the Military and her name was Thang. I had lots of problem for pronunciation of Vietnamese names. During dinner her brother came and took all of us to her house, which was around 2 Km. There I saw a girl, she was similar to a girl in my hometown, it seemed like twins. I enjoyed the last night in Vietnam with very good people and with lots of joy. Vietnam in Short An understanding of history still goes a long way in Vietnam, since the country has a unique civilisation and a highly cultured people. Most visitors to Vietnam are overwhelmed by the sublime beauty of the country's natural setting: the Red River Delta in the north, the Mekong Delta in the south and almost the entire coastal strip are a patchwork of brilliant green rice paddies tended by women in conical hats. The country has rapidly climbed out of its post-war fatigue and the boom in budget travelling, coupled with the lifting of Vietnamese government restrictions, have enabled more contemporary and relevant portraits of the country to gain currency in the West. Vietnam offers a rare opportunity to see a country of traditional charm and beauty taking the first hesitant steps into the modern world. Vietnam is a tropical country in Southeast Asia. It extends south from China in a long, narrow S-curve. Laos and Cambodia lie west of Vietnam, and the South China Sea lies to the east. Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam, and Ho Chi Minh City is the largest city. In ancient times, the Vietnamese people lived in what is now northern Vietnam. China ruled the area from about 100 B.C. until the A.D. 900's, when the Vietnamese formed an independent state. During the next 900 years, the Vietnamese expanded their territory until they controlled all of what is now Vietnam. France gained control of Vietnam in the late 1800's. The French governed the country until Japan occupied it during World War II (1939-1945). After Japan's defeat in 1945, France tried to regain control of Vietnam. But the Vietminh, a group controlled by Communists and headed by Ho Chi Minh, gained power in northern Vietnam. Fighting broke out between French forces and the Vietminh in 1946. It ended in 1954, with the French defeat in the Battle of Dien Bien Phu and an international conference to arrange a peace settlement. The conference, held in Geneva, Switzerland, decided to divide Vietnam temporarily into two zones. The Communists received control of the northern zone, called North Vietnam. Non-Communist Vietnamese received control of the southern zone, called South Vietnam. In 1957, Vietminh members in the South began to rebel against the South Vietnamese government. North Vietnam began publicly supporting the revolt in 1959. The Communists' goal was to unify the country under their control. The fighting developed into the Vietnam War. China, the Soviet Union, and other Communist countries sent aid to the Vietnamese Communists during the war. Non-Communist countries supported South Vietnam. The United States became the chief ally of the South. It backed the South's war effort with supplies and hundreds of thousands of troops. In 1973, the participants in the war agreed to a cease-fire and the United States withdrew its last combat troops. But the Communists soon resumed their war effort. In April 1975, the Communists defeated South Vietnam and took control of it. In 1976, they unified North and South Vietnam into the single nation of Vietnam. Thousands of years ago, people moved into the Vietnam area from the north and from islands to the south. The Vietnamese people probably developed out of these two groups. Today, they make up almost 90 per cent of Vietnam's population. Tay, Thai, Chinese, and Khmer are the largest minority groups in Vietnam. Most Vietnamese people have broad faces, high cheekbones, and straight black hair. On average, the men stand a little over 150 centimetres tall and weigh about 54 kilograms. Most Vietnamese women are slightly smaller than the men. Most of the Vietnamese people live on the Mekong and Red river deltas and on the coastal plain. The Tay and Thai live mostly in the northern provinces. Thai people form a majority in nearby Thailand. The majority of the Chinese live in cities. Most of the Khmer are farmers in southwestern Vietnam. Khmer people make up a majority in neighbouring Cambodia. Total population of Vietnam is 78.7 Million, includes about 11/4 million Tay, 1 million Thai, 1 million Chinese, and 900,000 Khmer. The Currency of Vietnam is Dong (1US$=14,000). Vietnam's flag and coat of arms feature a star that stands for Communism. The flag was first officially adopted by Vietnamese communists when they declared independence in 1945. The shape of the star was modified slightly in 1955. The rice and cogwheel on the coat of arms represent the importance of agriculture and industry to Vietnam. Culture Four great philosophies and religions have shaped the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people: Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity. Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have melded with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what is known as Tam Giao (or 'Triple Religion'). The Vietnamese language (kinh) belongs to the Mon-Khmer stock, which comprises Mon (spoken in Burma) and Khmer (the language of Cambodia), as well as Khmu, Bahnar, Bru and other languages of the highlands of Vietnam. Mon-Khmer, Tai and Chinese elements are combined with many basic words derived from the monotonic Mon-Khmer languages. The most widely spoken foreign languages in Vietnam are Chinese (Cantonese and Mandarin), English, French and Russian, more or less in that order. Popular artistic forms include: traditional painting produced on frame-mounted silk; an eclectic array of theatre, puppetry, music and dance; religious sculpture; and lacquerware. Vietnamese cuisine is especially varied - there are said to be nearly 500 different traditional dishes, ranging from exotic meats such as bat, cobra and pangolin to fantastic vegetarian creations (often prepared to replicate meat and fish dishes). However, the staple of Vietnamese cuisine is plain white rice dressed up with a plethora of vegetables, meat, fish, spices and sauces. Spring rolls and steamed rice pancakes are popular snacks, and the ubiquitous soups include eel and vermicelli, shredded chicken and bitter soups. Some of the more unusual fruits available include green dragon fruit, jujube, khaki, longan, mangosteen, pomelo, three-seed cherry and water apple. Vietnamese coffee is excellent. Environment Vietnam borders Cambodia, Laos and China and stretches over 1600 km along the eastern coast of the Indochinese Peninsula. The country's two main cultivated areas are the Red River Delta (15,000 sq km/5400 sq mi) in the north and the Mekong Delta (60,000 sq km/23,400 sq mi) in the south. Three-quarters of the country is mountainous and hilly; the highest peak is the 3143m (10,310ft) high Fansipan in north-west Vietnam. Vietnam is made up of equatorial lowlands, high, temperate plateaus and alpine peaks. Although Vietnam's wildlife is rich, it is in precipitous decline because of the destruction of habitats and illegal hunting. Less than 20% of the country remains forested, and what remains is under threat from slash and burn agriculture and excessive harvesting. Fauna includes elephants, rhinoceros, tiger, leopard, black bear, snub-nosed monkey, crocodile and turtle. Vietnam has five national parks: Cat Ba, Ba Be Lake and Cuc Phuong national parks in the north; Bach Ma National Park in the centre; and Nam Cat Tien National Park in the south. In an attempt to prevent an ecological and hydrological catastrophe, the government has plans to set aside tens of thousands of sq km of forest and to create 87 national parks and nature reserves. Although Vietnam lies in the intertropical zone, local conditions vary from frosty winter in the far northern hills to the year-round subequatorial warmth of the Mekong Delta. At sea level, the mean annual temperature is about 27°C in the south, falling to about 21°C in the far north. Getting There and Away Saigon's Tan Son Nhat airport is Vietnam's busiest international air hub, followed by Hanoi's Noi Bai airpot. A few international flights also serve Danang. Bangkok has emerged as the principle embarkation point for Vietnam but it's still possible to get direct flights from a number of major Asian cities and a few Australian cities. Canada, the US and England do not have direct flights. It's become very popular to cross the border at Friendship Pass, or Dong Dang, 20km (12mi) north of Lang Son in north-east Vietnam, to get to/from Nanning in China's Guangxi Province. There are at least five other border crossing points but all of them suffer from bureaucratitis and heavy policing, and one month visas have suddenly been changed to one week visas on the whim of an official. Land travel through Cambodia is not recommended due to Khmer Rouge attacks. The other popular border crossing is at Lao Cai in north-west Vietnam, which lies on the railway line between Hanoi and Kunming in China's Yunnan Province. There is a twice-weekly international train between Beijing and Hanoi that stops at Friendship Pass. It's possible to enter Laos from Lao Bao in north-central Vietnam. Note that Vietnamese visas specify your departure point from the country. If you want to change this you'll have to pay a visit to the immigration police or the Foreign Ministry.

CAMBODIA

1st Day

The 30th of November, I would be reaching to the first dangerous (what I know from Books, News Papers and TV) Country. I left early morning thanking Mr. and Mrs. Npersonen. They guided me little about Cambodia even told me to get exchange on the border. On the way I met many Cambodians and they were all in really bad condition means one could guess how poor would be Cambodians. The highway was full busy and the border was more. I reached Moc Boi and entered at 10 O’clock in the morning. One thing was good that the officers were good in English. I enquired the conditions and nearest village to spend the night. The Officer told me that there would not be problem for walk and the town called Svay Rieng after 35 Km from the border. I exchanged 100,000 Dong and got 26,000 Riel in the market just near to the border. By the way, in Market when stopped for Fruits I saw venders were selling barbequed bird fetuses, fried grasshoppers, spiders, and a variety of other crunchy looking insects, not to mention the full hens cooked and marinated in a red sauce. Yuck!!!!!! I had fruits and moved, people were very friendly but mostly Vietnamese. On the way I got vehicles means I never felt lonely but the road was dirty like the roads in the villages of India, very bad road. Really, it was just a good excuse to see the countryside, people working, hanging out, selling things, seeing the housing etc. I knew about the people but many people said walking up to the Mekong River crossing or Nakliung (name of the town) would be safe. Even before the violence of July 1997, Cambodia was no picnic: any place that's a happy hunting ground for Interpol's most wanted is just not a healthy place to be. All visitors are advised to register their presence with their embassy and seek advice on the current security situation. Non-essential travel outside Phnom Penh and Angkor should be avoided. Although the danger of being kidnapped and murdered by the Khmer Rouge may have waned with the organisation's collapse, banditry is widespread and foreigners have been particularly targeted. Visitors should not attempt to enter Cambodia by land, except from Moc Bai in Vietnam. There is even tension along the Vietnamese-Cambodian border following Cambodian accusations that the Vietnamese are extending their territory several hundred meters into Cambodian soil. The amount of smuggling that takes place across the border also means strangers are often considered intruders. And if all of that's not enough, the land is still riddled with civil war-landmines specifically designed to maim rather than kill. I believe in God and always used to say that God would save me because many times God has saved me. I was very happy without any trouble by Cambodian with the stoppages and having fruits at many places I reached Svay Rieng in the evening. As soon as I entered I was shocked looking at the town. You won’t get to see such towns even in India the streets and architecture was clearly a French colonial style. It was quite a shock to see places that were even less developed in terms of visual infrastructure than places in rural India. I visited the Police Station but wasted almost more than an hour and there too I got the same response as I got it in Laos and Vietnam for the stamp. At last I enquired for the cheap lodge and got one. After bath I went out in the market. I got to see an International Organization. It was Health Net International, met a Dutch lady explained her and requested to help me for providing little information about the route and people even the Local language letter (The one I get for each country) and “Save Earth, Plant Trees” on the banner in Khmer language. Khmer is Cambodia's official language but I found it was very difficult to understand as well as to speak. Her name was Relinda very kind, first she asked me if I got a good place to stay. She told me to stay in the guest house of Health Net. I came back to the hotel paid 5000 Riel for an hour and shifted to Health Net’s guest house. Relinda told me about the Aids Rally in Svay Rieng by all NGO’s on Aids Day. I had food in the hotel and food was little expensive 4,000 Riel. 2nd Day It was Aids Day 1st December whole staff was running for preparation of the rally. Everybody was wearing cap and T-shirts (but I was wearing WWF T-shirt) with the Aids sign on it. A Condom manufacturing company (No. 1 Condom Company) sponsored it. We got lot of Posters with us and moved to open ground of Environment Department. In the ground many people were gathered and all were govt. officials with other NGO’s. Rally began at 8 O’clock. People carried Posters and Banners with them even I carried a very good poster with me. On the front of the rally there were 8-10 peoples with Band and other musical instruments, two men were dancing on the music, wearing a gown on which skeleton sketches were drowned. Approximately 1000 people were there for the rally, many of them were distributing condoms free provided by No. 1 Condom Company. The rally lasted for an hour and then we all came back. I really enjoyed it very much. I bought a bottle of fruit jam, everything comes here from Thailand the bottle of jam, which costs 15 Bath in Thailand but 40 Bath (3500 Riel) in Cambodia. It was very expensive. It was good for breakfast. I spent time with other staff of Health Net Int. prepared banner and requested a Cambodian staff to write the word for “Save Earth and Plant Trees.” Even I got the letter also in Khmer language. Relinda guided me to an English Centre yesterday where I got the permission and the teacher asked me to come at 5 O’clock today. So in the evening I visited Kram Krom Kroang before 5 O’clock the teacher was waiting for me, he welcomed me and introduced to the students but the students were poor in English, the teacher used to translate it sometimes. It was my first speech in Cambodia and the same response I got from those students too. The teacher was very impressed and requested me to spend one more hour with the senior students. What else I expect, to talk to the students and spread the message to more and more people. Cambodia is poor country and when I told these students that I travel without money, they were very keen to know more about the expedition and they listen carefully. One of the girls invited me for dinner. All country people used to love me so much and everywhere God has sent me to very good people. First time I had Cambodian food, it always includes a soup, which is eaten with the other courses. Fish is the nation's mainstay, and grilled freshwater fish, wrapped in lettuce or spinach and dipped into a nutty fish sauce, is a particular speciality. 'Salad' dishes are flavoured with coriander, mint and lemon grass - three flavours, which find their way into many Cambodian dishes. I got to experience Cambodians Hospitality. After having real Cambodian dinner I came back to the guest house and slept peacefully. 3rd Day It was 2nd December and third day in Cambodia. I moved early morning, last night that girl’s brother showed me the way and even guided me about the next village i.e. Kampong Trabek, which was 35 Km and was a village. I got very nice people again on the way. I used to put mask on my face so some times people used to think, Cambodian traveling but some times when they see from little closer distance, they used to understand that any foreigner traveling mostly because of eyes. Later Hi !!!!!!!, Hellooooooooo, Hi !!!!!!!!!!, helloooooooo. Sometime when I used to stop for the fruits, people used to read the banner and used to shake their hands with me. Just 6-7 Km before Kampong Trabek, I met few persons, very jolly and interested. One of them knew little English and even those persons liked my company as they were walking and talking with me. When I found them nice persons, I requested them to help me for the accommodation in cheap hotel. All persons were from Kampong Trabek, they told me that there was no hotel but I could stay in a Pagoda (Buddhist Temple is known as Pagoda In Khmer) and they would help me, if I would like to stay in Pagoda. I replied, “OK” and we crossed the distance chatting on many topics. Before we go to Pagoda, I requested the persons to take me to the Police Station. When we entered the village it was not like Svay Rieng, neither good streets nor any architecture of French colonial style. It was similar to an Indian village. Many people were looking at us and showing their hands with Hi!!!!!!! Hellooooooo. Many of them walked with us and used to ask those persons as if some thing bad happened with me. Most of the places I got to see mostly Vietnamese but in Kampong Trabek I got to see real Cambodians or Original Cambodians in large. After reaching at the Police Station, the person explained the Police Officer about the expedition even I showed him the Khmer language letter written by Health Net staff and told that I would stay in Pagoda, as there was no hotel. Police Officer permitted the stay and we all moved towards the Pagoda. I met a Monk who knew little English, Sir Songkuwa (Sir is used to call the Monk with the respect) and the enthusiastic persons they were well known to all the Monks. The boy explained him also in detail with the help of Khmer Letter and Sir Songkuwa took the permission from the chief Monk, who was very old and ill. Once he allowed, Sir Songkuwa accommodated me in a very big hall where 3-4 Monks were staying. Sir Songkuwa was the second chief Monk after the old Monk. It was getting dark all those persons were not living me, they were in love and wanted to talk to me. Later I had dinner, few persons brought the tiffin from their home for me. Every one was wanted to do something for me and they were doing a lot. 4th Day Next day it was Friday the persons came early morning, I showed them all the photographs. Those persons used to ask me, how much money I have with me? I used to lie and say, “Since last one year I am traveling and crossed nine countries, now I finished my money and I would go back to my country once I reach Phnom Penh.” Later they took me in their School for the speech. They felt proud that I was with them. I got tremendous respect and response from the students as well as from the teachers. What I saw, the Pagoda was not like the wats (wat for Buddhist Temple in Thailand and Laos) even the Monks were having lot of difference. Many Monks live dirtily, no cleanliness even the Monks drinks wine too. All people give so much respect to the Monks as if they are God but Monks make use of their trust and andhavishwas. In the evening Sir Songkuwa took me to the chief Monk and told his problem as if I was a Doctor even I behaved as if I knew lot of things and checked up. After little question and answer drama, I gave some Antibiotic Tablets. But result of that check up many other Monk came with their problems. I gave one etching tube, few Vitamin Tablets, few Pain Killers and bandage. Actually all those Monk were wanted to have something or other from me. But when I had little medicines with me I stopped it. I was never alone whole day either any person or the Monk used to spend time with me. At night during dinner an old man told me how dangerous to walk from Nukliang to Phnom Penh even I heard it many times. 5th Day After spending, a day and two nights in Kampong Trabek, I moved ahead towards Nukliang, which was just 27 Km. One more reason of having fruits and Noodles while walking was dust you won’t get any place where you find people have covered the food with cloth or any other thing. The food was always open where because of bad road layers of dust might be on the food. It’s because of careless ness there are lot of health problems in Cambodia. I reached Nukliang by 1.30 p.m. as it was just 27 Km. I thought of spending Saturday and Sunday in Nukliang because Phnom Penh was 50 Km more and walk on the highway would be dangerous. At the same time even if I reach Phnom Penh by vehicle, I would have to spend two nights in the hotel as Embassy would be close. I was very confused and was standing near the River Mekong. There were many vehicles waiting for the ferry to cross the river. I thought of crossing the river and stay so I searched for English speaking person even to know about the situation as well as to hitchhike just for crossing the river. How lucky I was, saw a person who looked like an Indian, I asked him if he knows English. He replied positively, I explained him in short and requested to guide me. He knew I was Indian but when he came to know about the expedition he asked me to seat inside his car and asked if I could speak Hindi. I laughed and answered him in Hindi. There was still time to cross the river and mean time I explained him in detail even he told me that he has seen me while walking on the highway some where after Svay Riang. He told me not to walk the remaining distance and go with him to Phnom Penh but then I told him about the problem of accommodation for Saturday and Sunday. He was so nice, immediately he asked me to stay at his house and enjoy. Once we crossed the river he told me how the Cambodians behave with the foreigners just for 10 $ they had killed foreigners. They do not see the cause they see only $ sign. Ahead up to Phnom Penh many people have guns with them, he was telling me all because he has spent more than ten years in Cambodia and he used to say, “I am a bad person.” He was with a bodyguard and the bodyguard was having a gun with him. His wife Bhalla was Cambodian. He was a one of the famous man in Cambodia. I do not know in which way Bad or Good. After reaching home I had little snacks. At night he took me in a Karaoke where we enjoyed a lot and just for 3 hours he paid around 60 US$. Oh !!!!!! My God, I was shocked, later I came to know he was a millionaire not in Riel (Cambodian Currency) but in US$. When I saw Phnom Penh, I found there are areas in Cambodia, which is a small country, relatively, that can not be reached by police or gov't because the roads are so bad. But mostly it was depressing to see just how worldwide the same issues of poverty and underdevelopment are. 6th Day Sunday we moved for the picnic on the way we had Vietnamese breakfast PHO (Noodles with Pork pieces). We reached at a very big Buddha temple, it was around 40 Km from Phnom Penh. It was on the top of the hill and was beautiful spot for the picnic. We finalized a tent house made up of Bamboo and with in 15 minute’s two more cars came. The Indian did not wanted to tell his real name but he told me on one condition that I should not talk to any Indian about him. Mr. XYZ welcomed the two Officers were having the topmost Position in the Ministry. He was having contacts with the Prime Minister also. They were with their family and 4-6 bodyguards. I was getting shock after shock. He was spending tremendous money on those officers even he offered them free tour to India along with their family. Actually there was a case going on with a Singaporean from whom Mr. XYZ has to recover Half a Million US$. So if he spends 5-7 thousand US$ on those officers he would not mind. He told me he was doing the Import and Export business. I got the Photographs with those officers. He used to say again and again that he was a bad person, whenever I asked him. I knew only one thing that he was nice and had very good ideas to make India much better. He was the richest person I ever met and stayed in the expedition. I found he was the DON of Cambodia. There were lots of Cans of Pepsi 2-3 big bottles of wine costing 350 US$ each and many other drinks with chicken. I never saw person who would spend so much. I used to play with the children’s even I took a photograph with the gun that was with the bodyguard. We enjoyed whole day had delicious Cambodian food with lots of variety dishes in lunch and came back in the evening. At night I watched the Miss World Contest and happy to see another Indian crowned as Miss World. 7th Day On Monday I thanked everyone and moved to Indian Embassy, but those Indians could not help much except providing list of Indian Association and reference letter for Malaysian High Commission. I found one Mr. Kiran Desai spoke to him and requested to help for the accommodation. He didn’t enquire much and asked me to come to his house. He welcomed and accommodated me in his house got a separate room, as he was staying alone. He was from Mumbai and he works there with a pharmaceutical company. He knew Mr. Shree and Mr. Mahesh from Laos. At night one more Indian came Mr. Sandip whose boss was in Malaysia. He told me that he would mail his boss to send an invitation letter to Malaysian Embassy in Phnom Penh. There was only work was to be done and it was to get the visa for Malaysia. 8th Day The biggest work I completed, on 7th December, submitted the application form with the fees to Malaysian Embassy for the visa. I visited WWF office, met Mr. Jack who was the WWF Project Manager for Cambodia. He contacted News Reporter of “The Daily Cambodian” and fixed up an appointment with him at 2 O’clock in the afternoon. Later I visited two schools including International School, but not even a single one, allow me to talk. But in the evening I visited English Centre, but there also the teacher allowed me only 15 minutes, as he gets paid on an hour basis. Literally I begged for the speech and then only the teacher allowed me to talk that too only for 15 minutes. Many a times I begged for the speech, few place people behaved very rudely and refused for the speech but most of the places people welcomed with lots of respect. I was having Lunch and Dinner with Mr. Kiran, he contacted the Rotary Club member Mr. Dany who was an Indian. I was not aware about the presence of Rotary anywhere in Cambodia or in Phnom Penh. Mr. Kiran told me that there would be a meeting on 8th of December at noon followed by lunch and Rotary President has invited for the meeting. 9th Day It was 8th December, I tried to visit few another schools even though few schools refused, so I never stopped trying because I was confident and knew that after try one get the success. After visiting three schools I got the success in one school where students hardly understands English, but the teacher was very good he used to translate even my speech was with the drawings, which was very easy to understand. I came back before 12 to move with Mr. Kiran at the meeting venue Hotel Inter-Continental one of the five star hotels in Phnom Penh. The same day my news was in the News Paper. Many Rotarians read it, so when they saw me they welcomed and greeted excitedly. I had half an hour talk with all the Rotary Club members. It was after long time almost after three months that I got a chance to talk with the Rotarians. The Club praised a lot and supported financially too. It was the first club after Bangladesh. In the evening one of the Rotary member, Mr. Kiran and me we all went to a pub. There I saw many foreigners with the girls, they were all from various NGO’s. Most government employees have at least one other job to survive. Apparently it's the foreign NGO workers that are making the most money in Cambodia. Hmmmn, neo-colonism perhaps. I talked to a few NGOers working in Cambodia. Sounds like they are mostly doing old school development or Health Care. Not participatory, doesn’t involve Khmers much, mostly foreigners making lots of money, they all live in the city although 80% of the population is in the countryside. Better than nothing, I guess, but disappointing. At night we went for dinner at one of the famous Indian Hotel “Shiv-Shakti.” Because of the News Paper, many Indians knew about me and the hotel owner was a lady she also read the news. She welcomed and greeted me she asked me what I would like to have for dinner and forced to eat variety of food. I thought she would not charge us if not free to all but at least for me she would not charge. When I saw the bill, I really felt bad she was such a lady that first she forced me as if she would not charge but later she included everything and unnecessary Mr. Kiran had to pay a lot. I always tried not to trouble people at all those who help me and always tried to save their money by having simple food. I didn’t like her attitude, she didn’t cared for others and there was only show. 10th Day Third phase and first success got the visa for Malaysia. It was 9th December, as you read earlier that Malaysia and Singapore was in the third Phase, which was the part of little worry. Since I got the visa for Cambodia in Laos, my journey became tension free and the same plan was mine at the beginning. Otherwise I would have ran for the visa like in Thailand I ran for Laos visa, in Laos I ran for Vietnam but later smooth, so far at least. In Phnom Penh Mr. Kiran took me to show few historical places. We saw the killing fields and a genocide museum. Finished my book the autobiography of a technician whose entire family was killed during Pol Pot’s reign and he survived by eventually fleeing through the jungle into Thailand. Unbelievable! It was actually really depressing. Major atrocities inflicted upon millions. To make sure I didn’t leave Cambodia with only that depressing moment of history in my minds I also visited the local Fine Arts University, really just a collection of very old, almost ruined buildings. We sat in on a couple of traditional Khmer drum classes, a Peace Band that played swing, and another band that played xylophones. Actually, we also met this professor who practically begged us to sponser a book he plans to write on Khmer dance and/or to get him and his dance troop to India for a show. Sadly, we had to be firm with him that we could not sponser him and that he was better off looking for collaboration with a university or another funding organization. Nice man but we couldn't give him a false promise. I’ll be searching for a job and funding myself or perhaps start own Ngo for the dream project (Animal Shelter, Old age Home and Orphanage) when I return to India let alone searching for him for funding. He, like lots of other Cambodians I met, were extremely friendly, kind people. At night we went for the Party at Mr. Anurag’s house. I met lot of Indians at his house. What it was all cast people were together spending time out of India. Mr. Kiran told me once in a month they organize such kind of party, for get together. I enjoyed with them a lot every one praised for the work I was doing. Indian association provided little financial assistance. There was one very enthusiastic Indian, even after he took us to the pub, just to show me though I went many times in the pubs in Phnom Penh. He was very interesting person. We spent an hour there and came back. All Indians suggested me not to walk after Phnom Penh. Even I decided not to walk looking at the conditions and hearing stories of robbery and murders from everyone. 11th Day I know I missed a lot only staying for less than a week but you can’t live everywhere for a year as I was already short of time and was on expedition. On 10th I moved out of Phnom Penh. Few Indians flagged off, I thanked everyone and specially Mr. Kiran, who took lot of care and helped a lot. I did not walked because of situations and fear but 10 Km walk was no problem and ahead, I got in to a mini bus to reach Pursat it was 165 Km from Phnom Penh. It was just great, the terrific journey I ever did, Potholes that swallowed the mini bus and they were one after the other every 2 or 3 feet. And I was in the middle seat so I got the little bounce of all. It was really funny, in front of me there was a small person sitting. Suddenly what happened once he got a biggest bounce and he fell down in such a way that everybody laughed a lot, it is really difficult to describe the scene even I was almost lifted 1 ½ feet of my seat at that time. Asides from that the scenery was gorgeous. I spend a night in Pursat. 12th Day Next day I went to Battambang and searched for any NGO for getting English speaking person to get a cheap hotel. I got CARERE but there was only young girl in the office. I explained her and showed News Paper cuttings. She got so happy, she asked me if I do not mind I could stay with her. I could not believe, it was first incident a young Australian girl of around 25-26 years old asked me to stay with her where as she was staying alone. But she was very good girl. She trusted me and asked me to stay with her. Her name was Peggy. She went out in the market, by that time I took bath and got ready before she comes. I spent very good time with her and enjoyed talking about Australia as well as India and about the expedition too. We had dinner at her place, where I tried to prepare an Indian dish for her and made it. She was a prety girl, we talked about her boy friend and my girlfriend too. After chatting till late night we slept. 13th Day On 12th December I visited Angkor wat thought of all lots those who told me about the Angkor wat. It’s a pretty amazing place. I was really very lucky to meet Mr. Harmeet Singh who owns few cars and hire them to tourists. Even he drives a car. Early morning when I was enquiring about the Angkor, I met him. First he asked about myself and when he saw my file and photographs, he appreciated and asked me to join him after an hour for the trip of Angkor with few more foreigners. I really found myself luchky to meet such a great people. After an hour we along with four more foreigners and a guide, began the journey, guide started his work. I noted down the important points of the History of Angkor. About 1,000 B.C. what is now Cambodia was invaded by Ayran tribes who had come from Persia, via India. They brought with them the Hindu religion and culture. At the time the land was inhabited by Khmer tribes, they intermarried with the invaders and accepted new ideas, especially in architecture, the Khmers had used nothing but wood, the newcomers preferred stone. Eventually the capital of a Khmer kingdom was established at Angkor. In the great days of the kingdom, this became one of the famous cities of the East. But, because of internecine strife, the power of Khmer declined. And Angkor was exposed, it was less than a hundred miles from the Thai frontier. So the king decided to move his capital eastwards. A city with hundreds of thousands of inhabitants was abruptly deserted. The forest and jungle took over. Within two generation Angkor had been swallowed up. Local peasants knew where it had been, of course, but dare not approach, for fear of the gods who had condemned the city to death. With the passing of the centuries Angkor became a legend. Travelers heard confused accounts of a Lost city, but its site was no longer known. Then a hundred years ago, a French explorer was making his way through the forest jungle north of Tonle Sap, the great lake of Cambodia. He saw trees of unusual shape, and investigated, the trees were entwined about great stones. He was an erudite man, and rejoiced, for he knew that he had discovered the lost city of Angkor. Since then french savants have laboured to clear away the jungle, and now Angkor may be seen in at least a portion of its ancient glory. Pride of them all is Angkor Vat, the Temple of Angkor. It is enormous, its walls and moat enclose a site of 500 acres, it used to have 80,000 attendants, and half a million pilgrims could be accommodated at once. There are monasteries and ancient guest houses in the grounds. These centre on the giant mass of the temple itself, colossa and impressive, its beauty changes with every shade of light, its gray stone mottled by countless pale green lichens. Gallery rises upon gallery, at the corners of the temple, and crowning its central sanctuary, are vast pinnacles in stone. The halls are quite tiny for so huge a building, mere rooms in which a dozen people could gather for prayer. Each was shaped like a narrow Pyramid, for the Khmers did not understand vaulting. When they needed a roof, they pushed in a stone a few inches from a wall, then another, on top of it, a few inches further. Thus all their roofs have a conical appearance. All carving was done after the building was completed. A feature of most of the temples was a colossal four-faced king-god, facing all points of the compass, he was ready to aid his subjects wherever they might be. The first gallery in Angkor Vat is sheltered, like a monastic cloister. It occasions a gasp of astonishment. One wall is covered with bas-reliefs, carved nearly 900 years ago, but as vivid as on Khmer legends, fantastic in their amazing detail. Half a mile of history in stone! Not even Persepolis can compete with the Temple of Angkor. The remains of the royal palace are scanty. But dominating the centre of the old city is thegreat temple called the Bayon. Its stone courtyards are dotted with shrines, culminating in a central sanctuary. Wihtin a few miles are the ruins of more than eighty other temples and a hundred secular edifices. We even visited Ta Phrom, which has been left as the jungle invaded it, to show what the whole city was like before it was rescued from the enveloping jungle. We along with the guide went ahead and one foreigner lady flatly refused to go into it, she would wait for us on the other side, a mile or two away. Then two near-naked men emerged from the jungle. They were cheerful and friendly, and carried cross-bows. Obviously they intended to accompany me, there were evil spirits abroad, and it was not good for a man to wander alone. One of them demonstrated his bow. He pressed it back with his naked toes, and fitted an arrow along a crossed section of wood. He aimed at a tree, and the arrow struck it with a terrific smack. We walked along between an avenue of nagas, or guardian gods. On every hand were giant grey trees, some with enormous roots like the sails of ships, and some trailing for fifty feet or more along the ground. Trees grew in the terraces and even in the temple. Great walls were pushed down and altars were over thrown. The smell of bats was almost overpowering. Angkor a thousand years ago was one of the wonders of the world. It still is. My few paragraphs can give but the sketchiest outline of its majesty. Even an entire book could not exhaust its interests. There is a model of the Angkor Vat by the side of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. But Angkor is one of the places, which a man must see before he dies. Here I would like to advice that if any one wants to go to Angkor, It is better to fly from Bangkok instead Phnom Penh. You fly from Bangkok to Siem Reap or if you do not want to spend much money and have an extra day can travel by bus, the cheapest way to the border town Sisaphone and then to Siem Reap. There you can hire a car, for the buildings of Angkor are spread over a wide area. But remember there is entry fee, that time it was US$ 20 for a day, so it’s better if you are in the group could share a car and save time as well as money. I thanked Mr. Harmeet Singh who didn’t charge a single penny from me where as each foreigner paid US$ 30. I returned back to Battambong at night. She was very much worried and asked me to get ready to go out for dinner, where she called her two friends to introduce me. I took bath and moved with Peggy. Both went for the dinner in a hotel, where her friends were waiting for us. They were from Australia a male and a female. During dinner we talked about the various Countries Culture. One of the two Australian the female Ms. Kethy was teaching in a school, she got to know from Peggy, so she asked me to visit her school the next day for the speech. She told me that there was training for the teachers and there were teachers from all Province of Cambodia. I was happy that I could spread my message to all over Cambodia with the help of those teachers. Peggy and I came back at around 10 o’clock and slept. 13th Day Next day, I delivered the speech in Kethy’s school, it was little different speech for the teachers. After the speech as usual response from all and then I moved to Sisaphone or Binty Minchy close to the Thailand, border (Pol Pet) was just 20 Km. I reached Sisaphone at 2 o’clock and faced language problem to search CARERE. At last I got it and visited the office. There was one more Australian Mr. Peter. He was I think the first man who told me to stay at his house with in 30 seconds meet. He was such a great man, he hardly listened to me just saw first page of the file and asked me to stay at his house. He called his driver to drop me at his house. He told me to take rest and if I want food ask from the caretaker. I went to his house took bath and enquired for the English Centre Jen Sun School. The teacher was very young of my age and was one of the stupid. I explained him and requested for the speech. He said OK and went inside, I waited for him for long and when I saw students leaving the class room, I asked him but then I came to know, he didn’t understood. There was another teacher who was supposed to take the next class. He was good in English, I explained him the same and requested for the speech. Now the students were not good in English but the teacher helped me to convey my message in a better way. After the speech I came back, at home there was one more Australian Mr. Lee who does the similar work like me but he was paid for doing. We spent lot of time and I learnt a lot from him. Mr. Peter came at around 7.30 p.m. and then we sat for chatting. After dinner I watched a movie “Patch Adams” and it was again a very good movie. Cambodia in Short Cambodia is the successor-state of the mighty Khmer Empire, which ruled much of what are now Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. Among the achievements of Khmer civilisation are the magisterial temples of Angkor.There is no other historical site in South-East Asia that matches the grandeur of this ancient complex. Apart from the wonders of Angkor, Cambodia has a rich and proud culture, a charming French-era capital (albeit a little weathered) and impressive natural scenery. Present-day Cambodia is bloodied and bowed after two decades of internecine war and the July 1997 collapse of shaky UN-sponsored democratic reforms. The ramifications of Hun Sen's violent assumption of power and the death of Pol Pot remain to be seen. The question on everyone's mind when visiting Cambodia is, how safe is it? If you stick to Phnom Penh, its surrounding attractions and Angkor you should be fine. This is one country where heading off the beaten track is just plain stupid. Warning Even before the violence of July 1997, Cambodia was no picnic: any place that's a happy hunting ground for Interpol's most wanted is just not a healthy place to be. All visitors are advised to register their presence with their embassy and seek advice on the current security situation. Non-essential travel outside Phnom Penh and Angkor should be avoided. Although the danger of being kidnapped and murdered by the Khmer Rouge may have waned with the organisation's collapse, banditry is widespread and foreigners have been particularly targeted. Visitors should not attempt to enter Cambodia by land, except from Moc Bai in Vietnam. There is even tension along the Vietnamese-Cambodian border following Cambodian accusations that the Vietnamese are extending their territory several hundred metres into Cambodian soil. The amount of smuggling that takes place across the border also means strangers are often considered intruders. And if all of that's not enough, the land is still riddled with civil war-landmines specifically designed to maim rather than kill. Culture Khmer architecture reached its zenith during the Angkorian era (seen in Angkor wat and the structures of Angkor Thom). Many fine examples of Khmer sculpture can be found in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. Cambodia's classical dance is highly stylised and usually accompanied by an orchestra or choral narration. Theravada Buddhism is the dominant religion. Khmer is Cambodia's official language and can often prove difficult for foreigners. For over a century, the second language of choice was French, which is still spoken by many people who grew up before the 1970s. English has recently surged in popularity. A Cambodian meal almost always includes a soup, which is eaten with the other courses. Fish is the nation's mainstay, and grilled freshwater fish, wrapped in lettuce or spinach and dipped into a nutty fish sauce, is a particular speciality. 'Salad' dishes are flavoured with coriander, mint and lemon grass - three flavours, which find their way into many Cambodian dishes. The French influence is seen in the bread, baked turtles and frogs legs which are sold in the markets. Sweet dishes include sticky rice cakes and jackfruit pudding. The most popular local drink is soda water with a squeeze of lemon. The Currency of Cambodia is Riel (1US$=4,000) and Population almost 12 Million. Cambodian Flag is with Horizontal stripes of blue, red, and blue and a white temple appears on the red stripe. Environment Cambodia shares borders with Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. The country is dominated by two topographical features: the Mekong River and the Tonlé Sap (Great Lake). There are three mountainous areas: the south-west (Elephant and Cardamom mountains), along the northern border with Thailand (Dangkrek Mountains) and the north-east corner (Eastern Highlands). An estimated 75 per cent of the total land area surrounding Tonlé Sap is fertile lowland. Much of the country is forested with tropical vegetation dominating the south-west mountains and mangrove forest lining the coast. The climate is governed by two monsoons: the cool, dry north-eastern monsoon from November to March and the humid south-western monsoon from May to October. Average annual temperatures vary from 21 to 35ºC (70 to 95ºF). BACK IN THAILAND 1st Day It was 14th December, and Cambodia was the first country that I came out so fast. After Phnom Penh I didn’t walked. Covered maximum distance every day to avoid troubles mostly by travelling by Jeep. I thanked Mr. Peter but before leaving, he asked me if I have Thai Bath. I replied I would exchange on the border, he gave me more than 500 Bath and asked me not to exchange US$ on the border. I thanked him and moved in a taxi. I reached Pol Pet border town at 10 O’clock. It was second time in Thailand but this time I would travel by walk as per the expedition program. As per the expedition program it was my 9th country. After immigration check as soon as I entered Thailand, immediately many Motto Bike persons surrounded me. But I told them Dung Thao (means walk) they all laughed and were looking at me for long time. The nearest town was Aranya Pathet, just 6 Km. I was having enough time with me so I enquired about the another village and came to know, Wattan Nakhon was just 25 Km. I decided to walk, I had rice and fruit juice and walked on the highway. After few kilometers walk I saw a Military Hospital, I entered and asked for the Doctor. The Nurses and Sisters were not able to understand what happen to me and what illness I have that I was looking for Doctor. At last a Sister took me to a Doctor, I asked him if he knows English, he replied positively. I explained him in detail about me and took out the banner. I requested him to write Thai words for “Save Earth and Plant Trees”. He understood, first he asked me to seat and praised a lot. He asked one of his assistants to write, “Please do not use Plastic bags, Save Earth and Plant Trees” on cloth sticking Plast. I removed the earlier one in Khmer language and pasted the current one in Thai language. The road was much much better than Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. It was empty, hardly any vehicle run on this highway and that too with the speed of 100 or 120 Km/hr. It was very hot and no trees on the highway to take rest. I was quite safe in Thailand and was comfortable walk. I reached Wattana Nakhon in the evening at 5.30 p.m. One thing was good that Police were very different and much educated than all other three countries (Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia). In Wattana Nakhon Police Station, I showed the letter and requested for thuk thuk rung ram (Cheap Hotel) but one of the Policemen was very nice, he told me to stay in wat instead of spending money on accommodation. He was very happy for the message that I was carrying. I told him, I would stay in the wat and he himself came with me to drop and to explain the Monks. It was really very easy, the kindest people I ever met they respected a lot and tried to please me in all way. I was pleased for their behavior they were very good. They took me to a very big hall and besides that in the same hall there was one more little small hall with bathroom. It was very comfortable one of the monks kept a water bottle, hot water with a bottle of Milo (A sweet vitamin powder) and Milkmaid. Monks doesn’t eat food at night so I went out for the dinner with one of the Monks, who was very much impressed, taking care of mine and knew little English. While I was having rice, he spoke to the lady and told about me, result of his explanation, she didn’t charge me even a single Bath. 2nd Day Early morning, I saw many people came with the food mostly old people, all Monks seat together on the dais, first they pray and then they eat. After all Monks finished their breakfast turn comes of civilian like me (other than Monk). All those old people collect the food together and eat. First time I saw what relation was of Buddhist Monk and people. For people Monks are like God. The Monks took me to the chief Monk to see him, I was really in awkward situation, he was talking to me but I was not able to get exactly what he was talking about because the English speaking Monk was unable to translate it. He saw my Passport and said, “No Indian stayed ever before in their wat.” He praised my work and wished me. Later the English speaking Monk (generally everyone call all monks as “Pho”) showed me the wat. It was very huge and with very big area, wat campus was very clean with lots of trees. All monks do the cleaning work in the morning and evening everyday. Few Monks take care of garden and trees, few take care of food and few management. The work was very well distributed amongst all Monks. In the afternoon I visited a school but I didn’t get chance to speak with the students. The principal asked me to come next day in the afternoon and it was not possible. Even after requesting and begging a lot for the speech at the same time, he didn’t. At night again I had food but at a different place. 3rd Day Last night I bought a bread pack and a bottle of Jam, as I wanted to move early morning. I had bread with Jam and Milo. I thanked the Monk and moved at 6 O’clock, it was little dark but I did not wanted to walk in the sun and wanted to reach Sakeo in the afternoon because it was just 30 Km. Even on those highways I used to get small villages to take break for fruits. In the afternoon at 1.30 I reached Sakeo, got the place in wat Sakeo with the help of Police. The room was just 6 by 6 feet, congested and suffocating, there were three Monks from Cambodia were good in English. I got a Paper Pack in which there was a milk pack, 5 noodle packs, 2 pack of Orange juice, tooth paste, tooth brush, bath soap, surf and banana’s. I just remembered God and thanked, I was not getting a word for expressing my feelings. There was only one problem of Mosquitoes, when I requested for Mosquito Coil, Monk provided me a net that was much better for me. Everywhere I took lot of care of my health and so I never had serious problem in these countries. 4th Day It was the 17th December and I was very happy that I have passed successfully One Year and Nine Countries. I could not believe it, I felt really great and it was all because God. Provided so much of love and affection from kind people in all those nine countries. It was all because of my good work and hard work, I never gave up, I fought for getting it and got it always. I was excited and felt proud on myself for covering nine countries on foot. I thanked the Monks and moved towards Kabin Buri, it was 44 Km. In villages and small towns most of the children ran about naked, I envied them. In a village near Kabinburi, however, the girls were more modest. Mites of two or three wore a cache-sexy, which the Folies Bergeres would have envied. It consisted of three square inches of knitted wire, like a light mail, dangling from a narrow belt. One girl found it inconvenient in the conventional place, so wore it at the back. In the evening when I reached Kabinburi and visited Police Station, there was a girl who was very interested in me but could speak very little English. She took me to her house on her bike and introduced me to her mother. I spent just 10 minutes at her house and then her mother and sister on one bike and the girl and me on the other bike. So we four moved towards Kabin Buri wat, I could not believe, how much happy they were to help me, her mother forcefully took my rucksack and hold it, I would have hold it but no, she was very excited. All of them explained to the monks and requested them to accommodate me in the wat. Even the Monk didn’t take much time and I got the place in a hall again. I thanked the whole family and moved in with a young Monk. After bath I showed my photographs to all, when they saw, I talk to the students the English speaking old Monk took me to a technical school, it was inside the wat campus itself. The old Monk spoke to the English teacher and got the permission but for the next day. 5th Day Next day I spent whole day working with Monk, like in the morning I swept the ground with all Monks, then there was construction going on of a hall, I helped there to the Monks. In the evening I went to the Technical School for the speech. It was my first speech in Thailand, it was private English Centre same as in other three countries. Students were not good in English, I explained with drawing pictures on the board as well as some time the teacher used to translate in between. It was very good speech, they were all big or university students. There also I took around one and half an hour, it was very much interactive. Students asked me to sing a Hindi and an English Song. At the end even teacher sung a Thai Song. The first speech and very good response, I took a leave from the class. The old Monk was searching me for Dinner, as the wat was little inside, he took me to another very big prayer hall. There were many people in the hall, actually there was a death of a women and it’s Thai tradition, they pray for three days. During those three days the family, friends and relatives spend time praying in the wat. I had dinner with those people. 6-7th Day It was Sunday and I finished Thai Bath given by Mr. Peter of Cambodia. So I decided to exchange few US$ but for that I had to go to a big town and the next big town was Chachengsao, it was 90 Km from Kabin Buri. I reached Chachengsao with the help of hitchhiking. Stayed in the wat for the night. Next day I got the exchange of 50 US$. You might be thinking how do I finished the money though I was staying in the wat and almost all the time having food free except the day I walk. There were expenses like having some time fruits on the highway, Internet surfing, buying of Photo films, washing them, means Developing and Printing etc. etc. I saw variation in the Monks and wats. Few places Monks keep the wat very clean and few do not do any thing. In all the wats I have seen lots of Dogs and Cats fight for the food. No one thinks about sterilizing them to stop the growth. I saw many small puppies and felt very bad, many of them get the infection, which is very dangerous mainly all those animals I have seen they get etching and because of it they suffer a lot. At times I could not see the condition of the animals. It was so pathetic, NGO’s should do something regarding the animals. At least sterilize them so that we can prevent the diseases and tremendous growth. Second important thing I have noticed, Plastic Oh !!!!! My God !!!!!!!!! People in Thailand are the most users of plastic. For any thing they would use plastic even for a water bottle or vegetables in the market they would rap it in plastic. Tremendous use of plastic in Thailand, mostly you will realize when you go to any wat and see in the morning. Oh!!!!!!!!!!!!! If it is a big wat then you won’t get to see plastic bags less than Five-Kg and two Kg in case of small wat. All people they pack rice, vegetable, fruits, meat, curry and whatever they want to offer the Monks in Alms. There are lot of solution the way those monks can contribute to the nature. In the morning when two three monks seats to take out the food from the plastic bags (alms, which they get by the people). They cut the bags, means even if they are using plastic bags, they would have taken out the food by removing the rubber rapped on it so that the plastic bag could be reused after wash. But who will educate them. There should be group of people to educate and convince the people as well as to the monks and should run anti plastic campaign for long time. I thought, when I would get a chance to speak in any Rotary Club in Bangkok, I would tell and would ask the members to take up any project on the Plastic Issue, which would help to save our mother earth. There were not only plastic bags but also Plastic glasses and Plastic plates, means even in the wat the biggest worshippers of God do not think about environment. Only one good work I have seen, whatever waste or remaining food goes to the animals. But it’s really a serious question to think about the animal. The Dogs and Cats are growing in such a rate that later it would be very difficult to control it. I saw many dogs died in the wat, many were fighting for the life because of disease, some where I saw a dog who was lying since last three days at the corner of the wat. He was suffering and I could guess how much pain the dog was experiencing, it was much better to kill that dog and give relief from the pain. But the Monks also hardly cares even they do not want to kill the dog with their hand otherwise it would be a sin. So let the dog get his own death. One more thing they get thousands of water bottles, which they crush after use and throw in the dust bean. They can collect those entire water bottles and contact the companies to take it back so that at least companies can reuse it. 9-10th Day It was 22nd of December, last night (9th Day) I spent in Minburi in a wat, which was 40 Km and walked to Bangkok again around 35 Km, early morning. But there was lot of confusion, lots of over bridges and language problem to ask, even if I get the answer people used to show the direction but the problem I faced always that after going on the over bridge I used to get two or more turns and then stuck up. You won’t get even a single person on the highway by walk or on bicycle. At last I reached Bangkok in the evening and tried a Rotary Club member’s number, he gave me another number to contact and again the other member gave me one more number to contact. I decided to break up the chain each one was asking to contact so and so but no one wanted to help. I stopped contacting them and moved to the Temple, Dev Mandir “Hindu Samaj” in Pohurat where I stayed last time. All Panditji’s welcomed me and respected more than the first visit. I was very happy to stay with them Bangkok (pop. 5,876,000) is the capital and largest city of Thailand, and the only large city in that country. Thailand is a nation of small towns and villages, and Bangkok's population is more than 10 per cent of the country's inhabitants. The city lies on the delta of the Chao Phraya River. An area called Thon Buri, once briefly the nation's capital in its own right, stands on the west bank of the river. Krung Thep, which stands on the east bank, now comprises about four-fifths of the total metropolis. Bangkok is Thailand's major port and commercial and cultural centre, with an area of about 1,565 square kilometres. Thai people usually call the city Krung Thep, which means City of Angels or Heavenly City. But that is only the first part of its official name, which runs to 27 words. Bangkok was once called the "Venice of the East" because it had so many canals. The city is a sprawling, fast-growing metropolis. The finest of Bangkok's many magnificent temples and palaces stand near the river. The original Grand Palace, once the home of Thai kings, overlooks the river, but is now used only on formal occasions. Today, the royal family lives in the Chitlada Palace, about 2 kilometres to the northeast. In spite of its apparent shapelessness, Bangkok does have a number of distinctive districts, each with its individual character. The older part of Krung Thep lies to the west, between the river front and a north-south line running through the railway station. The newer residential and industrial areas, which cover an area twice as large as the old city, have developed to the east of the station. About 5 kilometres east of the Grand Palace, the streets are lined with modern hotel and office buildings, fine shops, nightclubs, and cinemas. The national Assembly Hall is surrounded by military camps. The main commercial district is located in Sam Peng, the Chinatown area. In this crowded region, the population reaches a density of 15,000 people per square kilometre. Pahurat, the Indian quarter, noted for its textile shops, is nearby. The wealthier families live at Bang Kapi, on the eastern fringe of the city. To the south of this prosperous region, crowds of poor slum-dwellers and migrants live in shacks around Khlong Toei, the port area overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. History of Bangkok: Until the late 1700's, Bangkok was little more than a riverside village. Then, in 1782, General Chao Phraya Chakri became King Rama I, and moved his stronghold from the west to the east bank of the Chao Phraya River. This meant that he was protected on three sides by a bend in the river. A vast muddy swamp protected the open eastern side. The new monarch was determined to build a city worthy of a new dynasty. By the time he died, King Rama had established the palace complex. The area around it was surrounded by a wall 4 metres high, 3 metres thick, and more than 7 kilometres long. It contained 63 gates and 15 forts. Thais believed that the king's palace was the symbolic centre of the universe, and the city's layout reflected that traditional belief. As a result, major temples and government buildings were located close to the palace, to bask in its glory. Less important buildings were constructed in more distant locations. Rama II (1809-1824) and Rama III (1824-1851) built additional impressive temples to serve as monasteries, libraries, schools, and hospitals. Rama IV (1851-1868) began to lay out major streets, as well as improving the Grand Palace and extending the canal system. But it was Rama V (1868-1910) who made the capital a visibly modern city along Western lines. He became well-known in the West as the hero of the story of Anna and the King of Siam, which was later transformed into the musical The King and I. Rama V demolished much of the obsolete city wall to make room for new roads and bridges. In 1892, he inaugurated an electric tram service, and in 1900, he opened the first line of the state railway system. He also built himself a superb three-storey, 81-roomed mansion, the largest golden teak building in the world. King Rama VI (1910-1925) continued this public works programme, establishing Chulalongkorn University in 1916 and creating Lumphini Park as the city's first public recreational area. In 1937, the capital was formally divided into two municipalities: Thon Buri, which had briefly been the capital from 1769 to 1782, and Krung Thep. Both these townships were then of roughly the same area, together covering about 100 square kilometres. But four-fifths of the population lived in Krung Thep. In 1955 and 1966, Thon Buri was extended. Similarly, in 1942, 1955, and 1965, Krung Thep was greatly enlarged. The two municipalities were reunited in 1971, and a year later Bangkok and two neighbouring provinces merged to form a single province--Krung Thep Maha Nakhon.

11th Day As per planning I moved to Singapore Embassy but before that I got a reference letter from Indian Embassy. In the office of Singapore Embassy the receptionist was very rude to me, as if they hate Indians or jealous how come Indian person going to Singapore or may be any other reason. She asked me to take visa from India, what a stupid she was. I explained her about the expedition and convinced, it would not be possible for me to get visa from India. Still unwontedly she gave me application form. I submitted along with the reference letter of Indian Embassy and paid 500 Bath visa fees. The receptionist asked me to come on 27th. In the afternoon I had been to a Rotary Club meeting in Grand Hyatt Hotel one of the five star hotels in Bangkok. I received warm welcome by the members after introduction and got the opportunity to talk in the meeting. Mostly there were foreigner and few Indians too. After the speech club supported me financially. A Rotary Club member and a teacher of a school, she asked me to visit her school for the talk. One more female member invited me for spending a full day in Thai House (There is a history behind the Thai House, as it is traditional Thai House and is more than 100 or 150 years old. There are very few Thai houses and most of the foreigner’s visit and stay there.) In the evening I moved on to Wat Po, nearby, the largest monastery in Bangkok. A hundred young bonzes were listening to a lecture by an elder, when it was finished they trooped into the library, again decorated in gilt, its roof rising in stages to a pinnacle. There is the usual melange of buildings. The largest, and ugliest, houses the statue of the Reclining Buddha. Surprisingly, it is made of brick, a layer of cement and a cover of gold. It is supposed to represent the transfiguration of Buddha as he enters Nirvana. As if it were not enough, there are 394 life-size statues of Buddha in nearby galleries. Wat Po may be the largest of the Bangkok temples, but Wat Arun, the Temple of the Dawn, is the tallest (which I saw later on 27th). Its centre is a colossal pagoda 229 feet high, it has a broad base and a series of terraces until it tapers off into a slender tower. Four smaller chedis and a host of minor buildings support it. I was intrigued by the supporting figures on the sides of the pagodas, colourful demons in long rows. There are four pavilions at the corners of the main pagoda. They contain famous sculptures, Buddha’s mother giving birth to him under a tree, Buddha sitting on the coils of the King of Serpents, preaching to his first five disciples, and dying in their presence. Inside the main chapel is an image of Buddha sculpted by a King of Siam. There are more than three hundred temples in Bangkok. Most are interesting, though many are suggestive of Walt Disney rather than of religious edifices. According to the Western eye their colours are brash and their architecture childish, Yet, at their best, they are unique and attractive. One at least has a touch of the West amidst its Oriental frills. Wat Benchamabopitr, or the Marble Temple, is modern. IT is built of white marble. Their gable ends are carved and brilliantly gilded, and the saucy terminals, too, are bright with gold. Inside is a massive gilt Buddha, a service had just ended, and the altar space was littered with gifts, mostly flowers knitted into symbolic patterns. The Temple is the headquarters of the Chief Buddhist Priest of Thailand, he has his own brilliantly decorated pupit and chair. At night while coming back I saw whole City, shops, hotels, were busy in the preparation of Christmas celebration. 12th Day Next day, when I was wanted to visit School, I went to WWF office to get some more posters and stickers. This time I got lot of stickers more than 500. Then visited the School in Kersasart University, the Rotary Club member and teacher’s was from the same school. I was surprised when she said I am very busy and speech would not be possible, but actually she was little doubtful, she might have thought, after the speech I would ask for funds. After requesting and begging a lot she permitted to give the speech only in one class. I requested her to combine at least two classes in one classroom, she agreed for that. I thought something is better than nothing, so I moved with her. I found that she was least interested as well as the students and teachers laughed at once when I entered the class. They might have thought what I would talk to them, but when I started my speech, I swear the faces of the students were turned into seriousness. First the teacher allowed me only ten minutes but when she listened to me nobody interrupted and it was great speech for more than half an hour. I used to ask few questions in between against which I gave stickers to the students as a memento. The Rotary member and other teacher were very impressed and appreciated a lot, they asked me if I could spend some more time in other classes too? I got happy but was hungry also because since morning I didn’t have any thing and thought of having breakfast outside but didn’t get time and place to eat. But when I started another talk I forgot hunger and really enjoyed a lot with all the students. It was like a kind of meditation, it’s true I experienced it many times, whenever I used to talk with the students I used forget everything and used to involve deeply in the speech. During speech I used to maintain very good relations with the students and made them understand in all possible ways. It used to be more interactive with seriousness. I spent whole afternoon till 4 O’clock in the school. Students used to ask the teachers to call me in their class for the speech, mostly girls. It was great experience in the first School I ever visited and delivered the speech in Thailand. I got lot of love and respect from the students as well as teachers. I even faced the situation like Vietnam and Laos where girls were in love with me and got lot of compliments from them. In the evening I came back in Sky train, just to experience it I paid around 40 Bath. The Sky train started just a month before and crossed all the barriers of traffic. It was very fast and person could reach very fast as compare to bus or any other vehicle. But it was expensive. I enjoyed it first time in my life. Later I went to the zoo to see the white Elephant, I got to see a very beautiful elephant. His skin was a paler grey than usual, and it had a thin coating of light hair which gave it an even paler appearance, his toes were nearly white, his eyes were almost pink, and the edges of his ears were content. His demeanour may, however, have been due to his afternoon meal, which had just arrived. I could not spend much time, as it was getting dark. So I moved back. At night Bangkok was looking beautiful! It was shining like a sun, whole streets, hotels, big buildings etc were decorated with lightings. It was amazing. But we got a bad News on the Christmas eve about Hijacking of Indian Airlines plane. 13th Day Being Sunday and for Mr. I. K. Gujaral (supposed to come at 11 O’clock) many Indians gathered for Satsang. I waited for Mr. Gujaral until 12 Noon but as usual Indian people and Indian time. Did any function or program started in time in India? The Rotary member Ms. Pornsri asked me to come to the hotel Grand at 1.30 as she promised to show Thai House. Ms. Pornsri came along with the three Sweedish people (they were in the Rotary meet with Ms. Pornsri). A female and two persons, we all sat in her car and moved to Minburi as the Thai house was at Minburi and was 40 Km away from Bagkok. One of them James was equipped with the latest technology, a handy Video Camera and a machine, I do not know what it was called but it shows the map and indicate where you are in radius of 25 Km. James told that if I carry the machine I will never be lost and even nobody can cheat you if you are going in a taxi. You just have to keep the machine at such a place so that it should accept the signals from the 17 satellites. It was amazing. We reached Minburi with in half an hour. But we had to go little inside, We could see the Thai House and it was beautiful, it was full of wood and Pornsri told us that it was around 100 years old, previously it was in Ayuthaya and recently five years back she shifted it to Minburi. We had lunch first and then spend whole evening knowing more about Thai house. First Thai House was build by Jim Thomson and he encouraged his friends to build such Thai House. Purpose was to spend weekends at a peaceful place with nature. That Thai House was build by mother of Pornsri’s friend, Connie and later her friend sold it to Pornsri. There was a Library and many historical collections of more than 400 years ago. We all signed her guest book. She was very kind, she told us that she has booked tickets for Boat Festival (King of River) in Bangkok. The festival was celebrated all over Thailand on the occasion of 72nd BirthDay of their King. Bhumibol Adulyadej (1927-...) became king of Thailand in 1946. He was the ninth sovereign in the Chakri dynasty, which was founded in 1782. Bhumibol became monarch after his brother Ananda, the uncrowned king, was found shot dead in 1946, shortly before his coronation. Ananda's death is still a mystery. Somdet Phra Chao Yu Hua Bhumibol Adulyadej was born on December 5, 1927, in Cambridge, Massachusetts, U.S.A. where his father was studying at Harvard Medical School. The family returned to Thailand but, after their father's death, he and his brother were sent to be educated in Switzerland. Bhumibol was then aged two. Apart from a brief return in 1938, he did not visit Thailand again until late 1945. After the death of Ananda, Bhumibol was named as the new sovereign by the Thai parliament. The country's absolute monarchy had been abolished in 1932. Bhumibol chose to delay his coronation and returned to Switzerland, where he studied law at the University of Lausanne. He was crowned King Rama IX on May 5, 1950, and married Princess Sirikit on April 28 of that year. Bhumibol has exercised little political influence over his country. His role is largely ceremonial, symbolizing the unity of the Thai people. Bhumibol is the grandson of King Chulalongkorn, on whose life the book Anna and the King of Siam and the American musical The King and I were both based. So in the evening around 6 O’clock we left the beautiful and peaceful place. But because of traffic jam, we were felling short of time to reach the river to catch the boat. In Thailand traffic keeps to the left, like ours in India. In Bangkok it often stands still. Despite one-way streets and other devices, there are long traffic jams, and the parking problem is already intense. “What will it be like in ten years’ time?” was the obvious query, often heard. At last after lots of struggle we could reach the river and even luckyly we could catch the boat at 8.00 at night, which we would have missed, if we had come five minutes late. We all got into the boat. I was the luckiest person to enjoy with such a good people. We had dinner on the boat and it was amazing first time again in my life, it was memorable night for me. We saw four stage shows performed by more than 100 dramatists for each show and the shows were at different places with amazing set up of stages. There were many boats and thousands of tourists watched and celebrated the boat festival. 14th Day As per the date given by the Singapore High Commission, on 27th I went but found my application was still lying at the reception. I was very angry on the lady, she didn’t forward my application, but then she asked me to wait. I waited and didn’t moved, at 12 O’clock she again asked me to come at 1 p.m. it was same situation like, in Laos I waited for Vietnam visa even the receptionist was same in behavior. After lunch again I waited for an hour and at 2 p.m. one of the officers asked me, how would I travel to Singapore. I replied, “By walk.” He laughed, wished for the journey and gave me visa. Another one Phase completed and now only final Phase i.e. Indonesia and Australia. I was having time so thought to see the Historical Wat, Wat Arun. There is a history behind the Temple of Emerald Buddha. Five hundred years age a shaft of lightning split open a pagoda in the north of Thailand. It revealed a stucco image of Buddha. Then a piece of the stucco flaked off, the rest was removed, to reveal the Emerald Buddha, carved in green jasper, about two feet high. The adventures of the statue were not concluded, as it wandered about in search of a permanent home. Again its temple was struck by lightning. Elephants transporting it to a new temple refused to walk. It found a refuge in Laos for more than two hundred years. But it was recovered, and, when Bangkok became the capital of Siam, the king built a new and ornate temple as the Buddha’s permanent resting place. The external decorations are lavish, but the interior is overwhelmingly flamboyant. The walls are covered with frescoes representing the Buddhist cosmology, but it is the Emerald Buddha, which holds all attention. It stands in a glass pavilion high above an amazing assortment of golden ornaments and gifts of the faithful. The statue wears robes, which change with the three seasons of the year, summer, winter and rain. The king himself changes them. Most temples have guardians, in this part of the world they are usually fearsome creatures of timber, stone or stucco. But daintier creatures, golden lion-maidens, protect the temple of the Emerald Buddha. The upper half is a girl, the lover a lion, with a tail held stiffly erect. Others are bird-girl, the lower a lion, with a tail held stiffly erect. Others are bird-girl’s top half and a bird’s feathers and rear. What a contrast between these lovely creatures and the giant demons which guard adjacent buildings! The latter are well over twenty feet high, made of clay and covered with glazed coloured tiles. Each holds upright an enormous staff. Their armour is multi-coloured, gilt predominating. Their knees have sprouted gilt wings, and their faces are blue or red or green, and their expression is that of an annoyed gorilla. The Emerald Buddha temple is one a medley, adjoining the royal palace. Here are pagodas, of all shapes and sizes from some hang temple bells, very appealing in a gentle breeze. Some are plain, others a maze of delicate colours. Their composition is amazing-it consists of irregular fragments of coloured pottery attached to the stucco of the chedi. It is as if the king or his priests had made a contract with the fair stalls where you pay to break up pottery. The story told to me- I cannot guarantee it, for a person (accompanied me and I used to ask him sometime) who was a Thai of vivid imagination, declared that a king decided to move his capital from one side of the river to the other, and in the move all the royal pottery was broken. Being a man of economic mind, the king used the fragments to decorate the Pagoda’s in the temple grounds. Wat Po and Wat Arun, both decorated with the broken pottery of the palace, are on opposite sides of the river. Some thing was wrong, the story was to believe or not that was the question. 15th Day On 28th evening I got financial support from Rotary club meet in Siam International. But before that whole day I was with one of the Rotary Club members and his family, Rotarian Desai, I was really lucky to meet another good rotary club member Mr. Desai an Indian who along with his family asked me to join with them. There are at least two of the stock sights of Bangkok, which are unique. We took a low-powered boat along the river then it turned off along a klong, a canal. The city was left behind; the banks were lined with palms and other tropical plants. We passed little villages of houses on stilts, built over the water, life and clothing were alike simple. As we reached the first village a very small boy fell into the water. I yelled to our boatman to turn in his direction, but he and whole family of Mr. Desai were uninterested. Mr. Desai told me, “They swim before they walk here.” The mother fished the boy out, and spanked him for being so careless. Then, having got wet, she decided that she might as well have a bath. She stood in the river, and used the blouse and a sarong, nothing else. We were almost round the next bend when we heard a roar of anger from her: the little boy had fallen in again. I was glad that I did not have to jump in to rescue him. The water was very dirty. The klong is used for all purposes-all. Yet the river people seemed healthy. Hundreds lived on the river, in boats with a semi-circular shelter. From time to time we passed small boats moving down the klong, near Wat Sai. There were hundreds of boats of all shapes and sizes. Some traded with houses on the banks, others with other boats. The variety of goods was amazing. In one small group I saw half a dozen boats loaded respectively with assorted fruits and vegetables, meat, charcoal, hats, Coca-Cola and Colgate’s Toothpaste. Some boats were travelling restaurants. One woman actually baked rice cakes on a charcoal stove in her boat, and did a good trade. It was quite fascinating. Here was a Buddhist monk, in his saffron robes, paddling his boat away from the market. He had finished his early morning door to door collection of food offerings from houses along the banks. He had bowls and a basket, and had received an amazing variety of foodstuffs. Doubtless someone in the monastery would sort it out before it was cooked. Here was a boat, load of children being paddled to school. Here was a postman; each riverside house had a box to receive its mail. Coming down stream where barges loaded with rucksacks of harbour of Bangkok. On our return journey we called at the boathouse of the royal barges. Every October the kind leads a procession down the river to the Temple of the Dawn to present new robes to the monks. His barge, the Golden Swan, is a gilt masterpiece. One hundred and sixty-six feet long, it was carved from a single tree, and needs a crew of fifty-four paddlers. The king sits in a golden pavilion amidships. There are eight barges in the boathouse, but thirty-five takes part in the procession, with priests, soldiers and notables aboard. It must be a remarkable sight, reminiscent of the ancient pomp of the Siamese court. All visitors to Bangkok know the Floating Market. There are many others; indeed, it is a city of markets-there are dozens of them. Less known is the Weekend or Saturday-Sunday market, around a stretch of green just out side the Royal Palace grounds. Its tents are only temporary, awnings to keep out the sun; its casual humility is in startling contrast to the elegance of the nearby palace and the glittering magnificence of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The market offers an amazing display of unusual foodstuffs, strangely prepared. Not all are appetising. One was described as ‘rotten fish paste’, and some of the sauces appeared to be as pungent as they were colourful. The goods are interesting, but the people fascinating. This is Thailand. An uninhabited crowd, in every variety of dress known from East to West. It is peculiarly attractive, primitive stalls, awnings flapping in the wind, ropes attached to the tamarind trees, every salesman or saleswoman a ‘character’- this is more interesting than a modern chromium-plated store. 16th Day On 29th I moved out of Bangkok, last night Aunty, Panditji’s (Pt. Lalit Mohan Vyas) wife, gave me half a Kg Almond. She was the first one in the temple to take care of mine for whole week. She, as well as every one in the temple was very kind. I met one more Panditji (Nand Kishore Maharaj) who was from Mumbai and was there to spend few days. In the evening I used to spend time with Panditji’s children, both were very active and talented. Those days there was news everyday about Hijacking. One of Panditji’s sons, Mahadev said, “Why our Indian govt. do not kill the terrorist instead of sending them in Jail or Prison. When there would not be anybody to rescue or demand, why terrorist would hijack our plane? Our govt. should be strict on terrorists part.” I was astonished on his thinking and really it was good point rose by 12 year old boy. I thanked everyone in the temple and after Aarti (prayer) I started walk. The start itself was with the wrong way and whole day I had lot of problems searching the right way. Mostly because of Over Bridges, I got the similar kind of note written in Thai stating, “I want to go to ……..(I should take the name of the place) such and such place on foot and please help me to show the way.” But even then I missed the way and walked wrong way always for at least half a kilometer. Once I was in very danger situation I saw the over bridge but at the same time the same road was going through under the bridge, so I thought I would get the same road so why to climb up the bridge. I walked but my thinking was wrong there was a U-turn and when I reached at the end, suddenly 8-10 dogs Oh!!!!! My God, dangerous all they were rushing towards me, I used to wear pollution mask, goggle and cap, immediately I removed it because dog’s might have seen such a seen first time in their life. Moreover I was with the rucksack, they were barking but afraid to attack just because of my Umbrella. I swear if I would not have had umbrella with me the dogs were such a terror, they would have torn me like a cloth and I would have got dead there itself. It was really dangerous and just because of umbrella I have saved my life. I was alone on that U-turn and was shouting on the dog’s but there was no body to listen. I was walking towards South of Thailand and first destination was Samut Sakhon a small town just 36 Km from Bangkok. In the evening I had to catch the bus for remaining 10 Km and reach Samut Sakhon. Since I left Bangkok I was facing problems on problems, I was in the Police Station to get help for the accommodation, one of the Policemen even asked me to wait and disappear. I waited for a long time but later I spoke to another officer, he spoke to his senior but the senior officer shouted on him, God knows why? But the officer dropped me at the gate of a wat. I went alone faced lot of difficulties of language even the Thai language letter could not work because the chief Monk could not read and there were not many Monks because it was already 9 O’clock. I decided to forget about the stay in wat and search for the hotel, but an old lady came she read the banner on my rucksack and enquired. I showed the letter and requested her to provide place for sleep. She was very kind, she asked one of the worker, as the construction work was going on, to take me to his room for the night stay. He welcomed happily and accommodated me in his room. The room means it was the same building, where construction work was going on and there was a hall where Mr. Thon was staying. I had dinner at that poor fellow’s house. I kept two noodles packet for him. The problem was of Mosquitoes but he was having Mosquito net. It was first experience of staying at such a place. 17-22nd Day I was having very comfortable walk every day and a day stop at a good place. Since 30th of December till 4th of January I crossed Samut Songkhram, Phetch Buri, Cha am, Hua Hin and was in Pran Buri for a day rest. Covered around 200 Km in six days with one extra day stoppage in Phetch Buri, where I celebrated the New Millennium amongst the Monks in a wat on the top of the Hill. All the places I stayed in the wat with the help of Police. Policemen always respected me a lot and came forward to help me every time. Now I would stay one more day after continuous walk for three days even Pran Buri was very good place and Monk also promised me to take me to the school. I was in a very good wat amongst very kind and friendly Monk. There were only two monks were good in English. One of them asked me to stay in his room, before that I was in a big hall and alone. When I entered his room, I was surprised to see, wooooooow what a room it was. I could not believe even Monks do have so much of infrastructure. There was a computer, Television, VCD Player, a small Refrigerator and even the room was air-conditioned. He told me to have anything whatever I would like. I had fruit juice always even I watched a movie also. 23rd Day Next day I visited three schools with those two monks in a car. I got the permission very easily because of the Monks, first two school students were not so good in English but I was used to such kind of situation and understood how to make them understand. The third school was very good and we spent lot of time in that school. Those Monks were highly enthusiastic and spent almost whole day with me visiting schools. In the evening we came back, the wat was on the hill and was looking so beautiful, all Monks were sweeping the whole campus, chief Monk watering in the garden, Sun set was beautiful and pick of the wat was shining because of the Sun rays few dogs and cats were playing in the ground etc….. Oh !!!! Woooooowww it was so good to see, it indicated peace and love. Every day whenever I walked out of the wat, Monks used to give me Packets of fruit juice, milk and fruits. Many times, many places Monks wanted to give me a lot but had to say, no to them. All Monks were very kind except few, negligible. I had variety of fruits in Thailand, which I never had or seen before in my life, the fruits were very sweet and delicious. 24-25th Day Since last few days I was experiencing tremendous heat. I used to stop at many places and take water on head, wash hand and sometimes even legs too. It was very hot. It was 6th January and I reached another small town Kui Buri in the evening. I got the place in a wat with the help of Police. I took a day rest in Kui Buri. 26-27th Day It was 8th January, I was really very happy since I entered Thailand I never stayed in Hotel, never spent money for accommodation. For food also I spent very little money since 14th December. During the walk many people, bus drivers, car drivers and many others, they used to look at me but there was difference no body was curios because of unawareness. Now the way of look was changed they were watching me with the curios eyes. Otherwise they used to pass without caring, it was because since I left Bangkok I was on the highway and people were watching me every day or whenever I walked. So those who saw me walking somewhere they might have got the shock. Many people used to show their hands. Day by day it was getting hot and hot, whenever I bought water bottle I put sugar and little salt to prepare Glucose water. In the evening, I reached Prachuap from Kui buri, it was 32 Km. Just. In Police station I had little problem, I had to force a lot to the Policemen to take me to the wat, but even in the wat I didn’t get much response, which I used to get everywhere. But I got an open place where a worker was also sleeping every day. I never minded for sleeping anywhere, there were few people washing pots preparing food. Later I came to know that they were all rich and doing selfservice, only the worker was getting paid. When those rich people came to know about me, they cared and spent lot of time. One man was very good in English so mostly I had a talk with him. His son, Boom was around 12 years old and was very nice kid. I requested Uncle for Mosquito net but he was not having an extra so I slept only using Mosquito repellent. Here too I spent an extra day. 28-32nd Day The distance between Thap Sake, Bang Saphang Noi and Tha Sae was much more and was impossible to cover in a day. Purposely I didn’t hitchhiked because I wanted to see the difference of the Monks staying in the urban and rural area. So I took stoppages on the highway and stayed in the wat’s six days in three different rural and undeveloped areas. Really there was lot of difference, off course you would find the difference but not so much. You hardly get to see any Monks in the huge wat’s and because nobody stays in the wat, many of the wat’s are loosing its charm and beauty. It was really very bad to know from an old Monk and Mey chi (an old lady live life like a Monk) that many young boys who want to become Monk, they run to the big cities or towns and stay in the big wat’s. I have seen few old Monks take care of the wat and hardly few villagers provide them food. I saw many dogs and cats again and really in very bad conditions. The Monks hardly get food, how and from where they would feed those animals. Few or at least any organization should do something for those animals. They should take project to sterilize those animals, so that there could be break for the growth if not fully but at least partially. Two wat’s were in the worst position, maximum part was damaged and looks like the whole wat would collapse. Only one thing was good in those wats, the surrounding area was full of trees and looks like forest. Sometimes any kind person from the town or city comes with very good food and fruits. At one wat where I stayed once, I felt very sad, because I finished film roll of my Camera, the lady (Mey chi) Monk and a young person of 13 years of age requested me to take their photograph. At first I didn’t understand how to explain them that film was not in Camera and if I say, “No”, they would have got hurt. So I decided to use flash without film to make them happy. I was not doing any thing wrong, it was said that if anyone is getting happiness, doesn’t matter whichever way you make the person happy. I got very high respect in those wats. I used to go around in the forest and do little cleaning work with old Monks. Parrots and parakeets were plentiful, and I saw other colourful birds, which I could not identify. And the morning bird-chorus in the villages was delightful. I stayed in very bad conditions all those place, everywhere Mosquito repellent was must because I slept in the open place. I was very serious to think about those Monks life. I found those Monks could live very good life and enjoy with many people because mostly all the places the Monks spend their time alone and there was no life at all. My thinking about life is very different and each one can live life with peace and harmony. In all I really spent a very good time in the villages. Lots of villagers used to come to talk and to see me, my photographs and used to spend their whole day. Some times I used to go to the house of kind villager for lunch or dinner on invitation. I found the village girls even were very beautiful. Mostly the population of female is more in Thailand, so in the villages also, I used to spend maximum time with the girls. They used to take me to their farm and used to go around the village. It was really a great time that I spent with the people in the villages. I used to face little language problem but after spending almost one and half months in Thailand, I was very good, not actually very good but good in thai, at least to communicate and rest through the body language. 32-37th Day After almost six days I got a good place. It was 15th January, I completed one month in Thailand and was in Chumphon, which was just 30 Km. From the last place that I stayed. The chief Monk of Wat Chumphon was very kind and highly educated. He appreciated my work and gifted a good small adventure storybook. I got a place in one of the Monks room. Next day, early Morning, I requested the same Monk with whom I was staying, if I could come with him, not for alms but to help him to carry his alms in the bag. Last night I spoke to the person (civilian like me) and found he walks behind that Monk every day. I was wanted to have such kind of experience, so I requested him to take me. He laughed and said, “OK” I was very happy and walked behind him with a bag in my hand. Walked with him for just an hour and came back. It was great experience, I got to know lot about the Monks but the only experience was remained even that I experienced and understood how Monks live their life. I stayed in another small village called La Mae, A civilian person accomodated me in his room, in absence of Phaw (Chief Monk). Last night, I reached in that village but could not sleep. Because the person called another person to sleep in the same room, I could not sleep whole night, as I was little scared of those persons thinking they might kill me because they were talking about money, how much money do I have for the expedition. But they were good persons, next day morning I visited a school, which was in the wat campus itself. Even in the villages I used to visit school where I delivered the message with the help of English teacher. All the school I got very good response. I helped for cleaning swept lot of area for more than one hour and cleaned the campus. 38th Day On 20th January I was in a very famous wat Suan Mokkh in Chayya, but to reach that wat I had crossed lonely and scary places. On the way, after around 20 Km. I met the same persons with whom I stayed last night. They really got a shock, they told me that they were doubtful about me, whether I really walk or not. They saw my T-shirt it was full wet and I was sweating. They praised a lot at the same time they were feeling guilty for checking. They wished me and left. The famous wat was just 50 Km from last destination but the road was through forest, lots of rubber trees and the area was inhabitant even that road was not busy with vehicles. But I knew that in Thailand I would not face any problem because I found people were very scary. Sometimes because of my Indian face, clothes and Rucksack, people used to get scared as if I would kill them. Like when I try to stop any vehicle on the highway, the driver used to drive faster than previous speed. Sometimes when I try to ask the route, people used to run away from me. Mostly it used to happen because of whole day walk my face and clothes used to get dirty. Any way, that day I was in wat Suan Mokkh. It was real wat in the forest, it was built by a Monk called Buddhadasa considering Buddha’s life. His thinking was to achieve meditation and peace, one needs to spend time in the forest the way lord Buddha lived his life. There were many giant trees and he didn’t cut it, except few places wherever he constructed dormitory, Meditation hall etc… I got to know that there are Meditation classes run by the wat Monks. There was Vippasyana Centre (Meditation Centre). Many foreigners come for the classes. The Monks were highly qualified Monks. I was staying in the dormitory where a person Mr. Mike from America was, he was there to join the Meditation Class, which would start after ten days. It was quite a beautiful place. I had a nice sleep at night. 39th Day Next day I visited the nearest very big School and got tremendous good response. I spent whole day talking to the students in four classes and four times. The teacher, Principal and even students wanted me to attained a function of the school in the evening. I always searched for the opportunities to explore more and more. I agreed and spend whole evening enjoying various programes. But the best was Thai classical dancing. I found it quite fascination and the costumes were beautiful. The movements of the classical dance are slow and deliberate, but the slightest gesture has a meaning. Some gestures are simple and easily comprehensible. A hand on the heart signifies love, a vigorous stamp and a pointed finger, anger. Often, however, I needed explanation, but always the movements were graceful. The girls swayed and glided, moving the arms and fingers with precise gestures. In one dance they wore excessively long fingernails so as to accentuate the sweep of the hands. The programme included some folk dances, they featured the Drum dance, in which the boys talk to the girls through their drums. Finally a battle scene, in which young boys made sparks fly as their swords clashed. It was all completely Eastern, consider the orchestra, two bamboo zylophones, three drums, a bell, a primitive one-string fiddle, flutes, and a remarkable instrument called the kong-wong. This was circular and the performer sat in the middle of it. Thence he tapped bells, which emitted sounds like muted gongs. Classical dancing was once solely an appendage of the Siamese royal palace. It is derived from Indian forms, modified to suit Thai conditions and playwrights, and they kept the palace dances alive. The slightest movement means something, a wrong gesture or hand movement can ruin the rhythm and meaning of the dance. Folk dancing is different. The Siamese are a happy people, full of joy. That their dances are slow is due to the prevailing temperatures. But they are natural. Any excuse will serve, a wedding, a harvest, a new baby, any time when people gather and drinks begin to flow. Yet Thai folk dances have one peculiarity, the dancers never touch each other, this is not due to excessive modesty, the heat is again responsible, nothing is less alluring than the touch of sweaty flesh. 40-42nd Day After spending nice time with nature, I moved to Surat Thani and it was again 50 Km. But during walk blood came off from my nose, it was very hot. I met lot of Indians on the way and here in Surat Thani also I met few Indian. All Indians those who come in search of Job, I got to see their life. Really there is no life at all, they come all the way from India leaving their parents and whole family. Stay in groups or alone in the cities. They travel through villages and sale various household items and cloths. I saw most of the Indians sale the material in installments without any paper work just orally and on trust. I enquired with few Indians, what they do, when people do not pay. They said, either they get back the goods or else they had to forget about it means loss. But generally the Thai people are trustworthy, they would pay every day 10 Bath, 20 Bath or 50 Bath for a month or two and clear the amount of the goods they purchase by Indians. Once our Indians sell anything next day onwards they have to visit that shop or house everyday for collection. Indians hardly goes back to their family once in a year. In each city there are lot of Indian Families and mostly you will find Sardarjee’s (Punjabi). All the big cities there are Gurudwara’s (Sikh Temple). After Bangkok first time I spent very good time with the Indians in Surat Thani. I had dinner with them and came back to sleep in the wat. In Surat Thani I spent two days and visited Surat Thani Pittyalaya (School). Here also I spent whole day in the school, even I had lunch with the students in the canteen. In many schools in Thailand I have seen canteen where students get food very cheap and hygienic. My speech used make students very happy and they used to fall in love with me. In Surat Thani in the wat where I was staying, the young Monk was very nice. He was intending to go to India for further studies, he speaks very good English and used to study a lot. He showed me 100’s of books and English cassettes through which he learnt English. 43rd Day I thanked the young Monk and moved on 25th January toward Si Chon a small village, but the distance was very far so I stayed in a wat after 35 Km. Then I stopped at Tha Sae, there I had to struggle for accommodation. First Police didn’t helped. I went alone and the record book where Police as well as wat (I used to get it from wat Phow also) Phow used to write about the expedition and stayed for such and such period. It helped me a lot for the villages where I didn’t get Police or in places where Police didn’t helped me. First he denied because not even a single room was empty, but then when he read the message on my rucksack, he showed me one room, which was very dirty. I said, I would clean it and cleaned it in an hour’s time. Even all the other Monks were cleaning the campus. After cleaning I took bath, went to him and showed the photographs. The chief Monk found me genuine and praised a lot. He provided few fruit juice Packets because at night Monks doesn’t eat, they could only drink and eat fruits. There was only one problem with the room was no mosquito net but then Mosquito repellent was my friend with me for the protection. 44-44th Day In Hua Sai, I met very friendly and highly enthusiastic Policemen. After crossing Nakhon Sri Thammarat and spending two very good days, visited a School where students were very good and I spent whole day since morning till evening. Even I had lunch with the students and teachers. I got lot of respect and I was the hero or star for the students. So on 29th I was in Hua sai, in the main Police Station there was a Police Officer from Community Police, he listened to me while explaining to the other officer. He asked me to go with him to stay in the Police Station. I thought he was joking but no, he was serious. He was very active and happy, he told me, once they have helped two persons like me but they were on bicycle and stayed with them in the Police Station. When I reached there, I found it was not a Police Station but there were four to five rooms and few persons who were caught by the Police to make them good persons and guide them better. And that was the aim of Community Police to help people to develop and bring them back on the right track. I got a place in the same room with those bad persons but I kept my rucksack in the Police Officers room. Seashore was just 100 Mtr away but it was dirty. In the city one of the officers took me to the Pakistani Restaurant, but that Pakistani old man was not good and I was very angry on his one question, “What religion do u follow?” I didn’t answer many people even Monks used to ask me about the cast or religion. I hate to answer that question because I have been helped by almost all religious people and I believed that there is some one who helped, saved and took care of mine. There is only one God and I do not know which religion that God follows, I believe HUMANITY and LOVE. It’s fact if people forget about all the religion or cast and come together, there will be peace and love everywhere, whole world will speak only one language that will be of Love and Peace. I pray to that only God to make this world a beautiful place, where everyone will love each other and will die for each other. There will not be riots amongst Hindu-Muslim, Shiya Sunni and any other religion. 45-48th Day On 1st February I moved Hat Yai, spending nights in Jatingphra and Songkhla. During walk, again the heat problem, such a tremendous heat was, the bottom sole of my shoe came out. I could not walk ahead, Songkhla to Hat Yai was just 30 Km and the sole came out just after 15 Km. Because of heat I used to stop at many places to take water on head and wash face. Because of that it was afternoon to cover even 15 Km. Later I got a very good boy who dropped me up to Hat Yai. It was main big City of the South Thailand. I knew there was Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) in Hat Yai, I was very happy thinking I would get to stay with Indians after long time. But the Gurudwara was closed and nobody was to take care. I met a Sardarjee Mr. Sandho, I explained him and requested for the accommodation in Gurudwara. He told me to visit the president and ask but before I leave he invited me for dinner. Still I searched an Indian’s shop and enquired with him, luckily he was the President of the Gurudwara. But he was very cool and didn’t respond. At last I told him, if it would not possible to stay in Gurudwara then I would stay in the wat. So I went in the wat and got a very good room, in front of the Chief Monk there was a School Principal, he listened about the expedition and asked me to visit his school, which was in the same campus. I went to a Cobbler and repaired the shoe. At night I went for dinner at Mr. Sandho’s house had very good Indian dinner after long time. He was English teacher and conduct private coaching classes. He was around 70 years of age and was very angry on our Indian youth. When he was talking it seemed like he was blowing fire so much frustration and angers our NRI’s (Non Resident Indians) have. I saw the first person no I should say patriot firing like anything on the situation of India. I could understand what he and people like him might be thinking about better India. He talked a lot about corruption, strikes, poverty and many other problems. I was very happy to see that Indians means NRI’s thinks a lot about developing India. 49th Day Next morning first I visited the school that was in wat campus. Later I went to a News Paper office, Focus Songkhla. The Reporter asked me to wait, as he called an English teacher for the Interview. After long time the teacher came, took interview and later he took me to his School. I delivered the speech in three classes. Sometimes in big cities whenever I delivered the speech at the end I used to request for Internet surfing. The teacher was very excited and took me to another nature lover, a Doctor spend some time with him. Whole day I spend with the teacher and enjoyed a lot roaming around the city and going places. 50th Day On the way to Yala I would have got in trouble. When I left Cha Na on 3rd February in the morning just after five Km I saw a person walking behind me. He was wearing a short and T-shirt without footwear. First time I didn’t bothered but after two hours I saw him again. He was walking but some times he used to go ahead at the time when I used to take rest. Till noon the place was habitant but once I crossed a very big bridge and saw that person. He used to look behind and walk. I understood the person was walking for me and it would be high risk ahead if I continue walk. I waited for hitchhiking and got it. Just after 5-6 Km I saw the road was inhabitant with full of forest and lonely. I got to see that man and what luck when I passed him he was looking behind and I saw his eyes were searching something. I thanked God for saving my life. Otherwise definitely he would have done something in that forest. In the evening, I could reach at a junction where one road goes to Pattani and other goes to Yala. But Yala was still around 40 Km. There was a Military Camp after 2 Km I thought of staying there in the wat but the Military men were so interested to spend night with them, though it was restricted area for foreigners. Off course they did not allow me to go beyond the check post. There was a room for the security guard, they asked me to sleep in that room. But at night lots of military men were going towards the stadium. One of them took me along to show the Kick-Boxing. Thai entertainment was more lively if less artistic. Two boxers entered a ring. They knelt down to pray to their gods for victory, although assuredly both could not win. Next a warming-up dance around the ring, to the accompaniment of sparring, some half-hearted blows, and then one boxer kicked his opponent in the pit of the stomach. He gasped, and retaliated by kicking the other in the back of the neck. Elbows came into action. The fight went on in a whirl of arms and legs, the legs seemingly more damaging than the arms. “But his is dangerous” I said to that Military man who was very much friendly with me and he only brought me to show the Thai Boxing. “They might get seriously hurt.” “They do, very seriously hurt.” He replied. “Can they do anything they like? Are there any rules?” “Oh, yes, there are rules, very strict rules.” “Such as?” “Well, they are not allowed to bite.” At this point a boxer collapsed after a kick in a very painful spot. He was promptly carried off, and a new bout began. May be biting would be comparatively soothing. Thailand is a gently country, but fighting is popular. Even I heard of fish fight also. 51-52nd Day Next day was the celebration day. The Chinese New Year started from 5th February. I thanked my military friends and moved to Yala. On the way I enjoyed the celebration and heard that it was a special year known as Dragon Year, it is supposed to be the luckiest year. Chinese says, “Child born in this year would be the luckiest.” It is the main Chinese religious festival. It usually falls in late January or early February. The celebrations start on the first day of the new moon after the winter solstice. Families pray together. They thank the gods for the year gone by. They also celebrate with noisy rejoicing and feasting. The Chinese exchange gifts wrapped in red paper. They consider red a lucky colour. They let off firecrackers, light candles, burn joss sticks, and pray for their ancestors. After reaching Yala, after long time, I got to stay in Gurudwara, with my Indian brothers. Early morning I moved from the Camp and reached in the evening in Yala, Mr. Sandhu (Hat Yai -Indian) told me about the Gurudwara. There were two Indians staying in Gurudwara, first they thought I am someone like them selling things, so they were little unhappy but when I explained them about the expedition they welcomed me. One of them Mr. Bhupinder took the permission from President to stay for two nights. I was tired during walk because of heat blood came off again from the nose. Even after lot of precautions like I used to wear a hat, sun goggle, pollution mask of cotton cloth and most important umbrella. It was third time in Thailand that I faced the blood problem. Mr. Kewal, Mr. Bhupinder and Bhabhiji, wife of Mr. Kewal, they took lot of care and showed me their work, what they and other Indians like them do in Thailand. Even they told me that once in six months they had to cross the border, so they either go to Myanmar or Laos. Those places are very far though Malaysia border is very near to them they cannot cross because Indians are not allowed by land. When Mr. Kewal told me about that condition then I realized why the receptionist of Malaysia Embassy in Phnom Penh, asked me to give the passport even after getting visa and why she has written on the visa as WWF-South East Asia expedition. She even told me if the officer creates problem, I should show the copy of WWF letter. At night we all went for dinner outside and it was unforgettable. They were very poor but they forced me for dinner when I denied and said unnecessary why to spend so much money. I was very pleased but I never like spending people’s money. They were very good. 53-55th Day I left good people’s company after a day stoppage and visited two schools on the way to Ya Ha a nearest small village in the afternoon and then to Bettong next day on 8th. It was the border town I spent an extra day in Bettong to know little about Malaysia as lot of Malaysian comes for enjoyment (I heard Malaysian govt. is very strict on prostitution so most of the young persons come to Bettong to spend nights with the prostitutes). Luckily I met a group of four Malaysian (Indian origin) persons, I explained them and requested to guide me little on all aspects, about people, safety, temples or Gurudwaras, about the Police and everything, which was required for me. One of them Mr. Ganesan was very nice person and he helped me a lot for all. He helped me for exchange of Thai Bath in to Malaysian Ringgit. I got around 100 Ringgit for 1000 Bath means 1 Ringgit was equals to 10 Bath. On 9th morning I visited School and delivered the last speech in Thailand. In Bettong there was a World’s tallest Post Box, I came to know about it when I wanted to post the letters. What happened, I was searching for the Post Box in the main market and enquired with a shopkeeper at the main square. He pointed on one direction, I moved on that direction and searched but could not find. I went again to the same shopkeeper and asked him again. This time he showed me clearly it was just 10 feet away from the shop where as he was laughing. I couldn’t believe it, no one could imagine about the presence of Post Box, it was really the tallest one. I guessed how many times the shopkeeper have enjoyed the show, when foreigner come, ask and he points out and later enjoy the foreigners expressions of searching the Post Box. While searching I did passed the Box but it was taller than what generally we expect to be. I laughed a lot and took a snap while posting few letters. I spent almost two months in Thailand and Thai culture was little different than previous countries. Monarchy and religion are the two sacred cows in Thailand. Thais are tolerant of most behaviour, as long as it doesn't insult one of these. Buddhism is the dominant religion, and orange-robed monks and gold, marble and stone Buddhas are common sights. The prevalent form of Buddhism practised is the Theravada school, which emphasises the potential of the individual to attain nirvana without the aid of saints or gurus. Make sure you are suitably dressed when visiting a temple - no shorts or singlets.

ABOUT Thailand

Thailand is a tropical country in Southeast Asia. The people of Thailand are called Thai. Most are farmers and live in small, rural villages. However, Thailand has one of the fastest growing economies in the world, and its urban centres have expanded rapidly. Almost 6 million people live in Bangkok, Thailand's capital and largest city.

Thailand is the only nation in Southeast Asia that has never been ruled by a Western power. The Thai people date their history from A.D. 1238, when the Sukhothai Kingdom was founded in what is now Thailand. For most of its history, the country was called Siam. In 1939, it officially adopted the name Thailand.

Thailand is a constitutional monarchy, a form of government in which the constitution limits the power of the king or queen. The nation's Constitution provides for a monarch, a Prime Minister, and a legislature called the National Assembly. The monarch has an advisory role as head of state, and the Prime Minister heads the government.

In Thailand, monastic beggars are one thing, they confer a favour on you by allowing you to contribute, you usually kneel when adding your mite to the contents of their bowl. Indigent beggars are quite different, and are seldom encountered in Thailand. There are few over-rich, and few over-poor. It would be almost impossible to starve. The country produces ample food to feed its population and to export in considerable quantities. True, few Thais feel any urge to work very hard. They can earn a simple living by moderate effort, why should they sweat to gain more?

They have no especial aptitude for trade or may be they lack the energy it entails. Hence two-thirds of Thailand’s commerce is in the hands of the Chinese. Today Thais are going into business for patriotic reasons, because they do not believe that all the Chinese are to be trusted, double loyalties can be dangerous.

Yet the Thais themselves originally came from southern China, they were driven out by Kublai Khan in the thirteenth century. For a while they were subjects of the powerful Khmer monarchs, but alone in South-east Asia they have never been a colony to a Western power.

Most Thai villagers live in traditional wood houses that are on stilts. The houses are built 2 to 3 metres above the ground mainly for protection against floods. In towns and cities, houses are typically made of stucco or concrete and are not on stilts. Middle-class Thai, especially in Bangkok, live in apartments, or large developments of single-family homes. Some shop owners live above their shops. The government provides limited housing for the urban poor, many of whom end up living in slums.

Eduational part, more than 85 per cent of Thailand's people 15 and older can read and write. Thai law requires children to attend school from age 7 to 14. The government provides free public education, but some students attend private schools. Only a small percentage of Thai students continue schooling beyond the required years. Thailand has 15 universities, several large institutes of technology, dozens of teachers' colleges, and numerous vocational colleges.

I will say Thailand means ‘The Land of Hospitality’, they are a happy natured people, their religion teaches them to be gentle, they are very tolerant, their culture and outlook have borrowed freely from India, China and Cambodia.

There is more visible historical evidence of past eras in Thailand than in any other South-East Asian country, so if you're interested in ruins, temples and deserted cities, this is the place to go. For pure holiday-making magic, Thailand's islands and beaches are working definitions of heaven (once you get out of the shadows of the evil multinational hotels). And as for urban delights, the huge metropolis of Bangkok, although it can alarm with its chaos and its scale, tends to so charm visitors with its energy and cultural treasures that the steamy soupy diesel mixture that passes for air in this city is more than forgiven.

Thailand is an easy country to travel in, with efficient transport, cheap accommodation and a delicious national cuisine. The Thais are renowned for their friendliness and hospitality to strangers. Although they're often depicted as fun-loving, happy-go-lucky folk (which they often are), they are also very strong-minded and have struggled for centuries to preserve their spirit of independence.

Population of Thailand is 62 Million and The Currency of Thailand is Bath (1US$= 40) but fluctuate always. Thailand's flag was adopted in 1917. The red represents the nation; the white, purity; and the blue, the monarchy. The national emblem, adopted in 1910, shows the garuda, a birdlike creature of Southeast Asian mythology.

Warning

The Cambodian and Myanmar border areas contain a volatile mixture of land mines, bandits, smugglers and rebels, and are the scene of occasional low-level military stoushes. Travellers should steer well clear of the borders or contact their embassy to receive the latest reports on the security situation.

An incident in March 2000 in which one Australian tourist was murdered and his partner attacked in the Doi Ang Khan National Park in Chiang Mai has prompted embassy warnings not to camp in undesignated areas in national parks.

Anyone foolish enough to accept free air-tickets and a new set of luggage from sudden friends in Bangkok deserves to be called a mule.

Environment

Thailand shares borders with Malaysia, Myanmar (Burma), Laos and Cambodia. The country's east coast borders the Gulf of Thailand and the west coast abuts the Andaman Sea. The country is divided into four main zones: the fertile, central plains of the Chao Phraya River; the poorer region of the 300m (985ft) high northeast plateau; the fertile valley and mountains of Northern Thailand; and the rainforested southern peninsula. The highest peak is the 2596m (8512ft) Doi Inthanon in Chiang Mai province.

Thailand's forests once abounded with tigers, wild pigs, deer, crocodiles, king cobras and other snakes, and many varieties of birds. But since the mid-1900's, many species of wildlife in Thailand have become endangered. These animals are threatened with extinction, in part because thousands have been killed for profit. In addition, agriculture and industry have destroyed many of Thailand's forests. In the past, many elephants lived in the wild in Thailand. Today, however, most of the country's remaining elephants live in captivity. Some Thai families make pets of such wild animals as monkeys, catlike mammals called civets, and squirrels.

Monsoon forest or rainforest covers a quarter of Thailand and the country has an incredible array of fruit trees, bamboo and tropical hardwoods. There are 66 national parks and 32 wildlife sanctuaries, covering 11 per cent of the country. They contain more than 850 resident and migratory species of birds and dwindling numbers of tigers, leopards, elephants and Asiatic black bears. Unfortunately, attempts to stop the logging of rainforests and illegal trafficking in endangered species are fighting an uphill battle against corruption, officials only too happy to make a buck on the side, and tourists packing an exotica or two down their dacks as they walk through customs. The tiger, for instance, is one of the most endangered of Thailand's mammals but the market for tiger organs, particularly in China, is so lucrative that poaching is still a viable career option.

Overdevelopment on Ko Phi Phi is starving the coral reefs of sunlight and smothering the surface in pollutants: the destruction of the reef is a micro-example of the problems occuring on a national scale, with the finger being pointed in the direction of tourism. In May 1999, protestors packed the beach where the filming of 'The Beach' was taking place: environmentalists were concerned that filming would destroy the delicate eco-balance of the beach. Ironically, the film was about the destruction of native cultures and environments by hordes of dropped-out, alternative life-seeking backpackers (curiously, the filmmakers were silent on the issue of hordes of filmmakers destroying delicate eco-balances).

Thailand has a tropical climate. Most of the country has three seasons--a hot, dry season from March to May; a hot, wet period from June to October; and a cool, dry season from November to February. Bangkok has an average temperature of 25 °C in December and 30 °C in April. The mountain areas are cooler.

From late May to October, winds called monsoons cause heavy rains throughout Thailand. The Southern Peninsula region may receive more than 250 centimetres of rain in one year. Bangkok has an average annual rainfall of 140 centimetres.

Malaysia

1st Day

On 10th another Historical day for me I moved towards the Malaysia Border, I was just 6 Km away to cross the 10th Country of my expedition. At the border as Indians are not allowed by walk, the immigration officer asked me to see the senior officer. I had to show him the letter from WWF and then he allowed me to enter but I have seen corrupted officer, no they were beggar, at the custom check post the officer asked me for souvenir. I said, “Sorry I do not have anything to give.” In Malaysia the first destination was Girek 40 Km. Mr. Ganesan told me that there would not be any problem for walk even though there was less habitation, scary way with thick forest and vehicles you get hardly one or two in five minutes. Mr. Ganesan guided me very well and according to that I moved. Mostly it was a lonely walk but beautiful scene. The highway was passing through the hills, the roads were same as in Thailand. Here villagers used to look at me with the curiosity and almost similar response, but I was little away from the girls. It was not free country that one can freely talk with any girl. I had lunch and food was again what you expect, one can have rice, rice and rice only in all South East Asia. I paid 2 Ringgit for food means there was not much difference in prize. I walked till evening and around 10 Km before I got a Hospital. I visited and contacted a Doctor, there was no problem for language mostly many Malay people could speak English. I explained a lady Doctor about the expedition and requested to write Malay words for, “Save Earth” and “Plant Trees” on my Banner again on sticking last. The whole staff was very impressed and wrote it for me. It was already 6 O’clock Malaysian time. Malaysia is half an hour fast than Thailand and two hours from India. But still it was not dark. One of the Doctors was staying in Girek, he helped me to reach the remaining 10 Km and dropped near the Police station. I saw many Indians in the village and their standard of living was same as in India. I saw a drunker walking on the road and shouting, as you gets to see in India. The house structure and many other things were similar to India. I found few Indian in Police Station also but they behave rudely with me they thought as if I am salesman, when I showed them the banner, they apologize and asked. I took the stamp and enquired about the Indian Temple. The police directed me to one Tamil Temple, as in Malaysia you will find only Tamil and Punjabi Indians mostly. I got the place in the temple after requesting and showing file and photographs to the Panditji. So the first night I was again in the temple.

2nd Day

First morning in Malaysia, it was foggy and when I thought of moving at 6 O’clock means 5.30 Bangkok time and it was still dark. So I waited for some time and moved to the second destination Lenggong and stayed once again in Indian temple but I found here Indians were least interested to help me. Being Friday there was lot of rush in the temple because it was prayer day. Many Tamil Indians came for the prayer and found a new face, as my rucksack was also in the same hall. Few persons enquired with the priest and when they came to know about me they were very happy and excited, some one from India walking through Malaysia. Persons and girls spent lot of time with me but nobody knew Hindi, they said I am the first Indian person to stay in their small village. I had Indian tamil food, I was highly respected and cared by those youngsters.

3rd Day

On 12th first time in Malaysia I stayed in Gurudwara in Kaula Kangsar and it was on the highway itself. Met a young gyaniji who took permission from the president Mr. Sarjeet Singh. I helped the young gyaniji to prepared food and had a good dinner with Roti (Chapati’s) after long time.

4-5th Day

Next day Mr. Sarjeet Singh President came in his Car. He brought a T-shirt for me, actually he was a sports man and coach for cycling. He was very enthusiastic man and he guided me regarding Highway and Old road. So far I was walking on the old road, where you get villages or houses and people on the Old road. The Highway was much shorter but you won’t get habitation or hotels. I thought of experiencing the Highway walk because Ipoh the next destination and was just 30 Km by Highway where as 45 Km by Old road. So if I found comfortable then I could continue rest of my journey through Highway. Mr. Singh dropped me near the Highway, here he gifted me one very good and strong Umbrella. I thanked him and moved but when I saw the Highway it was totally different than India or any other countries that I visited not even Thailand. The highway was through the forest and hills. Vehicles run at a speed of 140 or 160 Km per hour. It was hot and lonely walk, I never scared but just after crossing few kilometers I decided not to walk on the highway. It was just impossible no hotels, no people nothing except Petrol Pumps at distance of every 10 to 15 Km where one can have food, water and all facilities, can take rest also. At last I reached near Ipoh on the old road at 5 O’clock.

I have got the bitterest experience, at a square near the market I was very confused about the road so I tried to enquired but God knows he replied something in Malay and I said OK forget about it but those two persons thought I used bad words. They just got up and started beating rudely, I shouted a lot but they continued and beat a lot, few people ran and caught them. My T-shirt was full with blood and blood was coming from the nose. After clarification and looking at the banner people found them guilty. I was very angry on them for beating, tears came out of my eyes all people were cursing him. Even both the persons apologized for their mistake but what’s the use, I got hit on my nose and full of blood. People wanted me to take to the hospital but I was so much depressed that I hate all Malaysians. It was the first country I have got beaten so badly. I washed my face with water many people were gathered around me to see. Every one showed sympathy when they get to see the rucksack and the message on the banner. I cried a lot and moved from that place. I thanked God for saving my life otherwise those people are like Indonesians, as that time the Timor problem was going on and I saw many pictures on the Internet how cruel were those people, they killed so many men as if people kill the animals.

I stayed in Gurudwara. Next day in Ipoh I could visit one school, it was a Tamil School and teachers were all Indian origin even students. It was the only school that I could deliver the speech in whole Malaysia. Later I visited The Star (English) and Nan Ban (Tamil) News Paper office, Reporters took my interview.

Ipoh is the second largest city in Malaysia. It is the capital of the state of Perak. Ipoh is located inland in the valley of the Kinta River, one of the world's most important tin mining areas.

Ipoh is one of Malaysia's leading, inland ports. It is well equipped with warehouses and cargo-handling facilities. Containers are taken directly by road and rail from Ipoh to harbours at Port Kelang and Penang Island. Ipoh is an important commercial centre. It has offices, hotels, and shopping and entertainment complexes on both sides of the Kinta River. Industry is of growing importance to the city. Ipoh has a mixture of old and new buildings. It combines the atmosphere of a colonial town with that of a modern city. Its railway station is in one of the city's best known landmarks.

The city is named after the ipoh tree. The area's first inhabitants extracted poisonous sap from this tree to use on darts, which they shot from blowpipes.

6-10th Day

I left Ipoh and after two days there was my news in Malaysia’s famous News Papers English, “The Star” and Tamil, “Nan Ban”, while walking people used to stop their vehicle and ask if I would like to hitchhike, many people used to show their hands. Everywhere I tried to visit Schools but lots of problems, teachers and Principals used to ask to get the permission from the Education Dept. Once in Ipoh I did visited the Education Dept. but failed to get any kind of support. Those were stupid, they won’t do anything and would not help others to do. Because of such people in the world, environmental conditions are becoming worst and worst. After Ipoh I crossed small towns, Tapah, Slim River, Tanjong Malim and Rawang. All the places I stayed in the Gurudwara and met many kind peoples. I saw the life of Indians, except Rawang all other places were villages and our Indians live life same as Indians live in India with poverty and suffering. Otherwise I have seen Chinese and Malay their life was much better than Indians here.

11th Day

It was 20th of February and walked towards Kaula Lumpur, it was just 26 Km from last destination i.e. Rawang. I moved early morning in dark and did the fastest walk because I knew being Sunday I would meet everyone in the Laxmi Narayan Temple, as they come for Satsang. (Preaching and Prayer) Pandit Lalit Mohan Vyasji of Bangkok told me to visit the temple and refer his name. While walking much before Kuala Lumpur around 20 Km, I could see the Petronas or Twin Tower (The Worlds tallest Building) and Menara (another tallest tower) It was amazing, since long I heard about it but that day I was watching it. I was very excited and happy to see it. In the afternoon at 12.30 I reached Laxmi Narayan Temple and spoke to the President. When I gave reference of Bangkok Panditji, and showed the News Paper cutting of Malaysian News Paper, he accommodated me in a room in the same temple. Woooow the room was great like a five star hotel it was air-conditioned. Being Sunday there was lunch in the temple (Every Sunday lunch is provided in the temple). I kept my rucksack and had lunch. Later I called up Mr. Ganesan whom I met in Bettong at the Border. He recognized and told he would come to pick me. He took me to show the city, being Sunday it was holiday for him, he came with his two friends where we took a ride around the city, he showed me the Petronas Tower the same Worlds tallest building, but we could not go inside, we heard that there are only selected days to go inside the building up to the bridge, which joins the two buildings. It would be impossible, if one could not get shock after looking at the tower. It was just great the land Mark of the city. I saw the city was somewhat similar to Bangkok with many over bridges and clean roads. After enjoying with them almost for more than three hours I came back in the temple. There I met Mr. Chedilal Malaysian but Indian origin and was a Policeman. We spent time with Panditji and they all got to know a lot about me. I requested Mr. Chedilal to find a bicycle for me if possible. Because the next day onwards, I would start my visa work for Australia and to visit many other places. He was very kind and called up 2-3 places for the bicycle. At last he got one of his friend’s son’s bicycle. He took me with him on his Motto bike to get the bicycle. Bicycle was good and was unused for long time, so without troubling anyone I would do my work with the bicycle. I thanked Mr. Chedilal and at night I had dinner with Panditji. Temple priest was the youngest ever I saw during the expedition, he was younger to me even and was very talented. He was having latest technology and infrastructure with him in his room. He was very kind and friendly. His name was Mr. Tiwari, whenever he gets time after Aarti or prayer and other temple work, he works on the computer and study the latest technology. I would say he was the Pandit of 21st Century equipped with current technology.

12th Day

On 2nd day of Kuala Lumpur I visited Australian High commission to enquire about the formalities and format of sponsorship letter to gate from Australia WWF, as WWF Australia confirmed to help me because of Steven Drayton (WWF-International). Here the receptionist has provided the information and even asked for the kind of sponsorship letter they would require. I repeatedly asked to give me details of the letter, but they didn’t provide much detail, told me few points and said you would get visa. I surfed Internet and mailed to WWF-Australia and requested to fax it to the Australia High Commission in Kuala Lumpur. Later I visited Indian Embassy to get the reference letter for visa, as I used to get it in each country for getting visa. But as usual Indian people take too much time to do any kind of work. First I met the First Secretary and requested him for the letter, he asked his secretary to give the letter, but the secretary asked me to come in the evening at 4.30. Both the Embassy offices were very far from the temple and I was on bicycle, visiting all the places by enquiring addresses to the people. Few Indians always wants to make others wait, even if the work doesn’t take much time and everywhere I got the frustration. Still I waited and in the evening I got the letters for Indonesia and Australia High Commission. I came back in the temple, Mr. Chedilal was there we went to the market and bought a pair of Nike Shoe, it was the fourth pair during expedition. The previous shoe was damaged fully and it was just impossible to carry on with it. I would have replaced it in Hat Yai itself in Thailand but I repaired it and used till date. I helped Panditji for cooking, prepared Roti’s {Chapati’s}and had very good dinner. He was staying alone, he told me that his uncle brought him in Malaysia and because of Indian blood he could not spend much time in Malaysia, still he was there for around 15 years and he left Malaysia because he was wanted to do something for Indian people. I have seen few people could not stay away from their motherland.

13-14th Day

I was doubtful about Indonesia and the same thing happened next day when I contacted the officer of Indonesian Embassy, he raised few questions. The situation was similar, which I faced in Bangkok for Laos visa. There were same questions, I should have third country visa or return air ticket to India. So I moved to Australian High Commission, but it was all mess, WWF-Australia didn’t mailed me that they have sent the fax, when I surfed Internet before visiting Australian High Commission. I enquired about the fax but the receptionist, they didn’t know about the fax because it was sent in the counseling section. I submitted the application form without mentioning about the fax but when I went for the counseling the lady was having the fax with her. It was my first mistake, if WWF-Australia had sent a mail confirming about the fax, I would have written on the application form accordingly. For counseling there was a Chinese lady and asked me many question thinking as if Australia is her own property. She asked me, what do u have the proof that u would go back to India and would not stay in Australia. She asked me about the return air ticket and funding. The second mistake because of the stupid receptionists, when I enquired yesterday about the kind of sponsorship letter required, they didn’t tel me about the return ticket or funding to mention in the letter. One more and the third mistake was, I applied for Six months visa. I would have applied only for a month visa. The Chinese lady was very rude, I paid 154 $ visa fees, it was non refundable and she wanted me to come on 29th but I requested her to make it early so that I could move ahead. Then she made it 25th. I was worried so mailed the progress report to WWF-Australia and WWF-International. I was worried and tensed.

In WWF-Malaysia office I was interviewed by, “The Sun” and “The Star” News Paper Reporters with lots of photographs. In Kuala Lumpur I tried to visit Schools but even a single school didn’t allow me for the speech. WWF-Malaysia, education department was failed to do anything on the part of school permission. I traveled through Sky Train because WWF office was in Petaling Jaya and it was around 15 Km.

15-16th Day

On 24th whole day it was raining even I was not having any work that day so spent most of the time with Panditji.

On 25th when I went to Australian High Commission, I came back with the broken heart, Australia refused to give visa. The visa officer stated that I am not a genuine person and my purpose to visit Australia is different. I mailed the news to all WWF offices. I was very depressed and broken thinking I would not be able to complete the expedition. But at night when I surfed the net I found three mails from Steven from WWF-International. He wrote a very nice letter to Australian High Commission with request to reconsider the application. He was a great supporter of the Expedition, every time whenever I was in trouble he was the first and only to help me to come out. And that time also he was helping me a lot, he used to mail me almost thrice in a day. He was planning for the visa and trying how I could get it.

Even Mr. David who was in Vietnam but that time was working for Fiji and was the head of South East Asia. Steven has contacted him too and asked him to do something on his level. But it was not possible to get the visa even by Steven’s effort, he told me to move ahead and try in Singapore.

17-20th Day

There was my News in News Papers “The Sun” and after few days in “The Star” and even in “Tamil Nession”, a Tamil News Paper also. It was 29th April I moved to Malacca crossing small towns, Kajang, Seremban and Tampin in last three days and stayed in Gurudwara (Sikh temple). After enjoying very good time with the Panditji in the temple. I walked from Tampin and in the evening I tried to hitchhike, luckily I got Indian origin and who read about me in the News Paper. He was so happy and excited, he said, “I am very lucky, I am gifted for having you in my Car.” I couldn’t believe how much he was excited, he forced me to go with him at his house. I always believed on people because I was confident even if anything happens nothing will happen to me because God has gifted me such power that I could make out the difference between good and bad people. He took me to his house where he forced me to take bath at that time he said, “Do not scare I am a good man, would not heart you.” It was because there was nobody at his house. I took bath by that time he prepared fruit juice and served. Later he took me to his relative’s house and proudly introduced me to all family members. He used to say himself lucky because he got me on the way, he asked me to tell any four numbers (twice). I didn’t understand what he was trying to tell, then he said it’s lottery, he would buy the lottery of the same numbers, which I told him. His name was Mr. Chandru, later he took me to his friend’s place it was already 7 O’clock. I was carrying my rucksack with me in his car but so far he didn’t confirmed about the accommodation, as I told him that I would sleep in the Gurudwara but before it’s get dark I should speak to the Gyaniji (priest). Mr. Chandru’s friend Mr. Bala was very rich person, he took us for dinner and dropped in to the Gurudwara. They all were very happy and calling themselves lucky to have me with them. I thanked them all and requested Gyaniji (priest) to help for the accommodation. I got the open hall to sleep because the Gyaniji was not so kind to provide room, I requested him at least to keep the rucksack in his room. He was an old man we had a chat for long time before I go to sleep but still he didn’t cared and asked me to sleep in the hall.

21st Day

I spent an extra day in Malacca a historical city, the date was 1st of March, when I found, I am not getting permission in the school, I didn’t spend much time at other places just walked to cover the distance. But God has done the job of spreading my message all over the country. There was news in “The Star” News Paper that was Malaysia’s largest selling News Paper and distributed all over Malaysia. The news was very big, with lots of photographs and detailed information about the expedition as well as what people should do to save our mother earth. Very good coverage was given by that News Paper even while walking I found the difference. Previously means before the News appears in the News Paper, people used to neglect and might thought I am a sales man because I was Indian and many Malaysian Indian live very poor life. But after the News, people used to stop their vehicle, used to ask about me, many people used to watch with the curiosity as it was in all other countries. They used to show their hand. I used to encourage because of people’s behavior. I spent the day visiting few historical places. There is a Church “Gereja Christ”, built in 1753 by Portugal. Specialty of the Church is, it took 12 years to complete and the beams used are of wood. It is one of the oldest Churches. Next I saw Giant Portuguese Ship named “Flora De La Mar.”

Marine history of Malacca, during Seven Era’s the famous Malay Sultanate Era 1500-1511, The Portuguese Era 1511-1641, The Dutch Era 1641-1795, The British Era 1845-1957 and the Malaysia Independence Era 1957 to date. Herein lies in the Cargo hold the Invaluable treasures of the Nation taken away by the Colonial Masters, after they had conquered Malacca in 1511, but by the will of God, the Ship sank on January 26, 1512 in the straits of Malacca on her voyage to Europe.

More is known of Malaysian history from about the 1300's. Temasek (now Singapore) enjoyed a period of fame and prosperity. But the beginning of Malaysian history is considered the era of the Sultanate of Melaka (sometimes also spelt Malacca) founded in the late 1300's. Its rise coincided with the more rapid spread of Islam in the region. The main legacy of Melaka was a combination of Islam and political tradition (called adat in Malay).

Melaka's royal family claimed descent from Alexander the Great. All subsequent Malay rulers made the same claim.

Malay society inherited from Melaka a distinct tradition. Only the royal lineage had the right to rule. But it could confer that right on a person of nonroyal descent in order to raise him to the rank of royalty. All authority was in the hands of the raja (ruler or monarch). An area with this form of royal rule is a ke-raja-an.

During the 1400's, Melaka was a market place which drew traders from all parts of Asia and, by the early 1500's, from Portugal as well. Trade by sea continued to form the basis of the Malay economy until the 1700's. In general, Malay ke-raja-an were located on the estuaries of important rivers.

In the evening I could meet the president and when he came to know abut me, he shouted on Gyaniji for not allowing me to stay in the room because he read my news in The Star, News Paper. The kind president opened a very good room for me. Most of the times after continuous walk for 3-4 days, I used to get etching in between both the thighs. Once I get the separate room it used to be more convenient to use the medicinal cream.

22-24th Day

Wherever I got rest for a day the next day walk used to be better and fresh. It’s because of that I used to take an extra day stoppage every after two or three days continuous walk. On Second of March I left Malacca and walked to Muar, Batu Pahat and reached Pontian Kechil on 4th March. I was thinking of going ahead on 5th but I was very tired and was not feeling well, my legs were paining a lot. More over sometimes I used to get depression because of not getting visa and there was no enjoyment and satisfaction because school does not permit for the talk. The walk was boring.

I spent a day in Pontian Kechil and on 6th I moved to Johor Bahru but the bitter experiences continued. The last day during walk, I might have covered just 7-8 Km from Pontian Kechil and was sitting under a tree. A young person stopped suddenly who was on a bicycle. He knew little English he enquired where I want to go. As I wrote, God has given me such a power, I could guess who is bad and good. At first instant only I didn’t liked him and avoid talking behaved as if I didn’t understand what he wants to ask. He asked again, but this time I confused him first I said, “Johor Bahru” because he was going towards Pontian Kechil the opposite side. He said, “Wait here I would get my car and would drop you.” I understood he was not at all good person, Johor Bahru was around 60 Km and why he would help me, get the car and drop at Johor Bahru. I confused him I said, “I am coming from Johor Bahru and would go to Pontian Kechil.” I was little scared and because of him I could not dare to take risk of moving towards Johor Bahru because once Malay persons have beaten me and I was scared to go against them. More over I told him I would go to Pontian Kechil second time. But he still asked me to wait and said, he would get the car and would drop me at Pontian Kechil. I tried my level best to get rid of him but he was not leaving me at all. At last I said Ok, he went on his bicycle to get the car. I was so scared and searched for any vehicle. That time I was desperate because it was a lonely place and no houses at least for 4-5 Km back towards Pontian Kechil, once I stood in between the road to stop the vehicle but the vehicle didn’t stopped and shouted so I moved away it happened thrice but no one stopped. I thought if bus could come so that I could move by bus. But there was no sign. I thought might be because of the rucksack people are afraid so I kept my rucksack and when another car came I stood again in between the road and shouted please…. Stop, Please stop. The car was of Tamil (Malaysian Indian) he stopped, first he shouted in Malay language but when I explained him the story and about the expedition he said do not worry I would drop u to Johor Bahru. I got relief and was very happy to come out from the danger. At the same time I was laughing on the stupid person, he might have come by his car on that spot and would have searched me, as if I would wait for him. I spoke to him very nicely, that he left hurriedly to get the car. The kind people dropped me at Johor Bahru the name of the driver and owner of the car was Aravindhakishan. I went to Gurudwara and got the place, here Gyaniji was nice.

Next day I spent knowing about Singapore and

ABOUT Malaysia

Malaysia consists of two regions about 650 kilometres apart, which are separated by the South China Sea. The regions are Peninsular (formerly West) Malaysia, and Sarawak and Sabah (formerly East Malaysia), on the northern part of the island of Borneo. Peninsular Malaysia borders on the north with Thailand.

The nation of Malaysia was formed in 1963, when Malaya, Sarawak, Sabah, and Singapore united. Malaya was an independent nation that occupied what is now Peninsular Malaysia. Sarawak and Sabah were separate colonies of the United Kingdom (UK) that covered what is now the Malaysian region of Sarawak and Sabah. Singapore was a UK colony, south of Malaya. Singapore withdrew from Malaysia in 1965.

The most important factor in Malaysia's history has been its geographical position. The Malay Peninsula separates the Indian Ocean from the South China Sea. In ancient times, the peninsula was a convenient landing point for Indian and Chinese traders. The northeast monsoon (wind), which lasts from December to March, brought sailing ships from India to the Malay Peninsula. They waited there for the southwest monsoon, which lasts from June to October, to continue their voyages to China.

Merchants and adventurers from many lands were attracted to the rich trading centres of Malaya. The Indians had a lasting influence on the art and culture of the Malayan people. The Arabs introduced Islam, Malaysia's national religion, to the area. The Portuguese and Dutch introduced European economic ideas and methods, and the British laid the foundation for Malaysia's political development.

Malaysia is one of the most pleasant, hassle-free countries to visit in South-East Asia. Several decades of sustained economic growth and political stability have made it one of the most buoyant and wealthy countries in the region. Although political power (Malay) and economic clout (Chinese) are still traditionally divided along racial lines, Malaysia has moved towards a pluralist culture based on a vibrant and interesting fusion of Malay, Chinese, Indian and indigenous cultures and customs.

Most visitors to Malaysia stick to the Peninsula, where the insane headlong rush of Kuala Lumpur is offset by the colonially soothing Cameron Highlands Hill Station or the hedonistic torpor of Langkawi. Far fewer make it to Sarawak or Sabah, on the island of East Malaysia, with their spectacular wildlife, longhouses and the awe-inspiring Mt Kinabalu.

Population of Malaysia is around 24 Million. The Chinese comprise about a third of the population. They are largely responsible for the political fortunes of the country. They are Buddhists and Taoists, speak Hokkein, Hakka and Cantonese, and are dominant in the business community. The Indians account for about 10% of the population. They are mainly, Hindu Tamils from southern India. They speak Tamil, Malayalam, and few speak Hindi too. They live mainly in the larger towns on the west coast of the peninsula. There is also a sizeable Sikh community. Eurasians and indigenous tribes make up the remaining population. The Currency of Malaysia is Ringgit (1US$=4) and Malaysian Flag is with a yellow crescent and star lie on a blue background in the upper left corner. The crescent represents Islam. The star's 14 points and the flag's 14 red and white stripes symbolize Malaysia's 14 original states.

Despite Bahasa Malaysia being the official language, when members of these different communities talk to each other, they generally speak English, which was recently reinstated as the language of instruction in higher education. The main indigenous tribe is the Iban of Sarawak, who number 395,000. They are largely longhouse dwellers and live along the Rejang and Baram rivers. The Bidayuh (107,000) are concentrated on Sarawak's Skrang River. The Orang Asli (80,000) live in small scattered groups in Peninsular Malaysia. Traditionally nomadic agriculturalists, many have been absorbed into modern Malaysia.

Malaysian music is heavily influenced by Chinese and Islamic forms. The music is based largely around the endang (drum), but includes percussion instruments (some made of shells), flutes, trumpets and gongs. The country has a strong tradition of dance and dance dramas, some of Thai, Indian and Portuguese origin. Other artistic forms include ayang kulit (shadow-puppets), ilat (a stylised martial art) and crafts such as batik, weaving and silver and brasswork.

Traditional costumes are not often worn in the towns and cities. The men tend to wear Western shirts and trousers outside their homes, adding ties and coats for official functions. Bushjackets are also worn, mostly by government officials. For casual wear, Western styles are preferred, particularly by young people.

Few Chinese women wear the cheongsam, a traditional highcollared, tightly fitting dress with slits at the sides. Older women prefer the more comfortable samfoo, which consists of a jacket and trousers. Many Indian women like to wear saris.

At home, many Malay men still relax in sarongs. A sarong is a length of cloth, the two sides of which are sewn together to form a very loose sheath. A man wears it wrapped around his body and secured by a double-fold at the waist. It reaches to his ankles. He may wear a shirt or a singlet with it or he may prefer to go around with a bare chest. In rural areas on hot days, some older women sit around their homes wearing sarongs tied just under their arms. Younger women wear sarongs in this way only when they bathe at the river or well.

Most Malaysian men reserve traditional dress for religious or ceremonial occasions. Many women wear their various traditional costumes very often, and some every day. Quite a number of women experiment with modified versions of dress that embody traditional designs from other local and foreign cultures.

Malay traditional dress for men consists of a baju, a roundnecked or highcollared longsleeved shirt. They also wear seluar (trousers) with a sarong wrapped smartly around the waist and hips, and a black songkok (boat-shaped velvet cap) or a tanjak (elegant cloth headdress) for special occasions. Some Malay men wear sarongs to the mosque, and instead of songkoks they may wear ketayaps (white skull caps) for such occasions. Many men who have been on a pilgrimage to Mecca wear serban haji (pilgrims' turbans). A number of Muslim men of all races wear robes and turbans.

For Malay women, the traditional costumes most widely worn are the sarong, the baju kurung, and the baju kebaya. The baju kurung is like the baju for men. It is tied with gathers on one side, and the outfit is completed with a selendang (shawl) or tudung (scarf) around the shoulders or on the head. Some Malay women who have gone on a pilgrimage to Mecca wear special headdresses similar to those worn by male counterparts.

It's not easy to find authentic Malay food in Malaysian restaurants, though you can take your pick of Chinese, Nyonya (a local variation on Chinese and Malay food - Chinese ingredients, local spices), Indian, Indonesian or (sometimes) Western cuisines. Satays (meat kebabs in spicy peanut sauce) are a Malaysian creation and they're found everywhere. Other dishes include fried soybean curd in peanut sauce, sour tamarind fish curry, fiery curry prawns and spiced curried meat in coconut marinade. Muslim Indian dishes have developed a distinctly Malaysian style. The variety of wonderful tropical fruits and fruit juices available is huge, and strange sweet concoctions include endol (sugar syrup, coconut milk and green noodles) and is kacang (beans and jellies topped with shaved ice, syrups and condensed milk).

Malay cooking varies from state to state but the main dish is rice, usually boiled and eaten with vegetables, fish or other seafood, chicken, or meat. Pork is forbidden by Islam, the religion of most Malays. Chillies, coconut milk, onions, spices, and tamarind are frequently used in Malay cooking. Popular dishes from different states include the asam pedas (fish with hot chillies and sourish gravy) of Johor and the ayam percik (chicken in thick coconut-milk gravy) of Kelantan. One Malay appetizer is ulam--shoots, leaves, or fruit dipped in or eaten with sambal (pounded chillies and shrimp paste).

Rice, after being boiled, is often fried with chillies, onions, and ikan bilis (anchovies) to make nasi goreng (fried rice). Other variations on plain boiled rice include nasi lemak (boiled rice in coconut milk and eaten with sambil tunis, a preparation of chillies, anchovies, and coconut milk); nasi ulam (rice mixed with herbs and salted fish); and nasi dagang (rice mixed with thick gravy and fish) of Terengganu. Rice is sometimes boiled in small cases woven out of coconut-leaves to make ketupat. This is eaten with rendang (beef or chicken cooked over a slow fire in coconut milk, with chillies and certain condiments until the gravy thickens and dries into a delicious coating), or at any time with satay (small pieces of chicken or meat skewered on bamboo sticks and baked over a charcoal fire). Satay is coated with thick peanut gravy. Many Malays like satay dipped in chilli sauce.

Environment

Malaysia is divided into two distinct parts: Peninsular Malaysia and the East Malaysian provinces of Sabah and Sarawak in North Borneo. The two regions are 650km (403mi) apart, separated by the South China Sea. Peninsular Malaysia shares borders with Thailand and Singapore. Sabah and Sarawak border Kalimantan (the Indonesian part of Borneo) and Sarawak surrounds the tiny enclave of Brunei. The Andaman Sea is on the West Coast of the peninsula. The east coast of the peninsula, Sabah, and Sarawak all adjoin the South China Sea.

Peninsular Malaysia accounts for 40 percent of the country's landmass. Several mountain ranges run north-south along the spine of the peninsula. There is a wide, fertile plain on the West Coast, and a narrow coastal plain on the east. Sabah and Sarawak are covered by dense jungles and have large river systems. Mt Kinabalu (4101m/13,450ft) in Sabah is one of the highest peaks in South-East Asia.

Malaysia is hot and humid all year. Temperatures are usually between 20-30°C (68-86°F); humidity is usually 90 per cent. The region has a monsoonal climate, but only the East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia has a real rainy season. The wettest season on the West Coast of the peninsula is between September and December; on the east coast and in Sabah and Sarawak it's between October and February. Rain, when it comes, generally interrupts the sunshine only briefly; most of it falls in short, strong bursts.

The equatorial climate of Malaysia supports a rich plant and animal life. The forests range from casuarina trees to mountain oaks and moss. The tropical rainforests cover a large part of the uplands. They have evolved over the past 130 million years and represent the oldest and richest forests, and the most complex and diverse ecosystems in the world. They contain over 6,000 species of trees and more than 9,000 species of other plants. The tropical rainforests also contain 8,000 species of flowering plants and 200 species of mammals.

Some of these species are unique and rare. The rafflesia produces one of the biggest flowers in the world. It is a parasite without stem, root, or leaf and grows in the forests of Sabah, Perak, and Pahang. The plant life also includes a variety of the common Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, the national flower of Malaysia. The rainforests contain trees of the dipterocarp family, some of which measure 60 metres high, and also a large variety of bamboos, creepers, ferns, orchids, palms, and vines. The government has reserved 12 million hectares as the permanent forest estate of the country. Of this area, 3.8 million hectares are protected virgin forests.

Laws protect many forms of wildlife. Among the most famous protected species are the orangutan in Sabah, the rhinoceros, the tiger, the leopard, the clouded leopard, the leopard cat, the flat-headed cat, the marbled cat, the golden cat, and the bay cat. Seven of these live in Peninsular Malaysia, and five in Sarawak and Sabah. Protected birds include 18 species of pheasant and several species of hornbill. East Malaysia has one of the most abundant and varied bird populations in the world.

More than 60 per cent of the country is still rainforest, but a government plan to build a huge hydroelectric dam in Sarawak is expected to decimate the forest, which does not augur well for the future.

The largest national park is Taman Negara which covers 4,300 square kilometres. Established in 1939, it was the first in Malaysia. This park lies in the mountainous and forested border area of Pahang, Kelantan, and Terengganu.

Sarawak has seven parks covering 830 square kilometres, and three wildlife sanctuaries covering 1,700 square kilometres. Gunong Mulu National Park has the largest cave passage (Deer Cave), the world's largest natural chamber (Sarawak Chamber), and the longest cave in Southeast Asia (Clearwater Cave). The Niah Caves National Park is famous for its prehistoric relics. The Bako National Park, near Kuching, is the first and oldest national park in Sarawak.

Sabah has six national parks. The Kinabalu National Park is famous for its granite massif (upland plateau) which forms Mount Kinabalu, the highest peak in Southeast Asia. This park is rich in plant life, with over 1,000 species of orchids, 27 species of rhododendrons, nine species of Nepenthes (pitcher plants), 450 species of ferns, as well as rafflesia. Pulau Tiga National Park consists of three small islands of mud volcanoes in Kimanis Bay off the Klias Peninsula. It has clear water for viewing coral reefs. Tunku Abdul Rahman Park (consisting of the islands of Gaya, Sapi, Mamutik, Manukan, and Sulug off Kota Kinabalu) contains some of the most diverse coral reefs and marine life in the world. Turtle Islands Park consists of the small islands of Gulisan, Selingaan, and Bakungan Kecil. It is the breeding ground of green and hawksbill turtles, which come up the beach to lay eggs.

SINGAPORE

1st Day

It was 8th of March 2000; I got up early morning, did exercise and moved on the way to Singapore. I was really very excited; I used to feel great on myself for travelling Eleven Countries. Yes Singapore was the 11th country of the expedition. I was very angsious to see Singapore, since childhood I was listening the stories of Singapore. Singapore is linked by a 1056 metre Causeway that was not very far but when I was approaching to the Causeway, I found thousands of people were going in the same direction. With in ten minutes walk, I reached to the Malaysian immigration and got the stamp. I walked for more half an hour to reach the Singapore Immigration. I was really shocked and surprised to see thousands of Motto Bikes and two people were seating on almost each Bike, hundreds of Cars, Trucks and Buses. I was in the immigration building so I got the much better view from the top. I heard that it is Asia’s number one busiest check post. It was really first time in my life, I have seen such traffic and so many vehicles. Every day people go for work in Singapore and stay in Johor Baharu in Malaysia. I understood, as living cost in Singapore is very high compare to Malaysia or Johor Baharu.

At last at around 7.30, I got the stamp to enter in Singapore. There I was expecting big buildings and some thing different from all previous country. But there was no difference, the roads were similar to Malaysian roads, there were highways too, same like in Malaysia. When I started walk, I got problems with the roads. I knew my destination it was Little India in Lakshmi Narayan Temple. (Panditji of Lakshmi Narayan Temple of Kuala Lumpur, Pt. Durgeshwar Tiwari, spoke and explained about me to the Panditji of Singapore Temple.) So I enquired the way to go to Little India, to a stupid person who was scared first and directed me to wrong way. I had to walk back for two Km. extra. Here it was lonely place and no people around whom you can ask. Even after coming on the right path, I had problems always to choose the road at the square or at the diversion. It was very difficult, not even a single vehicle used to stop to guide me. At last, at a signal I asked a Motto Bike person, he suggested me to walk on the highway, where I will not face problem with the roads and will be very easy to walk, one straight way. I faced the same problem as it was in Malaysia once while walking on the Highway, as the highway in Singapore also through forest and you won’t get people or hotels even. I walked almost 20 Km. and was feeling thirsty. Luckily I found a Police Service Centre besides the Highway, first sign of habitant after long time. I entered and requested for the water, but the officer shouted on me. One of the Indian officers asked me and told that it was restricted area but when I explained him, he welcomed and took me to the canteen. It was afternoon time I was hungry too. I enquired if I can have lunch in the canteen. The officer replied positively and asked the canteen owner to serve me lunch. Off course I paid for it. Now I was full and fresh to walk. It was around 12.30 noon and was not far from the destination, Little India. Just after half an hour walk I got old road, means habitant place. Here even enquiring was a very big problem, people used to get scared, because of my dirty cloths and rucksack. But still anyhow I reached Lakshmi Narayan Temple at 2.15 p.m. But one thing I noticed that since I entered Singapore, I have not seen any sign of that Singapore, which was in my mind. It was as same as Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur. (But later, after spending few days, I found the difference and found the same Singapore, which I was having in my mind.)

When I reached in the Temple, I could not see Chief Panditji he was out for Puja. I sat down in the prayer hall and waited for him. In the hall, I saw few Tamil persons were decorating a small Mandap, I came to know that there was marriage of a North Indian family, in the temple in the evening. Around 4 O’clock, Chief Panditji came, I introduced myself with the reference of talk with Kuala Lumpur Panditji. As usual, he was also very kind like all previous Panditji. He didn’t asked me many questions because of marriage ceremony, he was busy but told me to keep the rucksack upstairs and will provide the guest room after the marriage ceremony gets over. I kept the rucksack and took bath. At around 5 O’clock I moved out of the temple, just to take a closer look of Little India. It was really a little India, almost 99% of people staying in that area, were Indian origin. Everything was same, if people would have been talking in Hindi, no one could think that they are in any foreign country like Singapore. I have seen a shrine and 2-3 Tamil Temples. After just ten minutes walk, I found a very big Shopping Centre call ‘Mustafa Shopping Centre’. It was really very-very big Shopping Centre, you will get anything you want. I have not seen this kind of Shopping Centre even in Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur, which are the most advanced cities that I visited. It was not the time for the tourist but still there was rush and I saw many peoples buying things. I met two Indian families, from Mumbai, the nearest known city of my hometown in the same province or state. I was really very happy to see them and talk to them in Marathi, the local language of the province. But I found that I was not at all fluent in Marathi (It was almost more than a year that I was not in touch with Marathi.) and spoke with them mostly in English.

After spending almost two hours in the Shopping Centre I came back in the Temple. The Marriage preparation was still going on. After some time Barat (Groom comes at the marriage place, is called as Barat. In India, groom comes on Horse, where friends and relatives dance in front of the Horse, but) came in a car (instead of Horse). What it was? There was no change at all. The way, we see marriages in India, same way I have seen in Singapore too. Lot of boys and girls were dancing, there was a group of Punjabi persons and were in the traditional dress with all the musical instruments of Bhangra dance. (Punjab is a province in India and the local traditional dance is known as Bhangra.) Later Panditji started his program and marriage ceremony completed at around 10.30 at night. I could present just a bouquet to the newly married couple; all people had dinner, at the time when the marriage ceremony was going on. The food was also same that you get to eat in Indian Marriages. I was really surprised to see all that; Indians staying in abroad do follow the Indian culture and tradition.

2nd Day

In Singapore, I was little depressed because Australia refused to give visa. I was always in touch with WWF-International, with Mr. Steven Drayton. We were trying various options and trying to get all kind of support from South East Asia’s WWF office as well as WWF-Australia. So we planed first to get the visa for Indonesia and then try visa for Australia from Jakarta, Indonesia. Mean time Mr. Steven Drayton was able to get hold of one of the staff from WWF-Indonesia. I got a mail from Mr. Atun stating WWF-Indonesia would help me. So I mailed the similar letter (On what basis I used to get the visa) and asked to fax to the office of the Indonesian Embassy here in Singapore. I was in touch with one of the Rotary Club member in Singapore. He was the best friend of the Rotarian from Bangkok and he mailed

3rd Day

On the Third day I visited Indonesia Embassy and enuired, after explaining about the expedition

About Singapore

Singapore is a small island country has an area of 639.1 square kilometres. It consists of a large island and more than 54 smaller islands. The large island, which is also called Singapore, covers an area of 573 square kilometres. It is 42 kilometres long and 23 kilometres across at its widest point. About half of the smaller islands of Singapore are uninhabited. Some of the islands have been developed for recreation and tourism.

Singapore is a crowded and bustling centre of manufacturing, trade, and finance. The main business and administrative section of the city is on the main island. There are many modern buildings, which tower above the warehouses and docks of the port. Singapore is Southeast Asia's main port, and the busiest port in the world in terms of shipping tonnage. Singapore is one of the most prosperous countries in Asia. Its people enjoy high standards of health, education, housing, transportation, and telecommunications.

Singapore has about 55,000 people in its army, navy, and air force. A further 200,000 people serve as reserves. Men aged 18 and over must serve from 2 to 21/2 years in the armed forces.

Singapore is one of the world's most densely populated countries. The total population is around 4 Million. At the end of the 1980's, the population was growing at 1.9 per cent a year. In the 1940's and 1950's, the birth rate was over 4 per cent a year, one of the highest in the world. A birth control campaign begun in the 1960's was so effective that the birth rate fell below replacement level. The government now encourages families to have more than two children if they can afford it. People below 15 years of age formed 23 per cent of the population by 1990.

Most of Singapore's people are the descendants of migrants who came from China, Malaysia, Indonesia, and India in the 1800's and early 1900's. More than 75 per cent of the population are Chinese. Malays make up about 15 per cent, and Indians 7 per cent. The rest are mainly Eurasian. There are four official languages: English, Chinese (Mandarin), Malay, and Tamil. Malay is the national language. English is the language used in government and the main language used in schools and colleges. Newspapers, and radio and television broadcasts, are in each of the four official languages.

Singapore has no official religion. The country's constitution guarantees freedom of religion. The main religions practised are Islam, mainly by Malays; Buddhism and Taoism, mainly by Chinese; Hinduism and Sikhism, mainly by Indians; and Christianity, mainly by Chinese, Indians, and Eurasians. Festivals of each religious group are observed as public holidays.

Restaurants in Singapore offer a variety of Chinese, Indian, and Malay dishes. Western foods are also available, including American-style fast foods. The larger hotels and restaurants also serve a variety of international foods including Mexican, Thai, and Vietnamese.

Art, music, and theatre reflect the cultures of the various groups. Cultural events include Chinese operas, Indian dancing, and Malay dramas. Performances by the Singapore Symphony Orchestra are also popular. A festival of arts staged every two years attracts international groups and artists to Singapore. Singapore flag is with two horizontal stripes, red on top (for equality and brotherhood) and white below (for purity and virtue). A white crescent and five white stars (for democracy, peace, progress, justice, and equality) lie in the upper left corner. Singapore Currency is Singapore Dollar (1US$ = 1.70)

ENVIRONMENT

Singapore consists of the main, low-lying Singapore Island and 58 smaller islands within its territorial waters. Urban areas comprise almost 50% of the land area, while parkland, reservoirs, plantations and open military areas occupy 40%. Singapore Island measures approximately 42km (26mi) east to west and 23km (14mi) north to south at its widest points. While there are built-up, high-density areas all around the island, the main city area is in the south, built on the shores of the Singapore River. The Central Business District (CBD) is at the southern shore of the river's mouth. Chinatown adjoins the CBD to the southwest. To the north of the Singapore River is the colonial district, which has many reminders of British rule. Further north again is Little India and Arab St. Orchard Rd runs northwest from the colonial district.

To the west of the island is Jurong, an industrial area with a sprinkling of tourist attractions. The east coast has some of the older residential areas, a major beach park and the international airport. The northeast is the location of huge housing developments and the central north of the island has most of Singapore's undeveloped land and remaining forest. A 1km (0.6mi) causeway connects Singapore with Johor Bahru in Malaysia; a second causeway has opened on the west of the island to relieve congestion. Under current plans, land reclamation and housing developments should dramatically alter Singapore's geography.

Singapore is one giant sauna. It's hot and humid year-round, with the temperature almost never dropping below 20°C (68°F), even at night, and usually climbing to 30°C (86°F) during the day. Humidity is high, hovering around the 75% mark. Singapore is wettest from November to January and at its driest from May to July - the difference between the two, however, is slight. And due to Singapore's proximity to the equator, it receives a steady diet of sunshine all year.

But WWF team and Steven Drayton did not stopped trying their possibilities to make my journey complete. List of Medicines

Tube- Insect Repellent Cream,

Chlorine Tablet- water

Ounce of Potassium Permaganate (against snake bite)

Dozens of pain killer tablets

Dozens of multi-vitamine tablets

Electrol and glucose packets- weakness

INCIDENTIALS

One Note Book

Map Book and Maps

Passport

A torch

A match Box and a lighter

File (containing-important documents with News

Paper cuttings, for evidences to show genuinity)

Camera and Photo albums (of walking as well as talking with the students)

WWF membership cards, Posters and stickers (to distribute in the schools),

Cloths Carried at the start A woolen sweater, Wind cheater, pair of woolen socks, A cap, Three WWF T-shirts, Three other T-shirts, One jeans pant, two track pants, one office wear shirt-pant, Sleeping Bag, Sleeping Mat,

Change of Clothes on the way Woolen Sweater, Wind cheater, Sleeping Bag- after two months of the journey Office wear shirt-pant, That was the biggest change I did, later I had to change many T-shirts and shorts

Toilet Articles Bar of Soap- face-cloth Hand towel/ towel tooth brush, tooth paste, shaving kit